Really informative. My dad had a Leica IIIc and sadly he passed away in 2011. My mum gave me his camera bag to look through and there were 4 lenses. The Jupiter 11 being one of them. I’m so glad I didn’t sell them instead have started using them with my Fuji XT-2. Love the colours they produce and am enjoying learning about the history of the lens and seeing how people use their version. Thank you so much
Thanks for this review. I bought a Jupiter 11 F4/135mm in London in 1971, for use with my Zenit B, which I bought in 1970 and which came with the Helios 44 F2/58mm lense, which was made in the MMZ factory in 1968. The Jupiter has a date number of 1969 and I find it perfect for Portraiture and has a Black body, with white lettering. Good colour saturation and sharpness. Can't say as I can totally agree with your comments about the sharpness at F4 and F5.6, as I've never used it with Colour film for making prints. All of my printing was done on Black & White, for Club Competitions; using Kodak Tri-X and Ilford FP4. Likewise, all my colour work was with Slide. I used a combination of Agfa; Fuji and Kodachrome; depending on time, place and subject. Thanks to you, I now know where my Jupiter was made, as I hadn't been able to identify the Makers Mark. Nice to know that something good came out of Nazi Germany.
They last a long time don't they! I think my comments about sharpness at f/4 and f/5.6 probably don't translate directly when talking about film, and overall it's a very sharp lens, no matter how you look at it. Thanks for watching.
I have a black Jupiter 11 ,the one with the pre set aperture ,1968 by the serial number. One interesting feature is the focusing scale which rotates 360 degrees almost ,it is marked in metres with numbers from 1.4 ,2, 2.8, 4, 5.6, 8, 11, 16, 22, 32, and finally 45 before infinity . These of course are the same as the aperture settings used on all camera lenses .
Nice review. My guess is that the aperture ring is correctly assembled. All my soviet era preset aperture lenses works the same way. The point mark in front of the preset ring shows the correct preset value . When the mark on the aperture ring is corresponding the mark in front of the preset ring, are the aperture wide open, whatever number is set. When you turn the aperture ring towards the lowest number (wide open), the aperture will close to the preset value.
Thanks! I would tend to think the same, but I still find it a bit strange to use, I have a Jupiter-37A which has what I would call a "normal" aperture preset mechanism that kind of does exactly what I'd expect it to.
@@SovietLensReviews As far as I understand, the preset aperture of the jupiter 37, is of a different design than the earlier Soviet lenses. I have the Helios 40, Helios 44, Helios 44-2, and the Mir-1B, and they're all of the same preset aperture design. Well, almost the same design. The Helios 40 is mirrored/inverted, so it has to be turned the opposite direction, but the numbers still don't match. It kind of make sense, if you recon that the aperture value are valid only for the front ring, and that the second ring are used to activate the given value like an on/off switch.
@@sidekickbob7227 Interesting, thanks for the info! I think all of my lenses with the aperture presets are 80s or later thinking about it, so that makes sense.
Looks great and I like the earlier versions like the one you have due to that highly desirable chrome/metal look, even if it doesn't have the build-in hood.
Yours looks almost like one of my copies (the mirror M39 thread). I also have a black one fatter version in M42. And I have thin and long silver in M39 LTM rangefinder thread.
Thanks! I would actually say if you're doing video work, the Jupiter 11 is the one to go for, because it does have a drastically different look from any semi-modern 135mm lens and works well in video where you're often not needing a lens with as much 'dynamic range'. For photography, you will get cleaner shots and nice contrast with the 37a, so go with that.
@@SovietLensReviews Ближнее к передней линзе кольцо управляет непосредственно диафрагмой, следующее за ним кольцо управляет диапазоном прикрытия диафрагмы. То есть сначала выбираете диапазон, например f8, а потом фокусируетесь на f4, прикрываете диафрагму до f8 и делаете снимок. Все надписи на объективе должны читаться не перевёрнутыми от глаз фотографа. Если это не так, просто переверните кольцо диафрагмы. Потребуется отвертка 1мм и 5 минут времени :)
Really informative. My dad had a Leica IIIc and sadly he passed away in 2011. My mum gave me his camera bag to look through and there were 4 lenses. The Jupiter 11 being one of them. I’m so glad I didn’t sell them instead have started using them with my Fuji XT-2. Love the colours they produce and am enjoying learning about the history of the lens and seeing how people use their version. Thank you so much
Thanks for watching! Good move on not selling the Jupiter, there will be a time when these are even more sought after than they already are.
Tried a Helios M44-2 on R6, looks sharp and actually has less aberation than Canon RF 50 STM.
