I keep running out of words to express my appreciation that Barry agreed to take on this build. People talk about Stars and Planets aligning and believe me they have in this case. Now that they've aligned it seems the Sun and Moon are shining down on Slither. Everything is going extremely well and there isn't any reason to suspect it won't continue. I've had a few issues finding parts but so far all the "deadlines" have been met and we have not encountered a work stoppage due ro parts availability. People sometimes assume that its easy. Just order stuff and it gets here. Believe me it's more like juggling pissed off wet cats. Thanks Barry for another excellent video!
at first I thought it would've been better to just purchase an entire body shell. However, after watching all of the improvements Barry is doing with his project, even though the cost in the end will be more, the end result will be much better.
Thanks Rick, I know it will be worth all the effort, time and money. This chassis/ body will be stronger than the cars that were Trans Am raced buy the factory sponsored teams. Better brakes, better suspension, more horsepower & much easier to drive. I believe everyone will be surprised when the frame connectors go in. Nearly every manufacturer of connectors works under the guidance of what can someone do in their front yard with a floorjack. I looked at as many connectors as I could find and this one is the only one that fit my requirements. I wanted something that approximated what the factory could have done. I wanted something that was in the spirit of the unibody design which meant it made contact all along the floor and of course it made really good contact with the front and rear frame rails. The last requirement was I wanted minimal loss of ground clearance. This product checks all the boxes.
In the early days of reproduction parts, mid 80's, I replaced the front frame rails and torque boxes on both sides of the car. I remember having to cut the boxes welds as they had a twist. Once the welds were cut the pieces easily fitted back together properly and with that adjustment it went back together properly. You do what you have to do to get the job done.
Just a heads up for folks who might not have to replace their torque box(s) I have a very original early 1967 Mustang hard top 200 I6 auto c-4, manual 4 wheel drums, and there was 5 lbs of loose dirt in the driver side torque box. Yes I weighed the dirt. I was very surprised at how much come out of there !! Worth checking on some old Mustangs. I will be adding a passenger side torque box soon as our car came without from the factory that year. So glad there are video's like this. : )
Another great video Barry 👍 Now that winter has hit the great north out side work is moving snow. I will get back to good thing like work in my shop and watching your work. Oh also the coffee night with all your followers 👍👍👍
Well done Barry as always, take care of your back. Getting older isn’t for sissies, my body reminds me that I’m not as young as I thought all the time!
I did the same exact bracing to push that flange on the outer TB to the firewall! In fact, I did most everything the same way. I did my joggle a bit different. I went with the Fitzee garage approach. I used a flat rounded punch to knock it over. Nice work.
Oh yeah that's the way Ford should have done it but they had no way of knowing that 54 years later the car would be scrutinized and reimagined by old guys who simply said, We can do it better. Just like in "Ford vs Ferrari" I wish Mr. Ford could take a ride in this when we are through with it. I believe he'd approve. Great work Barry!
Thanks again for sharing your skills. I am doing my torque box right now similar to your replacement on the Jade series. The rustoleum seems like a great way to go.
Great work, as always! I like your joggle solution. I made up for the extra thickness by putting a joggle in the firewall, but I might like your solution better. Thanks for the video!
that last triangular piece you put on after completing the torque box (passenger side) looks like it will catch all the road grime and sand. Think I'll design something with the same function less trapping of road junk.
I've really enjoyed the "Slither" series, a lot more than I thought 🤔.. Love the "joggle" work around on the inside edge of the torque box.. I just did both boxes on my 65 Fastback, my floor was redone before I got the car, and I didn't want cut for the overlapping flange either. My Spectra brand boxes from NPD, had a wider flange, and I was able to put a nice 90° bend downwards, and rosset weld to the inner side of the frame rails. Came out nice, though not as nice as yours brother.. Keep at it..
Am getting anxious to see what motor and transmission are going in this. It is being well built. I was thinking adding front torque boxes on my 65 Mustang. More strength is better..
I can’t believe you modified a boat trailer like this. That is pure genius!! Maybe I missed something, but the firewall transition pan has to go in first, on top of the frame flange? And then the top of the torque box goes beneath the frame flange and up against the firewall transition? I am in the middle of this now on the drivers side and having a hell of a time.
G’day Joe A lot of attention to detail, I love your videos. I have a question and it’s regarding the interface of sheet metal to sheet metal where the pieces meet. I noticed you spray epoxy elsewhere but there is no rust inhibitors between the faces being welded.
Not really necessary. The weld thru primer is on the panels, and after welding everything will be sprayed over. Remember these cars had nothing between the panels from the factory and they survived being daily drivers. None of us do that now.
Another great video Barry thanks. however I have one question: between 21:25 and 21:28, what are thé Holmes (looking like wellding Holes) that can be Seen at the 2nd plan on the left? Thanks for your answer.👍.
Great job Sir! How do you keep your welds from dripping down when you weld upside down? When I welded in my frame connectors the welds would fall due to gravity.
Only in my head. I sort of have a running list in my head. After working the junkyard as a kid, and keeping track of hundreds of cars, this isn’t so bad.
I learned a new word. jog·gle2 /ˈjäɡ(ə)l/ noun noun: joggle; plural noun: joggles a joint between two pieces of stone, concrete, or timber consisting of a projection in one of the pieces fitting into a notch in the other or a small piece let in between the two. "a joggle joint made of iron"
I keep running out of words to express my appreciation that Barry agreed to take on this build. People talk about Stars and Planets aligning and believe me they have in this case. Now that they've aligned it seems the Sun and Moon are shining down on Slither. Everything is going extremely well and there isn't any reason to suspect it won't continue. I've had a few issues finding parts but so far all the "deadlines" have been met and we have not encountered a work stoppage due ro parts availability. People sometimes assume that its easy. Just order stuff and it gets here. Believe me it's more like juggling pissed off wet cats.
