Perfect video! Soldering can be a bit intimidating if you have never done it. This video gave me confidence to give it a shot to bring my old SNES back to life. Fixed it last night! Thanks again!
They sell vibrating toothbrushes for like $5 with a battery in the handle... try one of those on the circuit boards your life will never be the same. I use it to clean car parts, removing carbon from throttle plates and inside little nooks and crannies on parts I have to disassemble, a vibrating toothbrush is a godsend. Makes the work even cleaner and much faster, totally worth the small price.
Thank you for your videos! I learn so much, and you always use tools that most of us have at home, so no need to buy that expensive specific soldering iron most of "how-to" videos use!
use an ice cube tray for holding and organizing screws as you take apart and reassemble electronics. Each individual cubs can either hold a different size screw, or a all the screws for the next 'step;; of the repair. Much easier to keep track of than just throwing all the screws in a metal dish.
For some more complex ones, such as even the n64, absolutely. Snes only has 4 different screw types, security screws, brass board screws, silver cart slot screws and small brass heatshield screws. Ive opened enough i know where they all go. Can also use egg cartons or anything similar.
Actually what I have been using for years is a pill dispenser i.e one that has the days of the week on that way I can organise each screw into compartments and have a lid to close so if you knock it over they wont spill.
i'm loving all these new videos, i tend to find with desoldering using a combination of copper wick and a desolder pump gets the larger holes cleaned if you don't have a desoldering gun (which aren't always great for bigger pads anyway, they sometimes struggle to get hot enough)
Yeah. One of these days I'll invest in a pump, but for now, the wick will have to do. For a long time i was using the crappy stuff, and hated it. It's amazing what a difference spending a bit more for the good stuff will make
I've heard stories of people being unsatisfied, possibly from buying fake gootwick. Mg chemicals superwick seems to have the best stuff I've tried yet, but haven't bought any goot before. Just bought 50' on amazon for $35cad, i liked it that much
That's actually the SNES Burn-in Test cartridge I dumped. I guess people made reproduction boards from it without... regardless it should still work with any console because all it does is DMA open bus lines. The theme remixed to using Nintendo's N-SPC sound driver (same version used in the Super Scope 6 game) is the only remnant of the BS (Broadcast Satellaview) Zelda 2 that survived. Interesting because years ago one of our SNES consoles had the exact same issue with the power jack. We don't know how it happened with the previous owner but it did work and I was not old enough to know what had occured, just that it worked, really. Years later, now, I don't have the console and actually own a different unit which works.
20:06 "And it looks fine." Actually that circle transition isn't supposed to erase the bottom wood frame at any point. That was weird. Probably not too terribly important, but definitely weird.
First of all. I love your videos. Now may I try and get you to get one of those simple plunger desoldering pumps. You will like it. And it is a little quicker than the wick. Secondly if you still want to use the wick. May i suggest putting the flux on the wick only. It will make it pick up the soldier better. Just a couple suggestions. Keep up the videos !
My DC jack was loose and power only worked when held a certain way. When I went to resolder the metal ring around where you solder came off. After soldering I now have no power at all. Is it because the metal came off and if it is how do I fix it?
Hi, ever had to work on controller port issue? Got that old SNES working, but only with controller 2 port which sucks. Weirdest thing is : if I plug the other controller in port 1, port 2 stops working too..?! I decided to open the thing and clean it, but no luck. So, could be the ribbon, could the port board, could be the ribbon connector soldered onto the main board. My question is: could it be linked to the fact that the AC power entry is broken (just like in your first video) and it is not the original AC power plug I'm using but a Chinese NES/SNES power plug ? At this point, I just feel like buying another snes would be cheapest, but still I'm frustrated being stuck on that old technology.
Looking for someone to fix my old childhood snes. It still technically works, but the plastic inside of the power jack is half broken off, 15 years ago a cat peed on it which mostly only effected the outside. I took mine apart the the board is actually fairly clean. The main problem I have with mine is sometimes the games take a few attempts to get started up, I want to say I see a line in the middle of the screen sometime via composite. Mostly I want to hook my rad2x upscaler cable to it, however I appear to be seeing sync issues. The console will still work via composite, but appears to not be stable enough of a signal for the RGB the RAD2X picks up. I hooked my RAD2X up to my Nintendo 64, and that actually works flawlessly.
