*Important safety mistake* - I used a voltage detector that only detects AC, and this area of the vehicle is all DC! Use a different method to check for voltage.
Lol I bought one seeing your video but I tested it beforehand on my working heater but it didn't worked obviously. Maybe add a warning subtitle in your video. Thanks for sharing
@@gtech6 Sorry about that! I just added the warning to the top of the description to make it more visible. It is a very handy tool to have around if you are doing anything electrical around the house, but not quite as useful on our Teslas.
I followed this video and fixed the AC on my 2013 Model S P85. Thank you! My AC worked fine last summer and when I tried to use for the first time this spring it didn't work. I've been using AC occasionally for the last week (after this fix) and it's still working. My cost = $65 (two Bussman FWP40A14FA fuses and Permatex 85224 'gasket maker') plus a few hours of my time. Rumored repair cost = $1300. Savings = $1235
2013 Model S85 with 156,000 miles on it. Everything working well and went out to the grocery store last night (Dec. 22, 2024) here in D.C, with sub-zero temps, and of course with no warning only blowing freezing cold air. Even tried restarting the entire car. Called my local EV garage this morning and they automatically said the PTC (Positive Temperature Coefficient) heater would definitely need to be replaced for $1000. I even asked them if they would first consider checking the fuses. They are quoting me $301 just for the fuses and $598 for replacing the heater with a used (no warranty/no guarantee) heater. I dont have even the extra $300 to spare. It's near Christmas and I have no other options because it's freezing outside, literally. I HOPE this is the fix. If so, I'll follow up soon. Need to Amazon the fuses first. Thank you.
super video! cabin heater stil ok? my heater stops wurking after using the app to defrost the car.i think the cold temp and the hi starting amps trickers the fast ceramic fuse
@@alecwaugh7540 Update: Three months later and it’s working well. It’s been pretty cold, and I don’t have a garage, so I’m getting more confident that the PTC is ok and that you’re right about the fuse not being rated correctly to handle its job.
Great job… wonder if this would apply to my 2015 p85D? Heater still works but you never know. Any idea what caused the fuse to blow other than the age of the car?
I also have a 2015 P85D now, but have not heard of this happening on 2015+ vehicles. Even if it does, I believe the DC-DC converter is now more easily accessible. I'm not sure what caused in on the early vehicles, but possibly just an underrated fuse.
Does anyone know the wattage of the heater ? Presumably it runs on 12v and not the main battery. 40A at 12v is only 480 watts. I guess it don't require a lot of heat to warm a cabin.
It's on the hv battery, so the fuse is 40a @ 350, so 14kw, usually about 80%of the fuse is used max, so about 11kw. Someone else i saw they called out 9500w, so it's around there.
@@BigLoaded1 Unfortunately I don’t know much more about the DC/DC converter than what you see in the video, since I was just basing my process off of the few other similar videos I found. If you have specific question, post it here and maybe someone who sees it will be able to help.
*Important safety mistake* - I used a voltage detector that only detects AC, and this area of the vehicle is all DC! Use a different method to check for voltage.
Lol I bought one seeing your video but I tested it beforehand on my working heater but it didn't worked obviously. Maybe add a warning subtitle in your video. Thanks for sharing
@@gtech6 Sorry about that! I just added the warning to the top of the description to make it more visible. It is a very handy tool to have around if you are doing anything electrical around the house, but not quite as useful on our Teslas.
I just wrote a whole health and safety ramble, then I saw this comment 🤣
Dumb question: You were only using the continuity part. Continuity testing isn't the same with DC and AC on a tester?
I followed this video and fixed the AC on my 2013 Model S P85. Thank you! My AC worked fine last summer and when I tried to use for the first time this spring it didn't work. I've been using AC occasionally for the last week (after this fix) and it's still working. My cost = $65 (two Bussman FWP40A14FA fuses and Permatex 85224 'gasket maker') plus a few hours of my time. Rumored repair cost = $1300. Savings = $1235
Awesome video man. you covered all the basics pretty well for the person who is comfortable doing this kind of stuff.
Thanks for this! Helped me through
Getting the fuses back in gave me trouble until I removed one of the orange wire housings
2013 Model S85 with 156,000 miles on it. Everything working well and went out to the grocery store last night (Dec. 22, 2024) here in D.C, with sub-zero temps, and of course with no warning only blowing freezing cold air. Even tried restarting the entire car. Called my local EV garage this morning and they automatically said the PTC (Positive Temperature Coefficient) heater would definitely need to be replaced for $1000. I even asked them if they would first consider checking the fuses. They are quoting me $301 just for the fuses and $598 for replacing the heater with a used (no warranty/no guarantee) heater. I dont have even the extra $300 to spare. It's near Christmas and I have no other options because it's freezing outside, literally. I HOPE this is the fix. If so, I'll follow up soon. Need to Amazon the fuses first. Thank you.
super video! cabin heater stil ok? my heater stops wurking after using the app to defrost the car.i think the cold temp and the hi starting amps trickers the fast ceramic fuse
@@alecwaugh7540 thx soon i will fix this on my 2013 model s 🤞
That is what happened to mine on the first day winter hit , I really was hoping I could fix it myself if possible.
1981jwb did you fix yours mine just stop glad it made it threw winter
@@alecwaugh7540 Update: Three months later and it’s working well. It’s been pretty cold, and I don’t have a garage, so I’m getting more confident that the PTC is ok and that you’re right about the fuse not being rated correctly to handle its job.
The Unqualified Mechanic Is there a way that you could post a direct link on where to buy one
Great job… wonder if this would apply to my 2015 p85D? Heater still works but you never know. Any idea what caused the fuse to blow other than the age of the car?
I also have a 2015 P85D now, but have not heard of this happening on 2015+ vehicles. Even if it does, I believe the DC-DC converter is now more easily accessible. I'm not sure what caused in on the early vehicles, but possibly just an underrated fuse.
Any way You could send a Direct link of the fuse you used
Bussmann FWP40A14FA NSNPGENUINE FWP 40A14FA
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0161CKSTS/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Does anyone know the wattage of the heater ? Presumably it runs on 12v and not the main battery. 40A at 12v is only 480 watts. I guess it don't require a lot of heat to warm a cabin.
It's on the hv battery, so the fuse is 40a @ 350, so 14kw, usually about 80%of the fuse is used max, so about 11kw. Someone else i saw they called out 9500w, so it's around there.
Can you give me a call? I have a question about my dcdc
@@BigLoaded1 Unfortunately I don’t know much more about the DC/DC converter than what you see in the video, since I was just basing my process off of the few other similar videos I found. If you have specific question, post it here and maybe someone who sees it will be able to help.