I have two of these batteries and have been putting forth great effort to stop myself from taking one apart. Thank you. My remote control will continue to function because of you.
Are they the same brand? I was wondering how these would go in low drain devices, whether their quiescent current would mean they'd essentially self-discharge under low loads. Then again a remote control is a different device to the indoor - outdoor temperature display that I have (which needs a full 1.5v per cell) in that my device is a constant low drain but a remote is occasional low drain. Hmmm... I have a few of those Znter 9v Li-ion cells and they have high quiescent current so are useless for things like smoke alarms, they go flat within a month or so in a smoke alarm and in 3 months in the drawer. That's why I'd like to know more about these before I spend money that I can't afford to 'lose' as Eneloops do well in most other devices I have. Cheers.
CEO: Did he manage to get through the...am...that am...secret sauce you cover the electricy things in??? Engineers: (under their breath) Oh FFS, electricy things... Lead engineer: no he had no luck getting through the "secret sauce"...he has no idea how we work our magic... CEO: That's a good thing... right??? Lead engineer: yes, that's a GOOD thing!!! All: JUGEE, JUGEE, JUGEE, JUGEE,....
Yeah I agree with someone else commenting on here, from our perspective, we do enjoy your talking, and your knowledge that you provide. Don't hesitate to show more, or have these 30 minute videos. Clive as always, you do wonderful work, keep it up.
As someone who has been into electronics since vacuum tube days (valves on the other side of the pond) I'm amazed how complex electronics can be squeezed into tiny spaces.
Actually, both terms are quite common here in the U.S.... Although it depends on who you're talking to. If you're talking to a Hi-Fi buff, he has "Tube Amps". If you're taking to an experienced guitarist, he has a "Valve Amplifier". Every once in a while, while I'm talking to a Hi-Fi guy I'll refer to them as valves and vice versa with a musician, just to see if I can get them to swap terms, but I've never been successful.. 🤷🏻😁
Finally, a rechargeable AA cell that looks actually worth buying. For $30 you get four well made cells and a charger that's smart enough to know good cell from bad as well as right cell from wrong. I remember when it cost about $8 to buy four nicad cells and a crappy charger that had little more than a few resistors inside. Overheated batteries were common and you were lucky to get more than a few charges despite the "up to 500 charges" promised on the package. Thanks for the teardown, Clive.
You often find that higher-current power management ICs in QFN or DFN packages will have their high-current pins (such as the pins to the inductor) doubled- or tripled-up. That might go some way to explaining the oddly-high pin count of this chip.
I think I know ,Butte, does the explosives pie dish have a lid ? ..a hevey one with a latch and a vent pointed twords the wall..some water some sand...
I've seen a guy use a pipe cutter to open these. That is, the handheld variety looks like a C and has a tightening wheel and 2 wheel cutters. Seems like a clean way to do it.
Thanks for all the hard work trying to get into this without destroying it. Looks like a great bit of kit if you need the full 1.5 votes. Might have to go look at the short version now.
Short version to see if he blows up a lipo or anything. Once your hopes are dashed, watch the long one. Or just admit you have no idea what he's talking about when he goes over the circuit diagrams.
Clive thx for the teardown. That was great and you didn't even cause an explosion. The best part is they don't leak. If anything their failure modes are they explode or quit. On another note thx for the NiMH update that they have majorly improved the self discharge rate. I'm betting these jewels also have a slow self discharge rate even with all that sophisticated converter electronics baked in. You'll have to put a scope between the batteries and the charger to see if they have a conversation. I'm bettin they do. Again, thx clive for the great teardown and no explosion.
Agree. Partly for the excitement, but also it's educational... As the bomb disposal guy said in an episode of The Bill from about 1998.... "We video it so if it goes wrong, the rest of the team know what not to do next time".
I got quite excited by the Kentli batteries when I first saw them because of the genius end-cap design, similar to these Jugee ones. A small tip that provides 1.5V with an insulated barrier stepping down to the charging ring for the lithium charger to access. I was thinking they'd provide a longer runtime on my headlamps but I'd been sucked in by their marketing. They advertise as 3000 mWh - which is a better way to advertise battery capacity if everyone did it that way. But they don't, they use mAh and I was confused into thinking I'd get 50% more runtime than my 2000mAh eneloops. Of course they are really only about the same so I gather they're betting on people being confused as I was. Not much point spending mega dollars on them, unless you really do have a device very finicky about the voltage. I decided to just stick with my eneloops.
12:29 And hearing that, the JUGEE Design Engineer's start Madly Cackling in Blissful Glee that they have Successfully Designed a Clive-Resistant Device... Now that they know they can Design a Clive-Resistant Device, they turn their sights on the Holy Grail of Engineering...Designing The Clive-PROOF Device... Engineer's across the world Bow in Awe towards the JUGEE Miracle Workers and quickly Donate Copious Quantities of various Caffeinated Beverages to the JUGEE Engineers to aid their efforts...
@@MattOGormanSmith A Bigger Clive would actually help the Engineers... Bigger hands would make it harder to take things apart, design new things and otherwise investigate how well (or Shittily) any given item is designed/built...
I wondered if immersing the resin in the Jugee into an index of refraction matching fluid might make it “disappear”? Kind of like how mixtures of high index of refraction fluids can make diamond invisible when immersed? Although it looks like it has a glass powder added. 🎉luckily you got the pieces separated🎉
Brilliant! Now the question: can I solder one of these suckers into my electric toothbrush? I totally hate the fluctuation in speed I get from my e-brush, being somewhere between "worse than manual" shortly before the low battery warning and "brush go BRRRRRRRRRRR" when fresh off the charger. And I always wondered how to pop in a Li-cell or other voltage stabilized circuit. This might be it.
