Hi Steve, thanks and great video as usual. Your distributor looks to be fairly new but for those who may have more experienced ones it might be worth mentioning a few more steps. Very important to test for excessive play from the upper shaft bearing/bushing. As well the importance of the advance weights and springs just below the points being able to move freely for the mechanical advance portion of the distributor. It makes my day when there is another Steve Denton video in the mail. Thanks and stay safe.
Cheers James, that's really nice of you to say so. And yes your quite right, my dizzy is only about 6 months old as the one that was on the car when I brought it was worn out, it was more cost efficient to just buy a new one. You are right with a worn shaft bearing will cause poor running as well as the bob weights not operating correctly will cause poor acceleration. Cheers mate, keep well and stay safe my friend
Yep, I’m a fan of Pertronix and run them in mine. Having said that, as part of the parts I pack in the boot, I carry spares to convert it back to stock if I have issues. Quick tip for anyone that switches to Pertronix, never leave your key on without the engine running for an extended period of time...
Switched to Pertronix ignition in my Spitfire about 5 years ago, and it hasn't missed a beat. Definitely one of the most worthwhile upgrades you can do.
Great job on that one...it is good to see you riding down the road for a beer run...I noticed that you had restocked your stash in the virtual fridge...I will make sure they are good and cold 🥶 when ever you stop by the virtual shop...cheers!!!
Hi Steve, sorry for my late response, but thanks very much for yr answers to my question. It will certainly be of great help and coming holidays season. Gearbox comes last but surely hope to solve problem before. Thanks again for all your help. Best regards eric
@@SteveDentonClassics Absolutely agree with you. The points you get these days aren't anything like the quality of the old ones either, so electric ignition seems like a no-brainer.
Nice video. Just got a MGB, and am looking forward (and dreading) the projects to come. Alot of people recommend the electronic ignition, seems like a good upgrade! Did you have to change the alternator at all, or the coil to do this?
Great video as always Steve, I'm not sure if it's my hearing but the music seems a little louder than I find comfortable against your voice if that makes sense? I'm not a massive fan of electronic ignition, and find it amusing that people carry points for when it goes wrong. I think having points to fit/adjust helps keep the maintenence routine going, rather than a fit and forget approach. That's just my opinion of course.
Cheers mate, I’ll bare what you say in mind with the music for next video. As for points vs electronic ignition, well I’m all for points. My TR6 is on points and always has been. But it’s all depending where you buy your parts from. Distributor doctor makes the best condensers on the market, and with my cars on points I only buy from him. The only reason I’ve converted the MGB to electronic ignition was because I intend to use it all year round, and messing about with points on a cold rainy day in the middle of nowhere is no fun
Great stuff! Electronic ignition transformed mine although I went for the 123 unit. Upon further investigation It would seem that my old distributor was from a Land Rover!
Yep, I've been tempted by the cheap versions too, but so concerned about being left at the side of the road ! Do you have carbon HT leads or solid core type ?
The cheap ones are hit and miss, if you go down that path for how much the cheap ones cost, its worth keeping a second one in the glove box. As for HT leads, on the MGB, I had them custom made, solid core I think they were. Talking of which I also run Pertronix on my 1967 Spitfire, and this runs with standard HT leads, stock plugs and a Lucas Gold coil, runs a dream 👍
Electronic ignition is the way to go for reliability but part of the fun back in the day was breaking down at night with the girlfriend in the passenger seat (until you miraculously found a screwdriver later on to adjust the points with !).
Learning lots. Does the TR6 Petronix have it's own base, or does it use stock one? My TR has the Petronix, but many carry points as spares for when it all goes wrong. Need to know what spares to carry. thanks Steve
Just looking at the parts magazine from Moss Europe it looks like the Petronix on a TR6 uses the Lucas base place. Some do, some don't, your best off ringing up Moss Europe and asking them to confirm weather it does or doesn't. As for carrying a set of points in the glove box, I would highly recommend it, at least with points you know you can get home if the electronic ignition fails. Cheers Graham, stay safe and keep well my friend!!
Hi Steve, I have a 1979 MGB GT with ballast wire, does the red wire fit direct onto the coil as in your video, as some cheaper kits the red wire does not go directly to the coil because of the ballast wire...thanks...
