This is exactly what I was looking for! Thank you so much! I have a 2003 5MT JeepKJ with the NV3550 -- bought for $1800 to use for plowing and light hauling (like garden tractors and dirt). It's a workhorse. It came with the NP231 of course because of the NV3550. Just bought a NP242 for the same reasons you did (as well as a NP231 in case the NP242 doesn't work out) which is how I landed on your video. You quickly helped me realize that I'll still need a couple parts from the junkyard to do the NP242 swap. Thank you so much for the info about the manual transmission compatibility and the wiring, seriously, the sharing of information like this saves folks so much time, thank you.
Well hey it's awesome this intel also applies to the KJ! Very cool you found a manual one! However, there is some additional information that I didn't know when I made this 242 Swap video. I have it documented at 13:27 in this video: ua-cam.com/video/h138NSGFI7o/v-deo.html skip to 13:27 You may need to install a longer input shaft on the NP242 before mating it to an NV3550. On the XJ at least, they only had medium length input shafts - but my Jeep knowledge ends in 2001. I have no idea what input shafts the KJ used. It may require a bit more digging. Also, the dashboard lights are probably on a different circuit and might work differently in the KJ. But the swap should be possible.
If I remember correctly I believe it was 96 that was the wiring hell year, haven't ever heard that about the 97, from everything I know its compatible with 97-01
I wouldn't really consider swapping out a 231 for a 242 an upgrade. It really depends on what you're planning on doing with your XJ/ZJ. I swapped out the 249 for a 242 in my 96 ZJ. The reason I did it is, it was cheaper to buy a good used 242, and put a heavy duty chain and sprockets in it. Than it was to just replace the fluid coupler in the 249.I did all the work myself,except shortening the driveshaft. Yes,I had to shorten the driveshaft. I installed a 98 XJ 242 and it has an external slip yoke. The 96 249 had an internal slip yoke on the output shaft. I had to get the drive shaft shortened by about 3 - 4 inches.
just finished the swap and i am now getting vibs at 30-40 mph, rewatched the video to find that the same drive shaft can be used, my first thought was the driveshaft but now i am not sure
So I'm assuming you put a different driveshaft in alongside your transfer case, and had vibrations at 30-40mph, and then you put in your original driveshaft, and have the same problems? If the problem only started happening immediately after changing the transfer case and nothing else, then by process of elimination I would bet there might be something wrong with the transfer case. Where did you get this transfer case from? what vehicle did it come from? How many miles are on it? Did you reuse your front driveshaft? Are you on a lift? I don't know if I'll be able to help
@@WAEMIDIV same everything, stock rear shaft, got it fairly cheap from a 98 zj, went into an 01' no lift... was hoping that maybe the 242 is slightly longer and causing driveshaft issues, but process of elimination makes sense if both boxes are truly the same length... thanks for the quick response!
@@WAEMIDIV took the rear driveshaft off, drove around in 4hi at 30 and had no issues, rebuilt the driveshaft and getting same vibrations again, its only at 30-35 mph so i drove it to work anyways, im guessing a bad box like suggested...was reading about a "hub synchronizer" so im going to look into that and read some forums....going to throw the 231 back in until i can rebuild the 242 but if its a bent shaft i need another box.
I’m confused, my 98ZJ has the 231 T-case and it is AWD. I am swapping in a 242 from junkyard that shows to be a 4WD. Completely opposite of your saying???
lol, subaru mode. Are you still running the u-joint front axles, if so do you notice any binding aka scooting in turning in awd? Or, did you change to cv style front axles?
There was never any binding, no. The open differential in the transfer case will absorb any little irregularities like that. But I also didn't often use the AWD and when I did I was never making very sharp turns.
I have a factory installed version. No hopping or binding. If I recall, the power wasn't 50-50 front back, but more like 45-55 and that prevented the hopping.
I had the 242 in my 98 ZJ which had the u-joint front axle shafts, and yes, it had a slight bit of binding action going on when in full time 4WD mode, I don't think the limited slip rear diff helped much either LOL.
So orginally my 99 xj had a np231 in it. Which I thought it was as well because of the bezel plate. When I went to have a sye installed it turned out that it was actually np242 so i couldnt get it installed. Now that I know its a np242 i noticed it wont go into fulltime only part time. What would be the reasoning for that?
