Rick, I’m glad I was correct about the bearing. I first noticed this when I was replacing the bearing in a Penn 704 Greenie. The large 700 and 704 Greenies as well as the 704Z and 706Z also use this exact same bearing size. It is so nice when the same bearing works for so many different reels! - Chris
You are working on one my favorite lightweight reels from Japan. I own two complete sets of all the Daiwa Siver Series Spinning Reels except for one. I greatly dislike the 1500C and vowed never to buy another one. I have replaced the sideplate bushing with a bearing in all of my 1000C, 700C and 50oC reels and they all work perfectly and smoother than they were at first. I honestly recommend replacing the bushing with a bearing. I know why you don’t want to but I’ve tried it and it worked great for me. There’s a UA-cam video about doing this bearing addition to a 500C I think. Now the best two or three Japanese made ultralight reels I own include the Daiwa 8300 and 9100 which are worm gear reels and the Ryobi Powerful mini which has that intermediates gear between the oscillation gear and the main gear. The 8300 and Ryobi Powerful mini both have two ball bearings and the 8100 has one. Seriously Rick you should try replacing that bushing with a bearing if you have one that fits. You can easily take it back out and replace the bushing. The reason I use the grease around the bearing is that they are all my reels and I know the bearings will not stay in those reels untouched for years. If I wasn’t certain of that or if I was going to sell the reel then I might use oil on the bearing cup or socket instead of grease. I guess I could kick the bucket tomorrow and mess that plan up but I’m certain I would no longer care. LOL. I have to admit I was snickering a bit as you put the side plate on. There’s an easier way to do that with that spring-loaded AR dog but I don’t know how to describe it to you here. Your way did work fine eventually. Those are Teflon drag washers. I don’t grease them. You weren’t using but a touch of grease anyway though. Was your top drag washer just steel? If it was that was odd as neither of mine were like that as they had a gold colored top washer that was not magnetic. Try the side bearing Rick. I think you’ll like it. Great video of a job well done! - Chris. PS. I kept the bushings just in case.
All of this discussion is assuming the Daiwa 1000C reel is mine to do with as I please. It isn't. This reel belongs to Ken and I'm just doing a quick service on it so he can turn around and sell it on Ebay. As for those drag washers, they had been exposed to a lot of micro sands and had become very rough. I was afraid they might skip if I didn't give them just a little assistance. All three metal drag washers appeared to be just plain mild steel. One of them had a touch of rust pitting and the other two were just oily and dirty. I would never be comfortable replacing shouldered style bushing in a reel with none shouldered bearings as you suggest. I believe they put those shoulders in there for a reason. I think it is for strength and stability. The reel may operate smoothly but I think under heavy load the bearings may allow the main gear to twist or shift and compromise the teeth. I'm not an engineer or a mathematician so I'll not try to prove that. It's just my gut feeling. I think I'd better get back to servicing reels the way they were made, instead of trying to design them in my head. 🙂
@@youngmartinsreels5314Rick, I agree. If it wasn’t my reel I wouldn’t go beyond keeping the reel just as it was manufactured. Maybe I might replace worn drag washers but that’s it. I did not realize you did not own this reel. - Chris
Just an FYI you can replace that bushing with a bearing for the SS no.1 and GS1, it's something a lot of people do. I suppose that bushing is the way it is for a reason though, so I chose to get the more desirable higher priced SS no.1 because it's already got that bearing and 2 parts are metal instead of plastic. The SS no.1 and GS1 are the same reel, one gold and one Silver, both being predecessors to the 100c with identical body castings Most of the parts are interchangeable, but these 2 earlier models have a bearing for the main gear instead of a bushing . I see here that the crosswind block is shaped a bit differently, and it has a removable 2nd bushing, but otherwise the only other differences are the screw cap and anti reverse lever which went to plastic on the 1000c. I do like my SS no.1 with all aspects considered, but I have to rank it as a B+ at most compared to the Shakey 2052 and Penn 716 which are A & A+ grade reels. it's miles ahead of modern reels in my opinion so I really can't hate it and know I'll enjoy catching bluegill with it for sure.
Tyler, I wouldn’t ever replace a bronze bushing with a bearing. I’ve found plenty of bad bearings but I’ve seldom seen a worn out bronze bushing. The bearing might be smoother but for durability it’s really hard to beat the bronze bushings. As for plastic handles on the AR override, those handles are plastic but they are tough as nails. The only ones I’ve ever seen break were on South Bend reels and they were a soft plastic. I really like the 2052 but I’m not crazy about the plastic spool. I haven’t seen one fail but I have seen plastic spools fail on other reels before and that makes me a little bit cautious. The worm gear though is very nice. I haven’t worked on a Penn 716 before so I’ll reserve judgement on that reel.
