I'm just here because all the talk about "fixins" reminds me of Eastbound and Down. I've also never heard fasteners referred to as fixings until now. Learned something new so, thank you.
Brilliant, I don't know how the almighty algorithm knows but I needed a video just like this, got to anchor some 2x4s into concrete and didn't really understand the different types of fixing. The expanding metal sleeve type are the most commonly sold and used in my part of the world but now I know how the other types work too, the capsule type I'd heard about but it's the first time I've seen it in action. So ignore the guy saying the test was useless, it wasn't meant to be some scientific comparison, it's really helpful to see how each type works.
Thanks man appreciate that comment. Yeah the purpose of the video is to demonstrate to the average diy person how these anchors work so you can see them in action. Obviously anyone with half a brain cell knows not to drill into the edge of a concrete block to secure anything down lol 😂
This is a great video. Using a cut away really helps people understand the concept. The people who criticize do not understand that this is a demonstration and not where you would drill in real life. I had to get my wife to drill some dyna bolts the other day as I am in a wheelchair and this would have been a great way to show her how it works.
I didn’t watch the first version. But it must be very frustrating to lose all those views, likes and comments. I thought this was a a very good visual explanation of the various concrete fixings. I really enjoyed the added SFX and graphics highlights. It looks like you had a lot of fun putting the whole thing together. I like the drop in anchor, for some fixings, because it gives you a lot of control on the depth of the item being fixed. I’ve used the concrete bolt/screw for a lot of things and they are an amazing option. I’ve also used the Fischer capsule resin anchor which I also liked. If you buy the specific threaded rod from Fischer, it has a sharper point for crunching up the glass. They also do a setting tool for the SDS drill which makes setting the drop in anchor easier. One thing to mention is that some of these options have better corrosion resistance, which might be a factor for some use cases. For example you can get stainless steel drop-in anchors and use stainless steel threaded rod.
Hey, Thanks for the informative comment and positive feedback. Yeah taking the video down and re uploading it has impacted the video in a negative way In regards to click through rate and average view duration which means the algorithm will put the video out less, but I’d rather have less views and make sure the video is right.
With the 2 part chemical resin, you actually want to screw the stud into the hole so that it successfully encapsulated the thread. Pushing it in won't work as well. You also don't want to fill up the hole 100% as it needs to account for the volume of the thread. I typically go for 2/3 of the depth of the hole depending on the bolt diameter and that usually gives me a tiny bit of excess at the end, will save a fair bit of material and time removing excess in the long run, especially if doing lots of bolts! Great visual demonstrations
Not only are the resins very strong, as you mentioned... but a good, construction-grade epoxy (for instance, Hilti's) is stronger than the concrete. I knew an engineer who would NEVER specify J-bolts because the cold working weakened the steel and it was easier and stronger to epoxy the studs in place.
Are ones like sleeve anchors good for wet environments? I went with the blue primed tapcon bolt because it seemed the most water resistant, but I dont think they grip nearly as well. I like the idea of the resin ones tho, never seen em before
Great video, may I kindly suggest less is more when it comes to the sound effects and whatnot? Found it a little distracting personally. It's good to see people teaching how to actually clean a hole out properly. A lot of times people think it's over the top to blow out the dust and also use a little brush, but both actually do a different and important job. We did a lot of retro fixing reinforcement bar into concrete (1m long holes vertically) and the blowout process was painful as the dust can only come upwards which isn't as easy to deal with. (a) your face tends to be near the dust blowout, and that's a LOT of dust and you need to blow hard, and (b) it tends to fall back down. In the end I developed a process of using a powerful mains handheld vacuum with a 1m length of 8mm flexible hose, with the tip cut to an angle, then using an internal pipe-cleaner style brush on the end of a long dowel, then the dust blower, then repeat a few times. About 20 mins to clean each hole! But without that cleaning it simply wouldn't have been possible to fix in properly with resin....
I am impressed by how well you did the job of cleaning out the holes. From your claim to be "just a punter", I assume you are an amateur, and I am disappointed that no professional tradesman would have done such a good job.
If drilling holes in concrete was just as simple as presented here life would be a breeze. Concrete, and bricks, etc. comes in different strength, good luck to drill a hole in hard concrete with your combi drill, it can take 10-20 minutes, in some cases you just can't do it, where the SDS may need a minute or two. There is also the fact that the combi drill does not have the punch to crunch hard concrete so it is just grinding the hole, it is wearing out the drill-bit fast, the SDS have much more punching power to crunch the concrete and the drill-bit will last much longer but not forever, even quality SDS drill-bit wear out. Btw, after the brushing of the hole you blow it out too, just saying.
Ive always used porcupine snot and a pocket slot.. i guess you called it chemical something or another and sleeve anchor.. boss always called it snot and slots.. is what i write on the material order sheets also.. given the sds drill they call hammer holer and bolts are called hold fasts. Now that i think about it my boss has never called me by name.. he always calls me fucker.. and i always called him old man or old fuck depending on his mood..
