Ford F-150 Front Brake Pad and Rotor replacement 2015 - 2019 |HOW-TO
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- Опубліковано 10 гру 2019
- I created an easy HOW TO video to help you when you replace the brake pads and rotors on your Ford F-150.
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Well done!! You described the process step-by-step without unnecessary commentary, distracting background music or cuts to shots of bystanders (like so many "how-to" videographers do).
Thanks, I appreciate it.. tbh that's why I make most of my videos because of others I've watched that are just brutal.
Nice job. Thanks for not playing any idiotic background music. Loved the line where you said, "If you don't know how to remove lug nuts, maybe you shouldn't be doing this job". Well put, bud.
Well done.... Ive changed brake parts on a 100 cars/trucks ...you hjit all the points where folks can have a bit of trouble...Well Done.
Great video, just a couple things I like to add. I have a 2016 F150 Lariat. 1.The inner and outer pads are different and should not be mixed up. The inner pad has Mickey Mouse ears and only should be on the inside. 2. Grease should only be used for the bolts. They should not be used on the pads. The pads slide on the stainless steel plates. Grease attracts dirt and it sticks to the grease. You never see grease on the pads from the manufacturer. Thanks for taking the time
I think i need to do an update on this as this has been said a few times now "There are no ears on these pads" The OEM pads have ears but these Power Stop pads do not.
As for grease on the pads, if there is ever grease on the pads those pads are now contaminated and should be tossed. The supplied grease is for all moving / sliding parts that make contact with another and should NEVER touch the brake pad lining.
Don't forget about another important step: Take off the brake fluid reservoir cap when compressing the caliper pistons back in for fitment. It makes it easier to compress the pistons and you don't risk rupturing the rear return seal inside of the master cylinder.
It's a good idea to put a very thin coat of sil glyde or the like on the pad backing plate where the piston contacts (VERY thin), also the inner part of the slide pin you should be able to put a wrench on so it's not "finger tight". My only other suggestion is to move the jack stand to the other side of your floor jack so it's not on the curved part of the frame rail. Other than that you did a good job.
I have a 2016 XLT also. Should have watched your video BEFORE beginning. About half way through, I thought maybe I was in over my head, but you got me through it lol 😂. I did it without taking calipers apart in two pieces, but did lube the sliders like you suggested. used the fancy compression tool you spoke about vs the c-clamp (another video to figure that out, lol) UA-cam University!! Giter done!!
Glad it helped, I need to buy one of these piston retractable tools but meh, a c clamp does the job with a brake pad. Now you know how, super easy, have a beer jobs done!
When one done brakes, I usually anti-seize the bolts as well. Being torqued they should not vibrate loose
I did my 2016 F150 today as well, and having not done brakes for a decade or two, UA-cam came to the rescue, as I watched a few different ones, with helpful tips along the way. One fellow showed how you can take a bolt, insert it in the rear hole where the 21mm bolt normally goes, and as you tighten it, it pushes on the rotor, so I keep rotating the nut, until the rotor comes loose! Was a simple process, and worked slick! I chose to get some AC Delco rotors, which they state are for 'Professional' usage, on police vehicles and ambulances, so we'll see how they make out. After buying my truck last year, and was told the brakes where just done, it seemed odd that my braking wasn't up to par, but I had a burnt/rust area on both front rotors, and once I got things apart, the pads had a lot of meat on them, but both sides where cracked from top to bottom on the pad! After taking 4 hours to do the job (age is catching up on me) and taking the truck out, it was like night and day, and so nice to have brakes again!! My only question would be, do you take the time to 'Burnish' or brake-in your pads and rotors, as I'm seeing several video's on UA-cam showing how to do so. I wouldn't think most brake shops would do this, but I'm wondering how important it is to do so?
Yeah I do the repeat speed up slow down process followed by a cool off. Some rotors say "moderate to light driving over 500miles" but what your trying to do is transfer pad material to the rotor and get that nice break in. It really does make a difference.
Watched this video just to see if there was anything weird about my 16 F150. There's not, except for the ears on the pads, so thanks for the video. Got a bum wrist, can't hardly swing a hammer, rotors weren't coming off. Tried the bolt through the caliper bracket mounting hole thing just now...worked like a champ! Used a couple 3" long 1/2" bolts, did put a washer under the nut so I wouldn't mess up the mounting surface on the caliper bracket. Pays to read the replies. Powerstroke98, understand the whole age is catching up to me thing. And Amazon had a pretty good price on those Delco Professional rotors. Thanks
@@fredwerring1840 Great to hear you tried that 'tip' as it really does make the ability to get that rotor off much easier! Mine made some odd noises as I was doing it (pressure) so I put two lug nuts on the lugs 'just in case' but it eventually just loosened enough to pull the rotor off!
