The MicroJig GRR-RIPPER vs. A Push Stick
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- Опубліковано 30 чер 2024
- Safety is king for everyone working with a table saw! This video is meant to be more of a discussion than a review. My goal here is to start a constructive conversation about how to better use the Grr-ripper.
Basic Gripper GR-100 amzn.to/3W5yeDF
Advanced Gripper GR-200 amzn.to/3W5yeDF
Complete Gripper GR-281 amzn.to/3W5yeDF
1/8 Inch Leg Accessory amzn.to/3DH0OUN
Power tool are dangerous. (Even with the Grr-ripper) Always unplug when servicing and adjusting. Please Work Safe
#TableSaw #MicroJig #GRR-RIPPER
00:00 Intro
04:05 Difficulties
05:13 GRR-RIPPER vs Push Stick
08:00 Unreasonable Difficulties?
08:48 Conclusion. Thanks For Watching!! - Навчання та стиль
Thanks for the video! Nicely done. We welcome all discussions about safety around the shop. We will point out that there is a full suite of instructional videos on our MicroJig UA-cam channel. There are nine short chapters covering most topics. And one is just on the various accessories. I personally began using the GRR-RIPPER 14+ years ago while employed as a full time woodworker. That is how I ended up working for MicroJig. After all these years, I still occasionally find new ways to use my GRR-RIPPERs when I have a tricky cut to make.
Hello Microjig! Thanks for commenting! You guys have some great instructional vids on your channel and I would encourage everyone to go check them out!
Good video. I'm woodworker who has worked in surgery for 30 years. Mostly trauma centers. I can't even count how many mangled hands I've helped put back together because of dog bites and power tool kickback. Grippers helps prevent kickback by controlling both sides of the wood. I'd rather risk A $10-$20 board than a 10-20 month recovery. I recommend Gripper.
An important reminder that even the most experienced of us can end up in the hospital. Thank you for the comment!
So, as a surgeon you recommend that the blade guard is removed from table saws, to allow the use of a gripper? Are you aware that most of the injuries that you see would have been prevented by always, repeat always, having a blade guard in place?
@@Tensquaremetreworkshop Not an MD so not a surgeon, just the guy standing/sitting across from him. It took time for me to get used to it but my fingers never get close to the blade after setup. Most injuries to fingers I've seen were due to pushing down on kickback.
Since using 2 MicroJigs I have more surface control and my digits are farther away wrapped around a handle.
I have come to realize that this is a cultural thing. The European attitude is 'a spinning blade is dangerous; we can put a cover over it, so we will. Always.' US? Nope, it is usually safe. Probably. Applies to more than table saws. Result? Industrial accidents in Europe are about one fifth of the US (adjusting for population).Road accidents- the Cybertruck, legal on US roads, will never be allowed in Europe. It does not even come close to meeting safety requirements. Result of such differences? Road deaths are less than a third in Europe. Why are Americans so careless of life and limb? I leave that to others, it is beyond my understanding.
Grippers- a fixed system will always be safer and more accurate than a hand held device. I use non-return rollers on both my fence and table. Accurate cuts, my hands are never over the table, and kickbacks eliminated. There are other systems, of course, that have the same benefits. It is willful not to use them.
I do not understand this. With a push stick, my hands are more far away then with the gripper. I fully agree on the video, it is strange to move your hand over the blade with this tool, while you learn to keep it away. There needs to be a lot of pressure to move the piece of wood with the gripper, so you cannot control if something happens.
You're right in what you are saying. I have a Grri-ipper and I use it mainly for small stock. Especially when it's a precious piece. If I was ripping a long board like you are I'd use push sticks. One thing I did notice is you should be putting the block on a little from the fence first then put pressure on it until it moves to the fence and pushes the work up to the fence. You are placing it against the fence and then bringing it down - but the timber wasn't tight up against the fence. Just an observation. I also used two push sticks cut at slightly different angles. One for pushing inwards and the other for pushing the timber through.
The self-deprecating view of, "Maybe it's just me...", which shows true character. No matter the subject, starting from such a point of view, THAT in itself demands respect. And attention. Good for you.
Thank you!
Thanks for the video. I agree the regular one works well most of the time. When I use ripper, I only use one and I treat it like a push block. I mostly use it when ripping thin slices.
Very interesting review. I try to keep it simple. I sometime use two push sticks. One to push the wood thru the blade and keep it down on the table, and the other, when the piece being cut is narrow, to keep the wood against the fence. I did notice that Grr-riper did tend to allow the wood to move away from the fence.
Thanks for the comment James. I often use two sticks also. I feel I have a lot of control doing that way.
