E7 Rewiring a 101 year old house Removing the old knob and tube wiring and install Romex
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- Опубліковано 3 лип 2021
- In this episode I add 19 more outlets to the existing four that are on the second floor. I take up the old flooring and remove the baseboards to run new wiring and expose and remove the old knob and tube wiring.
I get into the first floor lighting circuit and run all new wire for that too.
There's a few snags along the way, but Caesar and I get it done. - Навчання та стиль
I love how your dog is very insistent about huggies.
The dog is such a nice buddy.
As an electrician, I do see people interpret the codebook differently. I used to argue with inspectors about niche code footnotes and then just started to do what they wanted because they were the AHJ. The 6' / 12' receptacles requires recepts to be placed within 6' of broken length and if there's a slider, then 6' from the opening part. 12' along unbroken length of the wall is fine. Every wall 2' or wider requires at least one outlet. Hallways require one outlet unless they are longer than 12'. One dedicated GFCI 20amp recept in bathrooms. At least two dedicated 20 amp circuits in kitchen. No other outlets can be attached to these or any lighting except when powering a gas range. You need one switch at every door opening and one for every outside light at the door opening. Two bedrooms can be on one circuit if you need to save space in the electrical panel. I prefer to run a home run to each bedroom switch box and branch off to the outlet run. It's good you pointed out flying splice boxes and flying splices. They are exceptionally dangerous an can start a fire in the wall cavities. Code also requires firestop caulk in holes between top and bottom plates of wall cavities to prevent the spread of a fire in the wall space. Sometimes they may require you to put GFCI on the front and back of the outside. Don't forget the smoke detector runs if you can or at least put one battery powered one in each of the bedrooms and one outside bedroom on each level.
ATS. Wonderful information. Don’t forget one 20amp to each the garage and the laundry room. Thank you.
All good information. Thank you for your knowledge!
@@homeanddog4984 You're welcome. Also, 12 gauge is a pain in the arse and not necessary for light general use circuits like lighting and bedroom/living room outlets. The correct figure on general use/lighting circuits is: 3 watts x square foot. newer lighting reduces the load considerably.
@@ATSNorthernMI Right. Over the years I have heard folks discuss how many receptacles are allowable on a particular lighting circuit in a dwelling unit (including in this video) but the reality is you can have as many general-purpose lighting receptacles as you want on a circuit, provided the 3 watts/ft2 is not exceeded. That stated, he's in great shape having WAY over provided power to these bedrooms. The only thing he truly did wrong for Code compliance is not dedicating all of the receptacles in the bathroom on their own 20 A circuit.
Also an electrical contractor. It was sad to see how misinformed somebody made him.
I started watching this video and decided this was too interesting to watch out of order so I started with the first video. Thanks for making these videos.
Glad you're enjoying these videos. This is a fun house to work on.
I just stumbled across this video. How it showed up in my suggested feeds, I have no idea but I am very thankful for it. My home is one of these near centennial homes that still has a bunch of active tube & knob wiring. For almost 6 months now (as I type this) I have been toiling over the idea that I'm going to have to break off plaster & lathe and rip open whole walls just to get all of this old stuff gone and new romex in.
Until I saw you simply routing new boxes and outlets through the BASEBOARD, it had never dawned on me just how easy (I say that, tongue in cheek) it would be to get the new wire ran. I have saved this video, for sure, for my future reference. Thank you for creating it.
Glad you enjoyed the video! I have found over the years that removing the baseboards to run the wiring was the least invasive way to run new wiring. I have read that was what some installers used to do when homes were being wired for the first time. Back in the early part of the 1900's when wallpaper was prevalent, it would have been expensive to knock holes in walls for adding wiring and outlets. That's why the preferred method then was to put outlets in the baseboards.
It's not "easy". Hire a licensed professional. This kind of work has zero room for error and is quite illegal to perform without a license.
You don't need receptacles every 6 feet! The NEC states that at no point along the perimeter of a room should there ever be more than 6 feet to the nearest receptacle. That basically means a minimum of every 12 feet. I personally think every 8 feet is plenty. Awesome job pulling the 12/2 and 14/2 cable, and getting rid of old knob-n-tube wires.
