Dear gawd, whatever they are paying you it's not enough. You got some sharp eyes. How the heck you keep track of all the squawks I have no idea. Also, the specific aircraft issues, FAA regs, removal/install techniques, parts ordering, and dealing with owners... I appreciate what you do. But wow, it seems thankless. I maintain my simple homebuilt and that in itself and ordeal. I can't imagine dealing with these complex aircraft. You deserve huge props for your knowledge and expertise.
I found my new favorite channel. I have been looking for this type of maintenance content for years. Thanks guys and please make more of this type of content in the future.
These videos are really good for aspiring A&P's to show what the nitty gritty GA A&P life is good. Keep up the good work wish I would have found your stuff sooner In regards to vacuuming in between cables or small areas I've found that getting a small hose and taping a bunch on one end until it's the diameter of the vacuum hose and shove it in there. That works great for me 👍
Props (ha!) on the transparency about how to sign off a complete annual with unairworthy discrepancies and how to resolve them. Not enough pilots know about this path much to their detriment.
Great video. Do a Cessna 310 video and it will be three hours long! LOL Seriously your videos are invaluable for us owners to understand the level of detail required to keep these old birds flying. Thanks
Really great video on how the inspection on an aircraft goes. I'm not a pilot but I enjoy watching all things aviation and I really appreciate the time you took to make it and the detail involved. Thank you!!!
At home depot or lowes you can get micro nozzle kits for vacuums, then get the adapter kit for the small hose and use ductape at the ends of the different fittings to seal up the joint even better so no loss of vacuum. I have a 1/4 nozzle thats awesome but mostly use the 5/8 one. Another method is get a big ass vacuum in there and blow it all out with an aircompressor with a long brake line on it for a nozzle.
Enjoy your content, been using Knipex for 15 years. Flat jaw channel locks are a must in any aircraft mechanics box. Double as amazing rivet squeezers in tight spaces... plus all the normal shit they do. Keep up the hard work, rgr!!
Thanks but I really only ran through the interior. He had to go through the whole plane and lube everything. We have found that of an interior is hard to remove like that… there’s a good chance lazy shops pull the bare minimum on floor panels and such
I was so happy when he cut the bolt . hahaha cut and replace the right way in. First time aviewer as I'm starting my a&p school here on the 25th in Las Vegas. Coming from working on BMW"S and can-am's Polaris Hondas and Kawsakis. This looks like its gonna be more fun . I'd also like to look into avionics and composites. btw excellent lighting and great explanations! subbed and noti on!
I'm an A&P/IA...I started at a Honda/yamaha dealer as a mechanic.in about 1987..later moved to aircraft, GA and airlines, lots of charter jets/turboprops. Now, I still like working on motorcycles and cars, but am happy to be contributing to the current a&p shortage. Aviation deserves it. Don't let anyone talk you into shoddy work, or sticking your neck out, liability wise.. they will try. I thought to myself sometimes: "I don't want to, and you can't make me!" Just find a more diplomatic way that that to convey your thoughts to the boss or customer. My airline work was contract work, so, they got some pretty blunt "nope, not me!" answers when they wanted something dumb, as I wasn't directly employed by them.
Have to use one those narrow fittings that usually come with the Vaccuum accessories. But you got to use some kind plastic bristle brushes first with some kind of safe to use cleaner to loosen up the crap. Park tools makes a nice brush used for getting between bicycle gear cassettes and also Muc Off makes a cool set of brushes for cleaning bicycles.
Dont forget you respirator when cleaning mouse poo ;) btw I use the RIDGID VT2534 kit but also have rigged different size clear flexible tubing I got at lowes and just attach them to 1 of the thinner shopvac adapters with a hose clamp and it works great for those awkward spots.
in 2015 I did a whole new interior on my 1975 C177 Cardinal RG under the supervision of my AI. I'm pretty sure it was the first time that the area under the floor had been cleaned in at least 30-years. For dry stuff, a thin nozzle on the vacuum worked, but a good deal of the crevices were gunked up with old hydraulic oil, pulley oil, etc. I made custom bent wire and nylon brushes and used a citrus based degreaser to loosen it, then many, many rags. Its a little upsetting to see how many aircraft mechanics cut corners or just do things that make it hard for the next person to fix. Good on you!!
Hi, nice content, just curious on the min. 7:33, the bonding straps damage on the fuel line, they should be installed with bare metal clamp against the metal tube or this rubber grip on the Adele clamp enhance the electrical conductivity.
@@aeromission9333 I remember thinking the same thing. Why a rubber clamp on a bond strap? Along time ago I took one of those clamps off to see. It had a metal contact area in the middle of the cushion. It is a specific beech part. That’s what I remember,, been a long time.
Keep up the good content. Interesting to see what happens at a shop... 👍 Maybe video the owner's reaction when you give him the bill.... that will be entertaining as well 🤣
I have just the thing for you! Go down to Home Cheapo and get some PVC fittings for the end of your shop vac, so that you can attach a length of garden hose. Use about 2-3 feet of flexible hose, with the end cut at a 45-degree angle. This will increase the air flow (vacuum) substantially, and the flexibility will allow you to “snake” the hose through any narrow openings or inspection panels.
Well my buddy was making $25 hourly at a United rentals shop fixing excavators. We both worked on uh60s in the army for 6 or so years. How much more do you think he’ll make going back into a&p? He’s going to get his cert soon. I will get my a&p before I get out.
I hope you didn’t rebuilt those brake cylinders yet. Recently replaced a couple of them bustards leaking on two different Bonanzas with a newer style cylinders. According to the guy worked for Beech for a while those are not worth the rebuilding, going to start leaking again really soon. And they are not fun to replace. That bolt goes head-outboard just like you assumed, there is no way to force it in head-inboard with cylinder in place, it’s not going to make that angle turn to straight direction ever. Also removed and installed one bladder on Bonanza. Was leaking from one of the nipples that is attached to the ridged line towards the fuselage. Simply was over tightened and cut through by the securing clamp. Good catch on that pinched leaking brake line👍🏻 Another cool video! Thanks
Looks like it had some extensive sheet metal repairs and I’m it looks like they replaced all the metal on the bottom. My guess is the sheetmetal guys through that bolt in there before they riveted it in and had a good laugh
I just got off the phone with a friend of mine that’s an AP mechanic for years he got his pilots license and now he’s flying the single engine turbo props for FedEx I think Cessna calls in a caravan he goes to a lot of small airports picks up packages in and then goes to either Memphis or Indianapolis to be sorted and reloaded and fly the same route back on loading Grace and peace man
I'm enjoying your vides. Coming from 20 years of working on military fighters and C-130s, I got a lot to learn about GA maintenance, and I'm in my mid 50s. I guess this old dog can learn new tricks.