If it's a ballast type, then you need to check what you have purchased is for a ballast type one. The wiring should be the same regardless of ballast or none ballast. The simple solution for a ballast car is to bi pass the ballast, and run a wire direct from an ignition switched fused wire in the fuse box to the ignition coil, then wire up as a non ballast type 👍
Hi Steve, enjoy very much yr technical skills and theory. I am busy trying to upgrade my tr6 1975 and have great trouble finding solution for the great strenght I have to put on the clutch pedal Any idea what could be wrong. Put in new slave cilinder but still the pedal demands great strenght. Hope to hear from you. Thanks very much, eric
Could be the cross shaft bolt has sheared, or partially sheared. I’ve had that on a friends car causing a heavy if at all clutch. It worth going over the basics first. Check the pedal bushes are ok, then take a look at the pedal where it joins to the master cylinder. You can get excessive wear from the clevis pin on the pedal. Check everything is bled correctly. Check the slave is in the correct slot and is adjusted correctly. Moss motors do an adjustable slave cylinder rod, there a little expensive for what they are but well worth buying. If all that fails you’ll have to get the gearbox out. And check the cross shaft. Also do check the cross shaft bushes, I’ve seen them worn out causing a heavy pedal. Then as I said look at the folk to make sure the pivot bolt has not sheared, and the bearing is in good condition. As for the clutch, if you can get a laycock you’ll find it much lighter than most others, but again you’ll pay more for one of them, but they are worthwhile. Hope this all helps, cheers Steve
@@SteveDentonClassics thanks Steve! I have a ‘73 B and ‘74 TR6 I’m in the US. Your videos have encouraged me to push myself and do my own work. Keep up the good work! Bob
Hi Steve. 1.38 "it's impossible to fit it incorrectly" ahh! Do you want me have a go!!😂😂😂 good one mate. You do make it look so easy! The final clip, is that before the change? She just sounds lethargic for the want of a better word. You've spent a few quid on her recently. Now you've got me having a look at buying one! ( Mrs. Davey will not approve!) Take care and stay safe.
Hahaha, now what's the expression... there's always one. The exhaust note at the end was after the change, I'm afraid that's just how the car is. There's a lot more modifications in the pipe line for the B, by no means will it ever be standard. It's great really as all my other cars are standard so it's nice to have one I can relax over weather its historically correct. Take care too mate, and stay safe!!
I fitted a 123 distributor from Holland on my B as the body of the original Lucas was cracked at some stage in the past. Starts first time, every time. Well worth the price and good bye to the unit made by the Prince of Darkness.
It's unlikely to make much power difference between a well set up points and condenser and electronic ignition on standard set up. You just get a more consistence spark, and it becomes more reliable. For more power you would have to be playing around with changing camshafts, exhausts, fueling for say Webbers or rejetting the SU's, then bringing back the ignition timing for the all of this 👍
You can do it without removing the distributor, it's just easier to see what your doing with it on a bench as it's buried in the engine bay on an MGB 👍
In all honestly I don't mind either points and condenser or electronic ignition. My TR6 has been running on points for the last 12 years, and I'm happy enough leaving that on points, I like setting them up and getting that to run right on points. With the MGB it was just a case of convenience for me that I converted it to electronic ignition 👍
@@SteveDentonClassics Agreed. Just one point, always have points and condenser with you just in case the electronic ignition fails. If electronics go, they cant be fixed at the side of the road.
Oh yeah, I couldn't agree more, I always run with a number of spares basics like that in the glovebox, along with spark plugs, rotor arm etc. That's what I love about classic cars, you can fix them at the side of the road if someone goes wrong and make your way home 👍
@@SteveDentonClassics They somehow have a soul from previous owners and once restored carried forward to the next owner. You cannot be more environmentally friendly.
Great info but that bloody back ground music not only is it double the volume than your voice you couldn't have picked a more annoying shrill noise I had to keep turning the volume up and down every time you put the music on.😣
Cheers mate, music is one of them really, you've either going to like it or not. In newer videos I've tried harder to balance it out so it's more level with my voice when I'm not talking, and much lower in volume when I am talking
A Triumph TR7 has a geared Delco distributor, not a slotted Lucas one like on the MGB, and various other Triumphs. So you will therefore need to time up the distributor to number one cylinder, note the position of the rotor arm, and position on the distributor before you undo the two securing bolts to the engine. Then depending on the ignition system you use, you may have to strip the distributor to install the ignition system (you do with lumention on TR7 and Dolomites). When reinstalling you'll have to reset the timing on a strobe light before tightening down the securing bolts. One day I may do a video on it, watch this space 👍
You can fit as much as you like when it comes to an MGB, there are plenty of company’s out there that do modern mods for them. It just comes down to how much you want to spend
@@SteveDentonClassics AHH that's good, I've had old carbs before and they changed depending on the weather from my experience, would love a classic on modern ECU running smooth and reliable
The most essential journey that you could ever have in a car you’ve saved, well done matey
Cheers buddy, I’d say beer is without a doubt an essential 👍🏻
Watched your video today. Installed electronic points with your help. Thanks.