Tyler, I have a Penn 722Z and a Penn 720 Greenie that I think are pretty decent ultralight reels. You are right about the 714Z and 718Z ultralights. They are just a little pricey for a vintage saltwater spinning reel collector and surf fisherman like me. I also have a French Bretton 400 and 805 that are both excellent vintage light-weight reels too. I don’t rate reels like you do. It’s very simple for me. I get vintage reels from brands I’ve liked in the past and evaluate them as I see them and use them. I try not to so much evaluate them across different brands or models but rather on their own merits or deficiencies. Everything I say about one of my reels is based on my personal experience and evaluation - in other words my personal opinion. This just works for me. At nearly 70 yrs. old I guess I’m pretty set in my ways now. LOL! - Chris. PS. I agree with Rick about the plastic parts as there are many grades of plastic. I’ve had far mor metal parts crack on me anyway.
@@youngmartinsreels5314 the 716 is a lot like the 2052 with a very very similar mechanism, but a number of the things are upgraded. I have a hard time saying it's indisputably better, but the bail is more solid and the spool is of course aluminum.
So do you believe that the Super Lube will not degrade over a period of 40 or 50 years. Many of the reels i service have not been serviced for that long and it could be that long again before someone goes into them again. Besides, I and my subscribers use many different brands of reel grease. I recommend not doing it with any grease. Each person can make there own choices.
@@youngmartinsreels5314 don't know what the synthetic base is of Super Lube, but PTFE is Teflon has a life of about 30/35 years before it degrades, hopefully the reel would have been serviced before then 😉
Ii did not know this about Super Lube but I have used it for years. I suggested Rick try Suprr Lube almost a year ago. I learned when a friend of mine (retired now) who was my mentor with French-made Mitchell reels. He never used any reel grease but Super Lube. I still use Penn grease on certain reels but never on Mitchells or other French-made vintage reels like Bretton,Luxor, Hellion et Punch, and Peerless BAM. Glad to know there is another fan of Super Lube out there. I know my reels will never go without servicing for 30 years or more unless I kick the bucket sooner than I hope. If that happens I can assure that it won’t matter to me anymore! I will use Penn grease on excessively worn spinning reels or overly large and heavy saltwater spinning reels. I collect mostly saltwater spinning reels and have nearly 350 reels in my collection. - Chris
Great job!
Looks good 💯
This reel and the 500c are my 2 favorite creek reels. Along with a Garcia 408 and Penn 716
Don't forget the Dam 265 microlite reel.
Rick, I’m glad I was correct about the bearing. I first noticed this when I was replacing the bearing in a Penn 704 Greenie. The large 700 and 704 Greenies as well as the 704Z and 706Z also use this exact same bearing size. It is so nice when the same bearing works for so many different reels! - Chris
You are working on one my favorite lightweight reels from Japan. I own two complete sets of all the Daiwa Siver Series Spinning Reels except for one. I greatly dislike the 1500C and vowed never to buy another one. I have replaced the sideplate bushing with a bearing in all of my 1000C, 700C and 50oC reels and they all work perfectly and smoother than they were at first. I honestly recommend replacing the bushing with a bearing. I know why you don’t want to but I’ve tried it and it worked great for me. There’s a UA-cam video about doing this bearing addition to a 500C I think. Now the best two or three Japanese made ultralight reels I own include the Daiwa 8300 and 9100 which are worm gear reels and the Ryobi Powerful mini which has that intermediates gear between the oscillation gear and the main gear. The 8300 and Ryobi Powerful mini both have two ball bearings and the 8100 has one. Seriously Rick you should try replacing that bushing with a bearing if you have one that fits. You can easily take it back out and replace the bushing. The reason I use the grease around the bearing is that they are all my reels and I know the bearings will not stay in those reels untouched for years. If I wasn’t certain of that or if I was going to sell the reel then I might use oil on the bearing cup or socket instead of grease. I guess I could kick the bucket tomorrow and mess that plan up but I’m certain I would no longer care. LOL. I have to admit I was snickering a bit as you put the side plate on. There’s an easier way to do that with that spring-loaded AR dog but I don’t know how to describe it to you here. Your way did work fine eventually. Those are Teflon drag washers. I don’t grease them. You weren’t using but a touch of grease anyway though. Was your top drag washer just steel? If it was that was odd as neither of mine were like that as they had a gold colored top washer that was not magnetic. Try the side bearing Rick. I think you’ll like it. Great video of a job well done! - Chris. PS. I kept the bushings just in case.
All of this discussion is assuming the Daiwa 1000C reel is mine to do with as I please. It isn't. This reel belongs to Ken and I'm just doing a quick service on it so he can turn around and sell it on Ebay.
As for those drag washers, they had been exposed to a lot of micro sands and had become very rough. I was afraid they might skip if I didn't give them just a little assistance. All three metal drag washers appeared to be just plain mild steel. One of them had a touch of rust pitting and the other two were just oily and dirty.
