Tremendous news, so glad you were able to work with Aputure to put forth a fix for this issue. I've got some high speed stuff coming up so this is supremely helpful.
You have a fantastic ability to clearly and concisely explain these concepts, and are so generous with your time. If you ever felt the urge to create a paid online course or somesuch thing I would be there day one!
This is perfect timing, I'm moving into high speed video in the next few weeks and you've just solved a major headache before it's even happened. Thanks Andrew!
Finally you made this video with PWM and voltage change explanation. I thought about this many times but can't find info about LED dimming in online manuals.
Hey Andrew! Cheers for the videos, informative as always. I don't plan on being a Gaffer in my career but your detailed explanations are clear and I can't help but learn from them. Best virtual apprenticeship out there.
I believe some fixtures also combined PWM and voltage dimming, where once the unit will visibly begin to flicker on screen it will switch over to the other method (often below 10% - which is why many units begin to shift color under that level).
Thank you. Excellent, clear and concise video as ever and I especially like the white board! Love a bit of detail! I’ve been using the 1200D for my high speed work on the Veo 4K but only at 100% which explains why I never came across this. Have you seen the Nova 600 panels flicker? They are terrible for it and I can only shoot 250, 500 or 1000 fps with them.
iirc, the LS 600C had a similar issue. Do you know if they've also pushed this change for the 600C as well? Would this change even work with a LS 600C? I've tried checking their website but I can't find information about this recalling either fixtures.
This solution works with the 1200d because it is mono colour. It won't work with the 600c because at no stage during normal operation are all the emitters above 50%
From the manufacturers website, the color shift is 2% at 6000 hours. does that mean by 50,000 hours, the color shift is 16% plus? -and can you replace the LED element itself if there's a failure, or do you throw away the whole light?
I don't know the answer, but I sold a lot of HMI lights recently. I had owned some of them for 15 to 16 years. The lights had an hour counter clock on them to keep track of globe replacement. Only two of them had done more than 1000 hours. I think the highest was around 1250 hours. So based on that I think I'll be retired or dead before any of this is an issue.
Well, I hope you're not dead before its an issue! -i get your point, but LEDs have wildly different estimated time before failures. It might make sense, if it lasts the 50,000 hours as claimed by apurature, At 7 hours a day, that would be about 20 years. And that's constant use every day the color shift is rated at 2% at 6000 hours. Not sure if that means 16% by the time its at end of life. And in the end, the fact that these put out so much light for so little amps might make every other consideration moot for a lot of users. I live in NYC and I'm starting to see a few of these around, although HMI are still the majority. I've seen one company that retrofits LED modules inside traditional tungsten or HMI fixtures as well. Great channel BTW. Thank you for the good info!
One issue I have found as lights get older is the cooling fans die. I've had this issue cook a dedo and Forza 500. Both lights lost colour render as a result
@@gaffergear that is a GREAT insight. Maybe it even warrants a sticker being placed on the back of the light reminding one to check the fan. I'm definitely going to invest in this technology (how can one not) and I think in a few years there will be even more innovation. I'm not sure but it might be better to have one fixture where you can swap out different color temperature modules. Keep up the great reviews!
thanks andrew! when running in the high speed mode, will the other dimming system shorten the lifespan of the light, or does that also only happen below 50% brightness?
I don't think it would reduce life span by a noticeable amount, but just in case I will be running PWC unless shooting at high speed. But I'm not that worried because even if a light I purchased this year only runs 20,000 hours I will be retired or dead before it's a problem anyway.
Hey there Andrew & everyone else! I have a question that might be a bit off topic when it comes to this specific video, but i figuered since this is the latest upload here on the channel it might has a higher chance of being answered. So i got myself the Aputure 300dii as well as the 600d Pro and some modifiers like the Lantern 90 and the Lightdome 2. The Problem that I have is this: When i try to gel either one of those lights (I am using the tungsten to daylight filter set by Lee Filters as well as the color effects lighting pack and the tungsten to daylight kit) the gels start to smoke and will melt shortly after. That happens when i clipped the gels in front of the lighting dish as well as when I'm using the gel holder wich comes with the Light Dome II. By the way i am just starting out so please bare with me if i did anything wrong. Do i got myself the wrong gels? Are there gels out there that are more heat resistant than the ones i discribed? Are mine not made for COB lights? Or can I only use them at 20% power? I really do love the colors these gels are able to produce, until they melt that is. I also got myself the nova 300c and i would love to be able to mix those lights since the nova has this cool option of gel mode. I hope I am in the right place and every answer is much appreciated. And if i am using them wrong (wich I suppose i do) - let me know! Thanks & have a good one :)
How strong are your gels? Are you trying to gel from daylight to full tungsten? The more the gel changes the light, the more heat it will absorb. I have gelled an 800w COB light on the end of a reflector dish many times with no issues, but that is only a 1/8 +green or 1/4 +green gel.
