We've had our 2003 LS V8 for 10-1/2 years now and in the last 3 years or so have replaced every cooling component with exception of the DCCV and lower radiator hose...but one of the biggest culprits has been the degas bottle...I've replaced mine twice now and it's usually because the plastic gets brittle over time and the downspout into the hose develops a one way leak when the engine heats up and builds pressure...you won't really see the crack in the spout area but you will see quite the clouding up and it won't look like a leak, but you'll definitely be able to tell because the underside will be spewing coolant on the ground and steam from underneath...one of my bleeding remedies was to put a Prestone purge kit on one of the heater hose lines and it has really resolved my repeated overheating issues that the mfr recommended bleeding was not able to. With the cooling system sealed, I remove the cap from the purge tee, connect my hose and turn on the water to a VERY low pressure, then open the bleed valve, once you have a steady trickle with no more spitting, close off the bleed valve and open the degas bottle to reverse fill your system to the mfr recommended level...that has worked wonderfully for me...I just suspect my DCCV may need replacing as it is the original and has gone through every overheating issue this car has had. mine has just under 100k on the odo and it is paid for, so I intend to keep it for the long run, barring any serious mechanical issues... ...on a different note, I have heard the Jaguar 4.0 V8 is basically identical and uses metal cooling system components rather than the plastic the LS's and Thunderbirds came with, and are possibly interchangeable...personally since all of the Jaguar v8's since the late 90's are based on the same block and heads, I'd like to roll the dice on replacing mine with the powerplant and gearbox from an F-type R to see how that would work...
ur right the main cooling system parts are the same on a regular JAGUAR XJ8 , and those are fairly common too. Id say as long as these engines don't begin to consume oil or coolant, then the rest of the issues are mostly basic maintenance that most older cars have. Ive owned mine since 2009, in all these years I've done two sets of coils(from amazon), one degas bottle( from amazon, doorman), one thermostats(OEM), one water pump (OEM), One DCCV (OEM), one water inlet housing(amazon) and one upper radiator hose t-connector (OEM). On the other hand if you check out my videos on my page Ive also got an original low mileage (50K) 1998 HondaCivic EX, seems to have all original parts, and no issues with it really.
i've had my ls for nearly a decade now and have had to bleed the system many of times. it is a pain and takes awhile but the best method i have found is to let the car idle and when the fan kicks into high speed shut the engine off and slowly(SLOWLY) remove the cap from the degas(overfill) bottle.give it a few seconds to stop bubbling and you can watch the coolant level drop in the degas bottle as it seeps back to the engine. then start car and repeat when the fan kicks into high speed again. has taken me as long as 30 min and doing this literally a dozen times before the air is completly out of the system. any leaks at all in the system and more air will seep back into it while its cooling down so it has to be fixed of any possible leaks before you will get all the air out. hope this helps it sux but i love my car. 2000 ls v8
All is well so far, my daughter has her car back, I drove it around and took your advice and cycled the system, the heater is now working, after I parked it I let it cool down a little and then loosened the degas cap let the air out, I watched it and the coolant level went down, then I would let it run again up to temp and do the same thing again, on the fourth time I didn't get any air and the level stayed the same, so I will keep a check on it for a few days make sure it stays good, so I have dodged the DVVC bullet so far, probably just a matter of time though before it goes out, hope it waits for warmer weather or until I have a garage which ever comes first. Thanks for the help on this thread, it's great to have youtube, wish it was around when I was young, would have saved me a lot of headaches.
On the V8, fill the over flow bottle first. Take off the cap or plug by the thermostat. Pour antifreeze in slowly filling it up almost to the top. Squeeze lower radiator hose slowly pushing air out and sucking antifreeze in. Squeeze upper hose as well, air out antifreeze in. As the antifreeze goes down, add more and repeat the process until all air is out, fill antifreeze to the top, put the plug back on, done!
Thank you bro for this video i have been having problems with this particular cooling system and it has drove me bananas. I was thinking finally a video on this cooling system. Thanks again
Yes I'm still trying to get the air out of the system. I'm still having some issues. My recent part change was the water pump. So far it's the only component that was left to change. And I can't think of anything else to replace. So far I have changed the T-hose, solenoid climate control, thermostat, thermostat housing,reservoir tank, various hose and water pump. As far as coolant I've been using 50/50 antifreeze. If there's anything that I'm missing please shoot me some tips
GREAT WORK ... This is exactly happened on my Lincoln as well... Everything is good coolant tank, but idle is still go high also RPM .... Thanks I’ll try this out ...
this V6 is supposed to idle around 650 RPM. If you get a scan tool with live data it will tell you the actual engine idle speed. IF it idels erratically you might have a misfire or a vacuum leak somewhere.
I have a 2003 lincols ls v8. It's been over heating. I've replaced the water pump, thermostat housing, cap that goes on the housing, & reservoir cap. I'll put coolant in it, and it'll be fine for a little bit. I was driving home tonight and it started to get hot. It was steaming from the reservoir cap. I let it rest, filled the reservoir with coolant(the other cap was still too hot to open). I watched the coolant in the reservoir jug for a few minutes and it would push coolant out and release a lot of bubbles continually.(my car was running). I watched it do that for a few minutes and then it literally sucked everything out of the reservoir jug. I drove home at that point. When I got home I popped the hood and noticed steam coming from the reservoir cap. I looked at the reservoir jug from the side and there was more coolant in it than when i started driving home, which wasn't any because it all got sucked down. I'm not sure what it could be. Please help!
do you know if your engine burns coolant? check the oil cap for any white residue after it has been sitting for a while. On the other hand does your heater work if you cycle it from cold to hot, does it work evenly on both sided? A lot of these cooling issues come from a bad Coolant Control Valve, even if you engine isn't visibly leaking coolant this bad valve will restrict the flow to the heater core and make your engine overheat. And BTW if your engine gets hot you should always run the heater on full heat to funnel some of the heat away, of course if your control valve isn't working then this will not work. Let me know.
The heater works fine. It did run cold but after we replaced the water pump its been working fine. I put the heat on full blast when it starts getting hot. Sometimes it helps and sometimes not. When I park my car and i look under after about 5-10 minutes I can see a tiny puddle underneath the reservoir just but I know it's just when it steams out and runs down.
So it seems your overflow tank is cracked. This is a common issue in these cars, the crack is almost invisible to see and only acts up when the car is warm, its near the base of the tank usually where the hose itself slips on. You should replace that ASAP.
Thanks! I was informed the air was never bled from the system after changing parts so I just got done doing that. I 'll let you know if I have any further problems. I'm replacing the overflow tank just to make sure it's not cracked.
I have a 2003 Lincoln LS V8 my car is starting to overheat running after 15- 20 minutes. I went out and bought the coolant from the Lincoln dealership cost me $16. In video you stay that when you open the valve you have to have the heater on while you are bleeding. I've had a hard time with my AC for some time it was just blowing out Heat when you turn the A/c on. Playing aaround with the a/c it's now blowing out ice cold Air. I think my shutter door is getting stuck.
My heater solenoid never worked and primarily I don't use it because my area is always warm. Does that solenoid play a part in keeping the coolant at correct operating temperatures? I have changed all primary parts such as thermostat, reservoir tank, and various hoses. Minus the solenoid.
yes the dual coolant control valve, (DCCV) is the solenoid that controls coolant flow for the dual zone climate system and the whole cooling system too. Its the thing i pointed out in the video, its a major part of the whole system. I replaced mine too a few years back, cost 400 including labor at a regular shop.
HEY! I'm really glad this helped you out. My own Lincoln as you saw in this video is still running strong! and I have had to do nothing since this correct bleed procedure. Really appreciate the sub, I;ve got some other cool vids o this car btw, and my channel is now mostly gas and nitro RC cars, lol. Anyway, the coolant I used is recommended because it does not have what typically can corrode the inside of the cooling system, sometimes called DexCool, there's multi names for it. I'd say, as long as it runs, you'll be fine for a year or more, just monitor the color and levels of the coolant in the overflow tank.
Man, I've had my LS 10 years, never notice that hose there. It first pushed out 3-4" of old junk, looked like tire slime. I have no heat, still getting air, though may have another issue.
I sort of have one of these, kind of, mines a 2004 Thunderbird. Same platform and same engine. Mine's just a two-seater luxury sport convertible while the LS is a four-seater four-door sport sedan. I think that's what they were going for more than kind of a luxury comfy part but they do kind of have that sportiness to them that makes them fun to drive. Decent little engine, that 3.9 l V8 based off of the Jaguar V8 offered in the XJ8, The Thunderbird/LS AJ-35 3.9 L DOHC V8, was a short-stroke (85 mm) variant of that Jaguar AJ-26 4.0 L V8. The engine was rated at 280 hp (209 kW) and 286 lb⋅ft (388 N⋅m) of torque.
