I love this project! Really enjoy the detail discussion/background you provide incl the computer animated aspects. It did feel at times like I was just watching glue dry or worse watching more sanding being done. I give you all tons of credit for your focus and determination. Keep it going!
I just found this series, and am watching through to catch up. Thanks for taking the time and effort to do these vids. Watching y'all struggle with the wood strip joints, my first instinct (as a somewhat experienced wood worker) was that wood glue and finger joints would probably be an appropriate solution given your equipment. The finger joints can be made with a router bit and really increases the surface area, as you guys quickly learned is necessary for such small strips. Wood glue is purpose designed for gluing wood, sets up to working hardness in about an hour, and cures to form an extremely resilient joint. West Epoxy is fine, and you already had a billion gallons of it, but isn't ideal for joining wood.
great work! you are doing a great work! I was curious why the forebeam arc is been made with cedar instead of foam... because if I understood right you are using carbon for it..
@SV LYNX- Thanks for documenting this build! Everything shared with this channel is excellent. Don't need a response, just wanted to say that going to the longer cedar strips is a good solution. I think additional relief cuts is the best alternative to soaking the strips. Even if other subscribers/content viewers are less than excited with seeing all the sanding involved, it's an important part of construction and really informative. I hope they'll exercise even more patience when 'fairing' process get going! :-) While 2 yrs is a considerable amount of time, I am SO looking forward too following your weekly progress (& cheering you all on!) as SV Lynx grows from simple parts to a amazing quality vessel. It will be even more fun to see where you go and the adventures once She is sailing! Please remember, do take time away from the project so you're sanity levels remain in check! Sharing those is good, showing other activities, displays the mental health sides & helps to convey the realities regular people (I did not say 'normal'...) building a dream. ❤ All the best! M- PS- Have you considered setting up a PayPal account for SV Lynx? For people supporting this way, a larger % of the total actual $ contributed gets to the project...
Get a pvc pipe put the cedar in and use it as a steam chamber. I did this when I made a cedar strip surf board. It made all the difference. Love the build keep it coming.
Hi. Binge watching your build to catch up and enjoying seeing the steady progress. One thing I noticed in this video though, was that when you added the silica to thicken the epoxy, we could clearly see particles of silica floating in the air. I used to choose not to wear a mask while doing this but watching a few people much more expert than me explain why they do wear one has convinced me its wise. Better than a lung disorder. Otherwise, I really admire your approach and progress.
Hi Guys Great Job! Wetting those planks would do the job. The only issue is you have to wait a day or two to dry... I have wetted planks over night in cold water. Very easy job. Best wishes!
Hey Phil, be careful with the cedar dust from the saw, I know you are outside, but the cedar dust due to its resistance to water is really bad for the lungs. Kev
Well, that would be up to the individuals building their boat. For us, it is worth it simply because we could not find any other way to reach our goals. It will certainly make for a big celebration when we to launch!
I’m curious as to what issues other builders have had with the cedar planks breaking, looks like you’re starting to make good progress now. I wonder if steaming the area where the maximum twist is would be a better idea than soaking the whole plank, never tried it myself though. Hopefully all is on track now anyway 😃🍻
Me too, though only two 1490s have been built and we are the first Solitaire 1520. I looked at some of their previous kits and the amount of curve is not as severe in this forebeam on our boat. But, as you say, we are on track now :)
The kerfs will work. I have built some major deck projects and other carpentry that required cutting kerfs and it worked well. Your progress is great and I enjoy watching your boat come together.
Looking good guys, if i could make a sugesstion with the bow, cut planks off at frame 0 and build a sacrificial bow out of foam all shionning cats used to be done like this im suprized the Schionning team has not sugested this option.
Try scarfing the joints at their widest top to bottom so that the scarf is in plane with the bend. Scarfing from the narrow side to side as you have and then twisting will load the end-grain to failure.
Thanks for that suggestion! Fortunately, we solved the issue now by eliminating the joints at the large bend portion. But, we would have tried your suggestion if we had stayed with the original wood.
