2010 3.7L Jeep Liberty Head Gasket Replacement part 2: Reassembly and Startup
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- Опубліковано 19 вер 2024
- Well, wild enough, reading from the manual and watching a few other UA-cam videos was enough to get this done right. The Jeep is running well now and should be for a good long while.
Jeep Manual: www.iwantajeep....
Instagram @AllThingsBoost
![Jeep Cherokee: Cylinder Head Gasket Replacement Procedure/ 0331 TUPY 4.0L ['96-'01 XJ]](/img/n.gif)
Thanks for the upload of this video. I referenced it a couple of times when I replaced the head gaskets on my friend's son's 2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee with the 3.7 and he's quiet happy with it now. Thanks again.
What a great repair! I think it's going to last a long time. I don't think even a dealer could have done as good of a job.
Love the confidence man! Hope so!
@@AllThingsBoost I know the way he was cleaning everything, cant see anyone in service repair doing that!
Yes we dont know how to clean anything because we love come backs and doing it for free the second time, i dont speak for all mechanics but me personally i strive for perfection and ffv my lively hood depends on it
@@AllThingsBoost how did this repair last? I don't think you ever updated us.
@@jmsikorski1988 we need more technicians like you.
Thank you so much for doing this video . My reference for head gaskets on my 2007 Dakota 3.7 . You are the MAN !
Both part videos are very good content and well done. Get's annoying having to turn down the music, then turn you back up. Maybe for future reference. Great job.
Trackin on the music, I'll have to pay closer attention and balance it out better in editing. Everyone's sound system is different and it didnt stand out as an issue on mine. Thanks
@@AllThingsBoost All good! Great job got a sub out of me.
Yeah, wearing headphones was an issue as I had to quickly take them off my ears so the music didn't blast. But a great video otherwise.
awesome job, thank you. i have a dodge nitro with the same engine and problem, water in #2, i'm assuming it's due to water pump failure and over heating
Great work.
Head bolts should typically stretch after they’re torqued down good idea on not using them again
How to stop the camshaft to apply torque adjustment
Are head gaskets a common problem with these 3.7L V6 engines??
Where did you purchase your head gasket replacement kit?
99% sure I got just about all the parts off rockauto. Just stick with well known brands like mahle and felpro or if you can OEM Mopar
Great vid bro, did you have to remove the cams inorder to send to the machine shop?
I did not, asked the machine shop to disassemble and reassemble them for me
Thanks for asking this! I had the same question.
Hi, thanks for you video , i need the reference or where i can find the correctly torque for de head , sorry for my english i dont speak english so god
Thanks, from tijuana mexico
The manual I used is linked in the video description.
I have an 05 KJ. I think i have coolant leaking into the combustion area and being burned off causing a random misfire at a 147rpm or 244rpm at first startup. It would idle a little ruff then smooth 2 minutes after. There is no white smoke while driving though.
I havent gone to my mechanic yet but asked them to check it out.
He said it will cost between 2k to 3k Canadian, to replace the headgasket (if it is the gasket). Maybe he was just throwing random prices around. He said swapping a used 3.7 would be cheaper. However, how would i know if the engine and headgasket is in good condition on the used engine?
Its best to replace the gasket because my current engine runs smooth and idles smooth and is quiet.
Without running the new engine, about all you can do is a leak down test.
On your current engine, use a coolant test kit to see if any combustion gasses are getting into it, that will be a sure sign.
thanks for the great video, performing the operation this weekend on my 2004 liberty with a 2010 engine in it , gonna be a fun weekend was wondering, mine had light overheating (caught it right away) should i have the head machined or should i be able to get away with it?
I'm not able to answer that. I would have them checked by a machine shop at a minimum.
How did you get the intake off I've been struggling for days with that
Part 1 disassembly should show that. I can't recall what I did, it was a while ago at this point
How many ft lb torque did you tightened the intake manifold bolts?
It's in the manual, I don't remember
Can you give an update on how shes running?
Well, the vehicle is still in service and had no issues as far as the engine goes. My father uses it as his daily driver and has been before and after the repair to this day.
Did you prime the system before your first start @1:00:18? The guy at the machine shop said to pull the plugs and fuel relay then crank till the oil pressure light goes off. My heads did come back pre-lubed and I put oil on the springs like you did but haven't went for a start yet...
I did not, I figured as long as everything had fresh lube it would be good to go, and it seems to be the case. If I had done a full tear down of the bottom end I'd have done the priming, mostly to make sure the oil pump was getting oil and working, but since i didnt touch the pump i didn't worry about it.
Are the gaskets derectional, i cant find the difference
I don't believe so, but this was so long ago I don't remember
Why did you tighten to 35 ft ibs manual says 20
Manual has 2 tightening methods listed
Do you know what the final torque reading would be after torquing 90 degrees?
I don't, one reason they use degrees instead of a tq value is because tq can be inconsistent at that high of a level, and you want a consistent clamping force across the head.
Olá como vai tudo bem ?
