Stu. Some of your repliers really seem to know what they’re talking about. Good to open up to outside suggestions. You need a secretary to edit out some to allow you time to work and sleep. Thanks for the education. Most of us don’t know anything about your subject matter so we love your videos.
Here’s to the Green Machine, for all her faithful years of service. She was a great boat. But the steel trawler will be so much better in so many ways!
Sorry to see the green machine go mate! She's been a charismatic work horse. I can see that you definitely don't need 2 project boats though! The new boat will cater to your needs far more than the green machine could.
Thanks Tom, yeah, an inflatable tender that can be alongside the trawler without scratching in the new paint job is definitely going to cut down on my stress. ;)
You could use a break. Working on your boat is not a easy chore. I await news from the machine shop on the Detroit Diesel. There are still millions of those engines operating in the world. You live in a beautiful part of the planet. Enjoy every day.
Great Channel Stu! My suggestion to do with the green machine is: Cut the boat in half,(most of the rot is in the back) and use the bow half to make a river jet boat.(tinney bashing) Next project after this one!
Admiration goes out to my friend, Me just an owner of a 60 foot narrowboat in the uk on the canals but certainly picked up some tips from you thank dangar Regards Old Git on the Cut x
Stu, I've just finished watching all your videos....took a long time to catch up all tbe way up with your current efforts. I want to thank you for your channel. I started out knowing virtually nothing about any kind of engine, and I now know a hell of a lot more that I ever did...and gaining a new level of respect for mechanics. Loving your trawler project.
A plumbers tip for your seacock valve. Have your wrench as you had it in the video trying to unscrewing the gate off. Put pressure on it trying to take it off and as your doing that take a ballpeen hammer and tap where the threaded gate goes onto the body rapidly but not really hard. Keep the pressure on and rap it till it breaks loose I've done this on 100 year old valves (not on boats) with 100 percent success. This goes with the mechanics belief that most mechanical problems are solved with a ballpeen hammer.
Enjoy the break Stu. For a Perentie road trip @ 100-110km/h, I would recommend some hearing protection. Assuming no mods, she will be noisy at highway speeds (but you already know this from the M1/F3 no doubt). I used to use noise cancelling headphones. Takes the edge off the engine/road/canopy noise, can listen to music/podcasts on phone. Plus you can still hear high frequency environment noise (eg. horns, sirens ... tyre squeal). Would be awesome to see you drop in on a Brupeg vid. Safe travel.
all electric should be in a sealed cabinet because you having them in the engine room .and battery's in a vented box because of acid fumes on flammable gases which well corrode your electrics and other metal part. always expect the worst case scenario when it comes to mix electric water gases and fuels ( DON"T ) this is a practice i was taught and used over the 40 odd year boat building. great job you are doing too
Hey stu, I’m not a wooden boat builder but I believe the idea behind steaming wood into a different shape relies more on the heat being applied to the wood and nothing to do with the water. I think you might be making a mistake by just wetting the wood with boiling water. You need to apply force to the wood while it’s hot and the resins within the fibres are made malleable, as soon as it cools the timber will retain its new shape. I enjoy your vids, good progress so far, 👍👍
I tried to steam some wood as a kid so I just held the button down on the jug and the lid melted, then dad belted the crap out of me.. I see you way works much better
RIP Green machine. You will be missed. In fact, it's what caught my attention on the first video I watched on this channel. I found you and your channel looking for tips and tricks boating and such.
Good idea. Get rid of the green machine for something ya can bring on board the troller and go back and forth between home and the troller. It would turn into a giant pain to have to drag that big of a boat around behind ya, plus the green machine has seen better days. There's only so much you can patch and fix before the whole vessel becomes one big floating unreliable patch.
Yes, you do eventually start fighting a losing battle with a boat that needs too much patching, plus I know it would knock against the hull no matter how careful I am and chip all the paintwork on the trawler.
I would do the battery shelf because it would look neater, and when you go to run the wires you can neatly cable tie them to the board before they go where they have to go. Plus you have a shelf where you could mount more electrical things like distribution blocks to save room on the electrical boards.. I'd also run at least 4 gauge wire up to the pilot house as this will give you plenty of head room for further electrical goodies you'll likely add on in the future.
I absolutely recommend the battery tray have at least a 1 inch lip all the way around it. The last thing you want is acid eating into the steel hull you have put so much work into. Cut some strips, glue and screw them around the perimeter with 5300. Hit it with a router and a round over bit, and you will have an awesome battery tray.
Enjoy your break. Sorry about the Green Machine. She served her purpose well. The inflatable tender is a good idea. Got my Dangar Marine T-shirt last week. Sporting it here in middle Tennessee. Cheers mate.
Maybe put only one board in engine room and hook up what you need there ? Run maybe a 8 ga. Gauge wire to your wheel house console where your steering is. a battery bank there with an isolator ( or better yet 2 alternators )so you don't kill your engine battery. Put your solar panel controller there as well. Could save lots of money on wire . That's kind of how we did it on our boats anyhow. Maybe put second panel in lazarette if you want to put a small generator in future.
Perfect dingy is a Boston Whaler squall. 9 feet or 3 meters. Unsinkable, seaworthy, sails too. Can handle I believe a five horse power outboard. I used mine to sail, haul gear, pull lobster traps. Self bailing. Don’t know if you can find one down there used but awesome dingy. We’ve had a family of four in it so almost 700 pounds.
