"'. . . cause it's a much easier spot to land all the grounds." Thanks Benjamin, that is what I needed. And, I like your idea of wiring the two ground bars together.
The extra ground wire between the bus bars is a good idea because of the paint on the panel. You're not guaranteed of a low resistance connection through the chassis.
Thanks for the help! This is exactly what I was looking for. I just need to go back in the video and make.sure where the 4th wire (ground) goes into the main panel.
Just finished running my wires in my shop through emt and you bet I also pulled a redundant ground wire also just in case. Can't be too safe I love it. Now I have to do this to the sub that is supplying my shop because the builder bonded every ground and neutral together.
Just preparing to install a main load center as a sub panel in my attached garage as I want to have the ability to kill the power to the garage with a main breaker and I couldn't remember how to handle the lack of separate ground bars in a main panel installed as a subpanel. This video really helped, TY.
Great video, work and info. One thing that I do is grind off the paint where Ill be installing the the ground bus to ensure a well established grounding point.
I am confused by this video. Bottom line is ground and neutral can not be bonded (tied together). If they are bonded and you lose the neutral all the current will go back on all the grounds. So if you touch a ground and you are touching a pipe or somehow are grounded…… say goodby! ⚡️⚡️⚡️⚡️
@@JesseKlaus ... bonding of neutral and ground is ONLY at the point of first disconnect. That means in whatever panel the main line circuit breaker is mounted. If it's out at the meter, then that's where you bond.... and no place else!
I hope I got it right... Separate building with a sub panel has it's own ground rod, connected to the ground from the mail panel and connected all the grounds in this building. Don't connect to the neutral. FYI, I just want to spot check some shady installers. Excellent, very helpful!
Douglas Hurd If you wire it that way your breaker may not trip an wires may be energized if a malfunction occurs from a appliance you only use ground rods that are minimum 8 feet in earth contact do two at least minimum of six feet apart on the service entrance disconnect than sub panels use the ground from service entrance disconnect so it would trip the breakers quicker an less heat buildup as well as easier to diagnose a ground issue this guy don’t have a full understanding of electrical theory please research more an be careful if you want additional ground protection it should stay all in the service entrance disconnect panel like four ground rods wired separately instead of daisy chained to a separate bonding strip than one wire ran into service entrance disconnect panel that way you have the four rods you want for additional ground protection
Very clear and smart info! Thanks. Is the neutral/ground separation the same for a sub panel off a sub panel. So I have a main 200 amp in the house then sub panel#1 in detached garage then sub panel#2 from sub panel #1 in barn.
Thank you for your video. I needed the information that you showed on your video about that whole house surge protector and how it's grounded to the neutral in the instruction but it also supposed to be grounded now when I watched your video I saw it's directly to the ground not the neutral that's the information I wanted to double check on that's why I've been watching videos thank you again.
Very clean install on the clarification part. You do nice work, I would love to have someone as tidy as you are when I need work done. My last experience with a "journeyman" electrician didn't leave me with confidence that the job was done correctly just because it looked so sloppy.
Yeah unfortunately not all installs look the best. Sometimes it isn't the guys fault in that they are under pressure to finish ASAP and can't take the time to make it look neat. You have to shop around and ask for an electrician that does neat work. You will pay a bit more but I think that it is worth it. Thanks for the comment!
I really enjoy your videos and have learned alot. I have a question. So I installed a ground bar into my main panel because it was sold separately. I understand the bonding screw connects the neutral to the panel that the ground bar is attached to but would I also need to connect a wire from the neutral bus to the ground bar?
When adding a 200 amp sub panel as Main And using old 3 wire , Main as Disconnect , is it ok to use No 4 SEC. Aluminum . 3 wire and adding additional ,No 2 copper, as 4th wire to ground bussbar. ? Thanks. love ur videos.
@Bob Atleast he has an actual understanding of why a subpanel requires separation of ground and neutral, as opposed to most of the "real" electricians that wire up what they think is right. But im sure you have it down to a science..."Bob"
@Bob instead why dont you share your profound knowledge rather than putting him down over a video where he did nothing wrong. Though I didnt say you didnt know your job, most of the people I have learned the most from, who were truly smart, weren't half as condescending as you. You could do a lot more with that knowledge, but you decide to be an internet troll. Interesting, I would say you would have to be pushing 50 at 26 years in the field. Way to express you expertise at such a mature age.