The most useless test. The fact that you don't drill in a whole brick and have no equipment to make a pulling test but just drilling right in to the edge and securing with a slim piece of polycarb is absolutely hilarious, brick gets damaged before you manage to put an Anker in it.
What’s an ‘Anker’….never heard of an Anker before…oh, do you mean that manufacturer of battery pack back up systems, yes I’m sure they are called Anker.
Fundamentally irrelevant testing of completely unrealistic conditions. You drill anything that close to an edge and it's going to crumble instantly because that's how concrete works.
@@mikebolt9753 True, but there is things to take into consideration when drilling holes close to the edge, different anchor manufactures have different recommendations on what minimum distance you must keep to the edge, same with regards to how close you can place the holes.
@@K2teknik. he drilled it that close so we can see what's going on inside the hole. Most of us weren't born with X-Ray vision. If you need to put an anchor on the edge like this you'd better rethink what you're doing.
@@1pcfred I know, he also tells so in the video too. I am just pointing out that there are limits to where you can place your holes, and I do it because I know that many people do not know this and may place holes to close to each other, or to the edge. It is also worth to mention that you should really read the manufactures instructions/guidelines (concrete/drill/drill-bits-anchors), sometimes there is gold to pickup there regarding how/when to use their product and/or when not to use their product. For a one off diy project with a few anchors it may not matte that much in time/money, but in some cases it will matter if you plan/investigate stuff beforehand, time and money spend can differ drastically depending on the strength of the concrete and the strength needed for the fastening.
I'm just here because all the talk about "fixins" reminds me of Eastbound and Down. I've also never heard fasteners referred to as fixings until now. Learned something new so, thank you.
I'm going with bacon.
All the fixins!
Brilliant, I don't know how the almighty algorithm knows but I needed a video just like this, got to anchor some 2x4s into concrete and didn't really understand the different types of fixing. The expanding metal sleeve type are the most commonly sold and used in my part of the world but now I know how the other types work too, the capsule type I'd heard about but it's the first time I've seen it in action. So ignore the guy saying the test was useless, it wasn't meant to be some scientific comparison, it's really helpful to see how each type works.
Thanks man appreciate that comment. Yeah the purpose of the video is to demonstrate to the average diy person how these anchors work so you can see them in action. Obviously anyone with half a brain cell knows not to drill into the edge of a concrete block to secure anything down lol 😂
The algorithm knows because of that brain implant you received. Of course, your memory of that operation was erased.
This is a great video. Using a cut away really helps people understand the concept. The people who criticize do not understand that this is a demonstration and not where you would drill in real life. I had to get my wife to drill some dyna bolts the other day as I am in a wheelchair and this would have been a great way to show her how it works.
Well said. Thanks for the comment. I'm glad the video is useful to some people :)
first class production, great learnings, thank you
Glad you enjoyed it!
I didn’t watch the first version. But it must be very frustrating to lose all those views, likes and comments. I thought this was a a very good visual explanation of the various concrete fixings. I really enjoyed the added SFX and graphics highlights. It looks like you had a lot of fun putting the whole thing together. I like the drop in anchor, for some fixings, because it gives you a lot of control on the depth of the item being fixed. I’ve used the concrete bolt/screw for a lot of things and they are an amazing option. I’ve also used the Fischer capsule resin anchor which I also liked. If you buy the specific threaded rod from Fischer, it has a sharper point for crunching up the glass. They also do a setting tool for the SDS drill which makes setting the drop in anchor easier. One thing to mention is that some of these options have better corrosion resistance, which might be a factor for some use cases. For example you can get stainless steel drop-in anchors and use stainless steel threaded rod.
Hey, Thanks for the informative comment and positive feedback. Yeah taking the video down and re uploading it has impacted the video in a negative way In regards to click through rate and average view duration which means the algorithm will put the video out less, but I’d rather have less views and make sure the video is right.
This was perfect timing for me, and you did great... thanks
Appreciate that. Thanks for the feedback.
Nice animations and demonstrations! Thanks
With the 2 part chemical resin, you actually want to screw the stud into the hole so that it successfully encapsulated the thread. Pushing it in won't work as well.
You also don't want to fill up the hole 100% as it needs to account for the volume of the thread. I typically go for 2/3 of the depth of the hole depending on the bolt diameter and that usually gives me a tiny bit of excess at the end, will save a fair bit of material and time removing excess in the long run, especially if doing lots of bolts! Great visual demonstrations
Yup that’s a good tip. Thanks for the info
If stopped watching the video, but I still hear the word "fixins'" in my head.
haha
Great video 👍
Thanks 👍
7:37 In order to use these chemical anchors, the drilling dust must not be removed. This is also stated on the exact packaging that you showed us.
Not only are the resins very strong, as you mentioned... but a good, construction-grade epoxy (for instance, Hilti's) is stronger than the concrete. I knew an engineer who would NEVER specify J-bolts because the cold working weakened the steel and it was easier and stronger to epoxy the studs in place.
