Thanks for this video bro. I have a 2003 mustang V6 with this exact problem and nobody wants to work on it. Now I see it more clearly with your video. I think I could do it myself.
The leak on the passenger side is common because antifreeze is dropping from there when the AC is on. The combination of wet and hot metal causes things to crack.
Yeah, I would agree, mine was because the weld on the headers was bad. It's important to fix those leaks asap though because it can cause burnt valves.
And A1aman Car Repairs, study up on Chrisfix for car maintenance edu., for things like a catchy name, quick and comfy intro, better pov angles, part comparisons, etc. It's a good sight to see someone else using their talents and generational gifts in sync, but build onto it.
@@Idiocrat42 Thanks for the advice will do!! I hope to get some more repair videos up later, usually, I am just too actually film them. Like right now haha, I am just working on my convertible top!
Great video! If you don't have a shop vac, A tip, you can buy a mechanics stethoscope for like 12 bucks and this was able to reassure me that the leak was on the passenger side manifold! The tapping was so prominent, it was making its way up to the valve cover.
Im so nervous of breaking these bolts in the head...i think im going to go to junkyard and practice on some of yhe cars there to get over my fear of breaking it But like you said keep a close eye on the stud when tightening it back on as you dont want to turn the stud with the nut...and backing them off i guess tons of lubricant sprayed on 24 hrs before the job would help too...i also heard before taking them off it is sometimes good to tighten them a touch because it actually helps break up any rust
I wish you made the follow-up video on putting it back on...i guess most important step is to make sure the egr pipes are installed prior because you cant tighten it up with it in the car (i am referring to the piping that connects to the manifold not to the actual egr valve)
mine was a flange leak cause the bolt spacers wont let u tighten the flange all way thats stupid had exhaust blowing from crack in middle and my manifold was leaking a little good video and tips keep it up
Great explanations! Egr valve would of pissed me of lol, ty. I am replacing my manifold with headers, I'm nervous to take the 5mm bolts to the block off.
i would hit it with pb blaster and then some heat, and it should come up with some work. Let it soak and take your time. Worst comes to worst you drill it and tap.
@@a1amancarrepairs964 mine were so rusted I had to heat them with a blowtorch and even then they broke in half rather than breaking loose. And all I have is hand tools
Very nice video. Thank you very much. Can you kindly explain how you managed to change your bank1 sensor 1 o2 sensor? I went down there and honestly... This is so cramped! I can't even put my hand around it! Thanks
Yes, I can make a video about it. But Autozone sells a tool that is specially designed for removing 02 sensors. I believe it a loaner tool as well. I know what you mean, it is extremely cramped under the car. There's another way to change the sensors, not using the loaner tool that is. Basically, it's to drop your front 1/2 of the exhaust system, from the headers to the midsection, but it's easier just to run to auto zone, Orileys, or Advanced auto parts and get the tool. Lastly, the tool you get makes it so you can get a socket wrench on the o2 sensors, it's basically a modified socket. I hope this makes sense, Ill try to get a video explaining it Up tomorrow. Here's a Link to the Tool if you wanna run by an auto shop store and see if they have it available, it may not be because it's a loaner. www.autozone.com/test-scan-and-specialty-tools/sensor-socket/oemtools-oxygen-sensor-wrench-set/272729_0_0
@@a1amancarrepairs964 Thanks a bunch! No pressure for the video, dowhat you like but I do appreciate how you film them and the content so keep them comming!
I got both sides off...man the passenger side is EXTREMELY difficult to remove...nuts are bad enough but with the right tools you can get to them....i think 6 point long flex head ratcheting wrenches are vital.... But i need help...i got it out but i am not looking forward to reinstalling it...driver side slid right out the bottom.. passenger side with that stupid egr tube was so tight coming out...i even unbolted the a/c cimpressor and slid it towards the front
In my case, the exhaust leaks caused my exhaust valve to cool down too quickly. Which basically ended up craking a gigantic hole in the side of the valve. In all honesty, though, I am not entirely sure if this is true, because when I never discovered I had an exhaust leak, a mechanic did. I just didn't want to pay the mechanic for the job so I did it myself, but the mechanic said it was caused because of an exhaust leak.
Is it safe to assume, because the design for the mustangs from 99-04 were almost the same, that what you do to your mustang will work on mine? Yours is an 01 right? Mines an 04, and the engine looks pretty much the same, and both of them are v6. Edit: I should have kept watching for another 3 minutes. You answered my question in the video lol.
Whe would my 01 idling very high and a weird smell ?? In neutral it idles even higher. I changed my iac a couple months ago ... Also I changed my plugs an wires a few months back .. and it lags big time . 176k miles
@@Mmikel-i1q it read misfire 3 I changed my coil pack an it is not misfiring.. I replace my radiator an I don't see anything wrong with my fluids but mechanic said I have a cracked head
One of the worse designs ford made was using metal gaskets along with aluminium heads causes the bolts to vibrate making a lot of problems with manifolds leaking.