Been there done that...!!!!! Liked the 56TC what a Hotrod !!!!! Duke engines sound the best !!!!! 380 hp Yeeehaawwww baby!!!!! Do require maintenance, and the owner needs to know that ahead of time .......
Thats one NASTY ASS Baron!! Thank God the owner is getting it some more serious maint! Glad to see young caring mechanics are coming into this field as you can tell there are alot of HACKS out there!
For vacuuming tight spaces I use a variety diameter of automotive heater hose to adapt down as far as I need- usually ends up being a fuel line diameter. It's okay for getting around corners too.
I was performing an annual years ago on a Blanca Viking that just got back from the Bahamas and when I took the carpet and wood up there was a significant amount of white powder in the belly of the plane. Took a day or two for me to put all the puzzles of the crime together.
@@aviationsquared1909 it wasn't baking soda think about it private plane comes lands at the airport on an island in the Caribbean stays for 5 days and then comes back has to check in in Miami land there and then go on up to the East Coast can you imagine a guy late at night down there on the island with a bag of not baking soda go under the plane the belly remove up inspection plate stuff the bag in there close inspection plate his buddy knows the plane's going to be in Miami goes there removes inspection plate gets the goods out but there's a lot of things that can snag a bag in the bottom of an airplane and spill it that's my scenario
@@aviationsquared1909 that was also over 40 years ago so that water is done going on the bridge and into the ocean. Probably in all a couple of tablespoons at least in different places under there I ended up just vacuuming it out and going on with the annual.
TIO-541-E1C4 engines from a Duke. Big turbos make that plane the fastest Baron in the sky. I would highly recommend to the owner to fix it right, fuel bladder and prop de-ice, or since it is for sale, I hope any prospective buyer sees this and reduces the offer to cover those items. I never saw a prop deice boot throw a lead off like that. But I have seen a broke lead or two. Might be a good idea to solder the wires onto the terminals, but I know they don't come that way.
Negative on the solder idea! There is a reason connectors are never soldered on airplanes: vibration. And in this case, relatively severe vibration. Solder has a bad habit of cracking at the wire/solder interface. Best bet is the (now hideously expensive) Amp 59250\59275 series crimpers. I bought a used pair of these when I built N36LV. They provide a near oxygen-free crimp to the bare wire and a solid secondary crimp to the wire’s insulation. You can still find them used on eBay and ship them back to Amp for calibration. Never had a single failure.
I’ve seen people solder the crimped side of the terminal, not the wire side. It helps prevent corrosion, and may have kept the wires from pulling through in this case. So it’s crimped, soldered on terminal side, then heat shrinked. If it comes off after that 😂……. Not really sure of the rules and regs on the prop though, we will let a prop shop handle all of that…. I love been thinking that the pulled through wires may have been caused by someone pinching them while installing the spinner….. like “hey this won’t go on all the way… let me just force it !”
@@aviationsquared1909 I just don't recall the terminals on those leads being soldered. If they come soldered from the manufacturer, why did they pull apart?
3 years for an STC. Must have been either the fault of money…or the FAA. I did a field approval for a wrong engine on an PA22, still only took 3-4 months of waiting. The stamps on the cylinders are likely from the cylinders being overhauled units, they were on their original engine at those positions. But not necessarily required to be there on the next engine
Very interesting to see what you look for - and how you dealt with what you found. Can you repair the fuel bladders, or are they strictly a replacement item? (Beech parts are like Porsche parts... the nine-digit part number is also the price). Nothing irritates me more than seeing the stuff you found inside this plane. I had to ask myself as I watched this video; how many times did I climb into someone else's airplane and fly or instruct in it, not knowing what hid under the floor? Although I've retired, I subscribed to your channel. VERY interesting! I'm also a former owner of a 56TC, serial # TG2.
Not many left flying. Repairing fuel bladders is probably possible, but no one in our shop has any knowledge of how to do it. Would definitely want to learn how if the opportunity presents itself. A lot of knowledge and information is retiring out of the work force and finding a good A&P to train under is becoming difficult
Where do you get tech data for that? Labor cost would be the same for removal and installation, so I guess you wouldn’t know if you “could” repair it until it’s removed
*Did you replace or spray lubricant on the mixture cable to free the full movement? *After vacuuming the FOD and poop, are you coating the aluminium with cabrium chromate (green corrosion protection)? *That was good thinking placing a screw cap on the connection and air-leak testing. 🐝💨🧑🔧
Mixture cable had no cotter pin and the nut was too tight. Also we re indexed it one tooth and that freed it up Not sure about the coating question. There’s a much longer list of squawks that they’ll go over with the owners
OMG!! What a freakin' disaster! Mouse crap, FOD everywhere, cracks, leaks. The fact that someone was flying this crate is bloody scary. They owe you their lives!
LOL. I crewed Hueys and I refilled my grease gun 2 or 3 times a month. Grease liberally and often. But that was helicopters and grease is really cheap.
These airplanes are real hotrod! Flew around 500 hrs in one...never had any problems with...always started in 3- 6 blades; and could climb over 30 k feet easy..but flt plan for 42 gal/hr...planes name was big gulp....
20:15 even on camera you could tell just by looking at that fitting it was leaking. Did this plane fly in? lol On a prayer if it did. Or was this out of annual. Looks like a barn find lol.