Farewell good and faithful servant. It was a honour to ride aboard you GM. Enjoy the break Stu and take plenty of Bundy... I would buy green machine but my wife would kill me... another 50 year old hull 😞👨✈️
Of all my subscriptions yours is the one I look forward to the most Stu ,really enjoy your trials tribulations and successful moments in equal measure!....enjoy your break you deserve it mate .regards from an old Pommy b.
use the old wet exhaust hole since its already there for venting the engine room /battery compartment. just put a blower in it and a flapper. draw up your wiring schematic and get the parts so you can lay them out on the boards. looking good.
ethan harris I can certainly relate however, I didn’t think I would ever say this but I really kind enjoy going to work and I don’t dread Mondays anymore,
Hi Stu, If you have enough rubbing strip to start from the front and work back to an area with less bend would be ideal. Make your miter joint in the less bend area so the pressure of the mounting holds the joint together, some water proof epoxy will be good also and clamp it with 2 different pieces of angle; one from back other from top to squeeze it together square until it sets. Think about your electrics as a system, DC/AC power buss (batteries/Generator), shore power, grounding buss and neutral buss; engine controls, navigation lighting zones, marine instruments/radio (isolate from electrical noise) Accessory power USB, plug-in items everyday convenience, 12v lighting and or full power lighting, solar/wind charging; grounding to Sea. All items/panels need to be grounded. Different boat hull metals and valves/through hulls need to be bonded to mitigate electrolysis/galvanics . Each panel should be grounded to every location so your reference does not change from any location in the ship. Figure out a color code system, so when you are into it for troubleshooting and servicing it is visually easy to follow. Then plan your layouts, so say you do not want to go to engine bay to reset a breaker for nav lights, or to install your radar or loranz, depth sounder instruments. BTW the old electrics on the ship might be part of the reason your different metal valves and components are so difficult to take apart (electrolysis/galvanics) welding the air-gap of the threads together. I did not remember seeing any wires attached to any joints or couplings in your tear-down videos. Bite the bullet if you do not have one and get a commercial wire labeller. Investigate Pre-assembled wiring/switch/circuit breaker panels as they may be more cost effective, dollar and time-wise; according to boat builder electricians reviews in blogs. www.marinesurvey.com/yacht/ElectricalSystems.htm www.westmarine.com/WestAdvisor/Marine-Grounding-Systems
Always look forward to watching on my Sunday mornings. I do wish these were longer episodes but I enjoy them all the same. Also HDPE (High Density Polyethylene) is a great material to have on hand for lots of different projects.
Another good movie as usual Stu. We know that batteries last longer when they're cool and charged? The engine room is quite hot and not the best place. I have 5 x 8yr old AGMs still doing well in a seperate compartment. They're connected to a Victron charger and I dont use shore power; just solar. This been good value for me.
With those stuck gate valve tops, don't use the bench vice to try to hold the valve, you might find if you get a suitable small tree, stump or other strong fixed object and put a length of chain around it, then the chain around the gate valve body you can put the pipe wrench on it with a torque multiplying pipe on the handle and it may come loose.
Hi Stu, sad news about Big Green, maybe we could have a viking send-off for his journey to Valhalla? Road trip sounds good. Stay safe and keep up the good work. 👍
While I am addicted to this series and could watch way more of it, a break sounds like a good thing for you. Always brings out new ideas when you take a few steps back for a few days.
Hey Stu, I was thinking that taking a paint pen and putting the date on some of the things that you have torn down and rebuilt, could help you later on down the road. If it doesn't it is still fun to see that stuff.
Enjoy your break,Cannot wait for the "Electics" video as marine electrics was my forte before I moved on to "Marine Electronics" for over 30 years so when you get to the "electronics phase" feel free to pick my brains.
I am definitly not a grease priest the one thing I am a expert in, is making fuses pop. Only thing I can think off is installing extra cabels and fuses so that if you want to upgrade electrical systems, you can do it easily (and ofcourse inistalling extra powersockets). Anyway I hope you have a nice roadtrip :D
Stu wants an inflatable. I know RIBs will have better sea keeping capability, but a 4m on the back of the trawler will kill any available space. Long term looking for something made with hypalon is the way to go. PVC in Aussie temperatures will have shorter lifespan.
If you are thinking of a new outboard for your new dinghy, I suggest you look at the littlest Honda. I have been considering one of these as an auxiliary for my boats. Only 30 lbs @ 2.3hp. 4 stroke, air cooled( no water pump to worry about). Been watching videos about this motor and I have to say I'm impressed. Your new inflatable is rated for up to 5hp. An engine that size will go faster and have other features you might like but it will weigh twice as much and cost a good deal more. Just a thought, you may already have other plans. Cheers mate, keep up the great videos.
Stu - Your videos are great and I look forward to seeing them every week. I know you’re on a budget but please get and wear some safety glasses. I lost the vision in one eye and don’t want the same fate for you. Can’t wait until you’re done.
You are doing everything so top notch, why would you stop at 40 year old wiring? Copper can look good and it is not. Peace of mind, is priceless. Keep up the good work.
Oh by the way your show is great, I cannot wait for the next episode. Who knew that a man from Aus with a rusty old bucket was such great entertainment.
Scrape the hull and fix the split by brazing an aluminum patch over it. I know that it will flex, but the patch can be longer to fix between hull braces. Either that or recycle the boat. Sinking it makes a navigational hazard.
Hi Stu, I reckon the green machine engine is worth a bit and the trailer mate, but I think the boat will be soon be coke cans. Boats looking real good, its a lot of work on your own Stu and every now and then you'll be over it all. Better to take a break I think, recharge, regroup, get the lantern shining bright again and remember what your doing it for. Water tight or waterproof electric circuit breaker boxes are the way ahead mate, will protect all your wiring and save you a fortune and time in the long run. Not expensive and nice n neat, trust me. Enjoy yer road trip to Brupeg
Green Machine had a great long life thanks to your efforts. Stumbled upon your video, Is it a bad idea to buy an old steel boat. Been hooked ever since. I have no doubt lots of your information dealing with boats and harsh Marine environment will save lives.
