As a few points about the blade thinning question. Carter's perspective comes from caring how the knife works as a cutting tool with no regard at all for how it looks, he recommends it for anyone, not just professionals, not just with high end knives - again, it is just about IF you want your knife to perform at its best as a cutting tool. If you thin the primary grind, it doesn't decrease edge retention, it increases it. If you are a chef for 30 years and the edge on your knife and you have never had the knife thinned out, then it just means : -you don't mind using the knife with a much thicker edge -you use the knife dull -you don't really use that knife that much (maybe you have a LOT of knives) and so on. The reality is that every time you sharpen the edge, the edge will get thicker. This increases subsequent sharpening time, and reduces cutting ability and edge retention. The changes are slow of course, but they build up over time. Carters approach is to do a little thinning each time if necessary vs letting the performance degrade, just accepting the performance loss until it gets so big you have to have a professional regrind.
Going to disagree with this. You're blade thickness will increase for sure, but the loss in cutting quality is going to be so miniscule it won't matter. For example go grab a chisel or plane iron from a professional woodworker. They will be easily shaving sharp, hell I can whittle hairs with mine and they hold their edge plenty well while slicing through much tougher material than you will find in any kitchen. The edge geometry is important, but flattening after every sharpening is just going to kill the lifespan of your knife. If and when you notice it's not performing to your standards, flatten it, if not don't worry about it.
@@inigomontoya4109 A chisel that can whittle hairs is implausible, and impractical. The edge of a commercial razor blade is maybe 8 degrees. A standard woodworking chisel is 25 degrees. For mortising, more like 30 degrees. Maybe 20 degrees for a planing chisel, but much lower than that and the edge becomes too fragile to do much with. Generally, you would sharpen the chisel by grinding the entire primary face. If sharpening by hand, it is obviously *much* faster to sacrifice a degree or two of cutting angle to create a secondary bevel. However, repeated sharpenings will thicken the blade, so before long you need to... create a new primary bevel. And to restore the original geometry, you will need to take off just as much metal as if you had been grinding the primary face the whole time. You deferred that extra work for a while, at the cost of sacrificing a degree or two of sharpness in the interim. Similar argument for thinning kitchen knives as you go.
@@inigomontoya4109 I have known Murray for close to twenty years and I think there may be a misunderstanding here. He does not advocate thinning every time you sharpen but checking to see IF the knife needs to be thinned. The biggest factor to cutting performance is all at the edge and how it transitions to the secondary bevel. I have carried one of his Brute Wharnecliffes for 18 years and even with daily use I have only thinned it three times. The loss of cutting ease as the blade thins is not trivial and you will certainly notice it. I go until the loss of performance becomes problematic and then thin it. Murray thinning the knife a very small amount more often just bypasses the loss of performance. I have sharpened his personal neck knife at Blade and it proportionally was no thinner than my one.
@@Nebulax123for expedience carter may not always follow his own advice, but thinning is a mandatory sharpening step for him according to his new sharpening method with hap stanley. It’s like eating healthy - you cannot go wrong recommending it even if you don’t always do it yourself.
Wasn't sure where to post this, but since you mentioned ruining knives... I ruined my new favorite knife, the Ricky 10" Burrfection knife, while sharpening it on a Cerax 1000 wet stone. No idea how it happened, but I scratched the right face of the knife. 😭 Any way to fix it? I would really like to buy one of your damaged knifes to practice on. BTW, that stone is amazing!!!!
Sandpaper. No joke. Work the grits. Work them dry. Once you get to 3k, it's pretty mirror like. If you want to go full mirror use wet/dry above 3k. I recommend 7k, 10k and for overkill 15k grits. Back n forward...not circles. Dw about how burrfect (perfect 🤣) you're going back n forward, it'll buff out. Don't believe? Try it on a crappy knife n see what you think! 🥰
I got fed up with dull knives in my kitchen so I went to Amazon and bought some sharpening stones - when they arrived I realized I don't know how to use them so off to UA-cam. I was lucky enough to find your page. Thank you for being here and for your enthusiasm. I am so looking forward to using sharp knives.
when you sharpen a knife you necessarily move the edge up the vee ( the blades geometry) which gets thicker thicker and thicker until you reach the spine....this is a fact of geometry not an opinion. Now its is up to the knife owner to determine whether they can live will the degradation in cutting performance caused by the edge slowly getting thicker and thicker. some sharpening techniques keep this in check without calling it thinning. in the end it does not matter if you call it thinning or not. to keep a knife at peak performance you can not let the material directly behind edge get thicker over time........... some call it thinning :)
I recently found your channel and have been just down right stunned by your decency and humanity. Your reviews and tutorials are always down to earth and conveyed in a manner that newcomers like me can understand and appreciate. Love it! Keep up the excellent work! Subscriber for life.
When I was a young man, I worked hard for little pay, and was not often happy or kind. I fought often and held grudges. As an older man now if there was one thing I could change it would be this: to be kind to people. Ryky, you have found this wisdom early in life. Enjoy your channel always.
Yet again Ryky your sharing of knowledge has helped me and all the other watchers. You are awesome. If Only SG2 knives were cheaper in Australia, I am sure more would have them. Keep up the good work. Inspiring and informative as always. Be safe and thanks again.
Every time I watch your videos I get a warm feeling inside that makes me want to look at more and more knives hahahaha love ur vids. And to anyone out there making ur owe knives Imagine it takes a lot of time and practice keep up your good work
Ryky, have been with you from the beginning. I’m 69 and still use my chef knives for vegetable work when making large buckets of soup from my country garden. Just have to commend you as a great role model for young folks and just a great human being. I’m an old timer with SIC and Arkansas stones, happy with my edges, The high end knives are off my radar. Looking for a site or eBay vendor who sell chipped or decent used knives for repair.
I really loved this video! You inspire so many people, and are a down to earth person. I’m happy to hear you didn’t let any of those negative people stop what you are doing. I’ve learned a lot from the people’s questions in this video. Very interesting and informative. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Just wanted to say thanks! Been watching your videos for a while now and just bought my first stone (cerax 1k) and I was able to finally get two of my cheap kitchen knives sharpened again including fixing some chips out of the length of one of them. Just wanted to swing by and say thanks! Glad I've learned this new skill and looking forward to continue to hone (lol) it and potentially getting a new better knife sometime in the future. Thanks again and keep up the high quality work and vids!
