Peace of mind by using basault over glass is priceless. Can’t knock this and thanks for showing a form of composite I’ve never heard of. Great progress!
Carbon fibre is less elastic than glass fibre. So the carbon strip you put in the bulkhead will take all the load first. If it can’t take the load it will fail possibly causing it to delaminate from the glass fibre layer, as the glass fibre layer will stretch more under load. If you mix carbon layers with glass fibre use enough carbon to carry all the expected load.
We're not concerned about this since there are other areas across the bridge deck that mix carbon fiber and e-glass in the plans and Schionning has been doing this for a long time with lots of boats that have not failed.
@@SailingSVLynx I agree with the original poster. Naval architects may mix a little bit of carbon fiber in in key places, but that is based on knowledge of where the stresses will be. Randomly mixing carbon fiber with glass fiber is a bad idea per my understanding. Also, wherever the carbon fiber layer stops, stress will accumulate.
@@dnomyarnostaw maybe "random" is the wrong word. What I mean is I would not recommend intermingling carbon fiber and glass fiber unless the plans call for it. As a general practice it can't be recommended because the glass and carbon fibers have very different modulus and also different thermal coefficient of expansion. Naval architects may specify mixing carbon and glass, but if so, they will do so in areas where it won't cause any problem.
@@mckenziekeith7434 Very Interesting. I did some extra homework on the topic. (If you Google the Paragraph, you should get the whole topic) "In the mixed carbon/fibreglass part, the tension force is not spread uniformly over the entire cross-section. The fibreglass, which has to 'give' a bit to accept a load, wants to stretch, but it's held back by the six-times-stiffer carbon fibre. The carbon, then, takes almost all of the load, leaving the fibreglass nearly unloaded. In essence, the cross-sectional area of the part is reduced to the cross-sectional area of the carbon fibre; the fibreglass can't come into play unless it is allowed to stretch slightly, and the stiff carbon has already taken most of the load before that can happen." I suppose the E-Glass could just be the other side of the wood compression sandwich. I suppose we just have to rely on the work of the NA, who earn the big bucks.
Really interesting episode. You are now officially in the same boat as tally-ho. I love your can- do attitude. It's kind of heartening to know that Australia is not the only place with officice public servants. Keep up the good work. Merry Christmas to both of you and have a very productive new year, Cheers, Hugh 🎄👍⚓⛵⛵(🥃🥃)
Puzzled by "Never let your memories be greater than your dreams" motto. It seems to be saying, "Don't accomplish anything greater than your aspirations." It's like you aiming to be limited by your present vision. Just a thought.
Here is an explanation from online... "Memories represent your past, and your dreams represent your future. The wisdom of this quote is that you should always have more planned for your future than what you've accomplished in the past."
Thanks for showing up FlexySander applicator in action. It revealed an advantage over other scrapers and fairing tools. Covering fibreglass against the moisture, UV etc. is another difficult part. I found that even covered above it sucks moisture from down the ground. I think some sort of natural ventilation would required. With UV damages all non covered epoxy or polyureathane is yellowing and I guess will reguired additional cleaning and sanding after all. Great testing! I apreciate you find some time to show us this interesting part too.
So glad to see you using notched trowels for faring, I have suggested it to many before but sadly not taken up. I have seen boats fared in days not weeks with this method.
Those test are great but, it would be even more interesting to see axe tests where squares lay not against brick wall but against spaced bricks. The idea is to simulate real situation of hull hitting a stone hidden underneath the water in which case there is no brick wall supporting the hull. Great job anyway!
There’s An Australian. U tube where they build a foam filled boat centre consul from glass V Basalt . Then fire Heavy Magnum load bullets at them the basalt kills the magnum load dead it only cracks the gel coat . Basalt and Flax or linen makes for carbon lightness but more resilience . One of the ways basalt beats glass and carbon is on its resilience to de lamination … such as found in dragging and scrubbing. So trying to gouge basalt compared to glass is a good demo. It’s also safer and easier or as easy to work. One South African Company avoids a whole lot of complication by skipping the fine mesh layer and gel coat and just going direct to a float layer of epoxy over the smoother basalt.
From the perspective of getting views, shooting basalt and e-glass panels would probably be a success. How thick and how heavy does basalt need to be and glass fiber need to be to stop a pistol round (with whatever caliber you have available)? If you did that test I think a lot of people would tune-in. But then it might detract from your overall purpose here.