Yeah taking a bit of time away from the project to look at other stuff is a good idea that way you don't get burnt out stew. What most people don't understand with aluminum boats you have metal sitting in an electrolyte and overtime the aluminum gets brittle and you're both cracked right where I figured it would cuz it seems to be an ongoing problem on just about every aluminum boat made.
Right on... decisions made, perspective sharpened on ward to new discoveries... reviewing others work always gives one the third eye, to see the possibilities... Cheers... Lovely work, always have a viewing crowd aboard to help watch me work....
I don't know if the shelf is still an issue. I doubt it is. But I know here in the US there's this PVC like trim you can get from the home improvement store. It's primarily made for trimming out bathrooms. It's mold and rot resistant and all that good stuff. You could grab a small piece of that and make a little lip on the shelf with that. Guess I'll find out in the rest of the series if it's ever solved. Lol.
Read up regarding powering the inflatable tender , try electric , you can get quite a lot of sea miles with an electric powered outboard , no mucking around with mixing gas and oil . Worth thinking about , cheers from NZ.
@@DangarMarine I`ve never owned one , but they are light as , which will make it perfect for lifting the inflatable onto the launch and at the boat ramp.
I dig your vids man...I admire your diligence. It is past my abilities AND dedication. I look forward to how that old girl progresses. I sure do love to see the old good girls brought back.. She was not near dead when you got her only sad, sore used and beat.. she is looking perky now tho She is in good hands..
Stu, using that poly board for the batteries will work well. We have a similar product here in the states called StarBoard. I use it to make different brackets, shelves, supports in boats all the time. Works great.
I am a bit conserned with your choice of electric panel location. The engine room is a nasty location. Lots of mixed fumes to encourage corosion and tight quarters to be serviceing breakers and electric connections. I reccomend having your electric panel in the wheelhouse. If any electrical device goes out it offers quick and easy access. No corrosive fumes will be present and should you be underway it would be easier to be aware of your boat's surroundings and more comfortable to work. You're doing a fine job and moving along quickly. Good timing for a break, too.
There will be a breaker panel in the wheelhouse, but there are certain components that must be mounted close to the batteries, that is what this board is for.
Congratulations for your great job master! I used to have a inflateble from aliexpress. It was a 10,5 feet inflateble rated for 15 hp. With muy old 1956 Johnson 15 that boat simply flyes over water, but at its almost 10 years I wasnt able to keep it floating saftely. That's why i purchased a almost destroyed aluminum flat bottom to repair. Ironicly, in ten yeara the inflateble never sinks and in just 3 days a storm sinks the aluminum boat (and that is why flat bottom boats are not best for sea..... I should have imagine that). Any way, with this boat maybe you can teach us how to take good care of a inflateble so it can last as much as it can. Congratulations again!
Thank you for your videos... I love watching it... A lot of knowledge for me... But in malaysia, there is almost no steel trawlers except for offshore work company... Btw.. A lot of malaysian used fiberglass or wooden boat for fishing & other activites even deep sea fisherman... Looking forward for next video... 👍ups from Malaysia
The green machine is a de Havilland isn't it Stu? A bit of history for sale there. Geoffrey De Havilland, as many may know designed the wooden wonder. The Mosquito. A multi-role plane fitted with twin Merlins that many would argue was the best plane of WW2
I would consider a split electrical system. Main for running boat only. ( necessity systems to run the boat ) second system for auxiliary ( cab lights,etc. non necessity systems ) so if you ever run into a power issue bad battery(s) alternator, wiring issue you can direct all power to running the boat.
Stu, great vid as always, Mabey worth getting a couple of welding bungs and bung the filler and the vent and pressure test the fuel tank with a few psi of air and some soapy water just would save any mess if there was a small leak and save ou having to pump the diesel out again
Thank you for sharing the progress this week. I must have missed a video because it looks like you hav already painted some of the engine bay walls. Looking good all the way around.
Hey Mate you should replace that power cable running to your electrics. It can still be used for something on shore but I wouldn't trust it long term on the boat. Try and eliminate as much old wire as you can. It introduces too many variables and fault points. One other thing test that board your thinking about mounting the electrics to for spark flammability open flame flammability and heat flammability. You might want to also make sure it doesn't react to diesel fuel or become more easily flammable under those conditions with diesel on it. You don't want to find out later ten miles off shore that it catches really easily. Cheers Mate!
To be to standard, the batteries should be in a container/box that can contain acid in the event of a case spliting or worse. As always engoyinyg your videos, safe travels.
@@rigdigwus On a boat like an aircraft, upside down is an option. Batteries off gas hydrogen when charging if you dont use sealed recombinant electolyte batteries. This needs to be vented to prevent explosions. Any seawater round the battery and you get chlorine gas on one terminal and caustic soda on the other so keeping them dry is also a priority. I wouldn't put electrics round the engine that dont need to be round the engine for these reasons. I would put a sealed breaker panel near the console with a minimal package where flooding may happen. A SLA backup battery for radios etc in a separate box may be a good option too.
@@rigdigwus IT is a requirement in boats for a reason, Ive seen cracked cases, cases that have blown the top off and split down the sides dropping the entire contents of an N200 into the batttery box, corroded terminals, have you ever seen an older car without a corroded steel battery tray? even if the battery is intact, now think about that happening in a boat hull....Nobody has to do anything I reccomend but if you want a safe and legal system electrically
@@allangibson8494 Good points, All the heavy DC should stay in the engine room to keep the cable runs as short as possible, exept on petrol inboard boats for other reasons . Survey vessels do have a radio battery in the bridge as a requirement.