I accidentally burned off the thin Metal Contacts on the motherboard board trying to desolder the broken power Jack....Does anyone know if My Snes is ruined now? I got a power cord in today and was not able to get it to turn on. I'm not sure If I didn't solder correctly or if I completely ruined my Snes. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
"Keep your stuff in good shape and there is no need for repairs" But this channel is all about it :P Well great job here ! I'd probably give up on installing original power socket and do a mod, simply rip out the remaining power jack, install one of those standart barrel jacks - for example those used for led stripes, actually life savers in some occasions - and glue it together. Yeah I know, thats not the spirit :P fortunately you had replacement one for the original SNES. Recently I used the barrel jack for rescueing the Raspberry Pi computer, and it works great. I'm not that good to solder the original microUSB port, I'd most surely bridge something and whole board would be dead. Not to mention I dont like this type of connection since its prone to lose the connectivity after plugging and unplugging it numerous times. Had that happened in my cell phones.
I tried to fix my power cable by soldering the wire straight to the - & + terminals. I I didn't know which was + & - & I think I burn out a circuit. I saw the circuit glow & woldn't turn on again. Any idea what I might have to replace or how to find what burn out?
Mine is busted like that to . However it powers up but i usually get a black or static looking screen even after cleaning the cartridge slot. Could mine be getting enough voltage to turn the light on but low enough voltage to cause the board to not function as it should ?
Any idea how to repair a green graphics issue? My SNES has green-tinted graphics, like the red has been turned all the way down. I took it apart and don't see any control knobs to adjust the colors like the old Atari 2600, and can't find any repair info about it online.
Which of those pads on the board for the jack are for positive and which is for negative? I have the same issue but I've taken a power jack off of a router to use since it fits perfectly and doesn't use a weird connector but I'm not sure which is positive and negative so I haven't been able to plug it in yet for fear that it'll be wired backwards and blow something up...
Hello Adam I need help with my Super Nintendo it got stepped on do you have any top part of the cover by power switch broken how much for you to fix my supper Nintendo
I got one just like that, that's in perfect condition that has the same problem. I just ain't got around to fix it yet as I have no games at this time to play in it. I repair those nes games and consoles like new. 20+ years experience. I got inside one once and it was a disaster area someone had flux paste all inside of it, it look like flux paste it could've been melted board solder look like someone resolder the whole entire motherboard it was a wreck. I got it working somewhat the motherboard was almost shot in it. Too many line breaks to mess with I just left it as is. My friend wanted me to repair it enough where he could trade it or re sell it to someone it worked at a 70% good level not to 100% but 98% of them without replacing 72 pins in them i can take any old pin they are and gut anything and place on the system and get it working at 100% like it came out of a new box. I've had game carts looks like someone dragged out of a swamp and fixed them like new. I bought some off this person once they were only one defected game cart and it was cheap so I never messed with it wasn't worth wasting my time on only a Tetris gray cart on Nintendo if it was a Tengen yes I would had time to repair it. Some people repair them by resoldering the eeproms intact from different other games that is a hassle to do most times its best to re do them like your doing it easier that way. So most of you that go on Ebay and such places that others have games that you think that is the real deal and they got the game cart open that you think might be the original circuit board you can go to bootgod dyndns website called nescartdb nes cart database it shows all the original circuit boards. I found a Megaman 7 on super nes those where somewhat reproductions i looked on the website to see if it had the original board in it that was a lucky find made in mexico label on it but thought someone might of changed carts. I saw a donkey kong competition cart once some nut head changed the game its self and placed the original dk cart in it and took it out that sucked bad but had the case and all. So that is a good place to look or if you got a friend trying to sell you a bunch and you see a nice rare one in the bunch open it up and go to that website and look to see if you are not fimilar about cart circuit boards and see if you got the original ones in it and make sure they are no wires attached to them better condition better value. Some game companies around the world opens up carts and makes sure nothing is tampered with out here but these local game stores most just see a rare label and a power on and it works they happy lol.
I have a SNES with a messed up power jack and have just been using it as is and as long as I don't move the cable too much it seems to run fine. Are there any consequences if I continue using it that way? It's been like that for 15 or so years and I've played it off and on the whole time that way.
how do you get the power to plug into it tho? i just bought the replacement form console5, but wondering how to plug it in for now, i just need to test a repro i made
I decided to take my Super Famicom apart as had checkerboarding on the display even with c-sync cables and when I desoldered the connector I noticed the pins looked a little corroded Im at the point at putting it back together now just wondering if you think thats the reason?