As an alternative you can use Ni-Zn rechargeable batteries, they provide 1.6v and are made for high drain circuits such as cameras and flashlights. I just started using them and I like them so far as a replacement to the alkaline batteries where the Ni-Mh voltage doesn't work.
I have several of these a few that are over a year old. I have been very pleased by them and have started phasing out my NiMh batteries with them. I have only had 1 go bad out of about 30.
When you first uploaded this video I went to Amazon and put a 4-pack unit ($29.88USD) in my cart but didn't complete the purchase as I had other things to get. By the next day the price had jumped to $37.88USD...it pissed me off that they would jack up the price so much overnight...I removed the 4-pack and bought 2 2-packs ($17.88).
I bought something similar a few years ago from Kentli. Those have another system for charging, the charging contact is actually right next to the normal positive battery terminal nub. The charger has specially shaped contacts that poke into this slot. One can directly measure the lithium cell voltage through this third contact as well. I guess these Jugee batteries are slightly more advanced and perhaps they also have a higher cell-to-circuitry size ratio, but the Kentlis still do a fine job in a thermal camera.
Re Surface Mount Component Ids. I did find the part numbers of the ICs in the charger. Search for 'SMD Marking codes' + D19D gives Ricoh RP506x series IC: 2A PWM/VFM Step-down DC/DC Converter with Synchronous Rectifier. The other IC 7033 gives Holtek HT70XXA-1 TinyPower TM Voltage Detector. Hope this helps.
@@Shaun.Stephens The same principle holds for a buck converter at no load. It's usually done by pulse skipping; only providing pulses once the output voltage falls. It just sits idle at no load, until the leakage of the output capacitor reduces the voltage far enough.
Thank you Clive, went a changed my iPhone battery the other day... messed up with the sticky pull tabs and bent the battery(must have internal shorted) a few degrees and got a weird smell and quickly grabbed a wooden spoon and just levered it out before it let the smoke out.
Similar thoughts are running through my head... I was going to buy some more znter AA cells for our church radio mics but due to Coronavirus, I've been avoiding unnecessary purchases of Chinese made stuff, so I haven't yet. These seem like a better idea since they have the low voltage warning thing, which the znter ones don't.
Well you may have the package correct but this chip is more than a mere buck regulator. It is offers a reverse charge path with most probably current limiting and some battery protection. And hopefully also some way of output voltage crowbar. Just imagine the Buck chip shorting out on the switcher path and delivering the full 3-4V lithium battery voltage to the output. And btw; Fujian Nanping Nanfu Battery Co. Ltd presented a cell called NF-LB1 under the Brand Tenavolts in January 2019 which was using this approach already. And they are said to have worked 4 Years on the design and hold 6 Patents on this. On quick search I found www.freepatentsonline.com/20170338521.pdf So I would not wonder if this chip is top secret. But unless it is the same mfc as in 2019, these Jugee may mark the start of a series of knockoffs/ copies of the original design.
yodaco ocadoy £20 for 4 batteries isn’t cheap in my book and these are very well made according to Clive. I found some cheaper ones on Ali (link in my other comment). Not sure about the quality.
@@Conservator. if its lithium I would go for the "brand name". people in china tend to put very silly ratings on their batteries and these have almost 2500mah tested and I dont think you will get much higher than that in the same formfactor
@@Conservator. but the charger is included and they cost around £20, so its not that much money for what they are ,high quality 18650s are around £7 each ! which is like 9 dollars
girlsdrinkfeck They are much smaller than 18650s. If you have to pay £7 for 18650s than I understand your point. NKON.nl sell genuine Samsung, Panasonic, Sony, Sanyo, etc batteries at much lower (€2-€3) prices. I’ve bought a few times from them. I’m not affiliated.
On rewatching, I realize the physical assembly was probably the same process as making a protected 18650. Battery material completely in can, then a protection PCB under the nub. No separately purchased cell stuffed into a can by a different factory.
Have you ever thought about picking up the spudgers that come with handles like dentist tools? I have an iFixit set but I'm sure a generic would be just a good. That extra leverage really helps with those big clips on some boxy plastic things.
Yeah, I've waited for you to take one of these apart. Thank you for the good work. These appear to be actually useful. Now if only someone made ones that put out stable 1.35V to simulate the mercury-zinc batteries in the exposure meters in old cameras...
I found a linear regulator that would be able to make 1.35V from a 1.5V alkaline watch battery, while looking for options for my Dad's old Olympus camera. Great, I thought, and ordered some up. Turns out there had been something of a miscalculation of scale, they are BGAs with 9 pads in a square 1mm to a side. In the end we just 3D printed an adaptor that carries an alkaline cell and a schottky diode, and he has had acceptable results with it.
These use pulse width modulation and the bare minimum filtering(for size constraints), so the output is going to get noisy under even the lightest of loads. That is fine in most cases, but in some cases, batteries are used precisely because of their pristine dc voltage and pulse width modulated voltage will not cut it.
I love watching the short version as a "coming attraction" teaser during a work break. Now it's after work and I have my ginger beer and bear-nip at hand to enjoy the full show.
Reminds me of the inverter style led automotive bulbs, some of them have the circuitry hidden in the cap or plug and are very small for a bulb of that quality
I wonder if they would vent in a controlled manner if something went wrong or just explode, possibly with some force given the sturdy construction... bit risky..
I wonder if there's some sort of brief negotiation between the chip inside the battery and the chip assigned to each input? Do you think that's something you could capture with a scope?
