Great to see a tutorial using basic equipment. Most flash videos use stupidly expensive studio strobes like Godox, with a 4 foot wide softbox set up by an assistant! Really useful for amateur photographers to see what's achievable with a basic speedlight and modifier as that's all most of us have. Thanks for this 🙂
Good advice and presentation. Thanks for letting me know about step up rings. I have 77mm filters and a new 50mm f1.4 which takes 58mm filters. I'm now getting the conversion rings so I can use all my filters on my new lens
Thanks for sharing but I will like to point out a couple of discrepancies in your tutorial. At 10:00, you were trying to open up the aperture from f/11 using a 5-stop ND filter. The difference between f/11 and f/2 is 5 stops but you ended up using f/4 instead which is not mathematically consistent. I believe you must be using a 3-stop ND filter instead. At 10:50, you moved on to using the "13-stop ND filter" where the settings 1/200 @ iso 100 @ f/1.6 is used with 1/8 +0.7 stop of flash power from a distance of about 5-6 feet away from the subject. In my many years of taking portraits using ND filters in high noon, I have never used a 13-stop ND filter or heard of anyone use one in a typical portrait session. If you were using a Canon 5D with an optical viewfinder, you will not be able to focus or see anything through the viewfinder. Normally, for a powerful Speedlite at full power, it is able to expose properly at iso 100 @ f/16 from 8 feet away. To use a 13-stop ND filter with the settings of iso 100 @ f/1.6 with 1/8 +0.7 stop of flash power, the flash needs to be about 0.5 feet away from the subject! I have calculated that it is more likely that you were using a 6-stop ND filter instead.
I think your correct. 13 stops of ND that is more than the 10 stops in Lee filter which they called The Big stopper. He will not be able to see anything and focus for that matter on a optical view finder.I'm not sure when using mirrorless cameras and nd filter. I think turning off the exposure preview will let you see the image at normal exposure similar to viewing the image in the view finder normally as if there is no ND filter attached.
With a 6 stops filter (or darker) and a DSLR camera you will not be able to autofocus (especially with wide apertures) or see anything through the viewfinder. That's a fact!
Yes, I understood you said it is f2 not f4 as using 5-stop ND but maybe he saw result a bit bright than normal then he adjusted to f4. That is the way we always adjust after result came up and nothing wrong about adjusting aperture after results showing up a few seconds. I remember as tried and testing like that from 32 years ago that was not easy at all as we did not have digital camera yet but negative film 124 then I had to take picture a few shots then developing film and looking at result of negative films to figure how results came up at least 20 to 30 minutes.
I know it's hard to believe it's a film camera from 1998 5.5 fps. With on bord flash 1/300. With my extra flash/speed light 1/12000 The minolta alpha a9 All metal structure and weather sealed. It's the accumulation of all that came before it. Digital was just kicking off. Wich makes this camera the last of its kind and the king of the 35mm film slr. The flash speed on this old 35mm film camera is just crazy for the time. I have never shot anything at 1/12000.
@@jerryrichards8172 There are lots of good 35 mm cameras out there. So what's the point of mentioning that one in particular as as a comment for this particular video?
@@fixxforlife1569 looks like , I was probably talking about the 300th sync speed on a old camera then went off topic over a camera I just wanted to share.
F11 to f2 is 5 stops which I assume is why you chose a 5 stops ND filter. However, instead of choosing f2 you chose f4 instead. Is that so you can under expose the ambient by 2 stops?
Hey! Thank you for your video! I have a question. I like this technique but since im often in a big city with a lot of people there is no way to set up off camera flash. Is it possible to het the same effect with on camera flash? Can you give some tips? Thnx!
Hi there. You sure can get the same effect. However there won’t be much shape or dimension in your light unless you bounce the off camera flash onto a reflective surface such as a reflector or white surface. Doing this however will cut down more power from your flash.
Great to see a tutorial using basic equipment. Most flash videos use stupidly expensive studio strobes like Godox, with a 4 foot wide softbox set up by an assistant! Really useful for amateur photographers to see what's achievable with a basic speedlight and modifier as that's all most of us have. Thanks for this 🙂
It's my pleasure!!!
I prefer my 600 watt flash. It’s big to lug around but man the look is unique
You think Godox is expensive? That's on the cheaper side of things, my friend.
Thank you. The best video I have watched about ND filters and flashes! Simple and direct. Congrats !
Thank you!!!!
Great video, short, sweet, to the point and very useful. Thanks for the great tips.
Great information on speed light photography. Thanks
Good advice and presentation. Thanks for letting me know about step up rings. I have 77mm filters and a new 50mm f1.4 which takes 58mm filters. I'm now getting the conversion rings so I can use all my filters on my new lens
Nice tutorial and guidance too. Thanks a lot for sharing like this type of video. We expect more useful videos from you.
Thank you for this information 🙏👍👍
Like the way you explained and demonstrated of the whole process. Thank you very much
My pleasure!
Great job. I thought about using ND filter to reduce the shutter speed too but I'm not sure. Then I found this video so useful.
My pleasure I am glad I could help!
Really appreciate your lesson, thanks a lot for the help
Glad it helped
Thanks for a great video. Nice presentation and lots of useful information. Cheers
You did a good job on showing how to use a camera flash...thanks
Thanks that was amazing explanation!
thanks for the tip on the step-up-rings.
Welldone and thanks for your video. From Cape Town, South Africa.
Thanks for the feedback mate!
Great video, very helpful information.