The pins on the power jack? Doubtful. It could be a number of things, the voltage regulator could be bad, good chance there's bad capacitors, could be a bad trace somewhere, could be a failing IC, could be cold solder joints somewhere. Id say capacitors are the most likely culprit. Also ensure you're using a known good power supply. That can cause issues too
@@RetroRepairs Yeah, I did resolder them and no difference also resoldered that tiny piece on middle of left side of board basically looked for anything that could be easily resoldered. I did think capacitors but not sure which ones would need to replaced. All in with component cables the majority of the issue is gone but via RGB scart the issue is very noticable since I use a big screen tv, for power supply I used a Model 1 Mega Drive one which works fine with the AvFamicom, Master System and Mega Drive with no problems with the output. I could get another console cheap but it seems a waste.
@@RetroRepairs And forgot to say the reason for my thinking was there was yellow sticky suff (flux?) on the solder for the connector which is why I thought it might be that.
Yes, I've done a couple sega genesis and my n64 before. Made one blue and yellow, sonic scheme, the other was metallic grey with a yellow batman logo around the ring on the top.
If you spray paint yellowed plastic especially computers where you touch the computer will turn nasty shade of brown watch 8 bit guys videos of retrobriting
I've never used solder-braid, I have a solder-sucker (don't know the actual name) that is spring-loaded. I just heat up the solder, take the sucker and place it on the solder, press a button and presto! No solder! :)
Just bought an snes off facebook...doesnt workpower port is broken. When unopened up the snes there was all kinds of bug bodies...cig butts...it was gross in there.
They added bromide to the plastic formula to make the plastic more heat resistant, but it was not consistently added, and reacted to heat and light to change color.
I’m curious as I watch your videos and soldering techniques - of those I’ve watched to learn how to solder for myself. Unlike anyone else I’ve watched, you use a lot of flux before each solder... like a lot. At least it seems like a lot. My question is: why? I know it keeps things clean, but is it really making better solder joins? I just want to understand - thanks for any time you have to reply!
Potentially just weak solder joints. Flux is important in cleaning contacts and creating a strong bond. If you have too much flux, nothing bad will happen, just clean up the leftovers
RetroRepairs Got it - thanks for answering my curiosity. Looks like flux pens are a bit expensive, but worth a shot. Amazon has then for like $9~10/ea but I’m sure they last a while.
@@DustinHamiltonSituatedAction There is some cheaper flux than pens, like Mechanic brand (it is sold on Aliexpress and other chinese dealers)... If you can afford it, go for Kester/MG Chemicals, they are pretty good brands. Also check if it is a "no-clean" flux type, those are less corrosive and require little cleaning to get rid of residue, while tackier ones need more brushing to get the residues removed. Some fluxes are mild acidic and can (slowly) eat away traces, SMD components, etc if left uncleaned.
Both of those SERIOUSLY need retrobrite. You don't have to replace the shell. Just use H2O2 + either heat or UV. Or just put it in a Jaguar shell and pretend you make a retro game console!
Luckily you can skip them after a few seconds. Ads are how any youtuber is able to make any return off the time, equipment and effort that goes into all these videos that you watch for free.
Perfect video! Soldering can be a bit intimidating if you have never done it. This video gave me confidence to give it a shot to bring my old SNES back to life. Fixed it last night! Thanks again!
I really love watching these at night with a warm blanket for some reason. It’s just really relaxing and i have no idea why. Keep up the good work
I play your videos as I go to sleep at night, it feels like I learn things as I snooze. Omelette du Fromage
David Ethridge glad I'm not the only one.
Me too
Nice Dexter reference
They sell vibrating toothbrushes for like $5 with a battery in the handle... try one of those on the circuit boards your life will never be the same. I use it to clean car parts, removing carbon from throttle plates and inside little nooks and crannies on parts I have to disassemble, a vibrating toothbrush is a godsend. Makes the work even cleaner and much faster, totally worth the small price.
I’m doing this replacement tonight and thanks to your video I have full confidence, so thank you!
Thank you for your videos! I learn so much, and you always use tools that most of us have at home, so no need to buy that expensive specific soldering iron most of "how-to" videos use!
use an ice cube tray for holding and organizing screws as you take apart and reassemble electronics. Each individual cubs can either hold a different size screw, or a all the screws for the next 'step;; of the repair. Much easier to keep track of than just throwing all the screws in a metal dish.