Thank you so much for doing this video and this review. My first reaction was “wow, they are huge”. This is a very timely video for me because it is one of the tools that has come highly recommended by someone I really trust, and since as a medical professional safety is always the number one priority, it went close to the top of my list. I’m glad I’m not the only one that’s like every time it looks like I found “the best gripper“, then there’s a next level up. Lol. I don’t know this for sure, but the one that says it has everything they offer, really doesn’t have everything they offer. I will most likely end up getting it, but maybe I will make sure I purchase it from a place that has a very good return policy on the off chance that I don’t like it for some reason. But I anticipate that I will like it. Thank you again.
Glad the video helped Scot! Thanks for watching
Very timely video for me, Mike! I finally ordered one of these on Wednesday and got it today. Been putting it off for a couple of years. I heard the same wonderful reviews on it. Looking forward to using it and seeing if I have any issues getting used to it. All of my push sticks I’ve made myself btw.
Nice! Hopefully it works out! Let us know what you think!
Soo what did you think of it and have you continued to use it?
@@jsully4074 yes. Love it and ordered another one. It’s all they say it is. Great product!
I love mine and will not make a cut without them. So well that I bought 4... 2 full Grr-Ripper for my table saw and router table use and 2 of the simple Grr-Rip Blocks for my jointer. Anything that keeps your hands/fingers further away from the cutter and provides better control is a must IMHO. I still keep a push stick at the table saw, since it comes in useful to "poke" or help control offcuts near the blade. Don't use your hand for that!
BTW and again IMHO... too many people improperly use a push stick on wider stock... by applying it to the workpiece near the fence side. It should be as close to the blade side as possible (within reason) helping to keep the workpiece pressure against the fence on the off cut side (twisting the piece up against the fence). Applying force near the fence side will cause the material to twist into the blade and is a big cause of kick back.
That’s a solid point about the push stick! Glad to hear the grr-ripper works good for ya. Thanks for watching!
Thank you! I bought one with my first table saw and I havent taken it out of the box. The mere thought of reaching over the blade gives me chills. Push is faster and I stay far away from that blade!
Thank you!!!!! Just took this out of my Amazon cart lol you saved me $50 😮 so true, sometimes we try to get too tricky when common sense and patience can do the job!!
Yes, great demo and now I see the limitations. As a weekend DIYer i make it a point to never hang over the blade or stand in the line of fire. Taking off the safety guard makes me extra nervous. Plus you'd need 2 to rip a very long board, and that little dance seems like an opportunity for things to go awry. Definitely having second thoughts about a purchase
I have never seen anyone use them for feeding long pieces, usually the long pieces are fed through by hand and the gripper is used on the last bit to keep hands away from the blade, just like with the push stick. I have also never seen anyone use them with any attachments, seems to be just over complicating a simple tool. I understand your concern for pushing your hand past the blade.
First, I always use a featherboard on rip cuts of longer pieces. Second, I use the gripper to push the workpiece through the cut. Third, I never stand in front of the blade, ever, and as the piece exits the past the blade and the splitter, I put my left hand behind the blade, keeping downward pressure and use only ONE Gripper, that I slide back to continue the feeding of the workpiece.
As a new woodworker with a saw stop I can see your point but as you said you have years of not using it can be odd but I love the safety. I don’t mind taking a moment to make sure I dont cut through it and if things go wrong my hand is far away from the blade. Love your videos keep it up!!!!
Whatever you’re comfortable using that keeps you safe is good in my opinion. Thanks for watching Mario!
I made one myself. As everybody say: best for small items and strips thicker then 6mm or so. Drawback: the contact between the push block and the fance is hidden behind the body of push block, several times I missed to align block properly in case of lumber; you need to peek behind block to check the alignment.
However, it allows some very tricky cuts to be done with ease. Now I use it sparingly with push sticks: choosing one of them which is safer, even both sometimes.
Final verdict after 6 months: definately recommended.
Thanks for watching!
You made some good points, thank you. I bought one for making lots of repeated cuts on my table saw making thin bee frame components- I do think it'll be a great device for my purpose. I'll also use it on the beehive components with my jointer. Lots of repeated cuts so I won't have to make adjustments very often.
These would be great for a lot of repeated cuts or very thin ones. I still use mine but I still struggle. Lol. One day it’ll click. Thanks for watching!
@@ProjectsForAllReviews You know, when I used my Grripper the other day it really didn't grip as well as I expected. I hit my deck with wax and hoping the wood slides a bit better (and the Gripper acts grippier). Otherwise, I'm not happy with the grippiness of the Grripper so far.