Thanks for this review. I bought a Jupiter 11 F4/135mm in London in 1971, for use with my Zenit B, which I bought in 1970 and which came with the Helios 44 F2/58mm lense, which was made in the MMZ factory in 1968. The Jupiter has a date number of 1969 and I find it perfect for Portraiture and has a Black body, with white lettering. Good colour saturation and sharpness. Can't say as I can totally agree with your comments about the sharpness at F4 and F5.6, as I've never used it with Colour film for making prints. All of my printing was done on Black & White, for Club Competitions; using Kodak Tri-X and Ilford FP4. Likewise, all my colour work was with Slide. I used a combination of Agfa; Fuji and Kodachrome; depending on time, place and subject. Thanks to you, I now know where my Jupiter was made, as I hadn't been able to identify the Makers Mark. Nice to know that something good came out of Nazi Germany.
They last a long time don't they! I think my comments about sharpness at f/4 and f/5.6 probably don't translate directly when talking about film, and overall it's a very sharp lens, no matter how you look at it. Thanks for watching.
I have a black Jupiter 11 ,the one with the pre set aperture ,1968 by the serial number. One interesting feature is the focusing scale which rotates 360 degrees almost ,it is marked in metres with numbers from 1.4 ,2, 2.8, 4, 5.6, 8, 11, 16, 22, 32, and finally 45 before infinity . These of course are the same as the aperture settings used on all camera lenses .
I have a 1973 model. All black. Damn good lens.
Highly educational! I got one of these lenses...you did help me to understand them...I am grateful!!!
Thanks for watching Roberto, enjoy your lens!
I have the thinner longer version of this. It's a real conversation starter, It's AMAZING for studio work.
The silver appearance really gets people talking! Can imagine it'd be great fun in a studio.
Nice review. My guess is that the aperture ring is correctly assembled. All my soviet era preset aperture lenses works the same way. The point mark in front of the preset ring shows the correct preset value . When the mark on the aperture ring is corresponding the mark in front of the preset ring, are the aperture wide open, whatever number is set. When you turn the aperture ring towards the lowest number (wide open), the aperture will close to the preset value.
Thanks! I would tend to think the same, but I still find it a bit strange to use, I have a Jupiter-37A which has what I would call a "normal" aperture preset mechanism that kind of does exactly what I'd expect it to.
@@SovietLensReviews As far as I understand, the preset aperture of the jupiter 37, is of a different design than the earlier Soviet lenses. I have the Helios 40, Helios 44, Helios 44-2, and the Mir-1B, and they're all of the same preset aperture design. Well, almost the same design. The Helios 40 is mirrored/inverted, so it has to be turned the opposite direction, but the numbers still don't match. It kind of make sense, if you recon that the aperture value are valid only for the front ring, and that the second ring are used to activate the given value like an on/off switch.
@@sidekickbob7227 Interesting, thanks for the info! I think all of my lenses with the aperture presets are 80s or later thinking about it, so that makes sense.
thanks for this video! I found one on sale in a store nearby that comes with a lens hood. That seems to be pretty rare
Lens hoods for these aren't common! That's a great find.
Update: I still regret I didn't buy it... but I bought a Jupiter-6 instead :)
Looks great and I like the earlier versions like the one you have due to that highly desirable chrome/metal look, even if it doesn't have the build-in hood.
For sure, the silver metal looks amazing IRL as well, definitely an eye-catcher!
Spasibo, tovarish! Thanks, mate! Great review! 👍
Thanks for watching mate!
great review! Thank you for sharing :)
- Informative and in a pleasant way. Thank You.
Thanks for the nice review. I have the silver m39 Fat Boy and I bought a 40,5 mm thread lenshood in China (Aliexpress).
Nice! It's a good idea to buy a lenshood for it.
Yours looks almost like one of my copies (the mirror M39 thread). I also have a black one fatter version in M42. And I have thin and long silver in M39 LTM rangefinder thread.
Awesome, sounds like a great collection!
Good work, keep it up, tovarisch! :D
Actually subscribed
Appreciate your reviews. Which lens would you prefer...Jupiter 37a or Jupiter 11?
Thanks! I would actually say if you're doing video work, the Jupiter 11 is the one to go for, because it does have a drastically different look from any semi-modern 135mm lens and works well in video where you're often not needing a lens with as much 'dynamic range'.
For photography, you will get cleaner shots and nice contrast with the 37a, so go with that.
I would say it more depends on the particular copy. They are both good lenses. And if the cost and weight are not of concern, I would say Tair-11. )
@@manichaean1888 Great advice! I still have yet to get my hands on a Tair-11, but have heard a lot of good things about it
:))) Объектив вполне исправен в части диафрагмы. Так работает кольцо предустановки диафрагмы на многих объективах СССР
Интересно, у меня многие советский объективы, но не другой работает как его. Я нужен более 😁
@@SovietLensReviews Ближнее к передней линзе кольцо управляет непосредственно диафрагмой, следующее за ним кольцо управляет диапазоном прикрытия диафрагмы. То есть сначала выбираете диапазон, например f8, а потом фокусируетесь на f4, прикрываете диафрагму до f8 и делаете снимок. Все надписи на объективе должны читаться не перевёрнутыми от глаз фотографа. Если это не так, просто переверните кольцо диафрагмы. Потребуется отвертка 1мм и 5 минут времени :)
good effort on the channel and the video content!
Thanks for watching!