For some more complex ones, such as even the n64, absolutely. Snes only has 4 different screw types, security screws, brass board screws, silver cart slot screws and small brass heatshield screws. Ive opened enough i know where they all go.
Can also use egg cartons or anything similar.
Great idea. I'm going to start doing that and I think I will hot glue a tiny magnet under each cube spot.
Actually what I have been using for years is a pill dispenser i.e one that has the days of the week on that way I can organise each screw into compartments and have a lid to close so if you knock it over they wont spill.
i'm loving all these new videos, i tend to find with desoldering using a combination of copper wick and a desolder pump gets the larger holes cleaned if you don't have a desoldering gun (which aren't always great for bigger pads anyway, they sometimes struggle to get hot enough)
Yeah. One of these days I'll invest in a pump, but for now, the wick will have to do.
For a long time i was using the crappy stuff, and hated it. It's amazing what a difference spending a bit more for the good stuff will make
@@RetroRepairs oh yeah massively so, i try to stick to 'gootwick' when i can afford it, the same applies to using good quality flux too.
I've heard stories of people being unsatisfied, possibly from buying fake gootwick. Mg chemicals superwick seems to have the best stuff I've tried yet, but haven't bought any goot before. Just bought 50' on amazon for $35cad, i liked it that much
@@RetroRepairs yeah fake branded products like gootwick and chipkwik flux is a huge issue
I Love this channel, it deserves more
Guy Hoffman, it sure does. I like these kind of videos myself. Helps us to learn to fix retro consoles like these if they are broken. So yes I agree
That SNES has had a rough life.
It died doing what it loved. Was resurrected to continue it's noble cause..
Why do people store their consoles outside instead of a closet or attic that's why they yellow
That's actually the SNES Burn-in Test cartridge I dumped. I guess people made reproduction boards from it without... regardless it should still work with any console because all it does is DMA open bus lines. The theme remixed to using Nintendo's N-SPC sound driver (same version used in the Super Scope 6 game) is the only remnant of the BS (Broadcast Satellaview) Zelda 2 that survived. Interesting because years ago one of our SNES consoles had the exact same issue with the power jack. We don't know how it happened with the previous owner but it did work and I was not old enough to know what had occured, just that it worked, really. Years later, now, I don't have the console and actually own a different unit which works.
20:06 "And it looks fine." Actually that circle transition isn't supposed to erase the bottom wood frame at any point. That was weird. Probably not too terribly important, but definitely weird.
Yeah, there's definitely something wrong going on there... At 20:13 you can also see a pipe on the bottom of the map border, and clouds at the top.
Thats over scan crap from using a huge flatscreen, on a 20 inch CRT it would look fine
Thank you. Fixed my power jack with this video.
Love your videos man, You have pretty steady hands! and a awesome camera, Only thing sometimes it's a bit to Zoomed in, Nice work mate.
First of all. I love your videos.
Now may I try and get you to get one of those simple plunger desoldering pumps. You will like it. And it is a little quicker than the wick. Secondly if you still want to use the wick. May i suggest putting the flux on the wick only. It will make it pick up the soldier better. Just a couple suggestions.
Keep up the videos !
He drowns the board in flux.
I'm digging these frequent uploads man, always good content
Thanks. Nice to finally have some time during the holidays to knock off some tasks.
There will be part two very shortly too
RetroRepairs Checking it out now!
idk why or how I got here but I'm glad i'm here
My DC jack was loose and power only worked when held a certain way. When I went to resolder the metal ring around where you solder came off. After soldering I now have no power at all. Is it because the metal came off and if it is how do I fix it?
Hi, ever had to work on controller port issue? Got that old SNES working, but only with controller 2 port which sucks. Weirdest thing is : if I plug the other controller in port 1, port 2 stops working too..?! I decided to open the thing and clean it, but no luck. So, could be the ribbon, could the port board, could be the ribbon connector soldered onto the main board. My question is: could it be linked to the fact that the AC power entry is broken (just like in your first video) and it is not the original AC power plug I'm using but a Chinese NES/SNES power plug ? At this point, I just feel like buying another snes would be cheapest, but still I'm frustrated being stuck on that old technology.
Thanks for another great video, Adam
Awesome videos! Keep it rolling. You're on your way Adam!
Looking for someone to fix my old childhood snes.