Acha possível taxar os cabeçotes para rodar no álcool taxa de 11, 01
thanks for posting. i am not looking forward to doing the head gaskets on my nitro. same motor, overall how was the total hours labor you had in it and total cost to repair? we have had our nitro since new, 98k on a 12 year old is excellent mileage wise. wife lost a water pump and went about 5 miles on the highway now we have combustion gases in the rad. she gets a new renegade and i will get a work car after repairs. vids are well done and now its not as overwhelming as i thought it would be. best part for me is i dont have a time constraint, and can work on it at my own pace. thanks again for posting
I went through rockauto for all my parts, I think it was somewhere in the range of $700-$900 for everything. Might be a bit off. Hours wise I probably had about 15-20 into it. Then waiting around for the machine shop as well. That cost was included above, it was $230 for disassembly, decking/surfacing, new seals, and reassembly.
@@AllThingsBoost great price on the machine work, my local machine shop charges $200/head.
Good day, I'm sitting with the exact problem, great job an keep it up.
I have a question do I have to remove my cams if I send my head's away for skim and pressure testing I see that yours is still on the head when it came back one guy told me I have to remove them when I send it away
I asked the machine shop if I needed to and he said it was up to me. I opted not to and just let them disassemble and reassemble them.
@@AllThingsBoost indeed thanks
You don’t by chance have a parts list you’d like to share do you? I’m looking at either doing mine or having someone do it
Been working on a 2010 got it all together and it will run but not idle, so tore back into it and all the timing marks are off at tdc by alot of links I'm not sure what went wrong
That's very weird. Perhaps timing slipped when rotating the cams. Be careful and I hope you get it this time around.
Thanks for the video. the gear on top and connects with the back of the idler sprocket di you say the dot has to be on top?
It's been long enough since I've done this I'm not sure. Please reference the manual I linked in the video description to make sure everything is lined up properly. Best of luck
Great video! I have a question, did you coat the head bolts with heavy coats of oil? I did a light coat on my head bolts and not sure if it's enough or should i do a heavy coats?, and do you recommend going with 20 ft-lbs + 90° + 90°? Thanks for your help!
Light coat of oil, just enough to let them spin without binding up under the high load. As for torquing them down either method is fine, but I liked the multiple ft/lb stages with one final 90. Again, either is fine.
@@AllThingsBoost Thanks for the reply! My truck is a 2007 Dodge Nitro 3.7L V6 so probably the same procedure, i didn't torque the bolts after i coated them last night is that ok? Also I'm going to torque them today using 15ft-lbs + 35ft-lbs + 90° as you suggested. Thanks in advance.
How did you tighten down the cam sproket bolts with out everything turning over?
I used 2 lock jaw pliers clamped around each cam, and a micro fiber between the teeth and the cam to protect it from being marred.
between ~5:00 - 9:00 you clean the surfaces and middle piston (passenger side). Did you rotate the crank shaft (i.e. bring the other pistons to TDC) to clean the other pistons?
No I did not, the cleaning was just to get out any light dust debris from using the brush tool. I was not comfortable turning anything over if it didnt absolutely need it.
Do you have part number for the timing chain kit
Just wondering if you disconnected the ac compressor lines?
I did not
How many labor hours do you think you had in this? Estimation is all I'm asking.
Looking at one now that needs a head gasket replaced. Wondering if it's worth the effort. I can get it pretty cheap.
Hard to estimate honestly. Probably about 2 days assuming you have everything set to go
Currently doing mine and I’ve got one of the heads off. I’m at probably about 10 hours or so but I’ve been struggling to remove some parts due to location of some bolts. I’d say if everything goes smoothly you could probably accomplish this at about 10 hours, but that’s if everything goes smooth.
Hey any updates since u have been driving it a bit? Nice work!
So far so good. No issues
@@AllThingsBoost iam encouraged
What other inspections did you do to the block? My2010 3.7L v6 had a bad overheat due to a failed temp sensor. The gauge side was working and temp needle was berried but the fan never turned on. I had to run the jeep for about 45 more minutes before I could pull over.
After replacing the sensor, the Jeep starts and runs just fine but has an internal coolant leak. One cylinder has coolant in it so I know its the head gasket.
Is it worth tearing apart the engine to replace the head gasket? Or is the block completely trashed? I already know I'm going to have to have the heads resurfaced/rebuilt if not replace entirely but I'm worried the block is trashed so debating on dropping in a new engine.
I didn't do any other inspections on the block. This motor was basically run without coolant until the pistons swelled and seized. It's been running better than ever post headgasket job. The heads were warped but the machine shop was able to mill them flat with no issues. If it doesnt make any odd sounds odds are it's fine to do the headgasket job and be good.
@@AllThingsBoost Thats good news! I posted on the forums about what happened and people are saying most often the block lives. But one guy told me the 3.7/4.7 engines can't handle the heat and to do a compression/leak down test on the cylinders to make sure I didn't fry the piston rings. If I fried the piston rings then its time for new engine. But considering your block survived w/no coolant for a period of time, I thinking more than likely my block is ok.