You are correct on the outlet spacing. When I redo the electrical on an apartment like this, I do put them every 6 feet apart because tenants tend to use undersized extension cords on heavy appliances like space heaters and air conditioners. Over a 24-year period of having rentals, I have had three fires caused by undersized extension cords. This is why I put outlets every six feet apart and under every window. Glad you liked the video.
@@homeanddog4984 Wow, good for you for thinking ahead. I too am a landlord, and I have an 1890-built duplex house (132 years old)! I have a finished tongue-in-groove maple flooring I don't want to upset, so I can't remove old K-n-T without ruining the floor, and I don't want to tear out the plaster-lath walls or ceilings. But I did manage to fish new circuits throughout from the attic and basement. I put labels on those old K-n-T receptacles on the faceplate that reads "75 watts max", and I have a modern receptacle right next to it on a new circuit.
@@homeanddog4984wow good to know about the extension cord issue you’ve experienced 😮
I was fascinated that each room had so many receptacles?. Great idea to just remove the bottom trim for access. Even better idea to go with 12/2 now! Thank you for sharing. Wire On!
How to decide about 12/2 or 14/2 for a 15 A circuit?
Outlets every 6" is double what the code requires. The Coded rule is 6' from a doorway you put a outlet then 12' to the next outlet (as long as the wall is continuous and not broken by a doorway). If you run into another door way you start with the 6' rule again. The rule is any item placed on the floor on the perimeter must be within 6' of an outlet Also there is no limit to the # of outlets you can put on a circuit. And you do not need 2 circuits in a bedroom. The two circuit requirement is only for kitchen and dining rooms outlets otherwise known as the small appliance branch circuits. I would use #14 for the bedroom receptacles (easier to work with) unless you have window ACs which a window ac SHOULD have it's own circuit but it is not mandatory if it draws less than 7.5 amps for a 15 amp circuit ot 10 amps for a 20 amp circuit.
Thank you so much for explanation ❗️ I was inspecting my recently purchased farmhouse ( build in 1913), and noticed newer nails in some floorboards, and now I know why ❗️
Great video ❗️
Love the dog ❗️
Glad you liked the video! Caesar says woof
Dude this is awesome. I live in rural Virginia and there’s so many houses that are old out here. Love the dog too.
Glad you like it and the dog too. Many more videos to come.
Great videos. Really loved this one with the planning and layout explanation beforehand.
Glad you enjoyed the videos!
Great video thanks for the examples on how to make rewriting an old house a little bit easier
About time for a video like this! thank you for the walk through, liked the depth and length very good detail. Our home (built in 1942) has good bones but needs this kind of care.
Glad you liked the video! Sadly things like electrical and plumbing don't last forever and need and upgrade.
I started watching your videos because I'm doing research on a bathroom remodel for my 100 yr old home, and I jumped back to watch the demo in the bathroom. Its funny that you talked about a power screw driver. I just posted a video on my channel about a Milwaukee power screw driver that I just bought. Crazy timing.
You make it look easy, but I’ll never try it. I’ll leave that to you guys. I love watching your videos.
Thank you very much! It is hard work sometimes, but the end result pays off.
Great demonstration, appreciate.
Fantastic video. Great work!
Thank you very much!
Fantastic detail.
Glad you like it!
Great video! Clean work n beautiful dog.
Thank you very much!
You sure are quick worker, I like video.
Thank you!
Thanks for sharing, nice work. I appreciate showing the 8:58 mark where it left a mark... would have been a good part to loop for about 5 times in the outtakes but it was probably a perfect video other than that. Thanks.
Great video!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Very thorough work. As labor intensive as all this is, it is still a more desirable situation than what I face in a 100 yr old house with K&T wiring. It is several times the size of the house shown here, and there are no sheetrock walls. All my walls are either wood beadboard or plaster on lath, all original to the house. So, without about a half-million dollar budget it is quite a problem to consider replacing all the K&T wiring, add some wall insulation while at it, and fix all the walls. Also, these are very large rooms with few outlets per room. Another issue stalling progress is that the house is very fully occupied.
Well - that will be very challenging project.
Try to label and trace down all zones , then try to address first the most problematic zones ( flickering lights, dim lights, etc).
Good luck with your project ❗️
@@mar1video There is no dimming or flickering. The actual problems are insufficient outlets and I will not add more burden to the Knob-and-Tube wiring. Do not want to use 2 appliances at once. Worried about house safety. And another problem: insurance companies do not like to insure a K&T wired house.
