Hey Yall! Tools & parts in the description. Check out the previous video: Evinrude Outboard Timer Base Replacement: ua-cam.com/video/cH7iE25YJAY/v-deo.html Timestamps 0:00 Intro 0:55 Checklist 1:16 Sync Carbs 3:07 Timing Settings 4:30 Set Timing Pointer 7:24 Set Pickup Timing 8:24 Set Idle Speed 9:40 Set WOT Timing 13:11 Test Run On Water 13:28 Outro ***Disclaimer: Matt's Shop assumes no responsibility and is not liable for any damages that may occur from attempting to duplicate any repair procedures performed in this video. This is for entertainment purposes only.***
Aloha Matt, Mahalo nui (thank you so much) for your help in showing me how to change many parts on my 1984 Evinrude 115 hp! I got ripped off by two boat mechanics, and maybe it’s because I’m a woman. I watched your videos, bought the manual for my boat and got my engine up and running! Mahalo your a lifesaver! 🤙🏽
I've got a 50hp evinrude on my 13ft whaler that only goes 23mph, maxes at about 3000rpm, and it has issues planing with more than one person in the boat. I weighed the boat and motor thinking it was water logged, but total only weighs 650lbs. I'll be doing this tomorrow. Thanks for the awesome video.
what year is it? are the throttle plates exactly horixontal at WOT? just get a toothpick and stick it in the roll pin on stbd side of #1 carb, no need to remove air silencer to check.
Incredible thank you been waiting for amazing material that is so in depth thank you so much for going over this especially on a old Evinrude. There is no in depth ones like this thank you thank you thank you your amazing.
You're welcome! I know, no one has done an in-depth video like this one. I would still buy a service manual online and if if gets confusing, watch this! The settings will be slightly different for different models.
Merry Christmas! We all know why im here! You are very knowledgeable on this subject! You know your shit in other words! Thank you for this video. I hope everyone has a blessed holiday!
Good informative video. Just a little more information that is considerably safer, set the timing with the cables disconnected , cranking the engine. You can set all timing events while cranking the engine. That’s how I’ve always done them. The only thing I adjust on the water is the idle rpm.
Very good and straight forward information one of the best I’ve seen wish you were here need your help keep making the videos someone’s going to see you your going to be big if your not already.
I call a outboard shop yesterday morning about a link and sync on a 140 Evinrude. They had to put someone else on the phone, and even that person didn’t know what I was talking about. I got off of work, and finally got the outboard idling right. Now I just got to open it up on the water, and finish dialing the timing in. As of right now it’s idling at 4 degrees.
It sounds like it's starving for fuel at WOT. Look for leaking fuel hoses leaking air/fuel. Sucking air is just as bad as leaking fuel on a 2 stroke. Or have someone look at the timing. The throttle plates might not be completely flat at WOT.
great video thaks a lot!..........can I ask you something...........I have a Johnson 100 hp 1985 (J100WMPLP) and have also the service manual, where it says there´s a decal on the motor with the timing specs....well, I don´t see any decal anywhere and because of that don´d know the max spark advance timing........what should I do?........thanks in advance
Hi Matt, great video. I have a 1989 175 XP. only firing on three cylinders. I've changed primary wires to coils, from coils that work and all coils seem to be good. Is it the power pack? Stator? Or maybe both? Hope yo
If it was mine I would swap the power packs with each other. If the problem follows it's the power-pack. If the problem stays it's the stator/timerbase. It's a free test.
Thanks for the knowledge... I'm having fits trying troubleshoot my 200hp johnson. Someone has put a bunch of new Ignition parts stater flywheel and I don't know if they knew what they were doing I don't know if they're using oEM parts I don't know a lot about it but they have replaced everything electrical on the motor and it has not ran since. You give a great tutorial but all that stuff's kind of intimidating I am mechanically inclined but that's working on motors and motorcycles and stuff this outboard motor business is completely different but I really want my bike running so I guess I'm gonna dive into it do it so you're probably gonna get like 200 more views just from me alone
Don't be intimidated. It gets easier the longer you look at it. Make sure you get an OEM service manual and talk to a professional if you are that concerned.
Impeller pitch and diameter is based on sea level operation. At higher elevation, you will lose RPM and may have to drop down one impeller size. Long use in corrosive conditions may create pin holes in the exhaust tube which builds up back pressure and reduces RPM. Excessive RPM is usually caused by air entering the pump. It can be caused also, during start up, if the leading edges of the blades are blunted from gravel. A rough boat bottom, keels or damage ahead of the intake can introduce air, as well as setting the motor too high.
After the butterfly’s snap shut and you tighten the screws what do you align the little roller wheel back to to the scribe line? Do you just move it there?
Just started 1982 70 Evinrude. Super high revving in neutral. Think I had been playing with the throttle cables when I was painting the body. What should I look at first?
I have a 1972 evinrude 135 it sounds like its in gear when i start the motor also sounds like its full throttle alao the prop spins while in neutral i have it on a motor mount off my boat but im going to need some help getting it running right i was wondering if you could shed any light on it as right now its pretty scary to start the motor and it sounds like it is running full out in neutral and insight would help
hay man I am not putting you down but in this video when you pointed out number 1 and 2 where I was looking from video did you have them turn around iam not trying to be smart about that going back and watching it again
Hi ive noticed your primer switch is not in the run position is there a reason why i the same motor but a johnson gt175 my primer valve points to the bottom of the electic unit, its right up cold or warm but bogs down when u add throttle to it.
Hi Matt ive got a 1986 evinrude and we cant get the new CDI pack to work , do you have a video that i can learn from for the CDI Pack please , BTW love your videos.
I have a 1997 evinrude 115 hp ficht engine, I understand that the spark plugs need to be indexed but the manual doesn't quite illustrate it very well as to where the air fuel spray is located to line up the electrodes correctly. Can you help me with this?
Hey, I am not that familiar with the FICHT Ram Evinrudes. I mainly work on the 1979-1994ish crossflow/looper outboards. Is indexing the sparkplugs necessary on the FICHT outboards?
Hello Matt! I really appreciate your video on this subject. It’s very well done and gave me a lot of good info since I just got a 1989 Johnson get 150. I have one problem with the carb butter fly valves. They will not reach full open horizontal position. No matter what I try. Am I missing something? Thanks
Would it be possible to have a word with you on this since I'm doing the same thing except on a 79 Evinrude 115hp. ??? example question why when I put the timing light on cylinder one plug the timing marks on the flywheel don't show at the timing pointer? Oddly it shows when I put it on Cylinder 4. Among other questions. What would be an easier way to have a conversation with you rather than typing here and waiting for a reply. We are not in the 80's anymore ya know. Much appreciated.