I drive a 2006 Licoln LS V8 .I've done everything you suggested & more but, every time I turn on the A/C it wants to run hot. I don't get it becuase I literally drove the car for 4 days & over 600 miles, day & nights, hwy & city, high speed hwy and in Florida heat, with no change in engine temp. I tried the A/C for the first time after the 600 miles and within a few minutes the temp started going up!! What is going on with this car?!? Please help with any suggestions.
I had a situation like that too, many years ago. After a long highway drive the next time I drove the car it wanted to overheat. My issue was a cracked Degas tank and slightly low coolant. Also I think the DCCV might have been stuck and needed to be replaced. Does your car have a normal coolant level?
The temperature hand on my 2002 LS goes all the way up when I run my a/c, if I'm not running the a/c the temp hand is normal. Any idea what could cause this to happen?
do you have a check engine light or any codes? Does the temp gauge go up when you run just the defroster? Also does your Coolant control valve work correctly and your temp can be changed from hot and cold and all vents? Any of these things can cause extra stress on the system. let me know.
hey man!! You don't open the radiator cap. When you first start bleeding have the overflow(Degas) bottle cap removed. When you see the fluid is starting to rise from the overflow, close the overflow. Meanwhile just monitor your creed valve and have it open. This just makes sure the system is pressurized correctly while you bleed it. Closing the valve is the last thing there is to do. Then let it cool down and just run the car again but only with the bleed valve open.
What a pain, just got finished with my daughters 2002 LS V8, its a nice car but what were they thinking with the coolant system, I just replaced her degas bottle, what fun that was, and all the pipes to the T'stat are plastic, come on plastic, any way she had a heater that got hot and now just cool air coming out, there is still probably air in the system although I did bleed it for about 20 minutes, it got dark and with dark comes cold here, so I figure to bleed it some more tomorrow, but is that why there's no hot air coming out now cause it needs more bleeding? I was bleeding it by turning the heater all the way up and then ever so often opening the bleed screw, seems there are a lot of opinions on how to do it.
did you visually see a slight steady stream of coolant come out of the bleed valve when you were opening it? You should see coolant leak, thats how you know there are no air pockets, or less at least. Have you replaced the Dual Coolant Control Valve? It can cause no coolant to circulate at all even if you got all the air out of the system. Let me know.
Bro how many radiators does a 2002 Lincoln LS have? I just bought one and It has 3 but 1 ain't even hooked up. Does the factory 2002 Lincoln LS V8 have 3 radiators???? Help please!!! 🙏🙏🙏🙏😭😭
Well here we go again, my daughter just got back from a trip out of town, a coil went out when she got to where she was going, so the car started missing a bit, makes the third time that particular coil has gone out I wonder if I am getting crappy parts, and when she got back to town off the interstate, the check trans light came on, the fluid was changed about 2 months ago could it be something simple or is it gonna be the modulator I have heard so much about on these cars, god I hope its a simple fix, but that's not very likely is it.
hey, what do you mean? Your heater always first blows hot then cool? Mine does the same, just raise your temp setting. It's probably when the cabin warms up the auto climate control will automatically lower the heater temp to maintain the set temp. That's how it seems to work with mine.
but some is coming out of the bleed value right?. if some is then you just need to keep it running for a while with the beater on until there is a stead drip coming out. let me know.
I saw a little bit of oil in the resivor tank but the radiator cap was shot it ran good for 20min then I thought I bleed the system but temperature hand started to rise gradually
as you bleed it you have to add more coolant to the overflow tank after. Don't mess with the radiator cap itself, you add it to the overflow tank until it levels out where the fill level should be.
are you sure it was oil? thats not likely. The gold colored coolant these cars use from the original OEM form dealer looks like a clears gold color, kind of like oil itself. The pressure system is pretty robust in these cars and the cap needs to be fully closed and functional, sometimes they leak air, replace the cap as your first step too. If its not sealed correctly it won't bleed correctly either, let me know.
Hello my name is Michael I have a 2004 Lincoln ls v8 3.9 letter the same as on your video I've been having over heating issue today I went to the Lincoln Dealer and perched the antifreeze some as shon I've done everything you have instructed my wife and I went out and it began overheating again Please help
Did you bleed the system? Is your coolant level after refilling around the same level? is it loosing coolant somehow? Do you smell anything that could be evaporating coolant from the system? (usually there is a weird sweet smelling vapor coming out from the engine bay if there is a minor crack in any element). And does your heater color valve work? meaning can you get hot air from the heater and cool air when changing the temp???
So you are saying that you have a leak around the overflow tank? is that right? That would definitely cause overheating because the system would not be pressurized correctly. They usually develop a small crack on the bottom where the hose connects.
PLEASE RESPOND I REALLY NEED YOUR HELP I COULD BE DIGGING MYSELF A HOLE!!!! I have a 2004 Lincoln Ls "THAT I BOUGHT FOR $2200. IM TRYING TO SELL IT FOR $3000" . Runs great no overheating problems. It does only blows hot air through the air conditioning unit I put new freon in it and that did not help, so I think I need to replace the "Dual climate control valve". My hesitation is after reading all of the nightmares that people are having once they open up there pressurize system and trying to bleed it properly they are cars seem to overheat. so I'm wondering if I should just try to sell it with the air conditioning unit like it is. or should I go ahead and change the Dual climate control unit and chance that now I may have some type of Purge problem and it starts to overheat. This car is purely just for making money. I do not want it to become a nightmare!
let me ask you this, do you hear the actually A/C compressor kick on when you turn on your A/C. Even if you replace the DCCV valve (about 400 bucks, with labor), but it turns out the compressor itself is bad then you will be in over 3000 bucks. Most likely your whole system is faulty and has a hole somewhere. Let me know, because if you added R134a freon correctly then the A/C system should still be pressurized independently of the DCCV valve. The DVVC valve only has actually coolant running through it, not freon.
hybrid32494 - thank you my friend for getting back to me. well here's an update. this nightmare is just continuing. I actually held off from doing anything with the coolant or air conditioning system until I heard back from you. but in between that time the transmission indicator light came on so now there's a problem with that. It started to act funny when I put the car in reverse. I tried to see if there was a transmission dipstick but found it was sealed and you had to take it to the shop to get it checked or add more fluid and hopes that that was the issue. So here was a $2,000 car that I was hoping that I can make 500 to $1,000 off of. but now I may have to eat the whole thing. I'm not even sure if anybody would want this car with a transmission problem and air conditioning problem. God damn American cars! I had a huge problem with a Cadillac STS also. Chronic overheating problems. money down the drain (just shaking my head).
BTW the LS V8 does not have a trans dip stick at all. They all have sealed trans units, meaning unless you have physically seen oil leak from it, there is no need to top off any fluids. Your issue is probably the transmission shift solenoid. When does it jerk when you shift to reverse? on a warm engine or cold engine? and make sure to wait for the RPM to fall to under 1000 before you shift at all. Watch my other video here I have literally covered all the issued you have described. ua-cam.com/video/Q_A4j3NASx4/v-deo.html
my dad bought a 2003 ls v8 and its been overheating at first it was fine for a few miles but now it just starts overheating in a few minutes of driving at first we noticed the fan wasnt turning on so he just hot wired it but its still overheating, so then we just removed the thermostat which did nothing... the Degas bottle isnt yellowed and seems to be fine so i dont think this would be the issue, we just got a new water pump so were gonna try that Could the DCCV be bad and be causing this overheating?
hey buddy! You're on the right track. The DCCV in this car is almost always 95% of the problem, for sure. In fact the one in mine was replaced, so it's to be expected. The DCCV is just a solenoid that doesn't open properly and therefore closes the flow of coolant under normal conditions. Something to look at after you bleed it.
What's a dccv? I bought a 2005 Lincoln ls V8 with 91000 miles. Previous owner changed thermostat housing and it started leaking it the cap that's screwed onto it. I drove it home a 15 mile trek and it did fine. This morning I decided to use thread tape on the cap and now it's not leaking but now trying to overheat and a lot of air in system when I was slowly opening the cap after running it to operating temp and then shutting it off and slowly opening the cap. Help us appreciated. I never owned a ls just town cars and grand marquis
@@jasonyoung4890 the DCCV is the dual climate control valve its on the passenger side of the radiator under the canister thing (idk the name of it) I will say that we replaced the water pump, dccv, had the fan hot wired to max speed, and removed the thermostat and it was stilll overheating from what we were guessing was some air in the system we ended up buying a vacuum coolant filler tool (Uview 550000 airlift, its around $120) and after using it it didnt overheat after a 20+ mile test drive It seems this engine does not like any air in it at all
@@redrevo_117 yeah I'm noticing that lol. Previous owner replaced the thermostat and housing with a AutoZone part because last one was leaking. I took it off and then filled it with water and found a crack. I'm curious if this crack will let air into system as well as leak?
@@jasonyoung4890 probably yeah there should be a vent hole i think, but yeah if theres a crack it does need to get replaced and then probably try the bleeding process but i really do recommend using a vacuum filler you may be able to rent one but im not sure
My tank is leaking and there is steam coming from it while i would drive it was okay but when I shut the car off it would all leak out. Is that just a leak in the tank?
