Awesome video, very much appreciated. I currently have the super deluxe ultimate coil (newest one before they discontinued them). I was gonna try and upgrade it to the Vivid with the upgrade kit. Found some online for $180. How similar is the service for the newer version compared to your video? Might get some views putting one up, no one has done it yet. Thx again for posting.
Biggest difference in the service is that there is a purge port on the sealhead of the vivid, so the bleeding is a bit better. The sealhead tooling is also different. I am hoping to do a video on it over the winter.
Appreciate your videos! Don’t get the shock open on the countermeasure side. Used the original sram tool and other pliers. Long leveraged and force/impulse. Nothing moving… Tools are all broken. Any ideas?
@@benediktbrandt9171 rough. I would try heating with a tourch/heat gun. As a last resort you could clamp the sealhead in shaft clamps or straight jaws and replace the sealhead during the service. That way you can put a long wrench on the eyelet side to try loosening. The sealhead wrench tool pins can be replaced by Sram pedal pins.
My shock (Rockshox super deluxe rct) is a bit worn on the "rod", a bit silvery instead of black. It definitely needs servicing, but the question is whether a new „Suspension strut“ is also necessary and whether it is worth it. It also would need new bushings. Or should I just buy a new one for around 200-300 bucks.
If it's not leaking then chances are it won't leak after servicing, so it's fine to leave the shaft as is if you are trying to save cash. Probably the used shock for that much will also need servicing, so you don't save money on the servicing aspect.
Hi, great video! I have same rear shock and I have problem with rebound knob, it's very stiff, I can't turn it with a hand. I would like to do something with it during 200h service. Should I just loose rebound knob, lube it and it's done? Is there anything I should look after? I can't find anything about rebound (knob) service in coil shocks, nor in Rockshox manual. Thank you for any info.
No need to service the shock to fix this issue. You most likely just need to clean out the backside of the rebound adjuster/eyelet where dirt can accumulate. There are threads on the backside upon which the adjuster knob turns. I recommend spraying it out with isopropyl alcohol using a spray bottle at close range. This should free up the adjuster. Lubing the adjuster from both sides will also help.
Amazing ! I've started watching this a month ago then stopped beaucause i thought that you gonna pump up the IFP with Azote gaz but actually it does not looks like ! some shox maintenance here does it . What do you think if we pump it as normal as this ? THx great video !
I think you just need to compensate for the shaft displacement volume on the IFP. I can't think of any other reason it would cause a problem. So measure the counter measure spring travel when you compress it, then calculate the volume of shaft that corresponds to that length, then calculate the IFP displacement. It will probably be a very small amount like 1 mm IFP displacement. So, you can also just assembly it without the counter measure tool and set the IFP to 32 mm instead of 33 mm. I don't think it will screw up the assembly bleed in any way, but I haven't tried.
Any tips on working with damper fluid that has been pressurized? I bled the air out of the IFP Res and I can't depress the valve anymore. Manual says I have to send it in, but I know there has to be a safe way to bleed it out. (Think milky damper fluid on a Fox)
You can just loosen the sealhead until it starts leaking. As for the safety of this, it's as safe as you make it. It's not inherently safe, but I never had an issue doing it. Some people put a bag over the shock, so the oil spray is captured also.
Gotcha. When you say seal head, you mean the part that the tool broke on yeah? Figure I loosen that and that’s the “other side” of the damper system from the IFP, seems like the most straightforward way to bleed out the pressure. I plan to just treat it akin to opening a shaken coke bottle, just open until I get it starting to bubble out and then let it bleed.
Excelent video !!! Thanks and keep doing great content! Cheers from Chile
Awesome video, very much appreciated. I currently have the super deluxe ultimate coil (newest one before they discontinued them). I was gonna try and upgrade it to the Vivid with the upgrade kit. Found some online for $180. How similar is the service for the newer version compared to your video? Might get some views putting one up, no one has done it yet.
Thx again for posting.
Biggest difference in the service is that there is a purge port on the sealhead of the vivid, so the bleeding is a bit better. The sealhead tooling is also different. I am hoping to do a video on it over the winter.
Appreciate your videos! Don’t get the shock open on the countermeasure side. Used the original sram tool and other pliers. Long leveraged and force/impulse. Nothing moving… Tools are all broken. Any ideas?
@@benediktbrandt9171 rough. I would try heating with a tourch/heat gun. As a last resort you could clamp the sealhead in shaft clamps or straight jaws and replace the sealhead during the service. That way you can put a long wrench on the eyelet side to try loosening. The sealhead wrench tool pins can be replaced by Sram pedal pins.
Tried it a second time with torch and new set of pins. It worked! Thank you so much, Simon! You saved my shock!
Does it make any difference using the maxima light oil
Yes, completely different viscosity.
My shock (Rockshox super deluxe rct) is a bit worn on the "rod", a bit silvery instead of black. It definitely needs servicing, but the question is whether a new „Suspension strut“ is also necessary and whether it is worth it. It also would need new bushings. Or should I just buy a new one for around 200-300 bucks.
If it's not leaking then chances are it won't leak after servicing, so it's fine to leave the shaft as is if you are trying to save cash. Probably the used shock for that much will also need servicing, so you don't save money on the servicing aspect.
Hi, great video! I have same rear shock and I have problem with rebound knob, it's very stiff, I can't turn it with a hand. I would like to do something with it during 200h service. Should I just loose rebound knob, lube it and it's done? Is there anything I should look after? I can't find anything about rebound (knob) service in coil shocks, nor in Rockshox manual. Thank you for any info.
No need to service the shock to fix this issue. You most likely just need to clean out the backside of the rebound adjuster/eyelet where dirt can accumulate. There are threads on the backside upon which the adjuster knob turns. I recommend spraying it out with isopropyl alcohol using a spray bottle at close range. This should free up the adjuster. Lubing the adjuster from both sides will also help.
Amazing ! I've started watching this a month ago then stopped beaucause i thought that you gonna pump up the IFP with Azote gaz but actually it does not looks like !
some shox maintenance here does it . What do you think if we pump it as normal as this ? THx great video !
The official service manual pumps up the IFP with the same shock pump.
Is there a way to do the service without the rockshox counter measure tool?
I think you just need to compensate for the shaft displacement volume on the IFP. I can't think of any other reason it would cause a problem. So measure the counter measure spring travel when you compress it, then calculate the volume of shaft that corresponds to that length, then calculate the IFP displacement. It will probably be a very small amount like 1 mm IFP displacement. So, you can also just assembly it without the counter measure tool and set the IFP to 32 mm instead of 33 mm. I don't think it will screw up the assembly bleed in any way, but I haven't tried.
Any tips on working with damper fluid that has been pressurized? I bled the air out of the IFP Res and I can't depress the valve anymore. Manual says I have to send it in, but I know there has to be a safe way to bleed it out. (Think milky damper fluid on a Fox)
You can just loosen the sealhead until it starts leaking. As for the safety of this, it's as safe as you make it. It's not inherently safe, but I never had an issue doing it. Some people put a bag over the shock, so the oil spray is captured also.
Gotcha. When you say seal head, you mean the part that the tool broke on yeah? Figure I loosen that and that’s the “other side” of the damper system from the IFP, seems like the most straightforward way to bleed out the pressure. I plan to just treat it akin to opening a shaken coke bottle, just open until I get it starting to bubble out and then let it bleed.
@@wydra9-1 you got it
@@simonszoke1479 Thanks for the help! Really appreciate it.