@@Humorem15 I think the bad headgasket will skew a compression or leak down test results. If you had bad rings you'd be smelling oil out of the exhaust
How many miles on this Jeep before gasket replacement?
I believe it was right around 170k
Very Nice Video! Approx. how many hours would you say this job took? Thanks again for the nice work!
Thank you. Including waiting on machine work and having to order additional parts part way though, it took me about 3 weeks. As far as work hours, I probably had close to 30 into it, rough guess, but that seems about right.
@@AllThingsBoost Thank you for the quick reply. My buddy wants me to help him do his and now I know what were getting into. Thanks again!
Did you ever put the peanut-shaped oil filter gasket on? I have the same kit and was wondering where it goes.
I believe it was the oil fill tube gasket that bolts to the front of the head
@@AllThingsBoost Thank you! That was the one.
Nice work...looks good to me....
the felpro bolts you mentioned did those come with the gasket or you had to buy them separately? Thank you.
Had to buy them separately
@@AllThingsBoost thank you for the timely reply.
Hey, hope you well, I've done everything you done, she started up but she still overheats😢 what would you think it might be?
Might be a coolant air lock bubble, bad fan, stuck closed thermostat, clogged radiator, collapsed radiator hose,there are a lot of potential reasons.
Did you clock the thermostat ? The tiny little brass valve has to be straight up at 12 o’clock. It has to be there to let air circulate out of the system . If it is not clocked your engine will over heat.. so the tab on the seal fits into the slot and then look for the tiny valve about size of a pencil spin it inside the gasket so tab stays in its slot and the valve is at 12’ oclock👍
how much would you do my exact thing on the same motor?
I am not in a position to offer a service like that. If something went wrong I have no way to make it right
How long did the whole repair take from start to finish?
About 2 weeks, but most of that was waiting on the machine shop and parts
One more question. Does the timing cover have to come off or is it possible to take the heads off with it on?@@AllThingsBoost
@@tucktuck2004 timing cover definitely has to come off
I was afraid you were gonna say that 😭@@AllThingsBoost
Started up first try! But there is quite a bit of smoke coming from the valve covers. Will this burn off? Did your engine smoke?
I had smoke coming off the block and the exhaust manifolds where I had touched them with greasy hands and spilled oil, it should burn off. Just double check you can see the sources and it's not plastic touching exhaust or something like that, or a thing that wasnt plugged in like a vacuum line. I had forgotten to plug in the throttle all the way my first start and it ran like crap until I realized. Nice job btw!
How's it running today
It's still good to go. No signs of any issues
Semper fi brotha just finished up gonna start it tomorrow I'll lyk how it went
Went great just had to replace the radiator cuz it was clogged also doing therm wish me luck
nice job, did you have to buy a manual or did you find it online free, I have a lady at work that her 2006 3.7 is drinking oil and she bought a short block from jasper engine, I just need the torque spec for putting everything on the engine, she spent all her saving to get this engine and I hate to ask her to spend 30 buck to buy a manual that I'm only going to use once.
Online and linked in the video description 👍
@@AllThingsBoost thank you,
Buddy only one thing , ya put the wrong antifreeze in it . All Mopar engines take “Zerex” Orange anti freeze. Green is the wrong stuff and can damage your engine.. just a heads up on that .. and as far as milage i just put a new crate engine in my 3.7 and it had 265,000 miles on it and still ran perfect and oil samples came back clean. I just changed the engine because i figured it was time , i actually re did the entire driveline and suspension.. seeing as the body was still perfect not a spec of rust or anything , it was worth it , hell who wants to pay $70,000 for a new jeep 👍 total restore cost me $8,000 , and no payments .. my jeep is a KJ tho . Nice job man esp on timing , i wasnt about to try that😂😂
Appreciate the input on the coolant, but it will and has been fine. It is acceptable to change from OEM fluid as long as the whole system has been drained, with the headgasket issue it was receiving the green coolant for about a year before I got it, and with the new radiator, it's not a concern. I appreciate you looking out though!
Coolant is coolant man, it's dye is the only difference
@@thatmodshop7160 Sorry but you are incorrect. There is etholyne glycol and Hoat which is polyetholyne glycol . HOAT is used in engines that have aluminum component’s like blocks and cylinder heads etc… when you mix the two types together they turn into slime . If you use etholyne glycol in a aluminum engines they start to corrode internally .. those are the facts my friend..
Good info, thanks. Music way too loud, and talking too low.
Thanks for the feedback, I think I fixed the music /voice balance in newer videos
Holy smokes that music is too loud
Stop sanding your block to remove gaskets🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️.....it's called gasket remover. And scrapers are made out of plastic.
fantástico
You will be licking your calf all over again when the valve seats fall out I GUAURANTEE you. 3.7l 4.7l 5.7l all do this at some point. Good luck.
Well, 3 years later and it is still good. So... 🤷♂️
3 years later and it is still good sooo 🤷♂️ no calf licking