Yeah we agree. Good for sensationalism but that's about it. I think we are good with what we already did, after all, it was just for fun. We had already done the real research long before we purchased the basalt.
It would be great to invent an epoxy filler/sprayer similar to what builders use for spraying sheet rock textures. I also see that the auto body rebuilders now have a extra thick spray on primer/filler that reduces filler application labor and amounts. This technology might help with boat building. Huge amount of material waste and labor in fairing boats. If I ever built a catamaran again, I would do the copper bottom job on the hulls while upside-down. Also using permanent epoxy with the copper powder. ( not using any ablative bottom system ) Cheers Sail on
We did slightly fair the hull, but just enough to make the basalt cloth lay down without voids. It is best to laminate the next layer of cloth directly to the underlying laminate layer as that is stronger than fairing compound. Fairing compound is really just to make it smooth and rounded, so you want that on the final surface.
Also, just to note, we didn't use fairing compound before the basalt, we filled the small voids with a stronger mix of epoxy (no microspheres). When we got to fairing the hull after the basalt, we added microspheres to the epoxy to make that easier to sand.
Your hull if it was just glass is not just less stiffer than basalt if you hit it with a bigger impact point load the glass like carbon would shatter and also with glass start de laminating in tension. I will have to get back on my own phone to give you the test articles. There’s a a Belgium company that developed a basalt skinned bonded to a plastic honeycomb core for train interiors. Where the noise suppression and fire resistance of Basalt skinned materials is doubly adventitious.
Have you considered applying and sanding the fairing compound in diagonal strokes .... this tends to reduce the propogation of longitudinal and vertical (xy) waves/ripples as the trowel/board is referencing high points which are on a different axis to the originally laid material......if that makes sense. One other question do you know what the electrical conductivity characteristics are of the Basalt fibre compared to eglass, sglass and carbon fibre?
No, sorry, I'm not sure about the electrical conductivity. We weren't really concerned about it as even if it was less, there are many layers of fiberglass beneath. I'll see what I can find out, though.
As for applying in a diagonal, no, but we will, and have, used diagonal strokes for sanding to get rid of any high points. After sanding, we have tested the surface and found that it is coming out rounded nicely in all directions, no ripples, waves, dents, etc.
Basalt does not conduct electricity like carbon (graphite) fiber. Not sure how it compares to glass fibers, but it is definitely an insulator as opposed to a conductor.
As Hurricane Hilary approaches, could you please share what preparations and adjustments you are making to secure material storage, & job site to deal with the high winds and heavy rains? All the best, M-
Funny you should ask... we just spent the last hour taking down all tarps, then tying them over the boat parts. Everything else was moved inside our two storage containers. So, everything is secured down with clamps and ready for two days of rain and high winds. Looks like a short vacation for the build crew!
I had to use the closed captions so as to not disturb my wife. Basalt comes out most often as bat salt. a few times as asphalt. Twice as Basalt. Most sailing videos they tie the thingy to the dog. No one apparently wants to teach AI sailing terminology.
I am curious about your use of the laminating epoxy for fairing given how hard it was to get and the big-time delay. Typically, with laminating resin [poly or vinyl ester] it doesn't cure fully so you need to cover it with PVA or some other type of air barrier to fully cure before you can sand it without it gumming up the sandpaper. Does the epoxy do the same thing? I would not think that you would need the epoxy to be blush free given that you will need to sand it all between layers. On the leading edge, there is no real need to come to a sharp point and the non-reinforced fairing compound will make it very fragile. Even on supersonic planes the leading edge is rounded.
We don't have to cover the epoxy and it typically sands without gumming after 24 hours, sometimes less, depending on the temperature and humidity. The blush isn't an issue if you use peel ply, which we do. As for the sharp bow, by sharp we mean about a centimeter across. The sharp bow isn't really about extra speed as much as less spray sent back into our faces, which isn't an issue on planes ;)
I think maybe you are confusing peel ply with release film. The peel ply they are using is an absorbent fabric. Epoxy soaks into it to some extent and then cures. After you peel it off, it is loaded up with cured epoxy and can't be used a second time. Sometimes in vacuum bagging, you might have a release film that is not absorbent and could maybe be re-used. Also you might be able to re-use the outer layer, the vacuum bag itself. But they are not vacuum bagging.