Sounds like you have a mansion. Maybe try rewiring one room one room every six months or so. The project won't seem so overwhelming that way and won't disrupt the people living there too much.
How did you end up approaching your project? We have a 1908 house that needs a complete rewire. Looking for ideas on approach. Can it be done without gutting?
@@karenchesney9109 I did not and cannot approach the problem of redoing my house. There is no sense rewiring unless I also gut all the cracked plaster walls and the drafty beadboard walls, and the entire house needs insulation in the walls. As I say, for the size and condition of my house, this would cost $500,000 which is really not worth it because there are countless other deficiencies as well. Best thing is the bulldozer and start over, but who has extra millions to do this? It is simply a big problem with no answer.
You can place a GFCI (G=ground)as the first outlet on the circuit and it can protect all outlets downstream (including bathroom and even the old two-wire outlets (no ground).
(As I understand it, they are even coming out with "breakers" with GFCI capability so no more "special outlets" will ever be needed.)
FYI - AFCI (A=Arc) (fault circuit interrupt has also been added to main breakers)
yeah I did that first outlet gfci and second one protected though the gfci in the bathroom in episode 15. I was always told by the inspector to use a gfci breaker in conjunction with gfci outlets for double protection incase one failed. different areas have different local codes.
GFCI breakers have been around for at least 40 years.
True, but a total rewire is always a superior method. Old wiring can have problems just for being old.
@@okaro6595
It money is no object, sure.
Can’t go wrong with the fuzzy supervisor 😂
Good work. Love your dog. I have one almost identical.
great job, thank you very much!
Solid info!
God bless.
Glad it was helpful!
Excellent work! I live in a similar style house, and I never thought it could be so easy to add outlets, as I've never thought to take off the baseboards.
Thank you! It worked out pretty well.
@@homeanddog4984 I shouldn't say it could be "so easy". You made it look easy because you obviously know what you're doing. 👍👍
If you don't want to remove your baseboards, or are afraid of possibly damaging the wall, you can do what I did, and just do a bunch of junction boxes in the attic, and drop new wire down the wall and cut holes with an oscillating tool for your new device boxes.
90% of my plaster was in great shape and I didn't want to damage it.
So, I just cut through the baseboards and plaster for my boxes. Even made myself a template out of sheet metal so I could do the cuts square.
Make sure you have a lot of blades for your oscillating tool. That plaster chews them up quick.
@@tay13666 I like that idea as well. 👍👍
@@Dave-nm3xc It's a little more expensive, as you are using a lot more wire, plus all the junction boxes. But you also save on repairing walls. Especially since a lot of the wall have a subtle swirl texture in the plaster.
And I could do one room at a time while we lived in the house.
I had everything in this house. K&T, cloth wrapped, romex with no ground, MC, and newer romex. All tied into 5 fuse boxes. I had a new panel put in, and have almost replaced everything now. Just have a few more lighting circuits to finish, but it's too cold in the attic in the winter (and way too hot in the summer) Still sorting out how I am going to do the 3-way for the stairs. Trying to avoid having to go from the 1st floor switch down to the basement, then up to the attic. 14-3 is expensive.
This was such an awesome and really informative video!! Wish you were a contractor in Portland, OR!
Glad you liked the video! Unfortunately I'm about 2500 miles away.
In the midwest?
@@ibealion1 Western Pennsylvania
I didn't know that I could touch all my trash twice. What an insightful video. This whole time I've been putting my trash directly into a bag or trash bin instead of dropping it on the floor from 3 ft to create dust. Who would have thunk???
Love the dog....!!!
Always take time out to pat the dog. Nice video, that was a lot of work for one guy
Caesar likes his petting time. Glad you liked the video. Definitely a lot of work.
Just what I was looking for
Glad it was helpful!
I’m gonna call you “Jack” (of all trades👍)
Heh! That's great.
The dog repeatedly coming to check in was the highlight of the video. It's like when you're outside working on your car and your dog keeps coming over to either lick your face, or not you for scratches. You are trying to get your work done but you can't help it to stop and give them your attention for a few minutes.
43:20 I have that same multi-bit screwdriver. Good quality screw twiddler.
It's one of my favorite tools. Thanks for watching!
This guy is clearly not an electrician due to the fact he cleans up his own mess.