Awesome. I have a problem with my 04 rude 225 that stall when I accelerate. Only does it sometimes. The diagnostic show CPS out of sync. Replace it still same issue. Any idea that will help? Thanks
Hey Matt I've got an old Johnson 150 v6 and when I've got it out of the water it runs good will go full throttle and then in water full throttle it acts like im giving it 30% throttle. Its not bogging or anything just won't give 100% throttle. My hub on prop is good throttle box will give me 100% throttle out of water i watch the butterflys open to make sure . Getting puzzled here
I had the exact same issue. Check the timer base plastic ring it can well and need grease. Make sure the timer base rotates freely. ua-cam.com/video/cH7iE25YJAY/v-deo.html Skip to 14:37
just FYI for everyone : its MUCH simpler than he shows, but complicates things with the pickup timing. all that really matters is you adjust idle RPM in forward gear to 600-700rpm, THEN you set your cam roller/throttle cam relationship with the hashmark. if you do it the other way around, you will now be out of synch. the actual timing degrees dont matter as it will be perfect after setting idle speed as mentioned on a healthy motor. WOT timing is a set and forget thing from the factory, and nearly all have been adjusted to 28 degrees or else they would be basket cases. static timing for that is much easier.
I have same motor and and at full throttle I get a loud metal on metal chirp stops when I back off then if I go back to full throttle it chirps like two pieces of metal rubbing anyideas
There are little metal clips under the flywheel that can rub. If it has the original timer base it's probably aluminum that can be off center if the plastic ring below it wears out. Hard to say.
I went through and set everything carbs are open about 1/8 idol neutral is the common when I took her out she acted like is was in safe mode have good spark all six timing is good I noticed that I had swapped starboard and port heat sensors around while rebuild heads one has oil line (unplugged) I use mixed gas would that have anything to do with it being in safe mode and is 1/8 open on the butterfly’s normal thanks your time bud you’ve helped me a lot btw I have the same motor just a year newer 1990 evinrude 150 xp
1985 evinrude 150 vro xp question in your video at 3:10/7:08/12:07 the blue thing under the fly wheel that piece of metal that goes in it what would cause that to pop out every time that you put it in full throttle? I can get it to click in, but it still pops back out when i put it in full throttle mines like one little black boot. Thanks your video is great!! If i had an email or something to send you the video i’d show you exactly what i mean but its the same spot as your blue on except mines metal and it has one single black boot that it slides into.
This one is plastic. It's called a ball and socket. They get worn out and the ball part just pops out of the timer base or the timing lever. You have to buy new parts. 2 ball ends and 2 sockets on this model. Make sure the timer base rotates freely.
@@MattsShop yeah it rotates freely i really wasn’t expecting such a quick reply I appreciate it. Is that an easy fix or should I probably take it somewhere I don’t wanna mess anything up. I’ve googled how to change ball and socket in a few different wordings I know the ball pulls out easily, but can’t figure out how to get the socket part out or get it back in when i get it out. Also is it normal for a boat remote to not go in forward when it’s not started, but as soon as its started it’ll go into forward. Sorry for 1000 questions. I appreciate your help idk I just bought the boat used 4 days ago, so i’m just figuring out stuff as I go.
Hey Matt, why do you have the 4* mark painted if the book shows 7 +\- 1*? You pointed out the 8 and 28 but I didn’t hear anything about the 3rd 4 degree mark reasoning. Please help. Trying to tune my 86 70hp VRO Evinrude and I’m wondering did you set base idle timing at the 4 degrees or is that just for tolerances from manual? Is base idle timing supposed to be directly on TDC typically?
no. FORGET PICKUP TIMING for now! Loosen cam roller and let it flop around. remove throttle cable . using only the idle stop screw, adjust it so its 800rpm EXACTLY in forward gear in water not tied to a dock. shut motor off. now take cam roller and adjust throttle cam so they just barely touch at scribe line. now tighten cam roller screw, and back off idle stop screw exactly 1/2 turn. now idle should be 750rpm. re-install throttle cable and done. do not worry about the pickup "idle" timing number! its rpm that matters as timing will be perfect.
You mentioned the fuel today as opposed to the fuel in the past. I am going to assume that you mean regular unleaded fuel. It is obvious that high octane fuel will affect your timing as well. Will you shed some "timing" light on this please? No pun intended... Lol. Thanks Matt. Subbed and following with bell on. Much appreciated. Blessings from Ontario Canada! EDIT: I have a 1977 35hp Johnson. Want to tweak it a bit. Thanks!
I just run the cheapest gas possible. Like 87 Octane. The grade of the fuel does effect the timing. I would run whatever you run and set the timing to the manufacturer's specs. Get a timing light with a built in tachometer! It's the best for outboards.
I see you deal with alot of boats. I have a Johnson 110 v4 vro. Starts right up and runs good at high idle. But normal idle it shuts off. New plugs. He said carbs was cleaned. Just bought it yesterday. Any ideas
Is the fuel pump diaphragm in good shape or are there any hidden fuel filters at the gas tank? The pickup timing might be off. Is the little plastic roller cam on the timing tree in good shape?
I have a 1996 112 HP Evenrude, and I been having a hard time getting the motor to start, sometimes I spend about 15 to 20 minutes trying to get it to start and stay running. Do you have any suggestions on what could be the problem? Thank you!
I have a 1984 Evanrude Super40. I believe it is identical to the 84 Norsemen. Sold to another part of the world and name something different. Is it possible to take a electric start system from a 84 Evan rude and adapted over to the 84 super40. My problem is that you damn near have to be the Incredible Hulk to pull start this motor and if you're not paying attention it will pull you right back into it. So I'm hope is that I can take the electric start setup off of the 84 Evinrude 40 and it will fit onto the 1984 Evan rude super 40. Thankyou. 🙏🙏
Yes, I have. I have tried it twice on two separate engines. Could never get the timing to advance right. It would always end up being set WAYYY too far advanced when running.
Hey man im not sure where your located but in georgia i got a johnson gt 150 vro so my shift cable broke i replaced it ran great for id say 29 hours i was at mid speed and my boat started acting like it was out of gas long story short i got it runnig better once i pulled the boat out of the water and messed with the control cables on the hose but now when i put my boat in the water once i hit plane my alarm start going off and acts like its outta gas any idea what could be causing this?