@@aviationsquared1909 my god. That’s insane. It’s getting so bad man. I deal with a lot of new homeowners they don’t even know how to turn a screwdriver. I just couldn’t imagine operating something and not knowing the systems and how they work and to fix. And who did the last annual? Ray Charles? Like how can someone let so many things go. Especially on something like an airplane. Lol.
20 years of fixed and rotary wing maintenance in the military plus 14 as an A&P after I retired, boltheads are up, inboard and forward unless called out in the maintenance manual. 18 inch rule applies or within the space your working for FOD, even brand new from the factory can have some doozies laying around inside and age plus varying maintenance doesn't help.
Around a 1-ft length of hydraulic tube or fuel line aluminum pipe neck it down actually neck it up to go into the end of the vacuum tube and use it as a nozzle for small places.
Who ever says knipex is not for maintenance has never touch a plane or done any maintenance ever. Leather man, yes, but they are the least likely tool to strip out anything, and the most useful tool in my toolbox.
Every time I consider a twin engine, I run through the fuel, overhaul reserve and insurance costs. Guess that's nothing compared to these types of squawks.
Another question I got the AP mechanics that I know personally or also licensed pilots are you a licensed pilot so you would have a back up plan Grace and peace man
I’ll ask in the morning… but I think we’d defer you to a shop in Missouri? Oklahoma? Somewhere out there is a shop who specializes on these birds, but we’ve pulled wings on several aircraft
Checking the wing bolt torque is part of the inspection checklist... Also, the American Bonanza Society has really good manual on Bonanza/Baron gear inspection you can download for free. It really helps when swinging beech gear.
What's so sad is this is the same deal for commercial and corporate as well. I've come across so many panels that had been 'rubber nutted' it's sickening
17:55 man, before I became a pilot I worked as a mechanic and I had to teach many apprentices why this was stupid! Apparently common sense ain’t common
If you are not an authorized Beechcraft repair station, the next time this Barron visits one, all the work you did will be for naught. They will re-inspect and redo any work you did. And charge appropriately, or at least appropriate to their rates. I owned an A56TC and almost got caught in that. I had a friend that worked at the shop and basically told me my plane may be flagged as unairworthy. Please compare the specs of a 56TC to any similar airplane of the time and you will see it was the top of the line. They require attention and they are expensive, but from a business point of view, they could be the best tool available, maybe the only one available that would actually do the job.
Of course the cirrus and Grumman get the same shop rate. I’ve built my business on this motto. Because so many guys go into bigger houses and charge more because they think they have more money. Which is morally wrong and also not always the case. However I may expect different rates for different power plants?
They do have what is known as a crevice tool that goes on the end of the vacume hose. Gads! How old is that bird??? There is no excuse for all of that trash to accumulate in those hidden areas. That mouse crap and piss can be VERY CORROSIVE to aluminum which can eventually lead to metal failure. As for the pulleys considering if the aircraft was over 15 years old I would have shotguned all of them with new ones but I would hate to see what Beech gets for those items. Its about as bad as buying replacement parts for HUMMV's new from the suppliers, anything with a NSN number or TSO certified carries a hefty pricetag.
Hmmm. 91-205 and 213 doesn't let you skip things at annual. Neither of those tells you you need brakes..or even a working elevator.. 43 appendix d specifically tells you to inspect anti-icing devices. Placarding certain things inop can let you fly the aircraft, but doesn't mean you can overlook it come annual or 100hr time. The MEL is misnamed, it's not minimum equipment, it's really what can be broken under certain conditions, that you may continue to operate with, possibly with major restrictions..maybe only 1 flight, or for a specified time, or VFR only, or no passengers...who knows. The limitations depend on the aircraft, even the "ops specs" of the operator. I've never seen an MEL for a baron, but maybe they exist. More of a jet thing. It is helpful, because without an mel, most everything should be working..the mel lets you keep going legally with certain failures. For annuals and 100hr., I consider both 43 apx "d", and the manufacturers checklist. Mostly, satisfying one covers the other, but I do make sure. Pain in the ass. I worked on a 56tc about 20 yrs ago, it was sort of a mess, also. I wonder if it's the same one. Less than 100 made. Good idea Beech...using a lycoming. To bad they picked that particular Lycoming. The 541. A 540-j2bd would have made a better plane, if a bit slower. Have fun with those bladders.. I've welded a bunch of those steps. I put a little doubler on, seems to help. Where the teardrop tubing meets the L shaped piece, I mean.
Lol. Just me working on it 2 day alone. Then 5 guys, ran through wheels tires, exterior panels, ELT check, garter filters, battery cap checks, AD research in a day. So it would probably take one really experienced guy about a week and a half. Plus, we didn’t fix fuel bladders, or the prop
Vacuum= Harbor Freight knapsack bag vacuum powered by pneumatic line.....as long as you have shop air, it is 3X stronger than a good shop vac. I would NOT sign that plane off with that level of corrosion without serious treatment/metal replacement.- An A&P viewer.
Log book entry goes like this: This aircraft was inspected I/A/W a annual inspection and, a signed and dated list of un-airworthy items and discrepancies was provided for the owner .......... Stating that the aircraft is un airworthy is the wrong thing to write in a logbook. The word "aircraft " covers airframe, engine, prop and appliances.
I would also NOT grind that brake piece with the gouge down and call it good UNLESS the SRM specifically denotes allowable depth. Airworthiness item....Floorboard, I would replace with 2024 sheet metal panel with inspection holes pre machined.
