Thanks for posting this video! It will help when I get to doing some maintenance and tune up work on my 1988 Evinrude 200hp XP model. Keep them coming please! 😂
Thanks for sharing this the manuals are pretty much useless on these later looper models On step 5 is a test wheel necessary if you have the boat in water? I know it says you need one on here but I've seen a lot of other videos where it's done in the water with a regular prop.thanks for any info and again thanks for the video it's really helpful
Brandon, I have snapped my 432095 OMC Spark Advance Link Assembly while during a rebuild of the top end and disassembly. I came to find out that this part is extremely difficult to find and still have yet to find it. Was wondering if you had any feedback or any alternative as to resolving this problem? Any insight would be appreciated, thank you.
You don’t know how many times “my buddy, who’s a mechanic” serviced outboards that’s have come into my shop. You also don’t know how many times these same outboards synchronization is out of whack due to the aforementioned “buddies, who are mechanics.”
Thanks for the video that was GREAT. Since you have this old stuff, I was wondering if you had a factory service manual for a Johnson 1989 200 GT I have download some but they are for many years and different models and are not very specific. Enjoy your vids
i've heard that, too but in practice i could never figure out why people say that... makes zero sense! might be just because you are LIGHTLY going counterclockwise to feel the stop... but not more than a few mm.
Its because he goes past tdc when he brings the piston stop against the piston, further turning clockwise is bringing the piston down, then back up again until it contacts the stop tool. Hope that makes sense.
question brandon?? I have a 1989 E100stlcem evidrude v4. #1 cylinder broke a ring & beat up the head a little & scratched cylinder wall. being a retired 35+ diesel mechanic I pulled heads I honed the cylinder scratch a little & smoothed out dings in head with jb weld. I know sounds crazy but it still has 90psi on that cylinder and other than not starting at the first turn of key it runs good. idles good after warming up have to push primer key sometimes to keep idling. can you tell me if there is a reman powerhead out there for my application or will I have to rebuild myself after bore job? thanks
get all cylinders bored by an outboard shop. ship the block out if you have to but no automotive machine shop stuff. i use jays block shop in sparta, TN an im in RI. you do not want to just hone a crossflow motor as they absorb a lot of heat with those thick piston crowns. and dont run it anymore! you need to keep priming it because the rings are shot. cant push enough fuel/air into the cylinder BEHIND the rings when the piston goes down.
no not remotely. those motors are actually easier to do , but you need the $90 timing tool. on ebay. and of course a used factory service manual on ebay. any 1995-2004 v4/v6 60 degree one will be fine. the later BRP ones are very simple, but i like the older OMC ones for more detail.
What's the point of moving the shifter half way? Reason I'm asking is because my boat as a gas pedal will this affect this step? If so what should I do?
no a pedal wont effect it. simply shift into forward, and lightly touch the pedal. arm should still be against the block. if not, and it runs fine, leave it alone. most are worn by now, and will lift off the block slightly. biggest thing to do is install the cables correctly, making sure there is no slack in forward to neutral detent.
Thank you for sharing! How do you get 5000 rpm on neutral? I have 1989 OMC single lever remote control, can't find how to disengage lever from shift :(
Get it figured out yet? If not, on a single lever there should be a red or black pull button under under the handle. This is the Neutral shift lock AND throttle control. By holding it up and pushing forward or back, it should raise the engine rpm's. On other styles, there is a push/pull button release in the center of the shifter where it pivots. This locks/unlocks the shifter from the shift cable. On the older style Power Pilot, there is a lever behind the shifter pivot point. Last but not least, there is another type that DOES have a second lever just above the key switch. Lift this to increase engine speed. It is not unusual for these secondary levers or push/pull buttons to be missing on older controls.
Pull the shifter out while in neutral. Might have to wiggle it out.grab the handle at the base then pull it out ..maybe 3/4" then u will be able to move the throttle with shifting in gear
I can't thank you enough for showing this.
Thanks for sharing these old videos. Stuff like this is really hard to find online.
Thanks for posting this video! It will help when I get to doing some maintenance and tune up work on my 1988 Evinrude 200hp XP model. Keep them coming please! 😂
Have you been able to find carburetors?
Watching these old OMC service training videos always makes me want to have highly buttered popcorn at hand.
😂
Thanks for showing that . Man id like to get my hands on that manual
Thank you, helped me making my 140hp running awesome
Thank you for the video adjustment on the throttle cable can be a nightmare great info 👍
these are all great omc vids. where did you get them all from ?
Thanks for sharing this video
I was so happy to see this that I actually watched the ads, even the two minute one about poop. 11:52 - Busted knuckle!
Well thanks!
Skippable ads usually pay better anyway, so just skip your way through.
Process work for 130 v4 looper?
THANK YOU!!
Keep up the great work really appreciated
Perfect!
Best video on how do this I've seen, great job
Well, I do what I can.
Wow thanks for the video awesome information :)
Awesome|! Where do you get that tape? Got others?