I know you don't want to soak them unless you have to but I just thought that I would throw out an example of what I did using water. Last summer I had to warp some very strong 12ft 2x8 lumber to fit a boat trailer. These had to bend and twist in 2 different directions just like the wood you are working with. I laid out a tarp on my lawn and propped up the sides and ends with some lumber I had laid around then filled the resulting trough with water. I then began soaking the pieces of wood I needed to warp and placed supports and weights on them to get them to bend to the approximate shape I needed. I left them like that for over a day When they came out they were very flexible and easy to work with. Seems like you have a drying problem to solve which in the hot dry Southern California sun should be easy to do?
I noticed, once you pulled the majority of your screws and washers, that you have a myriad of screw holes to fill and sand. Most people would usually do this as an additional step, requiring filling, curing time, and then sanding flush. I would usually recommend holding off filling the holes till just prior to applying your cloth. Fill the holes with thickened epoxy, and apply the cloth over the wet epoxy, permitting it to self-level, and skipping the additional step of sanding. However, since you’re fairing with a longboard, before applying the cloth, it would make more sense to fill the holes now, and fair them while sanding with the flap-disk and longboard.
That's an interesting idea. :) We would have done that on canoe #1, but since the laminating epoxy has been delayed, we'll probably just fill and sand. But we might try that on canoe #2!
What do you guys do for income? I don’t see anyone working except for the boat build. You guys are doing a great job and I am very interested to see the process. Is Brian an employee or just good friend?
Well, we are both retired, so all we have to do is build a boat :) well, that and go sail her later. As for funding, a tiny bit from UA-cam and Patreon, and a lot of our life savings, which I pretty much spent on the boat!
Have you tried a heat gun. Wood will bend if it's heated. It's just a small hand held that looks a little like a drill but the end that blows heat out is about 2 inch.
It looks like you arrived at the right solution: better materials in the form of longer cedar stock. FWIW, in my experience working with cedar (and other oily woods), it makes a ton of difference to clean the wood surfaces twice with acetone. Then when you mix up your epoxy, first apply a light coat of epoxy to both sides of the joint before you add the silica (or other thickener), then add the thickener to the mix, then apply the thickened epoxy to the joint and clamp as you have been. The idea is to remove the oil from the wood and then allow the thin epoxy to soak into the dry wood fibers. (Sorry if I am describing your current work process, I didn't see that in the video). ...One more thing. Excellent work on the powered filter masks. Regular filter masks work well, but are so much more uncomfortable that there is always a temptation to remove the mask when the work gets taxing (Which could mean that workers are breathing deeply without a mask when they are making the most dust). Making your protective gear comfortable in the SoCal heat is a smart way to remove that tension. Good luck with your project. I am looking forward to seeing it come together.
Great progress! Also just curious what type of contingencies/buffers you’ve built into your two year timeline? Are there any breaks/vacation time allowed or is there downtime due to weather/illness/mistakes/material shortages/supply chain interruptions? Keep up the good work!
Not much for supply chain interruptions. Once our epoxy arrives we have most things already as we ordered everything early to avoid such problems. No vacations, I haven't taken one in twenty years so I am good to go for two more, then we will get a very long vacation to make up for it. For illnesses and weather we have a six month contingency built into our schedule. If those cause more delay than that then the boat will just get finished later. There is no real deadline for the boat to be finished other than we want to go sailing as soon as possible.
@@SailingSVLynx Yikes, no vacations in 20+ years?!?!? I hope you get this project wrapped up on time so you can get busy enjoying a much deserved break!
Hey Philip - at 11:46 you mention "reducing thickness by 10 % " - is that the DuFlex foam hull thickness you are referring to and if so, what thickness panel have you spec'd for the hulls if I can ask? (Or did you mean reducing the 'x' many layers of basalt overlay by 10% as compared to e-glass? ) Thank you again for the time taken to diligently show your progress ...and problems.
We are not changing the foam. And we are keeping the number of laminate layers the same, but we are reducing the weight of the basalt cloth by 10% compared to the e-glass cloth.
@@MikeWalker-mijeau The foam is about an inch thick, with both sides laminated with several layers of fiberglass. We are then adding a few more layers of basalt to the exterior side. Schionning claims their hulls are over engineered, and capable of being beached to dry out, that's without the added strength we are adding swiching to basalt.
