I just changed the wife's Jeep Commander timing chain valve cover gasket. I felt like Billy badass until I started watching this video and saw Billy badass working on the head gaskets lol. Great job.
Hey. I have a 2011 liberty with 203k miles. Getting p302 misfire on 2. It is my only issue. It is not spark plugs, injectors, plug wires or the coil. I guess there are 3 common repairs after that. Carbon cleaning, valve job, and head gasket. I just got the valve cover off. I am thinking of attempting the intake manifold next to do a carbon cleaning. This video has really helped me to see how things should come apart.
Hi, I’m a qualified automotive Mopar technician with factory/dealer training.. You say you have a misfire on CYL 2. You think the coil, HT lead, S/plug, injector & wiring are all good.. Have you done a compression test (just testing one bank - 3 cylinders, would be adequate) or a leak down test.? If you believe the IGN & IJN (Ignition & Injection) systems are good. I would highly recommend performing at least a compression test on the R/H bank, before proceeding further. Kind regards, Your friendly Mopar tech
The carbon on a valve seat and stem, a loosening exhaust valve seat, a collapsing lifter (you would hear the individual ticking of the rocker), or a leak into the cylinder from the gasket (slow coolant loss) could be the issue. On mine, carbon built up on the intake valve stem, the valve was stuck open on a random cold start up, the rocker fell and rolled sideways, then smashed into the lifter seat/galley area and broke the aluminum head. NO it is definitely not a direct injected engine (haha), but age will have massive carbon build up on the valve stems. OF COURSE the stem seals are SHOT at this point and more of the culprit. I change the stem seals of my older 90's Hondas at 100,000 miles, but a 4cyl old Honda is a simple car to work on, way more than even a Toyota. Liberty death all leads to the valve stems, seals, and lifters. People blame the lifters too much - it is carbon likely 50% of the time. The owners who have a 3.7 Liberty and pop off their valve covers more than one time to re-position a rocker are playing Russian roulette. The valves are sticking. Definitely check the compression, but this could be a valve no longer sealing or a carbon loaded compression ring or scored cylinder walls. It will be an issue with the head no matter what. If you Ohmed out your coils and have clean injectors it is valve and head related.
literally saved me a LOT of money. Im decent with a wrench but wasnt sure if i should tackle the head gaskets on my own 2010 liberty.im doing both sides. also the water pump while im at it to get a few more miles out of it
Yeah, same reason I'm doing this one. I have the heads at the machine shop right now, so once they get back I'll be doing the reinstall video. Decided to stick with the motor, the cylinder wall grooves were easily polished out with 2500 grit sandpaper so it should be fine
Thanks alot for the video brother I have changed a head gasket in a Chevy cobalt 4 cylinder but wasn't confident until I saw this video to change the jeeps V6
So I used your trick and this is my first time changing a head gasket so I took out the tensioner just 2 to loosen up the crankshaft sprocket I then used 2 ratchets one on each bolt. I got someone to hold the driver side still while I tried cracking the passenger side and the entire sprocket turned almost all the way around now nothing lines up and I'm really stuck
Likely you'll need a new sprocket, I'd do a whole new timing kit. As for getting it off, there is a tool clamp the camshaft and keep it from spinning. The other thing you can try is several locking plyers. Use a cloth to keep them from marring up the cam, and an impact gun will also do wonders to remove it.
Do you have any more content on the chain tensioner bolts? I seem to have an extra that I cant find/remember where it goes. It’s the same bolt as the 4 for the two one way tensioner. I have 5 total. Any answers would be extremely appreciated
Did you happen to check compression on the cylinders before teardown and recall how much you were losing in the faulty cylinders? I’m going into the same process now on my 2011 liberty and i checked compression. I was getting about 170 on all but 1 and 3 were at about 120. I pray all it is is a head gasket when i get it apart. Btw. You want to lock down the cams before removing the sprockets because you don’t want the valves to slam into the pistons.