I got the AAA version of these and they're surprisingly not noisy when powering the Zoom F1 I use in place of my camcorder's internal mic. I dunno, I remember seeing that video of yours on that 9V lithium ion pack and I kind of expected these to be similarly noisy.
Shouldn’t LiIon have a higher charge density than NiMH? With that 2000mAh at 1.5V it seems to be about the same or lower than the typical high end NiMH cells of around 2700mAh at 1.2V.
Interesting product. These will definitely hold more juice than the ones that have a micro USB charge input at the side. Almost all of its internal space is filled up with battery material. I just wonder how well they do at low-power applications like wireless temperature sending units, remote controls, and so on. Me, I'm done with the self-discharge and the lower output voltage of NiMH, so I switched to LiFePO4: 3.2V at only one cell. The AA LiFePO4 is 1000mAh, the AAA-version is 500mAh.
You could use the cutter edges of the pliers to pinch the top of the battery just under the top to squeeze it and deform the shell enough to get a grip on it with the tip of the pliers. That's how I'd do it. Your mileage may vary.
Found a review video for Jugee batteries from 2 years ago. He didn't get anything like the capacity results you saw and certainly didn't have the constant voltage at higher discharge rates, dropping to 1V at 1.5A. Presumably the technology has advanced in that time.
Well Clive only tested up to 1A , Clive's circuit explanation mentions 1V as the output voltage used to alert the load's low battery indicator before complete switch off, so the 1.5A overload might have set this off.
I wonder what current do the electronics draw. That's my main trouble with these Li-ion 1,5V batteries. I have a micro usb powered one, but it gets depleted too fast for the capacity it has.
Many brands out now 12/2022 with:: There are four protections for this AA battery, with intelligent control of the entire charging process, built-in protection device to prevent Overcharge, Overvoltage, Overcurrent, Over discharge, the charger has reverse charge protection . These are using a 5v power supply directly to the battery.
Thanks for finding these Clive, they would be ideal for a number of things around the house, but I've only been able to find supplies from US or Singapore sources. With the high shipping cost, and the Parcel Farce handling fee on top of the GST, I'd be paying more to get them here than the product cost. There are some similar units KENTLI / Hixon but difficult to see if they are of the same quality and they will still attract GST and Parcel Farce charges even though free postage. We are really penalised in the UK by the very low (£15) self import limit for GST.
There is a comment on the Patreon page that this type (but not the JUGEE ones) are available from Amazon UK. I checked and they are: www.amazon.co.uk/YGJ-Rechargeable-lithium-battery-batteries/dp/B07YZCFF1G/ www.amazon.co.uk/EBL-AA-Rechargeable-Batteries-Capacity-Black/dp/B0828GN5RL/
@@Stuart-AJC Must have missed the comment on Patreon . Thanks for those pointers I'd searched Amazon, as well as fleaBay, but they did not turn up, just shows that Amazon search is not perfect!
Any chance of a test to see what the maximum current output is? Mostly wondering what the peak it can handle for say, (small) motor starting. Curious about the same for the Znter too if you still have one intact.
I agree with Astorath The Grim, why would I want to watch a short version and miss out on technical details? No point in watching a "half a job" vid. So anyhoo, my understanding is then, these cells are pretty much good for anything except very high drain applications (old school camera flash or maybe RC toys or power tools)? How long do they hold a charge, are they (for example) suitable for clocks? Looks like a really good product, thanks for the review :)
Dodge Coronet Ok Boomer got ruined by shitheads, maybe, but it was initially great. Short, simple snub of an older person who refuses to listen to someone younger and blames everything on them whilst refusing to learn. Sadly, most people using it don’t understand the point of it and say it when it doesn’t even make any sense.
Bummer! 😕 Explosion, Flames & Smoke!⚡🔥⚡🔥⚡🔥⚡🔥⚡🔥 & It Wasnt Filmed... 🥺😭 How Disappointing... 😒 None The Less A Very Interesting Rechargeable Battery Video... 🤔😏 Good Job BIG CLIVE! 😉👍 Blessings: James... 🕊🌈
I wonder how the EBL's 1.5v rechargables compare to JUGEE's. My EBLs don't seem to drop their voltage down before the battery dies, leading to my controllers not giving me any low battery warning.
Clive, can these batteries be put in series? If so would the chip have to measure the incoming voltage on the negative pole and output not 1.5v but 1.5v above that input voltage? Is the lithium cell negative permanently connected to the battery negative or does the chip control the negative? Can you put these batteries in series with regular 1.2 - 1.5v batteries? Would they just output 1.5v above incoming voltage or would they input the 1v above to indicate that they aren't happy when they see that the incoming voltage is not a multiple of 1.5v? Is there a limit to the number of batteries that can be in series. In plain chemical batteries I would assume you can just put them in series until something fails. Would these have a maximum voltage in which they would cut off? (I assume all those components have a maximum rating) I know with 12v lithium batteries some models can't be put in series (depending on BMS etc.) so I assume if these can be put in series that chip is doing more than your current diagram shows, and maybe that explains the additional pins and components as well. Would love to see a follow up video where you explain more about how these batteries act in series. Maybe also a test in parallel to see how they behave then. Great video but I feel it's left a bit incomplete.
Finally got around to buying these batteries. There were some of a different brand for sale rated at 3500mAh £24.99) but only described as Lithium, not LiPo. Not being sure of the difference between the chemistries I gave those a miss for the time being and went for the Jugees
I've been waiting for this for so long. I bought a bunch of different brands of the li-ion AA. But couldn't bring myself to tear apart my own set as I do use them heavily.
I wonder if they are dimentionally identical to standard AA alkalines? Some rechargeables have a diameter that is minutely larger than standard alkaline AA's.