That's why you need the shift gate. The NP231 shift gate probably doesn't have enough room for the lever to snap all the way back into full time mode, before it goes sideways and into neutral
How did you fix the azzy design works shift linkage from locking up when you're in 4lo. With mine the articulating nuts linkage gets parallel with the transfer case side link and I can't get out of 4lo without going under and pushing it out.
I only had this issue with the 242 on a manual transmission, I changed the configuration in such a way that allowed it *just* enough of an angle to be knocked out of 4Lo. I demonstrate this in the Manual Swap Part 3. I never had the issue with an automatic
got any hints on swapping an 2003 NP242 from Grand Cherokee (WJ) to a NV3550 TJ. my confusion is the input shaft side. The 231 appears to be long input gear shaft to mate with 5speed?? while the WJ is short and mated with an auto (42RE)?? sorta confused... not finding actual measurements of what long and short is. NP231 pulled off my 5speed has input shaft of about 1 3/8 inches coming out front of it. All things in this situation appear to be 23 spline
The Input shaft length of the transfer case is determined by the transmission it was originally mounted to. The NV3550 cases all have a long input shaft, and usually the automatic-mounted cases will have a medium (AW4) or short (42RE) input shaft. The NP242 was never available with a manual transmission, so you will never find a long input shaft NP242. You will have to swap the input shaft yourself to make it work
@@WAEMIDIV what have read but not found verification yet is the long shaft is same inside both NP231 and 242... if that is the case then dont have to search for a long 242 shaft.. just pull the one from my 231. Other wonder is... short shaft of 242... while not the best thing to mate with 3550... it still works.... from what read (but not verified)
@coachgeo Yes the 231 uses the same type of input shaft, so you can put that in your 242 I would not use a short input shaft with an NV3550. It does still connect, but you'll only have like 0.6" of spline engagement, so if you stomp on the gas hard enough you could shear the splines right off
@@redryder7504 not yet... I snafued and ordered wrong replacement input. Got another one but just getting MB_TJ running is more important (was in middle of engine swap under a tarp and winter hit before could finish.) Will be end of june probably. (am retiring then jumping on it)
I got mine from RockAuto, make sure you get the NP242 sensor; it is different than the NP231 www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/jeep,1999,cherokee,4.0l+l6,1431776,electrical-switch+&+relay,transfer+case+switch,13823
I forget exactly but there's not really a top speed for 4wd Hi, the limit at which you can switch the selector is at 50mph though. If you need 4wd at any speed higher than 50mph though you should probably slow down
@@WAEMIDIV thanks! Only had the (96) jeep for six or so months. Started to snow, so.. trying to sort out 4wd operations. Thought you had to go into neutral, at a speed under three mph to switch from 2wd to 4wd?? Not sure about switching out of 4wd. I got a find an operators manual (the repair manual doesn't say anything about it).
@@Jerry-vz4ix you're thinking of 4Lo 4Hi can be toggled at any speed below 50mph, and switch back to 2wd at any speed. 4Lo is to be engaged/ disengaged ONLY when the transmission is in neutral, and you're not moving/ moving very slow (less than 3mph) You should find a long parking lot and try 4Lo, just remember to only drive in a straight line because Part Time can't be used on dry pavement unless you go straight.
2:14 As I stated in the video, I never do any extreme offloading, and I live in a miserable snowy environment where winter lasts half the year. Not everything is about sheer strength.
Because the connector on the switch itself is different, without splicing the new connector onto the old harness will mean neither "part time" nor "full time" will work. I figured if I wanted the Part Time light to work, I'd need to splice on the connector, and at that point may as well run a new wire for Full Time but you don't need the dashboard lights at all, they don't do anything aside from tell you you're in 4wd.