Great video. I enjoyed and learned a lot. Thank you
Thanks for sharing I did enjoy it
Thanks for sharing but I will like to point out a couple of discrepancies in your tutorial. At 10:00, you were trying to open up the aperture from f/11 using a 5-stop ND filter. The difference between f/11 and f/2 is 5 stops but you ended up using f/4 instead which is not mathematically consistent.
I believe you must be using a 3-stop ND filter instead.
At 10:50, you moved on to using the "13-stop ND filter" where the settings 1/200 @ iso 100 @ f/1.6 is used with 1/8 +0.7 stop of flash power from a distance of about 5-6 feet away from the subject. In my many years of taking portraits using ND filters in high noon, I have never used a 13-stop ND filter or heard of anyone use one in a typical portrait session. If you were using a Canon 5D with an optical viewfinder, you will not be able to focus or see anything through the viewfinder. Normally, for a powerful Speedlite at full power, it is able to expose properly at iso 100 @ f/16 from 8 feet away. To use a 13-stop ND filter with the settings of iso 100 @ f/1.6 with 1/8 +0.7 stop of flash power, the flash needs to be about 0.5 feet away from the subject!
I have calculated that it is more likely that you were using a 6-stop ND filter instead.
thank you.
I think your correct. 13 stops of ND that is more than the 10 stops in Lee filter which they called The Big stopper. He will not be able to see anything and focus for that matter on a optical view finder.I'm not sure when using mirrorless cameras and nd filter. I think turning off the exposure preview will let you see the image at normal exposure similar to viewing the image in the view finder normally as if there is no ND filter attached.
With a 6 stops filter (or darker) and a DSLR camera you will not be able to autofocus (especially with wide apertures) or see anything through the viewfinder. That's a fact!
@@danielfriasfotografia there is no need to autofocus after putting on an ND filter for the scenarios used in this video
Yes, I understood you said it is f2 not f4 as using 5-stop ND but maybe he saw result a bit bright than normal then he adjusted to f4. That is the way we always adjust after result came up and nothing wrong about adjusting aperture after results showing up a few seconds.
I remember as tried and testing like that from 32 years ago that was not easy at all as we did not have digital camera yet but negative film 124 then I had to take picture a few shots then developing film and looking at result of negative films to figure how results came up at least 20 to 30 minutes.
Cool video man! Thanks for sharing the knowledge✌🏾
Ulric Cajuste My pleasure. Glad it helped.
Well explained. Thank you.
You're a proper teacher bro👌🏽
This tutorial is still the goat🐐
Great video
Nice video, vary well explained 👍
Such a great educational gem! Greetings from Bangladesh!
Thanks so much! glad you enjoyed it,
My panasonich ha 1/250 sync speed . I never use high speed sync. I stop down or use a nd filter. A speed lite can do a lot if you work this way.
I know it's hard to believe it's a film camera from 1998
5.5 fps.
With on bord flash 1/300.
With my extra flash/speed light 1/12000
The minolta alpha a9
All metal structure and weather sealed.
It's the accumulation of all that came before it.
Digital was just kicking off. Wich makes this camera the last of its kind and the king of the 35mm film slr.
The flash speed on this old 35mm film camera is just crazy for the time.
I have never shot anything at 1/12000.
so ummm...what's your point?
@@fixxforlife1569 it's just a good 35mm camera.
@@jerryrichards8172 There are lots of good 35 mm cameras out there. So what's the point of mentioning that one in particular as as a comment for this particular video?
@@fixxforlife1569 looks like
, I was probably talking about the 300th sync speed on a old camera then went off topic over a camera I just wanted to share.
Thanks a lot ❤
Nice presentation i just bought an ND filter and im just starting to use it..
Its like bringing a knife to a gunfight. No thanks!
If it's all you got, you'll be dead if you don't even try
To each his own I guess :)
thanks, ,very nice and informative video
Awesome 😎
why are you referring to flashes in terms of watts per second, which is wrong, instead of watts seconds (or joules).
The jacket thing was annoying, was it cold ??
Yes. Very.
@@photos-fera7392 ok understandable then😊
😍😍👍🏻 your #1 fan right here!!!
Thanks a ton love!
If I put higher stop nd filter it will also darken the background, if my flash sync speed limit is reached, I would end up jacking up iso correct?
i still use on cam flash and 135 mm lens
Get the flash off camera!
Informative
F11 to f2 is 5 stops which I assume is why you chose a 5 stops ND filter. However, instead of choosing f2 you chose f4 instead. Is that so you can under expose the ambient by 2 stops?
No. He said the wrong thing by accident.
How much power would be needed to shoot full power? Could it be done with 2-3 speed lights?
You could easily do this with 2-3 speedlights but even with 1 + ND filter as I demonstrated in this video.
@@photos-fera7392 sorry. I meant to ask how much power is needed overpower the sun when shooting a full body shot?
Hey! Thank you for your video! I have a question. I like this technique but since im often in a big city with a lot of people there is no way to set up off camera flash. Is it possible to het the same effect with on camera flash? Can you give some tips? Thnx!
Hi there. You sure can get the same effect. However there won’t be much shape or dimension in your light unless you bounce the off camera flash onto a reflective surface such as a reflector or white surface. Doing this however will cut down more power from your flash.
❤❤❤
F/11 to f/2 is 5 tops. Not f/4.
You’re right. My mistake.
You’re not overpowering the sun, (good luck with that!) you’re underexposing ambient light…
Clearly. It’s a figure of speech. But thank you.