My dude, you're just the best. I've been watching you for a while and have used your videos, almost exclusively, as reference as I've gotten more and more into knives and cooking. By in large, you have helped me far more than any other content creator in those pursuits and I thank you so much for that. Just a couple of weeks ago I finally decided to take the plunge into knife sharpening using whetstones and was stressed as hell about it; I've been desperately afraid of ruining my knives' edges. But, after hyping myself up and drinking a gallon of coffee (in hindsight I could have done without the caffein jitters), I finally worked up the courage to put blade to stone....and it definitely could have gone better hahaha. However, I've continued to watch your videos -- using them to work on my form/process -- and already I've made huge improvements on the quality of my sharpening. Obviously I'm nowhere near master-level, but it's turning into something that I'm less afraid of and actually enjoy doing. That high you get from cutting through a magazine for the first time after sharpening is top-notch. So thank you so much for that and for just overall being the wholesome person you are. And ffs please stay safe and healthy! :D
Thank you for this. It flattening a blade has been a question of mine for a while. I feel much better ad much more competent as a newbie to the sharpening world
Hey man! I recently found your channel and it helped me a lot! I purchased 2 Yaxxel Ran 69 knives a few years ago and they lost their edge, as well as I could notice some smaller chips all along the edge. While I DID try the Yaxxel "wheel" knife sharpener it didn't really do anything except to scracth my knives. At least it didn't fix the chip. I purchased a King wetstone now (double sided with 200 and 1000 grit) and working my technique! Keep up the good work!
I really enjoyed watching your videos. Very informative, and a little zen like. Can't wait for your next one. I use Norton oil stones and Arkansas stones that were given to me many years ago. Looking forward to trying new stones that you have suggested.
Thank you for your videos! You are a good person. That is clear to see. You're also correct about the negative people. A lot of people like that can't bring themselves to give compliments or think positively. It consumes you over time and one gets to the point where they can't realize they've grown to be toxic.
Perfect statement on people that post very negative comments. I feel they are just jealous angry people. If you happy with what you post or make your self. If they cant give constructive criticism. Blow them off they dont deserve your energy. Thank for all your videos. Always full of useful info. Keep them coming.
Hi hope your keeping well and you and your family are safe just a quick question is there a good way of keeping a good edge on a serrated knife such as a bread knife many thanks and keep up the good work
Wow this man jst delivers raw knwlgde rgt n left without hyping anything huge respect brother I hope this channel grows hugely wishing u a grt success ahead keep it up
Only channel I have ever subscribed to. Really enjoy the impartial content. Used the info to purchase sharpening stone. Thanks. I have about 10 knives mostly geared toward hunting and fishing. No Japanese knife. I will purchase possibly two matching knives as gifts for my son and daughter.
Its kinna dumb how everything HAS to have a definite yes or no answer. For thinning blade, it really depends on what knife it is. A gyuto is mostly gonna be okay without thinning. But sometimes pettys get pretty thick, and the cutting edge just becomes thick asf after a couple years of use. You really cant cut things without forcing the blade through
No matter what, all Knives get thicker the more you sharpen them, so if you want the original performance you have to thin. I like to at least keep my Knives cutting like when they were New
I was just coming here to say exactly this, it all depends on the application, I definitely wouldn't thin a gyuto, but I thin my boning knives regularly - that said, my boning knives get 8-10hrs a day of constant use, and are also used more for slicing as opposed to chopping etc.
I think there's a couple of nuances to the topic of thinning. If you buy a knife that's already thin behind the edge you don't need to thin the knife as often. Murray's knifes are super thin already and he recommends that the performance of your knife will only improve if it's thinner. If you are scared of learning to thin or thinning yourself, you can always send it somewhere to be thinned.
Today I sharpened my knives for 3rd time and already feel improvement on the edge. I've had a lot of help and information from your vids. Thanks and stay wholesome! ;)
Love the videos man! I fell in love with cooking a few years back got a decent set of Calphalon knives. I had always paid for sharpening but from your videos I have gained the confidence to start sharpening my self. Just had my first run yesterday. Turned out ok. Muscle memory and form need some work before I venture into getting better knives. Anyway, thank for the great videos and keep it up man!
Josh Mooney I learned from Ryky a few years back too. The most important thing to learn at the beginning, speaking from my own experience, is to lock your wrist and don’t rotate the blade. What stones did you end up going with?
There will always be people who don't like what you're doing. You know you're on the right track when there are people who love what you're doing. Selfless, humble, helpful and kind. Trust yourself. Thanks Ryky! ❤️❤️
Hey Ryky thanks for all the great videos you put out ! I have a question that I am sure you have heard 1000 times but I'm looking for an all around set was considering a Suehiro new Cerax 1000/6000 combo stone then maybe a 380-450 stone for repairs and chips I'm not going to use it for 20 knives just a few at 60 RH and lower. Don't want to spend a whole lot. I saw the combo cerax for $65 on Amazon. Any other thoughts or suggestions Thx again Rich
I will only thin if I begin to feel a noticeable decrease in performance. I havent felt that yet, and I have damascus Miyabis, so they are plenty thin already. I might thin later on and might try to reetch the blade to.
Miyabis are terrible. Almost as bad as this guys misinformation filled videos. Every single Miyabi has visible shoulders behind the edge because the grinds are extremely thick. They try to make up for it with acute edge angles but that doesn't cut it. Miyabis are at least twice as thick as even a Shun behind the edge. I have 3 miyabis and I would never suggest anyone buy these overpriced and poorly designed knives.
I love what you are doing, helping people in the ways you do. Keep to good contet going. Im hyped for the new Studio, do you plan on giving a tour in the future?
Can always count on you to do something cool. Nice job with the giveaways! Thanks for all the tips over the years. Thought i could get the sharpening and repair down after building and truing my own wheels but somehow not as easy for me :( work in progress. Keep up the good work!
Murray Carter is an amazing blade Smith. And definitely knows his stuff, as do you. I've taken things from both of you as well as many others and developed my own sharpening style. I've thinned a couple knives the way Murray does it. I think maybe one turned out the way I pictured in my head. Your channel is one of my favorites on my watch list. I've since taken up making blades, but still frequent your channel. Thanks for doing what you do.