I don't agree with the flexisander theory, a normal plywood board with an sharp edge and the right flex for that curvature will do just as good as the flexitools. Maybe the flexitools are somewhat more universal fitting to different curvature, but that's it. The advantage of plywood boards is they're much cheaper and easier to clean. And can be sharpened again. For an really fair surface you want to go across with compound in all directions, vertical, horizontal and diagonal in both directions. Sharpening something with the angle grinder doesn't really create an sharp edge but an containers in the water also doesn't have sharp edges. More interesting would have been slightly bigger samples hit with an real impact simulating an container corner. With these small samples supported by an stone against the wall the strength of that sample is not tested at all, just the impact on the outer layers.
Your comment already explains my reply! You say 'just as good' followed by 'somewhat more universal for fitting to different curvature' The reason we went with the flexitools is that they follow the changing curvature as we move across the surface. As for the high cost, I am a big believer in spending money on the best tools. Now, as to sharpening the axe with an angle grinder. I can tell you that it was exceedingly sharper compared to the first test. And, please remember that I noted that these tests were for fun, and not very scientific. Don't get too wrapped up in the details. Now, as for supporting them with a stone, that was the point. We were not testing flex, we wanted the impact to be as hard as possible to see how they would handle penetration. If the panels weren't supported, the flex would have absorbed some of the impact.
@@SailingSVLynx As written in an comment on last weeks video even the professional fairing companies on superyachts don't use these shameless expensive tools.... Plywood boards do follow the curvature just the same way. Tested it myself on my little and therefore strong curved boat.
@@andrebauer576 We'll have to disagree on those statements. I've seen other boat yards using these tools, it's where I got the original idea to use them. And, I don't believe the flex is the same. But, the good news is, you can use any tool you wish on your boat! I'll do the same.
@@SailingSVLynx But then you should have calculated the energy a container impact loads onto the laminate. And still the impact is not simulated realistically. As you said this is by far not a scientific test. Like this it's just a fake test for impressing dummies and calming your own mind. I haven't seen basalt used by any professional boatbuilder. I'm naval architect in the Superyacht industry but have participated in two high performance projects as well. One sailing and one power boat, both made of carbon.
careful with the fairing compound, silica is highly abrasive! on the second test the basalt wasn't hit directly also the reason basalt ISNT used on boats is the stifness is BAD when it comes to impact
That's why I would have liked to see the test done without a supporting stone behind against the wall but really just fixed on the edges and with an high energy impact instead of semi sharp axe. Containers in the water don't have sharp edges but there's a lot of energy involved and the hull has only some bulkheads and floors in maybe 1 m distance to strengthen the structure.
Well, that's not true. Basalt is used on boats, including cats. A simple search will show you that, but I will help you out. Look at Windelo catamarans. Secondly, carbon fiber is stiffer than basalt, and plenty of cats are built that way.
Here is one quote: "Professor Ignaas Verpoest at the Composites Dept. of the University of Leuven in Belgium, unidirectional prepregs were produced by impregnating E-glass and basalt roving with epoxy and winding each on a mandrel, and then compacting the laminate until complete cure was achieved. Samples of 135-mm by 15-mm (5.3-inches by 0.6-inch) were cut and measured for thickness. The pieces were then subjected to a three-point bending test (ISO 178) and the ILSS test (ISO 14130) to test strength and stiffness. Verpoest reports that each sample had a fiber volume fraction of 40 percent, but the basalt/epoxy sample's strength tested 13.7 percent higher than that of the E-glass sample and exhibited 17.5 percent greater stiffness, although the basalt sample was 3.6 percent heavier than the E-glass sample." But I have also read others.
@@SailingSVLynx And again I have to repeat the argument from last week that the use of ultralight materials like carbon, basalt and even glass for an high performance laminate doesn't make sense. Everyone uses infusion or vacuum bagging techniques to bond the layers as close as can. Reducing weight and increasing strength at the same time. Saving fairing compound on one hand and leaving to much resin inside the laminate doesn't make a lot of sense as well.
The difference in price was not that much, though there is a cost. The basalt was $3,000 and the fiberglass $1,500. We decided to spend the extra $1,500 for the added strength.