Is the steam coming from around the bottom and back of the overflow tank? Usually that is the case (I've had this myself). Just replace the tank, it'll be fine after. Also gotta be sure the cap is tight and sealed well.
are you referring to the the hose that actually attached to the overflow tank itself? Or the smaller one next to it that is used for bleeding? The area area where the overflow tank hose attached is the weak part and where the small cracks form, thats why it seems like the hose is the issue.
Sounds like your actually bleed valve is clogged. Did you use the original Ford Motorcraft coolant? Also are you having any coolant leak issues or low levels of coolant in the system?? And btw you do have a gen 2 V8 model correct?
hybrid32494 sorry for late reply, I opened the bleeder valve and drove with it opened at it starting getting the coolant out fine, plugged it up and it's been working fine, I used zerex yellow coolant, because nobody around me had the motoraft coolant. It is an 03 lincoln ls v8. Same engine. But now I'm having an issue with my o2 sensor and my brake booster and master cylinder
hybrid32494 I replaced the upper radiator hose cause it blew so my engine was overheating after I replaced it due to air in the cooling system but it doesn't overheat anymore which is good, also my a/c gives off a hissing noise since the hose blew
well at least it don't overheat anymore and you bleed it correctly. In terms of the AC issue (I just don't worry about mine, its more work than it's worth to repair these old system, mine quite working about 2 years ago). The O2 sensor is an issue, usually needs replacement. What about the brakes? can you describe the brake issue?
hybrid32494 The brake master cylinder is leaking fluid into the booster, and the booster has a vacuum leak. It's not that noticeable to me except when I'm coming to a complete stop the car sways back and forth
from my understanding many of the off the shelf coolants have DEXCOOL, this Lincoln's cooling system is not designed for it. I would not use it if I were you. The theory is that this dexcool and or other additives in green type coolants will leave deposits in the system over time and clog it up. This orig OEM ford coolant costs a little more, but make sure you use that stuff.
hybrid32494 I didn't know this. So do I drain the system ? My heat works great. I have a small leak on the plastic by the thermostat as well. Every now and then it over heats but goes to normal temps when i turn the heat on. Any idea why it could be over heating ? I'm gonna try bleeding it I just bought it a week ago 05 LS
hmmmm??? I don't think you can bleed just the heater core itself. The whole cooling system is connected and runs through the heater core itself, it seems someone gave you incorrect info (partially correct it seems). This is the case in every car, not just your V6 or my V8 models.
hybrid32494 When you do the process of bleeding the coolant You turn on the heat max and the fan high or low? And do I press the button for inside air or the outside air? I'm not sure if that matters
the air recirculation button does not matter, I always leave mine on fresh outside air BTW. In terms of bleeding, just put it on medium-high fan setting and max heat for about ten min. Then shut it off and repeat two more times, you need several cool down and heat cycles for the process.
mine has been doing this too for the past couple of years. Try putting the heater on and all notice the fans will quiet down. Otherwise I have been unable to fix the fans, but mine are not always running loudly, only sometimes. although car is not overheating, it seems fine.
my lincoln ls 05 v8 is overheating on me, leaking coolant left side (drivers side) tire replaced T-stat. still happenes but rolls fine with heater on full blast and no over heating, any body fixed this problem?
Mine 04 does the samething even with the fan on blast. I looked in a lincoln forum and they said to repalce all of the coolant system parts, hose, and bleed it. I will keep you posted.
are you using the heat on with the fan? BTW this particular car in the video has all new original FORD parts replaced at the dealership including water pump and radiator and some hoses. IT's been doing this even after the repairs, luckily for me FORD didn't charge me anything after a long feud with them since the issue has not gone away. My coolant system has been bleed by them and me a few times, and no coolant is evaporating or leaking. Still a mystery. Only thing I can think of is that once the Alum block has had any minor coolant or overheating issue It's over for it. Its fully drivable and reliable but the damn fans run alot.
yes, the most important thing is to bleed the car with it running, the heater on high, max heat for 5-10 minute intervals. Does your bleed valve work? If it works then the Degas bottle has to be closed. Let me know..
hey! Hard to say, do you have any issues with heating and cooling right now? like does you ac work and blows hot and cold air fine? If the HVAC system works fine then you don't need to worry.
hybrid32494 My other suggestions that I have is could possibly be the mechanic only used the dex antifreeze and then I turned around and purchased concentrated from dealership and only added to coolant jug when it was low????
And as well when I do turn off n heater the ac blows on the cold when it’s high heat then starts to blow hot air heater core has been replaced when new motor was put in.????
generally NO. Although typical antifreeze tends to have DEXCOOL which can gum up the system. That is the main rationale why to use only this original coolant. Many people have run regular coolant and they usually have similar problems anyway. I stick to this one because it's only a little more expensive.
OK thank you. I bought a gasket maker had it put on. I turned the car on and antifreeze started to come out of the vacum hole. I just went and bought the gasket itself. I can still re use the the thermostat if I take it out.
hi. I have the same car. I noticed that air was coming out of the coolant container on top. So I turned the cap a little and the noise stopped. Then a couple days later, for the first time the car started to over heat. So I towed it home. I'm not sure if I did something wrong by tightening the cap. I looked throughout the engine to see if I could see a leak and I saw a small leak coming from a part or hose in front of the housing unit where it goes into the block. I'm guessing. But I noticed the coolant is green when I heard u say yellow and it says on the caps also. what should I do?
Yes you def have to use not green coolant, at this point if you have not had other overall cooling issues until you messed with the cap, then Id say keep putting in what you used before. Otherwise sounds like you need a new reservoir cap, they are highly pressurized and if any leaks exist then you will always have air in the system and air bubbles, try too bleed it after you fix the cap and possible leak. The theory is that this car is not designed to be used with DEXCOOL (usually in all green and universal coolants).
hey bro! Glad to have you here for the RC Action! My channel has evolved into mostly RC only. BTW, I still have tis car, it's stick Kicking AS*, you can sometimes see me driving it in my vids.
most likely it is. That dccv is an actual valve that opens and closes the coolant flow itself. If it is stuck closed then the heater core will not get any of the hot coolant from the system. I replaced my DVVC around 4 years ago, no problems since.
Could you help me out. I have a 2004 lincoln ls v8 my car randomly heats up i had the mechanics check the car they couldn't find what was wrong with it. i pour fluids in the car seems to ru. for a few days then its back to overheating help??
are you checking the fluild levels? are they actually being leaked out after you pour them in or do you have a head gasket leak causing your coolant to be burned by the motor. Check the top of your oil cap to see if it has any white residue, if it does then you know your coolant is mixing with the fuel and being burned. let me know.
hybrid32494 The fluid level goes down once the car starts to over heat. There is no residue anywhere i did have a leak last week had the mechanics take a look at the car but couldn't find any leaks from anywhere on the car i showed them specifically where and they couldn't find anything
Do you notice any smells typical of hot leaked antifreeze? its possible that it is only slightly evaporating from any of the bad molded plastic pieces in the cooling system. I had that before near the top t fitting near the radiator hose. You will not see physical leaks but it did smell. Did you check the oil cap for white residue? this is the only place you will see this because it is the highest point of your engine and coolants tends to settle there itself.
the fans are original as far as I know, Both work fine and turn on appropriately it seems. I have not bleed it frequently because I really don't want to add coolant after to the overflow tank, this will likely cause more issues with the cap comping off due to the high pressure there. My damn 98 civic EX or Acura integration GSR never has any coolant pressure or air bubbles, LOL..
hybrid32494 hmm not really sure I understand why you are so averse to adding more coolant? because by opening the cap it weakens it is that what your saying?
YEs, thats what I'm saying. Every time you open the coolant cap it lets more air in and pressure out, Thats a big issue on these cars. In my opinion os far as long as the car isn't loosing coolant or overheating I can deal with it.
Your 2002 model has a different cooling system than the one in my video here. The Gen 1 model which is 2000-2002 do not have the same cooling components and bleed process because they do not have electric fans and use hydraulic pumps instead (basically more complicated). Look up some info on the hydraulic fan pump cooling components themselves. Good luck..!!
Hey buddy, you would need exactly the same amount of distilled water as the coolant you’re adding. The goal is to have a 50% dilution rate. Considering how much of the coolant you’re adding that will be the same amount of distilled water you’re adding.
Check it out, good ole dad has replaced all 4 O2 sensors, all the spark plug coils the T'stat, had to buy a new T'stat cap cause the old one was on there so tight it cracked when I took it off, good ole plastic, the water pump and air flow sensor and the serpentine belt, I know about the DCCV and how they will go bad, but I thought sense the heater was working before I changed the degas tank that I had chance that it's not the DCCV, I got a steady stream but I don't know if I have replaced all the coolant, a lot came out when I took that bottom hose off, I will find out tomorrow if that is the prob, if not then it very well could be the DCCV, god I hope not, thanks for the vid and the reply, I shall see tomorrow and jump back on here and let you know, thanks again.
ok good luck, the whole youtube Lincoln LS community needs to know, lol. Did you try checking to see if the DCCV works by Turing the heater on all the way and then just to cold air circulation? all the vents should have the same temperature and it should take under 10 seconds to change from hot to cold, this would indicate the DCCV works.