I stuck a pry bar through the balancer to wedge it against the frame so it wouldnt turn when I was turning the bolt out. The other thing I've used (but not on this vehicle) was a ratchet strap wrapped around the balancer and that also held it in place to get the bolt out.
Somebody just worked on my stater today and they say head gasket needs to be replaced, but car is just starting well.... only water bubbles from radiator, is this diagnosis correct? Thank u for ur video please
It did turn on, however it ran poorly, over heated and when the spark plugs were pulled there was coolant on the front 2 passengers plugs. Definitely a blown headgasket.
I didn't replace any of the tensioners, if you go this deep I'd say go ahead and get a new timing set and replace everything, however I was on a tight budget, so I only replaced the timing chain guides. The valve train looked good, so I only had the valve seals replaced when the heads were decked. I an NOT a professional by any means, so I honestly don't know what a failing lifter looks like, but no taps or knocks when the engine was running prior to disassembly made me things everything was fine for reuse there.
No. Mainly because if it was warped it wasn't going to come out anyway. So no point. Usually the heads warp being aluminum, it's pretty rare for the cast iron to warp enough to cause an issue from my understanding. Been running fine since the repair.
@@Humorem15 probably about that. The over all job took about 2 weeks waiting on the machine shop and parts to arrive as I found things I didnt initially realize I needed to buy.
Honestly i hope the only wrong thing with mine its the cylinder head and not the engine block ,the dealer only put,both cylinders heads leaking coolant internal nun else,so ima take it somewhere and get thigns apart and check instead of just going by their compression test,hopefully its just the gasket,or the cylinder head tho
I used 2000 grit sandpaper to smooth over the bigger ones, seems to have worked fine. 2k hardly takes off any material, just enough to make sure it wouldnt further chew anything up. If it was vertical scoring it would probably need a rebuild, because that would mean the rings are probably damaged. But mine was from an over head and swelling the aluminum pistons, thankfully they shrunk back down and didnt hurt anything
Danger? No, but it'll take you longer than a weekend if you are getting your heads resurfaced. Total time I had into this job was probably about 3 or 4 days, but it took me about 3 weeks start to finish waiting on parts and machine shop times while working on it in my free time.
I just changed the wife's Jeep Commander timing chain valve cover gasket. I felt like Billy badass until I started watching this video and saw Billy badass working on the head gaskets lol. Great job.
Hey. I have a 2011 liberty with 203k miles. Getting p302 misfire on 2. It is my only issue. It is not spark plugs, injectors, plug wires or the coil. I guess there are 3 common repairs after that. Carbon cleaning, valve job, and head gasket. I just got the valve cover off. I am thinking of attempting the intake manifold next to do a carbon cleaning. This video has really helped me to see how things should come apart.
Hi, I’m a qualified automotive Mopar technician with factory/dealer training..
You say you have a misfire on CYL 2.
You think the coil, HT lead, S/plug, injector & wiring are all good..
Have you done a compression test (just testing one bank - 3 cylinders, would be adequate) or a leak down test.?
If you believe the IGN & IJN (Ignition & Injection) systems are good.
I would highly recommend performing at least a compression test on the R/H bank, before proceeding further.
Kind regards,
Your friendly Mopar tech
The carbon on a valve seat and stem, a loosening exhaust valve seat, a collapsing lifter (you would hear the individual ticking of the rocker), or a leak into the cylinder from the gasket (slow coolant loss) could be the issue. On mine, carbon built up on the intake valve stem, the valve was stuck open on a random cold start up, the rocker fell and rolled sideways, then smashed into the lifter seat/galley area and broke the aluminum head. NO it is definitely not a direct injected engine (haha), but age will have massive carbon build up on the valve stems. OF COURSE the stem seals are SHOT at this point and more of the culprit. I change the stem seals of my older 90's Hondas at 100,000 miles, but a 4cyl old Honda is a simple car to work on, way more than even a Toyota. Liberty death all leads to the valve stems, seals, and lifters. People blame the lifters too much - it is carbon likely 50% of the time. The owners who have a 3.7 Liberty and pop off their valve covers more than one time to re-position a rocker are playing Russian roulette. The valves are sticking.
