@covishen - The only time I hear it is if I watch his videos and listen with headphones. Normally I watch his videos on my TV with the sound going through my stereo and I never hear it.
@@Rodville I think its very close to the ambient noise from my computer i do hear it some times when its very quiet around me but very seldom I think because it's interesting conmtent. Had it been on gilmore girls we would have probably heard it all the time.
I just wanted to say thank you, I have learned so much with you. The technical stuff of course (very enjoyable) but as well as the basic trivial things no one is truly explaining such as soldering tips and tricks, cutting things the right length, using crimping tools ,terminating wires or just good/safe practices/habits to have and so much more of the little things in a very entertaining but skillful and understandable way. It gave me enough know how and confidence to try things myself and I wanted to thank you for that :)
Back in the 60s we were doing something like that with a plastic soda staw, and rtv caulking. Minus the heat shrink, and it was for automotive applications. We would slip a 2 or 3 inch piece of soda staw over one wire, solder the other wires to the first wire, and slide the straw over the connection, and squirt the rtv into the straw. In a wet environment it was the way to go. At least,, we didn't have any problems. ..
If you also watch Julian Ilett's channel, you can see that his production of the outdoor solar controllers he makes/sells/used to sell have a similar construction, hot melt glue under heatshrink.
Did something similar with some old phone cells (motivated by previous projects of yours), used them to power a slow cycling RGB LED, in such a configuration that it can be charged while the light is still on, one could conceivably do that with these quite easily, just add a second connector on the battery without a resistor. For some of us IT guys, its all about uptime!
As someone who's been thinking about getting back into hobbyist electronics for the first time since I was about 12, these videos have been an absolute goldmine for simple, useful tips and bucketloads of information, free of the oft-seen "you need £200 worth of tools & equipment before you even start" gatekeeping of hobbies like these. Like here, strengthening (and I suppose insulating too) bare leads using nothing but a hot glue gun and some heatshrink! Simple but brilliant. Thanks for your work & expertise in putting these together in a way that even an idiot like me can understand. And if you happen to be reading comments on this old video, I must ask where you get your equipment from, particularly those micro molex connectors? The only places I can find sell a single pair for about £2, or a million pairs for £20. Either way, a bit of an investment for a single project that I might give up on halfway through! :)
On my bassy laptop (with headphones and/or inbuilt speakers) and TV I can, but they can stream at 4k (not that the videos are uploaded at 4k), so wonder if they are able to decompress more effectively, as never heard on my iPad (with same decent headphones or inbuilt speakers).
7:10 Posssbly the BL-5C which of course comes from old Nokia phones, but now pleasantly makes an appearance in modern portable radios such as the Retekess V115 and the Retevis RB615.
I love the TP4056 modules. I converted pretty much all my LED flashlights (and the vintage ones that weren't originally LED got an upgrade) to use lithium cells using those modules to have built-in charging capability. It takes only a couple of minutes to set everything up and I've got quite good at embedding the circuit inside the device. Another fun thing is to restuff alkaline batteries (like the 6V lantern battery or the 4.5V flat square ones) with the lithium cell and circuit to make a completely invisible and reversible mod.
Hey thanks for sharing your experience. It would be really cool to watch a video of you retrofitting a 6V battery with lithium cells, I'd click on that in a second.
I use these cells to build little night lights to guide you the way. I found out they give me enough light when i run the led with 0.1mA or even less. One 18650 liion cells will last for 2-3 years. Self discharge will be higher than the actual current of the led. I just use smd 5630 leds from 5m strips with a 10k resistor in series.
i cant hear the soldering iron, or the noise from my desktop computer is outbuzzing it, heh. Or its my damaged hearing :-) Very neat project, need to look into it and see if i got some leds laying about, might have my old samsung s4 4000ish mah battery somewhere... or a old powerbank to salvage!
To release those connectors from the shell you can use a 180g-Force Pogo Pin - the spring takes up some of the pressure and limits the damage to the connector retention tab as you press on it. Snip the tip off a spear-shape probe with a side cutter - a real one, not one for tiny component leads, the cheap component snips are too soft) and it won't skid as much on the tab
I've ordered 3 sets of crimpers off Amazon with overwhelming positive reviews. All garbage! Is there a direct link to the good ones? Searching, and wondering if the reviews are legit or a scam is getting tiresome.
Love the simple explanation on how to calculate the amperage and the little adapter is a nice touch. I like the fact that you can still see the resistor value. Awesome video.
Perfect timing. Just like you I bought one of those Halloween Strobe lights with the nice housing on clearance and my plan is exactly this right down to the charger board. Ok back to watching.
Hey Clive, I'd suggest looking into graphene supercaps. You might find them interesting for how small they are compared to traditional supercaps(which are of course humongous.)
I don't think they've come of age yet. There's also the issue that if a graphene supercapacitor can be charged in seconds then it can also unleash all its energy in seconds too. I wonder what the failure mode is.
Love the thumb and index holding the wires and the middle and ring holding the solder. Not your 1st time doing that I guess 😉. I'll have to try that. Its always a dance with alligator clips over here.
I didn't even realise I soldered like that until people pointed it out. It also explains why people would ask me if I wanted them to hold stuff while I did repairs and then suddenly went silent when I started using my left hand to hold the PCB, hold the component in position and feed solder in simultaneously.
When I see Bigclive doing it, it looks amazing and difficult, but I've caught myself doing it too. Hands are amazing. Good to see you also watch Bigclive.
I have a set of 100 warm white lights. They were powered off three AA cells and a flasher circuit. Funny thing was the circuit boosted the voltage to something like 24V and toggled the polarity for the effects. I eventually replaced the controller with a small 24V transformer and a 27K resistor. The lights now take about 0.3mA and something like 7mW for the lot. At night they still give enough light for me not to walk into things in the room whilst still enabling me to see the stars through the windows! It is impressive how efficient LEDs are these days, I remember my first ones in the early 1970s, 10mA and you could see red LEDs if the room wasn't brightly lit :-)
Clive! Icon of freelance electronic technology implementation! I watch on 50 inch tvs as monitors and listen through workshop HI=FI receiver and have never heard your soldering station buzzing. Love your videos and view them promptly. Kudos!