@@Nick75au1 A lot depends on your paranoia level too. Having been involved in oil rig systems design, a DC plastic dip or heat shrink insulated buss bar (2" by 1/4") would be preferred over cable and hull negative returns would be avoided totally. All penetrations through bulkheads should be via pressure tight IP68 cable glands. Electrical boxes should be IP68 minimum and IP69K if possible. The next step up would be fitting the engine with dual starters, one electric and one hand cranked spring recoil starter (this is done on marine lifeboats (and the oil rig fire pumps, emergency generators and air compressors (hand starting a 27 litre diesel engine is a really good workout (the usual starters were an air starter on the electrical generator and an electric starter on the air compressor)). Depends on how much water in the boat you want to be able to handle and how far you are willing to swim....
For the Rib, consider spending more money and get one made of Hypalon. The PVC ones won't last. Hypalon may last 4 times longer. The UV and sun kill the PVC fast. Buy cheap pay twice.
Noooo I love the green machine!! I also like the plan to get a tender. I have a 2009 5hp 2stroke mercury hardly ever been used. if you want to put it on the tender
I had a 21' cuddy cabin boat with a v6 engine and outdrive. The builder put the fuel tank all the way back in the port stern corner and the batteries in the starboard stern corner. This had all the weight in the last 3' of the boat. It jumped out of the water and on plane great but if you hit swells over 8" (yes, 8 inches!) the boat pounded enough to beat your fillings out. So, think about your weight distribution when placing your batteries and the electrics. As you are finding out it is better to work with the most curved part of bending wood first and working towards the straighter area and not the other way. Enjoy your time away and above all have fun. :)
Had an old aluminum hull too, multiple welds, cracks next to the old welds, never ending pain in the bum. Own a polycraft hull now and love it. Time to sell the old girl for what you need right now.btw polycraft tuff tenders are pretty awesome ;)
@@adammcgeorge3538 With me it's just the association, I think rotational molded poly boats are probably viable to a price point and size but then alloy & fibreglass boats are more widely accepted with the trailer boat crowd and cost the same, or less. Me, I'm all for W.A aluminium plate boats along the Jackman naval architect design's, from 5mtr and larger are the go, great sea legs on the chop & waves on fresh or salt water.
On my truck the battery has a clamp style fastener holding onto the bottom lip of the battery. I like that idea with a strap over the top for my boat remodel. If the strap fails I have that lip fastener.
Just a quick observation when you have a gasket that is holding fluids,I was always taught start at the bottom and work up either side to side to the top ,this means any distortion in the gasket will be above the opening
Hi , I would of suggested that any join in the rubbing strip should be located at : the point of least impact The point of least curvature. it is very hard to secure the rubbing strip join where it is being bent the most. Also the three steel square tubes sticking out of the bulkhead to support the batteries may be a bit undersized, when you consider pounding at sea. The shelf should be braced under the shelf to strengthen it. cheers otherwise and as always great video.
The shot of the pelican flying away was ART
Stu. Some of your repliers really seem to know what they’re talking about. Good to open up to outside suggestions. You need a secretary to edit out some to allow you time to work and sleep. Thanks for the education. Most of us don’t know anything about your subject matter so we love your videos.
Thanks Peter, definitely lots of good suggestions here.
Here’s to the Green Machine, for all her faithful years of service. She was a great boat. But the steel trawler will be so much better in so many ways!
Thanks Jack, she was a great boat. :(
You may not need the muffler pipe, anymore, but an aft torpedo tube would sure be handy against pirates or land developers coming to the island.
It is an excellent poiint you mkate. ;)
Sorry to see the green machine go mate! She's been a charismatic work horse. I can see that you definitely don't need 2 project boats though! The new boat will cater to your needs far more than the green machine could.
Thanks Tom, yeah, an inflatable tender that can be alongside the trawler without scratching in the new paint job is definitely going to cut down on my stress. ;)
You could use a break. Working on your boat is not a easy chore. I await news from the machine shop on the Detroit Diesel. There are still millions of those engines operating in the world.
You live in a beautiful part of the planet. Enjoy every day.
Great Channel Stu!
My suggestion to do with the green machine is: Cut the boat in half,(most of the rot is in the back) and use the bow half to make a river jet boat.(tinney bashing) Next project after this one!
Nice idea!
I feel like we need a video of a funeral for the Green Machine with Amazing Grace being played on the bagpipes in the video.
A Viking funeral!
Your Amazing Grace comment made me laugh. The Green Machine was good transportation for a while. Might as well give it an honorable send-off!
Admiration goes out to my friend, Me just an owner of a 60 foot narrowboat in the uk on the canals but certainly picked up some tips from you thank dangar
Regards Old Git on the Cut x
Thanks mate. I'd love to have a narrow boat on the canals for a couple of years on day. :)
Stu, I've just finished watching all your videos....took a long time to catch up all tbe way up with your current efforts. I want to thank you for your channel. I started out knowing virtually nothing about any kind of engine, and I now know a hell of a lot more that I ever did...and gaining a new level of respect for mechanics. Loving your trawler project.
Thanks mate, glad you enjoyed the vids. :)
A plumbers tip for your seacock valve. Have your wrench as you had it in the video trying to unscrewing the gate off. Put pressure on it trying to take it off and as your doing that take a ballpeen hammer and tap where the threaded gate goes onto the body rapidly but not really hard. Keep the pressure on and rap it till it breaks loose I've done this on 100 year old valves (not on boats) with 100 percent success. This goes with the mechanics belief that most mechanical problems are solved with a ballpeen hammer.
Thanks mate, I'll give that a try.
@@DangarMarine Hope it works on a seacock. Different set of rules with salt water.
Enjoy the break Stu. For a Perentie road trip @ 100-110km/h, I would recommend some hearing protection. Assuming no mods, she will be noisy at highway speeds (but you already know this from the M1/F3 no doubt). I used to use noise cancelling headphones. Takes the edge off the engine/road/canopy noise, can listen to music/podcasts on phone. Plus you can still hear high frequency environment noise (eg. horns, sirens ... tyre squeal). Would be awesome to see you drop in on a Brupeg vid. Safe travel.