Polished. Not grinded. IAs referenced Ac43.13 and deemed serviceable as the maintenance manual was written in 1965 and doesn’t cover things like acceptable scratches on components like that
I have not been involved in "General Aviation" in many years. Your IA's explanation at 25:44 is unclear to me. How does one accomplish the three following things simultaneously: signing off an annual inspection as complete, and documenting that the airplane is in an "un-airworthy condition" and have the owner fly the airplane? The Barron has an "Airworthiness Certificate" that Beechcraft provided with the original delivery stating this Barron conformed to the required manufacturing standards when the FAA granted Beechcraft approval to manufacture the airplane. The leaking fuel bladder was not part of that approval process. The FAA never granted Beechcraft the authority to deliver this (or any) Barron with a fuel leak. The sharp A&P discovers a leak in the fuel bladder and documents that leak. As a result of this discovery and logging the fuel leak, this Barron no longer conforms to the requirements of the original Airworthiness Certificate. And, as such, is prohibited from flying because it is "un-airworthy". Unless there is a minimum equipment list (MEL) associated with this aircraft that may provide some relief, how does anybody then legally "fly" this aircraft without going through the special "ferry flight" permitting process? If the owner, or anybody else, decides to take the airplane flying with a signed off annual inspection completed AND a list of discrepancies, including this leaking fuel bladder with the statement that the airplane is in an UN-AIRWORTHY condition doesn't that violate Part 91 and likely invalidate liability/hull loss insurance policy the owner has (should have)? I understand the fact that the owner can get any A&P to repair and sign off the discrepancies and it does not need to be this shop/A&P/IA Inspector. But, how does this Barron FLY legally with a "known discrepancy", the leaking fuel bladder, which is an airworthiness item and documented in the airframe logbook without MEL relief or a "ferry permit"? What is wrong with my analysis, and can you clear this up for me? Great video by the way and you earned another subscriber - thank you. Respectfully,
That’s a lot to absorb.. I won’t be able to answer everything satisfactory for you as I’m a newbie A&P… but I’d recommend you listen to Mike Busch. Also, throw away anything you learned in commercial airlines for GA part 91. We sign off the annual, because we did the inspection to completion. The aircraft is unworthy, there is a list of squawks in the logbooks. At that point it is the owners responsibility to repair the aircraft, and get A&ps to do the work. In GA there’s a lot of guys with a trailer full of tools that will come to you. So if the owner flies that plane and something bad happens, or the owner doesn’t fix, and another person flies the plane. The blame is on the owner
@@aviationsquared1909 Again, thank you for your time in making these excellent videos and for answering the question. You are a professional and your time is valuable. I'm not sure who "Mike Busch" is or how I "listen" to him. Does he have a separate UA-cam channel, podcast or is he somebody else on this channel? I just "found" Aviation Squared" today, so I am a new subscriber. I've got an A & P but have not used it in decades. When I watched the above video I was questioning the LEGALITY of anybody flying the airplane with a known and documented discrepancy. The part about signing off the annual as being completed, with a list of discrepancies some of which are airworthiness items is not confusing at all. However, the part about the airplane then being legally able to fly without mentioning either a ferry permit or MEL relief "seems" wrong, but then again I am not active on the maintenance side of aviation. Congratulations on your excellent UA-cam channel, it should do very well! You have great content, great video, good explanations and your videos are just the perfect length!
@@apackwestbound5946 Your correct in thinking the aircraft cannot be flow with an un-airworthy result in an Annual inspection. The discrepancies need to be fixed before the aircraft can be flown. A special airworthiness certificate can be applied for at the local FAA FSDO. Though they would ask why you need a ferry permit. A leaking fuel tank is not something they would allow. If the owner flies the aircraft with an un-airworthy sign off, he is in violation of the FAR’s.
Whoever was maintaining this aircraft before it came to your shop was clearly not doing their job. The amount of crud and FOD under the floor was shocking.
Dear gawd, whatever they are paying you it's not enough. You got some sharp eyes. How the heck you keep track of all the squawks I have no idea. Also, the specific aircraft issues, FAA regs, removal/install techniques, parts ordering, and dealing with owners... I appreciate what you do. But wow, it seems thankless. I maintain my simple homebuilt and that in itself and ordeal. I can't imagine dealing with these complex aircraft. You deserve huge props for your knowledge and expertise.
I found my new favorite channel. I have been looking for this type of maintenance content for years. Thanks guys and please make more of this type of content in the future.
These videos are really good for aspiring A&P's to show what the nitty gritty GA A&P life is good. Keep up the good work wish I would have found your stuff sooner
In regards to vacuuming in between cables or small areas I've found that getting a small hose and taping a bunch on one end until it's the diameter of the vacuum hose and shove it in there. That works great for me 👍
ThankYou
Props (ha!) on the transparency about how to sign off a complete annual with unairworthy discrepancies and how to resolve them. Not enough pilots know about this path much to their detriment.
YUPPERS
I love the videos. So organized and structured. I wish I had that level of knowledge in some area.
Keep sharing!
I just wanna say you guys do amazing work; the attention to detail is great.
I love the video content, you guys are good and professional to get it done. I appreciate you guys knowledge!
Great video. Do a Cessna 310 video and it will be three hours long! LOL Seriously your videos are invaluable for us owners to understand the level of detail required to keep these old birds flying. Thanks
3 hrs..O...k. sure...
If you old enough..that's what the Skipper said to his USS Minnow Passengers & Gilligan' :-)
Really great video on how the inspection on an aircraft goes. I'm not a pilot but I enjoy watching all things aviation and I really appreciate the time you took to make it and the detail involved. Thank you!!!
At home depot or lowes you can get micro nozzle kits for vacuums, then get the adapter kit for the small hose and use ductape at the ends of the different fittings to seal up the joint even better so no loss of vacuum. I have a 1/4 nozzle thats awesome but mostly use the 5/8 one. Another method is get a big ass vacuum in there and blow it all out with an aircompressor with a long brake line on it for a nozzle.
My dad had one in the 80s. He loved it then got rid of it for a B60 Duke
Enjoy your content, been using Knipex for 15 years. Flat jaw channel locks are a must in any aircraft mechanics box. Double as amazing rivet squeezers in tight spaces... plus all the normal shit they do. Keep up the hard work, rgr!!
This was my first video I have watched on your channel and must say I’m very impressed.
Great in depth video, loved it. You had a sharp eye and basically caught everything, nothing for the IA to add!
Thanks but I really only ran through the interior. He had to go through the whole plane and lube everything.
We have found that of an interior is hard to remove like that… there’s a good chance lazy shops pull the bare minimum on floor panels and such
Great job man ! Wish I could get my guys to be this good at their job.