Thanks for sharing this the manuals are pretty much useless on these later looper models On step 5 is a test wheel necessary if you have the boat in water? I know it says you need one on here but I've seen a lot of other videos where it's done in the water with a regular prop.thanks for any info and again thanks for the video it's really helpful
Brandon, I have snapped my 432095 OMC Spark Advance Link Assembly while during a rebuild of the top end and disassembly. I came to find out that this part is extremely difficult to find and still have yet to find it. Was wondering if you had any feedback or any alternative as to resolving this problem? Any insight would be appreciated, thank you.
For the V4 flavors, what should the temp gauge reading be at around operating temp.?
125-152.5 degrees f at the top of the heads at 900 rpm. no more, no less.
Hey, thanks for this! I would love to find some vids like this for my 1992 Mercury Black Max 135.
You don’t know how many times “my buddy, who’s a mechanic” serviced outboards that’s have come into my shop. You also don’t know how many times these same outboards synchronization is out of whack due to the aforementioned “buddies, who are mechanics.”
Got anything OMC with tiller handles?
You have done a public service sir
Thanks for the video that was GREAT. Since you have this old stuff, I was wondering if you had a factory service manual for a Johnson 1989 200 GT I have download some but they are for many years and different models and are not very specific. Enjoy your vids
There are a few on ebay right now, cheapest one 25 bucks. :-)
I thought the first mark on the flywheel is clockwise and the second mark on the flywheel is counterclockwise?
i've heard that, too but in practice i could never figure out why people say that... makes zero sense! might be just because you are LIGHTLY going counterclockwise to feel the stop... but not more than a few mm.
Its because he goes past tdc when he brings the piston stop against the piston, further turning clockwise is bringing the piston down, then back up again until it contacts the stop tool. Hope that makes sense.
question brandon??
I have a 1989 E100stlcem evidrude v4.
#1 cylinder broke a ring & beat up the head a little & scratched cylinder wall. being a retired 35+ diesel mechanic I pulled heads I honed the cylinder scratch a little & smoothed out dings in head with jb weld. I know sounds crazy but it still has 90psi on that cylinder and other than not starting at the first turn of key it runs good. idles good after warming up have to push primer key sometimes to keep idling. can you tell me if there is a reman powerhead out there for my application or will I have to rebuild myself after bore job?
thanks
get all cylinders bored by an outboard shop. ship the block out if you have to but no automotive machine shop stuff. i use jays block shop in sparta, TN an im in RI. you do not want to just hone a crossflow motor as they absorb a lot of heat with those thick piston crowns. and dont run it anymore! you need to keep priming it because the rings are shot. cant push enough fuel/air into the cylinder BEHIND the rings when the piston goes down.
I remember those videos from boat mech school. They are coveted now. Don't ever sell it.....or your vhs player either.
Brandon is there anyway you can add a transcription to the end of this video so we can follow along a little closely
i have a 1993 200xp its on firing on 1 cylinder looking at back of motor top left..any ideas what it might be
Do you have the video that covers an 86 225 Evinrude?
Is this manual the same for Johnson/Evinrude Oceanrunner/PRO 90hp, v4 60 degres as well? If not, do you have service manual for them?
no not remotely. those motors are actually easier to do , but you need the $90 timing tool. on ebay. and of course a used factory service manual on ebay. any 1995-2004 v4/v6 60 degree one will be fine. the later BRP ones are very simple, but i like the older OMC ones for more detail.
Following
What's the point of moving the shifter half way? Reason I'm asking is because my boat as a gas pedal will this affect this step? If so what should I do?
no a pedal wont effect it. simply shift into forward, and lightly touch the pedal. arm should still be against the block. if not, and it runs fine, leave it alone. most are worn by now, and will lift off the block slightly. biggest thing to do is install the cables correctly, making sure there is no slack in forward to neutral detent.
Thank you for sharing! How do you get 5000 rpm on neutral? I have 1989 OMC single lever remote control, can't find how to disengage lever from shift :(
Get it figured out yet? If not, on a single lever there should be a red or black pull button under under the handle. This is the Neutral shift lock AND throttle control. By holding it up and pushing forward or back, it should raise the engine rpm's. On other styles, there is a push/pull button release in the center of the shifter where it pivots. This locks/unlocks the shifter from the shift cable. On the older style Power Pilot, there is a lever behind the shifter pivot point. Last but not least, there is another type that DOES have a second lever just above the key switch. Lift this to increase engine speed. It is not unusual for these secondary levers or push/pull buttons to be missing on older controls.
Pull the shifter out while in neutral. Might have to wiggle it out.grab the handle at the base then pull it out ..maybe 3/4" then u will be able to move the throttle with shifting in gear
Do Not! Run to 5000 rpm in neutral! Full advance timing is in gear w/test wheel. Or checked with a helper driving on the water.
@@richardluce775 jesus seriously! are people this dumb or am I imagining things? it clearly states TEST WHEEL or on the boat at speed.
Do you have one for 1996 mercury 50, 55 and 60hp?
25 -35 please