Don’t be too humble about your video presentation. You did this whole video in one take and managed to grasp my attention every second. And….. without a doubt, I’d take my most cherished guitar to you.
Nice Mark ! I know personally, that the video capture can't get in the way of you doing a great job. This is why I am the "dis-embodied voice" when I do my videos; leaving the camera pointed directly at the task at hand. Delighted to see a journeyman Tech sharing their approach. Bravo !
another great and informative video, MS-00 (i'm a big fan of your namesake over at IRIS).;) man, your home shop is immaculate and so well organized! love it-makes for efficiency and a calm mind, i'll bet .. .
Thank you for this awesome video! Your process of making sure the guitar was warmed prior to gluing is very helpful, and your specifically- radiused FB extension cauls are an excellent idea!! Your advice about hidden fretboard extension cracks is important too-- it's always good to keep in mind that you might find a surprise when you take the neck off!
Thank you Mark! And by the way, no worries, that entire video was exciting to me! I’ve always wondered how it’s done. I love watching this. Thanks again Mark, and don’t ever think this is not exciting for us Vintage Guitar Geeks! That was just spectacular :-)
Excellent video, down to earth, clear and concise, wish Mark lived around the corner from us. Also one of the nicest people to deal with when buying a guitar, still have the stunning '47' L5 that Mark sold me many years ago.
Love to see one done where you go through the decision process/procedure of shimming the fretboard extension. Great job and very clear explanation (as always!).
I heated the rosewood bridge of my 42’ LOO(I know ....crazy for my first time) in a toaster oven and a placed a heated aluminum block on the surface area where the bridge was to be adhered. Gave me the hide glue time I needed to get it back together. Slicker than snot!
It is always a pleasure to watch you work Mark. Do you always remove the frets of the extension to unglue/re glue clamp it, or was this in prep for sanding out the body join fingerboard hump/or full refret?- I have so many nerdy questions :)
Much less on a 12 fret than on a 14 fret. It's up to the client. On store-owned guitars that get wedges (less and less all the time as vintage guitar owner preferences shift away from wedges) I'll often wedge 1/2 the amount it actually needs as a thick ended wedge looks weird.
I watch these videos and love them. Its probably the same reason I watch Bob Ross. Interesting and calming. Well and I like guitars. But no interest in being a luthier! Well maybe a little interest. Nice job. Love your shop.
I've got a D-18 kit that'll be here this week. I'll be sure to use wet water for glue clean-up. Amazon probably has some. What's the logic of refretting the neck after installation rather than prior to?
Wet water is way more effective than dry water. Refretting after the neck is glued on allows you to true to fretboard accurately as there's always some amount of a bump that remains at the body joint. You can also tweak your neck angle slightly during refretting if required.
The neck removal process is something that requires all of one's focus. I can't risk damaging a guitar because I was distracted by cameras and filming. That, and it's a scary thing to watch!!
I have a question... so after gluing the neck back on, do you have to refinish the guitar in that area? Or do the separation lines not show? I imagine sometimes removing the neck might cause some tear-out of the wood or finish?
Good question, Scott. If the neck and/or finish was to become damaged upon removal repair and finish work would become necessary. An experienced and careful technician should be able to avoid such a fate.
These days the general preference is to leave the shim off. On a 12 fret neck I’ll use a shim, but it will just be a 1/2 thickness one. Shimming a 14 fret one is a decision I leave to the client usually.
Enjoyed the film of the neck..I have a 47.d.28 and hate the neck...its way to fat and plays awkward....I like the thin necks with the newer martin designs..any sugestion.like having a custom neck made .rj
Many reasons. Hide glue is very easy to take apart, can be reactivated with water and heat, and creates a crystal-hard joint. It's also the glue that was used on Martins until 1964 and is historically accurate in restoration work. Finally, it's really nice to work with and sets up much faster than PVA glues.
Don’t be too humble about your video presentation. You did this whole video in one take and managed to grasp my attention every second. And….. without a doubt, I’d take my most cherished guitar to you.
Right on! Thanks!
Nice Mark ! I know personally, that the video capture can't get in the way of you doing a great job. This is why I am the "dis-embodied voice" when I do my videos; leaving the camera pointed directly at the task at hand. Delighted to see a journeyman Tech sharing their approach. Bravo !
Thanks!
The magician. Mark's eye for detail is second to none!!!!!!
another great and informative video, MS-00 (i'm a big fan of your namesake over at IRIS).;) man, your home shop is immaculate and so well organized! love it-makes for efficiency and a calm mind, i'll bet .. .
Thank you for this awesome video! Your process of making sure the guitar was warmed prior to gluing is very helpful, and your specifically- radiused FB extension cauls are an excellent idea!!
Your advice about hidden fretboard extension cracks is important too-- it's always good to keep in mind that you might find a surprise when you take the neck off!
I've never seen a more professional neck reset.
thank you!
Great stuff, I wish you would have captured the entire process (removal, cleanup, shims, etc.) before the reset.
Watching a pro at work who truly LOVES what he does. Simply wonderful.
Yes, wonderful. Keep’em coming Mark.
Great comment
And a genuinely good guy, too. The whole staff there is amazing.