Definitely check the compression, but this could be a valve no longer sealing or a carbon loaded compression ring or scored cylinder walls. It will be an issue with the head no matter what. If you Ohmed out your coils and have clean injectors it is valve and head related.
literally saved me a LOT of money. Im decent with a wrench but wasnt sure if i should tackle the head gaskets on my own 2010 liberty.im doing both sides. also the water pump while im at it to get a few more miles out of it
Yeah, same reason I'm doing this one. I have the heads at the machine shop right now, so once they get back I'll be doing the reinstall video. Decided to stick with the motor, the cylinder wall grooves were easily polished out with 2500 grit sandpaper so it should be fine
Thanks alot for the video brother I have changed a head gasket in a Chevy cobalt 4 cylinder but wasn't confident until I saw this video to change the jeeps V6
Great job tearing that apart! Definitely a lot going on under that hood. Definitely going to save your dad a ton of money.
That's the plan, also some good practice if all goes well to hopefully get to dive into the GT500 motor down the road.
Passger side is the most common for the valve seat to fall out
How many hours does this job call for?
So I used your trick and this is my first time changing a head gasket so I took out the tensioner just 2 to loosen up the crankshaft sprocket I then used 2 ratchets one on each bolt. I got someone to hold the driver side still while I tried cracking the passenger side and the entire sprocket turned almost all the way around now nothing lines up and I'm really stuck
Likely you'll need a new sprocket, I'd do a whole new timing kit. As for getting it off, there is a tool clamp the camshaft and keep it from spinning. The other thing you can try is several locking plyers. Use a cloth to keep them from marring up the cam, and an impact gun will also do wonders to remove it.
Do you have any more content on the chain tensioner bolts? I seem to have an extra that I cant find/remember where it goes. It’s the same bolt as the 4 for the two one way tensioner. I have 5 total. Any answers would be extremely appreciated
I think that zip tie is factory I had the same on on the one I was doing
Did you happen to check compression on the cylinders before teardown and recall how much you were losing in the faulty cylinders? I’m going into the same process now on my 2011 liberty and i checked compression. I was getting about 170 on all but 1 and 3 were at about 120. I pray all it is is a head gasket when i get it apart. Btw. You want to lock down the cams before removing the sprockets because you don’t want the valves to slam into the pistons.
I have a dodge nitro 3.7... Who is a good source to buy the Head Gasket kit with bolts from?
BTW Your videos are very informative.
I've had good luck with rockauto, just need to pay attention to quantity and what's included.
@@AllThingsBoost Thanks so much!
What size torque but was the one bolt/screw on the passenger side?
Thank you for this.
How did you get the harmonic balancer bolt of without turning the harmonic???
I stuck a pry bar through the balancer to wedge it against the frame so it wouldnt turn when I was turning the bolt out. The other thing I've used (but not on this vehicle) was a ratchet strap wrapped around the balancer and that also held it in place to get the bolt out.
Where did you get the tool to take off the harmonic balancer off
@@thomasr9713 harbor freight 3 jaw puller
@@thomasr9713 any auto shop
Somebody just worked on my stater today and they say head gasket needs to be replaced, but car is just starting well.... only water bubbles from radiator, is this diagnosis correct?
Thank u for ur video please
Google coolant headgasket test kit, follow the directions and the results will let you know
Are head gaskets a common problem with these 3.7L V6 engines??
I'm not sure. This is the only one I've worked on, it isn't a vehicle I'm very spun up on in terms of common issues
Did your car turn on before u did this or why u deside to check gaskets
It did turn on, however it ran poorly, over heated and when the spark plugs were pulled there was coolant on the front 2 passengers plugs. Definitely a blown headgasket.
can i use an impact drill on the cam bolt
For removal? Sure, shouldn't hurt anything
Hi did you re use the head bolts how did you torque them ?