It still technically works, but the plastic inside of the power jack is half broken off, 15 years ago a cat peed on it which mostly only effected the outside. I took mine apart the the board is actually fairly clean.
The main problem I have with mine is sometimes the games take a few attempts to get started up, I want to say I see a line in the middle of the screen sometime via composite.
Mostly I want to hook my rad2x upscaler cable to it, however I appear to be seeing sync issues. The console will still work via composite, but appears to not be stable enough of a signal for the RGB the RAD2X picks up.
I hooked my RAD2X up to my Nintendo 64, and that actually works flawlessly.
I accidentally burned off the thin Metal Contacts on the motherboard board trying to desolder the broken power Jack....Does anyone know if My Snes is ruined now? I got a power cord in today and was not able to get it to turn on. I'm not sure If I didn't solder correctly or if I completely ruined my Snes. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
"Keep your stuff in good shape and there is no need for repairs"
But this channel is all about it :P
Well great job here ! I'd probably give up on installing original power socket and do a mod, simply rip out the remaining power jack, install one of those standart barrel jacks - for example those used for led stripes, actually life savers in some occasions - and glue it together. Yeah I know, thats not the spirit :P fortunately you had replacement one for the original SNES.
Recently I used the barrel jack for rescueing the Raspberry Pi computer, and it works great. I'm not that good to solder the original microUSB port, I'd most surely bridge something and whole board would be dead. Not to mention I dont like this type of connection since its prone to lose the connectivity after plugging and unplugging it numerous times. Had that happened in my cell phones.
Well the heck can I get the snes test cartridge I can’t find on e
Great video, this job is next on my to-do list.
I tried to fix my power cable by soldering the wire straight to the - & + terminals. I I didn't know which was + & - & I think I burn out a circuit. I saw the circuit glow & woldn't turn on again. Any idea what I might have to replace or how to find what burn out?
Mine is busted like that to . However it powers up but i usually get a black or static looking screen even after cleaning the cartridge slot. Could mine be getting enough voltage to turn the light on but low enough voltage to cause the board to not function as it should ?
Any idea how to repair a green graphics issue? My SNES has green-tinted graphics, like the red has been turned all the way down. I took it apart and don't see any control knobs to adjust the colors like the old Atari 2600, and can't find any repair info about it online.
I personally just added a piece of tape to the top of it and it holds nicely
Which of those pads on the board for the jack are for positive and which is for negative? I have the same issue but I've taken a power jack off of a router to use since it fits perfectly and doesn't use a weird connector but I'm not sure which is positive and negative so I haven't been able to plug it in yet for fear that it'll be wired backwards and blow something up...
Snes uses a negative center plug, so you'll have to trace the old Jack. Usually the centre pin is the back one, but you should test it to be sure.
It's just me or there is a graphical error at 20:08?
yea, there was a graphical error
lol I was just wondering about that
Any chance you can make a video for the SNES CPU replacement?
Yes, but i need to removeand test the cpus from all my dead snes. I want to build a socketed test board, but have not had the time
Hello Adam I need help with my
Super Nintendo it got stepped on do you have any top part of the cover by power switch broken how much for you to fix my supper Nintendo
Why do you add additional solder first before removing?
Adding new solder first helps make the solder flow better, and wick up into the solder braid better. Old solder can get oxidized and tough to come up.
i have the same issue with my SNES mini. (SNS-101) I am having issues finding the replacement board.
That SNES has been eaten by mice.
The mice says taste like chesee
Will I blow the fuse if a power switch lead hits the shielding/ground? I think I just did that by accident.
Definitely. That's what it's there for. If that happens, test the fuse with a multimeter, odds are you'll need to replace it.
and for the snes jr exists?
what soldering iron are you using there pal?