@@gersonruiz1714 You need the '99 pigtail wired onto your '00 harness, exactly what I did in the video. I used a '99 on an '01, which is exactly the same process
@@gersonruiz1714 I got mine from a parted-out 1999, so that's basically a pick-n-pull lol. I have no idea where to find NP242 indicator switch connectors, but RockAuto has them for the NP231: www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/jeep,2001,cherokee,4.0l+l6,1373666,electrical-connector,4wd+indicator+light+switch+connector,621 you may find some luck on this forum I found but don't have time to read through: www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1160290
Well that depends where you get your stuff from. I got a used transfer case with 230,000 miles on it for $110, and the azzy linkage was about $80, so that's about $200 for me, not including tools or other small tidbits here and there. If you buy a brand new or remanufacuted case it'll be somewhere in the thousands I would guess
![Jeep Cherokee: Transfer Case Options & How to Use 4wd Correctly ['84-'01 XJ]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/H88TFvHmfo0/mqdefault.jpg)
![Jeep Cherokee: Transfer Case Options & How to Use 4wd Correctly ['84-'01 XJ]](/img/tr.png)
![Jeep Cherokee: 2wd to 4x4 Swap: Everything You Need to Know to Install Factory 4wd [‘87-’01 XJ]](/img/n.gif)
I can feel the pent up anger while trying to remove that shift gate
Throwing part's across the driveway is epic!!! Lol been there a few time's ✌🤛🏁
This is exactly what I was looking for! Thank you so much! I have a 2003 5MT JeepKJ with the NV3550 -- bought for $1800 to use for plowing and light hauling (like garden tractors and dirt). It's a workhorse. It came with the NP231 of course because of the NV3550. Just bought a NP242 for the same reasons you did (as well as a NP231 in case the NP242 doesn't work out) which is how I landed on your video. You quickly helped me realize that I'll still need a couple parts from the junkyard to do the NP242 swap. Thank you so much for the info about the manual transmission compatibility and the wiring, seriously, the sharing of information like this saves folks so much time, thank you.
Well hey it's awesome this intel also applies to the KJ! Very cool you found a manual one!
However, there is some additional information that I didn't know when I made this 242 Swap video. I have it documented at 13:27 in this video: ua-cam.com/video/h138NSGFI7o/v-deo.html skip to 13:27
You may need to install a longer input shaft on the NP242 before mating it to an NV3550. On the XJ at least, they only had medium length input shafts - but my Jeep knowledge ends in 2001. I have no idea what input shafts the KJ used. It may require a bit more digging.
Also, the dashboard lights are probably on a different circuit and might work differently in the KJ. But the swap should be possible.
If I remember correctly I believe it was 96 that was the wiring hell year, haven't ever heard that about the 97, from everything I know its compatible with 97-01
Fantastic video and great narration!
I got so fed up with that gas tank skid plate on my xj I just sent it with 3/4 bolts. I hear your pain but it's just another day in the life
Like all your vids… great job and entertaining!
Thank you so much for this.
Awesome video!! So if I do exactly what u did in your video i shouldn’t have to run an extra wire from the connector into the engine bay ?
If you have a 2000+, yes. If you have any other year, you'll need to run wire to the transmission harness connector in the engine bay
I wouldn't really consider swapping out a 231 for a 242 an upgrade. It really depends on what you're planning on doing with your XJ/ZJ. I swapped out the 249 for a 242 in my 96 ZJ. The reason I did it is, it was cheaper to buy a good used 242, and put a heavy duty chain and sprockets in it. Than it was to just replace the fluid coupler in the 249.I did all the work myself,except shortening the driveshaft. Yes,I had to shorten the driveshaft. I installed a 98 XJ 242 and it has an external slip yoke. The 96 249 had an internal slip yoke on the output shaft. I had to get the drive shaft shortened by about 3 - 4 inches.
Swapping the 242 in place of a 231 adds full time 4WD mode, if you live in snow country you'd appreciate the full time 4WD mode.
just finished the swap and i am now getting vibs at 30-40 mph, rewatched the video to find that the same drive shaft can be used, my first thought was the driveshaft but now i am not sure
So I'm assuming you put a different driveshaft in alongside your transfer case, and had vibrations at 30-40mph, and then you put in your original driveshaft, and have the same problems?
If the problem only started happening immediately after changing the transfer case and nothing else, then by process of elimination I would bet there might be something wrong with the transfer case.
Where did you get this transfer case from? what vehicle did it come from? How many miles are on it? Did you reuse your front driveshaft? Are you on a lift?