Maybe you all ready covered why are you using cedar strips instead of foam. Could you tell me why not use foam there instead of cedar. I enjoy watching your project it is my Saturday morning enjoyment. Great work keep up the great job.👏👏👏
The forebeam is under massive compression loads from the mast and sails, so we don't want to mess around experimenting. The plans call for cedar, so we are following the design.
Hello! Just curious on what sort of resin used by Shioning to laminate those green foam sheets? I also feeling weird every time you use grinder. From my experience it is too powerfull. Any small mistake could ruin a lot. Not perfect surface left after compare to eg. belt sander. But I like your new sanding equipment! Good for smooth finishing. I am personally using 6" orbital with purple 3M disks and it works great! Sanding media is the key. Now I am start worrying on what's happen if you lay glass on non perfectly curved and sanded surface. It might catch some air which you definitely don't want under the waterline.
The panels come from a company called Advanced Materials Solutions, in South Africa (not Schionning Designs). You would have to contact them to find out any information on what laminating epoxy they use on their foam panels. As for the angle grinder, we are not using a grinder disk. The one we are using is a pliable flap disk. It gives us plenty of control to sand off high spots of hard epoxy. The hull will be smooth when finished, so no air trapped.
Maybe, but the problem we are having is the amount of curve to this beam. The wood flexes, but the epoxy in the joint does not. That puts a lot of stress on the joint so it pulls apart from the wood (the epoxy doesn't break). A longer scarf would mean a longer section of unbendable epoxy, so even more stress. I'm not saying your idea would not work, we just found a better solution, don't have a joint in the hard curved area.
Actually, with a properly cut scarf joint, using the appropriate ratio, you will not have a hard spot, in the strip, because of the epoxy. The larger the joint, the more area to distribute the force.
@@omarrashash394 Though I am sure you are correct about strength, that long section of epoxy is not going to flex, so the arc of the beam wouldl have a long flat spot. Fortunately, we don't have to experiment anymore since our longer pieces are working well now. :)
The wood is completely encased inside carbon fiber, so it will be fine. As for why wood, you would have to ask Schionning Designs, but it probably has to do with the compression strength.
Too much! We have spent two weeks doing what should have taken two days. However, we did not lose two weeks from our schedule. The reason is that most of that two weeks is spent waiting for the epoxy to cure in that next set of joints before we try it and find out they break. During that cure time, we are working on other parts of the boat. So, in truth, it probably cost us about five hours extra, which is the time it took to cut double rabbit joints and apply epoxy.
I don't know. The strongback we are using will be both. It is concave for the lower half of the beam and convex for the upper portion of the beam. You will see that part in an upcoming video.
congrats but a bit sad the designers and suppliers of the kit seem to be offering solutions after you find problems especially when they are building them and others have built them ??
One of the issues with building a newer kit is that there haven't been a lot of these built. Right now, only two Solitaire 1490s, and we are the first Solitaire 1520.
@@SailingSVLynx But the way you are uploading detailed videos covering all the aspects of boat building, I think we gonna see a lot of these catamarans in ocean soon.
Well, the art of buildings boats, using wood as the primary material, is becoming a lost art. I look at your floor beam form, and do not see an overly complex curve. However, the wrong materials and technique will make it harder than it needs to be. For example, the lignum in the wood cells, affect how easy the wood bends. Wood that has been kiln dried is harder to bend, and breaks more often, than wood that’s been air dried. The kiln drying process “sets” the lignum in the cells, and makes the wood stiffer. While a lot of this can be overcome by the application of steam, to soften the lignum, it’s easier to just find air dried material. Additionally, changing the thickness of the material can also make bending easier. Using two layers of 3/8” material, rather than a single layer of 3/4” material. There is a reason why I think student architects should spend their summers building things, and naval architects should occasionally “eat their own dog food” and actually build some parts of the things they’re designing. You are discovering the joy of buildings hull number one.
We agree with you! As for the wood, you know a lot more about it than we do. However, we did find a solution that worked and the forebeam is progressing nicely now. You'll see more of that next week.