I bought a couple of custom knives and a whetstone in Osaka a couple of years ago, and thanks to your channel I can sharpen them properly! The shop I bought them at did show me how to sharpen them, but by the time I needed to do it, I had forgotten lol. btw, bought a buffalo leather strop off your site and found it to be much higher quality over less expensive options on Amazon
It's very easy for the internet trolls to hide behind their computer and make negative comments. They think they're tough guys but they hide like cowards. They would never say anything to your face. So keep doing what you doing, putting a smile on her face and entertaining us. We love it
I don't know why, but I just ended up binge watching your Knife Sharpening Restoring, damage knife opening... man almost theraputic. Which also reignited my knife interest .. sub +1
Love you Ryky, but there are a few things that are not exactly accurate that I'd like to clarify about. First, you mentioned how handmade japanese knives have a big primary bevel and a micro bevel at the edge, and factory-made knives have just the edge bevel. This is inaccurate, how so? Firstly the straight ground "primary bevel" you mentioned on handmade artisan knives is actually called the grind. That is used to create the TAPER of thickness from spine to edge of the knife. That same grind also exists in Yaxell knives that you mentioned, just that they're not visible because they're rounded, so called a linear grind. Many handmade artisan knives have linear grinds too (with varying degrees of roundedness as well). For example the Makoto Kurosaki SG2 knives & the Konosuke HD2 knives, Shibata Kohetsu's too! These grinds can sometimes be hollow/convex as well to maximize the thinness behind the edge. Secondly, about the micro bevel on Japanese artisan knives. That's inaccurate in the way that it in fact isn't a micro bevel. The reason is because those minuscule bevels at the edge are sharpened at the same angle as how you would sharpen a normal edge bevel, it is in fact a normal bevel. A so called "micro bevel" is sharpened at high angles (ie. 30 degrees) after you've sharpened your primary edge bevel, to reinforce the edge. The reason the bevel is so damn small is because their knives are ground so yummy damn thin behind the edge. Not because it's a "micro bevel" or is treated differently. A well ground knife out of the box, especially artisan knives will give you great cutting performance, not in sharpness, but in smoothness of the grind. With equal sharpness, a well ground knife goes through product significantly easier compared to ones that are not. How smooth can it be? You can have close to no wedging or none at all doing stuff like halfing an onion, halfing potatoes, apples and tall products alike, it doesn't require more effort than ordinary cutting. Knives that are not hand ground often struggle with those things, I've seen a miyabi wedge on every onion lol. As you sharpen those knives over the years, you wear the edge down to the part of the grind that is thicker. That decreases the performance of the knives and makes the knives feel less smooth cutting (largely unrelated to actual sharpness). The thinness behind the edge makes up for a large part of the cutting performance, so that's where many avid Japanese knives fan & chefs alike will think of doing thinning. It is unnecessary to a certain degree, but we people that splurge big money on those knives like to have that silky smooth performance like how it was out of the box for as long as we can. Sometimes we thin a knife (usually lower priced) OOTB if we hate the grind lol. But as you said it does open up a large can of worms, we look into methods of getting back the same finish (or just a good looking finish) like hand sanding/finishing & stuff like fingerstone polishing, and there's more techniques, tools & options to further complicate things up. Also, thinning doesn't reduce your knife's edge holding ability. The knives, even as thin as the Kato example that you showed is able to hold an edge as well IF NOT better than if it were to be thicker behind the edge. How so? Well, a knife's edge is able to hold up from wear as long as there is sufficient material behind it. In most cases it is sufficient. It DOES, however, make the blade more prone to chipping, hence more delicate to work with. That's one of the reason some chefs don't thin out their edge even after years of use, it's cause you can just bang on the knife and roll out prep hard all day without the worry of the knife chipping easily. I'd agree that as you said in that it is highly unnecessary for 99% of the common users to do thinning. However, if you have that one knife that was cutting bliss when it was new and just no longer like what it was anymore, consider sending it in for thinning if not doing it yourself, brings the life back into a knife.
sean, appreciate the thorough comment, but i think you may have missed my point in your arguments. you obviously are an expert, and i'm not trying to say wrong in any of your points, but please consider my points as more general, as opposed to picking exact words, and terminology, and only experts like you understand. regarding "grind", i may not have explicitly said "grind" for the kato, but did mentioned that's what it is, when talking about the yaxell. so yes, i see how you can call that erroneous, but the point was made. and about micr--bevels, you are taking the stance they it MUST be 30 degrees (which is fine), but i was not talking about degrees, and simply explaining the cutting of Kato R2 i was referring to. if you allow light to reflect off the cutting cutting edge, you'll see a "micro-bevel" be it 12, 30, or 45 degrees, which is less than .1mm wide. to me, that classifies as a mirco-bevel. like i said, you are an obvious expert. i'm simply trying to explain a few points for everyday people like me can understand.
@@Burrfection Hi Ryky, what I meant with the micro bevel was that it actually isn't a micro bevel, but just a super tiny normal edge bevel because of how thin the knife was ground. From a viewer's perspective, IMO you kinda made it sound like the Kato has a zero grind all the way down and only has a micro bevel at the edge. The reason it's a normal bevel instead of what's called a micro bevel is cause it's actually sharpened normally, around the 10-15 degrees range. I do get your stance of not talking about angles but I'm just use them as rough references. A micro bevel is actually what they do after they sharpen in a regular edge bevel (like the one on yaxell) and they raise the angle to grind in the micro bevel which is usually thinner than a hair, to reinforce the edge. The reason I wanted to point those out was because you have one of the largest reach in the knife world, as far as educating an audience goes. I think it's good to be accurate and consistent with the terms used so that it's less confusing for beginners. I don't think I've missed the point but to clear things up I figured making a thorough comment can clear things up better. Also gotta point out that I'm not an expert...just an avid enthusiast that was fortunate enough to learn from a kind community of knife people. And to be honest you're the one that got me into sharpening and knife collecting few years ago heheh! Appreciate your videos as ever Ryky!!
Well done Ryky It was very heart warming listening to your your guidance to the op that was getting trolled, not many care about others these days, says a whole lot about your caring personality, Regards, Gary ............AU
This. We need more of this. Overall wholesomeness and love. God, so happy right now Edit: wow I think you are my first ever heart from a UA-camr. Right on
Great video, thanks. About the thinning, as a sharpener gets more experienced, he/she will develop a sense of grind, edge bevel, and apex/edge. After understanding these and developing the skills to assess them, and understanding what works better for what purpose, one can decide if they want to thin. If someone is asking whether they should thin etc, it means they don't have required experience yet to understand, assess, and modify characteristics of a blade. It can be a personal preference similar to what grit you finish. Good example in the video, thanks. However technically it is necessary over time but whatever as I said with experience it will be obvious.
I enjoy your videos. I was watching one on stropping today. Everything I've ever seen on stropping uses compound on the rough side of the leather. Some people follow that up with polishing on smooth leather without compound. But I see that you use compound on the smooth side. Now I'm confused. Can you explain?
On the same note of the Masamoto stones, Kikuichi makes a 1000 and 5000 but the 5 is out of stock. Would you recommend those over Naniwa for my Kikuichi blade or should you let knife companies to be just that and go with a sharpening stone company like Naniwa?
Hi, Ryky first time fan and also a customer. I am looking for some compounds for stropping and wanted to see what you recommend. I have looked at your videos for stropping and you recommend Herold but I can't find this compound anywhere. Your suggestion is greatly appreciated.
hello mate, hope you are fine, i'm from Algeria and you can't find fancy knives here, due to low income generally, but we've got some marks on sale as "Fischer, Bargoin, Arcos, Icel, Laika, Opinel and the best of them around are Victorinox" i've got a bunch of all of those but i really have some difficulties to sharpen my knives, i can repair the edge but never make it through the paper test, skinning sheep is the worst thing for my knives, so my Q is can you made a review on Victorinox knives and any suggestions how to deal with sheep skins.
It is so true that people will bash things you do or make but can't do it there self. That is in all kinds of creating / making things. Not only with knives :)
Also im pretty sure my wife isnt all that happy with my new addiction of collecting expensive knives. I just got my first (shun classic 8 inch) chefs nife ladt week and because of you i am hooked on these knives something about having a knife made from generations of samurai blacksmiths is so satisfying. So again thank you for the new hobby.
Iv never thined any of my zwilling knives but i have thined both my tojiros when i got them and never needed to do it again. Shuns dont tend to need it either from the few that iv used. They knives i did thin where for plate garnishing and very specific and delicate cuts not a chef knife or hard use knife.
