First off...Merry Christmas! A few ideas if you ever have the bell housing resealed.. You can have the bell housing cut and resurfaced . The bell housing can get overheated over time and lose it's mating surface shape. You can also have a "paper" gasket made for the bell housing which isn't a big deal to do. You can use the paper and silicone together
glad that silicone works! I used Titan oil stop leak on the internal silicone seals. Otherwise the engine would all have to be taken apart - super expensive labor cost. That stuff worked - a miracle to fix a $30 part (with $1000 in labor cost). haha. thanks
From what I recall, the manufacturer drilled (or cast) oil passages that intersected with threaded holes, in the block. That's why the manuals (at least at the time) referred to using 'special washers'....copper I think, to be used with those certain fasteners. Of course, you couldn't get the 'special washers', so everyone used standard washers, and hence....oil leak. Thanks for the videos Mr. Robertson....Merry Christmas
Where will these oil passages be at that intersect with the threads...are you talking about the bell housing?? And where can I find these copper washers?
@@quewat3676 You will have to do a search online to see what a bell housing is, and copper washers, well, what don't you understand? They are washers made from copper. Buy them at parts stores, and buy them in the size you need.
@@fizixx I know what a bell housing is..and also a copper washers looks like....I thought that these where some sort of copper washers for the Detroit s60
What kind JB weld? I need to glue between bell housing and engine block, I’m also thinking to glue front housing just preventive before it starts to leak, I know it will start leaking sooner or later
Silicone, tie wire, and duct tape is all I could afford growing up. And the only tools I had was a hammer, adjustable wrench and a couple of bent screw drivers. That's what separates the men from the boys.
Your "couple of bent screwdrivers" reminded me of a story that I hope no one minds me repeating. While my wife and I were dating, I wanted to impress my future father-in-law by changing the door handle on my future wife's car. He had some "parts cars" in his yard. So, I was looking for a drill motor, a drill, then an extension cord, so I could drill out the rivets to get the handle. He heard me rummaging around, sighed, and walked out. "what's he doing?" I wondered. I followed him. He was at the parts car with a broken screwdriver and a hammer. he knocked the rivet heads off, pulled the handle off, and handed it to me. That man educated me without saying a word. He did the most with the least as anyone.
On my 12.7 I have a leak from the rear of the engine. It’s the head gasket. I’ve tried to slow it down with JB weld but haven’t been able to stop it. It doesn’t leak very much when it’s running but it’ll leak maybe a couple ounces overnight when it’s shut down. Overall I go through a gallon a week.
@@makeitpay8241 on the back. I cleaned the area with brake clean and a wire brush and let it idle for a while. It was getting wet from the head gasket down. That’s the worst leak. Cannot complain, it’s got 830k since last rebuild. I think I can make it another year or two till the next one.
@@Davefromwisconsin are you sure that’s not a rear main seal that your taking about. Usually they leak only when not running. And the head leaks when running
I gotta 1.3M DD12.7, OTR truck. When I got it didn't leak. It had standard oil in it. I changed to Shell Syndthetic and drove it about 25 to 50k miles and saw sepage around the head towards the front. Then a shop unfamiliar with the truck told me I had a rear main seal leaking. Is there a oil additive that will help seal that seal. There doesn't seem to be much oil loss but it seeps out towards & on to the bottom of the pan. The dip stick shows dn about .5 gal in 10k miles. Do I just stop the leaking around the bellhousing with the permatex. I have use the peramtex on the differentials & it worked just fine. Or should I just change back to the standard oil & will that fix it? Thanks for the vid
hi there , can you update on your inframe work on this truck , did it work ok ? how many miles did you made since a rebuild , I know it was 7 years back , do you have to add any coolant now and then ? and hows the oil consumption ? i own a third d 60 (12.7 non egr) previous one i run for 1.8 miles with just head gasket work(until 1.5 i did not had to add any oil between changes - 15k) -sold it still runs , now i have a glider with 750k miles and it needs inframe (coolant in cylinder nr 6 -hydro locked after overnight parking , head was checked- not sure what happened.