Glad it helped 👍
Hi Steve, thanks and great video as usual. Your distributor looks to be fairly new but for those who may have more experienced ones it might be worth mentioning a few more steps. Very important to test for excessive play from the upper shaft bearing/bushing. As well the importance of the advance weights and springs just below the points being able to move freely for the mechanical advance portion of the distributor. It makes my day when there is another Steve Denton video in the mail. Thanks and stay safe.
Cheers James, that's really nice of you to say so. And yes your quite right, my dizzy is only about 6 months old as the one that was on the car when I brought it was worn out, it was more cost efficient to just buy a new one. You are right with a worn shaft bearing will cause poor running as well as the bob weights not operating correctly will cause poor acceleration. Cheers mate, keep well and stay safe my friend
Wow Steve, excellent and simple, thanks a million for sharing
No probs Kieran, you're welcome 👍
Just got my first MGB (79) and first issue has been the distributor! your video was very helpful, thank you
Good stuff, glad my video has helped you 👍
Yep, I’m a fan of Pertronix and run them in mine. Having said that, as part of the parts I pack in the boot, I carry spares to convert it back to stock if I have issues. Quick tip for anyone that switches to Pertronix, never leave your key on without the engine running for an extended period of time...
I'm just the same, always keep the points, just in case
That applies to the Pertonix I only. Fixed in Pertonix II.
Switched to Pertronix ignition in my Spitfire about 5 years ago, and it hasn't missed a beat. Definitely one of the most worthwhile upgrades you can do.
Definitely agree, the way I see it is fit and and forget 👍🏻
Good job nice to see you enjoying this classic, just starting mine cant wait👍
Cheers mate, glade to hear 👍
Great job on that one...it is good to see you riding down the road for a beer run...I noticed that you had restocked your stash in the virtual fridge...I will make sure they are good and cold 🥶 when ever you stop by the virtual shop...cheers!!!
Cheers Robert!! Have a beer on me mate 🍺👍🏻
Steve Denton “gurgling noise”...”happy sigh”
Nice one Steve. I like these videos that show the simple, commonish tasks that we've got to do on these cars.
Cheers mate, I do try to keep my videos like this, as I find it helpful to people
Hi Steve, sorry for my late response, but thanks very much for yr answers to my question. It will certainly be of great help and coming holidays season. Gearbox comes last but surely hope to solve problem before. Thanks again for all your help. Best regards eric
Your welcome Eric and hope all goes well with it, cheers Steve
Tremendous work. I'm putting an electric ignition in my MGB this week.
Great stuff, no more adjusting points, electronic ignition is fit and forget 👍
@@SteveDentonClassics Absolutely agree with you. The points you get these days aren't anything like the quality of the old ones either, so electric ignition seems like a no-brainer.
Nice video. Just got a MGB, and am looking forward (and dreading) the projects to come. Alot of people recommend the electronic ignition, seems like a good upgrade! Did you have to change the alternator at all, or the coil to do this?
Your MG sure sounds good Steve,,,,have to love that growl !!! Thanks for sharing ,,,
Take care,,,,,be safe buddy
Cheers Doug, I love it. Don’t sound like a typical MGB, it sounds like the car I want it to be, a rat car!! Stay safe and keep well too mate 👍🏻
Thanks so much!😊
Great video as always Steve, I'm not sure if it's my hearing but the music seems a little louder than I find comfortable against your voice if that makes sense?
I'm not a massive fan of electronic ignition, and find it amusing that people carry points for when it goes wrong. I think having points to fit/adjust helps keep the maintenence routine going, rather than a fit and forget approach. That's just my opinion of course.