Hi Ben i just want to ask which one is the binding screw here in my main panel? I was searching and haven’t found any except that I am wondering it is the green wire connected to the ground and eventually connected to the neutral? I will attach the picture so you can see and confirm please?
Great Vid! I have a 200A main panel that has two upper bonded busbars and a third busbar toward the bottom of the panel, which has no ground in the grounding screw. I've recently run two 20A circuits. I've been told I can't use that third busbar for neutrals or grounds. Can I simply run an 8AWG copper wire from the upper bus to the lower bus and have that bonded too? I'm running out of room in the other two upper busbars.
Hey ! Ben what’s your best suggestion for ground & neutral wires, when ur relocating ur main panel to another location. But still using the original panel, I guess as a junction box. It’s 100 service, main breaker. So I ran #2 wire ( 2 hots, neutral & ground) from another 100 amp breaker to main lug in new panel. Just not sure if I met to use bonding screw. Since it’s technically not a sub panel, or is it?
Enjoyed the video. Question: if the main panel is bonded and the sub panel that I’m adding isn’t do I still connect the ground in my main panel to my sub panel even if I added a new ground rod on my sub panel.
Best video 👍. I have 2 separate meters with 2 main panels for a 2 family house. Now I use it as one family and closed one meter/account. So I want to convert one of panels as Sub-panel. Do I need to get additional ground bar for this converted sub panel? It’s in same house and 2 panels next to each other and they are all connected to metal conduit, then to the ground. Thanks 🙏
Hi Ben! I would like to add an exterior gfci outlet with a dedicated cable to my front entrance. On my main electric panel, I still have a few slots for additional single pole breakers. Most of my lightings are LEDs and and I have gas appliances so no problem of overloading. But on my neutral bar, I'm running out of screw in space to insert another neutral wire. My local home depot master electrician tells me I can put 2 neutral wires in under one same screw because he says there's not much current going through the neutral bus anyways. Is he correct? Secondly, I thought neutral bus is where the current coming from hot wires, goes to the outlet, then go back through neutral wires, then the neutral bus, then back to the transformer. Doesn't that mean theres quite a bit of current going though the neutral bus? Is then the grounding bus and wires another pathway for any excess current to go back to the transformer in addition to the neutral bus? Thanks in advance, and love your videos!
In the sub panel the neutral is isolated from the chassis of the sub panel since the green screw is remove,Now is this neutral bar connected back by wire to the neutral at the main panel? ,& what # gauge of wire?
Benjamin, great video agree on all but I did have a question. What about a sub panel that mounted on a transformer that does not have a grounding rod. Should I still have a jumper between the grounding bar and the neutral or will this be one of those instances where the grounding bar and the neutral bar need to be isolated away from each other without a jumping wire. Thanks in advance
Great video . Question please, I have a new Eaton 200 amp csr 25k main panel and i dont get the purpose of the green bonding screw as i have a left buss and a right buss does it really make a difference for my ground and common of which to run the wires to?
This will be my first wiring to a subpanel, now the sub panel has a ground bonding screw already in the box n it came with a extra green bonding screw in a bag I guess for the neutral bar n I'm know not to install it. My question is do I need to run a ground from my main panel to the subpanel then add a extra ground going to a grounding rod? I watched a video where they ran it off a 100 amp breaker from the main to the subpanel 100 feet away n installed both hots n the neutral wire, but they just ran a ground to a grounding rod n not one from the main. My garage is just like 25-30 feet from where my main panel is. Thanks God Bless!
I am adding a breaker on my panel, but I see no ground bus bar. Only two neutral bus bar. What should I do with my ground wire? should I put both my ground wire and the neutral wire onto the neutral bus bar?
My house has the main panel as a sub panel but the ground and neutral are together everything works fine do i need to remove the ground to a separate bus
My 1948 home has two wire outlets, no ground. The service panel had been upgraded sometime in the past to a 100 amp service with today style breakers. If I want to run wiring for a 120 volt/30 amp disconnect for a mini split, I would just need to install a ground bar in the service panel. Then run hot, neutral and ground to disconnect on it’s own dedicated 20 amp breaker correct? Or could I just use a neutral bus to run ground from?
