Thanks for the video! I love that you're doing this with bog-standard tools that most folks will have available. I see lots of references to desoldering stations and spring-loaded solder suckers but those aren't tools I have, either. As much as I'd hate to wish it on anyone, I'd love to see how you'd handle one of the contact pads getting pulled up.
Other videos I've seen suggested that the through-hole electrolytic capacitors like C52 or C51 (the one connected to the resistor) aren't nearly as prone to failure as the surface-mount caps, so they typically only replace the surface-mounts.
I think the capacitors had something to do with it since i booted the game up after replacing the battery. Could be a cap between the battery and ram that retains a very slight charge? Removing that cap must have completely broke the circuit. That's my theory anyway
@@GlitchedDot I agree. I just find it odd it worked after the battery removal, but not the capacitors. I wouldn't think those caps would hold enough charge to keep the RAM going for the length of time the battery was removed.
@@RetroRepairs Was wondering why I lost game saves after replacing capacitors. Even though I did not remove the battery. Because the saves are stored on a RAM chip and the Battery only provides power to that chip when the system is off. The voltage from the battery probably has to travel though a capacitor to make it to the ram chip.. Since RAM needs power, any break in that connection will wipe the RAM. Makes total sense now.
Hello, I think on the boot screen, when the Sega logo and Sonic shows up, the sound effect missing a clink, if I remember correctly is two clinks Good job by the way!
Do you have to worry about static electricity while working on game system boards? I've never heard you mention that on the videos I've watched. Thanks
In an actual repair shop, techs will have esd safe workplaces with a grounding wriststrap connected to an outlet or ground. Tools will be esd safe (esd brush instead of toothbrush, esd tweezers, soldering iron, etc.) This stuff can get expensive though, so what you can also do is ground yourself by touching something grounded (pc case, metal screws on a light switch cover, water pipe, etc.) Before you work. If you leave and come back, ground yourself again. Dont wear baggy or wooly clothing. You could work naked, but be careful with that soldering iron! Some equipment is more sensitive to esd than others. Snes seems to be pretty sensitive, but various game carts I've worked with are not.
thanx for the video! My mega-cd is onening and closing the tray all the time, and don't read cd. I'm amateur but enthusiast. Have you ever seen and fixed these symptoms?
Did you ever end up resolving the issue of when you eject the tray you can see the disk is spinning on the bare plastic which can ruin the disc. It's a very common problem with these along with the gear grinding issue. I see you in your newest videos you having the gear grinding issue that you couldn't fix and hopefully you'll go back and truly fix this issue in this video
Spinning Disk on eject and gear grinding issues are fixed by cleaning the micro switches for the tray, they have plastic shields on them that you pull off and clean the metal contacts,
I replaced the capacitors on my model 1 as you did in this video, but it didn't solve my issue. The kit I got included caps for the other board as well, but there was no chart included showing which ones go where. Do you happen to have one? Thank you!
hi... my tray was getting stuck when it try to get out. so i open up the whole mega cd 1. then i push a bit on the lens (not the actual glass, but what's around) and it went down... it seems i ruin some plastic... now what do I do? how is it supposed to be aligned? what is it supposed to look like from the side?
I saw other vids of you fixing gameboy color's. So I accidentally put the wrong AC adapter in one of my game boys ;higher voltage. Did i fry the motherboard? Doesn't turn on with batteries, or power on at all. Only the power light turns on. With batteries (nothing, dead)
With flux and a proper sized tip, the solder will usually go exactly where it's supposed to, even on really small pads. Just needs some practice to get the right amount of solder
This music is actually just the boot music on the Sega cd. I thought it was appropriate for this series. Not sure what my next video will be yet, but will probably go back to your music. Thanks again.
@@RetroRepairs I've never heard it before, I know a bit about Sega consoles but they're pretty foreign to me. The only Sega console I own is the Dreamcast. Use whatever you like. I don't mind.
Thanks for the video! I love that you're doing this with bog-standard tools that most folks will have available. I see lots of references to desoldering stations and spring-loaded solder suckers but those aren't tools I have, either. As much as I'd hate to wish it on anyone, I'd love to see how you'd handle one of the contact pads getting pulled up.
Other videos I've seen suggested that the through-hole electrolytic capacitors like C52 or C51 (the one connected to the resistor) aren't nearly as prone to failure as the surface-mount caps, so they typically only replace the surface-mounts.
quite the overhaul on this bad boy!! Keep at it!!
Great video. Thinking of doing mine but I'm a rookie at soldering. Still going to give it a go though
If your substituting Caps farad rating stays the same but make sure voltage is higher.
Correct. You can go up in voltage, but capacitance rating needs to stay the same.
That RAM error is possibly cuz you removed the cell battery and that wiped the save chip clean into a RAW format. That seems most logical.
I think the capacitors had something to do with it since i booted the game up after replacing the battery. Could be a cap between the battery and ram that retains a very slight charge? Removing that cap must have completely broke the circuit. That's my theory anyway
@@RetroRepairs or that. Either way, loss of power wiped it to a RAW format leading to that error.