I would never be comfortable replacing shouldered style bushing in a reel with none shouldered bearings as you suggest. I believe they put those shoulders in there for a reason. I think it is for strength and stability. The reel may operate smoothly but I think under heavy load the bearings may allow the main gear to twist or shift and compromise the teeth. I'm not an engineer or a mathematician so I'll not try to prove that. It's just my gut feeling. I think I'd better get back to servicing reels the way they were made, instead of trying to design them in my head. 🙂
@@youngmartinsreels5314Rick, I agree. If it wasn’t my reel I wouldn’t go beyond keeping the reel just as it was manufactured. Maybe I might replace worn drag washers but that’s it. I did not realize you did not own this reel. - Chris
Just an FYI you can replace that bushing with a bearing for the SS no.1 and GS1, it's something a lot of people do.
I suppose that bushing is the way it is for a reason though, so I chose to get the more desirable higher priced SS no.1 because it's already got that bearing and 2 parts are metal instead of plastic.
The SS no.1 and GS1 are the same reel, one gold and one Silver, both being predecessors to the 100c with identical body castings
Most of the parts are interchangeable, but these 2 earlier models have a bearing for the main gear instead of a bushing .
I see here that the crosswind block is shaped a bit differently, and it has a removable 2nd bushing, but otherwise the only other differences are the screw cap and anti reverse lever which went to plastic on the 1000c.
I do like my SS no.1 with all aspects considered, but I have to rank it as a B+ at most compared to the Shakey 2052 and Penn 716 which are A & A+ grade reels.
it's miles ahead of modern reels in my opinion so I really can't hate it and know I'll enjoy catching bluegill with it for sure.
Tyler, I wouldn’t ever replace a bronze bushing with a bearing. I’ve found plenty of bad bearings but I’ve seldom seen a worn out bronze bushing. The bearing might be smoother but for durability it’s really hard to beat the bronze bushings. As for plastic handles on the AR override, those handles are plastic but they are tough as nails. The only ones I’ve ever seen break were on South Bend reels and they were a soft plastic.
I really like the 2052 but I’m not crazy about the plastic spool. I haven’t seen one fail but I have seen plastic spools fail on other reels before and that makes me a little bit cautious. The worm gear though is very nice. I haven’t worked on a Penn 716 before so I’ll reserve judgement on that reel.
Tyler, I have a Penn 722Z and a Penn 720 Greenie that I think are pretty decent ultralight reels. You are right about the 714Z and 718Z ultralights. They are just a little pricey for a vintage saltwater spinning reel collector and surf fisherman like me. I also have a French Bretton 400 and 805 that are both excellent vintage light-weight reels too. I don’t rate reels like you do. It’s very simple for me. I get vintage reels from brands I’ve liked in the past and evaluate them as I see them and use them. I try not to so much evaluate them across different brands or models but rather on their own merits or deficiencies. Everything I say about one of my reels is based on my personal experience and evaluation - in other words my personal opinion. This just works for me. At nearly 70 yrs. old I guess I’m pretty set in my ways now. LOL! - Chris. PS. I agree with Rick about the plastic parts as there are many grades of plastic. I’ve had far mor metal parts crack on me anyway.
@@youngmartinsreels5314 the 716 is a lot like the 2052 with a very very similar mechanism, but a number of the things are upgraded.
I have a hard time saying it's indisputably better, but the bail is more solid and the spool is of course aluminum.
Nice clean Diawa rick. 👍
Your using Super Lube, which is non-drying and dielectric, so there's no reason to not use it on the outside race of the bearing. 😊😊😊😊😊
So do you believe that the Super Lube will not degrade over a period of 40 or 50 years. Many of the reels i service have not been serviced for that long and it could be that long again before someone goes into them again. Besides, I and my subscribers use many different brands of reel grease. I recommend not doing it with any grease. Each person can make there own choices.
@@youngmartinsreels5314 don't know what the synthetic base is of Super Lube, but PTFE is Teflon has a life of about 30/35 years before it degrades, hopefully the reel would have been serviced before then 😉
Ii did not know this about Super Lube but I have used it for years. I suggested Rick try Suprr Lube almost a year ago. I learned when a friend of mine (retired now) who was my mentor with French-made Mitchell reels. He never used any reel grease but Super Lube. I still use Penn grease on certain reels but never on Mitchells or other French-made vintage reels like Bretton,Luxor, Hellion et Punch, and Peerless BAM. Glad to know there is another fan of Super Lube out there. I know my reels will never go without servicing for 30 years or more unless I kick the bucket sooner than I hope. If that happens I can assure that it won’t matter to me anymore! I will use Penn grease on excessively worn spinning reels or overly large and heavy saltwater spinning reels. I collect mostly saltwater spinning reels and have nearly 350 reels in my collection. - Chris