I notice you have a non waste gated turbo on your 12.7 did you have a custom tune for it i tried to but one on had the vpod taken off but for some reason felt like i was having a hard time spooling it up
A tune is needed to remove the vpod, and the fuel tables need to be changed. I do them very regularly. If someone reputable had done the tuning (not pdi or Pittsburgh power; there really are not many good tuner in my opinion.), and if you're not happy with the spool. The first place that would look would be exhaust manifold leaks, and boost leaks.
I'll have to make a video on the boost leak testers that I make. You clamp them to the boost elbow in place of the turbo, and you charge the system from the turbo connection point to the head at the intake manifold. This allows you to test all the boots, the air to air, the air compressor feed line and the intake manifold gaskets.
Also, upon review that appears possibly be a Garrett TMF55. Some of the older engines like some TKs cam factory with a TMF55. The TMF55 is very similar to a Borg Warner 1702 in flow.
@@ThatFenix I'm real interested in seeing that. All I've ever seen is pressure tested to rubber boot before intake. How do you pressure test intake manifold without losing pressure thru open intake valves? Are you taking intake mabifold off? Maybe I'm not understanding correctly, a video would be great, thanks Jonathan
Hi there.quick question .my detroit series 60 12.7 leaking oil from whip hole liner .any suggestions before i go for rebuild. Truck is running perfect. Merry Christmas.
I'm not sure where you say it is leaking, if you say it's a weep hole on the starter side in the middle of the block then it's not leaking oil but antifreeze and it's harmless unless it's leaking a lot.
All I can say is I don't think that is possible. I'm not a truck mechanic, never was but I was a car mechanic back in the '80s and early '90s and have been doing all of my own repairs for over 45 years and I do know a lot more than the average "DIYer" or owner operator. Here's a link to a direct look at the weep hole and exactly what it is there for. The weep hole part starts at 7: 44 ua-cam.com/video/brUDb1g4mo4/v-deo.html but if you are smart you will watch the whole video without skipping, even better watch the whole series on the in frame overhaul it is about 3 hours although not all info is perfect it is pretty close.
@57bagre I watch your videos all the time but I missed this one.well u teach me something good today and I appreciate you. Even that leak was looking like oil now I'm 100 percent sure is antifreeze.thanks a lot
@@GordonRobertsonDIY well sir it is on these new style engines, air compressor, fuel lift pump and the power steering pump are all stacked inline together going to be a chore for sure.
@@GordonRobertsonDIY LOL, my brain and my fingers were not communicating. The Right Stuff from Permatex not Great Stuff! Spray foam would be really interesting!
Sir Gordon, you just saved me thousands of dollars in labor cost. Keep up the great videos.
I come back from visiting my parents to find a couple of videos. I hope you had a good Christmas. Thanks for all the videos.
Yeah, I got a number of jobs recorded and saved in the pc but no time for editing, now with the holidays I can clean up some of these.
First off...Merry Christmas! A few ideas if you ever have the bell housing resealed.. You can have the bell housing cut and resurfaced . The bell housing can get overheated over time and lose it's mating surface shape. You can also have a "paper" gasket made for the bell housing which isn't a big deal to do. You can use the paper and silicone together
Thank you Darek and Merry Christmas to you too.
Thank you master👍
really enjoyed this ; thank you Mr Robertson 👊🏼
Thanks for watching.
Excellent advice Thank you Gordon
Merry Christmas
Thank you and Merry Christmas to you too
glad that silicone works! I used Titan oil stop leak on the internal silicone seals. Otherwise the engine would all have to be taken apart - super expensive labor cost. That stuff worked - a miracle to fix a $30 part (with $1000 in labor cost). haha. thanks
Love the videos and how you share your knowledge. Thank you sir, just subscribed
From what I recall, the manufacturer drilled (or cast) oil passages that intersected with threaded holes, in the block. That's why the manuals (at least at the time) referred to using 'special washers'....copper I think, to be used with those certain fasteners. Of course, you couldn't get the 'special washers', so everyone used standard washers, and hence....oil leak. Thanks for the videos Mr. Robertson....Merry Christmas
Thank you and Merry Christmas to you too
Where will these oil passages be at that intersect with the threads...are you talking about the bell housing??