So far all I did was let the car get up to running temp and turned on the heater to the highest temp along with the fans while I bled it with the bleed screw, did that for about 20 minutes, turned off the car and let it cool down and topped off the degas bottle and called it a night, gonna be driving it early in the morning and do some more air bleeding, I'll try turning it from hot to cold and see if it changes, man I hope the DCCV is ok!!
so far u did well. But you def gotta cycle the DCCV with the hot to cold function, and make sure the stupid DUAL zone feature is off. Im pretty sure after using the dual zone twice mine broke right after that.
hey dude! For this particular video I did not flush the radiator, but it was done previously by the FORD/LINCOLN dealership. Although I will tell you that without the proper bleeding process flushing the radiator would usually cause more air bubbles in the system anyway.
hybrid32494 - My heater works fine, but I noticed steam from the left side of my hood (driverz pov), I bleed it and it laztz about a week then it’ll steam again and I need to add more coolant.
if you have steam coming from the upper left side (drivers side) that is most likely a crack in the overflow (Degas) tank. They commonly form a hairline crack that expands when the coolant gets hot, this will cause the system to not be fully pressurized and you will ofcourse loose coolant. Check the tank.
hybrid32494 - So if I buy another tank, what if my coolant stays hot again right after replacement, will it cause another crack? Do you think this will fix the “no-flow” of coolant I get while I try to bleed out the air?
it sounds like your heater core is blocked (possibly from old gummed up coolant in the lines). The 2001 model AKA the first ten he's a hydraulic fan pump and the system is quite diff from this model in the video. Do you have enough coolant is the system is the first question?
about 8 months ago had to replace the radiator,changed the thermostat and all the hoses an overflow tank,had to play with hoses a while but finally got the systemed bled an has run fine till last week but now just can't seem to get the air out and it keeps overheating.
How is your coolant level? is it in the normal range? I think these DCCV valves function poorly and they cause low coolant circulation even when there is no air in the system or leaks.
there isn't one. All the V8 models have a sealed transmission case. You cannot check the oil like you normally would. Are you having shifting problems?
in these cars the most common issue with the trans slippage or hard shifting is from a bad shift solenoid. Do you have any codes on your Dash LCD display?
They also have a poorly designed servo made of steel that moves in and out of a bore hole in the transmission case which is unfortunately made of aluminum. The servo shaves away at the bore hole until it's too wide to function properly and then you have problems with transmission getting stuck while in drive gear. Solenoids are a problem on '03 model but should be solved by late '04 model.
After replacing those plastic parts that were leaking (the one you pointed out), I had a dickens of a time bleeding my LS V8. Before I got the bleeding done right, the car would get very hot and the aux. fan would start blowing. (car sounded like a jet taking off). That little rubber bleed thingy is useless IMHO. I ended up getting one of those bleed buckets that sits on top of the radiator. I ran the engine with the bleed bucket and it bubbled for about 40 minutes! No kidding. That finally fixed the 'air in cooling system' scenario. Here is a link to buy one of those buckets: www.amazon.com/Lisle-24610-Spill-Free-Funnel/dp/B001A4EAV0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1471191050&sr=8-1&keywords=bleed+buckets Nice vid. Thanks
BTW mine still has the high fan speed issue when it idles, even after bleeding it a few times. Ive also noticed that half the radiator stays much cooler one one side and hot on the other. This car has a a new radiator, water pump, water inlet, and thermostat replaced two years ago. The temp does not go up above normal but the fans run very high at times, especially with the heater off. IT must still have air in the system? do you think?
Oh Dude! You need the bucket! That engine literally has to bubble out of that bucket for 30 to 40 minutes! I could not believe how much air was trapped in that engine.
The bucket is a temporary vessel for coolant. First find the appropriate cap parts that came with bucket. My 05 V8 did not have a great match. I had to find the closest match and MAKE it work. I don't recall how I did that. Then mount the bucket on top, fill about 1/4 full, turn on the heater and start the engine. As it gets hot, the level of coolant will expand and lots of bubbles will escape. The main thing is, don't let the level of coolant drop so that air gets in! On the other hand, you don't want too much so that it spills out of the bucket. As I stated, it took quite awhile for the bubbles to stop. Lots of air in there. Just let it run until you see no more bubbles. Then shut down the engine and watch it and make sure it does not suck air during the cooling process. When its sufficiently cooled, stick the rod that came with the bucket in there to block off the remaining coolant. Remove the bucket and remaining coolant, replace the cap with the normal cap and test! I have owned my car for about 8 years and have never heard that high speed fan come on through all kinds of travel. The ONLY time it ever came on was when I had all the air in the cooling system. Good luck, you can do it!
If your heater does not work it can mean that it's clogged. The whole cooling system has to be clear and pressurized for the bleed to work. Are you ok on the coolant level? and the heater just isn't hot?
hey bro! Chances are they also didn't BLEED the system at all. The bleed process takes a while and like 2-3 times on this car. Try this bleed process. But ye man, you really do need that original GOLD Motorcraft coolant.
sure!!! I still got some coolant left from years ago when I made this video, ahahah. Actually don't even need a top up yet. Amazon sells this stuff for 25 a gallon, terrific deal btw.
updated video, with me actually adding coolant.
ua-cam.com/video/f26QV51gFaw/v-deo.html
We've had our 2003 LS V8 for 10-1/2 years now and in the last 3 years or so have replaced every cooling component with exception of the DCCV and lower radiator hose...but one of the biggest culprits has been the degas bottle...I've replaced mine twice now and it's usually because the plastic gets brittle over time and the downspout into the hose develops a one way leak when the engine heats up and builds pressure...you won't really see the crack in the spout area but you will see quite the clouding up and it won't look like a leak, but you'll definitely be able to tell because the underside will be spewing coolant on the ground and steam from underneath...one of my bleeding remedies was to put a Prestone purge kit on one of the heater hose lines and it has really resolved my repeated overheating issues that the mfr recommended bleeding was not able to. With the cooling system sealed, I remove the cap from the purge tee, connect my hose and turn on the water to a VERY low pressure, then open the bleed valve, once you have a steady trickle with no more spitting, close off the bleed valve and open the degas bottle to reverse fill your system to the mfr recommended level...that has worked wonderfully for me...I just suspect my DCCV may need replacing as it is the original and has gone through every overheating issue this car has had. mine has just under 100k on the odo and it is paid for, so I intend to keep it for the long run, barring any serious mechanical issues...
...on a different note, I have heard the Jaguar 4.0 V8 is basically identical and uses metal cooling system components rather than the plastic the LS's and Thunderbirds came with, and are possibly interchangeable...personally since all of the Jaguar v8's since the late 90's are based on the same block and heads, I'd like to roll the dice on replacing mine with the powerplant and gearbox from an F-type R to see how that would work...
ur right the main cooling system parts are the same on a regular JAGUAR XJ8 , and those are fairly common too. Id say as long as these engines don't begin to consume oil or coolant, then the rest of the issues are mostly basic maintenance that most older cars have. Ive owned mine since 2009, in all these years I've done two sets of coils(from amazon), one degas bottle( from amazon, doorman), one thermostats(OEM), one water pump (OEM), One DCCV (OEM), one water inlet housing(amazon) and one upper radiator hose t-connector (OEM).
On the other hand if you check out my videos on my page Ive also got an original low mileage (50K) 1998 HondaCivic EX, seems to have all original parts, and no issues with it really.
hybrid32494 anti thift alarm how reset
i've had my ls for nearly a decade now and have had to bleed the system many of times. it is a pain and takes awhile but the best method i have found is to let the car idle and when the fan kicks into high speed shut the engine off and slowly(SLOWLY) remove the cap from the degas(overfill) bottle.give it a few seconds to stop bubbling and you can watch the coolant level drop in the degas bottle as it seeps back to the engine. then start car and repeat when the fan kicks into high speed again. has taken me as long as 30 min and doing this literally a dozen times before the air is completly out of the system. any leaks at all in the system and more air will seep back into it while its cooling down so it has to be fixed of any possible leaks before you will get all the air out. hope this helps it sux but i love my car. 2000 ls v8
and you need to top off the degas bottle to the fill line ocasional as you do this.
Do you still need to use the little bleeder valve while doing this?
All is well so far, my daughter has her car back, I drove it around and took your advice and cycled the system, the heater is now working, after I parked it I let it cool down a little and then loosened the degas cap let the air out, I watched it and the coolant level went down, then I would let it run again up to temp and do the same thing again, on the fourth time I didn't get any air and the level stayed the same, so I will keep a check on it for a few days make sure it stays good, so I have dodged the DVVC bullet so far, probably just a matter of time though before it goes out, hope it waits for warmer weather or until I have a garage which ever comes first. Thanks for the help on this thread, it's great to have youtube, wish it was around when I was young, would have saved me a lot of headaches.
glad that worked for you. We all gotta keep our Lincolns alive for as long as we can because any modern Lincoln is just a rebranded ford.