@@cnc75adventures49Ah, that was Larry the Cable Guy, or some cable guy. He was working on our cable and didn't want to ruin the shot so he peeked around the corner to see if I was still shooting.
i would get me a stripe of plastic or an alluminium strip and fortify it to make it flexible and allows for the perfect curvature... , make half a meter wide.. you might need two ... your tool looks like absolute rubbish... you also might want to create round edges on your fairing knife..
Peace of mind by using basault over glass is priceless. Can’t knock this and thanks for showing a form of composite I’ve never heard of. Great progress!
Hey Jeremy, thanks for commenting, we agree and that's why we spent a little extra... for peace of mind. :)
Carbon fibre is less elastic than glass fibre. So the carbon strip you put in the bulkhead will take all the load first. If it can’t take the load it will fail possibly causing it to delaminate from the glass fibre layer, as the glass fibre layer will stretch more under load. If you mix carbon layers with glass fibre use enough carbon to carry all the expected load.
We're not concerned about this since there are other areas across the bridge deck that mix carbon fiber and e-glass in the plans and Schionning has been doing this for a long time with lots of boats that have not failed.
@@SailingSVLynx I agree with the original poster. Naval architects may mix a little bit of carbon fiber in in key places, but that is based on knowledge of where the stresses will be. Randomly mixing carbon fiber with glass fiber is a bad idea per my understanding. Also, wherever the carbon fiber layer stops, stress will accumulate.
@@mckenziekeith7434 Do you think there is some "Random" Placement going on ?
I thought it was pretty logical, myself.
@@dnomyarnostaw maybe "random" is the wrong word. What I mean is I would not recommend intermingling carbon fiber and glass fiber unless the plans call for it. As a general practice it can't be recommended because the glass and carbon fibers have very different modulus and also different thermal coefficient of expansion. Naval architects may specify mixing carbon and glass, but if so, they will do so in areas where it won't cause any problem.
@@mckenziekeith7434 Very Interesting. I did some extra homework on the topic. (If you Google the Paragraph, you should get the whole topic)
"In the mixed carbon/fibreglass part, the tension force is not spread uniformly over the entire cross-section. The fibreglass, which has to 'give' a bit to accept a load, wants to stretch, but it's held back by the six-times-stiffer carbon fibre. The carbon, then, takes almost all of the load, leaving the fibreglass nearly unloaded. In essence, the cross-sectional area of the part is reduced to the cross-sectional area of the carbon fibre; the fibreglass can't come into play unless it is allowed to stretch slightly, and the stiff carbon has already taken most of the load before that can happen."
I suppose the E-Glass could just be the other side of the wood compression sandwich.
I suppose we just have to rely on the work of the NA, who earn the big bucks.
Really interesting episode. You are now officially in the same boat as tally-ho. I love your can- do attitude. It's kind of heartening to know that Australia is not the only place with officice public servants. Keep up the good work. Merry Christmas to both of you and have a very productive new year,
Cheers, Hugh 🎄👍⚓⛵⛵(🥃🥃)
Thanks, Hugh, the fates willing, we will sail to Australia on our voyage, maybe we can visit?
Found the basalt axe test very interesting....nice job on the bow, looks good, so far.
Not scientific, but a fun test none-the-less!
Very strong indeed, I thought there would have been more damage! Boat is looking great!
Yeah, it was interesting.
Puzzled by "Never let your memories be greater than your dreams" motto.
It seems to be saying, "Don't accomplish anything greater than your aspirations."
It's like you aiming to be limited by your present vision.
Just a thought.
It means, always be aiming higher than what you have already achieved.
@SailingSVLynx Oh. As a lifelong English speaker, that didn't come across.
Here is an explanation from online... "Memories represent your past, and your dreams represent your future. The wisdom of this quote is that you should always have more planned for your future than what you've accomplished in the past."
Thanks for showing up FlexySander applicator in action. It revealed an advantage over other scrapers and fairing tools. Covering fibreglass against the moisture, UV etc. is another difficult part. I found that even covered above it sucks moisture from down the ground. I think some sort of natural ventilation would required. With UV damages all non covered epoxy or polyureathane is yellowing and I guess will reguired additional cleaning and sanding after all. Great testing! I apreciate you find some time to show us this interesting part too.
NP, glad you enjoyed the episode.