Finally someone with a decent microphone
Mostly, yes, unless we screw up and have to use the raw sound from the camera. We try not to do that. :)
I love this project! Really enjoy the detail discussion/background you provide incl the computer animated aspects. It did feel at times like I was just watching glue dry or worse watching more sanding being done. I give you all tons of credit for your focus and determination. Keep it going!
Yeah, sorry about the sanding... but it is what we spent the majority of the time on this week! :)
True. The most detailed live project I ever seen on UA-cam! Must seen for sure!
@@catamaraniablogcatamaniac8833 Well, shucks. Thank you! We try our best :)
Someone tell the old bald guy to put the hood up on his "bunny suit"; works better that way.😆
Great progress and you all display a high level of patience.(The forebeam cedar strip issue)😀👍
Having been a teacher at one point in life, I learned how to fake patience. ;)
I just found this series, and am watching through to catch up. Thanks for taking the time and effort to do these vids. Watching y'all struggle with the wood strip joints, my first instinct (as a somewhat experienced wood worker) was that wood glue and finger joints would probably be an appropriate solution given your equipment. The finger joints can be made with a router bit and really increases the surface area, as you guys quickly learned is necessary for such small strips. Wood glue is purpose designed for gluing wood, sets up to working hardness in about an hour, and cures to form an extremely resilient joint. West Epoxy is fine, and you already had a billion gallons of it, but isn't ideal for joining wood.
Thanks, we might need to work on some addition wood joints in other areas.
great work! you are doing a great work! I was curious why the forebeam arc is been made with cedar instead of foam... because if I understood right you are using carbon for it..
I am not 100% sure either; better compression characteristics? I will ask Schionning next time we meet.
@SV LYNX- Thanks for documenting this build! Everything shared with this channel is excellent.
Don't need a response, just wanted to say that going to the longer cedar strips is a good solution. I think additional relief cuts is the best alternative to soaking the strips.
Even if other subscribers/content viewers are less than excited with seeing all the sanding involved, it's an important part of construction and really informative. I hope they'll exercise even more patience when 'fairing' process get going! :-)
While 2 yrs is a considerable amount of time, I am SO looking forward too following your weekly progress (& cheering you all on!) as SV Lynx grows from simple parts to a amazing quality vessel. It will be even more fun to see where you go and the adventures once She is sailing!
Please remember, do take time away from the project so you're sanity levels remain in check! Sharing those is good, showing other activities, displays the mental health sides & helps to convey the realities regular people (I did not say 'normal'...) building a dream. ❤
All the best!
M-
PS- Have you considered setting up a PayPal account for SV Lynx? For people supporting this way, a larger % of the total actual $ contributed gets to the project...
Thanks, we will consider the Paypal option. We need all the help we can get.
Get a pvc pipe put the cedar in and use it as a steam chamber. I did this when I made a cedar strip surf board. It made all the difference. Love the build keep it coming.
Fortunately, we have gotten all of the strips on now (more of that in next week's video). But we appreciate your suggestion!
Another option may be to soak the strips install them and let them dry naturally on the form.
Hi. Binge watching your build to catch up and enjoying seeing the steady progress. One thing I noticed in this video though, was that when you added the silica to thicken the epoxy, we could clearly see particles of silica floating in the air. I used to choose not to wear a mask while doing this but watching a few people much more expert than me explain why they do wear one has convinced me its wise. Better than a lung disorder. Otherwise, I really admire your approach and progress.
We have worn masks ever since that video. Thanks for caring.
That's a lot of work... make sure to get some rest. Will be interesting to see how the front end turns out. Great join
Job!
We work a regular schedule, two days off a week, 8 hour work days, max. :)
That flexi sander is really neat. Never seen something like that.
Yes, expensive though, but for our purposes, very handy.
Hi Guys
Great Job!
Wetting those planks would do the job. The only issue is you have to wait a day or two to dry...
I have wetted planks over night in cold water. Very easy job.
Best wishes!
Schionning did not want us to wet the planks, so we didn't.