I have a partially installed subpanel into a garage with only 3 #2 wires buried deep. Do I drive 2 ground rods and connect ground wire to a separate ground bar along with the bare ground wires. Can't dig up the concrete to run a 4th wire from main to sub.
This is a stupid question but what is the reason for the separation of the grounds and common wires? What damaged is there if this rule is not followed in the second box?
Im trying to reuse a older subpanel in my new pole barn..it has only one bar for the neutral and ground together...i removed the "bonding to box" screw on that bar to dedicate it to neutral wires.. I bought a ground bar for the ground wire but cant figure out where to mount it ..its an older square d 100 amp panel and the breakers and buses run horizontally..can i put the new ground bar beside the neutral bar?..It seems to gonna be very crowded in that box..
Many of the older pre-late 60’s sub-panels combine neutrals and grounds. It seems that one option would be to tap the panel for a universal ground bar, run a #4 (125 amp) ground wire to the main, and separate the neutrals and grounds. The other option is to replace the panel which is often a better choice.
You have a good video tutorial Benjamin. I have one thiing to know if i can put the 100 amps circuit breaker to sub panel? Why i ask this, because my main panel in the basement is 100 amps. What will you recomend? Thank you in advance.
thanks for the videos - I have a 3 wire feed sub panel in a detached garage that was built in the mid eighties. the sub panel has a isolated neutral bar but no ground bar (both grounds and neutrals are attached to the isolated neutral) should a ground bar be added and neutrals and grounds separated. Sub panel also has its own ground rod.
Hello Maestro, thank you for educating us, I have a question, my house was built in 1936 before you even born, the electrical installation is not grounded at all, all my electrical out lets only have the hot and the neutral, the neutral from the main entrance box goes to connect to the water pipes in the property, I would like to ground what I can inside the house with new out lets installs, and with a 7 ft bar into the ground, my question is, can I get away with just one bar in to the ground?? I see in the beginning of your video, you mention 2 bars in to the ground, and also I like to install the grounds strip in the same main box, now would I tap in to the neutral strip from my grounds strip in to the main box?? because I only have 1 box, the electricity meter is in the same box, thank you in advance!
This video is from 2018, but I sure hope you monitor the comments, and can answer my question. As I was replacing the breakers in my panel, which are constantly getting false tripping, I have to disconnect the pig tail. The screw for the ground bar has a square hole in it, and a slot that you should be able to use a flat screwdriver to loosen. Well, the electrician must have been Godzilla because it's so tight that they start to strip instead of loosen. I've tried a #1, 2, and 3 square bits, but they don't fit in the square hole. Which bit are you using to tighten the screw in your video?
Great video! I learn something every time I watch. I think you’re going to have to teach at other locations and different scenarios. A trailer house stub is ultra common in this country for instance.
I get confused with ground rods. My main panel in on a pole by the road, it has ground bars. My shack has a sub panel and I have heard some say put a ground rod in the ground there too others say not to connect to it ... others use the term "ground loop". Maybe some info on that..????
If we are adding a sub panel, how big the circuit breaker can be added to the main supply panel. Say the main panel is 200A, considering there are already existing circuit breakers at the main supply panel. what are the engineering requirements ??
As a sub panel you connect your neutral to your ground bar? And the neutral should not be bonded to the panel itself right? doesn't that essentially just make your ground bar another neutral?
so in the main panel you can put the neutrals & the grounds on the same bars that has a grounding screw in it and on the sub panel you have to separate the neutrals from the grounds with a separate grounding bar.
tunnelwind1 yes this is true. This is to prevent objectionable current, or a current loop in which current travels back to the main panel or source on not just the neutral but also the ground wires and metal parts attached essentially energizing things that shouldn’t be energized. This is why sometimes people get shocked by stuff and not know why.
Thanks for the great videos!! Any chance you could please do a video showing you building a subpanel using a Square D Plug on neutral style load center. It would be great to see how you convert them to a subpanel. Thanks!
"'. . . cause it's a much easier spot to land all the grounds." Thanks Benjamin, that is what I needed. And, I like your idea of wiring the two ground bars together.