The carb butterfly throttle plates have to be completely flat at Wide Open Throttle position. When you change those cables out it messes with the timing some too. It can be a pain to adjust the cable back to where it was. Where in Georgia are u?
@@MattsShop i hear you man yeah im for sure stumped on this rate now im a jet ski technician but outboards are completely diffrent and i live in acworth about 10 mins from lake allatoona
@@matthewrobert2888 If it was mine I would adjust the throttle cable at the outboard with the little black wheel until the timing tree is completely straight up and down and check to make sure the throttle butterflies are completely flat at Wide Open Throttle (throttle pushed all the way down). I'd check everything WITHOUT the engine running. I wouldn't touch any of the timing adjustments. Just like at 1:26
@@MattsShop right on yeah imma try what your saying and unfortunately i messed with the silver arm linkage and the idler adjuster but i didnt mess with the very top one by the flywheel i left that alone do you think if adjust everything the way u explain and stop up to the timing light part id be go to go because it ran fine till the cable broke and i started messing with those settings
If you adjust the little silver wheel, it adjusts the idle "pickup" timing. It's hard to say. I always check the WOT timing because I don't want to damage the engine. Anytime you mess with the timing tree you are supposed to do a full "link and sync".
Hey Matt I have a 1986 110 evinrude and it was working great then one day I seen some smoke as water pickup got clogged with weeds. I stop engine and stuff but would never run right. I put 4 new coils on, plugs wires and rebuild carbs and fuel pump now in messing with link n sync. I got it on plane the other day and runs and sounds awesome but now I can’t get it on plane and it keeps dying when I give it gas. My cam follower pickup has so much play in it!!!? I’m confused if I upload a video of it could you help me out thanks brother!!! Cheer 🍻🍻
I have a question my boat doesn’t idle well at times and sometimes you can start it no problem but as soon as I put it in gear it dies it has a hot foot so I try to give a little gas and then put it in gear but it just dies do you think this adjustment will fix my problem?
Hi Matt, I have a 1978 140 that I got running, but the timer advance/plate doesn't return all the way to the stop. It idles fast, so I think this might be the cause. It seems to be the wiring harness restricting it. Have you ever seen this? Does it even matter?
follow the procedure in the manual. you do have a service manual right? it clearly says to make sure you shift to FORWARD detent, then half way back to neutral and pull the slack out them fit cable in trunnion. adjust thumbwheel as needed. key here is idle stop screw is resting firmly on the block. if its off of it, you did something wrong. very easy to set these up properly.
@ct1762 Thanks, I'm trying to find a manual. I adjusted the idle stop up against the block yesterday, and got the throttle cam follower aligned. Made my TDC mark on the flywheel. For some reason the cast timing marks on the flywheel are waaay off. Like 3" away from my new marks. Today I plan to remove the flywheel and see if the key is sheared off. Cheers
@@wayne3340 no problem. If the TDC marks are that far off good thinking about the key, but it wouldn't even start if it was that far off. when the flywheel slips, it usually throws the timing out so much it just pops and never starts, let alone idle. definitely worth checking, and the magnet for the timer (inside ring magnet). if that slips time for a fresh flywheel. are you sure you are using the #1 timing grid and have the exact midpoint calculated properly with the piston stop? no need to index the flywheel as he shows... either its working or it isnt. a much quicker way to index is simply stick a pencil in each cylinder and find rough TDC and make your mark. if the number flickers or you see another cylinders #, its misfiring. but no need to know exact timing of the other cylinders.
@ct1762 Thanks for your reply. It fires up real nice, and "idles" at about 2200 until warm, then drops down to about 1800 rpm. It revs up from the carb, but under load it hesitates. It will plane out if I'm very careful with the throttle, but only the odd time it will catch, and pull hard and smooth for a second. I have new plugs and wires on order. I bought a timing light and I'll go out and check timing this evening. I built a little test tank out of a 35 gallon storage bin, and I cut out around the lid to keep the water in. I can actually run it in gear like that so I'll try that again too. Thx
@ct1762 I didn't really answer your questions. I am sure my TDC mark is accurate. Standing behind the boat, facing the heads, the top right head is number 1 correct? It's the highest, then top left, bottom right and bottom left, at least that's what I've been told. As far as #1 timing grid, good question. It only has one timing grid, and it starts with TDC, then has marks for retarding the timing. I don't understand why they did that, but when I search images of a 1978 140 flywheel, it looks correct.
@@MattsShop thanks for getting back with me. I am in Florida right now and I am moving from Virginia. I’m making trips back and forth every weekend to get my stuff to Florida, Daytona area and office in the Gainesville area
Thanks for this video. I have a new to me 90's evinrude 90 like this one that starts easy, and runs smooth, but only gets to 4000 rpm, and seems low on power. I'm going to start with the stuff in this video, thanks!
Did you ever figure out the issue? I am currently dealing with the same thing. Had to get some fix on spark to a cylinder, but its still hitting only 4000. Rebuilt carbs, replaced fuel pump and all fuel line/filters so im hoping that will do the trick. I'd love to hear back from you thanks!
@@chupe7561 Nope. I replaced a coil pack that I thought was the issue but that wasn't it. I don't have a lot of money in the boat, it isn't my forever boat, it runs well enough, so I decided to just run it like it is. I get about 26mph with just me on it. Not blisteringly fast, but it gets there. I took it down to fort de Soto a couple of months ago and had a blast! Sorry I can't be of any help. If you figure yours out please let me know.
@@RunninOnCoal understood im in the same place. Currently replaced plugs, power pack, fuel filters, fuel line, fuel pump, removed VRO, tested all coils and spark, new timing base. Basically at the point where the stator is the last of the worries there if the new fuel items doesnt fix it. I'll report back if I get a better run next time its out. I'm also going to remove the prop its currently a 13x14 right now which is definitely not helping with the rpm.
@@MattsShop thank you. I do believe iv been running way to advanced on my wide open throttle timming. Now for the fun part of flying at 5000 rpm up the river while adjusting it.😬
Everything was good, until you said you can use a elec tach that hooks to the plug wire. They are total junk, to prove it I hooked up 2 of them, they were off by 600rpm from each other at wide open throttle.