Hey Phil, be careful with the cedar dust from the saw, I know you are outside, but the cedar dust due to its resistance to water is really bad for the lungs.
Kev
Good advice, thanks
I enjoy this type of production but with all the personal hours put into a build like this is it really worth at the end, as in launch day.
Well, that would be up to the individuals building their boat. For us, it is worth it simply because we could not find any other way to reach our goals. It will certainly make for a big celebration when we to launch!
I’m curious as to what issues other builders have had with the cedar planks breaking, looks like you’re starting to make good progress now. I wonder if steaming the area where the maximum twist is would be a better idea than soaking the whole plank, never tried it myself though. Hopefully all is on track now anyway 😃🍻
Me too, though only two 1490s have been built and we are the first Solitaire 1520. I looked at some of their previous kits and the amount of curve is not as severe in this forebeam on our boat. But, as you say, we are on track now :)
The kerfs will work. I have built some major deck projects and other carpentry that required cutting kerfs and it worked well. Your progress is great and I enjoy watching your boat come together.
Thanks for the comment and for watching!
Looking good guys, if i could make a sugesstion with the bow, cut planks off at frame 0 and build a sacrificial bow out of foam all shionning cats used to be done like this im suprized the Schionning team has not sugested this option.
They have, but didn't send us the foam.
@@SailingSVLynx no worries, you can do it down the track once hulls are turned over bulkheads in etc you could source the foam localy maby.
Try scarfing the joints at their widest top to bottom so that the scarf is in plane with the bend. Scarfing from the narrow side to side as you have and then twisting will load the end-grain to failure.
Thanks for that suggestion! Fortunately, we solved the issue now by eliminating the joints at the large bend portion. But, we would have tried your suggestion if we had stayed with the original wood.
I know you don't want to soak them unless you have to but I just thought that I would throw out an example of what I did using water.
Last summer I had to warp some very strong 12ft 2x8 lumber to fit a boat trailer. These had to bend and twist in 2 different directions just like the wood you are working with.
I laid out a tarp on my lawn and propped up the sides and ends with some lumber I had laid around then filled the resulting trough with water.
I then began soaking the pieces of wood I needed to warp and placed supports and weights on them to get them to bend to the approximate shape I needed. I left them like that for over a day
When they came out they were very flexible and easy to work with.
Seems like you have a drying problem to solve which in the hot dry Southern California sun should be easy to do?
Thanks for the suggestion. Fortunately, we seem to have it all working now with the longer cedar boards. :)
I noticed, once you pulled the majority of your screws and washers, that you have a myriad of screw holes to fill and sand. Most people would usually do this as an additional step, requiring filling, curing time, and then sanding flush. I would usually recommend holding off filling the holes till just prior to applying your cloth. Fill the holes with thickened epoxy, and apply the cloth over the wet epoxy, permitting it to self-level, and skipping the additional step of sanding. However, since you’re fairing with a longboard, before applying the cloth, it would make more sense to fill the holes now, and fair them while sanding with the flap-disk and longboard.
That's an interesting idea. :) We would have done that on canoe #1, but since the laminating epoxy has been delayed, we'll probably just fill and sand. But we might try that on canoe #2!
What do you guys do for income? I don’t see anyone working except for the boat build. You guys are doing a great job and I am very interested to see the process. Is Brian an employee or just good friend?
Well, we are both retired, so all we have to do is build a boat :) well, that and go sail her later. As for funding, a tiny bit from UA-cam and Patreon, and a lot of our life savings, which I pretty much spent on the boat!
Have you tried a heat gun. Wood will bend if it's heated. It's just a small hand held that looks a little like a drill but the end that blows heat out is about 2 inch.
If we need to, we will.
I am glad you are finally starting to call them hulls and no longer canoes😂
Well, every time I call them hulls I made a mistake, this portion of the hulls are officially called canoes.😉
Nice one... any stage during this build were vacuum bagging will be used..? Anyways, looking forward to your next video.. 🙂👍
The only vacuum bagging we might do is the daggerboards, but we haven't decided yet.
You’re going to cut the time due to reducing the learning curve too. Looks like you’re building a boat! ☺️ stay safe!