Could you do a video talking how you rate different steel for knives? Like for example, years ago i bought a set of kitchen knives that are vg1 steel. I think they are ok knives, but am curious how they would hold up to vg10 knives for example. Many thanks for your great content.
hi! amazing vidoes for learnibg how to sharpening knives! just a question! in one video you said. on european knives you dont go over 1000grit since the metal doesnt support it. i have a few wüsthof knives wich has vg10 steel. is that steel hard enough for stones over 1000grit?
i think it's supposed to be possible to get really sharp knives with 1000 grit or less, as long as you're good at it. but the 6000 grit king stones make the cutting edge really pretty so i never tried finishing on a 1000 grit stone... but i don't really know, i feel like my thinner knives are easier to get sharp compared to some other knives, but i can usually cut vegetables without much issues but paper doesn't always cut well. whetstones are quite pricey and you may not need much more than one, but it's probably fine to try some more if you want to
Have you ever tried Masamoto sharpening stones specifically the 1000 and 5000 because I can get both for $170. I have a Kikuichi 210mm chefs and plan on getting Miyabi Birchwood paring. I'm not sure if I should go this route or Naniwa Pro 800 and 3000? Thanks!
the 1k...... too slow for my taste. 6k is identical to this 6k amzn.to/2SQk89V. you can mix/match between cerax 1k, rika 5, naniwa pro 800 and 3k, and you'll have a far better whetstone set. bur.re/stones
Hi have been loving your videos! 5 years ago I received a gift from my grandmother during my culinary school training. A Miyabi 7000MCD. Even though I am left-handed and at the time 16 I didn’t know it was a right-handed knife. It really was the most comfortable knife ever. Couple years passed by and I had it sharpened by a knife shop that has maintained my uncle’s restaurant knives for over 20 years. My knife came back with 4 chips and 4-5mm less on the heel... Any tips how I should restore it? I would like to sharpen it myself but I don’t know where to start or which whetstone to use.
Hey Ryky, Enjoying your channel very much. Hoping to ask a question please: should a Japanese style single bevel knife have a secondary (4mm) more acute bevel, or would you flatten it to the primary bevel?
@@Burrfection Kind thanks for your reply. Yes, the knife (Bigsunny 7" deba) is unmodified; purchased it from amazon as a cheap test platform to learn single bevel sharpening using your yanagiba video as reference. I didn't spot from the pics a smaller second bevel. Apologies I don't have my micrometer to measure the exact width of the bevel, so I was guessing with 4mm. Do you think I should work the primary bevel? Any advice appreciated. Cheers!
Hi, Ryky this is my very first comment on any youtube channel and i want to tell you that you are a great teacher. I've learned a lot from you till i can sharpen my knives properly. So, Thank you!
Carter's thinning philosophy makes a lot of sense to me. I don't buy super knives, neither do the people I know. Everyone just buy those knife block set of whatever brand when it's on sale. Those knives have a thick spine going parallel all the way down to a microbevel cutting edge. Once that dulls you practically have to sharpen at 45 degrees on both side if you don't plan to thin it out.
Great to see you giving more knives away! On the thinning question, I've only tried to thin German knives like Burgvogel, Henckels, Wus... Etc. because of the weight or to correct the over use of powered sharpeners. Most were not hollow ground and we're corrected on a belt sander. Blade thickness/taper at the edge had a definite effect on the amount of drag the knife has through food. Which is why I moved to thinner Japanese knives and started sharpening all my knives at lower angles! That's why I watch your videos!
so basically you realized that his claim that only steels harder than 62 hrc can withstand thin edges was false, like half of the other things he says.
Great job man lots of good information on the subject. It’s super cool that you gave Sasquatch a collectible knife. I was wondering if the knives numbered that would be fabulous. Anyhow it’s good Karma for your spirit. Keep it up.
I think Murray Carter pursues the absolutely best sharpness out of a knife. He suggests making the angle smaller and smaller until the edge doesn't hold, then back down a tiny bit. If he can double the work load to improve the sharpness by 5%, he would do it. Whether that's what you are looking for is up to you. But to me, I'm looking for pretty good sharpness without too much work, so I don't thin my knives that much. I think so far I only thinned my knives in one condition: when I got a new knife and its factory profile isn't thin enough. After that, I can sharpen it a lot of times without thinning.
Completely agree! as Ryky said he is a master sharpener.......he is chasing the perfect cutting edge and has the skill and is willing to spend the time for that.
I've thinned quite a few. The hardest was a Yanagi. Second hardest was a Chefs knife I used for 30 plus years. It was a Henkles...my primary on the line knife. I only do when necessary
As a few points about the blade thinning question.
Carter's perspective comes from caring how the knife works as a cutting tool with no regard at all for how it looks, he recommends it for anyone, not just professionals, not just with high end knives - again, it is just about IF you want your knife to perform at its best as a cutting tool.
If you thin the primary grind, it doesn't decrease edge retention, it increases it.
If you are a chef for 30 years and the edge on your knife and you have never had the knife thinned out, then it just means :
-you don't mind using the knife with a much thicker edge
-you use the knife dull
-you don't really use that knife that much (maybe you have a LOT of knives)
and so on.
The reality is that every time you sharpen the edge, the edge will get thicker. This increases subsequent sharpening time, and reduces cutting ability and edge retention. The changes are slow of course, but they build up over time. Carters approach is to do a little thinning each time if necessary vs letting the performance degrade, just accepting the performance loss until it gets so big you have to have a professional regrind.
Or the chef has someone sharpen his or her knives and does not realize that they have been thinned...
Going to disagree with this. You're blade thickness will increase for sure, but the loss in cutting quality is going to be so miniscule it won't matter.
For example go grab a chisel or plane iron from a professional woodworker. They will be easily shaving sharp, hell I can whittle hairs with mine and they hold their edge plenty well while slicing through much tougher material than you will find in any kitchen.
The edge geometry is important, but flattening after every sharpening is just going to kill the lifespan of your knife. If and when you notice it's not performing to your standards, flatten it, if not don't worry about it.
@@inigomontoya4109 A chisel that can whittle hairs is implausible, and impractical. The edge of a commercial razor blade is maybe 8 degrees. A standard woodworking chisel is 25 degrees. For mortising, more like 30 degrees. Maybe 20 degrees for a planing chisel, but much lower than that and the edge becomes too fragile to do much with.
Generally, you would sharpen the chisel by grinding the entire primary face. If sharpening by hand, it is obviously *much* faster to sacrifice a degree or two of cutting angle to create a secondary bevel. However, repeated sharpenings will thicken the blade, so before long you need to... create a new primary bevel. And to restore the original geometry, you will need to take off just as much metal as if you had been grinding the primary face the whole time. You deferred that extra work for a while, at the cost of sacrificing a degree or two of sharpness in the interim.
Similar argument for thinning kitchen knives as you go.