So glad to see you using notched trowels for faring, I have suggested it to many before but sadly not taken up. I have seen boats fared in days not weeks with this method.
Well, we would have but we came up with our own method to reduce sanding.
_Dangerous test for sure!_
lol, yeah, I didn't want that axe to swing sideways into my ankle!
Those test are great but, it would be even more interesting to see axe tests where squares lay not against brick wall but against spaced bricks. The idea is to simulate real situation of hull hitting a stone hidden underneath the water in which case there is no brick wall supporting the hull.
Great job anyway!
I'll see what I can do in a future video (soon).
There’s An Australian. U tube where they build a foam filled boat centre consul from glass V Basalt . Then fire Heavy Magnum load bullets at them the basalt kills the magnum load dead it only cracks the gel coat . Basalt and Flax or linen makes for carbon lightness but more resilience .
One of the ways basalt beats glass and carbon is on its resilience to de lamination … such as found in dragging and scrubbing. So trying to gouge basalt compared to glass is a good demo. It’s also safer and easier or as easy to work. One South African Company avoids a whole lot of complication by skipping the fine mesh layer and gel coat and just going direct to a float layer of epoxy over the smoother basalt.
DUDE!!! Be careful... she'll give you the axe!!! LOL. Sorry ... I just couldn't resist .... after that intro!! LOL
Lol, never cross the Admiral.
From the perspective of getting views, shooting basalt and e-glass panels would probably be a success. How thick and how heavy does basalt need to be and glass fiber need to be to stop a pistol round (with whatever caliber you have available)? If you did that test I think a lot of people would tune-in. But then it might detract from your overall purpose here.
Yeah we agree. Good for sensationalism but that's about it. I think we are good with what we already did, after all, it was just for fun. We had already done the real research long before we purchased the basalt.
It would be great to invent an epoxy filler/sprayer similar to what builders use for spraying sheet rock textures. I also see that the auto body rebuilders now have a extra thick spray on primer/filler that reduces filler application labor and amounts. This technology might help with boat building. Huge amount of material waste and labor in fairing boats.
If I ever built a catamaran again, I would do the copper bottom job on the hulls while upside-down. Also using permanent epoxy with the copper powder. ( not using any ablative bottom system )
Cheers
Sail on
That would be nice, fairing is very annoying :)
Why not applying the fairing between the slats before the basalt?
I think that will give you a better surface to set the basalt sheets.
We did slightly fair the hull, but just enough to make the basalt cloth lay down without voids. It is best to laminate the next layer of cloth directly to the underlying laminate layer as that is stronger than fairing compound. Fairing compound is really just to make it smooth and rounded, so you want that on the final surface.
Also, just to note, we didn't use fairing compound before the basalt, we filled the small voids with a stronger mix of epoxy (no microspheres). When we got to fairing the hull after the basalt, we added microspheres to the epoxy to make that easier to sand.
That would have been a good idea (better idea). But I think it will be fine this way too.
Your hull if it was just glass is not just less stiffer than basalt if you hit it with a bigger impact point load the glass like carbon would shatter and also with glass start de laminating in tension. I will have to get back on my own phone to give you the test articles. There’s a a Belgium company that developed a basalt skinned bonded to a plastic honeycomb core for train interiors. Where the noise suppression and fire resistance of Basalt skinned materials is doubly adventitious.
Cool beans!
Have you considered applying and sanding the fairing compound in diagonal strokes .... this tends to reduce the propogation of longitudinal and vertical (xy) waves/ripples as the trowel/board is referencing high points which are on a different axis to the originally laid material......if that makes sense.
One other question do you know what the electrical conductivity characteristics are of the Basalt fibre compared to eglass, sglass and carbon fibre?
No, sorry, I'm not sure about the electrical conductivity. We weren't really concerned about it as even if it was less, there are many layers of fiberglass beneath. I'll see what I can find out, though.
As for applying in a diagonal, no, but we will, and have, used diagonal strokes for sanding to get rid of any high points. After sanding, we have tested the surface and found that it is coming out rounded nicely in all directions, no ripples, waves, dents, etc.
Basalt does not conduct electricity like carbon (graphite) fiber. Not sure how it compares to glass fibers, but it is definitely an insulator as opposed to a conductor.
As Hurricane Hilary approaches, could you please share what preparations and adjustments you are making to secure material storage, & job site to deal with the high winds and heavy rains?