The extra ground wire between the bus bars is a good idea because of the paint on the panel. You're not guaranteed of a low resistance connection through the chassis.
Excellent hands-on ground bar grounding job on a Sub panel. Thank you for sharing with us.. you are the BOSS
Thanks going back and clarifying about the grounding cable and grounding rod. That's what I was looking for. Your videos are great
First class in your clarity, Benjamin. Thanks so much. Rick
Thank you! This is the only video online that explains this clearly.
Thanks for the help! This is exactly what I was looking for. I just need to go back in the video and make.sure where the 4th wire (ground) goes into the main panel.
Just finished running my wires in my shop through emt and you bet I also pulled a redundant ground wire also just in case. Can't be too safe I love it. Now I have to do this to the sub that is supplying my shop because the builder bonded every ground and neutral together.
Thank you! This was very helpful refreshing my memory since it’s been a while wiring my last service.
You explain things so thoroughly! Thank you! This video is so helpful!
Nicely done. Gave me the info I needed, clearly described and effectively shown.
Well done, easy to process and apply, Thank you!
Thanks for explaining the addition of 2nd ground bar
Just preparing to install a main load center as a sub panel in my attached garage as I want to have the ability to kill the power to the garage with a main breaker and I couldn't remember how to handle the lack of separate ground bars in a main panel installed as a subpanel. This video really helped, TY.
Great video, work and info. One thing that I do is grind off the paint where Ill be installing the the ground bus to ensure a well established grounding point.
You can also install the ground bar by actually using a drill and tap to actually thread the screw into the metal
I am confused by this video. Bottom line is ground and neutral can not be bonded (tied together). If they are bonded and you lose the neutral all the current will go back on all the grounds. So if you touch a ground and you are touching a pipe or somehow are grounded…… say goodby! ⚡️⚡️⚡️⚡️
@@SparkeyDogfish aren't they bonded in the meter?
@@JesseKlaus ... bonding of neutral and ground is ONLY at the point of first disconnect. That means in whatever panel the main line circuit breaker is mounted. If it's out at the meter, then that's where you bond.... and no place else!
Awsome Lookingwired Panel. I think you have reached Level god for Panel Presentation.
Your workmanship is first rate. Good job!
You did a great job explaining your work. Thank you very much. Great job!
Very professional work, great video.
Great explanation thank you. Ray
Thanks Ben. Your videos have helped me immensely. Awesome content as always. Thanks again.
VERY WELL EXPLAINED ............ good explanation with follow thru on the details TY
I hope I got it right... Separate building with a sub panel has it's own ground rod, connected to the ground from the mail panel and connected all the grounds in this building. Don't connect to the neutral.
FYI, I just want to spot check some shady installers.
Excellent, very helpful!
Douglas Hurd If you wire it that way your breaker may not trip an wires may be energized if a malfunction occurs from a appliance you only use ground rods that are minimum 8 feet in earth contact do two at least minimum of six feet apart on the service entrance disconnect than sub panels use the ground from service entrance disconnect so it would trip the breakers quicker an less heat buildup as well as easier to diagnose a ground issue this guy don’t have a full understanding of electrical theory please research more an be careful if you want additional ground protection it should stay all in the service entrance disconnect panel like four ground rods wired separately instead of daisy chained to a separate bonding strip than one wire ran into service entrance disconnect panel that way you have the four rods you want for additional ground protection
Thanks alot for the info! Got me going ;)
Thanks for the info I tied my grounds and neutrals together on my subpanel in my house I will be separating them asap.
Mostviews111, make sure that there is no bonding screw (green) in the sub panel either.
Excellent explanation now I understand the grounds thank you
Very clear and smart info!
Thanks.
Is the neutral/ground separation the same for a sub panel off a sub panel. So I have a main 200 amp in the house then sub panel#1 in detached garage then sub panel#2 from sub panel #1 in barn.
Great video. Very clear.
Hi Ben, thanks for sharing this video
Thank you for your video. I needed the information that you showed on your video about that whole house surge protector and how it's grounded to the neutral in the instruction but it also supposed to be grounded now when I watched your video I saw it's directly to the ground not the neutral that's the information I wanted to double check on that's why I've been watching videos thank you again.