@@inigomontoya4109 I have known Murray for close to twenty years and I think there may be a misunderstanding here. He does not advocate thinning every time you sharpen but checking to see IF the knife needs to be thinned. The biggest factor to cutting performance is all at the edge and how it transitions to the secondary bevel. I have carried one of his Brute Wharnecliffes for 18 years and even with daily use I have only thinned it three times. The loss of cutting ease as the blade thins is not trivial and you will certainly notice it. I go until the loss of performance becomes problematic and then thin it. Murray thinning the knife a very small amount more often just bypasses the loss of performance. I have sharpened his personal neck knife at Blade and it proportionally was no thinner than my one.
@@Nebulax123for expedience carter may not always follow his own advice, but thinning is a mandatory sharpening step for him according to his new sharpening method with hap stanley.
It’s like eating healthy - you cannot go wrong recommending it even if you don’t always do it yourself.
Wow that ending was so wholesome :')
Wasn't sure where to post this, but since you mentioned ruining knives... I ruined my new favorite knife, the Ricky 10" Burrfection knife, while sharpening it on a Cerax 1000 wet stone. No idea how it happened, but I scratched the right face of the knife. 😭 Any way to fix it? I would really like to buy one of your damaged knifes to practice on. BTW, that stone is amazing!!!!
Sandpaper. No joke. Work the grits. Work them dry. Once you get to 3k, it's pretty mirror like. If you want to go full mirror use wet/dry above 3k. I recommend 7k, 10k and for overkill 15k grits.
Back n forward...not circles. Dw about how burrfect (perfect 🤣) you're going back n forward, it'll buff out.
Don't believe? Try it on a crappy knife n see what you think! 🥰
I got fed up with dull knives in my kitchen so I went to Amazon and bought some sharpening stones - when they arrived I realized I don't know how to use them so off to UA-cam. I was lucky enough to find your page. Thank you for being here and for your enthusiasm. I am so looking forward to using sharp knives.
when you sharpen a knife you necessarily move the edge up the vee ( the blades geometry) which gets thicker thicker and thicker until you reach the spine....this is a fact of geometry not an opinion. Now its is up to the knife owner to determine whether they can live will the degradation in cutting performance caused by the edge slowly getting thicker and thicker. some sharpening techniques keep this in check without calling it thinning. in the end it does not matter if you call it thinning or not. to keep a knife at peak performance you can not let the material directly behind edge get thicker over time........... some call it thinning :)
I recently found your channel and have been just down right stunned by your decency and humanity. Your reviews and tutorials are always down to earth and conveyed in a manner that newcomers like me can understand and appreciate. Love it! Keep up the excellent work! Subscriber for life.
Wow, thank you!
Ryky, Thanks for the vids. I have learned how to sharpen the proper way bc of you. Keep them coming. All the best and stay safe.
When I was a young man, I worked hard for little pay, and was not often happy or kind. I fought often and held grudges. As an older man now if there was one thing I could change it would be this: to be kind to people. Ryky, you have found this wisdom early in life. Enjoy your channel always.
Willie, thank you for sharing some wisdom and your very kind words. They mean a lot
Yet again Ryky your sharing of knowledge has helped me and all the other watchers. You are awesome. If Only SG2 knives were cheaper in Australia, I am sure more would have them. Keep up the good work. Inspiring and informative as always.
Be safe and thanks again.
Every time I watch your videos I get a warm feeling inside that makes me want to look at more and more knives hahahaha love ur vids. And to anyone out there making ur owe knives Imagine it takes a lot of time and practice keep up your good work
Awesome! Thank you!
And I love your attitude and generosity. Heart wrenching to listen and watch this. All the best my friend.
Ryky, have been with you from the beginning. I’m 69 and still use my chef knives for vegetable work when making large buckets of soup from my country garden. Just have to commend you as a great role model for young folks and just a great human being. I’m an old timer with SIC and Arkansas stones, happy with my edges, The high end knives are off my radar. Looking for a site or eBay vendor who sell chipped or decent
used knives for repair.
That is awesome. keep doing what you are doing and learning. you are an inspiration to me
I have learned so very much from you Ryky. Always great content, great attitude, very wholesome. Love you
I really loved this video! You inspire so many people, and are a down to earth person. I’m happy to hear you didn’t let any of those negative people stop what you are doing. I’ve learned a lot from the people’s questions in this video. Very interesting and informative. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Just wanted to say thanks! Been watching your videos for a while now and just bought my first stone (cerax 1k) and I was able to finally get two of my cheap kitchen knives sharpened again including fixing some chips out of the length of one of them. Just wanted to swing by and say thanks! Glad I've learned this new skill and looking forward to continue to hone (lol) it and potentially getting a new better knife sometime in the future. Thanks again and keep up the high quality work and vids!
Love your videos, keep up the positive attitude and informative Q & A's .
Thanks for all your great content. Keep up the great work. I appreciate all your teaching. I have learned so much. 👍
I appreciate that!
Absolutely love how positive you are. Great videos.
Very insightful information for the knife lover and the ending with the thoughtful give a ways was priceless. Happy trails stay safe out there.
New to your channel and actually more into pocket knives, but I love your videos. I have learned a lot from you. Thanks for all you do!
Glad you like them!
Ryky Your are a GREAT man...Thank You for all you do.Love you Brother from Ray in Michigan.
I really enjoy watching your videos. I never fail to learn something.
My dude, you're just the best. I've been watching you for a while and have used your videos, almost exclusively, as reference as I've gotten more and more into knives and cooking. By in large, you have helped me far more than any other content creator in those pursuits and I thank you so much for that. Just a couple of weeks ago I finally decided to take the plunge into knife sharpening using whetstones and was stressed as hell about it; I've been desperately afraid of ruining my knives' edges. But, after hyping myself up and drinking a gallon of coffee (in hindsight I could have done without the caffein jitters), I finally worked up the courage to put blade to stone....and it definitely could have gone better hahaha. However, I've continued to watch your videos -- using them to work on my form/process -- and already I've made huge improvements on the quality of my sharpening. Obviously I'm nowhere near master-level, but it's turning into something that I'm less afraid of and actually enjoy doing. That high you get from cutting through a magazine for the first time after sharpening is top-notch.
So thank you so much for that and for just overall being the wholesome person you are. And ffs please stay safe and healthy! :D
Thank you for this. It flattening a blade has been a question of mine for a while. I feel much better ad much more competent as a newbie to the sharpening world
Great video, thanks for sharing. What was the brand knife you mentioned towards the end you use? The stainless version
The ending is so sweet that you almost forget whats happening with covid-19.
Such a cool surprised for both of them!
I cracked a smile there, speaks beautifully of you man :)
wow, im so happy for those people who will be receiving that artistry knives .im so touch.more power and thank you, learned a lot. :)
That Ryusen Ryky VG-10 profile is literally exactly my preference. Well done on the design, man.
Hey man! I recently found your channel and it helped me a lot!
I purchased 2 Yaxxel Ran 69 knives a few years ago and they lost their edge, as well as I could notice some smaller chips all along the edge. While I DID try the Yaxxel "wheel" knife sharpener it didn't really do anything except to scracth my knives. At least it didn't fix the chip. I purchased a King wetstone now (double sided with 200 and 1000 grit) and working my technique! Keep up the good work!