My guess is to give easy access from the bedrooms to the kitchen or basement without having to walk all the way through the house. Just a shortcut.
Not only an electrician, but a plumber also.
overall nice job...always want to put neutral side up when installing receptecales sideways like that .
Good tip!
Why is that?
@@mikebevan1034 if a plug were to come out enough where the blades were showing something could hit them....anything metal hits the neutral you wont get a spark show....say you used a metal faceplate and it came loose and fell on the neutral blade of the plug.....unlikely but can happen
@@workingshlub8861 Cool info. Thanks!
@@workingshlub8861 - you mean neutral on bottom 😉
Hot on top.
1st time viewer & 1st time subscriber ... You wore that dog plumb out ... Thx for posting
I bought a house built in the 1800s. Most of the lighting is still knob and tube and a lot of the circuits. "New" panel from 15 years ago has Romex wire going to a jbox 2 feet away that has all the knob and tube spliced to it.
That sounds like a fun project. Are you going to rewire the house?
@@homeanddog4984 I do plan to. The first floor wiring won't be too bad because all the existing wiring is accessible from the basement. Getting in my second floor attic will be interesting because I'm too big to fit in the little access panel in the closet so I'll probably want to cut a new access panel in the hallway or something.
I have a few issues. Bathrooms need to be on their own dedicated 20 amp circuit. You can feed multiple bathrooms from the same circuit but needs to be dedicated. You can't feed bathroom outlets off of other room outlets other than bathrooms.
Kitchen needs at a minimum 2 20 amp small appliance circuits. Dishwasher, fridge, microwave, and disposal should be on their own separate circuits.
The bathroom was fixed last year. Watch episode 15 I think. Haven't started wiring the kitchen yet.
Any thing with a motor will really cause issues .
So useful to see the whole process all at once!
I think you should be installing strike plates on any studs that have wiring running through them, dawg. The next guy might drill into your stud and get a shock, very dangerous.
Also I wouldn't double up on the terminal screws on receptacles; better to pigtail separately, no?
I have had an outlet short out, so now I use a pigtail and not run power through the outlet. Takes the load off the first outlets, plus the down stream continue to work.
10:22 - The bathroom outlets must be on their own 20A circuit. The bedrooms don't need to be 20A; they can be 15A.
Lovely dog
I am working on a similar house, my house is 112 years old. where did you get those fiberglass electrical boxes with the metal tabs they are great! Lowe's only has the plastic boxes I prefer to use the non-metallic boxes. Thanks for a great video .
Damn, look at all these pros on here. Y'all can always start your own channel 🤷♂️
Bruh you are the MAN and this vid is gold. Question: How did you know which/that floorboards had already been pulled up to install the knob-n-tube wiring? What were the tell tale signs? I need to know how to find the old entry points. Thanks!
Also, your dog - i just wanna snuggle that adorable pooch. He sure does love you
Glad you liked the video! When I pulled off the bullnose trim against the baseboard is when I noticed some of the floorboards had been cut just short of the baseboard. I used a really thin prybar in the cut and carefully lifted up the floorboard. I also looked for short cut floorboards near the center of the room that were over top of the ceiling lights in the rooms below. In other houses I've worked on sometimes the floorboards are face nailed. Those are the clues to look for. Good luck!
@@homeanddog4984 So helpful! Thanks so much!!
27:40 I know your using fiberglass outlet boxes. IF the box was metal as in some older homes have. Would you wrap rubber electrical tape around the base of the outlet neutral (white) and hot (black) grounding screws? At least that is what I do/did when replacing outlets in my son's home he just bought. It is a 106 year old home and has some really OLD outlets. Thanks for the video! Very informative.
A little extra insulation from the electrical tape at the base of the wire doesn't hurt. If nothing else it neatens up the outer casing before being clamped into a metal box. Yes a green grounding screw and ground wire coming from it is necessary in any metal box. All grounds get connected together. Sounds like you know what you're doing. Glad you liked the video.
@@homeanddog4984 Your welcome. One outlet had a wire from the ground screw to the neutral wire/screw... I was YIKES!
@@eastcoastmodz5195 oh boy... that's not good. I run across that from time to time. Glad you fixed it.
@East Coast Modz A friend of mine asked me to check out a circuit breaker that kept tripping on an old unused circuit at his house. Turned out someone had wire nutted a green ground wire to one of the black hot wires. Mind boggling!
can i just rewire each room and do the other different day?or has to be done all in one shot?just tryina do this myself.