Yes, have done a few several thousand km trips in it. Sure can get noisy!
Oh I get it when it comes to taking breaks from a project. Good for you Stu.
I love it when you make something out of a rusty piece of steel. Such a good feeling making your own brackets.
Oh no! Green machine! I used to love watching the early videos of you working on that boat. Really Gave me the motivation to work on my boat
all electric should be in a sealed cabinet because you having them in the engine room .and battery's in a vented box because of acid fumes on flammable gases which well corrode your electrics and other metal part. always expect the worst case scenario when it comes to mix electric water gases and fuels ( DON"T ) this is a practice i was taught and used over the 40 odd year boat building. great job you are doing too
Excellent Advice, Stevo.
Hey stu, I’m not a wooden boat builder but I believe the idea behind steaming wood into a different shape relies more on the heat being applied to the wood and nothing to do with the water. I think you might be making a mistake by just wetting the wood with boiling water. You need to apply force to the wood while it’s hot and the resins within the fibres are made malleable, as soon as it cools the timber will retain its new shape.
I enjoy your vids, good progress so far, 👍👍
Yes, I agree, have been starting to bend it while warm. Thinking of leaving it with some weights on it while I'm on the road trip.
I tried to steam some wood as a kid so I just held the button down on the jug and the lid melted, then dad belted the crap out of me.. I see you way works much better
RIP Green machine. You will be missed. In fact, it's what caught my attention on the first video I watched on this channel. I found you and your channel looking for tips and tricks boating and such.
Good idea. Get rid of the green machine for something ya can bring on board the troller and go back and forth between home and the troller. It would turn into a giant pain to have to drag that big of a boat around behind ya, plus the green machine has seen better days. There's only so much you can patch and fix before the whole vessel becomes one big floating unreliable patch.
Yes, you do eventually start fighting a losing battle with a boat that needs too much patching, plus I know it would knock against the hull no matter how careful I am and chip all the paintwork on the trawler.
I would do the battery shelf because it would look neater, and when you go to run the wires you can neatly cable tie them to the board before they go where they have to go. Plus you have a shelf where you could mount more electrical things like distribution blocks to save room on the electrical boards.. I'd also run at least 4 gauge wire up to the pilot house as this will give you plenty of head room for further electrical goodies you'll likely add on in the future.
I absolutely recommend the battery tray have at least a 1 inch lip all the way around it. The last thing you want is acid eating into the steel hull you have put so much work into. Cut some strips, glue and screw them around the perimeter with 5300. Hit it with a router and a round over bit, and you will have an awesome battery tray.
Yes, I agree you can't be too safe with the batteries. Anything can happen, and on boats it usually does.
Enjoy your break. Sorry about the Green Machine. She served her purpose well. The inflatable tender is a good idea. Got my Dangar Marine T-shirt last week. Sporting it here in middle Tennessee. Cheers mate.
Maybe a cameo on Project Brupeg???
Thanks for buying a t-shirt! :) Yep, will be doing some filming with Damien and Jess while I'm up there.
@@DangarMarine
We will be watching for it. Best wishes.
My wife and I really enjoy your videos. Thank you!😁
Maybe put only one board in engine room and hook up what you need there ? Run maybe a 8 ga. Gauge wire to your wheel house console where your steering is. a battery bank there with an isolator ( or better yet 2 alternators )so you don't kill your engine battery. Put your solar panel controller there as well. Could save lots of money on wire . That's kind of how we did it on our boats anyhow. Maybe put second panel in lazarette if you want to put a small generator in future.
That's pretty much the plan more or less.
Enjoy your break and a few beers.
Perfect dingy is a Boston Whaler squall. 9 feet or 3 meters. Unsinkable, seaworthy, sails too. Can handle I believe a five horse power outboard. I used mine to sail, haul gear, pull lobster traps. Self bailing. Don’t know if you can find one down there used but awesome dingy. We’ve had a family of four in it so almost 700 pounds.
Farewell good and faithful servant. It was a honour to ride aboard you GM. Enjoy the break Stu and take plenty of Bundy... I would buy green machine but my wife would kill me... another 50 year old hull 😞👨✈️
Of all my subscriptions yours is the one I look forward to the most Stu ,really enjoy your trials tribulations and successful moments in equal measure!....enjoy your break you deserve it mate .regards from an old Pommy b.
Thanks Gerald! :)
Boats looking great!
use the old wet exhaust hole since its already there for venting the engine room /battery compartment. just put a blower in it and a flapper. draw up your wiring schematic and get the parts so you can lay them out on the boards. looking good.
Good idea. :)
I would strip every thing off the Green Machine before scraping her. Love the videos.
I’ve been waiting for this. To cure the Sunday blues before work
This is when I love living in WA... public holiday tomorrow :)
ethan harris I can certainly relate however, I didn’t think I would ever say this but I really kind enjoy going to work and I don’t dread Mondays anymore,
I love the green machine!! RIP dear friend!
Hi Stu,
If you have enough rubbing strip to start from the front and work back to an area with less bend would be ideal. Make your miter joint in the less bend area so the pressure of the mounting holds the joint together, some water proof epoxy will be good also and clamp it with 2 different pieces of angle; one from back other from top to squeeze it together square until it sets.
Think about your electrics as a system, DC/AC power buss (batteries/Generator), shore power, grounding buss and neutral buss; engine controls, navigation lighting zones, marine instruments/radio (isolate from electrical noise) Accessory power USB, plug-in items everyday convenience, 12v lighting and or full power lighting, solar/wind charging; grounding to Sea. All items/panels need to be grounded. Different boat hull metals and valves/through hulls need to be bonded to mitigate electrolysis/galvanics . Each panel should be grounded to every location so your reference does not change from any location in the ship. Figure out a color code system, so when you are into it for troubleshooting and servicing it is visually easy to follow. Then plan your layouts, so say you do not want to go to engine bay to reset a breaker for nav lights, or to install your radar or loranz, depth sounder instruments.