Hakko fx-888d
I got one just like that, that's in perfect condition that has the same problem. I just ain't got around to fix it yet as I have no games at this time to play in it. I repair those nes games and consoles like new. 20+ years experience. I got inside one once and it was a disaster area someone had flux paste all inside of it, it look like flux paste it could've been melted board solder look like someone resolder the whole entire motherboard it was a wreck. I got it working somewhat the motherboard was almost shot in it. Too many line breaks to mess with I just left it as is. My friend wanted me to repair it enough where he could trade it or re sell it to someone it worked at a 70% good level not to 100% but 98% of them without replacing 72 pins in them i can take any old pin they are and gut anything and place on the system and get it working at 100% like it came out of a new box. I've had game carts looks like someone dragged out of a swamp and fixed them like new. I bought some off this person once they were only one defected game cart and it was cheap so I never messed with it wasn't worth wasting my time on only a Tetris gray cart on Nintendo if it was a Tengen yes I would had time to repair it. Some people repair them by resoldering the eeproms intact from different other games that is a hassle to do most times its best to re do them like your doing it easier that way. So most of you that go on Ebay and such places that others have games that you think that is the real deal and they got the game cart open that you think might be the original circuit board you can go to bootgod dyndns website called nescartdb nes cart database it shows all the original circuit boards. I found a Megaman 7 on super nes those where somewhat reproductions i looked on the website to see if it had the original board in it that was a lucky find made in mexico label on it but thought someone might of changed carts. I saw a donkey kong competition cart once some nut head changed the game its self and placed the original dk cart in it and took it out that sucked bad but had the case and all. So that is a good place to look or if you got a friend trying to sell you a bunch and you see a nice rare one in the bunch open it up and go to that website and look to see if you are not fimilar about cart circuit boards and see if you got the original ones in it and make sure they are no wires attached to them better condition better value. Some game companies around the world opens up carts and makes sure nothing is tampered with out here but these local game stores most just see a rare label and a power on and it works they happy lol.
I have a SNES with a messed up power jack and have just been using it as is and as long as I don't move the cable too much it seems to run fine. Are there any consequences if I continue using it that way? It's been like that for 15 or so years and I've played it off and on the whole time that way.
how do you get the power to plug into it tho? i just bought the replacement form console5, but wondering how to plug it in for now, i just need to test a repro i made
I decided to take my Super Famicom apart as had checkerboarding on the display even with c-sync cables and when I desoldered the connector I noticed the pins looked a little corroded Im at the point at putting it back together now just wondering if you think thats the reason?
The pins on the power jack? Doubtful. It could be a number of things, the voltage regulator could be bad, good chance there's bad capacitors, could be a bad trace somewhere, could be a failing IC, could be cold solder joints somewhere.
Id say capacitors are the most likely culprit. Also ensure you're using a known good power supply. That can cause issues too
@@RetroRepairs Yeah, I did resolder them and no difference also resoldered that tiny piece on middle of left side of board basically looked for anything that could be easily resoldered. I did think capacitors but not sure which ones would need to replaced. All in with component cables the majority of the issue is gone but via RGB scart the issue is very noticable since I use a big screen tv, for power supply I used a Model 1 Mega Drive one which works fine with the AvFamicom, Master System and Mega Drive with no problems with the output. I could get another console cheap but it seems a waste.
@@RetroRepairs And forgot to say the reason for my thinking was there was yellow sticky suff (flux?) on the solder for the connector which is why I thought it might be that.
can you do a GameCube one since my GameCube doesn’t read any games. And I take VERY, VERY good care of the discs.
I just found an SNES lot with 2 controllers and 2 RF switches for something like 20 bucks on eBay and might scoop it up after seeing this :)
Jump on it. That's a good deal
Did you buy it in time?
@@inputfunny sadly I did not, got sniped right out from under me :( you win some you lose some
@@eatsleepdie8808 Yeah if it's a really good deal like that; you have maybe less than a minute to decide if you want it or not.
Have you ever thought about spray painting the shells to make them look new or unique?
Yes, I've done a couple sega genesis and my n64 before. Made one blue and yellow, sonic scheme, the other was metallic grey with a yellow batman logo around the ring on the top.
If you spray paint yellowed plastic especially computers where you touch the computer will turn nasty shade of brown watch 8 bit guys videos of retrobriting
Is the same process if my SNES dont have the soldered pins and the soundcard?
Yes, exact same part and method, you just don't have to remove the shvc card
@@RetroRepairs thanks mate my SNES dont have a soundcard but the soundcard conector isn't present on the motherboard
I've never used solder-braid, I have a solder-sucker (don't know the actual name) that is spring-loaded. I just heat up the solder, take the sucker and place it on the solder, press a button and presto! No solder! :)
Solder braid is Really handy for surface mount components, the sucker is best for through hole stuff.
Just bought an snes off facebook...doesnt workpower port is broken. When unopened up the snes there was all kinds of bug bodies...cig butts...it was gross in there.
Gross. Don't keep that in your house, you don't want to bring in roaches. Clean it well or get rid of it
@@RetroRepairs no roaches. Was rolliepolli bugs. Still gross... changed the port, checked the fuse and the power supply and it still wont power up. :(
Cant you remove the yellowing on the shell with hydrogen peroxide and uv light?