I’m a newbie. I just got mine. I’m going to give it a go with my DeWalt as well. Maybe because I’m basically learning with it I may have a better experience. Great video.
Good luck Chris and be safe! Thanks for watching!
I agree with you. I bought one years ago when they first came out. I used it once and it then became a $60 doorstop. It required too much fumbling around to get it set up and then I felt I didn't have good control. I prefer using push-sticks with ALL of the safety guards in place and the occasional feather board. I just don't understand using something like this which, in my case, requires the removal of the blade guard and riving knife. I miss my $60!!
Yup I still have these but use them very occasionally for thin rips. Thanks for watching!
Muchas gracias por su tiempo y por sus comentarios y punto de vista.
Muchas gracias por ver mi video!!
I have the regular gripper and I like it. I use it all the time
great honest review going to watch more of your videos
Thank Richard!
From your review, I think I do need this. I'm cutting small and narrow dense foam and having trouble with it sliding and jumping as I cut.
Really like to solid honesty in this video. I don't think it is surprising that this tool doesn't fit all feed situations on a tablesaw. Seems the use case is smaller pieces but it doesn't look that hard to make for those 'special' small piece applications. Subbed.
I have one and I adamantly agree with everything you said!😊
Thanks for watching Betty!!
I agree. I have never used it because it seems just as you described it. However, I just bought something similar but better and less expensive. Milescraft 3406 GrabberPRO - Push block for Table Saws, Router Tables, Band Saws & Jointers. I got mine for 29.99 on an Amazon sale but it comes built and I am very impressed with the extra weight. They obviously learned from the Gripper and improved it. I am planning on using it for small pieces in the router table but I may just try it on the table saw as well.
I haven’t used the Milescraft but it does look very similar for half the price. I’m still not a fan of this design but if it keeps you safe and you like using it, it’s worth buying. Thanks for watching Craig!
I've had a Grr-ripper clone for a couple of years now & find it really useful. It's just the basic version with the side support. I use it a lot but not exclusively. It really depends on the cut. I'd mostly use it for supporting sheet goods as it has a nice wide grippy bottom, or for more detailed cuts where I want it to hold either side of the blade, with my hands nowhere near those spinning teeth. For some cuts I will use feather boards & a long push stick, others I'll use a wooden boot that I don't mind running through the blade or if I need a bit more heel to push the piece through, and for some cuts I'll just do it by hand. Horses for courses. For some cuts I wouldn't want anything other than the Grr-ripper but I don't see it as my only option.
A very interesting video and it exposes several good points to consider,.
The problems I see on a lot of videos on here is the number of people who do not use a riving knife ( 10 out of 10 to you for your use of one!! ) or hold down fingers and constanty see the timber lifting up off the table and you can also use fingers to push the work against the fence and in my opinion should be used in every operation where possible.
Keep up the informative videos.
I’ve never noticed the lack of riving knife in other ppls vids. I’ll have to watch for that now. Not sure why anyone wouldn’t use one? I never take it out and it doesn’t hinder me in any way. Blade guard and pawl are a different story. Thanks for watching Ralph!
I bought one, with the add-on plate, and you learn quick that longer boards need 2 of these. Of course the add-on plate is ultimately what addresses the issue in your video. For wide boards it's a non-issue but then again wide boards I can safely cut without the jig and if I'm cutting strips I prefer those on the left side of the board. I think it simply helps with safety once you learn to use them well. The real gripe is the price. 2 of these before-tax is around $170. That's a monstrous amount of money for a jig setup that's plastic, screws, and some rubber. Making an equivalent one is just too much effort and time is more important to me. Well, safety first, then time.
Thanks for watching!
I like safety, and I bought the gripper. I never even realized that it was NOT my go to tool until I saw this video and thought about how I personally use my saw and attachments like the gripper and cross cut sled. Like you said, it is complicated enough to notice that it is NOT the "go to tool" as much as I had hoped for.
If you 'like safety' then, of course, you will NEVER use a table saw without the blade guard. So a gripper cannot be used safely.
My dad spent 50 years working as a master machinist, much of it as a shift supervisor, and retired in the late 90s with all of his fingers intact. Then a few years later he cut his hand damned near in half on a table saw in his garage.
Anything that can make using a table saw safer, is at least worth looking at.
Just keeping a sharp blade, and using the right blade for the job at hand, can help avoid a lot of problems.
