I’ve been printing for several years and I’ve watched countless videos. This is one of the best compiled videos for a beginner that I’ve ever seen. This will truly be one of my suggested videos that I point people towards that are new to printing. Great job!❤
Brilliant! What a great crossover. I grew up on a farm and have since moved to a much more urban area. I was so excited to get a 3d printer to make urban gardening parts and am super grateful to have found your channel at such a perfect moment!
As an Ender 3 user myself: Very good guide! No new user needs to be afraid of 3D printers anymore. One upgrade I'd include for everyone would be the TMC2208 stepper drivers or a different mainboard. Creality fixed this issue in newer printer versions though. This takes the printer from being incredibly annoying to basically completely silent. So worth it. Depending on your area, it could also be worth it to make a filament box with an included filament dispenser via one of the pneumatic push connectors. You can find the building plans everywhere on google. Wouldn't recommend it to people in a very hot / humid climate though. It could be worth trying, I just don't want to give any advice for a region that could be problematic and I'm not living in.
Ender 3 s1 pro, it is basically these printers with all of the upgrades required out of the box. My third 3d printer and I couldnt recommend it more to someone starting out. This is all great info for someone starting out 3d printing. Do you find the bigger nozzle benefits are offset by reduced print speed? The stringing is a factor of PETG in my opinion, it is my preferred filament. Most of these issues can be avoided with a direct drive extruder
great vid. personally, my greatest leap in 3d printing was when i moved from my Ender machines to the Neptune 3 pro machines. I have a 3 max too, they are really great machines. I haven't had a failed print in a very long time. They just work everytime, i highly recommend
The best improvement for my creality printer was to print a motor holder for the printhead, so you can transform your 3D printer from a bowden to a direct drive printer. You have to adapt your retraction setting in your slicer software too. Result: no stringing any more :)
Thanks!, excellent info for someone who's thinking of getting a 3D printer. Amazing work. Definitely don't feel like you're obliged but a hyperlinked shopping list for everything you suggest in this video would be amazing too.
Shopping list isn't all that needed. Many parts are very universal, some upgrades/mods are even printable. Parts like the filament tubing is very universal and can be ordered everywhere. The connectors for example are used everywhere, where there are pneumatics involved. Even PC watercooling has those. The video is obviously very Ender 3 oriented. Not every printer will need the same upgrades.
Since getting the Max Neo from watching your video, I now have Frankenstein. 🤣 It has the direct drive and now uses Klipper instead of Marlin. Hydroponicing, and you got me into 3d. Thanks, mate 😂
I have been using a PRUSA mk 3 S now for 2 1/2 years or more and have had none of the issues described here. Overall, it has been excelled and very reliable. issues
Good video Hooch. I've recently been designing and 3d printing custom parts for my mushroom grow tub. Have you considered doing a 3d printing colab video with Michael from Teaching Tech?
I still don't see the attraction in sticking with the older Ender models on the proviso of "but you really will need to do all these upgrades if you want it to be any good", when for considerably less than the cost of the old model + upgrades you can get an Ender 3 S1, which has all those upgrades (and more) built in (or simply not applicable when you're talking about anything related to the bowden tube etc). No need for tinkering and hardware learning curves. I suppose the exception is if you're a person who has a love of upgrading and spare time on their hands with which to upgrade. Also I don't see the Ender 3 Pro on Creality's site(s) any more - maybe they finally heard what a lot of people have said - get rid of some of the models. They still have the Ender 3, and the Ender 3 V2 Neo, plus the S1 models. Perhaps they are trying for the S1 range to become the standard.
Nice 1 Mr Hoocho. Why Is PETG the best filament ? Is it just down to best finish or is it more subtle to do with chemical compatibility, UV tolerance for outdoor use etc.
So I assume you have upgraded quite few ender 3 pro's with the Creality all metal extruder so is there a set number for adjusting the e-steps after going from the stock extruder to the Creality branded metal one (the silver not red one)? I have an ender 3 pro v 4.2.2 MB (STM32F103 chip). I got a BL touch knockoff(3D touch) too so I will probably try the marlin bug fix 2.0 FW when I upgrade the FW and install it, I am going to keep the stock nozzle for now though and not try any PETG prints yet. until I get a feel for the printer obviously. I plan on doing all of those upgrades and already have the parts I am just nervous about calculating the e-steps if I replace the extruder, so I am just wonder if you changed the e-step value to the same thing on every ender 3 pro you did the extruder upgrade on or does it vary by machine and did you still have to calculate it manually? can I just try a set value since I have all the same exact hardware or do the manufacturing tolerances and standards not allow it?
things ive learnt with dealing with enders > buy something better ....a poor man pays twice! buy a bambu labs p1p or carbon x1, the x1 has a actively heated chamber so you can print ASA which is UV resistant but doesnt like to stick to a bed without a heated chamber ASA is super useful for hydroponic prints sitting outside in the sun, have been using it in production for a while now, no degredation
Not a justifiable cost for most people, you could pay 3 times for an ender 3 before you get to the cost of a bambu labs printer, sure they are better but not 3 times the price better, they have seriously come so far, the ender 3 s1 pro that I am using has been going strong for almost a year, most of the issues described here are because of the extruder.