All the best,
M-
Funny you should ask... we just spent the last hour taking down all tarps, then tying them over the boat parts. Everything else was moved inside our two storage containers. So, everything is secured down with clamps and ready for two days of rain and high winds. Looks like a short vacation for the build crew!
@@SailingSVLynx Stay safe and high and dry!
I had to use the closed captions so as to not disturb my wife. Basalt comes out most often as bat salt. a few times as asphalt. Twice as Basalt. Most sailing videos they tie the thingy to the dog. No one apparently wants to teach AI sailing terminology.
Wait, that CC was right, we used bar salt and asphalt on the hulls... ;)
I am curious about your use of the laminating epoxy for fairing given how hard it was to get and the big-time delay. Typically, with laminating resin [poly or vinyl ester] it doesn't cure fully so you need to cover it with PVA or some other type of air barrier to fully cure before you can sand it without it gumming up the sandpaper. Does the epoxy do the same thing? I would not think that you would need the epoxy to be blush free given that you will need to sand it all between layers.
On the leading edge, there is no real need to come to a sharp point and the non-reinforced fairing compound will make it very fragile. Even on supersonic planes the leading edge is rounded.
We don't have to cover the epoxy and it typically sands without gumming after 24 hours, sometimes less, depending on the temperature and humidity. The blush isn't an issue if you use peel ply, which we do. As for the sharp bow, by sharp we mean about a centimeter across. The sharp bow isn't really about extra speed as much as less spray sent back into our faces, which isn't an issue on planes ;)
😃
:)
How many times can you use a piece of peal ply? Is it a one time use or can you get multi use out of a single piece?
We use them once.
You can't use peel ply more than once. It soaks up resin which then hardens. You can't get the hardened resin out of it. It is a consumable.
you are doing great. question. do you reuse the peel ply? I see it can be used many times.
We haven't. We purchased enough for the build.
I think maybe you are confusing peel ply with release film. The peel ply they are using is an absorbent fabric. Epoxy soaks into it to some extent and then cures. After you peel it off, it is loaded up with cured epoxy and can't be used a second time. Sometimes in vacuum bagging, you might have a release film that is not absorbent and could maybe be re-used. Also you might be able to re-use the outer layer, the vacuum bag itself. But they are not vacuum bagging.
@@mckenziekeith7434 okay I was wondering. Could have saved a lot by reusing peel ply but cant use anything over that holds any epoxy.
Send me a couple to test. I will video and shoot them for you. I can use my own land since its legal to shoot where I live in Michigan.
Thanks for the offer, but we're good for now. Maybe we'll see you when we reach the Great Lakes.
Fun ! Where did you get your basalt from ?
We purchased through an Australian supplier, but he probably got it from China.
I don't agree with the flexisander theory, a normal plywood board with an sharp edge and the right flex for that curvature will do just as good as the flexitools. Maybe the flexitools are somewhat more universal fitting to different curvature, but that's it. The advantage of plywood boards is they're much cheaper and easier to clean. And can be sharpened again.
For an really fair surface you want to go across with compound in all directions, vertical, horizontal and diagonal in both directions.
Sharpening something with the angle grinder doesn't really create an sharp edge but an containers in the water also doesn't have sharp edges. More interesting would have been slightly bigger samples hit with an real impact simulating an container corner. With these small samples supported by an stone against the wall the strength of that sample is not tested at all, just the impact on the outer layers.
Your comment already explains my reply! You say 'just as good' followed by 'somewhat more universal for fitting to different curvature' The reason we went with the flexitools is that they follow the changing curvature as we move across the surface. As for the high cost, I am a big believer in spending money on the best tools.
Now, as to sharpening the axe with an angle grinder. I can tell you that it was exceedingly sharper compared to the first test. And, please remember that I noted that these tests were for fun, and not very scientific. Don't get too wrapped up in the details. Now, as for supporting them with a stone, that was the point. We were not testing flex, we wanted the impact to be as hard as possible to see how they would handle penetration. If the panels weren't supported, the flex would have absorbed some of the impact.
@@SailingSVLynx As written in an comment on last weeks video even the professional fairing companies on superyachts don't use these shameless expensive tools.... Plywood boards do follow the curvature just the same way. Tested it myself on my little and therefore strong curved boat.