I really enjoyed watching your videos. Very informative, and a little zen like. Can't wait for your next one. I use Norton oil stones and Arkansas stones that were given to me many years ago. Looking forward to trying new stones that you have suggested.
Thank you for your videos! You are a good person. That is clear to see. You're also correct about the negative people. A lot of people like that can't bring themselves to give compliments or think positively. It consumes you over time and one gets to the point where they can't realize they've grown to be toxic.
love the advice and great last part of the video. you rock!!!!
Fantastic Q and A, great info and perspective.
Thanks so much!
Perfect statement on people that post very negative comments. I feel they are just jealous angry people. If you happy with what you post or make your self. If they cant give constructive criticism. Blow them off they dont deserve your energy. Thank for all your videos. Always full of useful info. Keep them coming.
Hi hope your keeping well and you and your family are safe just a quick question is there a good way of keeping a good edge on a serrated knife such as a bread knife many thanks and keep up the good work
Quote from flat mate "omg you're watching that guy talking about stones again". :-D
Flat as in apartment?
Very confused American here.
Wow this man jst delivers raw knwlgde rgt n left without hyping anything huge respect brother I hope this channel grows hugely wishing u a grt success ahead keep it up
Appreciate that
Thank you for answering the youtube 101 question. It is really helpful on a very broad level!
I have learned so much from this guy, thank you 🙏
Only channel I have ever subscribed to.
Really enjoy the impartial content.
Used the info to purchase sharpening stone. Thanks. I have about 10 knives mostly geared toward hunting and fishing. No Japanese knife. I will purchase possibly two matching knives as gifts for my son and daughter.
Do what you do ignore the negative comments. Only care about the people who care about you! Thank you for your answer!
Its kinna dumb how everything HAS to have a definite yes or no answer. For thinning blade, it really depends on what knife it is. A gyuto is mostly gonna be okay without thinning. But sometimes pettys get pretty thick, and the cutting edge just becomes thick asf after a couple years of use. You really cant cut things without forcing the blade through
No matter what, all Knives get thicker the more you sharpen them, so if you want the original performance you have to thin. I like to at least keep my Knives cutting like when they were New
I was just coming here to say exactly this, it all depends on the application, I definitely wouldn't thin a gyuto, but I thin my boning knives regularly - that said, my boning knives get 8-10hrs a day of constant use, and are also used more for slicing as opposed to chopping etc.
some outdoor knives aren't as tall as a chef knife and can have a very thick spine, so might want to plan sharpening a bit differently
I think there's a couple of nuances to the topic of thinning. If you buy a knife that's already thin behind the edge you don't need to thin the knife as often. Murray's knifes are super thin already and he recommends that the performance of your knife will only improve if it's thinner. If you are scared of learning to thin or thinning yourself, you can always send it somewhere to be thinned.
Today I sharpened my knives for 3rd time and already feel improvement on the edge. I've had a lot of help and information from your vids. Thanks and stay wholesome! ;)
Love the videos man! I fell in love with cooking a few years back got a decent set of Calphalon knives. I had always paid for sharpening but from your videos I have gained the confidence to start sharpening my self. Just had my first run yesterday. Turned out ok. Muscle memory and form need some work before I venture into getting better knives. Anyway, thank for the great videos and keep it up man!
Josh Mooney I learned from Ryky a few years back too. The most important thing to learn at the beginning, speaking from my own experience, is to lock your wrist and don’t rotate the blade. What stones did you end up going with?
@@curseofthegreat naniwa chosera 800 and suehiro 3000
Josh Mooney Cerax 3000? Rika 3000?
There will always be people who don't like what you're doing. You know you're on the right track when there are people who love what you're doing. Selfless, humble, helpful and kind. Trust yourself. Thanks Ryky! ❤️❤️
Wow 🤩 You are a kind person god bless you
Hey Ryky thanks for all the great videos you put out ! I have a question that I am sure you have heard 1000 times but I'm looking for an all around set was considering a Suehiro new Cerax 1000/6000 combo stone then maybe a 380-450 stone for repairs and chips I'm not going to use it for 20 knives just a few at 60 RH and lower. Don't want to spend a whole lot. I saw the combo cerax for $65 on Amazon. Any other thoughts or suggestions Thx again Rich
I will only thin if I begin to feel a noticeable decrease in performance. I havent felt that yet, and I have damascus Miyabis, so they are plenty thin already. I might thin later on and might try to reetch the blade to.
Miyabis are terrible. Almost as bad as this guys misinformation filled videos. Every single Miyabi has visible shoulders behind the edge because the grinds are extremely thick. They try to make up for it with acute edge angles but that doesn't cut it. Miyabis are at least twice as thick as even a Shun behind the edge. I have 3 miyabis and I would never suggest anyone buy these overpriced and poorly designed knives.
I love what you are doing, helping people in the ways you do. Keep to good contet going. Im hyped for the new Studio, do you plan on giving a tour in the future?
This whole comment section is bliss man, keep doing what you do! Regards from Malaysia
Can always count on you to do something cool. Nice job with the giveaways! Thanks for all the tips over the years. Thought i could get the sharpening and repair down after building and truing my own wheels but somehow not as easy for me :( work in progress. Keep up the good work!
Murray Carter is an amazing blade Smith. And definitely knows his stuff, as do you. I've taken things from both of you as well as many others and developed my own sharpening style. I've thinned a couple knives the way Murray does it. I think maybe one turned out the way I pictured in my head. Your channel is one of my favorites on my watch list. I've since taken up making blades, but still frequent your channel. Thanks for doing what you do.
Really enjoy your videos
I bought a couple of custom knives and a whetstone in Osaka a couple of years ago, and thanks to your channel I can sharpen them properly! The shop I bought them at did show me how to sharpen them, but by the time I needed to do it, I had forgotten lol. btw, bought a buffalo leather strop off your site and found it to be much higher quality over less expensive options on Amazon
It's very easy for the internet trolls to hide behind their computer and make negative comments. They think they're tough guys but they hide like cowards. They would never say anything to your face. So keep doing what you doing, putting a smile on her face and entertaining us. We love it
Wow Mr R, you are a truly good dude and may your good deeds be rewarded back to you many times.
Just doing my best
I like your answer to Francisco's question!
Thank you!
another great vid thx for the positivity man
What are your thoughts on Masahiro Virgin Carbon knives? Thanks for what you do, and happy, healthy vibes to you and your family!
Q and A was very informative, thank you
Glad you enjoyed it!
As a chef it helped with older blades
I haven’t been watching for too long but I can’t fault you in anyway, you’re a good guy Ryky.
I don't know why, but I just ended up binge watching your Knife Sharpening Restoring, damage knife opening... man almost theraputic. Which also reignited my knife interest .. sub +1
Love you Ryky, but there are a few things that are not exactly accurate that I'd like to clarify about.