I like how hooch spends 35 minutes talking about how great the ender 3 is... after a LOT of modding. and then a few months later he dumps them for a bambulab printer haha. i have an ender 5 s1 and only because the p1p came out the next month :'( never going back to creality.
I have a Voron V2 and several other printers for production. Speaking from experience- Hooch, I love you bro- said with love- throw out that old generation junk and get yourself a Bambulab. Way way faster with higher quality prints to boot. Way way less F around. Ain’t nobody got time 4 dat! Bring yourself to the future bro. Prusa screwed themselves with complacency. MK4 is a joke competitively. My original and first printer- Ender- became a “Voron Switchwire”, is way way better than original Ender and retains almost no parts beyond frame, but this thing collects dust as it shines in its upgrade money flush glory.
I’ve been printing for several years and I’ve watched countless videos. This is one of the best compiled videos for a beginner that I’ve ever seen. This will truly be one of my suggested videos that I point people towards that are new to printing. Great job!❤
Brilliant! What a great crossover. I grew up on a farm and have since moved to a much more urban area. I was so excited to get a 3d printer to make urban gardening parts and am super grateful to have found your channel at such a perfect moment!
This helped me print petg so much better, before it was stringy and not sticking to the bed now it appears to work alot better.
BIG DOG! Giving us that nerd life! You're really making me want to go get a printer!
😂 best and worst decision of your life
@@Hoocho lololol, like most all my decisions anyways, what's new 🫣🤨🤣
As an Ender 3 user myself: Very good guide! No new user needs to be afraid of 3D printers anymore.
One upgrade I'd include for everyone would be the TMC2208 stepper drivers or a different mainboard. Creality fixed this issue in newer printer versions though. This takes the printer from being incredibly annoying to basically completely silent. So worth it.
Depending on your area, it could also be worth it to make a filament box with an included filament dispenser via one of the pneumatic push connectors. You can find the building plans everywhere on google. Wouldn't recommend it to people in a very hot / humid climate though. It could be worth trying, I just don't want to give any advice for a region that could be problematic and I'm not living in.
I love your channel and I just ordered my 3D printer - my upcoming Spring Garden will be going to the next level of hydroponics
Ender 3 s1 pro, it is basically these printers with all of the upgrades required out of the box. My third 3d printer and I couldnt recommend it more to someone starting out. This is all great info for someone starting out 3d printing. Do you find the bigger nozzle benefits are offset by reduced print speed? The stringing is a factor of PETG in my opinion, it is my preferred filament.
Most of these issues can be avoided with a direct drive extruder
great vid. personally, my greatest leap in 3d printing was when i moved from my Ender machines to the Neptune 3 pro machines. I have a 3 max too, they are really great machines. I haven't had a failed print in a very long time. They just work everytime, i highly recommend
Also worth mentioning the elegoo neptune 2s/3, unbelievable features for the cost of them without the need for most of the upgrades
The best improvement for my creality printer was to print a motor holder for the printhead, so you can transform your 3D printer from a bowden to a direct drive printer. You have to adapt your retraction setting in your slicer software too. Result: no stringing any more :)
Me: *no intention of getting a 3D printer*
Hoochos integrity and motivation to empower all: hold my beer
🤣 Whoops
This was a video confirming what I thought all along. And that was to NEVER buy a stupid 3d printer. Fuck, what a waste of time.
@@13panda13 have you bought it yet? 😀
@@13panda13 You really have nothing else going on huh
I hadn't realised PETG could print at that low a temp. That's awesome!
Also your "Cheap Printer Filament AUS-" link is dead.
wow, you have taken your Love for hydroponics to the top...
Thanks!, excellent info for someone who's thinking of getting a 3D printer. Amazing work.
Definitely don't feel like you're obliged but a hyperlinked shopping list for everything you suggest in this video would be amazing too.
...but would probably be less useful for non-Aussies.
Shopping list isn't all that needed. Many parts are very universal, some upgrades/mods are even printable. Parts like the filament tubing is very universal and can be ordered everywhere. The connectors for example are used everywhere, where there are pneumatics involved. Even PC watercooling has those.
The video is obviously very Ender 3 oriented. Not every printer will need the same upgrades.
Since getting the Max Neo from watching your video, I now have Frankenstein. 🤣 It has the direct drive and now uses Klipper instead of Marlin. Hydroponicing, and you got me into 3d. Thanks, mate 😂
Good stuff, thanks.
I've ALWAYS had an interest in printing
Thanks I learned alot
Can you let us know the programs you use? I thought you would post them. Keep up the videos Luv them!