Hi Clive, I don't remember (getting old) seeing the oscilloscope in any videos... Can you show the input and output current waveforms when testing power devices? A lot of inexpensive scopes have USB ports and capture features. Cheers, Tim
Varta Professional AA Lithium one's with 2900mah as good with keeping 1.5V as well? I'm asking because they are a lot cheaper but I personally think of Varta as a decent battery manufacturer
Very interesting "active" battery with built in switching Voltage Regulator that puts out a constant voltage, that is to overcome the shortcomings of the battery chemistry. The question is how much power the voltage regulator circuit itself consumes, how hot the VR gets, and peak current limitations of the VR circuit. May not be a good fit for high current applications like power tools, etc.
Hon, we love you. Your willingness to do dumb shit for our entertainment, is commendable. That you also know all the electric goodness behind it? Much love. Sending love to you from Baltimore!
oo, i already know where i'd like a 4 pack of rechargable "high voltage" batteries. RC car remotes, now i will have to find me some, thanks for the videoi!
Yeah. Most controllers have a voltage regulator immediately after the battery contacts, and will happily take either a 1S or 2S lipo depending on the design. Be careful though - the battery voltage will likely also feed into a ADC pin on the microcontroller for voltage detection. Some feed directly into this pin, so you may need also to check the data sheet for max input on that pin (it's probably less than the 8.4v of a fully charged 2S pack). Check on forums and such because fairly good chance people have discussed it before unless you use very unusual controllers.
I've found slow fade rgb leds don't flash on mains power without a capacitor, do you think that if they made a white led that was just www, and switching between the three whites, they would eliminate the need for smoothing?
Idk if it’s a twang when you sproing it with a tool or the sound internally when it shorts, but it makes a buzz sound every time you make a failed attempt
I have two of these batteries and have been putting forth great effort to stop myself from taking one apart. Thank you. My remote control will continue to function because of you.
Are they the same brand? I was wondering how these would go in low drain devices, whether their quiescent current would mean they'd essentially self-discharge under low loads. Then again a remote control is a different device to the indoor - outdoor temperature display that I have (which needs a full 1.5v per cell) in that my device is a constant low drain but a remote is occasional low drain. Hmmm...
I have a few of those Znter 9v Li-ion cells and they have high quiescent current so are useless for things like smoke alarms, they go flat within a month or so in a smoke alarm and in 3 months in the drawer. That's why I'd like to know more about these before I spend money that I can't afford to 'lose' as Eneloops do well in most other devices I have. Cheers.
@@Shaun.Stephens That's probably due to the specific circuitry used, and other brands may be better at handling that
Remote control? Not for a TV surely? Those things work best with cheap primaries. :)
Thank god there is also a full version. Love the rambling, that's why i'm here.
I ALWAYS watch the long version first, when there is a choice.
@ No one likes a short one.
@@Dime_Bar I actually came here after watching the shorter version, so I can enjoy even more than if I watched only one of them. ;D
"Deluxe version"
Come for the entertainment stay for Clive's ramblings
Jugee: Well fellow employees, we had a Big Clive tear down video, we sure do make a hell of a good product. :-)
CEO: Did he manage to get through the...am...that am...secret sauce you cover the electricy things in???
Engineers: (under their breath) Oh FFS, electricy things...
Lead engineer: no he had no luck getting through the "secret sauce"...he has no idea how we work our magic...
CEO: That's a good thing... right???
Lead engineer: yes, that's a GOOD thing!!!
All: JUGEE, JUGEE, JUGEE, JUGEE,....
Wait until you see the LPL video "xyz lock defeated by inserting a battery".
Big Clive made the video, time to produce the shitty version now
they need to have access to youtube first.
"Why didn't we do it that way??"
Yeah I agree with someone else commenting on here, from our perspective, we do enjoy your talking, and your knowledge that you provide. Don't hesitate to show more, or have these 30 minute videos. Clive as always, you do wonderful work, keep it up.
Who?
@TheHulkamaniaBrother2.0 you're asking two years later? Hell if know. Lmao
The best of both worlds, ideal output voltage and high capacity.
Very smart.
As someone who has been into electronics since vacuum tube days (valves on the other side of the pond) I'm amazed how complex electronics can be squeezed into tiny spaces.
Actually, both terms are quite common here in the U.S....
Although it depends on who you're talking to. If you're talking to a Hi-Fi buff, he has "Tube Amps". If you're taking to an experienced guitarist, he has a "Valve Amplifier".
Every once in a while, while I'm talking to a Hi-Fi guy I'll refer to them as valves and vice versa with a musician, just to see if I can get them to swap terms, but I've never been successful.. 🤷🏻😁
Finally, a rechargeable AA cell that looks actually worth buying. For $30 you get four well made cells and a charger that's smart enough to know good cell from bad as well as right cell from wrong. I remember when it cost about $8 to buy four nicad cells and a crappy charger that had little more than a few resistors inside. Overheated batteries were common and you were lucky to get more than a few charges despite the "up to 500 charges" promised on the package. Thanks for the teardown, Clive.
You often find that higher-current power management ICs in QFN or DFN packages will have their high-current pins (such as the pins to the inductor) doubled- or tripled-up.
That might go some way to explaining the oddly-high pin count of this chip.
Oh, yeah!
You have bested me sir, bravo, bravo indeed....
I was just about to say the same thing...
Have seen that done before on a 6 pin MOSFET the source and drain were 2 and 3 pins respectively where as the gate is only 1 pin.
It's the things like "And now on today's episode of things you should not do with lithium batteries" that make me love this channel so much.