Common non rechargeable lithium cells have significant amounts of *metallic* lithium in them (amateur chemists frequently use AA lithium cells as a source for lithium metal). Rechargeable lithium cells nominally don't have any *metallic* lithium in them (though it can plate out to some degree during the charge/discharge cycle)
right! that coin cell actually has a big piece of lithium metal in there, I've opened a lot of them and throw it into the water, the quality of lithium metal goes down if the cell is discharged though...
Dear Clive, I have a Moto G5 and love it as an all round mobile. Batteries are less than £10 and you just open the back and fit them yourself, 30 seconds. I have to say the new G8 does look good, large battery, good camera/cheap storage you fit yourself, but sealed back, Cheers Colin.
Funny that I decided to use an LG phone battery as I began to watch this. It's been a few years since it got charged and still lighted up my LED tester. Having small LEDs and wires nearby opened up some exploration for me recently. Your videos are helping me with some circuits I wanted to make.
Maybe I misunderstood you when you talked about one MOS being energized for charging and the other for discharging, but I think you misspoke (don't take me wrong, I'm your fan and I think your channel is great! ) I once worked a bit on a power management unit (PMU) and I believe I know why they use 2 MOS. The use of 2 NMOS is because of the diodes which are shown in the schematic, called body diodes, and that are intrinsic/parasitic to the transistor itself (that's why they are in dashed lines) . By having 2 MOS you end up with 2 back to back diodes which can not conduct in a faulty condition. That is the purpose of the 2 NMOS, despite making the MOS resistance 2x worse and doubling the cost (in MOS at least). For instance, imagine you don't have M1. If BATT+ gets accidentally shorted to BATT-, even if the chip detects it (it should) and turns OFF M2, current will still flow through its body diode and the chip would not have control and be able to protect the battery. Inserting M1 fixes that. Likewise, w/o M2, if someone accidentally tries to overcharge the battery, even if M1 is turned OFF current will still flow through its body diode. You'll need M2 to cut it off. Sure you can use the parasitic diodes path on charge/discharge cycles, but that would lead right away to a drop of 0.7V on the battery voltage and to a loss of efficiency. The MOS resistance is much smaller and the diodes were never intended to be used as charging or discharging devices. Both NMOS are therefore turned ON either when charging or discharging. Of course I might be wrong, but it's too late and I'm too lazy to go check the DW01-P datasheet right now 😊 Cheers.
I think you're right. You can't have significant current through either gate, nor through the current sense pin on the chip. Rub those out and you're left with no path on the negative side if either mosfet is off. It has to go through both mosfets in either direction.
Clive, the Uni-T meter becomes a lot easier to use if you put a little dot of white paint in the indicator dimple on the dial switch. Try it and see if it helps you. I've applied this to other meters too. Cheers, mate!
This is actually pretty awesome, i have done this myself, but not with these kinds of batteries. I took a large retro looking lamp, with those big round glass tops and i have put an old color changing LED setup only in the glass part. So Basically its a big glowing ball when i put it on the floor with the light inside it. The LED changes colors slowly out of one single LED and with the diffusing of the lamps spherical dome that sits by itself on the floor, as if some kind of colored crystal ball, its a nice nightlight for ambiance. I will convert to these batteries next and i like the connector idea of it as well. :)
Nice. I have a few old Lithium cells lying about. On a similar note I recently resurrected some old hair clippers where the 3xAA NiCd battery pack had died. I replaced the innards of the charger with a crap USB 5V PSU and rehacked the clippers to use a 18500 Lithium cell with one of those charger/protection circuits you used. They work brilliantly now. Charge very quickly and last for ages per charge and a bit lighter too. The charger weighs almost nothing compared to the big old transformer that used to be in it. I now use the clippers to trim by little beard one a week :)
Them little TP4056 boards are handy, I've converted a number of things from Alkaline battery to Lithium batteries using these boards, just have to make sure to replace the charge current resistor to match the cell, otherwise it can pump too much current into the cell, which the protection will stop, but still better to be safe... :)
@@bigclivedotcom Obviously there will be things to overcome, but from what I've seen so far (and it's early days for me at least) it seems to be promising, if for no other reason than not having to carry small bombs around with me all the time. To be fair this is coming from 'proper' sources so I am rather more enthused than with the usual nonsense lol
A heat gun has been on my list for years. I really need to do something about that, eaaaaa ? Years and Years. One never has enough Kapton Tape. Or the right size.
Love it Clive, would like to see you try a little light from the side where your wrists are, just to get rid of some of the shadows, only needs a little bit.
Something I do with those two-cell Christmas light strings: I make a "Joule Thief" circuit and mount it in the space which was supposed to be occupied by one of the two cells, then I run the light string from a single cell in the remaining space of the battery compartment. The single cell lasts about the same time as the two cells, but the string of LEDs drains the power fast regardless of whether you use it in the original configuration or with a joule thief circuit. BTW, old CFL lamps are a great source for transformer cores to use to make the joule thief circuit. They each have a toroid and a straight inductor, and both of them can be used. The wire from the straight inductor can be unwound and re-used to make the coils for your joule thief circuits, with plenty of wire left over.
I've said it once and I'll say it again, I would love to have a video consisting of your life from leaving school onwards, I'm fascinated as to how knowledgeable you are with electronics and a vast array of other stuff. It's a complicated subject yet somehow you break it down into plain English, or Scottish in your case. You must have left school with some decent exam results to enable you to embark on the career you chose. So how about a Story of BC After School?? 😁😁
Short summary. Bottom of the class at school. Straight into an apprenticeship with an electrical engineering company. Then just absorbing huge quantities of electrical and electronic data throughout my life.