Yeah you can do one room at a time. I did it all at once because I wasn't living there and I had bought the wire before the price doubled.
Thanks--this was really helpful. But I was told that although outlets were often placed in the baseboards in old houses the new codes required them to be placed higher on the wall? Is that true?
It is not true. The National Electric Code does not require general-purpose lighting outlets to be at a particular height. In commercial occupancies many times the receptacles are specified at 18" AFF due to requirements of the Americans with Disabilities Act (ADA) but there is no enforcement means for complying with those rules in dwelling units (unless the dwelling is specifically permitted as an accessible dwelling). So put them in the baseboard! It's a great look, especially when mounted horizontally (neutrals up by the way).
I had to check with the building inspector to make sure I didn't tell you the wrong thing. He said there is no specified minimum height for outlets on the wall unless they are in a damp or wet areas when they are typically at four feet above the floor but no higher than five and a half feet. Floor outlets are still permitted which I think are a dangerous idea. And as Steve said in the previous comment install the outlet with the neutral side up (the longer of the two slots) for safety.
@@homeanddog4984 - The National Electrical Code (NEC) doesn't require a certain direction. The NEC allows outlets to be installed with the ground plug hole facing up, down or sideways. It's up to you, there is no standard electric outlet orientation.
I prefer neutral down, in case a wire becomes loose it will fall onto a neutral, or if there is a water in the box ( condensation, moisture, bugs, etc) neutral on the bottom is much better (metal box is already grounded) . With hot on top there is about 2 inches of space between bottom of the box and hot lead.
I understand this is new standards and I guess bringing a house to code?
Although I also thought code was the receptacles have to be a certain hight from the ground if you change over the wire ?
Anyways if one has lived in the house for years without issue then why add all those boxes ?
I have a small 2 bedroom lathe and plaster home with 2 circuits that are still nob and tube
I’ve been quoted 30k to “bring the house to standards” but my only concern is to disconnect the nob and tube and run new romex and receptacles to those areas of the home
I’m not lacking for power or receptacles and even have 5 circuits that are no longer in use in my 100 amp fuse panel
Does this have to be done if I ever want to sell the house in the future?
did you get asbestos testing done on materials of this house before you started reno?
28:29...older character homes like that I'll go to the Restore store and get metal ones with a classic look
Your wiring is great. I do wonder why you wired the outlets in series instead of parallel. I had to change several outlets to parallel in my daughters house when a shorted outlet killed everything downstream. Also makes changing out the outlet easier later on if necessary.
Everything is still technically parallel. All the hots are bound together and would get power independently. Only switches are run in series.
@@stevensmith4099 the way you did it they're in series, not parallel.
@@alanyoder7629I think I know why you're confused. Even though the outlets are chained together the "hot" stays on the left and and "neutral" stays on the right. If it were in series the neutral of one outlet would go into the hot of the next outlet. Instead the two black "hot" wires share a bus bar on each outlet so the entire chain of black wires stays electrified no matter how far down the chain you go. I think what you mean is why didn't they split at the wire or do home runs instead of doing it within the outlet? The short answer is simplicity, but both ways are technically correct wirings (assuming the spice is done properly in a j box) and "parallel" .
@@stevensmith4099if one outlet is fed by wiring attached to another outlet, that's series. Parallel wiring is done by using pig tail wires inside a box that attach to the outlet in that box only. More than one wire of each color is series wiring. I'm definitely not confused.
@@alanyoder7629 the two brass screws are both on the "hot" side of the circuit and isolated from the neutral silver screws. This is electrically the same thing as using a wire nut in the box. It's considered daisy chaining. Series is a completely different concept where the neutral of one component would serve as the hot for the next. If you wired an outlet this way it would mostly likely just not work and and at worst ruin your appliance or overheat and start a fire.
It's a non-code technique that only really works in incandescent lighting to present a voltage drop that effectively would cause the bulbs to dim as each would effectively act as a resistor. I was taught this technique in film school lighting classes as an alternative to using a dimmer. The only place we would see it today is pre-wired within an appliance itself with electronics that are designed for it.
It's 6 feet within a sink and all bathroom areas
@2:33: You'd need connectors or bushings in those holes. You can't just run NM straight into a metal box.