No doubt! We are in the most difficult portion of the build, the beginning, building hte most difficult part, the hull canoes.
It looks like you arrived at the right solution: better materials in the form of longer cedar stock.
FWIW, in my experience working with cedar (and other oily woods), it makes a ton of difference to clean the wood surfaces twice with acetone. Then when you mix up your epoxy, first apply a light coat of epoxy to both sides of the joint before you add the silica (or other thickener), then add the thickener to the mix, then apply the thickened epoxy to the joint and clamp as you have been. The idea is to remove the oil from the wood and then allow the thin epoxy to soak into the dry wood fibers. (Sorry if I am describing your current work process, I didn't see that in the video).
...One more thing. Excellent work on the powered filter masks. Regular filter masks work well, but are so much more uncomfortable that there is always a temptation to remove the mask when the work gets taxing (Which could mean that workers are breathing deeply without a mask when they are making the most dust). Making your protective gear comfortable in the SoCal heat is a smart way to remove that tension. Good luck with your project. I am looking forward to seeing it come together.
Thanks Rob! Yes, we did do the epoxy coat and then filler second, but we did not clean the surface as you suggested, so thanks for that!
Great progress! Also just curious what type of contingencies/buffers you’ve built into your two year timeline? Are there any breaks/vacation time allowed or is there downtime due to weather/illness/mistakes/material shortages/supply chain interruptions?
Keep up the good work!
Not much for supply chain interruptions. Once our epoxy arrives we have most things already as we ordered everything early to avoid such problems. No vacations, I haven't taken one in twenty years so I am good to go for two more, then we will get a very long vacation to make up for it. For illnesses and weather we have a six month contingency built into our schedule. If those cause more delay than that then the boat will just get finished later. There is no real deadline for the boat to be finished other than we want to go sailing as soon as possible.
@@SailingSVLynx Yikes, no vacations in 20+ years?!?!? I hope you get this project wrapped up on time so you can get busy enjoying a much deserved break!
You can use a heat gun to slowly heat up the wood. It will bend a lot easier. Just be careful not to burn it.
Good tip. However, we managed to get all the strips mounted now. We'll show that next week. :)
Could you use plastic stripping instead of wood? I have seen long pieces of plastic at home improvement stores.
Plastic is heavy.
Hey Philip - at 11:46 you mention "reducing thickness by 10 % " - is that the DuFlex foam hull thickness you are referring to and if so, what thickness panel have you spec'd for the hulls if I can ask? (Or did you mean reducing the 'x' many layers of basalt overlay by 10% as compared to e-glass? )
Thank you again for the time taken to diligently show your progress ...and problems.
We are not changing the foam. And we are keeping the number of laminate layers the same, but we are reducing the weight of the basalt cloth by 10% compared to the e-glass cloth.
Oh ok, thanks for that explanation Phil. So how thick are the hulls now and how much more 'meat' do you expect the basalt skins to add?
@@MikeWalker-mijeau The foam is about an inch thick, with both sides laminated with several layers of fiberglass. We are then adding a few more layers of basalt to the exterior side. Schionning claims their hulls are over engineered, and capable of being beached to dry out, that's without the added strength we are adding swiching to basalt.
Maybe you all ready covered why are you using cedar strips instead of foam. Could you tell me why not use foam there instead of cedar. I enjoy watching your project it is my Saturday morning enjoyment. Great work keep up the great job.👏👏👏
The forebeam is under massive compression loads from the mast and sails, so we don't want to mess around experimenting. The plans call for cedar, so we are following the design.
@@SailingSVLynx that’s great. I was just curious is all.
@@goofnoff2672 No worries, that's the only information I had about that, but all questions are good questions. :)
Hello! Just curious on what sort of resin used by Shioning to laminate those green foam sheets? I also feeling weird every time you use grinder. From my experience it is too powerfull. Any small mistake could ruin a lot. Not perfect surface left after compare to eg. belt sander. But I like your new sanding equipment! Good for smooth finishing. I am personally using 6" orbital with purple 3M disks and it works great! Sanding media is the key. Now I am start worrying on what's happen if you lay glass on non perfectly curved and sanded surface. It might catch some air which you definitely don't want under the waterline.