Thanks for the video. I will be doing my brakes in about a week or so. I’ve been doing my breaks for 25 years. It just makes it easier to watch a video or 2 first😊
I totally agree, im the same way.. even though you have done it many times its always good to watch a video or 2. What pads / rotors are you going with?
Akebono and raybestos
I have that same oil pan. They are AMAZING. so handy.
Excellent video. No bull and great advice.
Amazingly done!! Very helpful. Now it's time to see if I can do this on my truck 🙏
Great informative video, Thanks!
Thank you very much. The way you explained it is very helpful.
I'm glad I could help! I'll be doing a video on the rear brakes very soon.
I’m doing mine Sunday thank you for the video I understood everything you said very helpful you da man !!!!
Glad I could help, I've seen alot of videos on UA-cam not get straight to it and be super clear about it.
I'll be doing a video on the rear brakes soon.
@@JozzieProductions that’s my next after the front brakes short on cash so maybe in 2 weeks !! But I’d rather wait for your video!!
You're a strong boi lol I used a jack on my ratchet for the caliper mount bolt on the bottom and my impact on the top
haha 💪💪, yeah ive done that before as well for Excavator track bolts.
It's been a while since I did this job myself, so I thought I'd find a video. Your's was excellent!
I appreciate it, hope the brake job went well!
Great video, thanks!
Good Video, I done hundreds of brakes through the years, including 4 kids, the bungy cord is a great idea.
I appreciate it! the the bungee cord is definitely something super helpful.
Those rubber coated wire wraps that are used for wrapping cords and stuff works well too for hanging the caliper. A big one.
Great video, very useful. Thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks bro, good stuff.
Great video, 👍 thank you.
Just what I was looking for! Thanks
Glad I could help!
Very useful and very good video. Thank you very much.
Thank you , very instructive
I'm glad I could help👌
Good video. Great tips that most other videos miss.
I appreciate it!
Great video thank you
Glad you enjoyed it
Thank you
Sometimes when the breaker bar just won't move, I'll put an extension water pipe, or black gas pipe on the end for even more leverage and it will come off with less muscle strain.
i use to have a pipe like that... used it to smash out an old catalytic converter out of my old Audi.. broke the pipe though.
I had so much trouble getting those 21mm bolts off, even with a long breaker bar, I chose to put a 3"X3" length of pole under my breaker bar, which allowed me the leverage to loosen them. There also is a UA-cam video of a trick/trip, in using a nut/bolt system to easily get the rotor off, for those that don't come off easy.
Yeah an extension pipe is key, I use to have one but I mashed it hammering out an old cat. Was about 3' long worked so good. Now in a bind I use the handle from my jack.
When in doubt you can use heat but you need to be very careful you don't melt surrounding boots. Overall the brake job went well?
If your working on a 2017 and above F150 with Electric Parking Brake. This is the first thing you should do before you work you brakes and rotors is to put the vehicle in maintenance mode. If you don't this you will not be able to collapse the calibers.
is this also the case with Expeditions?
is this through the console (center) and through the menus?
Also rotors dont get replaced every brake pad job. As long as you arent running your pads all the way down to the backing you replace them every other time. Then the third time i always repalce all rotors, calipers and pads. Unless i am in a southern states with no road salt and wintery conditions rusting them out like crazy where the pistons will start seizing up/failing.
So how do you do that
2016 also. Learned this the hard way when I couldn't compress the piston on my brother's truck. After a quick google search, I found out what maintenance mode was.
thank you
Thanks
Damn good instructional video
I appreciate it!
Thank u
If I would’ve watched this before changing my front pads and rotors, I would not be disassembling them tomorrow morning to make some adjustments due to rubbing.
Very informative! Thank you.
Glad I could help! Was it easy to get your rotors easy to get off?
JozzieProductions Before or after I was whacking them with a 5lb sledgehammer? 🤣
@@Joe_S. hahah damn! How long before she popped?
JozzieProductions About 10-12 good swings. Lol.