Sorry about the late response, probably not, but its possible. Unless your engine was burning oil or coolant and there was a leak, I dont think an exhaust leak would directly cause white smoke. It could be burning something though.
It's a stud. A bolt is the thing you screw a nut ( the haxagon thing with the threaded circle hole in the middle) on to. You shouldn't take stuff apart if you don't even know this basic stuff.
Wow Robert, for being critic about people knowing basic stuff it's kinda weird how you spelled hexagon wrong, check your facts next time before you challenge the master 😂😂😂
Thanks for this video bro. I have a 2003 mustang V6 with this exact problem and nobody wants to work on it. Now I see it more clearly with your video. I think I could do it myself.
Hey no problem, glad you enjoyed it!
The leak on the passenger side is common because antifreeze is dropping from there when the AC is on. The combination of wet and hot metal causes things to crack.
Yeah, I would agree, mine was because the weld on the headers was bad. It's important to fix those leaks asap though because it can cause burnt valves.
Yep just started the leak today!
@@johnreese7352 easy fix
@@hectorramirez9889 just picked up a right angle impact wrench.... So easy
@@hectorramirez9889 also is it normal for the odometer light to go in and out, plastic door trim coming off door, and weird suspension clunks
A very anxious young man, but with great explanatory potential to become the next/new Chrisfix. Thanks for the help A1aman Car Repairs!
And A1aman Car Repairs, study up on Chrisfix for car maintenance edu., for things like a catchy name, quick and comfy intro, better pov angles, part comparisons, etc. It's a good sight to see someone else using their talents and generational gifts in sync, but build onto it.
@@Idiocrat42 Thanks for the advice will do!! I hope to get some more repair videos up later, usually, I am just too actually film them. Like right now haha, I am just working on my convertible top!
Great video. Thank you for sharing
Having a very similar problem, this video makes it all seem much more simple to fix. Thank you keep it up!
Lmao that giggle of danger but good job on describing and showing 👍🏼
Haha thanks for the support man!
Great information man, never really took on a vehicle repair myself but I feel much more confident after your explanation. Thanks for this!
Great video! If you don't have a shop vac, A tip, you can buy a mechanics stethoscope for like 12 bucks and this was able to reassure me that the leak was on the passenger side manifold! The tapping was so prominent, it was making its way up to the valve cover.
Can you just find the leak and use exhaust puddy or jb weld? Just to avoid all this labor?
Love these videos
Thanks so much!
Im so nervous of breaking these bolts in the head...i think im going to go to junkyard and practice on some of yhe cars there to get over my fear of breaking it
But like you said keep a close eye on the stud when tightening it back on as you dont want to turn the stud with the nut...and backing them off i guess tons of lubricant sprayed on 24 hrs before the job would help too...i also heard before taking them off it is sometimes good to tighten them a touch because it actually helps break up any rust
So you took off wgere the egr attaches to the manifold outside the car? Or did the new manifold come with new piping for the egr?
This stuff actually quality 👌
I know right!
Great vid im replacing my manifold with headers and this gave me a good idea on how to get them off
Yo thanks Aidan, this really helped me fix my car!!!
NO PROPS MY GUY
my mustang is doing the exact same thing, im debating getting the better headers though. Thanks for the video, now i can do the job
The ratcheting wrench comes in clutch. Had to go buy them when I installed the BBK ceramic headers on my 02 Mustang V6
ooh yeah for sure, with w/out the ratcheting part taking out the exhaust bolts would take 10 times longer!
I wish you made the follow-up video on putting it back on...i guess most important step is to make sure the egr pipes are installed prior because you cant tighten it up with it in the car (i am referring to the piping that connects to the manifold not to the actual egr valve)
yes, that mustang is long gone now, but i do remember the egr tube had to be connected before installing the manifold unless you had a small wrench
Heads up, the 'header bolt on area' you're thinking of is called the flange
And that tool is simply called a ratcheting wrench 👍
Thanks!
mine was a flange leak cause the bolt spacers wont let u tighten the flange all way thats stupid had exhaust blowing from crack in middle and my manifold was leaking a little good video and tips keep it up
Great explanations! Egr valve would of pissed me of lol, ty. I am replacing my manifold with headers, I'm nervous to take the 5mm bolts to the block off.
i would hit it with pb blaster and then some heat, and it should come up with some work. Let it soak and take your time. Worst comes to worst you drill it and tap.
Thanks Lil brother.
“It’s not that hard to get off. It’s only torqued to 35 ft-lbs” clearly this guy doesn’t live in New England lmao 😂
Love the vid btw was very helpful for me!