Cheers mate, I’ll bare what you say in mind with the music for next video. As for points vs electronic ignition, well I’m all for points. My TR6 is on points and always has been. But it’s all depending where you buy your parts from. Distributor doctor makes the best condensers on the market, and with my cars on points I only buy from him. The only reason I’ve converted the MGB to electronic ignition was because I intend to use it all year round, and messing about with points on a cold rainy day in the middle of nowhere is no fun
@@SteveDentonClassics that's a good 'point' about what's available and inferior parts will only let you down. Anyway have fun with the MGB 👍
Agreed the the music comment.
Good job well done and a nice commentary. Cheers Bob
Cheers Bob, glade you enjoyed watching 👍
Great stuff! Electronic ignition transformed mine although I went for the 123 unit. Upon further investigation It would seem that my old distributor was from a Land Rover!
Oh awesome!! 123 dizzy are like the creme de la creme of dizzys as you can program and fine tune them to your car's set up
another great video!
Cheers mate 👍
Yep, I've been tempted by the cheap versions too, but so concerned about being left at the side of the road !
Do you have carbon HT leads or solid core type ?
The cheap ones are hit and miss, if you go down that path for how much the cheap ones cost, its worth keeping a second one in the glove box. As for HT leads, on the MGB, I had them custom made, solid core I think they were. Talking of which I also run Pertronix on my 1967 Spitfire, and this runs with standard HT leads, stock plugs and a Lucas Gold coil, runs a dream 👍
Will you ever make a video on how to make adjustments or check the timing on a MGB with a pertronix system?
I'm afraid not, once set up, and checked with a strop light, theoretically, you never need to touch it again
Electronic ignition is the way to go for reliability but part of the fun back in the day was breaking down at night with the girlfriend in the passenger seat (until you miraculously found a screwdriver later on to adjust the points with !).
Haha, now that sounds like the sort of thing I used to get up to with my first Spitfire, when it was my daily driver some some 15 years ago
My car always broke down when IT wanted to not when l wanted it to! 😂😂😂
Learning lots. Does the TR6 Petronix have it's own base, or does it use stock one? My TR has the Petronix, but many carry points as spares for when it all goes wrong. Need to know what spares to carry. thanks Steve
Just looking at the parts magazine from Moss Europe it looks like the Petronix on a TR6 uses the Lucas base place. Some do, some don't, your best off ringing up Moss Europe and asking them to confirm weather it does or doesn't. As for carrying a set of points in the glove box, I would highly recommend it, at least with points you know you can get home if the electronic ignition fails. Cheers Graham, stay safe and keep well my friend!!
Steve Denton thanks Steve, stay well also.
Graham
Hi Steve, I have a 1979 MGB GT with ballast wire, does the red wire fit direct onto the coil as in your video, as some cheaper kits the red wire does not go directly to the coil because of the ballast wire...thanks...
If it's a ballast type, then you need to check what you have purchased is for a ballast type one. The wiring should be the same regardless of ballast or none ballast. The simple solution for a ballast car is to bi pass the ballast, and run a wire direct from an ignition switched fused wire in the fuse box to the ignition coil, then wire up as a non ballast type 👍
@@SteveDentonClassics sounds good Steve, many thanks for your advice, and love your vids by the way...
You're welcome and and thank you 👍
Hi Steve, enjoy very much yr technical skills and theory. I am busy trying to upgrade my tr6 1975 and have great trouble finding solution for the great strenght I have to put on the clutch pedal
Any idea what could be wrong. Put in new slave cilinder but still the pedal demands great strenght. Hope to hear from you. Thanks very much, eric
Could be the cross shaft bolt has sheared, or partially sheared. I’ve had that on a friends car causing a heavy if at all clutch. It worth going over the basics first. Check the pedal bushes are ok, then take a look at the pedal where it joins to the master cylinder. You can get excessive wear from the clevis pin on the pedal. Check everything is bled correctly. Check the slave is in the correct slot and is adjusted correctly. Moss motors do an adjustable slave cylinder rod, there a little expensive for what they are but well worth buying. If all that fails you’ll have to get the gearbox out. And check the cross shaft. Also do check the cross shaft bushes, I’ve seen them worn out causing a heavy pedal. Then as I said look at the folk to make sure the pivot bolt has not sheared, and the bearing is in good condition. As for the clutch, if you can get a laycock you’ll find it much lighter than most others, but again you’ll pay more for one of them, but they are worthwhile. Hope this all helps, cheers Steve
Steve, what brand of timing light do you use?