BTW the old electrics on the ship might be part of the reason your different metal valves and components are so difficult to take apart (electrolysis/galvanics) welding the air-gap of the threads together. I did not remember seeing any wires attached to any joints or couplings in your tear-down videos.
Bite the bullet if you do not have one and get a commercial wire labeller.
Investigate Pre-assembled wiring/switch/circuit breaker panels as they may be more cost effective, dollar and time-wise; according to boat builder electricians reviews in blogs.
www.marinesurvey.com/yacht/ElectricalSystems.htm
www.westmarine.com/WestAdvisor/Marine-Grounding-Systems
Hey mate, thanks for all the info and the links, will read them now.
Always look forward to watching on my Sunday mornings. I do wish these were longer episodes but I enjoy them all the same. Also HDPE (High Density Polyethylene) is a great material to have on hand for lots of different projects.
Very handy stuff other than being impossibly to glue.
You weld it using a plastic mig weld system. Works well.
Takes practice though.
The road-trip and break from the project is a brilliant idea. Can't have you burning out ... what would we do THEN????!!!!
I'll film the trip too. :)
Another good movie as usual Stu. We know that batteries last longer when they're cool and charged? The engine room is quite hot and not the best place. I have 5 x 8yr old AGMs still doing well in a seperate compartment. They're connected to a Victron charger and I dont use shore power; just solar. This been good value for me.
With those stuck gate valve tops, don't use the bench vice to try to hold the valve, you might find if you get a suitable small tree, stump or other strong fixed object and put a length of chain around it, then the chain around the gate valve body you can put the pipe wrench on it with a torque multiplying pipe on the handle and it may come loose.
Yep, the entire bench moves when its in the vice. :O
@@DangarMarine I found stringy bark gum trees work well as the part is gripped somewhat in the thick bark and is less likely to slip around.
Hi Stu, sad news about Big Green, maybe we could have a viking send-off for his journey to Valhalla? Road trip sounds good. Stay safe and keep up the good work. 👍
I definitely think a Viking sendoff is in order. :)
Very excited to see you visiting Jess and Damien, I follow both Brupeg and Dangar, what an amazing combo! Keep up the good work, mate!
While I am addicted to this series and could watch way more of it, a break sounds like a good thing for you. Always brings out new ideas when you take a few steps back for a few days.
Hey Stu, I was thinking that taking a paint pen and putting the date on some of the things that you have torn down and rebuilt, could help you later on down the road. If it doesn't it is still fun to see that stuff.
Having information like that is always fun and handy.
Enjoy your break,Cannot wait for the "Electics" video as marine electrics was my forte before I moved on to "Marine Electronics" for over 30 years so when you get to the "electronics phase" feel free to pick my brains.
WIll do, thanks mate.
I am definitly not a grease priest the one thing I am a expert in, is making fuses pop. Only thing I can think off is installing extra cabels and fuses so that if you want to upgrade electrical systems, you can do it easily (and ofcourse inistalling extra powersockets). Anyway I hope you have a nice roadtrip :D
Wow the engine bay is looking great, being painted white is gonna really brighten it up
You should look for a 4m RIB and put the 40 on it. Great runabout and tender.
Stu wants an inflatable. I know RIBs will have better sea keeping capability, but a 4m on the back of the trawler will kill any available space. Long term looking for something made with hypalon is the way to go. PVC in Aussie temperatures will have shorter lifespan.
Am I the only one thats presses the like button as soon as a new vid goes up....I just assume it will be great
Paint looks awesome in the engine bay behind your electrical board's, all the best Stu
If you are thinking of a new outboard for your new dinghy, I suggest you look at the littlest Honda. I have been considering one of these as an auxiliary for my boats. Only 30 lbs @ 2.3hp. 4 stroke, air cooled( no water pump to worry about). Been watching videos about this motor and I have to say I'm impressed. Your new inflatable is rated for up to 5hp. An engine that size will go faster and have other features you might like but it will weigh twice as much and cost a good deal more. Just a thought, you may already have other plans. Cheers mate, keep up the great videos.
Hey mate. I too have been looking at the four stroke Hondas. They seem to have some great features and review really well.
Luckiest day of that boat's life was when you bought it. Enjoy the Land Rover trip!
Thanks love the videos
Stu - Your videos are great and I look forward to seeing them every week. I know you’re on a budget but please get and wear some safety glasses. I lost the vision in one eye and don’t want the same fate for you. Can’t wait until you’re done.
R.I.P. Green Machine ! your days of terrorizing australian waters are done , now rest and let your legend lives on !
You are doing everything so top notch, why would you stop at 40 year old wiring? Copper can look good and it is not. Peace of mind, is priceless. Keep up the good work.
Yes, I think I will be ripping all the wiring out and starting from scratch.
Oh by the way your show is great, I cannot wait for the next episode. Who knew that a man from Aus with a rusty old bucket was such great entertainment.
LOL, thanks David. :)
Scrape the hull and fix the split by brazing an aluminum patch over it. I know that it will flex, but the patch can be longer to fix between hull braces. Either that or recycle the boat. Sinking it makes a navigational hazard.
You should add a few pieces of the green machine to the trawler. To keep the green machine living.
I do like that idea, I've been thinking the same thing. :)
Can’t wait to see your new tender setup you always make them look killer ! Steering wheel ? I THINK SO!!!!!
Hi Stu,
I reckon the green machine engine is worth a bit and the trailer mate, but I think the boat will be soon be coke cans.
Boats looking real good, its a lot of work on your own Stu and every now and then you'll be over it all.
Better to take a break I think, recharge, regroup, get the lantern shining bright again and remember what your doing it for.