I was so happy when he cut the bolt . hahaha cut and replace the right way in. First time aviewer as I'm starting my a&p school here on the 25th in Las Vegas. Coming from working on BMW"S and can-am's Polaris Hondas and Kawsakis. This looks like its gonna be more fun . I'd also like to look into avionics and composites. btw excellent lighting and great explanations! subbed and noti on!
I'm an A&P/IA...I started at a Honda/yamaha dealer as a mechanic.in about 1987..later moved to aircraft, GA and airlines, lots of charter jets/turboprops.
Now, I still like working on motorcycles and cars, but am happy to be contributing to the current a&p shortage. Aviation deserves it.
Don't let anyone talk you into shoddy work, or sticking your neck out, liability wise.. they will try.
I thought to myself sometimes: "I don't want to, and you can't make me!"
Just find a more diplomatic way that that to convey your thoughts to the boss or customer.
My airline work was contract work, so, they got some pretty blunt "nope, not me!" answers when they wanted something dumb, as I wasn't directly employed by them.
Have to use one those narrow fittings that usually come with the Vaccuum accessories. But you got to use some kind plastic bristle brushes first with some kind of safe to use cleaner to loosen up the crap. Park tools makes a nice brush used for getting between bicycle gear cassettes and also Muc Off makes a cool set of brushes for cleaning bicycles.
Dont forget you respirator when cleaning mouse poo ;) btw I use the RIDGID VT2534 kit but also have rigged different size clear flexible tubing I got at lowes and just attach them to 1 of the thinner shopvac adapters with a hose clamp and it works great for those awkward spots.
in 2015 I did a whole new interior on my 1975 C177 Cardinal RG under the supervision of my AI. I'm pretty sure it was the first time that the area under the floor had been cleaned in at least 30-years. For dry stuff, a thin nozzle on the vacuum worked, but a good deal of the crevices were gunked up with old hydraulic oil, pulley oil, etc. I made custom bent wire and nylon brushes and used a citrus based degreaser to loosen it, then many, many rags. Its a little upsetting to see how many aircraft mechanics cut corners or just do things that make it hard for the next person to fix. Good on you!!
You guys are awesome!
I have a set of different lengths and diameter silicone hoses that I fit into plugs for the vacuum hose to get into tight spots.
Hi, nice content, just curious on the min. 7:33, the bonding straps damage on the fuel line, they should be installed with bare metal clamp against the metal tube or this rubber grip on the Adele clamp enhance the electrical conductivity.
Above my knowledge, I’m with you on the rubber lol. I’ll ask in the morning, keep commenting if you don’t hear back as I’ll forget
100% Correct! Using a rubber cushioned adel defeats the purpose of bonding.
@@aeromission9333 I remember thinking the same thing. Why a rubber clamp on a bond strap? Along time ago I took one of those clamps off to see. It had a metal contact area in the middle of the cushion. It is a specific beech part. That’s what I remember,, been a long time.
Keep up the good content. Interesting to see what happens at a shop... 👍
Maybe video the owner's reaction when you give him the bill.... that will be entertaining as well 🤣
People say NO knipex in aviation maintenance?? Have they never worked on an airplane before??
A 56TC cool!!!! The only Barons we see are 55's and lately we've had a run of 58p's we had lately. Have fun with those TIO 541'S.
Good stuff here ....Thanks for sharing
I have just the thing for you! Go down to Home Cheapo and get some PVC fittings for the end of your shop vac, so that you can attach a length of garden hose. Use about 2-3 feet of flexible hose, with the end cut at a 45-degree angle. This will increase the air flow (vacuum) substantially, and the flexibility will allow you to “snake” the hose through any narrow openings or inspection panels.
Well my buddy was making $25 hourly at a United rentals shop fixing excavators. We both worked on uh60s in the army for 6 or so years. How much more do you think he’ll make going back into a&p? He’s going to get his cert soon. I will get my a&p before I get out.
Really great video
I hope you didn’t rebuilt those brake cylinders yet. Recently replaced a couple of them bustards leaking on two different Bonanzas with a newer style cylinders. According to the guy worked for Beech for a while those are not worth the rebuilding, going to start leaking again really soon.
And they are not fun to replace. That bolt goes head-outboard just like you assumed, there is no way to force it in head-inboard with cylinder in place, it’s not going to make that angle turn to straight direction ever.
Also removed and installed one bladder on Bonanza. Was leaking from one of the nipples that is attached to the ridged line towards the fuselage. Simply was over tightened and cut through by the securing clamp.
Good catch on that pinched leaking brake line👍🏻
Another cool video! Thanks
Looks like it had some extensive sheet metal repairs and I’m it looks like they replaced all the metal on the bottom. My guess is the sheetmetal guys through that bolt in there before they riveted it in and had a good laugh
@@aviationsquared1909 yeah, I’ve noticed a couple new rivets in the nose wheel well. Liked that laugh over the bolt head cut out on the video =)
Yep, had a few Bonanzas in the shop of late that were leaking after rebuild. Don't think it's possible to get the old master cylinders anymore?
I just got off the phone with a friend of mine that’s an AP mechanic for years he got his pilots license and now he’s flying the single engine turbo props for FedEx I think Cessna calls in a caravan he goes to a lot of small airports picks up packages in and then goes to either Memphis or Indianapolis to be sorted and reloaded and fly the same route back on loading Grace and peace man
I'm enjoying your vides. Coming from 20 years of working on military fighters and C-130s, I got a lot to learn about GA maintenance, and I'm in my mid 50s. I guess this old dog can learn new tricks.
Professional service well done
Been there done that...!!!!! Liked the 56TC what a Hotrod !!!!!
Duke engines sound the best !!!!! 380 hp Yeeehaawwww baby!!!!!
Do require maintenance, and the owner needs to know that ahead of time .......
Great video! As always and did you see the new snap on flip flop??👀
Thats one NASTY ASS Baron!! Thank God the owner is getting it some more serious maint! Glad to see young caring mechanics are coming into this field as you can tell there are alot of HACKS out there!
I’m glad that I can recommend people to come out and get you guys to take care of their annual inspections so let me know
For vacuuming tight spaces I use a variety diameter of automotive heater hose to adapt down as far as I need- usually ends up being a fuel line diameter. It's okay for getting around corners too.