@@cagf2013 Thank you for your answer! I was using the Lee Filter gel with the number 181 from their color effects filter set. It is pretty dark, but shouldn't they all be safe to use? Regardless of their strengh? Thanks again!
I mainly try to get rich colors for music videos and interview backgrounds and that kind of stuff. But i also do have the color (whitebalance) correction sets i mentioned earlyer. Do you have any tip on how to use those strong gels without burning them other than dimming the light? And if there are special heat resistant gels, do you have any recomandations?
@@ez8937 ah, that will be your problem. That is a very strong gel, and deep blue is one of the worst for absorbing light and melting etc. Unfortunately strong gels just need to be placed further away from the light to avoid melting etc. Rosco and LEE do what they can to make them heat resistant but they are just sheets of plastic at the end of the day, so our expectations have to be realistic.
If you want a long life span for your light then run it at 100% and use good old-fashioned wire scrims or other methods of lessening the intensity while maximizing your light's longevity. Use the tricks of your elders.😉
So, this is the only channel I drop a like only mins in, as it’s playing. Always learn something here. Thank you, Andrew🙌🏻
Excellent. One of the best explanations of LED dimming I've seen, and I'm a gaffer with a BSc in electronics. You should be a teacher.
this channel an yr methods are just the jam!
Fantastic explanation. I really appreciate you doing these videos.
Tremendous news, so glad you were able to work with Aputure to put forth a fix for this issue. I've got some high speed stuff coming up so this is supremely helpful.
This channel is beyond excellent
Thank you for keeping us informed with all the important details Andrew. Amazing camera, lighting technology and options these days.
You have a fantastic ability to clearly and concisely explain these concepts, and are so generous with your time. If you ever felt the urge to create a paid online course or somesuch thing I would be there day one!
Thanks for your information. So useful.
This is perfect timing, I'm moving into high speed video in the next few weeks and you've just solved a major headache before it's even happened. Thanks Andrew!
Thank you andrew, i came across this problem the other day shooting 1500fps. will update today!
Once again, clear and precise explanation about something which. most of us find hard to understand. Many thanks Andrew 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Finally you made this video with PWM and voltage change explanation. I thought about this many times but can't find info about LED dimming in online manuals.
You are a legend i kept wondering why i was getting flickering i thought it was my camera.
Fantastic as always mate!
Hey Andrew! Cheers for the videos, informative as always. I don't plan on being a Gaffer in my career but your detailed explanations are clear and I can't help but learn from them. Best virtual apprenticeship out there.
The man with the info
Who knew! Thank you for the online training😀
Invaluable as ever Andrew. Thank you!
Thank you very much for the information. You Rock!
Bill Nye - The Lighting Guy! Great explanation, I will now sound smarter on set!
undervolting LED and components should extend not hurt the lifespan
I believe some fixtures also combined PWM and voltage dimming, where once the unit will visibly begin to flicker on screen it will switch over to the other method (often below 10% - which is why many units begin to shift color under that level).
Could well be, I've seen lights that have an visable bump at around 20% when dimming, that could be the switch over point.
Andrew "absolute legend "Locke
Thank you so much for the time you put into this video.
great explanation!! Thanks!!
So informative I don’t even have this light but that’s interesting to know about LED’s
Great insights and explanation, thanks!
Time to review the Nova p600c, Andrew! Firmware has been updated. Let's see your measurements, please :)
Another great explanation.
Great video once again 👏🏾 👍🏽
Amazing!
Thank you. Excellent, clear and concise video as ever and I especially like the white board! Love a bit of detail! I’ve been using the 1200D for my high speed work on the Veo 4K but only at 100% which explains why I never came across this. Have you seen the Nova 600 panels flicker? They are terrible for it and I can only shoot 250, 500 or 1000 fps with them.
What do you think would be the better option.
- 2x 1200D pro 1x 600D pro
- 1x 2400b Nanlux 2x 500b Forza
I been waiting
Hi, love your video as always, informative! Can you do a review on Aputure amaran f22c? Thanks!
Up bow
iirc, the LS 600C had a similar issue. Do you know if they've also pushed this change for the 600C as well? Would this change even work with a LS 600C? I've tried checking their website but I can't find information about this recalling either fixtures.
This solution works with the 1200d because it is mono colour. It won't work with the 600c because at no stage during normal operation are all the emitters above 50%
Awesome video again. Question: Do you know if the 600D/X have redundant backup hardware also?
