My main grief with the video is that you're misrepresenting the products a little; What the rokinon is missing, and the sony has, is the gyro data collection and transmission - Neither of these lenses have internal stabilization. Internal lens stabilization is really only common on high end sports lenses with longer focal lengths. But maybe you're just doing something right, youtuber wise, since your short got me so triggered that I watched a bunch of your videos and left lengthy comments :D Keep doing what you're doing, don't mind us "haters".
Thank you so much. You’re the man and thank you for your comment. You honestly did help give me some information and I like your opinion. I made the shorts to trigger people LOL 😂. Thank you 🙏
The 11m sony f1.8 doesn't have active stabilization either -- You probably should consider having a gimbal and having it calibrated and weighed-in properly, then stop using the stabilization in post (or keep it extremely low crop, like, 2%) You're also comparing two extremely different price-range products (the rokinon is less than half the price of the sony) , not to mention the sony has a 3mm(37.5%) longer focal length compared to the rokinon. Also, the camera body you're using is a consumer product without any in body stabilization to begin with. It's the body you should consider upgrading if you want to do sports shots... really, forget the lens until you throw that body in the trash -- In my opinion, it's a low end hobby camera, designed to entrap you into the sony e-mount ecosystem; As soon as you realize you're into this stuff, you'll want to upgrade. If you were to put the rokinon on a better body, like a Sony IILCE-7M2B for example, which is still not a great choice, but much better suited for sports photography because of the IBIS, you would get more out of the lens.
ALSO, for your talking head portion of the videos, you should consider getting a 30mm and setting your nikon proportionally further away if you want to keep the "bust shot" -- with the cropped sensor, this will make the field of view closer to the human eye focal length (on full frame it would be a 50mm) and make your face much less warped
The Sony ZVE10 does have active stabilization which I can turn on and off. However I like to use Sony Catalyst Browse to stabilize my footage. But for Catalyst Browse you need Gyro Scope information to use Catalyst. If no information in the footage then you can’t use Catalyst. I can’t use a gimbal for filming skateboarding because I don’t get enough stability on my board with the extra weight creating imbalance. The easiest way to understand is to get on a board and try it yourself. If you do film something please send a link. Thanks 🙏
@@Sk84Life Agh, that is a shame, then I think it is already as good as you can make it with the room; You never want to be closer than a bust shot for talking head, it's just weird.
@@Sk84Life The Sony ZVE10 has "electronic" or "digital" stabilization, which will basically crop in and attempt to stabilize the footage in real-time based on the sensor (or sensor+gyro) data. It works much like the Catalyst Browse stabilization, just does a poorer job because it uses a worse computer and does it faster. Camera bodies with IBIS have actual swivels and little rail-joints that will move the sensor to compensate for the micro-shakes. It still works best with gyro data from the lens, obviously, but it can do a lot of work without it too.
@@Sk84Life You lost me there (I can't help) as my mother tongue is French and I don't have much filming experience. However I have 30+ years of artistic and professional photography experience and I exceptionally accept my peremptoriness now and here definitally over yours. Your "carless influencing" about having to get rid of lenses when they dont have "this contact pin" is paltering (!). At least educate the best you can yourself before others when such oportunities arise. Then, nothe better then communicate, exchange, indeed. BTW; You also loose other advantages with 'missing communication' between lens and camera. But I have many lenses that are worth a lot of money but keep being totally exploitable and kept because in my case no other lens can do better and I like using them and have produced loved photos.
My main grief with the video is that you're misrepresenting the products a little; What the rokinon is missing, and the sony has, is the gyro data collection and transmission - Neither of these lenses have internal stabilization. Internal lens stabilization is really only common on high end sports lenses with longer focal lengths.
But maybe you're just doing something right, youtuber wise, since your short got me so triggered that I watched a bunch of your videos and left lengthy comments :D
Keep doing what you're doing, don't mind us "haters".
Thank you so much. You’re the man and thank you for your comment. You honestly did help give me some information and I like your opinion. I made the shorts to trigger people LOL 😂. Thank you 🙏
The 11m sony f1.8 doesn't have active stabilization either -- You probably should consider having a gimbal and having it calibrated and weighed-in properly, then stop using the stabilization in post (or keep it extremely low crop, like, 2%)
You're also comparing two extremely different price-range products (the rokinon is less than half the price of the sony) , not to mention the sony has a 3mm(37.5%) longer focal length compared to the rokinon.
Also, the camera body you're using is a consumer product without any in body stabilization to begin with. It's the body you should consider upgrading if you want to do sports shots... really, forget the lens until you throw that body in the trash -- In my opinion, it's a low end hobby camera, designed to entrap you into the sony e-mount ecosystem; As soon as you realize you're into this stuff, you'll want to upgrade.
If you were to put the rokinon on a better body, like a Sony IILCE-7M2B for example, which is still not a great choice, but much better suited for sports photography because of the IBIS, you would get more out of the lens.
ALSO, for your talking head portion of the videos, you should consider getting a 30mm and setting your nikon proportionally further away if you want to keep the "bust shot" -- with the cropped sensor, this will make the field of view closer to the human eye focal length (on full frame it would be a 50mm) and make your face much less warped
@@obi234 I don’t have enough space in my room to change my lens to a further distance my camera
The Sony ZVE10 does have active stabilization which I can turn on and off. However I like to use Sony Catalyst Browse to stabilize my footage. But for Catalyst Browse you need Gyro Scope information to use Catalyst. If no information in the footage then you can’t use Catalyst. I can’t use a gimbal for filming skateboarding because I don’t get enough stability on my board with the extra weight creating imbalance. The easiest way to understand is to get on a board and try it yourself. If you do film something please send a link. Thanks 🙏
@@Sk84Life Agh, that is a shame, then I think it is already as good as you can make it with the room; You never want to be closer than a bust shot for talking head, it's just weird.
@@Sk84Life The Sony ZVE10 has "electronic" or "digital" stabilization, which will basically crop in and attempt to stabilize the footage in real-time based on the sensor (or sensor+gyro) data. It works much like the Catalyst Browse stabilization, just does a poorer job because it uses a worse computer and does it faster.
Camera bodies with IBIS have actual swivels and little rail-joints that will move the sensor to compensate for the micro-shakes. It still works best with gyro data from the lens, obviously, but it can do a lot of work without it too.
???
..and, your camera does not allow to set IBIS manually to 8mm ?
I can turn off stability however there is no Gyro stability in the footage for Sony catalyst browse
@@Sk84Life You lost me there (I can't help) as my mother tongue is French and I don't have much filming experience.
However I have 30+ years of artistic and professional photography experience and I exceptionally accept my peremptoriness now and here definitally over yours. Your "carless influencing" about having to get rid of lenses when they dont have "this contact pin" is paltering (!).
At least educate the best you can yourself before others when such oportunities arise. Then, nothe better then communicate, exchange, indeed.
BTW; You also loose other advantages with 'missing communication' between lens and camera. But I have many lenses that are worth a lot of money but keep being totally exploitable and kept because in my case no other lens can do better and I like using them and have produced loved photos.