I'm not buying you last video that said the pickup coil was bad 🤔 they almost Never go bad it's always the cdi controller and I see you have a new cdi controller on the motor now coincidence? Not sure why you would do that but whatever 😉 the controllers go bad all the time even new ones go bad the puck up coils NEVER just saying
Nice! I have a Xp model as well a 1987 200 XP with only 350 something hours on it. It's been sitting abandoned for years but I'm going to try and get her running again. Fog the cylinders and let her soak and try to rotate the flywheel first. Also have a new water pump to put in I'm not sure she'll need it but I guess it's better to be safe right. Nothing like a good old 2 stroke OMC outboard!!
@@MattsShop I actually bought this boat and motor from my dad years ago. We got the motor brand new in 1988 as a left over I believe. We have had a few minor issues with it like the powerpack and a thermostat but she was running pretty good the last time we had it out. I just hope the VRO system is still working maybe I'll run a separate gas tank with fresh gas and a pre-mix of 50:1 first and make sure the oil level in the vro tank is dropping. I think there's a video on how to check vro on here somewhere.
Worst part about outboards is bad gas causing rubber fuel component death. You must replace all old rubber fuel lines, ALL OF THEM, use stihl brand hoses and submersible rated gas fuel line specifically. AND then you must check for air leaks, because clamps will not all clamp and there are other dodgy parts like plastic fuel line manifold splitters that crack and leak. ALL rubber lines, even the scavenging lines, choke lines, and vacuum lines. ALL OF THEM. Yes diaphragm too should be replaced. Your main thing is air leaks and fuel leaks, tiny leaks will wreck the normal smooth operating of all these cursed shottilly engineered outboards. REPLACE ANY HARD GASKET, check with fingernail, if you cant smush it, replace it so it can seal. Hard on hard surfaces DONT SEAL, so you have to check this with carb bowl seals and fuel pump seals. Your timing, and linkages and carbs are probably all right. the jets get clogged on carbs, dont replace them, clean them, then REPLACE ALL RUBBER FUEL LINES AND RUBBER FUEL PARTS THEN check for air leaks with a simple vaccuum gauge which those are cheap and you can rent them. When floats are up when gas is full in carburetor, you should be able to pressurize the system to 5 psi. Pressurize after bulb where line goes into tank, just where you put pressure in to check leaks. You can use stainless steel aircraft lock wire, to twist and seal very tight all of the connections. On my boat this is nessesary, the tank pickup barb is not standard, it doesnt clamp tight or evenly enough with stainless hose clamps, or zip ties, or plastic tooth clamps. You have to really cinch it tight with the stainless steel wire, twist it up tight. GO around hose twice then twist tight while pulling. This way is better than any type of clamp as far as sealing goes. Also, use a dab of silicone grease around the quick disconnect, those ALWAYS have the potential to leak. They want you to buy a brand new one every season and then, they have such bad quality parts, they leak and leave you stranded or pissed off that day as it wasted time and rescources getting out on the water. This is actually best advice, follow all of it, and you will have a good running motor. Replace all rubber fuel parts and or gaskets. Check air leaks, check hose clamps. Buy brand new proper size hose clamps, not ones that have been bent up. Not oversized ones either. Or use stainless lock wire, and get good at that. Its just about that simple.
You need the manual! Got mine on eBay. It depends on the model number. This motor was 28 degrees BTDC at Wide open throttle over at least 5000 RPM. It's dangerous to set the WOT timing I don't reccomend it unless you know exactly what you're doing (no offense).
Hey Yall! Tools & parts in the description. Check out the previous video: Evinrude Outboard Timer Base Replacement: ua-cam.com/video/cH7iE25YJAY/v-deo.html
Timestamps
0:00 Intro
0:55 Checklist
1:16 Sync Carbs
3:07 Timing Settings
4:30 Set Timing Pointer
7:24 Set Pickup Timing
8:24 Set Idle Speed
9:40 Set WOT Timing
13:11 Test Run On Water
13:28 Outro
***Disclaimer: Matt's Shop assumes no responsibility and is not liable for any damages that may occur from attempting to duplicate any repair procedures performed in this video. This is for entertainment purposes only.***
Do you have a tutorial on harnesses and starter hook up
Aloha Matt, Mahalo nui (thank you so much) for your help in showing me how to change many parts on my 1984 Evinrude 115 hp! I got ripped off by two boat mechanics, and maybe it’s because I’m a woman. I watched your videos, bought the manual for my boat and got my engine up and running! Mahalo your a lifesaver! 🤙🏽
That's awesome. Glad I could help!
I've got a 50hp evinrude on my 13ft whaler that only goes 23mph, maxes at about 3000rpm, and it has issues planing with more than one person in the boat. I weighed the boat and motor thinking it was water logged, but total only weighs 650lbs. I'll be doing this tomorrow. Thanks for the awesome video.
How'd it work out
Make shure your power pack leads are correct
what year is it? are the throttle plates exactly horixontal at WOT? just get a toothpick and stick it in the roll pin on stbd side of #1 carb, no need to remove air silencer to check.
Incredible thank you been waiting for amazing material that is so in depth thank you so much for going over this especially on a old Evinrude. There is no in depth ones like this thank you thank you thank you your amazing.
You're welcome! I know, no one has done an in-depth video like this one. I would still buy a service manual online and if if gets confusing, watch this! The settings will be slightly different for different models.
@@MattsShop I have an original service manual I sent you an email through your marketing email.
ua-cam.com/video/uJTx-ygU23U/v-deo.html
here is another great video Shaquille. Matt you did awesome too!
❤!😊😢😢😢😢😢😢e 1:06 😢😢6😅a@😅○😮3😢$
Merry Christmas! We all know why im here! You are very knowledgeable on this subject! You know your shit in other words! Thank you for this video. I hope everyone has a blessed holiday!
Merry Christmas. Thanks, man I really appreciate it!
Good informative video. Just a little more information that is considerably safer, set the timing with the cables disconnected , cranking the engine. You can set all timing events while cranking the engine. That’s how I’ve always done them. The only thing I adjust on the water is the idle rpm.
Liked and subscribed. Terrific series on outboards. Lots of help with my 1978 Evinrude 140.
Very good and straight forward information one of the best I’ve seen wish you were here need your help keep making the videos someone’s going to see you your going to be big if your not already.
Thanks, I really appreciate it. I'm working on growing my channel. I do my best to try to help.