@@bigclivedotcom Just goes to show formal education isn't everything. Learning on the job and building experience as you go (good and bad) leads to a better engineer.
And if you buy a BL-5C type battery for a device and it's too thick, you need the thinner BL-4C instead. For actual, genuine nokia batteries the BL-5C would be 1020mAh and the BL-4C 720mAh. The fakes/knockoffs usually claim completely ridiculous capacities (I've seen anything from 1500-2900mAh for a BL-5C, which isn't possible in that physical size) and are actually far below the original batteries' rated capacities (usually 500-800mAh for an okay-ish BL-5C clone, less for really crappy ones)
iirc lithium primaries have way more lithium in them than the rechargeable ones, they also have better energy density and can be stored for 10-30 years before self discharge kills them
For those of you here on the other side of the pond, Klein tools, (e.g. ratchet crimpers and manual strippers), are also high quality. They are carried in some big box home improvement stores, and Amazon also has them.
Hola nunca fui a la escuela de electrónica, siempre me a fascinado el tema, hago pequeños proyectos con Arduino .Ahora reciclo una batería de teléfono, con un TP 4056 y alcanza los 4.30 volts no apaga el led rojo (cargando) y por lógica no enciende el azul (cargado) busque todo el día como reducir la histéresis entre encendido y apagado, pensando en voltaje. A pesar de no comprender con precisión tu explicación, veo que la histéresis entre encendido y apagado es controlada por corriente, (i) voy a quitar la resistencia de 1k y pondré un trimpot, espero conseguir cambios en la histéresis, desde hace tiempo eres una de mis profesores favoritos de electrónica nunca me di el valor de hacer comentarios. Saludos desde Queretaro MX
Puede haber alguna variación entre los módulos TP4056. Podría valer la pena probar con otro. Muchos de ellos disminuyen mucho la velocidad cuando la celda está casi llena.
I'm an electronics noob and was just wondering what size resistor I needed to run a string of leds just like those from a battery pack. Bought them last year and over Christmas I had to charge the batteries twice, Big Clive to the rescue.
Generally, 10 Ohm resistors seem to be about right for white LEDs. The problem is that if you have a lot of LEDs in parallel, they could draw so much current that a small resistor will burn out from the load. With 20 LEDs running from the peak Li-Ion cell voltage of 4.2V, you'd need a resister able to dissipate 1.68 Watts. Basically, take the voltage (4.2V) and multiply by the amps (20mA per LED by 20 LEDs = 400mA or 0.4A) to get the wattage. Commonly available electronics resistors can't handle anything near that kind of power, so you'll need to make sure you get one made to handle it.
Resistive voltage dropping always makes me grind my teeth at the universe a little bit. In this case the circuit probably burns off 1/4 of the power of that battery as waste heat.
i mean he's dropping 1.5v sure it's losing 1/3 of the energy but a buck converter and support components to source 15ma from 4.1v to 2.6v at better than 66% efficiency likely costs more than adding 100% extra capacity. what should really grind your teeth are old night lights with resistive droppers from 240v that short the bulb with an ldr to turn it off
Thank you for that reminder about measuring voltage drop across the resistor you know the value of to determine Amp draw. I appreciate you sir. You are very easy to follow and learn from.
I have been using the TP4065 modules for ages now. Make sure to get the ones with protection built in to make sure shorts are protected. Lately I have been trying to implement the version with adjustable output which works well, until you want to fix the pot. It always seems to shift a bit.
I’m surprised that basic and cheap multimeters don’t have a “current passing through resistor” mode where they check resistance and voltage drop and calculate the current, they could even re sample the resistance every few cycles/seconds, that way you get a live update if the resistance doesn’t change, with a slight hiccup every few seconds, but if testing through a variable resistor you still get an accurate calculation just slower
The wire strippers you use are the same type as my preferred ones, I think I acquired them from a careless engineer at my factory, these are basic but consistent when stripping many wires. Great tool from great careless engineer.
i kinda like manual range meters too because you know what range you are in. the autoranging meters sometimes take a minute to properly read it to figure out exactly which range you are in, whether you should add some zeros in your head or something, etc
Finally! Pretty much did this with a 1000 Lumen solar motion light so I can manually charge it with a USB power bank or by plugging it into a socket TP4056 + 18650 + 22 gauge wire + USB cable = Never having a dead solar light during winter ever again. I have the wire leading into the house so I don't have to go outside manually charge it.
I tend to melt insulation off cables instead of using strippers if my shitty iron is on. I have several irons on the bench, one always reserved for dirty work like melting insulation and plastic welding. (I have good exterior-vented fume extraction and I can't even spell carsinojinns. )
@@Dlck.C.Normous The lead is not really in the fumes and the flux, that does vaporize, for lead-free solder is apparently more aggressive, so you might want to check more reliable sources than my YT comment before committing :P
@@johnrehwinkel7241 That's probably why a lot of products that need a battery with low self discharge like clocks tend to use alkaline batteries instead of the more expensive lithium primary ones.
I always used a similar manual stripper to Clive's, except mine was much worse made in quality. Its jaws were straight and didn't connect very well and it didn't cut very well and it was a chore to adjust, and due to bad alignment, and visibility, the amount of covering removed tended to be pretty random. I tried a few automatic ones at a store. They do tend to not work on thinner cables, but there are expensive ones that can. I watched a video by Andreas Spiess about wire strippers and chose the big clunky Chinese black plastic one, the FS-D3, ordered it for about 6€, it took about 3 months, and surprise, it actually works amazingly well for super thin wires and even for ribbon cables.
Speaking of thoes crimping tools, I have on occasion had to use a pair of pliers in their stead, and yes they are very much worth every last penny for the correct tool.