On the V8, fill the over flow bottle first. Take off the cap or plug by the thermostat. Pour antifreeze in slowly filling it up almost to the top. Squeeze lower radiator hose slowly pushing air out and sucking antifreeze in. Squeeze upper hose as well, air out antifreeze in. As the antifreeze goes down, add more and repeat the process until all air is out, fill antifreeze to the top, put the plug back on, done!
VERY HELPFUL! Thank you for posting! This really helped me out a lot with my Lincoln
hey!!, glad to help, thanks for watching.
Thank you bro for this video i have been having problems with this particular cooling system and it has drove me bananas. I was thinking finally a video on this cooling system. Thanks again
have you tried the bleed process? any luck so far?
Yes I'm still trying to get the air out of the system. I'm still having some issues. My recent part change was the water pump. So far it's the only component that was left to change. And I can't think of anything else to replace. So far I have changed the T-hose, solenoid climate control, thermostat, thermostat housing,reservoir tank, various hose and water pump. As far as coolant I've been using 50/50 antifreeze. If there's anything that I'm missing please shoot me some tips
I'm curious are using the original Gold colored motorcraft coolant? The OEM coolant is very important for these cars.
New radiator unfortunately man, will run hundreds.
GREAT WORK ...
This is exactly happened on my Lincoln as well...
Everything is good coolant tank, but idle is still go high also RPM ....
Thanks I’ll try this out ...
ohhhh one time thing,
what about the idle gases ??
Where supposed to stay on at ??
this V6 is supposed to idle around 650 RPM. If you get a scan tool with live data it will tell you the actual engine idle speed. IF it idels erratically you might have a misfire or a vacuum leak somewhere.
Wow, freeze protection down to 34 degrees F? High performance stuff.
I have a 2003 lincols ls v8. It's been over heating. I've replaced the water pump, thermostat housing, cap that goes on the housing, & reservoir cap. I'll put coolant in it, and it'll be fine for a little bit. I was driving home tonight and it started to get hot. It was steaming from the reservoir cap. I let it rest, filled the reservoir with coolant(the other cap was still too hot to open). I watched the coolant in the reservoir jug for a few minutes and it would push coolant out and release a lot of bubbles continually.(my car was running). I watched it do that for a few minutes and then it literally sucked everything out of the reservoir jug. I drove home at that point. When I got home I popped the hood and noticed steam coming from the reservoir cap. I looked at the reservoir jug from the side and there was more coolant in it than when i started driving home, which wasn't any because it all got sucked down. I'm not sure what it could be. Please help!
do you know if your engine burns coolant? check the oil cap for any white residue after it has been sitting for a while. On the other hand does your heater work if you cycle it from cold to hot, does it work evenly on both sided? A lot of these cooling issues come from a bad Coolant Control Valve, even if you engine isn't visibly leaking coolant this bad valve will restrict the flow to the heater core and make your engine overheat. And BTW if your engine gets hot you should always run the heater on full heat to funnel some of the heat away, of course if your control valve isn't working then this will not work. Let me know.
The heater works fine. It did run cold but after we replaced the water pump its been working fine. I put the heat on full blast when it starts getting hot. Sometimes it helps and sometimes not. When I park my car and i look under after about 5-10 minutes I can see a tiny puddle underneath the reservoir just but I know it's just when it steams out and runs down.
So it seems your overflow tank is cracked. This is a common issue in these cars, the crack is almost invisible to see and only acts up when the car is warm, its near the base of the tank usually where the hose itself slips on. You should replace that ASAP.
Thanks! I was informed the air was never bled from the system after changing parts so I just got done doing that. I 'll let you know if I have any further problems. I'm replacing the overflow tank just to make sure it's not cracked.
Tabatha Rinault did that do the trick
So the DCCV can cause engine overheating issues? I thought it was strictly for the heater core and the heat to blow hot and ac to blow cold
I have a 2003 Lincoln LS V8 my car is starting to overheat running after 15- 20 minutes. I went out and bought the coolant from the Lincoln dealership cost me $16. In video you stay that when you open the valve you have to have the heater on while you are bleeding. I've had a hard time with my AC for some time it was just blowing out Heat when you turn the A/c on. Playing aaround with the a/c it's now blowing out ice cold Air. I think my shutter door is getting stuck.
Great tutorial.
thanks!!!. A very useful thing to know with these cars it seems.
Thanks this video helped a lot!
glad this helped. thanks for watching btw.
I hear some gurgling under my dash that I think is caused by a small leak. Could opening that valve and blowing the heater help that at all?
I have creamy milkshake lookin stuff in mine like oil got in my coolant so I have to bleed her to see if that’s the problem 😶😶
My heater solenoid never worked and primarily I don't use it because my area is always warm. Does that solenoid play a part in keeping the coolant at correct operating temperatures? I have changed all primary parts such as thermostat, reservoir tank, and various hoses. Minus the solenoid.
yes the dual coolant control valve, (DCCV) is the solenoid that controls coolant flow for the dual zone climate system and the whole cooling system too. Its the thing i pointed out in the video, its a major part of the whole system. I replaced mine too a few years back, cost 400 including labor at a regular shop.
you could get it on amazon for much less,
Gonna give it a try. Thanks a lot!
My husband tried this is and it worked so thanks I just subscribed! We used a different coolant though. Does that matter?
HEY! I'm really glad this helped you out. My own Lincoln as you saw in this video is still running strong! and I have had to do nothing since this correct bleed procedure. Really appreciate the sub, I;ve got some other cool vids o this car btw, and my channel is now mostly gas and nitro RC cars, lol. Anyway, the coolant I used is recommended because it does not have what typically can corrode the inside of the cooling system, sometimes called DexCool, there's multi names for it. I'd say, as long as it runs, you'll be fine for a year or more, just monitor the color and levels of the coolant in the overflow tank.
buen dia como reviso aceite de tansmision automatica de lincon ls 2001 ya que no le encuentro la bayoneta. gracias.
Great vid bro 👌🏾
hey buddy!!, thanks.
Man, I've had my LS 10 years, never notice that hose there. It first pushed out 3-4" of old junk, looked like tire slime.
I have no heat, still getting air, though may have another issue.
I sort of have one of these, kind of, mines a 2004 Thunderbird. Same platform and same engine. Mine's just a two-seater luxury sport convertible while the LS is a four-seater four-door sport sedan. I think that's what they were going for more than kind of a luxury comfy part but they do kind of have that sportiness to them that makes them fun to drive. Decent little engine, that 3.9 l V8 based off of the Jaguar V8 offered in the XJ8, The Thunderbird/LS AJ-35 3.9 L DOHC V8, was a short-stroke (85 mm) variant of that Jaguar AJ-26 4.0 L V8. The engine was rated at 280 hp (209 kW) and 286 lb⋅ft (388 N⋅m) of torque.
I drive a 2006 Licoln LS V8 .I've done everything you suggested & more but, every time I turn on the A/C it wants to run hot. I don't get it becuase I literally drove the car for 4 days & over 600 miles, day & nights, hwy & city, high speed hwy and in Florida heat, with no change in engine temp. I tried the A/C for the first time after the 600 miles and within a few minutes the temp started going up!! What is going on with this car?!? Please help with any suggestions.
I had a situation like that too, many years ago. After a long highway drive the next time I drove the car it wanted to overheat. My issue was a cracked Degas tank and slightly low coolant. Also I think the DCCV might have been stuck and needed to be replaced. Does your car have a normal coolant level?
The temperature hand on my 2002 LS goes all the way up when I run my a/c, if I'm not running the a/c the temp hand is normal. Any idea what could cause this to happen?
do you have a check engine light or any codes? Does the temp gauge go up when you run just the defroster? Also does your Coolant control valve work correctly and your temp can be changed from hot and cold and all vents? Any of these things can cause extra stress on the system. let me know.
I chanced the thermostat and it's still running hot what do you suggest I do your help will be much appreciated
My 02 lincoln ls is stalling in gear and while at stops. Idk why could you help me
When bleeding, do I open the reservoir cap and the bleeding valve?
hey man!! You don't open the radiator cap. When you first start bleeding have the overflow(Degas) bottle cap removed. When you see the fluid is starting to rise from the overflow, close the overflow. Meanwhile just monitor your creed valve and have it open. This just makes sure the system is pressurized correctly while you bleed it. Closing the valve is the last thing there is to do. Then let it cool down and just run the car again but only with the bleed valve open.