I call a outboard shop yesterday morning about a link and sync on a 140 Evinrude. They had to put someone else on the phone, and even that person didn’t know what I was talking about. I got off of work, and finally got the outboard idling right. Now I just got to open it up on the water, and finish dialing the timing in. As of right now it’s idling at 4 degrees.
Subscribed thanks for sharing your knowledge it will certainly help a DIY guy like me.
You're welcome. Thx for the sub!
Better video than the factory. Thanks!
You're welcome!
i have a evinrude 110 and it boggs out at full throttle any suggestions it runs really good I just need to know how to fix that problem
It sounds like it's starving for fuel at WOT. Look for leaking fuel hoses leaking air/fuel. Sucking air is just as bad as leaking fuel on a 2 stroke. Or have someone look at the timing. The throttle plates might not be completely flat at WOT.
Thank you. Great video and very helpful
You're welcome!
Thank you for the video it helped me a lot 👍
You're welcome!
great video thaks a lot!..........can I ask you something...........I have a Johnson 100 hp 1985 (J100WMPLP) and have also the service manual, where it says there´s a decal on the motor with the timing specs....well, I don´t see any decal anywhere and because of that don´d know the max spark advance timing........what should I do?........thanks in advance
Very nice. Now go all the way and restore the shroud.
Hi Matt, great video. I have a 1989 175 XP. only firing on three cylinders. I've changed primary wires to coils, from coils that work and all coils seem to be good. Is it the power pack? Stator? Or maybe both? Hope yo
If it was mine I would swap the power packs with each other. If the problem follows it's the power-pack. If the problem stays it's the stator/timerbase. It's a free test.
Thanks for the knowledge... I'm having fits trying troubleshoot my 200hp johnson. Someone has put a bunch of new Ignition parts stater flywheel and I don't know if they knew what they were doing I don't know if they're using oEM parts I don't know a lot about it but they have replaced everything electrical on the motor and it has not ran since. You give a great tutorial but all that stuff's kind of intimidating I am mechanically inclined but that's working on motors and motorcycles and stuff this outboard motor business is completely different but I really want my bike running so I guess I'm gonna dive into it do it so you're probably gonna get like 200 more views just from me alone
Don't be intimidated. It gets easier the longer you look at it. Make sure you get an OEM service manual and talk to a professional if you are that concerned.
Impeller pitch and diameter is based on sea level operation. At higher elevation, you will lose RPM and may have to drop down one impeller size. Long use in corrosive conditions may create pin holes in the exhaust tube which builds up back pressure and reduces RPM. Excessive RPM is usually caused by air entering the pump. It can be caused also, during start up, if the leading edges of the blades are blunted from gravel. A rough boat bottom, keels or damage ahead of the intake can introduce air, as well as setting the motor too high.
After the butterfly’s snap shut and you tighten the screws what do you align the little roller wheel back to to the scribe line? Do you just move it there?
Just started 1982 70 Evinrude. Super high revving in neutral. Think I had been playing with the throttle cables when I was painting the body. What should I look at first?
So where are you located and when can I bring my boat by for this service?
I have a 1972 evinrude 135 it sounds like its in gear when i start the motor also sounds like its full throttle alao the prop spins while in neutral i have it on a motor mount off my boat but im going to need some help getting it running right i was wondering if you could shed any light on it as right now its pretty scary to start the motor and it sounds like it is running full out in neutral and insight would help
hay man I am not putting you down but in this video when you pointed out number 1 and 2 where I was looking from video did you have them turn around iam not trying to be smart about that going back and watching it again
YES! I got it backwards. Where I pointed to number 1 was number 2 good eye.
Hi ive noticed your primer switch is not in the run position is there a reason why i the same motor but a johnson gt175 my primer valve points to the bottom of the electic unit, its right up cold or warm but bogs down when u add throttle to it.
Hi Matt ive got a 1986 evinrude and we cant get the new CDI pack to work , do you have a video that i can learn from for the CDI Pack please , BTW love your videos.
I have a 1997 evinrude 115 hp ficht engine, I understand that the spark plugs need to be indexed but the manual doesn't quite illustrate it very well as to where the air fuel spray is located to line up the electrodes correctly. Can you help me with this?
Hey, I am not that familiar with the FICHT Ram Evinrudes. I mainly work on the 1979-1994ish crossflow/looper outboards. Is indexing the sparkplugs necessary on the FICHT outboards?
Hello Matt! I really appreciate your video on this subject. It’s very well done and gave me a lot of good info since I just got a 1989 Johnson get 150. I have one problem with the carb butter fly valves. They will not reach full open horizontal position. No matter what I try. Am I missing something? Thanks
Either your throttle cable is adjusted incorrectly or your wide open throttle stop needs to be adjusted to allow the arm to advance forward further
Would it be possible to have a word with you on this since I'm doing the same thing except on a 79 Evinrude 115hp. ??? example question why when I put the timing light on cylinder one plug the timing marks on the flywheel don't show at the timing pointer? Oddly it shows when I put it on Cylinder 4. Among other questions. What would be an easier way to have a conversation with you rather than typing here and waiting for a reply. We are not in the 80's anymore ya know. Much appreciated.
Do these carburetors have a air/fuel mixture screw possibly behind a brass plug or something. Got a lean sneeze on start up.
No, these carbs have no adjustments the jets are a fixed size from the factory. No tuning required.
Awesome. I have a problem with my 04 rude 225 that stall when I accelerate. Only does it sometimes. The diagnostic show CPS out of sync. Replace it still same issue. Any idea that will help? Thanks
Hey Matt I've got an old Johnson 150 v6 and when I've got it out of the water it runs good will go full throttle and then in water full throttle it acts like im giving it 30% throttle. Its not bogging or anything just won't give 100% throttle. My hub on prop is good throttle box will give me 100% throttle out of water i watch the butterflys open to make sure . Getting puzzled here
I had the exact same issue. Check the timer base plastic ring it can well and need grease. Make sure the timer base rotates freely. ua-cam.com/video/cH7iE25YJAY/v-deo.html Skip to 14:37
just FYI for everyone : its MUCH simpler than he shows, but complicates things with the pickup timing. all that really matters is you adjust idle RPM in forward gear to 600-700rpm, THEN you set your cam roller/throttle cam relationship with the hashmark. if you do it the other way around, you will now be out of synch. the actual timing degrees dont matter as it will be perfect after setting idle speed as mentioned on a healthy motor. WOT timing is a set and forget thing from the factory, and nearly all have been adjusted to 28 degrees or else they would be basket cases. static timing for that is much easier.