Hi Bob, my timing light is a snap on 👍🏻
@@SteveDentonClassics thanks Steve! I have a ‘73 B and ‘74 TR6 I’m in the US. Your videos have encouraged me to push myself and do my own work. Keep up the good work! Bob
Hi Steve. 1.38 "it's impossible to fit it incorrectly" ahh! Do you want me have a go!!😂😂😂 good one mate. You do make it look so easy! The final clip, is that before the change? She just sounds lethargic for the want of a better word. You've spent a few quid on her recently. Now you've got me having a look at buying one! ( Mrs. Davey will not approve!) Take care and stay safe.
Hahaha, now what's the expression... there's always one. The exhaust note at the end was after the change, I'm afraid that's just how the car is. There's a lot more modifications in the pipe line for the B, by no means will it ever be standard. It's great really as all my other cars are standard so it's nice to have one I can relax over weather its historically correct. Take care too mate, and stay safe!!
I fitted a 123 distributor from Holland on my B as the body of the original Lucas was cracked at some stage in the past. Starts first time, every time. Well worth the price and good bye to the unit made by the Prince of Darkness.
Couldn't agree more, 123 distributors are excellent distributors, well worth the money, and very well made
so does that give the car better power?
It's unlikely to make much power difference between a well set up points and condenser and electronic ignition on standard set up. You just get a more consistence spark, and it becomes more reliable. For more power you would have to be playing around with changing camshafts, exhausts, fueling for say Webbers or rejetting the SU's, then bringing back the ignition timing for the all of this 👍
Great video - I do find the background music a bit loud & unnecessary though
Cheers mate, it was an early video of mine, looking back I should have turned the music down a little 👍
Do I need to remove the distributor
You can do it without removing the distributor, it's just easier to see what your doing with it on a bench as it's buried in the engine bay on an MGB 👍
For that cost I'd bin the distributor completely and fit a megajolt or something similar
It's horses for courses really, I just like it as it's discrete within the distributor, and I've always got on well with Pertronix Ignition Systems 👍
@@SteveDentonClassics fair enough 🙂. I love being able to tweak the ignition map on the go with the MJ, and fitting / setup is dead easy.
I'd rather stay with the points and condenser and carry a spare set in the glove box. They are easy to replace, adjust and reliable enough.
In all honestly I don't mind either points and condenser or electronic ignition. My TR6 has been running on points for the last 12 years, and I'm happy enough leaving that on points, I like setting them up and getting that to run right on points. With the MGB it was just a case of convenience for me that I converted it to electronic ignition 👍
@@SteveDentonClassics Agreed. Just one point, always have points and condenser with you just in case the electronic ignition fails. If electronics go, they cant be fixed at the side of the road.
Oh yeah, I couldn't agree more, I always run with a number of spares basics like that in the glovebox, along with spark plugs, rotor arm etc. That's what I love about classic cars, you can fix them at the side of the road if someone goes wrong and make your way home 👍
@@SteveDentonClassics They somehow have a soul from previous owners and once restored carried forward to the next owner. You cannot be more environmentally friendly.
So true 👍
Great info but that bloody back ground music not only is it double the volume than your voice you couldn't have picked a more annoying shrill noise I had to keep turning the volume up and down every time you put the music on.😣
Cheers mate, music is one of them really, you've either going to like it or not. In newer videos I've tried harder to balance it out so it's more level with my voice when I'm not talking, and much lower in volume when I am talking
how easy is that on a tr7?
A Triumph TR7 has a geared Delco distributor, not a slotted Lucas one like on the MGB, and various other Triumphs. So you will therefore need to time up the distributor to number one cylinder, note the position of the rotor arm, and position on the distributor before you undo the two securing bolts to the engine. Then depending on the ignition system you use, you may have to strip the distributor to install the ignition system (you do with lumention on TR7 and Dolomites). When reinstalling you'll have to reset the timing on a strobe light before tightening down the securing bolts. One day I may do a video on it, watch this space 👍
pity you got bloody music playing whilst your talking makes it hard to hear what you are saying
At some point I’ll re release the video with lower music
Is it possible to fit a full modern ignition system including injection, ECU coil pack etc?
You can fit as much as you like when it comes to an MGB, there are plenty of company’s out there that do modern mods for them. It just comes down to how much you want to spend
@@SteveDentonClassics AHH that's good, I've had old carbs before and they changed depending on the weather from my experience, would love a classic on modern ECU running smooth and reliable