I don't know if I'll be able to help
@@WAEMIDIV same everything, stock rear shaft, got it fairly cheap from a 98 zj, went into an 01' no lift... was hoping that maybe the 242 is slightly longer and causing driveshaft issues, but process of elimination makes sense if both boxes are truly the same length... thanks for the quick response!
@@israelmarquez1515 The 242 is *slightly* longer than then 231 but it's such a subtle difference the driveshafts are interchangeable.
@@WAEMIDIV took the rear driveshaft off, drove around in 4hi at 30 and had no issues, rebuilt the driveshaft and getting same vibrations again, its only at 30-35 mph so i drove it to work anyways, im guessing a bad box like suggested...was reading about a "hub synchronizer" so im going to look into that and read some forums....going to throw the 231 back in until i can rebuild the 242 but if its a bent shaft i need another box.
So how did it end?
Thanks!
Fucking awesome!! Thanks for the quick response.
I’m confused, my 98ZJ has the 231 T-case and it is AWD. I am swapping in a 242 from junkyard that shows to be a 4WD. Completely opposite of your saying???
@@80camaroguy10 the NP231 is not AWD. The NP242 is, but it has both capabilities
I watched this video at 14:42 🤘
Illuminati Confirmed, you have to get a 242 transfer case now, it has been ᴘʀᴏᴘʜᴇsɪᴇᴅ
@@WAEMIDIV Hermes has spoken.
How many times did you have to edit out "Fuck" in this video??
lol, subaru mode. Are you still running the u-joint front axles, if so do you notice any binding aka scooting in turning in awd? Or, did you change to cv style front axles?
There was never any binding, no. The open differential in the transfer case will absorb any little irregularities like that. But I also didn't often use the AWD and when I did I was never making very sharp turns.
I have a factory installed version. No hopping or binding. If I recall, the power wasn't 50-50 front back, but more like 45-55 and that prevented the hopping.
I had the 242 in my 98 ZJ which had the u-joint front axle shafts, and yes, it had a slight bit of binding action going on when in full time 4WD mode, I don't think the limited slip rear diff helped much either LOL.
So orginally my 99 xj had a np231 in it. Which I thought it was as well because of the bezel plate. When I went to have a sye installed it turned out that it was actually np242 so i couldnt get it installed. Now that I know its a np242 i noticed it wont go into fulltime only part time. What would be the reasoning for that?
That's why you need the shift gate. The NP231 shift gate probably doesn't have enough room for the lever to snap all the way back into full time mode, before it goes sideways and into neutral
@WAEMIDIV that's right you said that. Ooo ok thats what I'm missing. But I'm putting a locker which will cancel it out I guess.
How did you fix the azzy design works shift linkage from locking up when you're in 4lo. With mine the articulating nuts linkage gets parallel with the transfer case side link and I can't get out of 4lo without going under and pushing it out.
I only had this issue with the 242 on a manual transmission, I changed the configuration in such a way that allowed it *just* enough of an angle to be knocked out of 4Lo. I demonstrate this in the Manual Swap Part 3. I never had the issue with an automatic
@@WAEMIDIV I'll watch that now. I have an idea of what I need to do but God damn you respond fast I love that man
10:36 I would have done the same XD
got any hints on swapping an 2003 NP242 from Grand Cherokee (WJ) to a NV3550 TJ. my confusion is the input shaft side. The 231 appears to be long input gear shaft to mate with 5speed?? while the WJ is short and mated with an auto (42RE)??
sorta confused... not finding actual measurements of what long and short is. NP231 pulled off my 5speed has input shaft of about 1 3/8 inches coming out front of it. All things in this situation appear to be 23 spline
The Input shaft length of the transfer case is determined by the transmission it was originally mounted to.
The NV3550 cases all have a long input shaft, and usually the automatic-mounted cases will have a medium (AW4) or short (42RE) input shaft.
The NP242 was never available with a manual transmission, so you will never find a long input shaft NP242. You will have to swap the input shaft yourself to make it work
@@WAEMIDIV what have read but not found verification yet is the long shaft is same inside both NP231 and 242... if that is the case then dont have to search for a long 242 shaft.. just pull the one from my 231.