I have same motor and and at full throttle I get a loud metal on metal chirp stops when I back off then if I go back to full throttle it chirps like two pieces of metal rubbing anyideas
There are little metal clips under the flywheel that can rub. If it has the original timer base it's probably aluminum that can be off center if the plastic ring below it wears out. Hard to say.
I went through and set everything carbs are open about 1/8 idol neutral is the common when I took her out she acted like is was in safe mode have good spark all six timing is good I noticed that I had swapped starboard and port heat sensors around while rebuild heads one has oil line (unplugged) I use mixed gas would that have anything to do with it being in safe mode and is 1/8 open on the butterfly’s normal thanks your time bud you’ve helped me a lot btw I have the same motor just a year newer 1990 evinrude 150 xp
My power pack leads got mixed up she should run like a top now
Good information.
1985 evinrude 150 vro xp question in your video at 3:10/7:08/12:07 the blue thing under the fly wheel that piece of metal that goes in it what would cause that to pop out every time that you put it in full throttle? I can get it to click in, but it still pops back out when i put it in full throttle mines like one little black boot. Thanks your video is great!! If i had an email or something to send you the video i’d show you exactly what i mean but its the same spot as your blue on except mines metal and it has one single black boot that it slides into.
This one is plastic. It's called a ball and socket. They get worn out and the ball part just pops out of the timer base or the timing lever. You have to buy new parts. 2 ball ends and 2 sockets on this model. Make sure the timer base rotates freely.
@@MattsShop yeah it rotates freely i really wasn’t expecting such a quick reply I appreciate it. Is that an easy fix or should I probably take it somewhere I don’t wanna mess anything up. I’ve googled how to change ball and socket in a few different wordings I know the ball pulls out easily, but can’t figure out how to get the socket part out or get it back in when i get it out. Also is it normal for a boat remote to not go in forward when it’s not started, but as soon as its started it’ll go into forward. Sorry for 1000 questions. I appreciate your help idk I just bought the boat used 4 days ago, so i’m just figuring out stuff as I go.
Have a problem with my 96 Evinrude 48 spl, but I don't know where I need to to ask.
Ask it here I'll help
Hello, is there a gas regulator adjustment in the johnson v4 115 engine ?? if so, please give me instructions
Where are you located I got one that is giving me trouble
This might help get this boat running better idle fine no wot
So after all adjustments carb are open like eight of a inch neutral
They have to be fully closed, and then after all of the timing adjustments, they are held open a little. You can't just guess it.
Hey Matt, why do you have the 4* mark painted if the book shows 7 +\- 1*? You pointed out the 8 and 28 but I didn’t hear anything about the 3rd 4 degree mark reasoning. Please help.
Trying to tune my 86 70hp VRO Evinrude and I’m wondering did you set base idle timing at the 4 degrees or is that just for tolerances from manual? Is base idle timing supposed to be directly on TDC typically?
no. FORGET PICKUP TIMING for now! Loosen cam roller and let it flop around. remove throttle cable . using only the idle stop screw, adjust it so its 800rpm EXACTLY in forward gear in water not tied to a dock. shut motor off. now take cam roller and adjust throttle cam so they just barely touch at scribe line. now tighten cam roller screw, and back off idle stop screw exactly 1/2 turn. now idle should be 750rpm. re-install throttle cable and done. do not worry about the pickup "idle" timing number! its rpm that matters as timing will be perfect.
You mentioned the fuel today as opposed to the fuel in the past. I am going to assume that you mean regular unleaded fuel. It is obvious that high octane fuel will affect your timing as well. Will you shed some "timing" light on this please? No pun intended... Lol. Thanks Matt. Subbed and following with bell on. Much appreciated. Blessings from Ontario Canada!
EDIT:
I have a 1977 35hp Johnson. Want to tweak it a bit. Thanks!
I just run the cheapest gas possible. Like 87 Octane. The grade of the fuel does effect the timing. I would run whatever you run and set the timing to the manufacturer's specs. Get a timing light with a built in tachometer! It's the best for outboards.
@@MattsShop Thank you very much!
@@MattsShop Thank you very much. Appreciated!
I see you deal with alot of boats. I have a Johnson 110 v4 vro. Starts right up and runs good at high idle. But normal idle it shuts off. New plugs. He said carbs was cleaned. Just bought it yesterday. Any ideas
Is the fuel pump diaphragm in good shape or are there any hidden fuel filters at the gas tank? The pickup timing might be off. Is the little plastic roller cam on the timing tree in good shape?
I will check. I know there's one fuel filter at the back of the boat. A clear filter.
I just bought it yesterday. I seen your video about spark plugs. This boat has 3 new ngk and one older champion. Not sure what's going on there
Hi. Do you happen to have an OMC test prop #387388 you don't need anymore?
No, sorry I don't use a test prop.
thank you
Welcome!
On the 1986 150 evanrude xp is there a idle adjusting screw on the carb
On the timing tree
@@MattsShop what is the timing tree
Hi. How can I set the wot timing on my 89 48 rude without a test wheel or at speed?
According to him your suppost to sit on back of the boat doing 50 mph with a timing light lol
Hi Matt, I am about to replace the stator and the trigger timer base on my 1990 Johnson GT150. Is it absolutely mandatory that I re time my engine?
Yes, you absolutely have to check it or have a professional check it. It's dangerous to do on the water. The timing will be off with the new part.
Did you ever get yours going? I have the same motor
@@daviddrabek5834 yes. replaced both the stator and the trigger timer base and it ran like a new engine.
@@angler1204 okay I’m starting the process now. Thanks for getting back to me
I have a v4 115 hp. The carburators doesn't open 100% but I still have like 6000rpm. Why is that?
I have a 1996 112 HP Evenrude, and I been having a hard time getting the motor to start, sometimes I spend about 15 to 20 minutes trying to get it to start and stay running. Do you have any suggestions on what could be the problem? Thank you!
post compression #s and verify primer is squirting fuel.
Wish you was in Connecticut
I'm not near there!
I have a 1984 Evanrude Super40. I believe it is identical to the 84 Norsemen. Sold to another part of the world and name something different.
Is it possible to take a electric start system from a 84 Evan rude and adapted over to the 84 super40.
My problem is that you damn near have to be the Incredible Hulk to pull start this motor and if you're not paying attention it will pull you right back into it.