You couldn't be more wrong about flagship phones not being able to focus on things at close range, it's one thing I absolutely love about my Samsung and previous Samsung is that I can zoom in to incredible levels on circuit boards I'm working with
you show the safe application in electrical circuits, it is nice to see the methods and explanation of how things safely work together. plus the use of the connections for easy applications with universal connections and various resistors. along with changing set up for the battery.nice video
Bill’s Tool Store in the Glasga Barras is my go-to place for impossible to find stuff. Best visited often, buy on impulse and keep for when may be needed. I really must build another shed. Staff know a lot of stuff too. As usual Clive, both entertaining and educative. Shame a lot of teachers don’t understand the need for both.
I should have sent my AvE ruler to you for assembly i managed to fudge it right up somehow. Also what should I look for if I want one of those crimper things?
Nice tip on checking if it has protection, I have loads cell phone batteries and other lithium cells from all sorts of stuff and these little tips and hacks are always useful😊 by the way?? Do phone batteries that have protection have it marked in anyway on the out side??
The only sure way of telling is to put a reasonable load on the cell and measure its voltage as it discharges, monitoring it all the while to see if it drops below about 2.8V. If it does, it's not protected and should be immediately charged back up to 3.6V (storage voltage) to prevent it from being damaged by the over-discharge. A protected cell should simply cut off the power once its voltage drops below 2.8-3V
Is it just me? I never hear the soldering iron buzzing.
Not just you, I've never heard it either.
@covishen - The only time I hear it is if I watch his videos and listen with headphones. Normally I watch his videos on my TV with the sound going through my stereo and I never hear it.
I thought it was just me being old and my hearing going out.
@@Rodville I think its very close to the ambient noise from my computer i do hear it some times when its very quiet around me but very seldom I think because it's interesting conmtent. Had it been on gilmore girls we would have probably heard it all the time.
I've never heard a soldering iron buzz. None of mine buzz. Maybe you've got some mechanical issues if yours does.
"There are other strippers that you can get that are easier" ...
... is that also in Glasgow?
@michel777ification I thought strippers were more of a nightly business than daily...
Just avoid Thai strippers. Believe me.
It's a puzzlement. Aren't they made for ambient pleasurement? Are you saying that strippers are not all the Siam?
@@michaelthibault7930 you ruined the joke...
@chara
Joke, what joke?
I just wanted to say thank you, I have learned so much with you. The technical stuff of course (very enjoyable) but as well as the basic trivial things no one is truly explaining such as soldering tips and tricks, cutting things the right length, using crimping tools ,terminating wires or just good/safe practices/habits to have and so much more of the little things in a very entertaining but skillful and understandable way. It gave me enough know how and confidence to try things myself and I wanted to thank you for that :)
Clive, your voice, content and delivery pleases my soul just about more than anything else on UA-cam. Keep the videos coming!
That hot glue in heatshrink method is a nice trick to know. Thanks for that :)
Back in the 60s we were doing something like that with a plastic soda staw, and rtv caulking. Minus the heat shrink, and it was for automotive applications.
We would slip a 2 or 3 inch piece of soda staw over one wire, solder the other wires to the first wire, and slide the straw over the connection, and squirt the rtv into the straw. In a wet environment it was the way to go. At least,, we didn't have any problems. ..
If you also watch Julian Ilett's channel, you can see that his production of the outdoor solar controllers he makes/sells/used to sell have a similar construction, hot melt glue under heatshrink.
ua-cam.com/video/hjAOvfk7pI8/v-deo.html
ua-cam.com/video/_YGlRkArsyA/v-deo.html
From about 5 mins:
ua-cam.com/video/AB5-1nRMvFQ/v-deo.html
N.B. This video is not sponsored or endorsed by DuPont, Motorola Mobility or Fire Containment Pie Dish Ltd.
I forgot I can use Fray Bentos tins for useful purposes.
I can't wait for the Fire Containment Pie Dish Ltd sponsor.
Did something similar with some old phone cells (motivated by previous projects of yours), used them to power a slow cycling RGB LED, in such a configuration that it can be charged while the light is still on, one could conceivably do that with these quite easily, just add a second connector on the battery without a resistor. For some of us IT guys, its all about uptime!
As someone who's been thinking about getting back into hobbyist electronics for the first time since I was about 12, these videos have been an absolute goldmine for simple, useful tips and bucketloads of information, free of the oft-seen "you need £200 worth of tools & equipment before you even start" gatekeeping of hobbies like these. Like here, strengthening (and I suppose insulating too) bare leads using nothing but a hot glue gun and some heatshrink! Simple but brilliant.
Thanks for your work & expertise in putting these together in a way that even an idiot like me can understand. And if you happen to be reading comments on this old video, I must ask where you get your equipment from, particularly those micro molex connectors? The only places I can find sell a single pair for about £2, or a million pairs for £20. Either way, a bit of an investment for a single project that I might give up on halfway through! :)
If you search for KF2510 you'll find the little Molex style connectors and their crimps.
Add a video on Deutsch plugs. I hate them
Cracked up when he pulled out that pink calculator
It says Sissy Squad. Must be some sort of awesome superhero team.
New here?
@@vicecapo8767 Nope lol
@@juliannesermon8057 Vince the crew chief at the tattoo likes to tease Clive. he stuck it on the calculator.
Pulling out a calculator to divide by 100
As a curiosity item, does anyone else actually hear the soldering iron buzzing? I never have.
Nope, never... I thought it was just me who couldn't hear it.
The human ear is better at picking up the sound than the phone microphone. Then UA-cam compresses it. There's little chance of us hearing it.
no
Nope, never.
On my bassy laptop (with headphones and/or inbuilt speakers) and TV I can, but they can stream at 4k (not that the videos are uploaded at 4k), so wonder if they are able to decompress more effectively, as never heard on my iPad (with same decent headphones or inbuilt speakers).