The panels come from a company called Advanced Materials Solutions, in South Africa (not Schionning Designs). You would have to contact them to find out any information on what laminating epoxy they use on their foam panels. As for the angle grinder, we are not using a grinder disk. The one we are using is a pliable flap disk. It gives us plenty of control to sand off high spots of hard epoxy. The hull will be smooth when finished, so no air trapped.
I wonder if it would be possible to make a flat fiberglass board and the cut the stripes out of it to use instead of wood for the forebeam ?
It would be too heavy.
12/1 scarf joint and bead and cove on the beam planks should solve your problems
Maybe, but the problem we are having is the amount of curve to this beam. The wood flexes, but the epoxy in the joint does not. That puts a lot of stress on the joint so it pulls apart from the wood (the epoxy doesn't break). A longer scarf would mean a longer section of unbendable epoxy, so even more stress. I'm not saying your idea would not work, we just found a better solution, don't have a joint in the hard curved area.
Actually, with a properly cut scarf joint, using the appropriate ratio, you will not have a hard spot, in the strip, because of the epoxy. The larger the joint, the more area to distribute the force.
@@omarrashash394 Though I am sure you are correct about strength, that long section of epoxy is not going to flex, so the arc of the beam wouldl have a long flat spot. Fortunately, we don't have to experiment anymore since our longer pieces are working well now. :)
👍
:)
Why aren't you using foam strips for the forebeam. Won't wood be subject to rot over time?
The wood is completely encased inside carbon fiber, so it will be fine. As for why wood, you would have to ask Schionning Designs, but it probably has to do with the compression strength.
I would like to know how much time is used for REDOs
Too much! We have spent two weeks doing what should have taken two days. However, we did not lose two weeks from our schedule. The reason is that most of that two weeks is spent waiting for the epoxy to cure in that next set of joints before we try it and find out they break. During that cure time, we are working on other parts of the boat. So, in truth, it probably cost us about five hours extra, which is the time it took to cut double rabbit joints and apply epoxy.
I am thinking of a steam box..
We would have tried that, but we solve the issue now :)
How come I have seen this strong back with the top is rounded instead of concave?👍
I don't know. The strongback we are using will be both. It is concave for the lower half of the beam and convex for the upper portion of the beam. You will see that part in an upcoming video.
Would steaming the wood help?
Possibly, but we did find a solution :)
Why washers and screws instead of cabinet screws?
We wanted the smallest hole possible, threads to the head, no taper at the top, and a wide cap. I didn't see any cabinet screws like that.
have you thought of a steambox
All wood strip planking is completed.
congrats but a bit sad the designers and suppliers of the kit seem to be offering solutions after you find problems especially when they are building them and others have built them ??
One of the issues with building a newer kit is that there haven't been a lot of these built. Right now, only two Solitaire 1490s, and we are the first Solitaire 1520.
@@SailingSVLynx But the way you are uploading detailed videos covering all the aspects of boat building, I think we gonna see a lot of these catamarans in ocean soon.
@@nisargjani8050 We hope they help other builders!
Well, the art of buildings boats, using wood as the primary material, is becoming a lost art.
I look at your floor beam form, and do not see an overly complex curve. However, the wrong materials and technique will make it harder than it needs to be. For example, the lignum in the wood cells, affect how easy the wood bends. Wood that has been kiln dried is harder to bend, and breaks more often, than wood that’s been air dried. The kiln drying process “sets” the lignum in the cells, and makes the wood stiffer. While a lot of this can be overcome by the application of steam, to soften the lignum, it’s easier to just find air dried material. Additionally, changing the thickness of the material can also make bending easier. Using two layers of 3/8” material, rather than a single layer of 3/4” material.
There is a reason why I think student architects should spend their summers building things, and naval architects should occasionally “eat their own dog food” and actually build some parts of the things they’re designing. You are discovering the joy of buildings hull number one.
We agree with you! As for the wood, you know a lot more about it than we do. However, we did find a solution that worked and the forebeam is progressing nicely now. You'll see more of that next week.