So I'm hope is that I can take the electric start setup off of the 84 Evinrude 40 and it will fit onto the 1984 Evan rude super 40.
Thankyou. 🙏🙏
Hey I like your videos I’m new to outboard engines! I have some questions any possible way I could contact you?
I wish you made a video on a 1991 115hp Johnson TJ115TLEIE 😢
Have you heard of the "Joe Reeves" WOT timing setting?
Yes, I have. I have tried it twice on two separate engines. Could never get the timing to advance right. It would always end up being set WAYYY too far advanced when running.
Joe. R. Method is. Wot static minus 4 deg. Has anyone actually tested this ? Compared. With a test wheel or at speed?
Hey man im not sure where your located but in georgia i got a johnson gt 150 vro so my shift cable broke i replaced it ran great for id say 29 hours i was at mid speed and my boat started acting like it was out of gas long story short i got it runnig better once i pulled the boat out of the water and messed with the control cables on the hose but now when i put my boat in the water once i hit plane my alarm start going off and acts like its outta gas any idea what could be causing this?
The carb butterfly throttle plates have to be completely flat at Wide Open Throttle position. When you change those cables out it messes with the timing some too. It can be a pain to adjust the cable back to where it was. Where in Georgia are u?
@@MattsShop i hear you man yeah im for sure stumped on this rate now im a jet ski technician but outboards are completely diffrent and i live in acworth about 10 mins from lake allatoona
@@matthewrobert2888 If it was mine I would adjust the throttle cable at the outboard with the little black wheel until the timing tree is completely straight up and down and check to make sure the throttle butterflies are completely flat at Wide Open Throttle (throttle pushed all the way down). I'd check everything WITHOUT the engine running. I wouldn't touch any of the timing adjustments. Just like at 1:26
@@MattsShop right on yeah imma try what your saying and unfortunately i messed with the silver arm linkage and the idler adjuster but i didnt mess with the very top one by the flywheel i left that alone do you think if adjust everything the way u explain and stop up to the timing light part id be go to go because it ran fine till the cable broke and i started messing with those settings
If you adjust the little silver wheel, it adjusts the idle "pickup" timing. It's hard to say. I always check the WOT timing because I don't want to damage the engine. Anytime you mess with the timing tree you are supposed to do a full "link and sync".
Hey Matt, how do you do this for a 2001 Johnson 115?
You're going to need a factory service manual for that. That engine is much newer with the optical senor and all that complicated stuff.:(
Hey Matt I have a 1986 110 evinrude and it was working great then one day I seen some smoke as water pickup got clogged with weeds. I stop engine and stuff but would never run right. I put 4 new coils on, plugs wires and rebuild carbs and fuel pump now in messing with link n sync. I got it on plane the other day and runs and sounds awesome but now I can’t get it on plane and it keeps dying when I give it gas. My cam follower pickup has so much play in it!!!? I’m confused if I upload a video of it could you help me out thanks brother!!! Cheer 🍻🍻
All compression is with in 5% max is 105
Yea, upload a video. I'll look at it. Send me an email. If it's the plastic roller you can replace it.
Hey Matt,1986 Johnson v4 90hp.How do I determine the cylinder numbers? Thx.
Odd number on right side even on left 1-3-2-4 starting from the top
Angel Eddie castro de puerto Rico 🇵🇷 megusta mucho gut
Hey!
I have a question my boat doesn’t idle well at times and sometimes you can start it no problem but as soon as I put it in gear it dies it has a hot foot so I try to give a little gas and then put it in gear but it just dies do you think this adjustment will fix my problem?
It could, but people talk a lot of smack on hot foots. Boats are really ment to run at steady RPM.
@@MattsShop yeah I’m not a fan it came on the boat
Hey did you figure out what the issue was, I have the exact same problem
Did you time it ? When
Hi Matt, I have a 1978 140 that I got running, but the timer advance/plate doesn't return all the way to the stop. It idles fast, so I think this might be the cause. It seems to be the wiring harness restricting it. Have you ever seen this? Does it even matter?
follow the procedure in the manual. you do have a service manual right? it clearly says to make sure you shift to FORWARD detent, then half way back to neutral and pull the slack out them fit cable in trunnion. adjust thumbwheel as needed. key here is idle stop screw is resting firmly on the block. if its off of it, you did something wrong. very easy to set these up properly.
@ct1762 Thanks, I'm trying to find a manual. I adjusted the idle stop up against the block yesterday, and got the throttle cam follower aligned. Made my TDC mark on the flywheel. For some reason the cast timing marks on the flywheel are waaay off. Like 3" away from my new marks. Today I plan to remove the flywheel and see if the key is sheared off. Cheers
@@wayne3340 no problem. If the TDC marks are that far off good thinking about the key, but it wouldn't even start if it was that far off. when the flywheel slips, it usually throws the timing out so much it just pops and never starts, let alone idle. definitely worth checking, and the magnet for the timer (inside ring magnet). if that slips time for a fresh flywheel. are you sure you are using the #1 timing grid and have the exact midpoint calculated properly with the piston stop? no need to index the flywheel as he shows... either its working or it isnt. a much quicker way to index is simply stick a pencil in each cylinder and find rough TDC and make your mark. if the number flickers or you see another cylinders #, its misfiring. but no need to know exact timing of the other cylinders.
@ct1762 Thanks for your reply. It fires up real nice, and "idles" at about 2200 until warm, then drops down to about 1800 rpm. It revs up from the carb, but under load it hesitates. It will plane out if I'm very careful with the throttle, but only the odd time it will catch, and pull hard and smooth for a second. I have new plugs and wires on order. I bought a timing light and I'll go out and check timing this evening. I built a little test tank out of a 35 gallon storage bin, and I cut out around the lid to keep the water in. I can actually run it in gear like that so I'll try that again too. Thx
@ct1762 I didn't really answer your questions. I am sure my TDC mark is accurate. Standing behind the boat, facing the heads, the top right head is number 1 correct? It's the highest, then top left, bottom right and bottom left, at least that's what I've been told. As far as #1 timing grid, good question. It only has one timing grid, and it starts with TDC, then has marks for retarding the timing. I don't understand why they did that, but when I search images of a 1978 140 flywheel, it looks correct.
chào bạn tối có thể mua những cuốn tài liệu này không
eBay
You in FL?
No 😢
What book do you have? Like brand name
OEM OMC Factory service manual from eBay.