A wooden wing and fabric covering. Cool plane!
My old Massey Ferguson tractor and that Baron are just about the same level of nastiness.
I was performing an annual years ago on a Blanca Viking that just got back from the Bahamas and when I took the carpet and wood up there was a significant amount of white powder in the belly of the plane. Took a day or two for me to put all the puzzles of the crime together.
What did it smell like 😂
@@aviationsquared1909 it wasn't baking soda think about it private plane comes lands at the airport on an island in the Caribbean stays for 5 days and then comes back has to check in in Miami land there and then go on up to the East Coast can you imagine a guy late at night down there on the island with a bag of not baking soda go under the plane the belly remove up inspection plate stuff the bag in there close inspection plate his buddy knows the plane's going to be in Miami goes there removes inspection plate gets the goods out but there's a lot of things that can snag a bag in the bottom of an airplane and spill it that's my scenario
@@aviationsquared1909 that was also over 40 years ago so that water is done going on the bridge and into the ocean. Probably in all a couple of tablespoons at least in different places under there I ended up just vacuuming it out and going on with the annual.
Ok Pablo Escobar!!! 😉
Was there enough white powder left to pay for the annual ????
Good episode!
ThankYou!! 🙏
Going between those cables id usually use the corner cleaner attatchment when cleaning out airplanes
Good idea
I've spent years working on Beech twins and have always pressure injected these controls with a Teflon lube.
TIO-541-E1C4 engines from a Duke. Big turbos make that plane the fastest Baron in the sky. I would highly recommend to the owner to fix it right, fuel bladder and prop de-ice, or since it is for sale, I hope any prospective buyer sees this and reduces the offer to cover those items. I never saw a prop deice boot throw a lead off like that. But I have seen a broke lead or two. Might be a good idea to solder the wires onto the terminals, but I know they don't come that way.
Negative on the solder idea! There is a reason connectors are never soldered on airplanes: vibration. And in this case, relatively severe vibration. Solder has a bad habit of cracking at the wire/solder interface. Best bet is the (now hideously expensive) Amp 59250\59275 series crimpers. I bought a used pair of these when I built N36LV. They provide a near oxygen-free crimp to the bare wire and a solid secondary crimp to the wire’s insulation. You can still find them used on eBay and ship them back to Amp for calibration. Never had a single failure.
I’ve seen people solder the crimped side of the terminal, not the wire side. It helps prevent corrosion, and may have kept the wires from pulling through in this case. So it’s crimped, soldered on terminal side, then heat shrinked. If it comes off after that 😂……. Not really sure of the rules and regs on the prop though, we will let a prop shop handle all of that….
I love been thinking that the pulled through wires may have been caused by someone pinching them while installing the spinner….. like “hey this won’t go on all the way… let me just force it !”
Also where do you get that connections are never soldered? Ac43.131-B. Section 14, sub A, #7 talks about using soldered lugs for terminals
@@aviationsquared1909 I just don't recall the terminals on those leads being soldered. If they come soldered from the manufacturer, why did they pull apart?
I’m responding to B walker…
A slight major fuel leak.
Is that like a partial total engine failure?
It’s fatal, but not completely fatal
I wanna know what happened with the wooden floor!! And if they had to make them if they where made outtta un-obtaium
Yeah it sucked. We found an alternative and made sure is was ac43.13 approved materials
All that FOD, I know a Mr. Truitt whod be super proud 🥰
Good work. Just be careful vacuuming rat poop without a hepa filter or N95 as there are a few diseases that can be spread that way,some fatal.
Most informative...
Kenny Powers reference wasn’t lost on me.
3 years for an STC. Must have been either the fault of money…or the FAA.
I did a field approval for a wrong engine on an PA22, still only took 3-4 months of waiting.
The stamps on the cylinders are likely from the cylinders being overhauled units, they were on their original engine at those positions. But not necessarily required to be there on the next engine
Makes sense. The 3 year gap was before my time in aviation. I’m more video experience than aviation experience 😂
Very interesting to see what you look for - and how you dealt with what you found. Can you repair the fuel bladders, or are they strictly a replacement item? (Beech parts are like Porsche parts... the nine-digit part number is also the price). Nothing irritates me more than seeing the stuff you found inside this plane. I had to ask myself as I watched this video; how many times did I climb into someone else's airplane and fly or instruct in it, not knowing what hid under the floor? Although I've retired, I subscribed to your channel. VERY interesting! I'm also a former owner of a 56TC, serial # TG2.
Not many left flying. Repairing fuel bladders is probably possible, but no one in our shop has any knowledge of how to do it. Would definitely want to learn how if the opportunity presents itself. A lot of knowledge and information is retiring out of the work force and finding a good A&P to train under is becoming difficult
There are times where a repair on a fuel bladder is possible and preferable over replacement.
Where do you get tech data for that? Labor cost would be the same for removal and installation, so I guess you wouldn’t know if you “could” repair it until it’s removed
Hey, I know that Baron as I was looking to buy it. Would love to know more on what you are finding. I know 56TC's as I did own one before.
*Did you replace or spray lubricant on the mixture cable to free the full movement?
*After vacuuming the FOD and poop, are you coating the aluminium with cabrium chromate (green corrosion protection)?
*That was good thinking placing a screw cap on the connection and air-leak testing.
🐝💨🧑🔧
Mixture cable had no cotter pin and the nut was too tight. Also we re indexed it one tooth and that freed it up
Not sure about the coating question. There’s a much longer list of squawks that they’ll go over with the owners
Did they fly the airplane to your shop?
For vacuuming in tiny spaces I wrap an oil sample tube in tape until I can jam it into a normal vacuum hose.
You get a raise. Tell your boss I give you a raise
OMG!! What a freakin' disaster! Mouse crap, FOD everywhere, cracks, leaks. The fact that someone was flying this crate is bloody scary. They owe you their lives!
LOL. I crewed Hueys and I refilled my grease gun 2 or 3 times a month. Grease liberally and often. But that was helicopters and grease is really cheap.
I never had too much luck with easy outs. Snap on has a better one.