Love your vid. Very thorough
Very clean install on the clarification part. You do nice work, I would love to have someone as tidy as you are when I need work done. My last experience with a "journeyman" electrician didn't leave me with confidence that the job was done correctly just because it looked so sloppy.
Yeah unfortunately not all installs look the best. Sometimes it isn't the guys fault in that they are under pressure to finish ASAP and can't take the time to make it look neat. You have to shop around and ask for an electrician that does neat work. You will pay a bit more but I think that it is worth it. Thanks for the comment!
I really enjoy your videos and have learned alot. I have a question. So I installed a ground bar into my main panel because it was sold separately. I understand the bonding screw connects the neutral to the panel that the ground bar is attached to but would I also need to connect a wire from the neutral bus to the ground bar?
Wonderful. Thank you
When adding a 200 amp sub panel as Main And using old 3 wire , Main as Disconnect , is it ok to use No 4 SEC. Aluminum . 3 wire and adding additional ,No 2 copper, as 4th wire to ground bussbar. ? Thanks. love ur videos.
Nice to see how the lads do it over the pond
@Bob Atleast he has an actual understanding of why a subpanel requires separation of ground and neutral, as opposed to most of the "real" electricians that wire up what they think is right. But im sure you have it down to a science..."Bob"
@Bob instead why dont you share your profound knowledge rather than putting him down over a video where he did nothing wrong. Though I didnt say you didnt know your job, most of the people I have learned the most from, who were truly smart, weren't half as condescending as you. You could do a lot more with that knowledge, but you decide to be an internet troll. Interesting, I would say you would have to be pushing 50 at 26 years in the field. Way to express you expertise at such a mature age.
@Bob Typical troll reply, no constructive criticism. Mike holt taught at night to 10 or 15 students at a time, then he reached millions on the net. 😘
Awesome video, thank you.
Your wires look so clean especially with that many
Good stuff..did 5 minutes and I understand... thanks for the video 🙋
This is great!
Thanks so much...I didn't know that and I have the same box
Very pretty wiring layout.
Very helpful.. thank you
Very professional. You have great videos.
Glad you found it to be helpful!
Nice and clean panel. Mine is starting to become a mess as it becomes full, no matter how much I tried to avoid it!
Thanks! Gread video!
LOL my panel looks like a drunk electrician installed it. Im envious to how clean your work looks.
Hi Ben i just want to ask which one is the binding screw here in my main panel? I was searching and haven’t found any except that I am wondering it is the green wire connected to the ground and eventually connected to the neutral? I will attach the picture so you can see and confirm please?
Great Vid! I have a 200A main panel that has two upper bonded busbars and a third busbar toward the bottom of the panel, which has no ground in the grounding screw. I've recently run two 20A circuits. I've been told I can't use that third busbar for neutrals or grounds. Can I simply run an 8AWG copper wire from the upper bus to the lower bus and have that bonded too? I'm running out of room in the other two upper busbars.
Hey ! Ben what’s your best suggestion for ground & neutral wires, when ur relocating ur main panel to another location. But still using the original panel, I guess as a junction box. It’s 100 service, main breaker. So I ran #2 wire ( 2 hots, neutral & ground) from another 100 amp breaker to main lug in new panel. Just not sure if I met to use bonding screw. Since it’s technically not a sub panel, or is it?
Great Video. Best on the nET. TY!
Thanks
Thankyou very much great work
gorgeous wire management
Enjoyed the video.
Question: if the main panel is bonded and the sub panel that I’m adding isn’t do I still connect the ground in my main panel to my sub panel even if I added a new ground rod on my sub panel.
Best video 👍.
I have 2 separate meters with 2 main panels for a 2 family house. Now I use it as one family and closed one meter/account. So I want to convert one of panels as Sub-panel. Do I need to get additional ground bar for this converted sub panel? It’s in same house and 2 panels next to each other and they are all connected to metal conduit, then to the ground. Thanks 🙏
Hi Ben! I would like to add an exterior gfci outlet with a dedicated cable to my front entrance. On my main electric panel, I still have a few slots for additional single pole breakers. Most of my lightings are LEDs and and I have gas appliances so no problem of overloading. But on my neutral bar, I'm running out of screw in space to insert another neutral wire. My local home depot master electrician tells me I can put 2 neutral wires in under one same screw because he says there's not much current going through the neutral bus anyways. Is he correct?