And where can I find these copper washers?
Where can I find these copper washers?
@@quewat3676 You will have to do a search online to see what a bell housing is, and copper washers, well, what don't you understand? They are washers made from copper. Buy them at parts stores, and buy them in the size you need.
@@fizixx
I know what a bell housing is..and also a copper washers looks like....I thought that these where some sort of copper washers for the Detroit s60
Thanks for the video sir. And Marry Christmas and a happy new year !
Stay safe on the road driver!
Thank you and Merry Christmas to you too
Merry Christmas dear Mr. Robertson. I wish you health and happiness 😊
Thank you sir and same to you!
Good video and you are so right I enjoy the video Merry Christmas 💖💖💖
I’m a Detroit girl myself too
Thank you and Merry Christmas to you too
Great video!
Thanks Bill.
Happy holiday sir.Good to see you
Thank you and Merry Christmas to you too
Merry Christmas Gordon!
Thank you and Merry Christmas to you too
Jb weld will be a stonger seal than silicone. And jb weld can be removed with a sanding grinder when u need to rebuild the motor.
What kind JB weld? I need to glue between bell housing and engine block, I’m also thinking to glue front housing just preventive before it starts to leak, I know it will start leaking sooner or later
Great advice 😊🙏👍
Thanks for watching.
Silicone, tie wire, and duct tape is all I could afford growing up. And the only tools I had was a hammer, adjustable wrench and a couple of bent screw drivers. That's what separates the men from the boys.
Your "couple of bent screwdrivers" reminded me of a story that I hope no one minds me repeating.
While my wife and I were dating, I wanted to impress my future father-in-law by changing the door handle on my future wife's car. He had some "parts cars" in his yard. So, I was looking for a drill motor, a drill, then an extension cord, so I could drill out the rivets to get the handle. He heard me rummaging around, sighed, and walked out. "what's he doing?" I wondered. I followed him. He was at the parts car with a broken screwdriver and a hammer. he knocked the rivet heads off, pulled the handle off, and handed it to me. That man educated me without saying a word. He did the most with the least as anyone.
I always wondered how silicone would work for the rear structure instead of the anirobic sealer.
Very nice 👌
On my 12.7 I have a leak from the rear of the engine. It’s the head gasket. I’ve tried to slow it down with JB weld but haven’t been able to stop it. It doesn’t leak very much when it’s running but it’ll leak maybe a couple ounces overnight when it’s shut down. Overall I go through a gallon a week.
on the back of the engine or on the side near the back?
@@makeitpay8241 on the back. I cleaned the area with brake clean and a wire brush and let it idle for a while. It was getting wet from the head gasket down. That’s the worst leak. Cannot complain, it’s got 830k since last rebuild. I think I can make it another year or two till the next one.
@@Davefromwisconsin are you sure that’s not a rear main seal that your taking about. Usually they leak only when not running. And the head leaks when running
@@scottbulach I’m 100 percent sure it’s the head gasket. The clutch housing is dry.
You tried jb, have you tried the Ultra sealer? Was wondering because mine has spring a nasty leak in the same spot.
Sir which silicon u use please let me know
Merry Christmas Sir
Thank you and Merry Christmas to you too
I gotta 1.3M DD12.7, OTR truck.
When I got it didn't leak. It had standard oil in it. I changed to Shell Syndthetic and drove it about 25 to 50k miles and saw sepage around the head towards the front. Then a shop unfamiliar with the truck told me I had a rear main seal leaking.
Is there a oil additive that will help seal that seal. There doesn't seem to be much oil loss but it seeps out towards & on to the bottom of the pan. The dip stick shows dn about .5 gal in 10k miles.
Do I just stop the leaking around the bellhousing with the permatex.
I have use the peramtex on the differentials & it worked just fine.
Or should I just change back to the standard oil & will that fix it?
Thanks for the vid
Good video!!!
G what did you use to clean off the grease?
Engine degreaser and pressure washer and then dry with compressed air and clean with brake cleaner.