One thing I would really think about is using that nail gun make sure not to nick a wire ,spend few more pennies buy a commercial grade outlets .Dump the drill on screwing the outlets loose screws is what is the most common issue with outlets .
Sounds good!
Question. What made you choose 12 gauge wire but not 20amp outlets?
The code says you can use either the 15A or 20A outlet so he's guessing he will never have a huge 20A power saw in the house nor draw more than 15 off one outlet. That's a good bet 99.9% of the time. But I prefer how the 20A outlets are built and it's like $2 more so I see it as a good investment and buy the 20A outlets even though it is overkill and I don't own a 20A tool. So, it's not just preference, he's making an educated gamble that the 20A outlets aren't worth the investment.
@@OggyBleacher Thanks for that answer
I knew they could go together but one could fail if over worked, either the outlet or wire, whichever was the “smallest” load capacity.
I wonder how much would this type of work cost?
How long does a project like this take? Just out of curiosity and let's say you only had to do the outlets for whatever reason.
I spent a few weeks on the second floor wiring. It took a little longer than it should because of having to move the camera around all the time.
Just curious why didn't he just have the blue circuit follow the baseboard and run along side the red circuit to go to the basement
Respectfully sir, national code only requires 12ft between receptacles…so that the greatest distance between any receptacle is a maximum of 6ft… not 6 between receptacles.
That being said I like more because of furniture placement.
Also bedrooms do not require again per NEC more than one circuit. Nothing wrong with above and beyond. Just wanted to clarify details.. I like the content thank you.
Yes you are correct! The NEC states the MAXIMUM distance between outlets is 12 feet though closer spacing is appreciated by my inspector. This house being a rental I try to keep outlets near windows for when air conditioners are used. Too many times I've seen a lamp extension cord used on an air conditioner.
You are referring to the 6 12 rule and it states "You must have an electrical receptacle 6 feet from any obstruction or break in the wall, such as a doorway, and no more than 12 feet from the previous electrical receptacle." So this being said in a 12'x12' room you would only need 4 receptacle total if you placed the in the very center of each wall. Yes I agree that I like more spots to things in but what he is doing is WAY too many per room.
Also, NEC requires bathrooms to be on their own 20 amp circuit. with bathroom lighting and fans on their own separate circuit. That means two dedicated circuits for one or more bathrooms, with the outlets connected to a GFCI breaker. There are exceptions in the NEC, but none that would allow the powering of a bathroom receptacle with a circuit serving a hallway receptacle as is done in this video. However, local jurisdiction takes precedence - so this configuration may be allowed.
Bedrooms do require two circuits, but one is for lighting - so that may be where the confusion occurred. In my area, all circuits in "livable" areas have to be connected to AFCI breakers.
@@MrWizards1974 I have never seen a house with too many outlets. If it were my house, I would very much appreciate the extra power access... but obviously each person will have their own opinion.
@@peterwest323 You're on the right track, but a couple of things: 1) the 20A dedicated circuit can serve ALL of the features of a single bathroom (fans, lights, receptacles) per the Exceptions in Article 210.11(C)(3). Secondly, there is no requirement for two distinct circuits to serve a bedroom or group of bedrooms. Lighting outlets in the ceiling and receptacle outlets in the wall (those receptacles not designated to run a window air conditioner) are part of the general lighting load of the dwelling unit, which is calculated at 3 watts/ft2. If the house were small enough, you could have one circuit serve all of the lighting outlets and all of the wall receptacles in the bedrooms, family rooms, hall, and living room. That stated, it is good practice to have the lighting outlets on a separate circuit from the wall receptacles, as any overload or short circuit which might occur on a separate receptacle circuit would therefore not put the occupants in the dark.
Maybe paint before you put the baseboards back on? Hate painting on my knees.
I don't understand why a GFI outlet can't be on the same circuit with other outlets. How is that a problem?
I have seen GFCI outlets on circuits with other outlets lot of times. They were always added in later to older homes. The only reason I was told that was wrong was a GFCi outlet had to be double protected. So if there was a GFCI outlet in the bathroom, that isolated circuit would have to be connected to a GFCI circut breaker also. Since those breakers are somewhere around sixty bucks a piece, a special GFCI circuit is added to a house that picks up all the GFCI outles.