Water tight or waterproof electric circuit breaker boxes are the way ahead mate, will protect all your wiring and save you a fortune and time in the long run.
Not expensive and nice n neat, trust me.
Enjoy yer road trip to Brupeg
Great idea to take a break and recharge.Jess and Damien are great p folks. I hope to see them in September.
Try and have fun too. All the best Mate
Great show.
Green Machine had a great long life thanks to your efforts. Stumbled upon your video, Is it a bad idea to buy an old steel boat. Been hooked ever since. I have no doubt lots of your information dealing with boats and harsh Marine environment will save lives.
I can't wait to see the trawler finished. I have private pilots licence loves aircraft but I'm loving the whole danger marine life thanks to Stu
Looking great man..... love the blue you're using on the outside of the hull.
For a big wide gasket like that and with as many fasteners as there are holding the cover on I think 20nm should be plenty.
Remember that the gasket is going to relax over time. I'd verify torque in a week.
Yeah taking a bit of time away from the project to look at other stuff is a good idea that way you don't get burnt out stew. What most people don't understand with aluminum boats you have metal sitting in an electrolyte and overtime the aluminum gets brittle and you're both cracked right where I figured it would cuz it seems to be an ongoing problem on just about every aluminum boat made.
Yes, aluminium, although amazing stuff does have its limits.
Have a nice few days away. It always helps to take a breather!
Right on... decisions made, perspective sharpened on ward to new discoveries... reviewing others work always gives one the third eye, to see the possibilities... Cheers... Lovely work, always have a viewing crowd aboard to help watch me work....
Great segment. It's 3:30am Shade OH - so I'll feed the goats and chickens, and then to bed. Just love following your project and problem solving.
I don't know if the shelf is still an issue. I doubt it is. But I know here in the US there's this PVC like trim you can get from the home improvement store. It's primarily made for trimming out bathrooms. It's mold and rot resistant and all that good stuff. You could grab a small piece of that and make a little lip on the shelf with that. Guess I'll find out in the rest of the series if it's ever solved. Lol.
Read up regarding powering the inflatable tender , try electric , you can get quite a lot of sea miles with an electric powered outboard , no mucking around with mixing gas and oil . Worth thinking about , cheers from NZ.
Hey Rick, I do like the idea of going electric for this tender, particularly the models where the battery is in the motor.
@@DangarMarine I`ve never owned one , but they are light as , which will make it perfect for lifting the inflatable onto the launch and at the boat ramp.
I dig your vids man...I admire your diligence. It is past my abilities AND dedication.
I look forward to how that old girl progresses.
I sure do love to see the old good girls brought back..
She was not near dead when you got her only sad, sore used and beat.. she is looking perky now tho
She is in good hands..
Thanks mate. Yes, this boat was very close to reaching the point of no return.
Stu, using that poly board for the batteries will work well. We have a similar product here in the states called StarBoard. I use it to make different brackets, shelves, supports in boats all the time. Works great.
I think two boards dedicated to different purposes will serve you well in the future
I am a bit conserned with your choice of electric panel location. The engine room is a nasty location. Lots of mixed fumes to encourage corosion and tight quarters to be serviceing breakers and electric connections. I reccomend having your electric panel in the wheelhouse. If any electrical device goes out it offers quick and easy access. No corrosive fumes will be present and should you be underway it would be easier to be aware of your boat's surroundings and more comfortable to work. You're doing a fine job and moving along quickly. Good timing for a break, too.
There will be a breaker panel in the wheelhouse, but there are certain components that must be mounted close to the batteries, that is what this board is for.
Sorry about the green machine, I enjoyed those videos, but life goes on...The boat is really coming together, enjoy your mini break. :)
Congratulations for your great job master!
I used to have a inflateble from aliexpress. It was a 10,5 feet inflateble rated for 15 hp. With muy old 1956 Johnson 15 that boat simply flyes over water, but at its almost 10 years I wasnt able to keep it floating saftely. That's why i purchased a almost destroyed aluminum flat bottom to repair. Ironicly, in ten yeara the inflateble never sinks and in just 3 days a storm sinks the aluminum boat (and that is why flat bottom boats are not best for sea..... I should have imagine that).
Any way, with this boat maybe you can teach us how to take good care of a inflateble so it can last as much as it can. Congratulations again!
Hey mate, yes, I think this boat will be a good opportunity to talk a bit about inflatable boats for the first time.
Thank you for your videos... I love watching it... A lot of knowledge for me... But in malaysia, there is almost no steel trawlers except for offshore work company... Btw.. A lot of malaysian used fiberglass or wooden boat for fishing & other activites even deep sea fisherman... Looking forward for next video... 👍ups from Malaysia
Hi mate. Fibreglass and wooden boats are much more common here too. Most of the steel boats are quite old now.
The green machine is a de Havilland isn't it Stu? A bit of history for sale there. Geoffrey De Havilland, as many may know designed the wooden wonder. The Mosquito. A multi-role plane fitted with twin Merlins that many would argue was the best plane of WW2
Yep, it is a de Havilland Offshore 4.6
I forgot to mention another name idea for ur boat "The Sea word" cause maybe some might've been used in the the rebuilding of it
Not seen poly board before. Nice
I would consider a split electrical system. Main for running boat only. ( necessity systems to run the boat ) second system for auxiliary ( cab lights,etc. non necessity systems ) so if you ever run into a power issue bad battery(s) alternator, wiring issue you can direct all power to running the boat.
Stu, great vid as always, Mabey worth getting a couple of welding bungs and bung the filler and the vent and pressure test the fuel tank with a few psi of air and some soapy water just would save any mess if there was a small leak and save ou having to pump the diesel out again
Thank you for sharing the progress this week. I must have missed a video because it looks like you hav already painted some of the engine bay walls. Looking good all the way around.