It always hurts to hear these stories especially when it’s guy who knows what he’s doing. I does serve as a reminder to all of us that the saw doesn’t care how good or experienced you are. The father of a buddy of mine lost a finger to a chop saw in retirement. The best safety equipment is the stuff you’ll actually use. I’m not sold on the grr-ripper yet but I haven’t given up on it. My motorcycle helmet is a good parallel. I use it but it doesn’t make me 😃. Have a great one! Thanks for the comment!!
when I use the basic gripper block, I also allow some gap between the fence and the block to allow me to maintain pressure on the stock, keeping it against the fence...I only have one, so I push, then reposition for the remainder of the cut...couldn't agree more that the "ultra gripper block" seems to be overkill, but each to his own...anyway, I try to use this block as long as it applies to the job at hand
Make sense to me Mark but the instructions tell to keep the block against the fence. I figured for the sake of conversation Id do it the “correct” way. Thanks for watching!
You confirmed my thoughts about drifting away from the fence. Don’t have one because of that and also maybe not having it set exact on running it over the blade and who knows what would happen. I think a featherboard to hold the wood to the fence. One on the fence or a roller setup for downward pressure and a push stick. I think the flat pad version would be good for jointers and router tables, and probably dados and non through cuts on the table saw.
A feather board would definitely help solve that problem even with the gripper or you could use one of the add on plates to hold the wood. As long as you don’t mind the extra setup time it can be done. I didn’t show the flat pad in action but it works just fine and isn’t expensive. Thanks for watching Bob!
Yes - exactly what I've always thought! I don't like the idea of reaching past the blade with one of those things. Especially with your hand being so low. Glad to hear someone else say it. I don't know if it's actually more dangerous. I may even be safer, but it just seems more dangerous to me. It would be good if they kept statistics on this sort of thing. With 60,000 injuries per year, you could get some good data.
I kinda get you. I have two of them and I like them. I do get nervous when using them because you have to expose the blade. I only use them when making narrow ripps. However I also wish I am better at using hand saws. I am getting there little by little. It takes a special person to cut your fingers off with a disston rip saw.
Thanks for the comment Frank. Watch those fingers!
Made some home made grrrrippers and never looked back. Have no issues with wood walking away from the fence and get jointed quality cuts 99% of the time. Another advantage is that the offcut edge is straight (using a pushstick often leaves a step at the end of the cut), so cutting strips is way quicker.
It really wouldn’t be hard to make your own. Cutting thin strips is what these are best at. Thanks for the comment!
Another video was recommending this product. However, after watching your video, I think I'll purchase one of those push sticks that hangs on the back a little, but lays down on the piece. Cost wise, I'm looking at about $9-$10.
Thank you for this!
Glad the video helped you decide Maverick! Thanks for watching!
Their is nothing like the gripper! First one i saw at the wood show! Loved it and bought another one! Best safest tool used bench saw and router tables!
Glad it worked for you. Stay safe!
I have a few small-sized projects coming up and am considering a Grr-ripper to hold smaller pieces of wood to avoid kickback and worse.
Thank you, not sure about those either when you do something for 30 years it's hard to change,. I just make my own. Mine looks like a hand saw on a 2x4. Handle to the back and up high.
I've recently purchased the basic Gripper and the advanced one, Already I doubt I will use all the extras that come with the advanced. I like it for thin cuts. I note with interest when you use the push stick you hold it mostly close to the fence, well I've always been told that can have the tendency to rotate the front of the piece to the left causing it to bind then kick back. I've found the hand over hand technique if followed is quite good with the gripper, early days yet. If the instructional videos are followed I don't see too many issues. If I remember once i've used it for longer I'll get back to you.
Thanks Charles. The vid is a pretty good representation of how I normally use a saw. Thankful over the last 25+ years I’ve never experienced a real kickback with a table saw. I agree the gripper works very well for thin cuts and I’ve continued to use it for that but I still can’t kick my push stick habit. Thanks for watching!
I have been hesitant about buying this because I actually use my blade guard a lot and I am not a fan of removing a safety item so that I can use a push block that is suppose to make the work safer🤨 As you mention I can definitely see the benefit for very thin cuts but I have always made push sticks out of 2x6s which I can just bury in the blade anyway on thin cuts. Thanks for the video.
Thanks for adding to the discussion Aaron!
I have used grippers since I started woodworking. I have tried push sticks and tools but I feel safe on my tablesaw planer and router table.
That’s all that matters Dale. Stay safe and thanks for watching!
I loved; “this… is a whole lot of fooling around to cut a board”.
I call em like I see em….lol. Thanks for watching Paul!
Thank you.
If you keep producing videos like this, its only a matter of time.... keep up the good work.
Thank you!!!
These things are indispensable for certain situations on the table saw, and they are even MORE useful on the router table. But only if you like having all ten of your fingers.