Brilliant work... 🌻
Thank you Mark! And by the way, no worries, that entire video was exciting to me! I’ve always wondered how it’s done. I love watching this. Thanks again Mark, and don’t ever think this is not exciting for us Vintage Guitar Geeks! That was just spectacular :-)
Excellent video, down to earth, clear and concise, wish Mark lived around the corner from us. Also one of the nicest people to deal with when buying a guitar, still have the stunning '47' L5 that Mark sold me many years ago.
We missed you....
Love to see one done where you go through the decision process/procedure of shimming the fretboard extension. Great job and very clear explanation (as always!).
I heated the rosewood bridge of my 42’ LOO(I know ....crazy for my first time) in a toaster oven and a placed a heated aluminum block on the surface area where the bridge was to be adhered. Gave me the hide glue time I needed to get it back together. Slicker than snot!
Very Nice ,hope you can do a follow up video would love to hear how it sounds
I just discovered your channel. It’s awesome. Love it! 👍🏻
Damn! What you do is art. Much respect to you
Excellent video. Always have been curious as to this process. Very well explained. Thanks a million!
Very good Mark! Have not seen that process before.
Thank you for sharing this. Love seeing your work on acoustics
Nice job ! Thanks for video ! 🖖
Good vid👍🏻
Do some more
That was great to watch! Thanks neighbour!
Thanks for making this video,nicely done very informative.
You're welcome! Thanks for the feedback!
Great stuff Mark.
Wonderful video... thank you. I’ve lost my fear of the dreaded ‘Neck Reset’.
So good Mark. More of this!
This was brilliant, thanks for the knowledge!
It is always a pleasure to watch you work Mark. Do you always remove the frets of the extension to unglue/re glue clamp it, or was this in prep for sanding out the body join fingerboard hump/or full refret?- I have so many nerdy questions :)
If the guitar is to be refretted I remove all the extension frets before heating to help avoid finish damage from the heat transfer of the fret-wire.
Thx so much for sharing your work with us!
Thanks...lots of good info!
Very informative! Thanks for sharing this video.
Thank you.
Thanks Mark- How much fall away over the body do you allow (think is ok) before you start thinking about adding a tapered wedge???
Thanks again.
Much less on a 12 fret than on a 14 fret. It's up to the client. On store-owned guitars that get wedges (less and less all the time as vintage guitar owner preferences shift away from wedges) I'll often wedge 1/2 the amount it actually needs as a thick ended wedge looks weird.
Great video!
nice work Mark, 5 stars!!!! top
I watch these videos and love them. Its probably the same reason I watch Bob Ross. Interesting and calming. Well and I like guitars. But no interest in being a luthier! Well maybe a little interest. Nice job. Love your shop.
You don't watch Ted Woodford's channel?
I've got a D-18 kit that'll be here this week. I'll be sure to use wet water for glue clean-up. Amazon probably has some.
What's the logic of refretting the neck after installation rather than prior to?
Wet water is way more effective than dry water.
Refretting after the neck is glued on allows you to true to fretboard accurately as there's always some amount of a bump that remains at the body joint. You can also tweak your neck angle slightly during refretting if required.
@@TheFolkwayMusic Thank you. Although I’ve done a dozen guitars and basses, this is my first acoustic and I’m anxious to not screw it up.
Fish glue? Rabbit? Do they behave differently!
Love your videos.
Mark, thank you for a very informative video. Do you happen to have one for the neck removal? Thanks again!
The neck removal process is something that requires all of one's focus. I can't risk damaging a guitar because I was distracted by cameras and filming. That, and it's a scary thing to watch!!
Nice, thank-you
I have a question... so after gluing the neck back on, do you have to refinish the guitar in that area? Or do the separation lines not show? I imagine sometimes removing the neck might cause some tear-out of the wood or finish?
Good question, Scott. If the neck and/or finish was to become damaged upon removal repair and finish work would become necessary. An experienced and careful technician should be able to avoid such a fate.
Do you normally make an ebony shim for the end of the fingerboard or do you just let it dive down?
These days the general preference is to leave the shim off. On a 12 fret neck I’ll use a shim, but it will just be a 1/2 thickness one.
Shimming a 14 fret one is a decision I leave to the client usually.
Did I miss something or did you not glue the dovetail joint.
You did! Glue is required!
Enjoyed the film of the neck..I have a 47.d.28 and hate the neck...its way to fat and plays awkward....I like the thin necks with the newer martin designs..any sugestion.like having a custom neck made .rj
You can do that, sure, but perhaps just finding a different guitar that you can leave unmodified would be a better solution.
Just wondering, why are you do not use tight bond glue like so many other luthiers do you?
Many reasons. Hide glue is very easy to take apart, can be reactivated with water and heat, and creates a crystal-hard joint. It's also the glue that was used on Martins until 1964 and is historically accurate in restoration work. Finally, it's really nice to work with and sets up much faster than PVA glues.
Interesting .... you don’t put hide glue on both surfaces, just on the dovetail on the neck and not the body ?
Correct. There's no need to apply glue to both surfaces.
It's hard to believe that you don't glue the dove tail in or maybe I misunderstood you.
You ALWAYS glue the dovetail. Just the sides of the joint, never the heel of the neck that's in contact with the sides.
Kung Fu neck reset! 🤞🤣