@@andrebauer576 We'll have to disagree on those statements. I've seen other boat yards using these tools, it's where I got the original idea to use them. And, I don't believe the flex is the same. But, the good news is, you can use any tool you wish on your boat! I'll do the same.
@@SailingSVLynx But then you should have calculated the energy a container impact loads onto the laminate. And still the impact is not simulated realistically. As you said this is by far not a scientific test. Like this it's just a fake test for impressing dummies and calming your own mind. I haven't seen basalt used by any professional boatbuilder. I'm naval architect in the Superyacht industry but have participated in two high performance projects as well. One sailing and one power boat, both made of carbon.
@@andrebauer576 Windelo catamarans, for one.
How does the cost compare for basalt vs fiberglass? Is basalt available in the same weaves such as biaxial?
Yes, we have it in several weaves. The cost is slightly higher than e-glass, but less than s-glass and way less than carbon fiber.
Is that bassalt over carbon fiber hull? Seemed a little too extreme!!
No, the hull is not carbon fiber.
👍🧿
:)
You said Jared might have one built, where is he thinking of having it built?
Peru, possibly.
Is Jared also looking to do the same size as you all?
@@goofnoff2672 Garrett... and yes, a 50', though he is leaning towards a G-Force.
careful with the fairing compound, silica is highly abrasive! on the second test the basalt wasn't hit directly also the reason basalt ISNT used on boats is the stifness is BAD when it comes to impact
Where‘s that info from?
I‘ve found only one study which showed a 35% increased impact resistance compared to glass.
That's why I would have liked to see the test done without a supporting stone behind against the wall but really just fixed on the edges and with an high energy impact instead of semi sharp axe. Containers in the water don't have sharp edges but there's a lot of energy involved and the hull has only some bulkheads and floors in maybe 1 m distance to strengthen the structure.
Well, that's not true. Basalt is used on boats, including cats. A simple search will show you that, but I will help you out. Look at Windelo catamarans. Secondly, carbon fiber is stiffer than basalt, and plenty of cats are built that way.
Here is one quote: "Professor Ignaas Verpoest at the Composites Dept. of the University of Leuven in Belgium, unidirectional prepregs were produced by impregnating E-glass and basalt roving with epoxy and winding each on a mandrel, and then compacting the laminate until complete cure was achieved. Samples of 135-mm by 15-mm (5.3-inches by 0.6-inch) were cut and measured for thickness. The pieces were then subjected to a three-point bending test (ISO 178) and the ILSS test (ISO 14130) to test strength and stiffness. Verpoest reports that each sample had a fiber volume fraction of 40 percent, but the basalt/epoxy sample's strength tested 13.7 percent higher than that of the E-glass sample and exhibited 17.5 percent greater stiffness, although the basalt sample was 3.6 percent heavier than the E-glass sample." But I have also read others.
@@SailingSVLynx And again I have to repeat the argument from last week that the use of ultralight materials like carbon, basalt and even glass for an high performance laminate doesn't make sense. Everyone uses infusion or vacuum bagging techniques to bond the layers as close as can. Reducing weight and increasing strength at the same time. Saving fairing compound on one hand and leaving to much resin inside the laminate doesn't make a lot of sense as well.
Cannot believe the grief you have been given in the comments, for a declared unscientific set of tests that were done for fun.😳
It was fun, regardless of comments. :)
You forgot the main thing the cost of basalt to fibre
The difference in price was not that much, though there is a cost. The basalt was $3,000 and the fiberglass $1,500. We decided to spend the extra $1,500 for the added strength.
What’s up with your neighbor sneaking a video of you testing???
I must have missed that, I will watch again :)
@@SailingSVLynx about the time you where measuring the third test piece 👍👍
@@cnc75adventures49Ah, that was Larry the Cable Guy, or some cable guy. He was working on our cable and didn't want to ruin the shot so he peeked around the corner to see if I was still shooting.
@@SailingSVLynx lol I did first think it was the paparazzi 👍👍
i would get me a stripe of plastic or an alluminium strip and fortify it to make it flexible and allows for the perfect curvature... , make half a meter wide.. you might need two ...
your tool looks like absolute rubbish...
you also might want to create round edges on your fairing knife..
Not sure what you are referring to, if you mean the flexisander tools, they work great.