Do you plan on walking through the tuning process? Would love to see that. The UA-cam vids in that topic are sparse at best and don't really explain what each step does....why one picks 88 vs 90 and so on. If I plan on carving like a champ....Ill need to build tuning skills too 😊. Thanks!!
I have a basic edge tuning tool with just a blue diamond stone (and a file for really hardcore stuff) and I'm thinking of getting something for that finishing touch. I was convinced I should get a gummy stone, but could I benefit more from having a ceramic stone instead? Either way is obviously suboptimal compared to having 6 premium stones 😀
The best thing to get as a useful, functional side edge starter kit is a file guide that allows for different files/stones to be clamped to it (the little One Ball Jay or Dakine ones with the small, readily inserted file for $20.00 are ...sorry... garbage! :-) ), two files (10 cut / 14 cut; 10 to set the angle, 14 to make it finer), one medium diamond stone (400 grit) and a gummi stone to take off that fine burr that filing can leave behind. The gummi is not for polishing. Better would be a finer diamond, like 600 grit. Ceramic stones are great, too. They harden the edge. But be careful, some are called ceramic stones and cost $5.00.... (One Ball Jay). They're not the same as a ceramic stone for $50.00... Finding a fine diamond is likely easier. Doing what I'm doing here is way more than any average person would need. The 1000 grit diamond and the ceramic stones are totally optional 1st world spoiled Lars additions and really only used for race tunes... :-)
I’ve been riding since the mid 90s and your videos are extremely useful. I’m currently looking for a new board and my short list is a 127 Biru or a 162 wide Decender, I’m 180 tall and 90kg in all my gear and my book length is just under 300mm, so any views which board is good for both powder and carving would be much appreciated?
Biru is a great allrounder, much quicker turning than the Descender. Descender is a calmer, more stable freeride vibe.... Floats a little better than Biru and draws a larger turn on groomers. Very different boards. Can't compare the two, really. Biru is freestyle/carving/allmountain, Descender is freeride/powder.... carving on it is great, but might require more skill.
Thanks for your insight on what sounds like two great boards. I’m hoping to be able to see them in my local shop in Keswick England, the Biru does sound potentially more fun. I did lie to my wife and say that your advice was to buy both 😅@@Justaride-Snowboard-Channel
Do you have an affiliate link to the products you're using? Going to buy them anyway, but if the purchase could also help support this amazing channel, I'd rather go that route. Love your videos and expertise.
That's very kind of you! If you're in Canada, you can get this stuff through me. I'm not 'supported' by Sidecut, but I'm running my own little snowboard tuning shop and I am allowed to act as a dealer. So I can sell these things to you myself. I'm about to place an order, so your timing is perfect.... Email me to lars.justaride@gmail.com, and we can figure this out, if you want!
Do you ever remove sidewall material on your boards to expose the edge? I have been tuning my own board for a while but I can never seem to get the edge grip that I want for hardpack/icy conditions.
Absolutely! Eventually you will have to remove sidewall in order to not mess up the angle your side edge guide gives you. You can remove sidewall with a panzer file, those super coarse ones...., or ideally with a sidewall removal tool, which is silly expensive.
@@Justaride-Snowboard-Channel, can you please cover this topic (removing sidewall) in the future? E.g why this is needed, when this process is necessary, which tools one can use for that, how to use those tools and etc.
Hello, I would appreciate this too, I use to both remove sidecut Wall and use files down to 1500 from 100, though I would likes ti check out the proces since sidecut preparation Is so important for getting consistente performance on the snow. I also have an issue with sidecut shape yes boards have, the tuning tool i have Is not alle to Copy well.
@@edoardodimacco9325 i think you mean 'sidewall'. Anyhow, yes, it's important, but you kinda just do it once... and also not right away... A proper tool is very expensive for such little use, and it needs practice to use it well without causing damage. It might be a much better idea to take it to a shop and pay them 10 bucks to do it, and then it's done... Sidewall only needs to be removed when it gets in the way of the edge. So that really doesn't happen that often, in particular when it's been done once. But I will mention this in a video! Cheers!!