First, you mentioned how handmade japanese knives have a big primary bevel and a micro bevel at the edge, and factory-made knives have just the edge bevel.
This is inaccurate, how so? Firstly the straight ground "primary bevel" you mentioned on handmade artisan knives is actually called the grind. That is used to create the TAPER of thickness from spine to edge of the knife. That same grind also exists in Yaxell knives that you mentioned, just that they're not visible because they're rounded, so called a linear grind.
Many handmade artisan knives have linear grinds too (with varying degrees of roundedness as well). For example the Makoto Kurosaki SG2 knives & the Konosuke HD2 knives, Shibata Kohetsu's too! These grinds can sometimes be hollow/convex as well to maximize the thinness behind the edge.
Secondly, about the micro bevel on Japanese artisan knives. That's inaccurate in the way that it in fact isn't a micro bevel.
The reason is because those minuscule bevels at the edge are sharpened at the same angle as how you would sharpen a normal edge bevel, it is in fact a normal bevel. A so called "micro bevel" is sharpened at high angles (ie. 30 degrees) after you've sharpened your primary edge bevel, to reinforce the edge.
The reason the bevel is so damn small is because their knives are ground so yummy damn thin behind the edge. Not because it's a "micro bevel" or is treated differently.
A well ground knife out of the box, especially artisan knives will give you great cutting performance, not in sharpness, but in smoothness of the grind. With equal sharpness, a well ground knife goes through product significantly easier compared to ones that are not. How smooth can it be? You can have close to no wedging or none at all doing stuff like halfing an onion, halfing potatoes, apples and tall products alike, it doesn't require more effort than ordinary cutting. Knives that are not hand ground often struggle with those things, I've seen a miyabi wedge on every onion lol.
As you sharpen those knives over the years, you wear the edge down to the part of the grind that is thicker. That decreases the performance of the knives and makes the knives feel less smooth cutting (largely unrelated to actual sharpness).
The thinness behind the edge makes up for a large part of the cutting performance, so that's where many avid Japanese knives fan & chefs alike will think of doing thinning. It is unnecessary to a certain degree, but we people that splurge big money on those knives like to have that silky smooth performance like how it was out of the box for as long as we can. Sometimes we thin a knife (usually lower priced) OOTB if we hate the grind lol.
But as you said it does open up a large can of worms, we look into methods of getting back the same finish (or just a good looking finish) like hand sanding/finishing & stuff like fingerstone polishing, and there's more techniques, tools & options to further complicate things up.
Also, thinning doesn't reduce your knife's edge holding ability. The knives, even as thin as the Kato example that you showed is able to hold an edge as well IF NOT better than if it were to be thicker behind the edge.
How so? Well, a knife's edge is able to hold up from wear as long as there is sufficient material behind it. In most cases it is sufficient. It DOES, however, make the blade more prone to chipping, hence more delicate to work with. That's one of the reason some chefs don't thin out their edge even after years of use, it's cause you can just bang on the knife and roll out prep hard all day without the worry of the knife chipping easily.
I'd agree that as you said in that it is highly unnecessary for 99% of the common users to do thinning. However, if you have that one knife that was cutting bliss when it was new and just no longer like what it was anymore, consider sending it in for thinning if not doing it yourself, brings the life back into a knife.
Finally someone with proper knife knowledge 🙏 100%accurate Sean
sean, appreciate the thorough comment, but i think you may have missed my point in your arguments. you obviously are an expert, and i'm not trying to say wrong in any of your points, but please consider my points as more general, as opposed to picking exact words, and terminology, and only experts like you understand.
regarding "grind", i may not have explicitly said "grind" for the kato, but did mentioned that's what it is, when talking about the yaxell. so yes, i see how you can call that erroneous, but the point was made.
and about micr--bevels, you are taking the stance they it MUST be 30 degrees (which is fine), but i was not talking about degrees, and simply explaining the cutting of Kato R2 i was referring to. if you allow light to reflect off the cutting cutting edge, you'll see a "micro-bevel" be it 12, 30, or 45 degrees, which is less than .1mm wide. to me, that classifies as a mirco-bevel.
like i said, you are an obvious expert. i'm simply trying to explain a few points for everyday people like me can understand.
@@Burrfection Hi Ryky, what I meant with the micro bevel was that it actually isn't a micro bevel, but just a super tiny normal edge bevel because of how thin the knife was ground. From a viewer's perspective, IMO you kinda made it sound like the Kato has a zero grind all the way down and only has a micro bevel at the edge.
The reason it's a normal bevel instead of what's called a micro bevel is cause it's actually sharpened normally, around the 10-15 degrees range. I do get your stance of not talking about angles but I'm just use them as rough references.
A micro bevel is actually what they do after they sharpen in a regular edge bevel (like the one on yaxell) and they raise the angle to grind in the micro bevel which is usually thinner than a hair, to reinforce the edge.
The reason I wanted to point those out was because you have one of the largest reach in the knife world, as far as educating an audience goes. I think it's good to be accurate and consistent with the terms used so that it's less confusing for beginners. I don't think I've missed the point but to clear things up I figured making a thorough comment can clear things up better.
Also gotta point out that I'm not an expert...just an avid enthusiast that was fortunate enough to learn from a kind community of knife people. And to be honest you're the one that got me into sharpening and knife collecting few years ago heheh! Appreciate your videos as ever Ryky!!
@@steppbrooEFT lovely conversation! This is gold! The student has become a master. Maybe not The Master, but certainly a master.
Well done Ryky
It was very heart warming listening to your your guidance to the op that was getting trolled, not many care about others these days,
says a whole lot about your caring personality,
Regards,
Gary
............AU
I love to hear a knowledgeable expert in all sincerity pass on what they have honestly earned. Thank You please keep on doing what You do best.
So nice of you
Yes it was. It is so good that you are always thinking of other and taking care of then. 👍👍👍👍
This. We need more of this. Overall wholesomeness and love. God, so happy right now
Edit: wow I think you are my first ever heart from a UA-camr. Right on
Great video, thanks. About the thinning, as a sharpener gets more experienced, he/she will develop a sense of grind, edge bevel, and apex/edge. After understanding these and developing the skills to assess them, and understanding what works better for what purpose, one can decide if they want to thin. If someone is asking whether they should thin etc, it means they don't have required experience yet to understand, assess, and modify characteristics of a blade. It can be a personal preference similar to what grit you finish. Good example in the video, thanks. However technically it is necessary over time but whatever as I said with experience it will be obvious.
Nice video Ryky! Thank you for what you do!😊
Glad you enjoy it!
Burrfection Do you have any idea on when the knife distribution will begin from your last video?😊
Good question. I have also seen this on Murray Carter. Would love one of his knives.
I love your channel. Keep going!
Great work on your channel. Thanks for the advice for us budding UA-camrs in the area of Cooking. Peace!
I enjoy your videos. I was watching one on stropping today. Everything I've ever seen on stropping uses compound on the rough side of the leather. Some people follow that up with polishing on smooth leather without compound. But I see that you use compound on the smooth side. Now I'm confused. Can you explain?