I was all focusing in a serious manner until the Sissy Squad came forward and the laughter took over.
7:10 Posssbly the BL-5C which of course comes from old Nokia phones, but now pleasantly makes an appearance in modern portable radios such as the Retekess V115 and the Retevis RB615.
Nokia and Technifone garbage
Love your videos Clive and it's a delight to listen to someone who speaks English very well.
High quality racheting crimping tools are a wise investment.
I love the TP4056 modules. I converted pretty much all my LED flashlights (and the vintage ones that weren't originally LED got an upgrade) to use lithium cells using those modules to have built-in charging capability.
It takes only a couple of minutes to set everything up and I've got quite good at embedding the circuit inside the device.
Another fun thing is to restuff alkaline batteries (like the 6V lantern battery or the 4.5V flat square ones) with the lithium cell and circuit to make a completely invisible and reversible mod.
Hey thanks for sharing your experience. It would be really cool to watch a video of you retrofitting a 6V battery with lithium cells, I'd click on that in a second.
I use these cells to build little night lights to guide you the way. I found out they give me enough light when i run the led with 0.1mA or even less. One 18650 liion cells will last for 2-3 years. Self discharge will be higher than the actual current of the led. I just use smd 5630 leds from 5m strips with a 10k resistor in series.
Wonder's if Clive has a red dot on his socks ! Chuckles and runs from the glare !
i cant hear the soldering iron, or the noise from my desktop computer is outbuzzing it, heh.
Or its my damaged hearing :-)
Very neat project, need to look into it and see if i got some leds laying about, might have my old samsung s4 4000ish mah battery somewhere... or a old powerbank to salvage!
"I'm just gonna make sure I'm not doing anything weird here." That is something I never thought Big Clive would ever say. Ever. :o)
To release those connectors from the shell you can use a 180g-Force Pogo Pin - the spring takes up some of the pressure and limits the damage to the connector retention tab as you press on it.
Snip the tip off a spear-shape probe with a side cutter - a real one, not one for tiny component leads, the cheap component snips are too soft) and it won't skid as much on the tab
I've ordered 3 sets of crimpers off Amazon with overwhelming positive reviews. All garbage!
Is there a direct link to the good ones? Searching, and wondering if the reviews are legit or a scam is getting tiresome.
@@ICNine Thats a nice tool and all but the OP said 'wire crimpers' you posted a link to a wire strippers.
Love the simple explanation on how to calculate the amperage and the little adapter is a nice touch. I like the fact that you can still see the resistor value. Awesome video.
Perfect timing. Just like you I bought one of those Halloween Strobe lights with the nice housing on clearance and my plan is exactly this right down to the charger board. Ok back to watching.
None of us can hear that soldering iron, Clive ... but it is nice to imagine we could ... go on, tell us another one
Hey Clive, I'd suggest looking into graphene supercaps. You might find them interesting for how small they are compared to traditional supercaps(which are of course humongous.)
I don't think they've come of age yet. There's also the issue that if a graphene supercapacitor can be charged in seconds then it can also unleash all its energy in seconds too. I wonder what the failure mode is.
Love the thumb and index holding the wires and the middle and ring holding the solder. Not your 1st time doing that I guess 😉. I'll have to try that. Its always a dance with alligator clips over here.
I didn't even realise I soldered like that until people pointed it out. It also explains why people would ask me if I wanted them to hold stuff while I did repairs and then suddenly went silent when I started using my left hand to hold the PCB, hold the component in position and feed solder in simultaneously.
When I see Bigclive doing it, it looks amazing and difficult, but I've caught myself doing it too. Hands are amazing. Good to see you also watch Bigclive.
Good to see you dropping by Steve. Good luck with the saw restoration !
@@routercnc9517 Thanks. The saw is slowly coming around. I like watching what Clive gets into. I always seem to pick up something from his videos.
After a few prods with a hot soldering iron I learned to control my fingers pretty quickly. I assume the same for Clive :-)
I’m gonna be learning how to build my own battery bank soon. I’ve got recycled 18650 cells coming and I’m excited.
I have a set of 100 warm white lights. They were powered off three AA cells and a flasher circuit. Funny thing was the circuit boosted the voltage to something like 24V and toggled the polarity for the effects.
I eventually replaced the controller with a small 24V transformer and a 27K resistor. The lights now take about 0.3mA and something like 7mW for the lot. At night they still give enough light for me not to walk into things in the room whilst still enabling me to see the stars through the windows!
It is impressive how efficient LEDs are these days, I remember my first ones in the early 1970s, 10mA and you could see red LEDs if the room wasn't brightly lit :-)
Modern LEDs are incredible. Visibly lit at literally microamps.
“There are others strippers you can get“
Oh my. It all depends on your tastes and budget.
Mainly cheap ones.
@@bigclivedotcom i know who im inviting next time i get a fat stack of ones
@@bland9876, Excellent name. ;-)
@@MyName-tb9oz wire stripes = anorexic girl
Discounts available if you're not picky about age or number of teeth. 😉
..... When the flux smoke rises towards the camera, I instinctively 'blow' it away, (as I have done for 50 years).
here 2 :)
Same here except I keep my breath while the fumes pass :-)
A little late for Clive, ok?
Clive! Icon of freelance electronic technology implementation! I watch on 50 inch tvs as monitors and listen through workshop HI=FI receiver and have never heard your soldering station buzzing. Love your videos and view them promptly. Kudos!
No, I don't hear the soldering iron xfmr either. Maybe I'm missing out on the ambient pleasurement?
Common non rechargeable lithium cells have significant amounts of *metallic* lithium in them (amateur chemists frequently use AA lithium cells as a source for lithium metal).
Rechargeable lithium cells nominally don't have any *metallic* lithium in them (though it can plate out to some degree during the charge/discharge cycle)
right! that coin cell actually has a big piece of lithium metal in there, I've opened a lot of them and throw it into the water, the quality of lithium metal goes down if the cell is discharged though...