1°or 1.5°. On really wide boards the greater base bevel makes the board 'roll' onto the edge easier. But 95% of the time I'm on a 1° base bevel with either 88° or 87° side edge.
@@Justaride-Snowboard-ChannelI’d be interested in seeing some content about base edge bevels for snowboards. It seems many brads come from the factory with no bevel and I would assume that most riders could benefit from a little bevel. Would you agree?
@@ODBracer I have a video on base bevel here. I don't think what you say is quite true. Most boards are set to 1° base bevel from the factory. A board without base bevel is pretty much unrideable. A company could potentially kill their reputation within one season, if they forgot the base bevel, that's how wildly awful it is to ride without bb. Even Gentemstick boards, which state to give the boards a tune before riding and to do a 1° bevel, are actually bevelled from the factory (at least the ones I've tuned at a Gentem dealer freshly from the wrapper). I'd say it is more likely to have too much bevel than not enough - that at least is what I've come across for the most part in over a decade of tuning in a shop.
Never Summer boards have 0° base bevel, at least they say that in their FAQ: "All Never Summer snowboards are not beveled with our factory finish tune. They have a flat grind or 0/90 degree grind. There is a 0 degree grind on a side edge, and the base edge will be ground flat with the base grind." I have a NS board and I can confirm that, at least when I check it using a ruler and compare it to my Salomon board (which has 1° base bevel).
Bloody fabulous 👌 😊
Do you plan on walking through the tuning process? Would love to see that. The UA-cam vids in that topic are sparse at best and don't really explain what each step does....why one picks 88 vs 90 and so on. If I plan on carving like a champ....Ill need to build tuning skills too 😊. Thanks!!
Yeah, I'll be doing that pretty soon here. Stay 'tuned' ;-)
I may not notice but it would make the process more pleasurable 😂
I have a basic edge tuning tool with just a blue diamond stone (and a file for really hardcore stuff) and I'm thinking of getting something for that finishing touch. I was convinced I should get a gummy stone, but could I benefit more from having a ceramic stone instead? Either way is obviously suboptimal compared to having 6 premium stones 😀
The best thing to get as a useful, functional side edge starter kit is a file guide that allows for different files/stones to be clamped to it (the little One Ball Jay or Dakine ones with the small, readily inserted file for $20.00 are ...sorry... garbage! :-) ), two files (10 cut / 14 cut; 10 to set the angle, 14 to make it finer), one medium diamond stone (400 grit) and a gummi stone to take off that fine burr that filing can leave behind. The gummi is not for polishing. Better would be a finer diamond, like 600 grit. Ceramic stones are great, too. They harden the edge. But be careful, some are called ceramic stones and cost $5.00.... (One Ball Jay). They're not the same as a ceramic stone for $50.00... Finding a fine diamond is likely easier.
Doing what I'm doing here is way more than any average person would need.
The 1000 grit diamond and the ceramic stones are totally optional 1st world spoiled Lars additions and really only used for race tunes... :-)
I’ve been riding since the mid 90s and your videos are extremely useful. I’m currently looking for a new board and my short list is a 127 Biru or a 162 wide Decender, I’m 180 tall and 90kg in all my gear and my book length is just under 300mm, so any views which board is good for both powder and carving would be much appreciated?
Biru is a great allrounder, much quicker turning than the Descender. Descender is a calmer, more stable freeride vibe.... Floats a little better than Biru and draws a larger turn on groomers. Very different boards. Can't compare the two, really. Biru is freestyle/carving/allmountain, Descender is freeride/powder.... carving on it is great, but might require more skill.
Thanks for your insight on what sounds like two great boards. I’m hoping to be able to see them in my local shop in Keswick England, the Biru does sound potentially more fun. I did lie to my wife and say that your advice was to buy both 😅@@Justaride-Snowboard-Channel
Do you have an affiliate link to the products you're using?
Going to buy them anyway, but if the purchase could also help support this amazing channel, I'd rather go that route. Love your videos and expertise.