I have the same question. Following!
Great upload... great info as always.
Thanks for watching
On the same note of the Masamoto stones, Kikuichi makes a 1000 and 5000 but the 5 is out of stock. Would you recommend those over Naniwa for my Kikuichi blade or should you let knife companies to be just that and go with a sharpening stone company like Naniwa?
Hi, Ryky first time fan and also a customer. I am looking for some compounds for stropping and wanted to see what you recommend. I have looked at your videos for stropping and you recommend Herold but I can't find this compound anywhere. Your suggestion is greatly appreciated.
Hey, question when it comes to sharpening damascus, can you protect the demascus somehow? afraid to scratch it.
Great positive creator!!! Love the content!!! This is why you should always watch videos to the end.
You're the best!
hello mate, hope you are fine, i'm from Algeria and you can't find fancy knives here, due to low income generally, but we've got some marks on sale as "Fischer, Bargoin, Arcos, Icel, Laika, Opinel and the best of them around are Victorinox" i've got a bunch of all of those but i really have some difficulties to sharpen my knives, i can repair the edge but never make it through the paper test, skinning sheep is the worst thing for my knives, so my Q is can you made a review on Victorinox knives and any suggestions how to deal with sheep skins.
It is so true that people will bash things you do or make but can't do it there self. That is in all kinds of creating / making things. Not only with knives :)
Also im pretty sure my wife isnt all that happy with my new addiction of collecting expensive knives. I just got my first (shun classic 8 inch) chefs nife ladt week and because of you i am hooked on these knives something about having a knife made from generations of samurai blacksmiths is so satisfying. So again thank you for the new hobby.
Hows the move coming? GREAT information today!
Iv never thined any of my zwilling knives but i have thined both my tojiros when i got them and never needed to do it again. Shuns dont tend to need it either from the few that iv used. They knives i did thin where for plate garnishing and very specific and delicate cuts not a chef knife or hard use knife.
Nailed it again Ryky. Also What are your thoughts on trying to sharpen a knife with 2500 grit wet sand paper?
Could you do a video talking how you rate different steel for knives? Like for example, years ago i bought a set of kitchen knives that are vg1 steel. I think they are ok knives, but am curious how they would hold up to vg10 knives for example.
Many thanks for your great content.
hi! amazing vidoes for learnibg how to sharpening knives! just a question! in one video you said. on european knives you dont go over 1000grit since the metal doesnt support it. i have a few wüsthof knives wich has vg10 steel. is that steel hard enough for stones over 1000grit?
i think it's supposed to be possible to get really sharp knives with 1000 grit or less, as long as you're good at it.
but the 6000 grit king stones make the cutting edge really pretty so i never tried finishing on a 1000 grit stone...
but i don't really know, i feel like my thinner knives are easier to get sharp compared to some other knives, but i can usually cut vegetables without much issues but paper doesn't always cut well.
whetstones are quite pricey and you may not need much more than one, but it's probably fine to try some more if you want to
Hi Ryky,
What is your opinion on Chefs Knives to Go?
Thank you
Have you ever tried Masamoto sharpening stones specifically the 1000 and 5000 because I can get both for $170. I have a Kikuichi 210mm chefs and plan on getting Miyabi Birchwood paring. I'm not sure if I should go this route or Naniwa Pro 800 and 3000? Thanks!
the 1k...... too slow for my taste. 6k is identical to this 6k amzn.to/2SQk89V. you can mix/match between cerax 1k, rika 5, naniwa pro 800 and 3k, and you'll have a far better whetstone set. bur.re/stones
Hi have been loving your videos!
5 years ago I received a gift from my grandmother during my culinary school training. A Miyabi 7000MCD. Even though I am left-handed and at the time 16 I didn’t know it was a right-handed knife. It really was the most comfortable knife ever. Couple years passed by and I had it sharpened by a knife shop that has maintained my uncle’s restaurant knives for over 20 years. My knife came back with 4 chips and 4-5mm less on the heel...
Any tips how I should restore it? I would like to sharpen it myself but I don’t know where to start or which whetstone to use.
Hey Ryky, Enjoying your channel very much. Hoping to ask a question please: should a Japanese style single bevel knife have a secondary (4mm) more acute bevel, or would you flatten it to the primary bevel?
4mm is WAY to long for a single bevel knife. did you buy a knife with that?
@@Burrfection Kind thanks for your reply. Yes, the knife (Bigsunny 7" deba) is unmodified; purchased it from amazon as a cheap test platform to learn single bevel sharpening using your yanagiba video as reference. I didn't spot from the pics a smaller second bevel. Apologies I don't have my micrometer to measure the exact width of the bevel, so I was guessing with 4mm. Do you think I should work the primary bevel? Any advice appreciated. Cheers!
I love your vids man
Question: what are the primary purposes for chefs knives. What can be done with an 8" that cannot be done with a 6", and so on. Thanks! I'm a newbie
Hi, Ryky this is my very first comment on any youtube channel and i want to tell you that you are a great teacher. I've learned a lot from you till i can sharpen my knives properly. So, Thank you!
I am honored
Carter's thinning philosophy makes a lot of sense to me.
I don't buy super knives, neither do the people I know. Everyone just buy those knife block set of whatever brand when it's on sale. Those knives have a thick spine going parallel all the way down to a microbevel cutting edge. Once that dulls you practically have to sharpen at 45 degrees on both side if you don't plan to thin it out.
Great to see you giving more knives away! On the thinning question, I've only tried to thin German knives like Burgvogel, Henckels, Wus... Etc. because of the weight or to correct the over use of powered sharpeners. Most were not hollow ground and we're corrected on a belt sander. Blade thickness/taper at the edge had a definite effect on the amount of drag the knife has through food. Which is why I moved to thinner Japanese knives and started sharpening all my knives at lower angles! That's why I watch your videos!
so basically you realized that his claim that only steels harder than 62 hrc can withstand thin edges was false, like half of the other things he says.
Question: When using push and pull, why you never sharpen the knife horizontally? Is it because the shape of stone, or other reason? Thank you.
Great job man lots of good information on the subject. It’s super cool that you gave Sasquatch a collectible knife. I was wondering if the knives numbered that would be fabulous. Anyhow it’s good Karma for your spirit. Keep it up.
I think Murray Carter pursues the absolutely best sharpness out of a knife. He suggests making the angle smaller and smaller until the edge doesn't hold, then back down a tiny bit. If he can double the work load to improve the sharpness by 5%, he would do it. Whether that's what you are looking for is up to you. But to me, I'm looking for pretty good sharpness without too much work, so I don't thin my knives that much. I think so far I only thinned my knives in one condition: when I got a new knife and its factory profile isn't thin enough. After that, I can sharpen it a lot of times without thinning.
Completely agree! as Ryky said he is a master sharpener.......he is chasing the perfect cutting edge and has the skill and is willing to spend the time for that.
I've thinned quite a few. The hardest was a Yanagi. Second hardest was a Chefs knife I used for 30 plus years. It was a Henkles...my primary on the line knife. I only do when necessary