Is this. 1967 Model? There are not a lot of them out there for sale because of the cost of Mantinence
Yes it’s a 67
You need an air vac. Simple solution to getting in between the cables.
These airplanes are real hotrod! Flew around 500 hrs in one...never had any problems with...always started in 3- 6 blades; and could climb over 30 k feet easy..but flt plan for 42 gal/hr...planes name was big gulp....
20:15 even on camera you could tell just by looking at that fitting it was leaking. Did this plane fly in? lol On a prayer if it did. Or was this out of annual. Looks like a barn find lol.
Flew in
@@aviationsquared1909 my god. That’s insane. It’s getting so bad man. I deal with a lot of new homeowners they don’t even know how to turn a screwdriver. I just couldn’t imagine operating something and not knowing the systems and how they work and to fix. And who did the last annual? Ray Charles? Like how can someone let so many things go. Especially on something like an airplane. Lol.
20 years of fixed and rotary wing maintenance in the military plus 14 as an A&P after I retired, boltheads are up, inboard and forward unless called out in the maintenance manual. 18 inch rule applies or within the space your working for FOD, even brand new from the factory can have some doozies laying around inside and age plus varying maintenance doesn't help.
Around a 1-ft length of hydraulic tube or fuel line aluminum pipe neck it down actually neck it up to go into the end of the vacuum tube and use it as a nozzle for small places.
Good tip
As an airplane owner of older twins, I could feel the owner's bank account whimpering.
Who ever says knipex is not for maintenance has never touch a plane or done any maintenance ever. Leather man, yes, but they are the least likely tool to strip out anything, and the most useful tool in my toolbox.
What serial number was this 56TC?
Have you done an annual (Condition inspection) on an experimental?
Negative
How is it that we spend so much on aviation and yet everyone involved gets paid so little?
Cuz government, liability (trigger happy in some cases) and insurance.
⛷ ski money goes to the top
Prison planet. Peasants serving their masters.
How many man-hours for this annual?
I’d guess 60
Every time I consider a twin engine, I run through the fuel, overhaul reserve and insurance costs. Guess that's nothing compared to these types of squawks.
Another question I got the AP mechanics that I know personally or also licensed pilots are you a licensed pilot so you would have a back up plan Grace and peace man
3 of the other A&Ps here are pilots and CFIs. I hate flying so I’m not
On the master cylinders, I pull snap ring, and pull out of body.
As an experienced IA, I consider these to be more of an annual inspection of the planes owners wallet 😆 $$$$$$$$ easy money
A 56TC Baron is a rare bird ; nice to fly and it goes like hell on 45 gals per hour. It would not be fun to pay for that 50k annual however
Didn't see anything about the cost of the annual. Doubt it's anywhere near your estimation based on what they found. Impressive A&P.
Uuhhh, 30k all day long, and I know shops that would have gotten this close to 50
I have a 55 I take care of...it is a serious money maker every annual.
Do you have the wing bolt wrenches at your shop ?
I’ll ask in the morning… but I think we’d defer you to a shop in Missouri? Oklahoma? Somewhere out there is a shop who specializes on these birds, but we’ve pulled wings on several aircraft
Checking the wing bolt torque is part of the inspection checklist...
Also, the American Bonanza Society has really good manual on Bonanza/Baron gear inspection you can download for free. It really helps when swinging beech gear.
IA has the checklist. It’d be impossible for me to film all the little things like that.
What's so sad is this is the same deal for commercial and corporate as well. I've come across so many panels that had been 'rubber nutted' it's sickening
17:55 man, before I became a pilot I worked as a mechanic and I had to teach many apprentices why this was stupid! Apparently common sense ain’t common
If you are not an authorized Beechcraft repair station, the next time this Barron visits one, all the work you did will be for naught. They will re-inspect and redo any work you did. And charge appropriately, or at least appropriate to their rates. I owned an A56TC and almost got caught in that. I had a friend that worked at the shop and basically told me my plane may be flagged as unairworthy. Please compare the specs of a 56TC to any similar airplane of the time and you will see it was the top of the line. They require attention and they are expensive, but from a business point of view, they could be the best tool available, maybe the only one available that would actually do the job.
Of course the cirrus and Grumman get the same shop rate. I’ve built my
business on this motto. Because so many guys go into bigger houses and charge more because they think they have more money. Which is morally wrong and also not always the case.
However I may expect different rates for different power plants?
I meant it more in the way that, someone thinks they can afford a cheap airplane….. but then can’t afford good maintenance 😂
They do have what is known as a crevice tool that goes on the end of the vacume hose. Gads! How old is that bird???
There is no excuse for all of that trash to accumulate in those hidden areas. That mouse crap and piss can be VERY CORROSIVE to aluminum which can eventually lead to metal failure. As for the pulleys considering if the aircraft was over 15 years old I would have shotguned all of them with new ones but I would hate to see what Beech gets for those items.
Its about as bad as buying replacement parts for HUMMV's new from the suppliers, anything with a NSN number or TSO certified carries a hefty pricetag.
Hmmm. 91-205 and 213 doesn't let you skip things at annual. Neither of those tells you you need brakes..or even a working elevator..
43 appendix d specifically tells you to inspect anti-icing devices.
Placarding certain things inop can let you fly the aircraft, but doesn't mean you can overlook it come annual or 100hr time.
The MEL is misnamed, it's not minimum equipment, it's really what can be broken under certain conditions, that you may continue to operate with, possibly with major restrictions..maybe only 1 flight, or for a specified time, or VFR only, or no passengers...who knows. The limitations depend on the aircraft, even the "ops specs" of the operator. I've never seen an MEL for a baron, but maybe they exist. More of a jet thing. It is helpful, because without an mel, most everything should be working..the mel lets you keep going legally with certain failures.
For annuals and 100hr., I consider both 43 apx "d", and the manufacturers checklist. Mostly, satisfying one covers the other, but I do make sure. Pain in the ass.
I worked on a 56tc about 20 yrs ago, it was sort of a mess, also. I wonder if it's the same one. Less than 100 made.