@@masonator2526 HAHA, I can only imagine the extra friction caused by the rust XD
@@a1amancarrepairs964 mine were so rusted I had to heat them with a blowtorch and even then they broke in half rather than breaking loose. And all I have is hand tools
Very nice video. Thank you very much. Can you kindly explain how you managed to change your bank1 sensor 1 o2 sensor? I went down there and honestly... This is so cramped! I can't even put my hand around it! Thanks
Yes, I can make a video about it. But Autozone sells a tool that is specially designed for removing 02 sensors. I believe it a loaner tool as well. I know what you mean, it is extremely cramped under the car. There's another way to change the sensors, not using the loaner tool that is. Basically, it's to drop your front 1/2 of the exhaust system, from the headers to the midsection, but it's easier just to run to auto zone, Orileys, or Advanced auto parts and get the tool. Lastly, the tool you get makes it so you can get a socket wrench on the o2 sensors, it's basically a modified socket. I hope this makes sense, Ill try to get a video explaining it Up tomorrow.
Here's a Link to the Tool if you wanna run by an auto shop store and see if they have it available, it may not be because it's a loaner.
www.autozone.com/test-scan-and-specialty-tools/sensor-socket/oemtools-oxygen-sensor-wrench-set/272729_0_0
@@a1amancarrepairs964 Thanks a bunch! No pressure for the video, dowhat you like but I do appreciate how you film them and the content so keep them comming!
Thanks for the help bro
No Problem Man!!
I got both sides off...man the passenger side is EXTREMELY difficult to remove...nuts are bad enough but with the right tools you can get to them....i think 6 point long flex head ratcheting wrenches are vital....
But i need help...i got it out but i am not looking forward to reinstalling it...driver side slid right out the bottom.. passenger side with that stupid egr tube was so tight coming out...i even unbolted the a/c cimpressor and slid it towards the front
When you say burnt valve what are you meaning how dose the vale get burnt from the exhaust leak only want to further understand
The manifold/header will look darker around the area of the leak, it will look different then oil/grime buildup
In my case, the exhaust leaks caused my exhaust valve to cool down too quickly. Which basically ended up craking a gigantic hole in the side of the valve. In all honesty, though, I am not entirely sure if this is true, because when I never discovered I had an exhaust leak, a mechanic did. I just didn't want to pay the mechanic for the job so I did it myself, but the mechanic said it was caused because of an exhaust leak.
Is it safe to assume, because the design for the mustangs from 99-04 were almost the same, that what you do to your mustang will work on mine? Yours is an 01 right? Mines an 04, and the engine looks pretty much the same, and both of them are v6.
Edit: I should have kept watching for another 3 minutes. You answered my question in the video lol.
Whe would my 01 idling very high and a weird smell ?? In neutral it idles even higher. I changed my iac a couple months ago ... Also I changed my plugs an wires a few months back .. and it lags big time . 176k miles
Is it throwing any codes? Could be a MAF sensor
@@Mmikel-i1q it read misfire 3 I changed my coil pack an it is not misfiring.. I replace my radiator an I don't see anything wrong with my fluids but mechanic said I have a cracked head
@@jdmcivic9846 did they say where it was cracked?
Did you fix it? And what was it?
As DIY as it gets
One of the worse designs ford made was using metal gaskets along with aluminium heads causes the bolts to vibrate making a lot of problems with manifolds leaking.
Can a exhaust manifold leak cause white smoke in that area??
Sorry about the late response, probably not, but its possible. Unless your engine was burning oil or coolant and there was a leak, I dont think an exhaust leak would directly cause white smoke. It could be burning something though.
Why is it still loud on my car after installing new exhaust manifold?? Help please
either a leak where the exhaust manifold meets the x-pipe, or or a leak somewhere else in the exhaust system.
2:00 🤣🤣
Thank you tho I fixed my car as well
hahaha!
Hi aidn
who r u
Whats the size of the flange nuts?
You in Georgia 😂 we have the same car i need help
HAHA, I'm in Florida, whats wrong with yours?
I’m in Georgia and having these same problem I’ll be changing it this week.
It's a stud. A bolt is the thing you screw a nut ( the haxagon thing with the threaded circle hole in the middle) on to. You shouldn't take stuff apart if you don't even know this basic stuff.
Thanks for the insight bob!😀😇😇😇😀😇😇😇
Wow Robert, for being critic about people knowing basic stuff it's kinda weird how you spelled hexagon wrong, check your facts next time before you challenge the master 😂😂😂
@@bounkle2404 🤣🤣
Yooo
Aiden I don’t know cars but we stats daddies
8 bolts
Dude you talk to much. Makes you sound like you don’t know what you are talking about. Makes ppl not want to follow your directions.
what