You know it’s gonna be a good one when the explosion containment pie-dish comes into the video :D
I think I know ,Butte, does the explosives pie dish have a lid ? ..a hevey one with a latch and a vent pointed twords the wall..some water some sand...
@@garymingy8671 - You're forgetting the potential entertainment value by leaving those things out. lol
I've seen a guy use a pipe cutter to open these. That is, the handheld variety looks like a C and has a tightening wheel and 2 wheel cutters. Seems like a clean way to do it.
I was thinking a suitably adjusted coax stripper might do it, then I saw the effort required with a dremel. Pipe cutter would be the way.
It might work, but they would curve the tube inwards at the cut, and in this instance may also cause shorting problems
I was thinking the same.
@@donbriggs9128 Just do a full discharge first.
@@johndododoe1411 Yes, but into a tissue or at least a sock.
Absolutely love the explosion containment pie-dish. Each episode with this lovely character is an amazing one.
Clive: "It's potentially gonna short out the lithium cell, which you guys want."
Me: You're not wrong
Things to add to the "things I thought I would never see" list: Using a dremel on a lithium battery.
Only Clive can entertain us this much :)
+vuaeco did a teardown of a tenavolt using a dremel as well. NOT QUITE as fun as Clive, though.
Incredible manual dexterity & steady hands...A lathe could not have done it any better..
Thanks for all the hard work trying to get into this without destroying it. Looks like a great bit of kit if you need the full 1.5 votes. Might have to go look at the short version now.
Why would I ever watch the shorter version of a Big Clive video? Seem sus to me.
Well you would watch the longer one first, and after that the sorter one for a quick recap
The short one if like on the back of the book it more of a good quick recap when you got a test coming up
Allo my I suggest a new tool for you to open battres use a pipe cuter the one that you spin a rond the pip to cut it
Short version to see if he blows up a lipo or anything. Once your hopes are dashed, watch the long one. Or just admit you have no idea what he's talking about when he goes over the circuit diagrams.
For sharing with your curious-but-not-THAT-curious friends that don't yet understand schematics or components.
Clive thx for the teardown. That was great and you didn't even cause an explosion. The best part is they don't leak. If anything their failure modes are they explode or quit. On another note thx for the NiMH update that they have majorly improved the self discharge rate.
I'm betting these jewels also have a slow self discharge rate even with all that sophisticated converter electronics baked in. You'll have to put a scope between the batteries and the charger to see if they have a conversation. I'm bettin they do.
Again, thx clive for the great teardown and no explosion.
Yes, we do indeed want to see the whole debacle of disassembling a battery when there's a threat of fire and explosions... :D
Agree. Partly for the excitement, but also it's educational...
As the bomb disposal guy said in an episode of The Bill from about 1998.... "We video it so if it goes wrong, the rest of the team know what not to do next time".
I got quite excited by the Kentli batteries when I first saw them because of the genius end-cap design, similar to these Jugee ones. A small tip that provides 1.5V with an insulated barrier stepping down to the charging ring for the lithium charger to access. I was thinking they'd provide a longer runtime on my headlamps but I'd been sucked in by their marketing. They advertise as 3000 mWh - which is a better way to advertise battery capacity if everyone did it that way. But they don't, they use mAh and I was confused into thinking I'd get 50% more runtime than my 2000mAh eneloops. Of course they are really only about the same so I gather they're betting on people being confused as I was. Not much point spending mega dollars on them, unless you really do have a device very finicky about the voltage. I decided to just stick with my eneloops.
Traditionally I'm not interested in short videos so forgive me for not watching the short version!
And thanks for making this long version!
12:29 And hearing that, the JUGEE Design Engineer's start Madly Cackling in Blissful Glee that they have Successfully Designed a Clive-Resistant Device...
Now that they know they can Design a Clive-Resistant Device, they turn their sights on the Holy Grail of Engineering...Designing The Clive-PROOF Device...
Engineer's across the world Bow in Awe towards the JUGEE Miracle Workers and quickly Donate Copious Quantities of various Caffeinated Beverages to the JUGEE Engineers to aid their efforts...
Do you always randomly capitalize your posts?
Somebody will just invent a bigger Clive.
@@MattOGormanSmith A Bigger Clive would actually help the Engineers...
Bigger hands would make it harder to take things apart, design new things and otherwise investigate how well (or Shittily) any given item is designed/built...
How can i not watch the long version and miss you dremmeling a lithium battery!! Love you clive!
Big Clive gettin' Jugee with it.
I wondered if immersing the resin in the Jugee into an index of refraction matching fluid might make it “disappear”? Kind of like how mixtures of high index of refraction fluids can make diamond invisible when immersed? Although it looks like it has a glass powder added. 🎉luckily you got the pieces separated🎉
Brilliant! Now the question: can I solder one of these suckers into my electric toothbrush? I totally hate the fluctuation in speed I get from my e-brush, being somewhere between "worse than manual" shortly before the low battery warning and "brush go BRRRRRRRRRRR" when fresh off the charger. And I always wondered how to pop in a Li-cell or other voltage stabilized circuit. This might be it.
I picked the longer version just to see Clive destroy the battery.I was not disappointed 👍👍👍👍
I wonder if there is any detectable ripple at high current draw. Some electronics may not appreciate that.
As an alternative you can use Ni-Zn rechargeable batteries, they provide 1.6v and are made for high drain circuits such as cameras and flashlights. I just started using them and I like them so far as a replacement to the alkaline batteries where the Ni-Mh voltage doesn't work.
I was going to mention these, very few people seem to make them, the main brand I have seen is PKCell and they seem very well made.
You know things are getting real when Clive stops worrying about swamping out the camera and leaves the explosion containment dish on screen.