Are ones like sleeve anchors good for wet environments? I went with the blue primed tapcon bolt because it seemed the most water resistant, but I dont think they grip nearly as well. I like the idea of the resin ones tho, never seen em before
Yeah the sleeve anchors should be fine.
Great video, may I kindly suggest less is more when it comes to the sound effects and whatnot? Found it a little distracting personally. It's good to see people teaching how to actually clean a hole out properly. A lot of times people think it's over the top to blow out the dust and also use a little brush, but both actually do a different and important job. We did a lot of retro fixing reinforcement bar into concrete (1m long holes vertically) and the blowout process was painful as the dust can only come upwards which isn't as easy to deal with. (a) your face tends to be near the dust blowout, and that's a LOT of dust and you need to blow hard, and (b) it tends to fall back down. In the end I developed a process of using a powerful mains handheld vacuum with a 1m length of 8mm flexible hose, with the tip cut to an angle, then using an internal pipe-cleaner style brush on the end of a long dowel, then the dust blower, then repeat a few times. About 20 mins to clean each hole! But without that cleaning it simply wouldn't have been possible to fix in properly with resin....
Yeah was not sure if the animation was taking away from the video or adding to the video.
I’ll take that feedback onboard and thanks for the tips
@@mikebolt9753 I'm no expert myself, just a punter :)
I am impressed by how well you did the job of cleaning out the holes. From your claim to be "just a punter", I assume you are an amateur, and I am disappointed that no professional tradesman would have done such a good job.
Just throw some resin in with the screw anchor and you got a really strong anchor
Used many lead machine screw anchors. The only down side is you need a setting tool but they work great on hollow cement blocks.
Yeah they are a great option.
Great
THANKS
If one overtight x-bolts etc, then the concrete cracks over time.
Thanks
how about weight? which one is the more heavy weight? suitable for hanging a punching bag in the gym (fully vertical).. something like that
I think the resin gives the strongest fixing. depends whether you want something you can remove down the line or not.
Hey what happened to the 1st video that you posted ? Good content tho
Changed a few mistakes. 95% is still the same
DON'T WIPE AWAY THE EXCESS RESIN WITH YOUR FINGER!!!
When you set a resin anchor you need to thread it into the hole (not) just push straight down.
thanks for the comment
If drilling holes in concrete was just as simple as presented here life would be a breeze.
Concrete, and bricks, etc. comes in different strength, good luck to drill a hole in hard concrete with your combi drill, it can take 10-20 minutes, in some cases you just can't do it, where the SDS may need a minute or two. There is also the fact that the combi drill does not have the punch to crunch hard concrete so it is just grinding the hole, it is wearing out the drill-bit fast, the SDS have much more punching power to crunch the concrete and the drill-bit will last much longer but not forever, even quality SDS drill-bit wear out.
Btw, after the brushing of the hole you blow it out too, just saying.
fair enough
Ive always used porcupine snot and a pocket slot.. i guess you called it chemical something or another and sleeve anchor.. boss always called it snot and slots.. is what i write on the material order sheets also.. given the sds drill they call hammer holer and bolts are called hold fasts. Now that i think about it my boss has never called me by name.. he always calls me fucker.. and i always called him old man or old fuck depending on his mood..
Hahaha interesting names lol
The problem with the chemical bolts is thy have.A Shelf life
The most useless test. The fact that you don't drill in a whole brick and have no equipment to make a pulling test but just drilling right in to the edge and securing with a slim piece of polycarb is absolutely hilarious, brick gets damaged before you manage to put an Anker in it.
Glad it gave you a good laugh 😆
Clearly You missed the point of the video. It's a visualization of different methods, not a test.
What’s an ‘Anker’….never heard of an Anker before…oh, do you mean that manufacturer of battery pack back up systems, yes I’m sure they are called Anker.
@@contessa.adella Maybe it's the part of your leg above your foot?
Fundamentally irrelevant testing of completely unrealistic conditions. You drill anything that close to an edge and it's going to crumble instantly because that's how concrete works.
Its not a test, its a visualization. So, completely irrelevant comment.
EXACTLY.
@@mikebolt9753 True, but there is things to take into consideration when drilling holes close to the edge, different anchor manufactures have different recommendations on what minimum distance you must keep to the edge, same with regards to how close you can place the holes.
@@K2teknik. he drilled it that close so we can see what's going on inside the hole. Most of us weren't born with X-Ray vision. If you need to put an anchor on the edge like this you'd better rethink what you're doing.
@@1pcfred I know, he also tells so in the video too.
I am just pointing out that there are limits to where you can place your holes, and I do it because I know that many people do not know this and may place holes to close to each other, or to the edge.
It is also worth to mention that you should really read the manufactures instructions/guidelines (concrete/drill/drill-bits-anchors), sometimes there is gold to pickup there regarding how/when to use their product and/or when not to use their product.
For a one off diy project with a few anchors it may not matte that much in time/money, but in some cases it will matter if you plan/investigate stuff beforehand, time and money spend can differ drastically depending on the strength of the concrete and the strength needed for the fastening.