You need a twist-on green grounding wire nut with the hole in it for the grounding pigtail. Just twisting the ground wires together is not good enough.
good idea!
@@homeanddog4984 You can use a crimp connector or a wire nut. Crimp and leave pigtails for each device in the outlet box. We crimp all the grounds before the rough in inspection. Just twisting them is not allowed.
You should have your work inspected to insure you are meeting all of the regional code requirements and to show that your installation meets code, protecting you from liability in the event someone (a tenant) modifies anything in the future that fails and causes a fire.
Those wire nuts with the holes in them for connecting grounds are very difficult to find where I live.
@@heronimousbrapson863 That's strange. I keep some on my grounding box.
@@jolyonwelsh9834 - found them in Menards ( southern WI). 😉
why does code regs state two circuits per room? cant think of an explanation
it's because if there is a heavy load like an air conditioner and the breaker to that circuit trips there's other outlets in the room that still work. Thats also why the lighting circuit is separate from the outlets.
Always check your local codes. They may be different than mine.
@@homeanddog4984 that makes sense! thanks for the clarification
Don't you just love balloon construction clear chases no fire stops. It was nice to the sea that you can get away with a 100 amp panel for your rental property which is more than adequate but in the eyes of some municipalities there inspectors seem to lose common sense.
I do love balloon construction when it comes to rewiring a house. In the past I used to increase the service amperage size to something like 200 amps, but I had too many problems with the electric company wanting a year to deliberate to see if I would be overloading the transformer on the pole. 100 amp service is just fine for apartments and smaller homes like this one.
@@homeanddog4984 - I had my stove converted from electric to gas so I can use that 60amp fuse for my air compressor in the garage.
12 ft in between outlets. Any point along the wall needs to be within 6 ft from a receptacle. It’s a little confusing but in conclusion it’s 12ft from outlet to outlet.
I did 6 feet between outlets because this is a rental. Tenants use the wrong gauge extension cords on heavy appliances like air conditioners. I've had a few fires caused by ignorance.
No arc breaker?
Remember that NEC 90.4 allows great latitude to the authority having jurisdiction for electrical installations.
Also
Install wirenut on ground wires
15 amp receptacles on 20 amp circuit breakers and wires?
Henry, our code allows that, as long as the branch circuit has more than one receptacle ie duplex.
@@roymills415 The code allows it but most residential grade receptacles only are rated for 15 amps pass through capacity. Care should be taken to avoid a potential hidden fire hazard.
Roy mills nailed it. 2020 NEC 210.21 (B) (3) allows for (2 or more) 15 amp recepticles on 20 amp breakers in homes.
Also, 2020 NEC 210.19.(A) info note 3 requires wires to be sized to prevent a greater than 3% voltage drop at the farthest outlet.
2020 NEC 110.14 (A) limits screw terminals to 10 awg.
Combining those two sections and you may have a no.10 awg on a 15 amp breaker And be code compliant for just one 15 amp recepticle or a 20 amp breaker and two 15 amp recepticles.
@@keithharrington4595 This alone would make a great video.
How do you keep the wolf from eating nails and stuff?????
instead of cutting into the baseboard, why not reach up behind the lath/plaster place the outlets in the wall? Why damage good woodwork?
If I reached up inside the wall to put the outlets in, the blown in insulation would have fallen out. Since this is a rental, I wanted to do the least amount of damage to the house during the rewiring. Tenants are going to destroy the woodwork over the next twenty years or so. Adding outlets to the trim is the least of the worries to this house. if this house was for flipping or my own personal house, I would have taken everything down to the studs like the previous owner did in the bathroom and wired and insulated the house like new construction and the trim would be preserved.
You need to bring a portable doggie-bed and mandatory chew toys every day to the job where dog-o is present.
Caesar says that is a very good idea.
NIU HAT or Husky tool?
NIU
@@homeanddog4984 wow impressive! My first rental is in Dekalb County
where is that house there are some that old in the town i live in
Northwest Pennsylvania
@@homeanddog4984 Here in west virginia where i am there are[or were] at least a dozen houses that have knob and tube wiring, some have already burned down
Easy job, my walls are all brick
Brick makes things more complicated.