I have several of these a few that are over a year old. I have been very pleased by them and have started phasing out my NiMh batteries with them. I have only had 1 go bad out of about 30.
Amongst many reasons as to why I watch you, questionable teardowns of batteries is certainly up there :)
And the sausage roll malfunctions.
When Clive brings out the explosion containment pie dish you know it’s going to be a good video
When you first uploaded this video I went to Amazon and put a 4-pack unit ($29.88USD) in my cart but didn't complete the purchase as I had other things to get.
By the next day the price had jumped to $37.88USD...it pissed me off that they would jack up the price so much overnight...I removed the 4-pack and bought 2 2-packs ($17.88).
I bought something similar a few years ago from Kentli. Those have another system for charging, the charging contact is actually right next to the normal positive battery terminal nub. The charger has specially shaped contacts that poke into this slot. One can directly measure the lithium cell voltage through this third contact as well. I guess these Jugee batteries are slightly more advanced and perhaps they also have a higher cell-to-circuitry size ratio, but the Kentlis still do a fine job in a thermal camera.
I think I'll grab myself some of these 👍
They do seem pretty impressive. Pity they're so expensive, though its easy to see why.
12:30 How long did it take? For us viewers it was hardly 2 seconds, but for you, Clive? 2 hours?
I really enjoy watching your video’s, Tx!
That's exactly what i've been looking for for my AA-powered appliances. Shame you don't have an affiliate link to that
Disappointed because without my glasses, the thumbnail looks like a big box of Yorkie bars.
you know it's going to be a good Clive video when you have batteries, power tools, and the pie dish!
I see what you did there, the short version is just a teaser/trailer to get everyone here! well played!
Re Surface Mount Component Ids.
I did find the part numbers of the ICs in the charger. Search for 'SMD Marking codes' + D19D gives Ricoh RP506x series IC: 2A PWM/VFM Step-down DC/DC Converter with Synchronous Rectifier.
The other IC 7033 gives Holtek HT70XXA-1 TinyPower TM Voltage Detector.
Hope this helps.
If the dc/dc converter is running all the time to give 1.5V ,how long is the storage life for a fully charged battery ?
Probably pretty good. A good boost converter chip can have quiescent current in the microamps.
It must've been reducing its duty cycle significantly once it has topped the output capacitor.
@@nathanboody1148 This is a buck converter though...
I question the 3000mWh rating. It's likely the battery is only capable of 810mAh _NOT_ 2000mAh.
@@Shaun.Stephens The same principle holds for a buck converter at no load. It's usually done by pulse skipping; only providing pulses once the output voltage falls. It just sits idle at no load, until the leakage of the output capacitor reduces the voltage far enough.
Thank you Clive, went a changed my iPhone battery the other day... messed up with the sticky pull tabs and bent the battery(must have internal shorted) a few degrees and got a weird smell and quickly grabbed a wooden spoon and just levered it out before it let the smoke out.
Dremel looks like the size of a powered toothbrush in Clive's hands.
I was wondering why they would produce this miniature dremel.
I might have to get me a set
Similar thoughts are running through my head... I was going to buy some more znter AA cells for our church radio mics but due to Coronavirus, I've been avoiding unnecessary purchases of Chinese made stuff, so I haven't yet.
These seem like a better idea since they have the low voltage warning thing, which the znter ones don't.
there seem to be quite a number of off-shelf buck-regulators in QFN16 for the purpose, e.g. ISL8023, ISL8024, TPS62130RGTT, these are 3-4 A chips...
Well you may have the package correct but this chip is more than a mere buck regulator. It is offers a reverse charge path with most probably current limiting and some battery protection. And hopefully also some way of output voltage crowbar. Just imagine the Buck chip shorting out on the switcher path and delivering the full 3-4V lithium battery voltage to the output.
And btw; Fujian Nanping Nanfu Battery Co. Ltd presented a cell called NF-LB1 under the Brand Tenavolts in January 2019 which was using this approach already. And they are said to have worked 4 Years on the design and hold 6 Patents on this.
On quick search I found www.freepatentsonline.com/20170338521.pdf
So I would not wonder if this chip is top secret. But unless it is the same mfc as in 2019, these Jugee may mark the start of a series of knockoffs/ copies of the original design.
Thank you, Clive.
Taking apart cells: I have seen someone using a pipe cutter (tool for cutting copper pipe) to cut the ends off a cell
*Edited for swipe type errors
Brilliant product. Now wait for the cheap and dodgy Chinese clones.
Is that not what that is already?
yodaco ocadoy £20 for 4 batteries isn’t cheap in my book and these are very well made according to Clive. I found some cheaper ones on Ali (link in my other comment). Not sure about the quality.
@@Conservator. if its lithium I would go for the "brand name". people in china tend to put very silly ratings on their batteries and these have almost 2500mah tested and I dont think you will get much higher than that in the same formfactor
@@Conservator. but the charger is included and they cost around £20, so its not that much money for what they are ,high quality 18650s are around £7 each ! which is like 9 dollars
girlsdrinkfeck
They are much smaller than 18650s.
If you have to pay £7 for 18650s than I understand your point. NKON.nl sell genuine Samsung, Panasonic, Sony, Sanyo, etc batteries at much lower (€2-€3) prices.
I’ve bought a few times from them. I’m not affiliated.
On rewatching, I realize the physical assembly was probably the same process as making a protected 18650. Battery material completely in can, then a protection PCB under the nub. No separately purchased cell stuffed into a can by a different factory.
Have you ever thought about picking up the spudgers that come with handles like dentist tools? I have an iFixit set but I'm sure a generic would be just a good. That extra leverage really helps with those big clips on some boxy plastic things.