Other wonder is... short shaft of 242... while not the best thing to mate with 3550... it still works.... from what read (but not verified)
@coachgeo Yes the 231 uses the same type of input shaft, so you can put that in your 242
I would not use a short input shaft with an NV3550. It does still connect, but you'll only have like 0.6" of spline engagement, so if you stomp on the gas hard enough you could shear the splines right off
Have you gone through with the swap I’m looking to do the same swap in my tj and was wondering if it worked
@@redryder7504 not yet... I snafued and ordered wrong replacement input. Got another one but just getting MB_TJ running is more important (was in middle of engine swap under a tarp and winter hit before could finish.) Will be end of june probably. (am retiring then jumping on it)
I had this done recently, but I still lack the dash lights. The connector in the NP242 is defect (21:15) Where can I find one?
I got mine from RockAuto, make sure you get the NP242 sensor; it is different than the NP231
www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/jeep,1999,cherokee,4.0l+l6,1431776,electrical-switch+&+relay,transfer+case+switch,13823
I followed your link but it does not take me to the plug. I need the plug that you plug into the switch. Where do you find that?
Does your Jeep have locking differentials?
nope, entirely stock vehicle
@@WAEMIDIV thanks!
What is the top speed for 4wd High? I hear that 4wd Low is 20mph.
I forget exactly but there's not really a top speed for 4wd Hi, the limit at which you can switch the selector is at 50mph though.
If you need 4wd at any speed higher than 50mph though you should probably slow down
@@WAEMIDIV
thanks!
Only had the (96) jeep for six or so months.
Started to snow, so.. trying to sort out 4wd operations.
Thought you had to go into neutral, at a speed under three mph to switch from 2wd to 4wd??
Not sure about switching out of 4wd.
I got a find an operators manual (the repair manual doesn't say anything about it).
@@Jerry-vz4ix you're thinking of 4Lo
4Hi can be toggled at any speed below 50mph, and switch back to 2wd at any speed.
4Lo is to be engaged/ disengaged ONLY when the transmission is in neutral, and you're not moving/ moving very slow (less than 3mph)
You should find a long parking lot and try 4Lo, just remember to only drive in a straight line because Part Time can't be used on dry pavement unless you go straight.
@@WAEMIDIV
Thank you for clearing that up.
I Really appreciate it.
been thinking about making a video explaining it all, but I got so many other things to work on
can i ask why you would go from the stronger np 231 to the np242 which is a weaker transfer case?
2:14 As I stated in the video, I never do any extreme offloading, and I live in a miserable snowy environment where winter lasts half the year. Not everything is about sheer strength.
The 231 and 242 are the same strength....the 242 is a 231 with an added open center differential for full time 4WD mode....
How does the gauge cluster look when you don’t do the wiring? Do the part time lights still work?
Because the connector on the switch itself is different, without splicing the new connector onto the old harness will mean neither "part time" nor "full time" will work.
I figured if I wanted the Part Time light to work, I'd need to splice on the connector, and at that point may as well run a new wire for Full Time
but you don't need the dashboard lights at all, they don't do anything aside from tell you you're in 4wd.
@@WAEMIDIV so what kind of pigtail would I need if I have a 2000 XJ and putting in a 1999 NP242
@@gersonruiz1714 You need the '99 pigtail wired onto your '00 harness, exactly what I did in the video. I used a '99 on an '01, which is exactly the same process
@@WAEMIDIV I've been looking everywhere for the 4WD indicator pigtail.. can't find anything online. any suggestions without going to a pick and pull?
@@gersonruiz1714 I got mine from a parted-out 1999, so that's basically a pick-n-pull lol. I have no idea where to find NP242 indicator switch connectors, but RockAuto has them for the NP231: www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/jeep,2001,cherokee,4.0l+l6,1373666,electrical-connector,4wd+indicator+light+switch+connector,621
you may find some luck on this forum I found but don't have time to read through: www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1160290
that will teach it some stuff just doesnt want to cooperate just shouldnt be in the show
What’s the total cost?
Well that depends where you get your stuff from. I got a used transfer case with 230,000 miles on it for $110, and the azzy linkage was about $80, so that's about $200 for me, not including tools or other small tidbits here and there.
If you buy a brand new or remanufacuted case it'll be somewhere in the thousands I would guess
thanks. ❤