@@GlitchedDot I agree. I just find it odd it worked after the battery removal, but not the capacitors. I wouldn't think those caps would hold enough charge to keep the RAM going for the length of time the battery was removed.
@@RetroRepairs Was wondering why I lost game saves after replacing capacitors. Even though I did not remove the battery. Because the saves are stored on a RAM chip and the Battery only provides power to that chip when the system is off. The voltage from the battery probably has to travel though a capacitor to make it to the ram chip.. Since RAM needs power, any break in that connection will wipe the RAM. Makes total sense now.
Awesome video man! Where do you find the capacitor map for the model 1 Sega CD?
Hello, I think on the boot screen, when the Sega logo and Sonic shows up, the sound effect missing a clink, if I remember correctly is two clinks
Good job by the way!
there also might be a track that isnt present
edit: i just think i found it. The second clink is the right audio while everything else isnt.
your dog made the vid, snapped me back in thanks, great work
She likes hanging out and "helping" with the repairs.
Would love to see a followup video of replacing the pico fuse
Yay another upload. You have a very friendly voice.
Do you have to worry about static electricity while working on game system boards? I've never heard you mention that on the videos I've watched. Thanks
In an actual repair shop, techs will have esd safe workplaces with a grounding wriststrap connected to an outlet or ground. Tools will be esd safe (esd brush instead of toothbrush, esd tweezers, soldering iron, etc.)
This stuff can get expensive though, so what you can also do is ground yourself by touching something grounded (pc case, metal screws on a light switch cover, water pipe, etc.) Before you work. If you leave and come back, ground yourself again.
Dont wear baggy or wooly clothing. You could work naked, but be careful with that soldering iron!
Some equipment is more sensitive to esd than others. Snes seems to be pretty sensitive, but various game carts I've worked with are not.
thanx for the video! My mega-cd is onening and closing the tray all the time, and don't read cd. I'm amateur but enthusiast. Have you ever seen and fixed these symptoms?
I really need to do mine. I've read many of these are leaking at this point.
How do you know so much about this kind of stuff?...Very impressed w/ your repair job for the Sega Cd
Awesome video thanks. Got to do mine and will definitely help. Much appreciated
Did you ever end up resolving the issue of when you eject the tray you can see the disk is spinning on the bare plastic which can ruin the disc. It's a very common problem with these along with the gear grinding issue. I see you in your newest videos you having the gear grinding issue that you couldn't fix and hopefully you'll go back and truly fix this issue in this video
Spinning Disk on eject and gear grinding issues are fixed by cleaning the micro switches for the tray, they have plastic shields on them that you pull off and clean the metal contacts,
@VerboSine I guess that's something you'll have to find out for yourself clean them all
I replaced the capacitors on my model 1 as you did in this video, but it didn't solve my issue. The kit I got included caps for the other board as well, but there was no chart included showing which ones go where. Do you happen to have one? Thank you!
hi... my tray was getting stuck when it try to get out. so i open up the whole mega cd 1. then i push a bit on the lens (not the actual glass, but what's around) and it went down... it seems i ruin some plastic... now what do I do? how is it supposed to be aligned? what is it supposed to look like from the side?
I noticed your disc is still spinning when you eject
What do you use to edit your videos? I'm just curious.
is it me, or are some of the IC's legs sloppily soldered onto his board?
Kinda looks that way on camera. Didn't really notice off, but i think "if it aint broke..." Applies for this one
I saw other vids of you fixing gameboy color's. So I accidentally put the wrong AC adapter in one of my game boys ;higher voltage. Did i fry the motherboard? Doesn't turn on with batteries, or power on at all. Only the power light turns on. With batteries (nothing, dead)
@suthun1509 thanks. Appreciate the help
I bought a model 1 sega cd and one of the ribbon cables has a rip in it. Is there anywhere to buy a replacement ribbon cable?
Best bet would be ebay. I buy stuff from console5, but I've never seen the ribbon connectors there
Thanks man, yeah that is where I got the sega cd. Looks like i will have to replace the capacitors on it.
So tiny I'd probably bridge something by doing this myself :P but yeah I learnt a new thing about caps. Thanks !
With flux and a proper sized tip, the solder will usually go exactly where it's supposed to, even on really small pads. Just needs some practice to get the right amount of solder
@@RetroRepairs I think I'll have to try soon, got a little easy side job for my friend. Gotta clean up my iron first ! I often forget about it
I see you replaced my intro music I made for you tsk tsk. All jokes aside this one is much better than the one I made, I like it!
This music is actually just the boot music on the Sega cd. I thought it was appropriate for this series. Not sure what my next video will be yet, but will probably go back to your music. Thanks again.
@@RetroRepairs I've never heard it before, I know a bit about Sega consoles but they're pretty foreign to me. The only Sega console I own is the Dreamcast. Use whatever you like. I don't mind.
I have 5 of these Sega CD model how much to fix them 😥
I'll buy one if you want to unload.
Very nice job.
nice video.
Next time remove the battery while soldering, you never know...
You wanna make new video I have couple sega model 1 cd needs some repairs
Send me an email to retrorepairsca@gmail.com and we can chat.
finally :)
2
no hot glue?? lmfao
Brazil