24:00 - "If, however, you have a big, *_fat_* battery pack..." How rude! It's not fat...it's just got big atoms. ;) lol
It was a penis reference
Dear Clive, I have a Moto G5 and love it as an all round mobile. Batteries are less than £10 and you just open the back and fit them yourself, 30 seconds. I have to say the new G8 does look good, large battery, good camera/cheap storage you fit yourself, but sealed back, Cheers Colin.
This is the Clive we know and love! Thanks for doing a well needed hack episode!
He was drunk on grappa
Funny that I decided to use an LG phone battery as I began to watch this. It's been a few years since it got charged and still lighted up my LED tester. Having small LEDs and wires nearby opened up some exploration for me recently. Your videos are helping me with some circuits I wanted to make.
Maybe I misunderstood you when you talked about one MOS being energized for charging and the other for discharging, but I think you misspoke (don't take me wrong, I'm your fan and I think your channel is great! )
I once worked a bit on a power management unit (PMU) and I believe I know why they use 2 MOS.
The use of 2 NMOS is because of the diodes which are shown in the schematic, called body diodes, and that are intrinsic/parasitic to the transistor itself (that's why they are in dashed lines) .
By having 2 MOS you end up with 2 back to back diodes which can not conduct in a faulty condition. That is the purpose of the 2 NMOS, despite making the MOS resistance 2x worse and doubling the cost (in MOS at least).
For instance, imagine you don't have M1. If BATT+ gets accidentally shorted to BATT-, even if the chip detects it (it should) and turns OFF M2, current will still flow through its body diode and the chip would not have control and be able to protect the battery. Inserting M1 fixes that.
Likewise, w/o M2, if someone accidentally tries to overcharge the battery, even if M1 is turned OFF current will still flow through its body diode. You'll need M2 to cut it off.
Sure you can use the parasitic diodes path on charge/discharge cycles, but that would lead right away to a drop of 0.7V on the battery voltage and to a loss of efficiency. The MOS resistance is much smaller and the diodes were never intended to be used as charging or discharging devices.
Both NMOS are therefore turned ON either when charging or discharging.
Of course I might be wrong, but it's too late and I'm too lazy to go check the DW01-P datasheet right now 😊
Cheers.
I think you're right. You can't have significant current through either gate, nor through the current sense pin on the chip. Rub those out and you're left with no path on the negative side if either mosfet is off. It has to go through both mosfets in either direction.
Clive, the Uni-T meter becomes a lot easier to use if you put a little dot of white paint in the indicator dimple on the dial switch. Try it and see if it helps you. I've applied this to other meters too. Cheers, mate!
Who are you? The next unabomber?
This is actually pretty awesome, i have done this myself, but not with these kinds of batteries. I took a large retro looking lamp, with those big round glass tops and i have put an old color changing LED setup only in the glass part. So Basically its a big glowing ball when i put it on the floor with the light inside it. The LED changes colors slowly out of one single LED and with the diffusing of the lamps spherical dome that sits by itself on the floor, as if some kind of colored crystal ball, its a nice nightlight for ambiance. I will convert to these batteries next and i like the connector idea of it as well. :)
Nice. I have a few old Lithium cells lying about.
On a similar note I recently resurrected some old hair clippers where the 3xAA NiCd battery pack had died. I replaced the innards of the charger with a crap USB 5V PSU and rehacked the clippers to use a 18500 Lithium cell with one of those charger/protection circuits you used. They work brilliantly now. Charge very quickly and last for ages per charge and a bit lighter too. The charger weighs almost nothing compared to the big old transformer that used to be in it.
I now use the clippers to trim by little beard one a week :)
I like the hot melt glue idea to give the connections stability. I will use this first chance I get great idea.
Them little TP4056 boards are handy, I've converted a number of things from Alkaline battery to Lithium batteries using these boards, just have to make sure to replace the charge current resistor to match the cell, otherwise it can pump too much current into the cell, which the protection will stop, but still better to be safe... :)
Wish I could like this video twice. Thanks for the content BigClive
I'm getting some great visuals from 'lucid mooses', thank you!😂☁️☁️☁️🌱☘🍀💚💙💛
I wish I could give you 2 thumbs down
Hey Clive, when are you going to upload a 1-hour Yule Pie Dish Lithium Fire?
That might have to replace my Yule Log video that i use so often at various holiday things
15:00 BigClive's electronic version of "Measure twice, cut once." 👌
Have you tried the charging module in a solar light with a battery without protection?? If so how'd the module perform?
Thanks Clive, I learned something today. Best wishes.
Nice modular approach Clive. I have a tub of assorted cells that need a bit of this action.
Hey Clive - what do you think of 'solid state' battery technology ?
I'll believe it when I see it being manufactured.
@@bigclivedotcom Obviously there will be things to overcome, but from what I've seen so far (and it's early days for me at least) it seems to be promising, if for no other reason than not having to carry small bombs around with me all the time. To be fair this is coming from 'proper' sources so I am rather more enthused than with the usual nonsense lol
A heat gun has been on my list for years. I really need to do something about that, eaaaaa ? Years and Years. One never has enough Kapton Tape. Or the right size.
For heat-shrink tubing an ordinary hair dryer may do. A lighter or candle works too.
Love it Clive, would like to see you try a little light from the side where your wrists are, just to get rid of some of the shadows, only needs a little bit.
Something I do with those two-cell Christmas light strings: I make a "Joule Thief" circuit and mount it in the space which was supposed to be occupied by one of the two cells, then I run the light string from a single cell in the remaining space of the battery compartment. The single cell lasts about the same time as the two cells, but the string of LEDs drains the power fast regardless of whether you use it in the original configuration or with a joule thief circuit.