I do like them for small work. Actually dug it out and used it today. Thanks for watching!
When I first saw one I wondered about being able to see if the wood is in position and if it stays in position. Looks clumsy to me, but I feel the same about blade guards. Anything could happen at any time, but I'm 68 and still have all my fingers. I think the more complicated things get the more dangerous it becomes.
I agree with you about complexity Ted! I don’t use the blade guards usually in videos so you can see the saw operating but I’d take a blade guard any day over this. Thanks for watching!
Being a part time woodworker / hobbyist... I always take the safest route possible!!
Big fan of the MicroJig products!!
If that were the case, you would never use a table saw without a blade guard in place. A hand-held piece of plastic is greatly inferior to a fixed blade guard in injury prevention.
5:49 It looks like there should be a small gap left between the right side of the Gripper and the fence, so that any push towards the fence causes the Gripper to push on the work piece and not the fence.
You would think that because it makes total sense. How else would you expect to keep pressure on the material against the fence. But the instructions with the gripper expressly state to keep the gripper against the fence at all times. This problem is mostly the basis for the vid. I get why they suggest doing it. It’s the only way to guarantee when adjusted properly it won’t contact the blade. Just can’t keep the material from walking off the fence. I haven’t given up on this yet. We may revisit this topic at a later time. Thanks for watching!
I've been wanting to get more into woodworking and despite the positive reviews about the grippers I agree with your concerns, during the final push your wrist is sitting 6" above a giant spinning death blade and all it takes is for you to lose your balance and it's going directly into that
Yep. I want to like that thing but still struggling with them now. Thanks for watching!
@@ProjectsForAllReviews It's probably perfectly fine if you have the blade guard on and are doing something wide enough that the entire gripper can go to the side of the blade, better option is probably the JessEm stock guides but those things are expensive AF.
Yeah, that's been my concern with this product. I don't like the idea of putting my hand above the blade... If you are pushing hard, and something slips, it's a trip to the ER.
Exactly what I was thinking. You do get your arm over the blade in the end… I am new to using the table saw and looking for the best safest way to work with it. Your video is helpful to see options..
That could still happen with a push stick but that scenario's made me add 'sweep floor' to the table saw checklist to reduce the slip risk. I am more scared of kickback than I am of passing this tool above a spinning blade after a dry run. I trust my body and the tools geometry. Unlike a push stick this tool maintains positive control, keeping both workpiece and waste piece pressed against the table, which mitigates the risk of kickback.
I noticed you still have all your digits - and you still seem to seamlessly run those pieces with only a push stick. It's the once in a lifetime event I get nervous about (kickback).
Therefore using the accessory plate from Gripper to keep the work piece up against the fence is worth the set up time to me. After all set up is the key to safety and accurracy in our work, even in a production shop.
I do a lot of woodworking in my spare time and will say you aren't necessarily using the grr-ipper incorrectly but you aren't using it to it's full potential. You definitely should use that bottom plate you talk about at the end of the video since it forces the wood against the fence and it only takes a couple seconds to adjust. Also I usually start cuts by hand and use the gripper only for the end of the cut as a safety precaution.
Good tips Kevin!
Ya like he does with the push stick...
I am new to wood work and looking at buying a table saw. But my main concern is the wood lifting and it kicking back. Do you think this pusher would give me more confidence to start?
Possibly. Try different things. Most important is learn how your tools work and how to properly adjust and use them. Also do what ever you need to stay safe. Good luck and thanks for watching!
I used this a lot when I first got it but not anymore. The push stick that came with my saw is now my go to option. The gripper now feels weird when I'm using it.
It never stopped feeling weird to me and I rarely use them. They do come out for ripping thin strips though. Thanks for watching!
I just ordered it and have buyers remorse. I bought it cos it was faster than setting up anything parallel in the track. I know go Kreg.
What about a home made push block with a heel that's sacrificial, just for the final push, and maybe a good feather board like the Bow, which helps prevent kickback, as well, to push the stock against the fence?
Hopefully this one is just as good. Time will tell! Thanks for watching!
You have to put mor grip at fence side, if the stock wide enough slide the sliding shoe to the fence side, or add the adjustable shoe from the set
When i can i use the gripper, i feel more comfortable, and the cut is accurate.
Good point Edi! More green pad on the fence side if possible might help. I’ll give it a try next time Im on the saw. Thanks for the tip!
I'm a fan of the gripper and use it frequently, but not always. For long boards, I will start the cut as you do, just pushing the board through the blade, then grab the gripper instead of a push stick to finish the cut. I have never used the overhand methid with two grippers. I agree, it takes too much time. I will say I have never had a board pull away from the fence when usung the gripper to rip a board. To be honest, I don;t think ai could do it if I tried.