Good idea Beech...using a lycoming. To bad they picked that particular Lycoming. The 541. A 540-j2bd would have made a better plane, if a bit slower.
Have fun with those bladders..
I've welded a bunch of those steps. I put a little doubler on, seems to help. Where the teardrop tubing meets the L shaped piece, I mean.
How much time did the annual take ( in days) for a 27min video. BTW, nice looking Baron and looks like you do great work.
Lol. Just me working on it 2 day alone. Then 5 guys, ran through wheels tires, exterior panels, ELT check, garter filters, battery cap checks, AD research in a day. So it would probably take one really experienced guy about a week and a half. Plus, we didn’t fix fuel bladders, or the prop
baron 56 uses the same engine the Duke has 541 its upside down ha!
This is the guy that lists his airplane for sale saying stuff like "fresh $20k annual"
Rare plane, that’s had a lot of sloppy past maintenance
Vacuum= Harbor Freight knapsack bag vacuum powered by pneumatic line.....as long as you have shop air, it is 3X stronger than a good shop vac. I would NOT sign that plane off with that level of corrosion without serious treatment/metal replacement.- An A&P viewer.
Look us up on Facebook and message me if you can
Log book entry goes like this: This aircraft was inspected I/A/W a annual inspection and, a signed and dated list of un-airworthy items and discrepancies was provided for the owner .......... Stating that the aircraft is un airworthy is the wrong thing to write in a logbook. The word "aircraft " covers airframe, engine, prop and appliances.
I would also NOT grind that brake piece with the gouge down and call it good UNLESS the SRM specifically denotes allowable depth. Airworthiness item....Floorboard, I would replace with 2024 sheet metal panel with inspection holes pre machined.
Polished. Not grinded. IAs referenced Ac43.13 and deemed serviceable as the maintenance manual was written in 1965 and doesn’t cover things like acceptable scratches on components like that
The Danny McBride of Aviation
I have not been involved in "General Aviation" in many years. Your IA's explanation at 25:44 is unclear to me. How does one accomplish the three following things simultaneously: signing off an annual inspection as complete, and documenting that the airplane is in an "un-airworthy condition" and have the owner fly the airplane? The Barron has an "Airworthiness Certificate" that Beechcraft provided with the original delivery stating this Barron conformed to the required manufacturing standards when the FAA granted Beechcraft approval to manufacture the airplane. The leaking fuel bladder was not part of that approval process. The FAA never granted Beechcraft the authority to deliver this (or any) Barron with a fuel leak. The sharp A&P discovers a leak in the fuel bladder and documents that leak. As a result of this discovery and logging the fuel leak, this Barron no longer conforms to the requirements of the original Airworthiness Certificate. And, as such, is prohibited from flying because it is "un-airworthy". Unless there is a minimum equipment list (MEL) associated with this aircraft that may provide some relief, how does anybody then legally "fly" this aircraft without going through the special "ferry flight" permitting process? If the owner, or anybody else, decides to take the airplane flying with a signed off annual inspection completed AND a list of discrepancies, including this leaking fuel bladder with the statement that the airplane is in an UN-AIRWORTHY condition doesn't that violate Part 91 and likely invalidate liability/hull loss insurance policy the owner has (should have)?
I understand the fact that the owner can get any A&P to repair and sign off the discrepancies and it does not need to be this shop/A&P/IA Inspector. But, how does this Barron FLY legally with a "known discrepancy", the leaking fuel bladder, which is an airworthiness item and documented in the airframe logbook without MEL relief or a "ferry permit"?
What is wrong with my analysis, and can you clear this up for me?
Great video by the way and you earned another subscriber - thank you.
Respectfully,
That’s a lot to absorb.. I won’t be able to answer everything satisfactory for you as I’m a newbie A&P… but I’d recommend you listen to Mike Busch. Also, throw away anything you learned in commercial airlines for GA part 91.
We sign off the annual, because we did the inspection to completion. The aircraft is unworthy, there is a list of squawks in the logbooks. At that point it is the owners responsibility to repair the aircraft, and get A&ps to do the work. In GA there’s a lot of guys with a trailer full of tools that will come to you. So if the owner flies that plane and something bad happens, or the owner doesn’t fix, and another person flies the plane. The blame is on the owner
@@aviationsquared1909 Again, thank you for your time in making these excellent videos and for answering the question. You are a professional and your time is valuable. I'm not sure who "Mike Busch" is or how I "listen" to him. Does he have a separate UA-cam channel, podcast or is he somebody else on this channel? I just "found" Aviation Squared" today, so I am a new subscriber. I've got an A & P but have not used it in decades. When I watched the above video I was questioning the LEGALITY of anybody flying the airplane with a known and documented discrepancy. The part about signing off the annual as being completed, with a list of discrepancies some of which are airworthiness items is not confusing at all. However, the part about the airplane then being legally able to fly without mentioning either a ferry permit or MEL relief "seems" wrong, but then again I am not active on the maintenance side of aviation.
Congratulations on your excellent UA-cam channel, it should do very well! You have great content, great video, good explanations and your videos are just the perfect length!
@@apackwestbound5946 Your correct in thinking the aircraft cannot be flow with an un-airworthy result in an Annual inspection. The discrepancies need to be fixed before the aircraft can be flown. A special airworthiness certificate can be applied for at the local FAA FSDO. Though they would ask why you need a ferry permit. A leaking fuel tank is not something they would allow. If the owner flies the aircraft with an un-airworthy sign off, he is in violation of the FAR’s.
Helluva deal
Whoever was maintaining this aircraft before it came to your shop was clearly not doing their job. The amount of crud and FOD under the floor was shocking.
Gotta love older manuals without specifics. Step 1: Fix the aircraft
Install in reverse order
😂. Yes I’ll just weld that bolt back together
Imagine paying your mechanic good money to clean your dirty ass plane before he can even start to inspect it.
Just make the floorboards yourself. Use the old ones for a pattern. Save the owner some money, and let you make a little too.
Looks like a $30K annual, at least.
Yeah, but he may drag it back to his hangar and have a trailer pirate do all the fixes. So that money gets spread thin as far as the A&P side
That oil leak looks squawky.