BTW, old CFL lamps are a great source for transformer cores to use to make the joule thief circuit. They each have a toroid and a straight inductor, and both of them can be used. The wire from the straight inductor can be unwound and re-used to make the coils for your joule thief circuits, with plenty of wire left over.
Thanks this was a really good one. I like to watch you work and learn from you (rather than you just dismantling stuff).
I've said it once and I'll say it again, I would love to have a video consisting of your life from leaving school onwards, I'm fascinated as to how knowledgeable you are with electronics and a vast array of other stuff. It's a complicated subject yet somehow you break it down into plain English, or Scottish in your case. You must have left school with some decent exam results to enable you to embark on the career you chose. So how about a Story of BC After School?? 😁😁
Short summary. Bottom of the class at school. Straight into an apprenticeship with an electrical engineering company. Then just absorbing huge quantities of electrical and electronic data throughout my life.
@@bigclivedotcom Just goes to show formal education isn't everything. Learning on the job and building experience as you go (good and bad) leads to a better engineer.
Get a life baby
I really enjoy watching your little projects, as they give me little hints on what I can use the same similar circuitry in other projects.
7:09 That Nokia battery is model BL-5C. If anyone's interested.
As used on the fantastic and super cheap Retekess V115 radio
And if you buy a BL-5C type battery for a device and it's too thick, you need the thinner BL-4C instead. For actual, genuine nokia batteries the BL-5C would be 1020mAh and the BL-4C 720mAh. The fakes/knockoffs usually claim completely ridiculous capacities (I've seen anything from 1500-2900mAh for a BL-5C, which isn't possible in that physical size) and are actually far below the original batteries' rated capacities (usually 500-800mAh for an okay-ish BL-5C clone, less for really crappy ones)
iirc lithium primaries have way more lithium in them than the rechargeable ones, they also have better energy density and can be stored for 10-30 years before self discharge kills them
@@andrew_koala2974 You just pretty much defined "self-discharge."
Is there a great reason for little stuff like this to be using kapton tape instead of regular vinyl electrical tape?
Electrical isolation properties & great for vast temp ranges mate
It doesn't melt or catch fire as easily. It's just a bit safer.
@@MickeyD2012 but realistically, in these sorts of uses probably either is sufficient?
@@gd.ritter It's better than hanging on to it.
Nice calculator Clive.
Sorry, can't hear the soldering iron over my server and networking gears insanely loud fans for some strange reason.........
That's a familiar looking charge controller. I have a bunch of them.
The charging module has a protection circuit. The small battery that you used also has built in protection. Does this affect the charging?
It doesn't have much effect. The protection usually has a slightly higher voltage threshold.
Aww bigclive, you could have used the dinky meter and just done a multi-turn reading for higher sensitivity.
Very timely with Xmas approaching. Thanks
For those of you here on the other side of the pond, Klein tools, (e.g. ratchet crimpers and manual strippers), are also high quality. They are carried in some big box home improvement stores, and Amazon also has them.
You should have just stopped at STRIPPERS. YOU WOULD HAVE GOT A RARE THUMBS UP. Had to go geek it up....
Your videos are wonderful Clive, I enjoy every one...... Thank You.
Hola nunca fui a la escuela de electrónica, siempre me a fascinado el tema, hago pequeños proyectos con Arduino .Ahora reciclo una batería de teléfono, con un TP 4056 y alcanza los 4.30 volts no apaga el led rojo (cargando) y por lógica no enciende el azul (cargado) busque todo el día como reducir la histéresis entre encendido y apagado, pensando en voltaje. A pesar de no comprender con precisión tu explicación, veo que la histéresis entre encendido y apagado es controlada por corriente, (i) voy a quitar la resistencia de 1k y pondré un trimpot, espero conseguir cambios en la histéresis, desde hace tiempo eres una de mis profesores favoritos de electrónica nunca me di el valor de hacer comentarios. Saludos desde Queretaro MX
Puede haber alguna variación entre los módulos TP4056. Podría valer la pena probar con otro.
Muchos de ellos disminuyen mucho la velocidad cuando la celda está casi llena.
I'm an electronics noob and was just wondering what size resistor I needed to run a string of leds just like those from a battery pack. Bought them last year and over Christmas I had to charge the batteries twice, Big Clive to the rescue.
Generally, 10 Ohm resistors seem to be about right for white LEDs. The problem is that if you have a lot of LEDs in parallel, they could draw so much current that a small resistor will burn out from the load. With 20 LEDs running from the peak Li-Ion cell voltage of 4.2V, you'd need a resister able to dissipate 1.68 Watts. Basically, take the voltage (4.2V) and multiply by the amps (20mA per LED by 20 LEDs = 400mA or 0.4A) to get the wattage.
Commonly available electronics resistors can't handle anything near that kind of power, so you'll need to make sure you get one made to handle it.
Resistive voltage dropping always makes me grind my teeth at the universe a little bit. In this case the circuit probably burns off 1/4 of the power of that battery as waste heat.
How would you do it then? Buck converter?
A buck converter would be more efficient, but for simplicity, and cost resistors work just fine
i mean he's dropping 1.5v sure it's losing 1/3 of the energy but a buck converter and support components to source 15ma from 4.1v to 2.6v at better than 66% efficiency likely costs more than adding 100% extra capacity.
what should really grind your teeth are old night lights with resistive droppers from 240v that short the bulb with an ldr to turn it off
I agree, we don't really have better alternatives. Thus the teeth grinding and impotent shaking of fist at the heavens.
Are you implying the other 3/4 of the power is being put to good use?
how would you install the charging port so that you can just charge it while the led is on?
hm, isn#t it a good idea to implement some kind of deep discharge prevention circuit that switches off once the voltage drops below a certain point?
The current drops very low with most LED strings when it reaches about 2.5V. That's the point a DW01 protection chip would kick in.