I have been using a PRUSA mk 3 S now for 2 1/2 years or more and have had none of the issues described here. Overall, it has been excelled and very reliable. issues
excellent
Good video Hooch. I've recently been designing and 3d printing custom parts for my mushroom grow tub. Have you considered doing a 3d printing colab video with Michael from Teaching Tech?
I still don't see the attraction in sticking with the older Ender models on the proviso of "but you really will need to do all these upgrades if you want it to be any good", when for considerably less than the cost of the old model + upgrades you can get an Ender 3 S1, which has all those upgrades (and more) built in (or simply not applicable when you're talking about anything related to the bowden tube etc). No need for tinkering and hardware learning curves. I suppose the exception is if you're a person who has a love of upgrading and spare time on their hands with which to upgrade. Also I don't see the Ender 3 Pro on Creality's site(s) any more - maybe they finally heard what a lot of people have said - get rid of some of the models. They still have the Ender 3, and the Ender 3 V2 Neo, plus the S1 models. Perhaps they are trying for the S1 range to become the standard.
Great video! I'm about to take my first steps into the 3D printing world, can I ask what software you use @Hoocho? Thanks
I gotta get one of these 😎👍👍🌱🌱
Thank you so much Mitch!
Nice 1 Mr Hoocho. Why Is PETG the best filament ? Is it just down to best finish or is it more subtle to do with chemical compatibility, UV tolerance for outdoor use etc.
They fixed all these problems in the ender 3 v2 neo lineup (metal feeder, cr touch, orange springs)
When you fire up the video and find out you have the exact same printers in your farm for the same reasons.
Long live the ender 3 pros
28:15 I usually use a piece of bowden tube to clean that part
Does the new version of this printer take care of many of these upgrades?
So I assume you have upgraded quite few ender 3 pro's with the Creality all metal extruder
so is there a set number for adjusting the e-steps after going from the stock extruder to the Creality branded metal one (the silver not red one)? I have an ender 3 pro v 4.2.2 MB (STM32F103 chip).
I got a BL touch knockoff(3D touch) too so I will probably try the marlin bug fix 2.0 FW
when I upgrade the FW and install it,
I am going to keep the stock nozzle for now though and not try any PETG prints yet. until I get a feel for the printer obviously.
I plan on doing all of those upgrades and already have the parts I am just nervous about calculating the e-steps if I replace the extruder, so I am just wonder if you changed the e-step value to the same thing on every ender 3 pro you did the extruder upgrade on or does it vary by machine and did you still have to calculate it manually?
can I just try a set value since I have all the same exact hardware or do the manufacturing tolerances and standards not allow it?
Hi, where can I get hold of your peg design and end caps, and can I or how can I pay for them?
Is the Ender 3 Neo the current version of the Pro shown here?
Can you put the Ender in an enclosure? Could help with heat loss and let you have higher infill speeds in cooler months?
I have a qidi xmax which comes in an enclosure as part of the build
Most of the links in the description are broken (that I tried)
What software are you using for printer?
Where can I find these settings please. ?
things ive learnt with dealing with enders > buy something better ....a poor man pays twice!
buy a bambu labs p1p or carbon x1, the x1 has a actively heated chamber so you can print ASA which is UV resistant but doesnt like to stick to a bed without a heated chamber
ASA is super useful for hydroponic prints sitting outside in the sun, have been using it in production for a while now, no degredation
Not a justifiable cost for most people, you could pay 3 times for an ender 3 before you get to the cost of a bambu labs printer, sure they are better but not 3 times the price better, they have seriously come so far, the ender 3 s1 pro that I am using has been going strong for almost a year, most of the issues described here are because of the extruder.
I like how hooch spends 35 minutes talking about how great the ender 3 is... after a LOT of modding. and then a few months later he dumps them for a bambulab printer haha. i have an ender 5 s1 and only because the p1p came out the next month :'( never going back to creality.
Mate get a Bambu lab P1P, it will do the job of 4 of those Enders and half this video wouldn’t be needed 😅
or pay the premium and just go for the x1 carbon and get the ams alongside it
A pity the Bambu Lab parts are proprietary
@@corwinwhitehorn7759 and cost a pittance of the other Gucci crap out there
I have a Voron V2 and several other printers for production. Speaking from experience- Hooch, I love you bro- said with love- throw out that old generation junk and get yourself a Bambulab. Way way faster with higher quality prints to boot. Way way less F around. Ain’t nobody got time 4 dat! Bring yourself to the future bro. Prusa screwed themselves with complacency. MK4 is a joke competitively. My original and first printer- Ender- became a “Voron Switchwire”, is way way better than original Ender and retains almost no parts beyond frame, but this thing collects dust as it shines in its upgrade money flush glory.
Just get that bambu
this is practically an how to improve an Ender 3 printer video. I gave this one a thumbs down for the misleading title.