I am guessing you don't have a lathe. It is a few seconds work with a sharp tool in the late to easily cut open the batteries.
Alas. No lathe..... Yet.
Defenitly like the long version better then the short version way more awesome information Clive @BigCliveDotCom
9:30 I'm kind of glad I'm not at Clive's shop right now...
I'm not sure I could resist the Temptation to sneak up behind him and yell BANG!
Watch out..don't bother the bear...! 😂
The temptation is crippling 😂😂
Perhaps the extra pins on the IC are paralleled inputs/outputs to handle the 1A maximum current draw?
Yeah, I've waited for you to take one of these apart. Thank you for the good work. These appear to be actually useful.
Now if only someone made ones that put out stable 1.35V to simulate the mercury-zinc batteries in the exposure meters in old cameras...
I found a linear regulator that would be able to make 1.35V from a 1.5V alkaline watch battery, while looking for options for my Dad's old Olympus camera. Great, I thought, and ordered some up. Turns out there had been something of a miscalculation of scale, they are BGAs with 9 pads in a square 1mm to a side. In the end we just 3D printed an adaptor that carries an alkaline cell and a schottky diode, and he has had acceptable results with it.
These use pulse width modulation and the bare minimum filtering(for size constraints), so the output is going to get noisy under even the lightest of loads. That is fine in most cases, but in some cases, batteries are used precisely because of their pristine dc voltage and pulse width modulated voltage will not cut it.
I love watching the short version as a "coming attraction" teaser during a work break. Now it's after work and I have my ginger beer and bear-nip at hand to enjoy the full show.
This is like a platinum level seal of quality right there ... Going to look for some
This pie dish doesn't appear to have contained many explosions, Did the previous one turn out to not be as explosion resistant as expected?
It's always on standby, but rarely required.
8:00 is the joyous start of two pure minutes of the virtuosic stylings of big clive on the dremel ladies gentlemen and all others
Reminds me of the inverter style led automotive bulbs, some of them have the circuitry hidden in the cap or plug and are very small for a bulb of that quality
I wonder if they would vent in a controlled manner if something went wrong or just explode, possibly with some force given the sturdy construction... bit risky..
I wonder if there's some sort of brief negotiation between the chip inside the battery and the chip assigned to each input? Do you think that's something you could capture with a scope?
I'd be really curious to know the quiescent current of that circuity - what's the shelf life on these like?
I got the AAA version of these and they're surprisingly not noisy when powering the Zoom F1 I use in place of my camcorder's internal mic. I dunno, I remember seeing that video of yours on that 9V lithium ion pack and I kind of expected these to be similarly noisy.
I like the inverted explosion containment dish, where you have to put the things to be protected from on the outside next to the dish!
Shouldn’t LiIon have a higher charge density than NiMH? With that 2000mAh at 1.5V it seems to be about the same or lower than the typical high end NiMH cells of around 2700mAh at 1.2V.
Interesting product. These will definitely hold more juice than the ones that have a micro USB charge input at the side. Almost all of its internal space is filled up with battery material. I just wonder how well they do at low-power applications like wireless temperature sending units, remote controls, and so on.
Me, I'm done with the self-discharge and the lower output voltage of NiMH, so I switched to LiFePO4: 3.2V at only one cell. The AA LiFePO4 is 1000mAh, the AAA-version is 500mAh.
Thankful makes me happy to see everything
In the next episode, Clive uses an angle grinder to get into the D cell version.
The QFN package has a couple advantages including accomodating a larger die size and higher thermal conductivity not to mention being quite flat.
Wonder if it has several lithium coin cells to make up the single double a battery @BigCliveDotCom
You could use the cutter edges of the pliers to pinch the top of the battery just under the top to squeeze it and deform the shell enough to get a grip on it with the tip of the pliers. That's how I'd do it. Your mileage may vary.
Maybe try using an adjustable pipe cutter clamp, that will make a clean cut around the battery
Found a review video for Jugee batteries from 2 years ago. He didn't get anything like the capacity results you saw and certainly didn't have the constant voltage at higher discharge rates, dropping to 1V at 1.5A. Presumably the technology has advanced in that time.
Well Clive only tested up to 1A , Clive's circuit explanation mentions 1V as the output voltage used to alert the load's low battery indicator before complete switch off, so the 1.5A overload might have set this off.
The anticipation in your voice when you said, "This could be quite destructive" @4:05 was a bit disturbing. That poor battery.
I wonder what current do the electronics draw. That's my main trouble with these Li-ion 1,5V batteries. I have a micro usb powered one, but it gets depleted too fast for the capacity it has.
Many brands out now 12/2022 with:: There are four protections for this AA battery, with intelligent control of the entire charging process, built-in protection device to prevent Overcharge, Overvoltage, Overcurrent, Over discharge, the charger has reverse charge protection . These are using a 5v power supply directly to the battery.
Thanks for finding these Clive, they would be ideal for a number of things around the house, but I've only been able to find supplies from US or Singapore sources. With the high shipping cost, and the Parcel Farce handling fee on top of the GST, I'd be paying more to get them here than the product cost. There are some similar units KENTLI / Hixon but difficult to see if they are of the same quality and they will still attract GST and Parcel Farce charges even though free postage. We are really penalised in the UK by the very low (£15) self import limit for GST.
There is a comment on the Patreon page that this type (but not the JUGEE ones) are available from Amazon UK. I checked and they are:
www.amazon.co.uk/YGJ-Rechargeable-lithium-battery-batteries/dp/B07YZCFF1G/
www.amazon.co.uk/EBL-AA-Rechargeable-Batteries-Capacity-Black/dp/B0828GN5RL/
@@Stuart-AJC Must have missed the comment on Patreon . Thanks for those pointers I'd searched Amazon, as well as fleaBay, but they did not turn up, just shows that Amazon search is not perfect!