What a pain, just got finished with my daughters 2002 LS V8, its a nice car but what were they thinking with the coolant system, I just replaced her degas bottle, what fun that was, and all the pipes to the T'stat are plastic, come on plastic, any way she had a heater that got hot and now just cool air coming out, there is still probably air in the system although I did bleed it for about 20 minutes, it got dark and with dark comes cold here, so I figure to bleed it some more tomorrow, but is that why there's no hot air coming out now cause it needs more bleeding? I was bleeding it by turning the heater all the way up and then ever so often opening the bleed screw, seems there are a lot of opinions on how to do it.
did you visually see a slight steady stream of coolant come out of the bleed valve when you were opening it? You should see coolant leak, thats how you know there are no air pockets, or less at least. Have you replaced the Dual Coolant Control Valve? It can cause no coolant to circulate at all even if you got all the air out of the system. Let me know.
Bro how many radiators does a 2002 Lincoln LS have? I just bought one and It has 3 but 1 ain't even hooked up.
Does the factory 2002 Lincoln LS V8 have 3 radiators????
Help please!!! 🙏🙏🙏🙏😭😭
Well here we go again, my daughter just got back from a trip out of town, a coil went out when she got to where she was going, so the car started missing a bit, makes the third time that particular coil has gone out I wonder if I am getting crappy parts, and when she got back to town off the interstate, the check trans light came on, the fluid was changed about 2 months ago could it be something simple or is it gonna be the modulator I have heard so much about on these cars, god I hope its a simple fix, but that's not very likely is it.
Oh yea, the degas bottle I just changed is doing fine, no problems.
Do you think low coolant would cause the heater to blow hot, then cold?
hey, what do you mean? Your heater always first blows hot then cool? Mine does the same, just raise your temp setting. It's probably when the cabin warms up the auto climate control will automatically lower the heater temp to maintain the set temp. That's how it seems to work with mine.
@@hybrid32494 No, I mean on long trips, it gets hot then cold without changing the setting.
Does it stay cool even with the temp setting on the highest setting? Mine will also lower the temp automatically unless I set it to max temp heat.
Super helpful
thanks buddy! Hope this helped you out.
if I don't have a steady stream out the bleeding hose what should I do
but some is coming out of the bleed value right?. if some is then you just need to keep it running for a while with the beater on until there is a stead drip coming out. let me know.
I saw a little bit of oil in the resivor tank but the radiator cap was shot it ran good for 20min then I thought I bleed the system but temperature hand started to rise gradually
as you bleed it you have to add more coolant to the overflow tank after. Don't mess with the radiator cap itself, you add it to the overflow tank until it levels out where the fill level should be.
are you sure it was oil? thats not likely. The gold colored coolant these cars use from the original OEM form dealer looks like a clears gold color, kind of like oil itself. The pressure system is pretty robust in these cars and the cap needs to be fully closed and functional, sometimes they leak air, replace the cap as your first step too. If its not sealed correctly it won't bleed correctly either, let me know.
Hello my name is Michael I have a 2004 Lincoln ls v8 3.9 letter the same as on your video I've been having over heating issue today I went to the Lincoln Dealer and perched the antifreeze some as shon I've done everything you have instructed my wife and I went out and it began overheating again Please help
Did you bleed the system? Is your coolant level after refilling around the same level? is it loosing coolant somehow? Do you smell anything that could be evaporating coolant from the system? (usually there is a weird sweet smelling vapor coming out from the engine bay if there is a minor crack in any element). And does your heater color valve work? meaning can you get hot air from the heater and cool air when changing the temp???
hybrid32494 I just looked under the car and shaw liquid from were the overflow tank is I just replaced the one before putting in the know
I would also like to know we're the bleeder nozzle is attached is it supposed to be open our closed
So you are saying that you have a leak around the overflow tank? is that right? That would definitely cause overheating because the system would not be pressurized correctly. They usually develop a small crack on the bottom where the hose connects.
hybrid32494 yes I'll check again and well get back to you thanks
PLEASE RESPOND I REALLY NEED YOUR HELP I COULD BE DIGGING MYSELF A HOLE!!!! I have a 2004 Lincoln Ls "THAT I BOUGHT FOR $2200. IM TRYING TO SELL IT FOR $3000" . Runs great no overheating problems. It does only blows hot air through the air conditioning unit I put new freon in it and that did not help, so I think I need to replace the "Dual climate control valve". My hesitation is after reading all of the nightmares that people are having once they open up there pressurize system and trying to bleed it properly they are cars seem to overheat. so I'm wondering if I should just try to sell it with the air conditioning unit like it is. or should I go ahead and change the Dual climate control unit and chance that now I may have some type of Purge problem and it starts to overheat. This car is purely just for making money. I do not want it to become a nightmare!
let me ask you this, do you hear the actually A/C compressor kick on when you turn on your A/C. Even if you replace the DCCV valve (about 400 bucks, with labor), but it turns out the compressor itself is bad then you will be in over 3000 bucks. Most likely your whole system is faulty and has a hole somewhere. Let me know, because if you added R134a freon correctly then the A/C system should still be pressurized independently of the DCCV valve. The DVVC valve only has actually coolant running through it, not freon.
hybrid32494 - thank you my friend for getting back to me. well here's an update. this nightmare is just continuing. I actually held off from doing anything with the coolant or air conditioning system until I heard back from you. but in between that time the transmission indicator light came on so now there's a problem with that. It started to act funny when I put the car in reverse. I tried to see if there was a transmission dipstick but found it was sealed and you had to take it to the shop to get it checked or add more fluid and hopes that that was the issue. So here was a $2,000 car that I was hoping that I can make 500 to $1,000 off of. but now I may have to eat the whole thing. I'm not even sure if anybody would want this car with a transmission problem and air conditioning problem. God damn American cars! I had a huge problem with a Cadillac STS also. Chronic overheating problems. money down the drain (just shaking my head).
BTW the LS V8 does not have a trans dip stick at all. They all have sealed trans units, meaning unless you have physically seen oil leak from it, there is no need to top off any fluids. Your issue is probably the transmission shift solenoid. When does it jerk when you shift to reverse? on a warm engine or cold engine? and make sure to wait for the RPM to fall to under 1000 before you shift at all.
Watch my other video here I have literally covered all the issued you have described.
ua-cam.com/video/Q_A4j3NASx4/v-deo.html
my dad bought a 2003 ls v8 and its been overheating at first it was fine for a few miles but now it just starts overheating in a few minutes of driving
at first we noticed the fan wasnt turning on so he just hot wired it but its still overheating, so then we just removed the thermostat which did nothing...
the Degas bottle isnt yellowed and seems to be fine so i dont think this would be the issue, we just got a new water pump so were gonna try that
Could the DCCV be bad and be causing this overheating?
hey buddy! You're on the right track. The DCCV in this car is almost always 95% of the problem, for sure. In fact the one in mine was replaced, so it's to be expected. The DCCV is just a solenoid that doesn't open properly and therefore closes the flow of coolant under normal conditions. Something to look at after you bleed it.
What's a dccv? I bought a 2005 Lincoln ls V8 with 91000 miles. Previous owner changed thermostat housing and it started leaking it the cap that's screwed onto it. I drove it home a 15 mile trek and it did fine. This morning I decided to use thread tape on the cap and now it's not leaking but now trying to overheat and a lot of air in system when I was slowly opening the cap after running it to operating temp and then shutting it off and slowly opening the cap. Help us appreciated. I never owned a ls just town cars and grand marquis
@@jasonyoung4890 the DCCV is the dual climate control valve its on the passenger side of the radiator under the canister thing (idk the name of it)
I will say that we replaced the water pump, dccv, had the fan hot wired to max speed, and removed the thermostat and it was stilll overheating from what we were guessing was some air in the system
we ended up buying a vacuum coolant filler tool (Uview 550000 airlift, its around $120) and after using it it didnt overheat after a 20+ mile test drive
It seems this engine does not like any air in it at all
@@redrevo_117 yeah I'm noticing that lol. Previous owner replaced the thermostat and housing with a AutoZone part because last one was leaking. I took it off and then filled it with water and found a crack. I'm curious if this crack will let air into system as well as leak?
@@jasonyoung4890 probably yeah there should be a vent hole i think, but yeah if theres a crack it does need to get replaced and then probably try the bleeding process but i really do recommend using a vacuum filler you may be able to rent one but im not sure
i can used this coolant for my 2002 lincoln ls v8 correct
My tank is leaking and there is steam coming from it while i would drive it was okay but when I shut the car off it would all leak out. Is that just a leak in the tank?
Is the steam coming from around the bottom and back of the overflow tank? Usually that is the case (I've had this myself). Just replace the tank, it'll be fine after. Also gotta be sure the cap is tight and sealed well.
I replaced the tank but that hose that just slides on the tank ni think bleeds shit vibrates really loud now but tank is good
hybrid32494 did ya get that message
are you referring to the the hose that actually attached to the overflow tank itself? Or the smaller one next to it that is used for bleeding? The area area where the overflow tank hose attached is the weak part and where the small cracks form, thats why it seems like the hose is the issue.
hybrid32494 its the bleeder the one that the hole is plugged
I unscrew the valve and black liquid came out, just a tiny bit, but no matter how long I have it open nothing more has come out, any suggestions?