Watch part 2, new bolts and tq sequence
Okay thanks
Re: Video Part 2. Exactly which tensioner did you replace? Do you think the rocker arms or valve lifters need to be replaced? Nice job/video.
I didn't replace any of the tensioners, if you go this deep I'd say go ahead and get a new timing set and replace everything, however I was on a tight budget, so I only replaced the timing chain guides.
The valve train looked good, so I only had the valve seals replaced when the heads were decked. I an NOT a professional by any means, so I honestly don't know what a failing lifter looks like, but no taps or knocks when the engine was running prior to disassembly made me things everything was fine for reuse there.
did you check for block warpage? i.e feeler gauges and a straight edge?
No. Mainly because if it was warped it wasn't going to come out anyway. So no point. Usually the heads warp being aluminum, it's pretty rare for the cast iron to warp enough to cause an issue from my understanding. Been running fine since the repair.
I'm in the same boat with my 2010 grand Cherokee, 3.7L V6. I'm very interested in the install video
Install video has been up for a while, check out the 2010 jeep playlist. So far the headgasket job has been holding up well
@@AllThingsBoost How long did it take you to do the whole job (tear down and reinstall)? 40hrs?
@@Humorem15 probably about that. The over all job took about 2 weeks waiting on the machine shop and parts to arrive as I found things I didnt initially realize I needed to buy.
Honestly i hope the only wrong thing with mine its the cylinder head and not the engine block ,the dealer only put,both cylinders heads leaking coolant internal nun else,so ima take it somewhere and get thigns apart and check instead of just going by their compression test,hopefully its just the gasket,or the cylinder head tho
Would this walk through work on a 2003 Liberty??
I dont know.
And did cylinder need fixing cause of scratches
I used 2000 grit sandpaper to smooth over the bigger ones, seems to have worked fine. 2k hardly takes off any material, just enough to make sure it wouldnt further chew anything up. If it was vertical scoring it would probably need a rebuild, because that would mean the rings are probably damaged. But mine was from an over head and swelling the aluminum pistons, thankfully they shrunk back down and didnt hurt anything
Good video, informative. Music was so loud.
Yeah, not much I can do now, but I'll mess with sound balance next time
@@AllThingsBoost all good man, very useful information and great video it helped me out personally. Liked and subbed.
@@AllThingsBoost back after 3 years and back to your video for information. appreciate you brother.
@@slowyo9645 glad to hear it, thanks for the kind words!
Yes sir. Not sure what happened, but just subbed. Still one of the better explanations in UA-cam. Have a good one.
How long did this take? Wondering if I can get this done over a weekend... Any danger in taking on this task....? hehe
Danger? No, but it'll take you longer than a weekend if you are getting your heads resurfaced. Total time I had into this job was probably about 3 or 4 days, but it took me about 3 weeks start to finish waiting on parts and machine shop times while working on it in my free time.
Good stuff
Super nervous to pull the head and mess up the time
You'll be fine. Just pay attention to retimimg it and all will be fine.
I wish you could fix my car
Doing speed video does not help. Diy need to see those steps you speed through. Makes your video less helpful.
Good video but that free license music is obnoxious to the point where I have to mute it
Trackin, hard to get music balance right because everyone has a different sound system, I'll mess with some stuff next time around. Thanks
@@AllThingsBoost i think its fine man
@@AllThingsBoost Don’t need the music at all. Tell us what you are pulling off! Retired mechanic of 50 years.
Why do you put music no need plus too too loud
Obviously it was not intentional, it's hard to tell in editing, even now on my speakers it sounds fine. In future videos I have fixed it.
Dude, that music is too loud
Sorry bud, not going to pull the video down, figure out how to edit it, and reupload. It's been addressed in newer videos