That's very kind of you! If you're in Canada, you can get this stuff through me. I'm not 'supported' by Sidecut, but I'm running my own little snowboard tuning shop and I am allowed to act as a dealer. So I can sell these things to you myself. I'm about to place an order, so your timing is perfect.... Email me to lars.justaride@gmail.com, and we can figure this out, if you want!
Do you ever remove sidewall material on your boards to expose the edge? I have been tuning my own board for a while but I can never seem to get the edge grip that I want for hardpack/icy conditions.
Absolutely!
Eventually you will have to remove sidewall in order to not mess up the angle your side edge guide gives you. You can remove sidewall with a panzer file, those super coarse ones...., or ideally with a sidewall removal tool, which is silly expensive.
@@Justaride-Snowboard-Channel, can you please cover this topic (removing sidewall) in the future? E.g why this is needed, when this process is necessary, which tools one can use for that, how to use those tools and etc.
@@tarvi301 Yes, I'll do that with the edge tuning video, I think.
Hello, I would appreciate this too, I use to both remove sidecut Wall and use files down to 1500 from 100, though I would likes ti check out the proces since sidecut preparation Is so important for getting consistente performance on the snow. I also have an issue with sidecut shape yes boards have, the tuning tool i have Is not alle to Copy well.
@@edoardodimacco9325 i think you mean 'sidewall'.
Anyhow, yes, it's important, but you kinda just do it once... and also not right away... A proper tool is very expensive for such little use, and it needs practice to use it well without causing damage. It might be a much better idea to take it to a shop and pay them 10 bucks to do it, and then it's done... Sidewall only needs to be removed when it gets in the way of the edge. So that really doesn't happen that often, in particular when it's been done once.
But I will mention this in a video! Cheers!!
Your accent is so soothing my dude. Are these tools expensive? I’ll have to google
Hahahahahaha..... that nice, warm, smooth German accent! Hahahahaha....
Yes, the tools are rather expensive. You get what you pay for, though.
Can you do a tutorial step by step??
@@bankersbaux Snowboard edge tuning 101 // Full tutorial
ua-cam.com/video/VLqp8V5p58Q/v-deo.html
@@Justaride-Snowboard-Channel what tools would you recommend to buy do you sell them? (:
@@bankersbaux I do. Email me to lars.justaride@gmail.com
Just curious, do you ride a .5 degree base edge or 1 degree?
1°or 1.5°. On really wide boards the greater base bevel makes the board 'roll' onto the edge easier. But 95% of the time I'm on a 1° base bevel with either 88° or 87° side edge.
@@Justaride-Snowboard-ChannelI’d be interested in seeing some content about base edge bevels for snowboards. It seems many brads come from the factory with no bevel and I would assume that most riders could benefit from a little bevel. Would you agree?
@@ODBracer I have a video on base bevel here.
I don't think what you say is quite true. Most boards are set to 1° base bevel from the factory. A board without base bevel is pretty much unrideable. A company could potentially kill their reputation within one season, if they forgot the base bevel, that's how wildly awful it is to ride without bb. Even Gentemstick boards, which state to give the boards a tune before riding and to do a 1° bevel, are actually bevelled from the factory (at least the ones I've tuned at a Gentem dealer freshly from the wrapper).
I'd say it is more likely to have too much bevel than not enough - that at least is what I've come across for the most part in over a decade of tuning in a shop.
Never Summer boards have 0° base bevel, at least they say that in their FAQ: "All Never Summer snowboards are not beveled with our factory finish tune. They have a flat grind or 0/90 degree grind. There is a 0 degree grind on a side edge, and the base edge will be ground flat with the base grind."
I have a NS board and I can confirm that, at least when I check it using a ruler and compare it to my Salomon board (which has 1° base bevel).
@@tarvi301 thanks for contributing. This blows my mind! Wild! I had no idea. I wonder what their take on that is...
Not a bad way to spend 500 bucks and get your boards dialed every time.
Yes, these tools are very expensive. But as it is with all tools, shitty ones suck!!! 😎