Very helpful!
Thank you.
hi there , can you update on your inframe work on this truck , did it work ok ? how many miles did you made since a rebuild , I know it was 7 years back , do you have to add any coolant now and then ? and hows the oil consumption ? i own a third d 60 (12.7 non egr) previous one i run for 1.8 miles with just head gasket work(until 1.5 i did not had to add any oil between changes - 15k) -sold it still runs , now i have a glider with 750k miles and it needs inframe (coolant in cylinder nr 6 -hydro locked after overnight parking , head was checked- not sure what happened.
The in frame job is still good but I did have a timing gear issue but I had the dealer do that this past summer.
@@GordonRobertsonDIYhow much did that run you my friend? And is it a common issue?
Hey Mr Gordon I live in St Louis do you know any head gasket machine shop around thanks in advance I have detroit 14l
Engine rebuilders, North 9th street
@@GordonRobertsonDIY Thank you Mr Gordon 🙏
I notice you have a non waste gated turbo on your 12.7 did you have a custom tune for it i tried to but one on had the vpod taken off but for some reason felt like i was having a hard time spooling it up
A tune is needed to remove the vpod, and the fuel tables need to be changed. I do them very regularly. If someone reputable had done the tuning (not pdi or Pittsburgh power; there really are not many good tuner in my opinion.), and if you're not happy with the spool. The first place that would look would be exhaust manifold leaks, and boost leaks.
I'll have to make a video on the boost leak testers that I make. You clamp them to the boost elbow in place of the turbo, and you charge the system from the turbo connection point to the head at the intake manifold. This allows you to test all the boots, the air to air, the air compressor feed line and the intake manifold gaskets.
Also, upon review that appears possibly be a Garrett TMF55. Some of the older engines like some TKs cam factory with a TMF55. The TMF55 is very similar to a Borg Warner 1702 in flow.
@@ThatFenix I'm real interested in seeing that. All I've ever seen is pressure tested to rubber boot before intake. How do you pressure test intake manifold without losing pressure thru open intake valves? Are you taking intake mabifold off? Maybe I'm not understanding correctly, a video would be great, thanks Jonathan
Hi there.quick question .my detroit series 60 12.7 leaking oil from whip hole liner .any suggestions before i go for rebuild. Truck is running perfect. Merry Christmas.
I'm not sure where you say it is leaking, if you say it's a weep hole on the starter side in the middle of the block then it's not leaking oil but antifreeze and it's harmless unless it's leaking a lot.
@57bagre it's weep hole on the side of the starter and isn't antifreeze is oil idkn how is this possible
All I can say is I don't think that is possible. I'm not a truck mechanic, never was but I was a car mechanic back in the '80s and early '90s and have been doing all of my own repairs for over 45 years and I do know a lot more than the average "DIYer" or owner operator. Here's a link to a direct look at the weep hole and exactly what it is there for. The weep hole part starts at 7: 44
ua-cam.com/video/brUDb1g4mo4/v-deo.html
but if you are smart you will watch the whole video without skipping, even better watch the whole series on the in frame overhaul it is about 3 hours although not all info is perfect it is pretty close.
@57bagre I watch your videos all the time but I missed this one.well u teach me something good today and I appreciate you. Even that leak was looking like oil now I'm 100 percent sure is antifreeze.thanks a lot
Glad I could help.
Have you ever seen a power steering pump suck oil out of engine into the Reservoir.?
No, that's not possible. Thanks for watching.
@@GordonRobertsonDIY well sir it is on these new style engines, air compressor, fuel lift pump and the power steering pump are all stacked inline together going to be a chore for sure.
For most things I use The Right Stuff for the things that cannot leak I use LocTite SI. Have a great Christmas Gord!
Thank you and Merry Christmas to you too. I use Great Stuff on houses but not on cars as of yet, maybe to fill a rust hole, I don't know.
@@GordonRobertsonDIY LOL, my brain and my fingers were not communicating. The Right Stuff from Permatex not Great Stuff! Spray foam would be really interesting!
I know the feeling, How well I know!