That's what I usually do and after I rub a little Maguire's #40 plastic conditioner into it.
Submerge in a crate and set out in the sun and som hydrogen peroxide
How many Watts are you soldering station/pen on?
Why did all the SNES consoles turn yellow like that?
They added bromide to the plastic formula to make the plastic more heat resistant, but it was not consistently added, and reacted to heat and light to change color.
Where did you get the burn in and test cart?
Ebay, it's a repro, but cost about $30
whered you get the test cart from
It's a repro from ebay, but i dont see any right now. Genuine ones are about $2,000
So i have to ask do you have a background in doing this or just decided to do it one day?
No background in electronics. I've always been a diy kinda guy, so somehow came to the conclusion i would try fix up retro games.
Good stuff, nicely done.
Use some needle nosed pliers and rip out the plastic tabs in the bottom of the cartridge slot. Imported Japanese Super Famicom games will work on it.
Amazing video as always
Nice job man! Thanks for the wonderful video and have a sub with the bell...
Nothing like using a filthy toothbrush to clean cartridge connectors.
You’re back!!!!
I’m curious as I watch your videos and soldering techniques - of those I’ve watched to learn how to solder for myself. Unlike anyone else I’ve watched, you use a lot of flux before each solder... like a lot. At least it seems like a lot. My question is: why? I know it keeps things clean, but is it really making better solder joins? I just want to understand - thanks for any time you have to reply!
I subscribe to the idea that there's no such thing as too much flux. More wont hurt it, but too less can.
RetroRepairs What kinds of things happen when too little flux is used? What kinds of things would be noticed?
Potentially just weak solder joints. Flux is important in cleaning contacts and creating a strong bond. If you have too much flux, nothing bad will happen, just clean up the leftovers
RetroRepairs Got it - thanks for answering my curiosity. Looks like flux pens are a bit expensive, but worth a shot. Amazon has then for like $9~10/ea but I’m sure they last a while.
@@DustinHamiltonSituatedAction There is some cheaper flux than pens, like Mechanic brand (it is sold on Aliexpress and other chinese dealers)... If you can afford it, go for Kester/MG Chemicals, they are pretty good brands. Also check if it is a "no-clean" flux type, those are less corrosive and require little cleaning to get rid of residue, while tackier ones need more brushing to get the residues removed. Some fluxes are mild acidic and can (slowly) eat away traces, SMD components, etc if left uncleaned.
stupid question, what is your intro music???
Something that someone made for my channel, they thought the intro card needed some retro music. Not sure if it was inspired by anything specific.
@@RetroRepairs nice. thanks for the response... I really like it, so I was curious :)
@@MrXxjdm I made it, it wasn't really inspired by anything I just wanted to contribute.
@@echangwang1821 well, you did great work!
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5:12 You have a super nes with batteries? lol You mean power port and not charging port. lol
Yep. I used to work selling phones, just cant not call it a charging port.
Retrobrite that case
OMG, do you have ANY idea how UNEXPENSIVE is one desoudering gun f.f.s 😒
Yep. Couple hundred bucks. Ffs
Both of those SERIOUSLY need retrobrite. You don't have to replace the shell. Just use H2O2 + either heat or UV. Or just put it in a Jaguar shell and pretend you make a retro game console!
I'd never waste a jaguar shell on a snes.
@@RetroRepairs I know, it was a joke. Based on that "Coleco Chameleon" thing.
@@RetroRepairs remember that Jaguar shells were reused for some dental stuff some years ago. And I saw some people reapplying them on real consoles
Retrobrite makes the plastic brittle.. They re-yellow after a while too
@@mikecollins7704 Not from what I've observed. I've seen things much worse than this retrobrited without it coming back after several years.
good
Ha ha ha. I use a Famicom-adapter and Done!!!!!!
I got a working one for x mas
Nice!
me too
👍
Can't watch because of ad's.
Luckily you can skip them after a few seconds. Ads are how any youtuber is able to make any return off the time, equipment and effort that goes into all these videos that you watch for free.
That's not the right way to spell ADD.
Fixing Fucking Retro Ebay Junk :D Sounds much better!
I have a secret I♥ ♥u♥s♥e♥ ♥e♥m♥u♥l♥a♥t♥o♥r♥s