Secondly, I thought neutral bus is where the current coming from hot wires, goes to the outlet, then go back through neutral wires, then the neutral bus, then back to the transformer. Doesn't that mean theres quite a bit of current going though the neutral bus? Is then the grounding bus and wires another pathway for any excess current to go back to the transformer in addition to the neutral bus? Thanks in advance, and love your videos!
In the sub panel the neutral is isolated from the chassis of the sub panel since the green screw is remove,Now is this neutral bar connected back by wire to the neutral at the main panel? ,& what # gauge of wire?
U are awesome .❤ happy new year 🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉
Benjamin, great video agree on all but I did have a question. What about a sub panel that mounted on a transformer that does not have a grounding rod. Should I still have a jumper between the grounding bar and the neutral or will this be one of those instances where the grounding bar and the neutral bar need to be isolated away from each other without a jumping wire. Thanks in advance
Great video . Question please, I have a new Eaton 200 amp csr 25k main panel and i dont get the purpose of the green bonding screw as i have a left buss and a right buss does it really make a difference for my ground and common of which to run the wires to?
So if I'm adding a grounding rod and a ground bar to a panel to a house that never had grounds do I run wire from neutral bar to ground bar?
This will be my first wiring to a subpanel, now the sub panel has a ground bonding screw already in the box n it came with a extra green bonding screw in a bag I guess for the neutral bar n I'm know not to install it. My question is do I need to run a ground from my main panel to the subpanel then add a extra ground going to a grounding rod? I watched a video where they ran it off a 100 amp breaker from the main to the subpanel 100 feet away n installed both hots n the neutral wire, but they just ran a ground to a grounding rod n not one from the main. My garage is just like 25-30 feet from where my main panel is. Thanks God Bless!
Do you use a neutral termination kit for the ground wire from the main? Or is it a specific grounding termination kit for those large ground wires?
Super work
Thanks!
So the ground wire doesn't have to be green? And when installing the ground bar, does the screw go into the wall behind the panel?
I am adding a breaker on my panel, but I see no ground bus bar. Only two neutral bus bar. What should I do with my ground wire? should I put both my ground wire and the neutral wire onto the neutral bus bar?
In a sub panel, on the separate ground bar, can you share a hole for two different ground wires or must you install a new separate ground bar?
My house has the main panel as a sub panel but the ground and neutral are together everything works fine do i need to remove the ground to a separate bus
My 1948 home has two wire outlets, no ground. The service panel had been upgraded sometime in the past to a 100 amp service with today style breakers. If I want to run wiring for a 120 volt/30 amp disconnect for a mini split, I would just need to install a ground bar in the service panel. Then run hot, neutral and ground to disconnect on it’s own dedicated 20 amp breaker correct? Or could I just use a neutral bus to run ground from?
Good job
It’s good to have a organized panel but be careful of bundling the conductors too tight, that could fail inspection
I have a partially installed subpanel into a garage
with only 3 #2 wires buried deep. Do I drive 2 ground rods and connect ground wire to a separate ground bar along with the bare ground wires. Can't dig up the concrete to run a 4th wire from main to sub.
How u run 220 v connection from sub panel to load ( where t connect neutral cable) is neutral cable goes in ground bar?
This is a stupid question but what is the reason for the separation of the grounds and common wires? What damaged is there if this rule is not followed in the second box?
What size ground do you need to run from the disconnect panel to your 200 amp distribution panel?
Im trying to reuse a older subpanel in my new pole barn..it has only one bar for the neutral and ground together...i removed the "bonding to box" screw on that bar to dedicate it to neutral wires.. I bought a ground bar for the ground wire but cant figure out where to mount it ..its an older square d 100 amp panel and the breakers and buses run horizontally..can i put the new ground bar beside the neutral bar?..It seems to gonna be very crowded in that box..
2:42 NEVER WORK WITH ELECTRICITY WITH ACCESSORIES ON LOL
Hey ben,so you just drilled a hole in the side of the box for the thick ground wire to exit ?