When I do a lift job like this with my jack-stands, I always place a piece of 3/4 in plywood, (Good wood, not junk) under the stands. Some driveway paving, or the ground or even concrete, is not always as strong as you might think. Just sayin',,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, Mike
EXTREMELY HELPFUL !!
THANKS !!
BTW How are those Evolution pads holding up ?
They are holding up really well tbh, a lil dusty but I'd say much better than OEM.
Thank you so much for the clear and concise walkthrough.. ty .. Only one gripe… I’m trying to do both front and rear brake pads and rotor replacement on my 16 F150 lariat 4wd .. and I can’t find your video on the rears?? Any help would be greatly appreciated. I am a disabled vet and can’t afford to pay a stealership, oops I mean a shop, plus I have trust issues with these bigger shops who always try to up sell or talk so fast because your just another # to them.. sorry for the rant .. much love brother!
I try and explain as much as possible, I appreciate the comments. so maybe I need to do a rear pad replacement video then?
Thanks Everyone for the likes, Feedback and subs.. I will be doing more DIY stuff very soon along with a series of VLOGGING - New Camera is on ORDER!! If you haven't subbed * please do!* trying to hit my 1k goal 💪
I know on the Rear Brakes I had to go through the trucks program "Maintenance " setting before it let me compress the pistons. Did you have to do it for the Front too ???? Great Video also
@@chrisrojice7475 thanks for watching!
no, fronts are always good to go. At most some vehicles will have a pad sensor that needs to be replaced. As for rears that would be for the electric brake system, not the push petal. My Audi is like that I have to go in and retract the piston via OBD11
Thanks for the video, very informative. Do you have a link for the kit you purchased ?
I sure do,
This is the kit
www.amazon.ca/dp/B00AN5T8NM/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_-EnZEb2KS89MQ
Excellent video, so how did you know what foot pounds to use for those bolts? I'm just curious how I can find that kind of information out
Thanks, I just googled a pdf world shop manual for the truck. They give you part breakdowns and torque specs
Great video! One question, when compressing the piston, is it required to open the brake oil reservoir before doing do?
I always just loosen the lid up but don't forget you did.
"some people put the silicon on the back of the brake pads where the pistons touch, but I'm gonna take a chance." Don't take the chance. Just like the rotors rust and freeze to the hub, you can get the same on the piston surface and the back of the pad. If you do, and one of the pads pulls back when the piston retracts, you'll get a LOT of wear on the opposite pad. It's 30 seconds of adding a little lube on the back of the pads.
I can see that for something that sits for months on end, i personally have never seen that. All premium brake pad kits usually come with shims to prevent any noise.
I appreciate your doing the video, and it's better than nothing for sure! Just wish the lighting was far better. Good info though.
Yeah my bad for the lighting, I had to actually stop the job go do another job come back and go out all within the hour. since this video I've stepped up my video / lighting game with new gear.
Do you have to put the electronic brake in service/maintenance mode to replace just the front pads and rotors?
No, that would be only for the rears.
Am I correct saying you only have to put the truck in maintenance mode for replacement of the rear breaks?
Correct, if you have the electronic parking brake.
But why did you replace them ? My 2017 rotors have warped….got to have mine done. Thanks !
Yup, same thing.. they warped. The OEM ones dont seem to be that strong.
How did u compress the break caliber?I have a 2016 ford I could get the caliber to compress.
I used the old pad and a c clamp
I have took but either open master cylinder cap to allow back glow or use clear line attached to bleeder thats down in container with brake fluid. Slightly open bleeder and compress. once you compress piston close bleeder. No air will get in line and piston is easy to compress this way.
I have a 2020 f 150 4wd, does anyone have the torque specs for the front and rear caliper bolts, it has the electric parking brakes Thanks in advance
Tighten tighten then stop and then tighten just a little more then stop. If you think professional shops pull out the torque wrench every time and take the time to look up specks for every vehicle them you must be dreaming😄😄😄😄
100% FACTS
Just put a set of these on. Did your start showing rust within a few weeks?
On the serface If left overnight yeah, on the hub no. These have held up quite well. I'll do a shorts video on this soon and post an update. I'll probably do a quick video on the Lift kit / airbag install / update I did as well.
Quick question…I’ve seen videos were they bleed the brakes before they collapse the pistons to prevent break fluid from going back up. what’s your take on this?
I've also seen this.. TBH if you know what you are doing maybe.. but you can also suck in air doing this which would require a full system bleed. So in the end.. is it worth it?