Sounds like your actually bleed valve is clogged. Did you use the original Ford Motorcraft coolant? Also are you having any coolant leak issues or low levels of coolant in the system?? And btw you do have a gen 2 V8 model correct?
hybrid32494 sorry for late reply, I opened the bleeder valve and drove with it opened at it starting getting the coolant out fine, plugged it up and it's been working fine, I used zerex yellow coolant, because nobody around me had the motoraft coolant. It is an 03 lincoln ls v8. Same engine. But now I'm having an issue with my o2 sensor and my brake booster and master cylinder
hybrid32494 I replaced the upper radiator hose cause it blew so my engine was overheating after I replaced it due to air in the cooling system but it doesn't overheat anymore which is good, also my a/c gives off a hissing noise since the hose blew
well at least it don't overheat anymore and you bleed it correctly. In terms of the AC issue (I just don't worry about mine, its more work than it's worth to repair these old system, mine quite working about 2 years ago). The O2 sensor is an issue, usually needs replacement. What about the brakes? can you describe the brake issue?
hybrid32494 The brake master cylinder is leaking fluid into the booster, and the booster has a vacuum leak. It's not that noticeable to me except when I'm coming to a complete stop the car sways back and forth
Is there a way to know if it’s the dccv
how does the universal coolant interact with the system? corrosion?
from my understanding many of the off the shelf coolants have DEXCOOL, this Lincoln's cooling system is not designed for it. I would not use it if I were you. The theory is that this dexcool and or other additives in green type coolants will leave deposits in the system over time and clog it up. This orig OEM ford coolant costs a little more, but make sure you use that stuff.
hybrid32494 I didn't know this. So do I drain the system ? My heat works great. I have a small leak on the plastic by the thermostat as well. Every now and then it over heats but goes to normal temps when i turn the heat on. Any idea why it could be over heating ? I'm gonna try bleeding it I just bought it a week ago 05 LS
My v6 has that same one bleed but it's to bleed the heater core what I read on line
hmmmm??? I don't think you can bleed just the heater core itself. The whole cooling system is connected and runs through the heater core itself, it seems someone gave you incorrect info (partially correct it seems). This is the case in every car, not just your V6 or my V8 models.
hybrid32494 When you do the process of bleeding the coolant You turn on the heat max and the fan high or low? And do I press the button for inside air or the outside air? I'm not sure if that matters
the air recirculation button does not matter, I always leave mine on fresh outside air BTW. In terms of bleeding, just put it on medium-high fan setting and max heat for about ten min. Then shut it off and repeat two more times, you need several cool down and heat cycles for the process.
after bleeding the coolant the engine fan still sounds loud when idiling for a few minutes any thoughts?
mine has been doing this too for the past couple of years. Try putting the heater on and all notice the fans will quiet down. Otherwise I have been unable to fix the fans, but mine are not always running loudly, only sometimes. although car is not overheating, it seems fine.
Mine does the samething. It doesn't overheat just the fan is loud when idling. Im not sure what it is or causing it.
my lincoln ls 05 v8 is overheating on me, leaking coolant left side (drivers side) tire replaced T-stat. still happenes but rolls fine with heater on full blast and no over heating, any body fixed this problem?
Mine 04 does the samething even with the fan on blast. I looked in a lincoln forum and they said to repalce all of the coolant system parts, hose, and bleed it. I will keep you posted.
are you using the heat on with the fan? BTW this particular car in the video has all new original FORD parts replaced at the dealership including water pump and radiator and some hoses. IT's been doing this even after the repairs, luckily for me FORD didn't charge me anything after a long feud with them since the issue has not gone away. My coolant system has been bleed by them and me a few times, and no coolant is evaporating or leaking. Still a mystery. Only thing I can think of is that once the Alum block has had any minor coolant or overheating issue It's over for it. Its fully drivable and reliable but the damn fans run alot.
when do I have to bleed the system? not when I put coolant into the resevoir I hope?
Powerful yes, every time.
Wait so how do i propely do it? Open degas bottle and then valve? Do i do this while car is on?
yes, the most important thing is to bleed the car with it running, the heater on high, max heat for 5-10 minute intervals. Does your bleed valve work? If it works then the Degas bottle has to be closed. Let me know..
hybrid32494 yeah my bleeder valve works. When i bled it, coolant came out
ok, so it's ok now? were you trying to do this with the car off?
I replaced my v8 engine does that mean the dccv mean it requires attention or am I missing something
hey! Hard to say, do you have any issues with heating and cooling right now? like does you ac work and blows hot and cold air fine? If the HVAC system works fine then you don't need to worry.
hybrid32494 My other suggestions that I have is could possibly be the mechanic only used the dex antifreeze and then I turned around and purchased concentrated from dealership and only added to coolant jug when it was low????
And as well when I do turn off n heater the ac blows on the cold when it’s high heat then starts to blow hot air heater core has been replaced when new motor was put in.????
Will using regular antifreeze cause vehicle to overheat?
generally NO. Although typical antifreeze tends to have DEXCOOL which can gum up the system. That is the main rationale why to use only this original coolant. Many people have run regular coolant and they usually have similar problems anyway. I stick to this one because it's only a little more expensive.
hybrid32494 okay thanks
I bought the thermostat and housing together. Is the housing supposed to have a slit inside on the right side.
it has an opening on the right side I mean is it made like that
yes, thats normal. I noticed that too when I first got it. Its just a vacuum/breathing channel. Nothing will leak out of it, all see.
OK thank you. I bought a gasket maker had it put on. I turned the car on and antifreeze started to come out of the vacum hole. I just went and bought the gasket itself. I can still re use the the thermostat if I take it out.
I found a leak it's under the car behind the passenger wheel well it's a hose connected to it.
damn leaks. Ive had 0-ring leaks in that area too under the car in the back of the motor area, but from the trans oil lines(redish color oil).
hi. I have the same car. I noticed that air was coming out of the coolant container on top. So I turned the cap a little and the noise stopped. Then a couple days later, for the first time the car started to over heat. So I towed it home. I'm not sure if I did something wrong by tightening the cap. I looked throughout the engine to see if I could see a leak and I saw a small leak coming from a part or hose in front of the housing unit where it goes into the block. I'm guessing. But I noticed the coolant is green when I heard u say yellow and it says on the caps also. what should I do?
Yes you def have to use not green coolant, at this point if you have not had other overall cooling issues until you messed with the cap, then Id say keep putting in what you used before. Otherwise sounds like you need a new reservoir cap, they are highly pressurized and if any leaks exist then you will always have air in the system and air bubbles, try too bleed it after you fix the cap and possible leak. The theory is that this car is not designed to be used with DEXCOOL (usually in all green and universal coolants).
I thought I had seen you here,awesome just subbed to you for rc's,sweet brotta:)
hey bro! Glad to have you here for the RC Action! My channel has evolved into mostly RC only. BTW, I still have tis car, it's stick Kicking AS*, you can sometimes see me driving it in my vids.
Nice car😍
i got steady stream but still no heat could it be the dccv
most likely it is. That dccv is an actual valve that opens and closes the coolant flow itself. If it is stuck closed then the heater core will not get any of the hot coolant from the system. I replaced my DVVC around 4 years ago, no problems since.
did u have three hoses or five
mine has three, yours should too.
I have a lincoln ls 2000 it doesnt start its giving me a code that says rescue failure. Do you know what that means?
Google it
Could you help me out.
I have a 2004 lincoln ls v8 my car randomly heats up i had the mechanics check the car they couldn't find what was wrong with it. i pour fluids in the car seems to ru. for a few days then its back to overheating help??
are you checking the fluild levels? are they actually being leaked out after you pour them in or do you have a head gasket leak causing your coolant to be burned by the motor. Check the top of your oil cap to see if it has any white residue, if it does then you know your coolant is mixing with the fuel and being burned. let me know.
hybrid32494 The fluid level goes down once the car starts to over heat. There is no residue anywhere i did have a leak last week had the mechanics take a look at the car but couldn't find any leaks from anywhere on the car i showed them specifically where and they couldn't find anything
hybrid32494 The fluids usually last about 3-5 days until it starts to over heat again
Do you notice any smells typical of hot leaked antifreeze? its possible that it is only slightly evaporating from any of the bad molded plastic pieces in the cooling system. I had that before near the top t fitting near the radiator hose. You will not see physical leaks but it did smell. Did you check the oil cap for white residue? this is the only place you will see this because it is the highest point of your engine and coolants tends to settle there itself.
hybrid32494 There is no smell at all. And no residue on the engine oil cap its completely normal no other colors
Do you think just bleeding it every now and then? Did you replace the fan also?
the fans are original as far as I know, Both work fine and turn on appropriately it seems. I have not bleed it frequently because I really don't want to add coolant after to the overflow tank, this will likely cause more issues with the cap comping off due to the high pressure there. My damn 98 civic EX or Acura integration GSR never has any coolant pressure or air bubbles, LOL..
hybrid32494 hmm not really sure I understand why you are so averse to adding more coolant? because by opening the cap it weakens it is that what your saying?