Thank you for that reminder about measuring voltage drop across the resistor you know the value of to determine Amp draw. I appreciate you sir. You are very easy to follow and learn from.
Excellent little project very useful indeed! Thanks Clive!🙏
You make it look so easy! I'm very glad I found your videos as I want to make a system to light up all my dioramas/doll houses.
I have been using the TP4065 modules for ages now. Make sure to get the ones with protection built in to make sure shorts are protected. Lately I have been trying to implement the version with adjustable output which works well, until you want to fix the pot. It always seems to shift a bit.
I’m surprised that basic and cheap multimeters don’t have a “current passing through resistor” mode where they check resistance and voltage drop and calculate the current, they could even re sample the resistance every few cycles/seconds, that way you get a live update if the resistance doesn’t change, with a slight hiccup every few seconds, but if testing through a variable resistor you still get an accurate calculation just slower
The wire strippers you use are the same type as my preferred ones, I think I acquired them from a careless engineer at my factory, these are basic but consistent when stripping many wires. Great tool from great careless engineer.
i kinda like manual range meters too because you know what range you are in. the autoranging meters sometimes take a minute to properly read it to figure out exactly which range you are in, whether you should add some zeros in your head or something, etc
Finally!
Pretty much did this with a 1000 Lumen solar motion light so I can manually charge it with a USB power bank or by plugging it into a socket
TP4056 + 18650 + 22 gauge wire + USB cable = Never having a dead solar light during winter ever again. I have the wire leading into the house so I don't have to go outside manually charge it.
I tend to melt insulation off cables instead of using strippers if my shitty iron is on. I have several irons on the bench, one always reserved for dirty work like melting insulation and plastic welding.
(I have good exterior-vented fume extraction and I can't even spell carsinojinns. )
I might have to switch over to the lead free stuff, I've no fume extraction setup and I can hardly do basic arrhythmic anymore.
@@Dlck.C.Normous The lead is not really in the fumes and the flux, that does vaporize, for lead-free solder is apparently more aggressive, so you might want to check more reliable sources than my YT comment before committing :P
That's because you sir are an idiot. Like vRobert
Great stuff. Quick question, does anyone know where I can buy these connectors? Thanks
It depends where you are in the world.
www.rapidonline.com/jyk-h2500-02-2-pole-crimp-housing-22-0905
@@bigclivedotcom Thank you.
12:07 The advantages of primary lithium cells are higher specific energy, higher energy density and lower self discharge.
As it happens, they also contain much more lithium than an equivalent capacity rechargeable cell.
@@johnrehwinkel7241 That's probably why a lot of products that need a battery with low self discharge like clocks tend to use alkaline batteries instead of the more expensive lithium primary ones.
Bloody Awesome, Rite Big Dude! Don't know if I have commented but as I've watched again thought I would!!!... TFS, GB :)
I always used a similar manual stripper to Clive's, except mine was much worse made in quality. Its jaws were straight and didn't connect very well and it didn't cut very well and it was a chore to adjust, and due to bad alignment, and visibility, the amount of covering removed tended to be pretty random.
I tried a few automatic ones at a store. They do tend to not work on thinner cables, but there are expensive ones that can. I watched a video by Andreas Spiess about wire strippers and chose the big clunky Chinese black plastic one, the FS-D3, ordered it for about 6€, it took about 3 months, and surprise, it actually works amazingly well for super thin wires and even for ribbon cables.
Speaking of thoes crimping tools, I have on occasion had to use a pair of pliers in their stead, and yes they are very much worth every last penny for the correct tool.
hot glue and shrink tube technique is on point! and very pleasing when the clear tubing is used.
definitely stealing this idea.
have you considered a phone camera lense kit for more control . . ?
I've tried some, but not found them useful so far.
You couldn't be more wrong about flagship phones not being able to focus on things at close range, it's one thing I absolutely love about my Samsung and previous Samsung is that I can zoom in to incredible levels on circuit boards I'm working with
you show the safe application in electrical circuits, it is nice to see the methods and explanation
of how things safely work together. plus the use of the connections for easy applications with universal
connections and various resistors. along with changing set up for the battery.nice video
I was fast forwarding and it landed on there are other strippers available, wtf did i miss quick rewind oh it was just wire strippers.
can we get a teardown of that pink calculator and link to the item for purchase?
It came from a Poundland in Edinburgh. I've not seen them anywhere else.
I'm just curious, is there a particular reason people seem to always use kapton tape on batteries and not something like hot glue?
Kapton tape is tough and heat resistant.
Bill’s Tool Store in the Glasga Barras is my go-to place for impossible to find stuff. Best visited often, buy on impulse and keep for when may be needed. I really must build another shed. Staff know a lot of stuff too. As usual Clive, both entertaining and educative. Shame a lot of teachers don’t understand the need for both.
I should have sent my AvE ruler to you for assembly i managed to fudge it right up somehow. Also what should I look for if I want one of those crimper things?
So what happens if you use that little male-male connector to plug two batteries into each other?
The cell voltages will gradually equalise with the current limited by the resistors.
What an amazing video! Loved the whole video!
So Clive ~ Moto G camera ~ but you also say you are going to change your phone ~ to what model please ???
Still using a Moto G. A Moto G7 power.
Nice tip on checking if it has protection, I have loads cell phone batteries and other lithium cells from all sorts of stuff and these little tips and hacks are always useful😊 by the way?? Do phone batteries that have protection have it marked in anyway on the out side??
There's no guarantee of protection even if they have the PCB contacts.
The only sure way of telling is to put a reasonable load on the cell and measure its voltage as it discharges, monitoring it all the while to see if it drops below about 2.8V. If it does, it's not protected and should be immediately charged back up to 3.6V (storage voltage) to prevent it from being damaged by the over-discharge. A protected cell should simply cut off the power once its voltage drops below 2.8-3V
thanks once again big clive. learned a thing or two as usual.