Many of the older pre-late 60’s sub-panels combine neutrals and grounds. It seems that one option would be to tap the panel for a universal ground bar, run a #4 (125 amp) ground wire to the main, and separate the neutrals and grounds. The other option is to replace the panel which is often a better choice.
Why is it important to get the correct ground bus bars for your panel? Is it just so they fit correctly or can it cause some other issues?
You have a good video tutorial Benjamin. I have one thiing to know if i can put the 100 amps circuit breaker to sub panel? Why i ask this, because my main panel in the basement is 100 amps. What will you recomend? Thank you in advance.
thanks for the videos - I have a 3 wire feed sub panel in a detached garage that was built in the mid eighties. the sub panel has a isolated neutral bar but no ground bar (both grounds and neutrals are attached to the isolated neutral) should a ground bar be added and neutrals and grounds separated. Sub panel also has its own ground rod.
Hello Maestro, thank you for educating us, I have a question, my house was built in 1936 before you even born, the electrical installation is not grounded at all, all my electrical out lets only have the hot and the neutral, the neutral from the main entrance box goes to connect to the water pipes in the property, I would like to ground what I can inside the house with new out lets installs, and with a 7 ft bar into the ground, my question is, can I get away with just one bar in to the ground?? I see in the beginning of your video, you mention 2 bars in to the ground, and also I like to install the grounds strip in the same main box, now would I tap in to the neutral strip from my grounds strip in to the main box?? because I only have 1 box, the electricity meter is in the same box, thank you in advance!
Very nice music at the end of the video
Benjamin did you install the grounding rods 6ft apart on the side of your house and run the ground wire to your panel box?
What size ground wire did you run from the sub panel to the main disconnect panel? (The fourth wire)
can the ground wire from one panel to the other be a seperate wire or does it need to be part of the original wire jacket ?
This video is from 2018, but I sure hope you monitor the comments, and can answer my question. As I was replacing the breakers in my panel, which are constantly getting false tripping, I have to disconnect the pig tail. The screw for the ground bar has a square hole in it, and a slot that you should be able to use a flat screwdriver to loosen. Well, the electrician must have been Godzilla because it's so tight that they start to strip instead of loosen. I've tried a #1, 2, and 3 square bits, but they don't fit in the square hole. Which bit are you using to tighten the screw in your video?
Had an inspector in Northern Ca state you CAN NOT add a ground bar onto an electrical panel as it voids the UL listing to the electrical panel.
Is it possible to install a second ground bar? Is it dangerous or against code?
Great video! I learn something every time I watch. I think you’re going to have to teach at other locations and different scenarios. A trailer house stub is ultra common in this country for instance.
that is as pretty a panel as i've ever seen. attn to detail is fantastic
I get confused with ground rods. My main panel in on a pole by the road, it has ground bars. My shack has a sub panel and I have heard some say put a ground rod in the ground there too others say not to connect to it ... others use the term "ground loop". Maybe some info on that..????
If we are adding a sub panel, how big the circuit breaker can be added to the main supply panel. Say the main panel is 200A, considering there are already existing circuit breakers at the main supply panel. what are the engineering requirements ??
Question: Would this be applicable to an older sub panel with one neutral bus
As a sub panel you connect your neutral to your ground bar? And the neutral should not be bonded to the panel itself right? doesn't that essentially just make your ground bar another neutral?
so in the main panel you can put the neutrals & the grounds on the same bars that has a grounding screw in it and on the sub panel you have to separate the neutrals from the grounds with a separate grounding bar.
tunnelwind1 yes this is true. This is to prevent objectionable current, or a current loop in which current travels back to the main panel or source on not just the neutral but also the ground wires and metal parts attached essentially energizing things that shouldn’t be energized. This is why sometimes people get shocked by stuff and not know why.
Going to be replacing my panel soon with a SquareD QO Plug-on Neutral 42 space load center. I'm cringing at the cost of these QO afci breakers.
Yeah I get what you mean about that. It all adds up!! At least if you're doing it yourself you'll save a bundle of cash on labor.
Good luck!
Thanks for the great videos!! Any chance you could please do a video showing you building a subpanel using a Square D Plug on neutral style load center. It would be great to see how you convert them to a subpanel. Thanks!
I'll add it to the list!
@@BenjaminSahlstrom Thanks I look forward to it.