@@homeanddog4984 well I finished,easy peasy. But this video really helped
This is a good video on rewiring an old house EXCEPT for the fact that you wired one of the bathroom receptacles onto one of your bedroom circuits. This is not only a major code violation, but also makes no practical sense to future homeowners nor electricians. Like if someone needs to replace a receptacle in that bathroom, why the hell should they have to lose power to half of a bedroom and an entire hallway?
You should have wired that bath receptacle off of the GFCI in the same bathroom. That way, both of them are GF protected and separated from the bedrooms and hallways.
You're not the first person to mention that. The problem was fixed last year. The extra bathroom outlet was added onto the load side of the GFCI by the sink and was labeled as protected by the GFCI. I think it's in episode 14 or 15.
@@homeanddog4984 That’s nice. But this episode can easily lead people to believe that they can add another bath receptacle off of a bedroom circuit or hallway circuit.
Anyway, I’m sorry if I came across as one of those hard asses to comment code violations. I’m not an electrician but after working with electrical in my house and learning from electricians online, I started worrying about the code
Is that an NIU hat?
yes it is!
Way over counted?
sorry about your lip, but did it hurt right away? lol
after the shock wore off the pain and swelling came in
Why doe the bathroom in a 100 year old house have drywall? Would have been lath and plaster.
the previous owner took out the plaster and lathe when they redid the electric and insulated.
I personally have lived in houses with outlets in the baseboard and I hated it it was suuuuuper annoying
But I see why someone would do it seem like it’s easier for rewiring
yeah they do have their disadvantages being that low to the floor, but a lot less labor than breaking into the wall to put them in at standard height.
I need help……
rewiring help?
Bond your boxes 😢
10 outlets per 20A circuit? 2 circuits per room? What NEC code article did you find this in? No such thing. Electrician here with 40 years in the trades. In residential work, there is no limit to the number of receptacles on a circuit. 2 circuits minimum is only required in the kitchen.
With all due respect, you need to read your NEC more carefully. Where did you come up with (10) outlets per circuit? The sections in NEC that say 1.5 amps per device and number of receptacles per 15 or 20 amp circuits is for occupancies other than dwellings. Dwellings are based on sq. footage and number of circuits required. Also, where did the two circuits per room come from? Not NEC. Did you do anything in this comment wrong, no. Just some overkill.
3 volt amps per square foot right residential right??? ?? ive never heard any certain number of outlets per circuit...
@@workingshlub8861 Yes, 3VA/sq ft. There is a table that gives actual receptacle maximum quantity, but haven’t found it yet. Also, the load is 1.5 amperes per yoke, and 13 is maximum. 1.5x13=19.5. But this is for non dwelling units, not dwellings. So, you are correct twice.
@@KevinCoop1 NEC states that a circuit cannot supply more than -80%- of the circuit breakers limit. @1.5A per outlet, that's 8 on a 15A circuit, and 10 on a 20A
@@Sartek Is this your opinion, what you have heard, or what NEC actually says? I believe that you can not give me a number of a code article that will say what you are saying. So, please comment again with the code article numbers you reference.
@@KevinCoop1 nec 210.19(a) conductors must be sized to ampacity of not less than non continuous load + 125% continuous load, and 210.20(a) overcurrent protection must be rated at 125% of load.
you also have to look at the UL white book entry for circuit breakers which states that unless otherwise marked, circuit breakers should not be loaded to exceed 80% of their current rating. Circuit load discussions have been going on for 20+ years about the 80% rule, and it's still enforced by iaei and is also spelled out in the basic nec code rules and design practice book in chapter 3 under circuit loading guidelines. The circuit can be upped to 100% load of ALL parts of the assembly including ocpd is rated for 100% continuous use. This changes what conductors can be used due to heat generation, since the calculation is done from 75 c, but the conductors will likely have to be rated to 90 c.
When you cut off the main breaker,you should always turn off all of the other breakers as well sport.
Good tip!
I don't need to see every step you take, even at faster speed.
U don't know enough to b doing what you r trying to do the grounds u twist together have to b mechanical connected like a crimp cap.
Way too much video showing you take baseboard off and nails. Need to show accessing wiring in walls. And reconnecting with new wiring and how it’s bought to panel . 23 outlets on one floor sounds outrageous too much . Only 4 to a room is more then adequate. Also pulling runs to panel are all lose no fasteners? Wiring needs to be fastened every 4 or 5 feet.
Are you saving the old insulators!
He doesn't have a clue