I actually painted the back of the engine bay during the course of this video, just didn't really film the process. I'll do that for the rest.
if you need somewhere to sleep on your roadtrip I'm located in brisbane and have a spare room and shower, love the videos.
Thanks mate!
The green machine did a good job and it is time for it to go. Good the motor is still in good shape. If you were closer I'd buy it
Hey Mate you should replace that power cable running to your electrics. It can still be used for something on shore but I wouldn't trust it long term on the boat. Try and eliminate as much old wire as you can. It introduces too many variables and fault points. One other thing test that board your thinking about mounting the electrics to for spark flammability open flame flammability and heat flammability. You might want to also make sure it doesn't react to diesel fuel or become more easily flammable under those conditions with diesel on it. You don't want to find out later ten miles off shore that it catches really easily. Cheers Mate!
Yeah, I’m thinking of replacing all the wiring.
To be to standard, the batteries should be in a container/box that can contain acid in the event of a case spliting or worse.
As always engoyinyg your videos, safe travels.
batteries dont just leak acid. they are quite robust. no such thing needed
@@rigdigwus On a boat like an aircraft, upside down is an option.
Batteries off gas hydrogen when charging if you dont use sealed recombinant electolyte batteries. This needs to be vented to prevent explosions.
Any seawater round the battery and you get chlorine gas on one terminal and caustic soda on the other so keeping them dry is also a priority.
I wouldn't put electrics round the engine that dont need to be round the engine for these reasons. I would put a sealed breaker panel near the console with a minimal package where flooding may happen.
A SLA backup battery for radios etc in a separate box may be a good option too.
@@rigdigwus IT is a requirement in boats for a reason, Ive seen cracked cases, cases that have blown the top off and split down the sides dropping the entire contents of an N200 into the batttery box, corroded terminals, have you ever seen an older car without a corroded steel battery tray? even if the battery is intact, now think about that happening in a boat hull....Nobody has to do anything I reccomend but if you want a safe and legal system electrically
@@allangibson8494 Good points, All the heavy DC should stay in the engine room to keep the cable runs as short as possible, exept on petrol inboard boats for other reasons . Survey vessels do have a radio battery in the bridge as a requirement.
@@Nick75au1 A lot depends on your paranoia level too.
Having been involved in oil rig systems design, a DC plastic dip or heat shrink insulated buss bar (2" by 1/4") would be preferred over cable and hull negative returns would be avoided totally. All penetrations through bulkheads should be via pressure tight IP68 cable glands.
Electrical boxes should be IP68 minimum and IP69K if possible.
The next step up would be fitting the engine with dual starters, one electric and one hand cranked spring recoil starter (this is done on marine lifeboats (and the oil rig fire pumps, emergency generators and air compressors (hand starting a 27 litre diesel engine is a really good workout (the usual starters were an air starter on the electrical generator and an electric starter on the air compressor)).
Depends on how much water in the boat you want to be able to handle and how far you are willing to swim....
For the Rib, consider spending more money and get one made of Hypalon. The PVC ones won't last. Hypalon may last 4 times longer. The UV and sun kill the PVC fast. Buy cheap pay twice.
Yes, this is a bit of a stop gap until I've got some more money. It will get me out of trouble for a couple years I hope.
Good work,it’s all pay off in the end.
Noooo I love the green machine!! I also like the plan to get a tender. I have a 2009 5hp 2stroke mercury hardly ever been used. if you want to put it on the tender
It is sad. :( Thanks for the offer but I have a Honda organised already.
@@DangarMarine No Worries
I had a 21' cuddy cabin boat with a v6 engine and outdrive. The builder put the fuel tank all the way back in the port stern corner and the batteries in the starboard stern corner. This had all the weight in the last 3' of the boat. It jumped out of the water and on plane great but if you hit swells over 8" (yes, 8 inches!) the boat pounded enough to beat your fillings out.
So, think about your weight distribution when placing your batteries and the electrics. As you are finding out it is better to work with the most curved part of bending wood first and working towards the straighter area and not the other way. Enjoy your time away and above all have fun. :)
Yes, it will be interesting to see how the boat sits in the water and adjust the lead ballast as required.
Another great video Stu. So much progress make
Had an old aluminum hull too, multiple welds, cracks next to the old welds, never ending pain in the bum. Own a polycraft hull now and love it. Time to sell the old girl for what you need right now.btw polycraft tuff tenders are pretty awesome ;)
Double walled and indestructible...tougher than a wheelie bin, but yes, pretty much same plastic
@@adammcgeorge3538 With me it's just the association, I think rotational molded poly boats are probably viable to a price point and size but then alloy & fibreglass boats are more widely accepted with the trailer boat crowd and cost the same, or less. Me, I'm all for W.A aluminium plate boats along the Jackman naval architect design's, from 5mtr and larger are the go, great sea legs on the chop & waves on fresh or salt water.
On my truck the battery has a clamp style fastener holding onto the bottom lip of the battery. I like that idea with a strap over the top for my boat remodel. If the strap fails I have that lip fastener.
Just a quick observation when you have a gasket that is holding fluids,I was always taught start at the bottom and work up either side to side to the top ,this means any distortion in the gasket will be above the opening
The trouble with this is that the fuel fills to over the top so it can leak from any edge.
:( I’ll miss the green machine. The main reason I started watchin your channel. Keep up the good work
Hi , I would of suggested that any join in the rubbing strip should be located at :
the point of least impact
The point of least curvature.
it is very hard to secure the rubbing strip join where it is being bent the most.
Also the three steel square tubes sticking out of the bulkhead to support the batteries may be a bit undersized, when you consider pounding at sea. The shelf should be braced under the shelf to strengthen it.
cheers
otherwise and as always great video.
Thank for posting
Adios Green Machine! Engine bay is looking good.