What about using one with a feather board? And I agree, waving my back arm over the blade is awkward feeling… not sure how that is suppose to work…
The addition of a feather board would definitely help but only on boards wider than the gripper. On skinnier boards the left leg of the gripper extends down to the table to help support the gripper. Thanks for the comment!
So I may add, on a job sight saw that may not hold a perfect alignment or less power and you lumber not being perfectly s2s atleast having a slight bow or crook in the board will cause it to walk from the fence and the gripper seems to just be a handful.
IF the wood is "walking" away from the fence when you are using the grr-ripper...YOU are either didn't position the wood against the fence properly or you are turning your wrist and hence the grr-ripper and wood away from the fence. With proper downward, side and forward pressure the wood can't "walk"! Just as you used the push stick at the end...you can use a grr-ipper at the end of the cut as well after hand feeding it
I have one of these, but I rarely use it. I prefer a standard push stick.
I have exactly the same struggle. I want to like the thing since I bought it and it aint cheap but I just can't get use to it. I plan to keep trying but I kinda wish I'd not spent the money.
Bedankt
Bedankt voor het kijken!
It is a year since you posted this video. Sorry if I repeat comments already made. I consider the Gripper to be the 2nd safest tool in my shop, 2nd only to my Sawstop. I never use the Gripper in the fashion you demonstrated. That is, if I have a 3 or 4 foot long board, I only use the Gripper for the last 9-12 inches. That's what you do when you use the push stick! There's no need to use the Grippers for the entire length of the cut. Also, if you have plenty of stock on the offcut side of the blade, by all means, move the center leg of the Gripper to that side. If not, move it to the fence side of the blade and let the narrow offcut slide back at you after the cut is done. It is not propelled like a kickback. Rather, it comes back gently.
I use the GRR-RIPPER for smaller pieces for big I use the stick, I am surprised you are using your Dewalt machine why? don't like The Delta anymore???? great video thanks.
Just putting some mileage on that DeWALT! This was the vid before that saw review. DeWALT went back to its owner. I agree I like the Gripper for small stock and that’s really what I use it for too. Thanks for watching!
I have one of them, I haven't really used it enough to say whether I like it or not. I've used wood push sticks on the table saw for years so these seem weird and way too large.
Your hand was to close for me to be comfortable. You might try the Jessem table saw grippers that have a 5 degree pull tword the fence along with the grippers . Mine are priceless , would not fire up the ts without them . Cheers
I’ve seen those but haven’t used them yet. Looks like a useful product but we’ll get to those eventually. Thanks for watching!
How would you cut repeatable 1/4'' strips with the stock guide? Pretty sure you can't.
That top-down view of your wrist above the blade making the final push with the gripper is terrifying. Imagine slipping at that point, or whatever. Somehow the exposed blade combined with a push stick looks a lot more safe, and that’s coming from a guy who hasn’t operated a table saw yet. It just instinctively looks safer (perhaps I had woodworking ancestors that passed on their woodworking safety genes, lol)
I recently bought a table saw as I’m about to start woodworking, but I’ll skip the gripper and just learn to be safe with a push stick. I’m entirely schooling myself, so there will be a lot of UA-cam binging)
Maybe it is useful when you want to rip for the whole length of a piece, but when your rip cut is just part of the length, you can not see if the blade has reached to the spot that you want to stop ripping (common thing in hardwood flooring)
The Grrrr ripper is on my "You don't need that" list. A simple piece of sacrificial 4x4 with a handle glued on it will do the same without any adjustment, and, when it's to beaten, you just make another one in 5 minutes. UA-cam wants to sell you things.
Excellent review...
Thank you for watching!
what if you had a second fence on the other side with a wheel bearing for easy glide motion, and added a roller just before the blade that could be height adjusted and another roller after the blade that both automatically feed the board thru. if you want an extra safety feature you even add two rods half the thickness of your pinky finger, sit behind the board to prevent any possible kickback.
Why are the Grippers you have seem so large? Or is the video distorted?
I tried these- or rather I made some (3D printing etc - after all I am a maker, why would I buy them) and did not like them at all. Do not like having my hand over the blade, and you have to adjust everything. Instead I looked at the special roller guides with one way bearings that fit to the fence and table to guide the material- and made them of course. Work really well, and your hands are well away from the rotating flesh remover. They push the material into the fence and down to the table (offset bearings) and need a minimum of adjustment.