Any chance of a test to see what the maximum current output is? Mostly wondering what the peak it can handle for say, (small) motor starting. Curious about the same for the Znter too if you still have one intact.
Are you sure the led's don't show charge level?
I agree with Astorath The Grim, why would I want to watch a short version and miss out on technical details? No point in watching a "half a job" vid. So anyhoo, my understanding is then, these cells are pretty much good for anything except very high drain applications (old school camera flash or maybe RC toys or power tools)? How long do they hold a charge, are they (for example) suitable for clocks? Looks like a really good product, thanks for the review :)
On the battery: please do not overcharge, cut or burn the Cell... Bigclive with a dremel : ok boomer
ISWYDT
Says you can't cut or burn - but clearly ok to Dremel ;)
Dodge Coronet Ok Boomer got ruined by shitheads, maybe, but it was initially great. Short, simple snub of an older person who refuses to listen to someone younger and blames everything on them whilst refusing to learn. Sadly, most people using it don’t understand the point of it and say it when it doesn’t even make any sense.
BOOM 💥🔥🥃🔦
@@manitoba-op4jx OK boomer
Bummer! 😕
Explosion, Flames & Smoke!⚡🔥⚡🔥⚡🔥⚡🔥⚡🔥
& It Wasnt Filmed... 🥺😭
How Disappointing... 😒
None The Less A Very Interesting Rechargeable Battery Video... 🤔😏
Good Job BIG CLIVE! 😉👍
Blessings: James... 🕊🌈
When you got the dremel onto it I actually stood back from my screen!
I wonder how the EBL's 1.5v rechargables compare to JUGEE's. My EBLs don't seem to drop their voltage down before the battery dies, leading to my controllers not giving me any low battery warning.
Clive, can these batteries be put in series? If so would the chip have to measure the incoming voltage on the negative pole and output not 1.5v but 1.5v above that input voltage? Is the lithium cell negative permanently connected to the battery negative or does the chip control the negative?
Can you put these batteries in series with regular 1.2 - 1.5v batteries? Would they just output 1.5v above incoming voltage or would they input the 1v above to indicate that they aren't happy when they see that the incoming voltage is not a multiple of 1.5v?
Is there a limit to the number of batteries that can be in series. In plain chemical batteries I would assume you can just put them in series until something fails. Would these have a maximum voltage in which they would cut off? (I assume all those components have a maximum rating)
I know with 12v lithium batteries some models can't be put in series (depending on BMS etc.) so I assume if these can be put in series that chip is doing more than your current diagram shows, and maybe that explains the additional pins and components as well. Would love to see a follow up video where you explain more about how these batteries act in series. Maybe also a test in parallel to see how they behave then. Great video but I feel it's left a bit incomplete.
Finally got around to buying these batteries. There were some of a different brand for sale rated at 3500mAh £24.99) but only described as Lithium, not LiPo. Not being sure of the difference between the chemistries I gave those a miss for the time being and went for the Jugees
Better than every ASMR Video. Perfect for guys like me who loves electronics
Does the battery shell contain a 13430 Li-Ion battery like the Tenavolts ones do?
I've been testing it's capacity in situ as the cell is jammed in so tight it may get damaged trying to remove it.
@@bigclivedotcom Just make sure you video it, we don't want to miss the flames.
I've been waiting for this for so long. I bought a bunch of different brands of the li-ion AA. But couldn't bring myself to tear apart my own set as I do use them heavily.
I wonder if they are dimentionally identical to standard AA alkalines? Some rechargeables have a diameter that is minutely larger than standard alkaline AA's.
Hi Clive, I don't remember (getting old) seeing the oscilloscope in any videos... Can you show the input and output current waveforms when testing power devices? A lot of inexpensive scopes have USB ports and capture features. Cheers, Tim
Hi Clive, did you ever do an update with the waveform going in and out of these cells?
Varta Professional AA Lithium one's with 2900mah as good with keeping 1.5V as well? I'm asking because they are a lot cheaper but I personally think of Varta as a decent battery manufacturer
Very interesting "active" battery with built in switching Voltage Regulator that puts out a constant voltage, that is to overcome the shortcomings of the battery chemistry. The question is how much power the voltage regulator circuit itself consumes, how hot the VR gets, and peak current limitations of the VR circuit. May not be a good fit for high current applications like power tools, etc.
Hon, we love you. Your willingness to do dumb shit for our entertainment, is commendable. That you also know all the electric goodness behind it? Much love. Sending love to you from Baltimore!
oo, i already know where i'd like a 4 pack of rechargable "high voltage" batteries. RC car remotes, now i will have to find me some, thanks for the videoi!
Yeah. Most controllers have a voltage regulator immediately after the battery contacts, and will happily take either a 1S or 2S lipo depending on the design.
Be careful though - the battery voltage will likely also feed into a ADC pin on the microcontroller for voltage detection. Some feed directly into this pin, so you may need also to check the data sheet for max input on that pin (it's probably less than the 8.4v of a fully charged 2S pack).
Check on forums and such because fairly good chance people have discussed it before unless you use very unusual controllers.
I've found slow fade rgb leds don't flash on mains power without a capacitor, do you think that if they made a white led that was just www, and switching between the three whites, they would eliminate the need for smoothing?
The extra pins could be for current handling.
Idk if it’s a twang when you sproing it with a tool or the sound internally when it shorts, but it makes a buzz sound every time you make a failed attempt