YEs, thats what I'm saying. Every time you open the coolant cap it lets more air in and pressure out, Thats a big issue on these cars. In my opinion os far as long as the car isn't loosing coolant or overheating I can deal with it.
Where can I buy that bleeder screw?
the bleeder screw is part of the car, its an OEM part. I guess you can look for the whole hose assembly itself.
i change the thermostat in my lincoln 2002 , its still overheating
Your 2002 model has a different cooling system than the one in my video here. The Gen 1 model which is 2000-2002 do not have the same cooling components and bleed process because they do not have electric fans and use hydraulic pumps instead (basically more complicated). Look up some info on the hydraulic fan pump cooling components themselves. Good luck..!!
My Ls is overheating can you help
Mine bleeds drips then nothing comes out
Just to be sure,,, in cups it's only 12 cups of distilled water
Hey buddy, you would need exactly the same amount of distilled water as the coolant you’re adding. The goal is to have a 50% dilution rate. Considering how much of the coolant you’re adding that will be the same amount of distilled water you’re adding.
Check it out, good ole dad has replaced all 4 O2 sensors, all the spark plug coils the T'stat, had to buy a new T'stat cap cause the old one was on there so tight it cracked when I took it off, good ole plastic, the water pump and air flow sensor and the serpentine belt, I know about the DCCV and how they will go bad, but I thought sense the heater was working before I changed the degas tank that I had chance that it's not the DCCV, I got a steady stream but I don't know if I have replaced all the coolant, a lot came out when I took that bottom hose off, I will find out tomorrow if that is the prob, if not then it very well could be the DCCV, god I hope not, thanks for the vid and the reply, I shall see tomorrow and jump back on here and let you know, thanks again.
ok good luck, the whole youtube Lincoln LS community needs to know, lol. Did you try checking to see if the DCCV works by Turing the heater on all the way and then just to cold air circulation? all the vents should have the same temperature and it should take under 10 seconds to change from hot to cold, this would indicate the DCCV works.
So far all I did was let the car get up to running temp and turned on the heater to the highest temp along with the fans while I bled it with the bleed screw, did that for about 20 minutes, turned off the car and let it cool down and topped off the degas bottle and called it a night, gonna be driving it early in the morning and do some more air bleeding, I'll try turning it from hot to cold and see if it changes, man I hope the DCCV is ok!!
so far u did well. But you def gotta cycle the DCCV with the hot to cold function, and make sure the stupid DUAL zone feature is off. Im pretty sure after using the dual zone twice mine broke right after that.
Have you flushed the radiator
hey dude! For this particular video I did not flush the radiator, but it was done previously by the FORD/LINCOLN dealership. Although I will tell you that without the proper bleeding process flushing the radiator would usually cause more air bubbles in the system anyway.
I bleed it and the constant flow never came, it kept spitting it out every few secondz thhoo
was your heater on? Sounds like your water pump isn't generating enough pressure or the system is clogged. Does your heat work well?
hybrid32494 - My heater works fine, but I noticed steam from the left side of my hood (driverz pov), I bleed it and it laztz about a week then it’ll steam again and I need to add more coolant.
if you have steam coming from the upper left side (drivers side) that is most likely a crack in the overflow (Degas) tank. They commonly form a hairline crack that expands when the coolant gets hot, this will cause the system to not be fully pressurized and you will ofcourse loose coolant. Check the tank.
hybrid32494 - So if I buy another tank, what if my coolant stays hot again right after replacement, will it cause another crack? Do you think this will fix the “no-flow” of coolant I get while I try to bleed out the air?
My heater don't work can I still bleed the cooling system, car is overheating,2001 LS Lincoln, can someone please tell me.
it sounds like your heater core is blocked (possibly from old gummed up coolant in the lines). The 2001 model AKA the first ten he's a hydraulic fan pump and the system is quite diff from this model in the video. Do you have enough coolant is the system is the first question?
about 8 months ago had to replace the radiator,changed the thermostat and all the hoses an overflow tank,had to play with hoses a while but finally got the systemed bled an has run fine till last week but now just can't seem to get the air out and it keeps overheating.
How is your coolant level? is it in the normal range? I think these DCCV valves function poorly and they cause low coolant circulation even when there is no air in the system or leaks.
My ls heater blew cold air until I bled the coolant system
Where is the transmission stick on a lincoln LS v8 2006
there isn't one. All the V8 models have a sealed transmission case. You cannot check the oil like you normally would. Are you having shifting problems?
hybrid32494 it's slipping
in these cars the most common issue with the trans slippage or hard shifting is from a bad shift solenoid. Do you have any codes on your Dash LCD display?
They also have a poorly designed servo made of steel that moves in and out of a bore hole in the transmission case which is unfortunately made of aluminum. The servo shaves away at the bore hole until it's too wide to function properly and then you have problems with transmission getting stuck while in drive gear. Solenoids are a problem on '03 model but should be solved by late '04 model.
There is no trans stick just like out 06 Chrysler 300.
I've been running water in mine. No problem
hey buddy! By water do you mean, distilled water with the coolant mix? You cannot just run basic water, you know.
Is that coolant or fruit juice.
hahaha, just tasted it, it's def coolant. ahahah. Thanks for watching...
After replacing those plastic parts that were leaking (the one you pointed out), I had a dickens of a time bleeding my LS V8. Before I got the bleeding done right, the car would get very hot and the aux. fan would start blowing. (car sounded like a jet taking off). That little rubber bleed thingy is useless IMHO.
I ended up getting one of those bleed buckets that sits on top of the radiator. I ran the engine with the bleed bucket and it bubbled for about 40 minutes! No kidding. That finally fixed the 'air in cooling system' scenario. Here is a link to buy one of those buckets: www.amazon.com/Lisle-24610-Spill-Free-Funnel/dp/B001A4EAV0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1471191050&sr=8-1&keywords=bleed+buckets
Nice vid. Thanks
BTW mine still has the high fan speed issue when it idles, even after bleeding it a few times. Ive also noticed that half the radiator stays much cooler one one side and hot on the other. This car has a a new radiator, water pump, water inlet, and thermostat replaced two years ago. The temp does not go up above normal but the fans run very high at times, especially with the heater off. IT must still have air in the system? do you think?
Oh Dude! You need the bucket! That engine literally has to bubble out of that bucket for 30 to 40 minutes! I could not believe how much air was trapped in that engine.
now if I can figure out how this bucket system actually works, LOL.
The bucket is a temporary vessel for coolant. First find the appropriate cap parts that came with bucket. My 05 V8 did not have a great match. I had to find the closest match and MAKE it work. I don't recall how I did that. Then mount the bucket on top, fill about 1/4 full, turn on the heater and start the engine. As it gets hot, the level of coolant will expand and lots of bubbles will escape. The main thing is, don't let the level of coolant drop so that air gets in! On the other hand, you don't want too much so that it spills out of the bucket. As I stated, it took quite awhile for the bubbles to stop. Lots of air in there. Just let it run until you see no more bubbles. Then shut down the engine and watch it and make sure it does not suck air during the cooling process. When its sufficiently cooled, stick the rod that came with the bucket in there to block off the remaining coolant. Remove the bucket and remaining coolant, replace the cap with the normal cap and test!
I have owned my car for about 8 years and have never heard that high speed fan come on through all kinds of travel. The ONLY time it ever came on was when I had all the air in the cooling system. Good luck, you can do it!
Michael Aitchison zw
my heater doesn't work can I still blead it?
If your heater does not work it can mean that it's clogged. The whole cooling system has to be clear and pressurized for the bleed to work. Are you ok on the coolant level? and the heater just isn't hot?
i change thermostat and my still overheating
How you fix this problem?
The dummies at the dealership put the green stuff in my LS and it’s been over heating, do think that why ?
hey bro! Chances are they also didn't BLEED the system at all.
The bleed process takes a while and like 2-3 times on this car. Try this bleed process. But ye man, you really do need that original GOLD Motorcraft coolant.
@@hybrid32494
Thanks bro I really appreciate that
So I can't use 50/50?
unless you already buy the premixed version of this coolant, yes you need to use distilled water to mix it.
hybrid32494 bet just ordered it, thank you!
sure!!! I still got some coolant left from years ago when I made this video, ahahah. Actually don't even need a top up yet. Amazon sells this stuff for 25 a gallon, terrific deal btw.
hybrid32494 exactly where I got it from lol. Got here today, just ganna wait for this snow to go away for a day or two then get to it
ok buddy, let me know how it goes. Make sure to bleed the system very well after.
Pointless vid should of shown the bleeding process instead of yabbling
OK, no yabbling next time.
Where's the damn drain plug
hey buddy! These cars have a "SEALED" transmission. There is no dip-stick. BTW, Which drain plug are you talking about? OIL, Coolant? Trans??
Wtf r you talking about. Just bleed the damn car duufuss