@@JozzieProductions thanks for the swift reply and for sharing your take on this question.
chester wuz here
Would pushing brake fluid, by compressing the caliper pistons, I've been told that this can ruin the system. Would bleeding the fluid into a container with fluid to prevent air from backing into the caliper be best? Otherwise good info.
Never been told that in my life. I can't see how that's going to introduce air into the system or push air back to the master cylinder if there's none to begin with. If your system has been bled properly then you are good to go. Only time I've ever cracked the bleeder on a caliper is when the caliper was seized.
I have been told that compressing the caliper with new model cars can brake the abs module due to the back pressure flowing into it. Seemed like a common thing for economy cars though. Was told to open bleeder valve when compressing the piston
Doing that may Introduce air into your system. Personally sometimes with a caliper that won't move, I'll crack the bleeder.. but you'll have to bleed the system after doing so. Also with most newer cars you will likely have to get a program to cycle your abs module to prevent trapped air.
I open the brake reservoir , remove some brake fluid , then compress the cylinder , making sure when i'm done to replace the brake fluid in the reservoir !
Very simple, yes on the newer Ford F150s you can damage master cylinder with extreme back pressure from retracting pistons. Attack clear line to bleeder run it into small spray bottle with brake fluid abt 1/2 full. Make sure the end of line is dn in fluid. Compress away no way air can get in lines. Its what the pros do at Ford.
What happened to putting the vehicle in service mode to push the piston in?
You don't need to do that with fronts.. rear yes with electronic e brake.
Any other tips on getting my rotor off?
A lil bit of heat and a good sized hammer, they can be a reallllllll bitch. Use some PB blaster and let it soak.
Do you need to bleed the brakes after doing this?
No because you are not opening the bleed valves on the calipers you dont need to. the only time you would need to is if you let your Master Cylinder run out of fluid or again opened a caliper bleed screw.
Do you not need to bleed the brakes after?
No? You're not opening the system so no air is being introduced to it.
This was a good video but, there is an outer and inner pad for the 2015 Ford 150, and the vehicle this video is displaying. The inner pad has two humps on it and the outer has none. The inner pad has two humps on it and the outer has none. If you put the inner pad on the outer it will lock the pad at an angle and damage the rotor once it burns through the brake lining. The inner pad has two humps on it and the outer has none.
Yessir you are correct, I did leave that out because I kinda thought fail proof. I wish I had more time to go into detail but thanks for adding that.
Thank you so much for sharing this. The Motorcraft pads came in a box in what appeared to be pairs, but weren’t.
Interesting, glad I could help. Next video I do will be rears / mechanical parking brake.
I don't see any "ears" on either of his pads. Wonder if "Powerstop" pads have no ears? Anyone know?
The ears only seem to be on OEM pads
Are you sure about 155 ft/lbs? That seems high for brake calipers.
F150 Front Brake Caliper Torque Specs : 24 ft-lbs
F150 Front Caliper Slide Pin Torque Specs : 27 ft-lbs
F150 Front Brake Bracket Torque Specs : 184 ft-lbs
What are those blue lights?
at the 6:23 mark?
Blue? The lights I'm using?
Those bracket bolts seem like a lot more than 150 ft lbs taking them off lol...
@Jeremy Hess Oh I meant when I took mine off with a breaker bar...they were on crazy tight.
@Jeremy Hess i appreciate you taking the time to tell people the tools i used or what to use but if you are going to do it at least be correct with your sizes.
i used a Snap on 15'' long handle 1/2'' ratchet.
That’s because they have red Loctite in them, I just found out.
I know it sounds excessive but I believe the correct torque on those bracket bolts are 184 ft lb.... Correct me if I'm wrong.
184ftlbs yeah
"wheel bolts"
Why do you guys always mention the motor size when doing a BRAKE job?? I don't understand ??
Because different vehicles require different parts based off engine sizes.
You did it wrong, the inner pad is supposed to have ears at the top of it ,
I don't see any "ears' on either of his pads. Wonder if "Powerstop" pads come without ears? Anyone know for sure?
No ears on the pads, correct
"You gotta be tough" "then maybe this isn't the job for you.." lol what a dweeb
Pretty sure no one said "you gotta be tough" but hey I appreciate your view and comment.
Thanks
Tanks for the video,,, I am working 💪 on it rigth now and I am sure I going to have a bit of pain on the assss getting the rotor out😬