I’ve seen those roller guides also. Possible future video idea. Thanks for watching!
@@ProjectsForAllReviews See ua-cam.com/video/sPrReVco2Cw/v-deo.html for my build of the downward rollers, and ua-cam.com/video/KvTgbiClvmM/v-deo.html
for my roller side guide.
I think it might be useful when you are ripping very thin stock, but other that that, I'll stick to a stick!
I ripped a bunch with the 1/8 in leg and it’s pretty awesome. It does have some advantages. Thanks for watching Jim!
Two things.
I agree with another viewer saying that this is probably best for smaller pieces.
Also the audio is way more consistent in this video. Wide shot, voice over seems to be the same.
Thanks Bill. Finally figured out the mic situation.
Your main argument for this is a result of you using it wrong! You do not have to have the gripper up against the fence as you are feeding it through, there can be a little gap enough for you to put pressure towards the fence and throigh the cut.
Not to mention with long pieces, you could have just fed it through by hand the same way you did when you used the push stick but instead of using the push stick at the end, use the gripper.
I agree with everything you said. Keeping the block even a 1/16 off the fence allows you to keep pressure against the fence. Here is a copy and pasted paragraph straight out of the user manual on Microjigs website:
“In table saw operations, the GRR- RIPPER 3D Pushblock system must be used so it is in full contact with the rip fence at all times, and the saw blade MUST pass through and without cutting into any part of the GRR-RIPPER .”
For the sake of discussion I tried to follow the manual to a T. I guess not having the block against the fence could possibly give you less control possibly be a safety hazard. Thanks for adding to the discussion!
i just bought one . i almost returned before use, but thinking might keep just for that reason .i find that the end of the board is what i worry about ! at the beginning ,middle, you have total control
It's an expensive yellow toy to trust your hand over the blade. Absolutely agree
My first observation is that that hand over hand motion is causing an issue for you. I use it more like a push stick. Get the cut set up, start pushing the material through the blade as normal and when it comes time (your hand is getting close) then pick up the gripper and push the material. I primarily use the grip block on the jointer and router table. But if your cutting wide enough plywood, then I will use that to keep the work tight to the fence.
I also use some other push sticks for some cuts. They're not appropriate for every cut, but there are some cuts that are safer and more accurate with the Gripper.
Good advise. I find myself only using the grr-ripper for cuts where accuracy isn’t critical. Some use is better than none but I need to find a better technique. Just using it at the end might be the solution. Thanks for watching!
@@ProjectsForAllReviews Yeah give it a try. I am no expert, but I get pretty accurate cuts out of it. Interested in your thoughts on the Dewalt vs the Delta.
DeWALT is pretty sweet. Been filming it this weekend. Watch for it Friday
This is how I find myself using my gripper ... I work the piece through as far as I can safely go, and then use the gripper at the end, like I would a push stick. I especially find it useful when I am making the smallest of cuts where I might damage my push stick.
This is how I use my gripper too. Though, over the past few weeks, I've been using my pushstick more and the gripper less.
I purchased a GrabberPRO BY Milescraft because as a mother of 6, money is tight. The GrabberPRO comes in at half the cost, and comes with the 1/8th" fence. The handle is also tilted, which keeps the workpiece better aligned to the fence.
Thanks for the tip Jackie!
So every test used the same width of cut? Then I would say your tests aren't full coverage. The MicroJig is designed to be reconfigured for the width of cut. If I was ripping the width you showed, i'd used the push stick all day long. Because like you said, it's easy and perfectly safe for the user. I use the jig primarily when I'm trying to rip NARROW pieces. When I can't get a push stick through.
Can't say i've ever had a problem w/ the wood wandering off the fence.
Do agree, I don't like having to lean over the blade more than I'd prefer.
All in all, i'd say it's just another useful tool to keep you safe around the TS. But it's not the end-all be-all solution.
Hello Pete! The cuts I showed where just meant to be an example of the issues Iv had and not a full scale test. I tried using the Grr-ripper for every cut for a while to test for myself because Mircrojig touts it as an end all solution. I agree I have better success using it on small pieces and it does add a good level of safety. Thanks for the comment!
Seems to me that the gripper is better suited for smaller pieces, where you don't have to take it off the piece.
I agree. But they do recommend using two for long boards which is the bulk of what I do. Figured I’d give them a shot. Thanks for watching!!
And over time (have had 4 now), it loses grip and you have to press down harder. Have learned to use strips of high grit sandpaper with sticky tape to help.
Good tip. I hadn’t thought about the longevity of the grip pad!
That plate you disdained on the bottom of the complete set stops the wood from walking.