Hey bud where are you located. You need to be paid for your information. I would like to bring my motors to you so you can fix them please
Thanks! Do you live in the south?
@@MattsShop thanks for getting back with me. I am in Florida right now and I am moving from Virginia. I’m making trips back and forth every weekend to get my stuff to Florida, Daytona area and office in the Gainesville area
Thanks for this video. I have a new to me 90's evinrude 90 like this one that starts easy, and runs smooth, but only gets to 4000 rpm, and seems low on power. I'm going to start with the stuff in this video, thanks!
Did you ever figure out the issue? I am currently dealing with the same thing. Had to get some fix on spark to a cylinder, but its still hitting only 4000. Rebuilt carbs, replaced fuel pump and all fuel line/filters so im hoping that will do the trick. I'd love to hear back from you thanks!
@@chupe7561 Nope. I replaced a coil pack that I thought was the issue but that wasn't it. I don't have a lot of money in the boat, it isn't my forever boat, it runs well enough, so I decided to just run it like it is. I get about 26mph with just me on it. Not blisteringly fast, but it gets there. I took it down to fort de Soto a couple of months ago and had a blast! Sorry I can't be of any help. If you figure yours out please let me know.
@@RunninOnCoal understood im in the same place. Currently replaced plugs, power pack, fuel filters, fuel line, fuel pump, removed VRO, tested all coils and spark, new timing base. Basically at the point where the stator is the last of the worries there if the new fuel items doesnt fix it. I'll report back if I get a better run next time its out. I'm also going to remove the prop its currently a 13x14 right now which is definitely not helping with the rpm.
@@chupe7561 did you find the issue. My 97 evinrude wont go past 2500rpm
post compression #s here 1st!
the engine smokes blue after adding throttle, but only at high speed
What's the tip speed
Depends what pitch prop you run.
Where u located...need some maintenance
South. Wbu?
@@MattsShop southern va
@@MattsShop Danville, VA area
Iv got a 1989 Johnson gt150 looks identical to yours. Would this work with my motor
Yes, GT150 is the Johnson version of the 150XP.
@@MattsShop thank you. I do believe iv been running way to advanced on my wide open throttle timming. Now for the fun part of flying at 5000 rpm up the river while adjusting it.😬
Everything was good, until you said you can use a elec tach that hooks to the plug wire. They are total junk, to prove it I hooked up 2 of them, they were off by 600rpm from each other at wide open throttle.
What are you gonna use for a tach then. Boat dash tachs are garbage accurate.
I'm not buying you last video that said the pickup coil was bad 🤔 they almost Never go bad it's always the cdi controller and I see you have a new cdi controller on the motor now coincidence? Not sure why you would do that but whatever 😉 the controllers go bad all the time even new ones go bad the puck up coils NEVER just saying
If the pickup coil goes bad its usually due to the voltage regulator going bad and melting the epoxy and windings in the stator
Nice! I have a Xp model as well a 1987 200 XP with only 350 something hours on it. It's been sitting abandoned for years but I'm going to try and get her running again. Fog the cylinders and let her soak and try to rotate the flywheel first. Also have a new water pump to put in I'm not sure she'll need it but I guess it's better to be safe right. Nothing like a good old 2 stroke OMC outboard!!
Nice, that's a great find! She'll run once you do all the stuff you said. That is a rare outboard now a days.
@@MattsShop I actually bought this boat and motor from my dad years ago. We got the motor brand new in 1988 as a left over I believe. We have had a few minor issues with it like the powerpack and a thermostat but she was running pretty good the last time we had it out. I just hope the VRO system is still working maybe I'll run a separate gas tank with fresh gas and a pre-mix of 50:1 first and make sure the oil level in the vro tank is dropping. I think there's a video on how to check vro on here somewhere.
Worst part about outboards is bad gas causing rubber fuel component death.
You must replace all old rubber fuel lines, ALL OF THEM, use stihl brand hoses and submersible rated gas fuel line specifically. AND then you must check for air leaks, because clamps will not all clamp and there are other dodgy parts like plastic fuel line manifold splitters that crack and leak. ALL rubber lines, even the scavenging lines, choke lines, and vacuum lines. ALL OF THEM.
Yes diaphragm too should be replaced. Your main thing is air leaks and fuel leaks, tiny leaks will wreck the normal smooth operating of all these cursed shottilly engineered outboards.
REPLACE ANY HARD GASKET, check with fingernail, if you cant smush it, replace it so it can seal. Hard on hard surfaces DONT SEAL, so you have to check this with carb bowl seals and fuel pump seals.
Your timing, and linkages and carbs are probably all right. the jets get clogged on carbs, dont replace them, clean them, then REPLACE ALL RUBBER FUEL LINES AND RUBBER FUEL PARTS
THEN check for air leaks with a simple vaccuum gauge which those are cheap and you can rent them. When floats are up when gas is full in carburetor, you should be able to pressurize the system to 5 psi. Pressurize after bulb where line goes into tank, just where you put pressure in to check leaks. You can use stainless steel aircraft lock wire, to twist and seal very tight all of the connections. On my boat this is nessesary, the tank pickup barb is not standard, it doesnt clamp tight or evenly enough with stainless hose clamps, or zip ties, or plastic tooth clamps. You have to really cinch it tight with the stainless steel wire, twist it up tight. GO around hose twice then twist tight while pulling. This way is better than any type of clamp as far as sealing goes.
Also, use a dab of silicone grease around the quick disconnect, those ALWAYS have the potential to leak. They want you to buy a brand new one every season and then, they have such bad quality parts, they leak and leave you stranded or pissed off that day as it wasted time and rescources getting out on the water.
This is actually best advice, follow all of it, and you will have a good running motor.
Replace all rubber fuel parts and or gaskets. Check air leaks, check hose clamps. Buy brand new proper size hose clamps, not ones that have been bent up. Not oversized ones either. Or use stainless lock wire, and get good at that.
Its just about that simple.
OMC made these things unnecessarily complicated. I have a 1999 Johnson 150 and it’s a bitch to work on.
They did. The best ones were the older ones like this.
I have a 89 xp 150 can't find a manual do u know the timing specs for mine any help is appreciated
You need the manual! Got mine on eBay. It depends on the model number. This motor was 28 degrees BTDC at Wide open throttle over at least 5000 RPM. It's dangerous to set the WOT timing I don't reccomend it unless you know exactly what you're doing (no offense).
Got a question, did you static time the wide open throttle before you Lake tested.