From the manufacturers website, the color shift is 2% at 6000 hours. does that mean by 50,000 hours, the color shift is 16% plus? -and can you replace the LED element itself if there's a failure, or do you throw away the whole light?
I don't know the answer, but I sold a lot of HMI lights recently. I had owned some of them for 15 to 16 years. The lights had an hour counter clock on them to keep track of globe replacement.
Only two of them had done more than 1000 hours. I think the highest was around 1250 hours.
So based on that I think I'll be retired or dead before any of this is an issue.
Well, I hope you're not dead before its an issue! -i get your point, but LEDs have wildly different estimated time before failures. It might make sense, if it lasts the 50,000 hours as claimed by apurature, At 7 hours a day, that would be about 20 years. And that's constant use every day the color shift is rated at 2% at 6000 hours. Not sure if that means 16% by the time its at end of life. And in the end, the fact that these put out so much light for so little amps might make every other consideration moot for a lot of users. I live in NYC and I'm starting to see a few of these around, although HMI are still the majority. I've seen one company that retrofits LED modules inside traditional tungsten or HMI fixtures as well. Great channel BTW. Thank you for the good info!
One issue I have found as lights get older is the cooling fans die. I've had this issue cook a dedo and Forza 500. Both lights lost colour render as a result
@@gaffergear that is a GREAT insight. Maybe it even warrants a sticker being placed on the back of the light reminding one to check the fan. I'm definitely going to invest in this technology (how can one not) and I think in a few years there will be even more innovation. I'm not sure but it might be better to have one fixture where you can swap out different color temperature modules. Keep up the great reviews!
Ps what is the meter you have that measures flicker?
thanks andrew! when running in the high speed mode, will the other dimming system shorten the lifespan of the light, or does that also only happen below 50% brightness?
I don't think it would reduce life span by a noticeable amount, but just in case I will be running PWC unless shooting at high speed. But I'm not that worried because even if a light I purchased this year only runs 20,000 hours I will be retired or dead before it's a problem anyway.
Thanks Andrew! Any chance of an aputure f22/22c review?
Shooting it now
Hey there Andrew & everyone else!
I have a question that might be a bit off topic when it comes to this specific video, but i figuered since this is the latest upload here on the channel it might has a higher chance of being answered.
So i got myself the Aputure 300dii as well as the 600d Pro and some modifiers like the Lantern 90 and the Lightdome 2.
The Problem that I have is this:
When i try to gel either one of those lights (I am using the tungsten to daylight filter set by Lee Filters as well as the color effects lighting pack and the tungsten to daylight kit) the gels start to smoke and will melt shortly after. That happens when i clipped the gels in front of the lighting dish as well as when I'm using the gel holder wich comes with the Light Dome II. By the way i am just starting out so please bare with me if i did anything wrong.
Do i got myself the wrong gels? Are there gels out there that are more heat resistant than the ones i discribed? Are mine not made for COB lights? Or can I only use them at 20% power?
I really do love the colors these gels are able to produce, until they melt that is. I also got myself the nova 300c and i would love to be able to mix those lights since the nova has this cool option of gel mode.
I hope I am in the right place and every answer is much appreciated. And if i am using them wrong (wich I suppose i do) - let me know!
Thanks & have a good one
:)
I am from germany by the way so my english may be a bit off ^^
How strong are your gels? Are you trying to gel from daylight to full tungsten? The more the gel changes the light, the more heat it will absorb. I have gelled an 800w COB light on the end of a reflector dish many times with no issues, but that is only a 1/8 +green or 1/4 +green gel.
@@cagf2013 Thank you for your answer!
I was using the Lee Filter gel with the number 181 from their color effects filter set. It is pretty dark, but shouldn't they all be safe to use? Regardless of their strengh?
Thanks again!
I mainly try to get rich colors for music videos and interview backgrounds and that kind of stuff. But i also do have the color (whitebalance) correction sets i mentioned earlyer. Do you have any tip on how to use those strong gels without burning them other than dimming the light? And if there are special heat resistant gels, do you have any recomandations?
@@ez8937 ah, that will be your problem. That is a very strong gel, and deep blue is one of the worst for absorbing light and melting etc.
Unfortunately strong gels just need to be placed further away from the light to avoid melting etc. Rosco and LEE do what they can to make them heat resistant but they are just sheets of plastic at the end of the day, so our expectations have to be realistic.
If you want a long life span for your light then run it at 100% and use good old-fashioned wire scrims or other methods of lessening the intensity while maximizing your light's longevity. Use the tricks of your elders.😉
Grt.
😂 “I couldn’t spell PWM”