I dont make a cut without the gripper if at all possible been using them for the last 12 years
Thanks for watching Bill!
RE: Wood moving away from fence. This should not happen. Check that you blade, fence and miter slot are all parallel.
Arm over blade all the way up to elbow. I was observing that in the demonstration and shaking my head. No thank you. Glad you mentioned that afterword.
Some of these products are designed for making $$$. Not for safety.
Think these things will most likely give people a false sense of safety.
I feel you make a legit point. I don’t like putting down safety gear. This just isn’t my cup of tea. Thanks for watching!
I did find a push stick doesn't work for 9mm and 12mm thick wood. It just slips off.
Using whatever works for you and keeps you safe is all that's important in the end. Thanks for watching!
I find the gripper a pain to use as well. A diy block (push stick) so much better
Thanks for review. A lot of YT woodworkers does use this. It seems to be good. But it also seems to be a bit overengineered. While all you need is solid high grip push block - yes, sort of not willing to call it a stick, as that is nothing close to basic push sticks which seems to me more like twigs and also a bit dangerous.
That's why I would rather call it push block .. but whatever .. talking about a bit more massive piece, but simpler to build, then sticks like that plastic one from DeWalt DWE 745 / 7942 table saw.
Talking about blocks like William Ng uses ua-cam.com/video/oKYy4sc02II/v-deo.html .. I like his simpler design a bit more then mine one which resembles old style hand saw handle with high bottom and adjustable/replaceable heel.
The only deterrent for me is the cost. $85 is a little pricey to cut a $3.00 board. Besides what’s the worst that can happen? I loose a finger? I have 9 extra… let’s rock and roll brother!
Thanks for watching!
I've been watching through all your videos on the Delta and Rigid saws and now I see a Dewalt? Basically I am ready to buy a good saw and get rid of using an old one. After watching all your videos and reviews on saws in the 600-1000 price range I was pretty set on going for the Delta but my 2nd place contender is the Dewalt 7491. I guess I'm asking is there a reason you did this video on the Dewalt and not on one of the others?
Hello Kenan! The main reason for the DeWALT in this vid is to get a little more experience with it before its review. That video should drop Saturday. The 7491 is a great saw but very different from the larger contractor saws. Personally I wouldn’t give up the stability, weight and table real estate that the Delta has unless I really need the portability again. Check out the 7491 vid and let me know what you think.
@@ProjectsForAllReviews awesome bud can't wait to check it out! Thanks for the great videos!
not a fan of push blocks, just seems too close to the blade. I use push sticks and feather board
I agree! Thanks for watching!
Now rotate piece you used at 5:20 and try to split it in half without the gripper.
I agree for very small stock the Gripper is useful and helps make the cut safe. That’s not the experiment though. I struggle feeding a long board hand over hand as described by the Microjig user manual. Thanks for watching!
@ProjectsForAllVideos I had to stand behind the fence for that, idk if that is safety issue
I think you’re looking at the tool wrong. It’s practicality is for use in cutting very short pieces of wood that a regular push block or push stick would have great difficulty with. That’s when all of that adjustment allowances pay off. When cutting longer stock as you have tested shows it’s a total overkill. So far I only own the cheap one for use on my router table and don’t cut small pieces of wood on my table saw.
I definitely see your point but the vid was really in response to the manufacturers instructions to use it for everything. I agree for thin or short pieces it really is uniquely good. Thanks for watching!
I absolutely LOVE using my MicroJig GRR-RIPPER. Cannot stand push sticks. **shrug**
Glad it works good for ya! Thanks for watching!
war i see using them would be smaller cut then you are doing. i wish thay would send me two sets
Look like more trouble than they are worth. I guess that's why people make homemade push blocks, sticks. Thanks for the info.
Thanks for watching!
I couldn’t even watch the entire video. I run into the same problems. I also find it actually slips on the wood when trying to feed it through the blade. I also don’t like not seeing the blade. Just makes me uneasy. I only use if I have to make a very thin cut against the fence.
Hello Ken! Since that vid I’ve let the Grripers sit in a box. I have been wondering if maybe I need to press down super hard to improve the slipping. I may dig them out for a second chance. I do like the 1/8 inch leg but don’t need it often. Thanks for watching!
Sharpen your blade and use a riving knife or splitter.
So you say that the plate on the Grripper 200 that hold the work piece to the fence is just unnecessary, and then complain that now “there’s no way” to keep the piece against the fence? Are you trying to gaslight people, or do you really just not understand how to use this thing? When you need this tool, you need it. It doesn’t replace a push stick. And you never place your hand past the blade, whether you’re using this tool or not.