Thanks Barry for another excellent video!
at first I thought it would've been better to just purchase an entire body shell. However, after watching all of the improvements Barry is doing with his project, even though the cost in the end will be more, the end result will be much better.
Thanks Rick,
I know it will be worth all the effort, time and money. This chassis/ body will be stronger than the cars that were Trans Am raced buy the factory sponsored teams. Better brakes, better suspension, more horsepower & much easier to drive. I believe everyone will be surprised when the frame connectors go in. Nearly every manufacturer of connectors works under the guidance of what can someone do in their front yard with a floorjack. I looked at as many connectors as I could find and this one is the only one that fit my requirements. I wanted something that approximated what the factory could have done. I wanted something that was in the spirit of the unibody design which meant it made contact all along the floor and of course it made really good contact with the front and rear frame rails. The last requirement was I wanted minimal loss of ground clearance. This product checks all the boxes.
In the early days of reproduction parts, mid 80's, I replaced the front frame rails and torque boxes on both sides of the car. I remember having to cut the boxes welds as they had a twist. Once the welds were cut the pieces easily fitted back together properly and with that adjustment it went back together properly. You do what you have to do to get the job done.
Excellent details, I like it. I hope you can do the same on installing the deck filler panel, rear valance, and drip rails. Thanks
Just a heads up for folks who might not have to replace their torque box(s) I have a very original early 1967 Mustang hard top 200 I6 auto c-4, manual 4 wheel drums, and there was 5 lbs of loose dirt in the driver side torque box. Yes I weighed the dirt. I was very surprised at how much come out of there !! Worth checking on some old Mustangs. I will be adding a passenger side torque box soon as our car came without from the factory that year. So glad there are video's like this. : )
wow really coming along. , it wasn't long ago that it was just a pile of rust. ,loving the work
Great job on the torque box and the fit sorry about your back hope you get better looking forward to seeing you're next video thumbs up 👍👍👍👍👍
Thank you I've been looking for guidance on this type of build for a while now.
As always, great video - descriptive and informative.
Awesome tutorial as usual
Excellent video!
Another great video Barry 👍 Now that winter has hit the great north out side work is moving snow. I will get back to good thing like work in my shop and watching your work. Oh also the coffee night with all your followers 👍👍👍
Looking good! I've been enjoying this series.
great video
Well done Barry as always, take care of your back. Getting older isn’t for sissies, my body reminds me that I’m not as young as I thought all the time!
Rest up. We always like anything you post
That’s the same I have. I’m using 0.025 so I have to uses this parameters. Thank you.
Awesome work once again Barry
I did the same exact bracing to push that flange on the outer TB to the firewall! In fact, I did most everything the same way. I did my joggle a bit different. I went with the Fitzee garage approach. I used a flat rounded punch to knock it over. Nice work.
Well done tutorial. Doing mine next weekend.
I know that the torque box you put in is better than the factory! Good vid!
Oh yeah that's the way Ford should have done it but they had no way of knowing that 54 years later the car would be scrutinized and reimagined by old guys who simply said, We can do it better. Just like in "Ford vs Ferrari" I wish Mr. Ford could take a ride in this when we are through with it. I believe he'd approve. Great work Barry!
Thanks again for sharing your skills. I am doing my torque box right now similar to your replacement on the Jade series. The rustoleum seems like a great way to go.
Great work, as always! I like your joggle solution. I made up for the extra thickness by putting a joggle in the firewall, but I might like your solution better. Thanks for the video!
that last triangular piece you put on after completing the torque box (passenger side) looks like it will catch all the road grime and sand. Think I'll design something with the same function less trapping of road junk.
Love the joggle. I put mine in the same way but it didn't turn out as nice as yours considering I used a BFH to make it fit lol.
I've really enjoyed the "Slither" series, a lot more than I thought 🤔.. Love the "joggle" work around on the inside edge of the torque box.. I just did both boxes on my 65 Fastback, my floor was redone before I got the car, and I didn't want cut for the overlapping flange either. My Spectra brand boxes from NPD, had a wider flange, and I was able to put a nice 90° bend downwards, and rosset weld to the inner side of the frame rails. Came out nice, though not as nice as yours brother.. Keep at it..
Great job and maybe enough motivation for me to weld mine in.
Excellent job .
Awesome job
Am getting anxious to see what motor and transmission are going in this. It is being well built. I was thinking adding front torque boxes on my 65 Mustang. More strength is better..
Your shop looks like my shop except you have more room. Some day I'll have a 40x60 to play in. 😀
I can’t believe you modified a boat trailer like this. That is pure genius!!
Maybe I missed something, but the firewall transition pan has to go in first, on top of the frame flange? And then the top of the torque box goes beneath the frame flange and up against the firewall transition? I am in the middle of this now on the drivers side and having a hell of a time.
G’day Joe
A lot of attention to detail, I love your videos. I have a question and it’s regarding the interface of sheet metal to sheet metal where the pieces meet. I noticed you spray epoxy elsewhere but there is no rust inhibitors between the faces being welded.
Not really necessary. The weld thru primer is on the panels, and after welding everything will be sprayed over. Remember these cars had nothing between the panels from the factory and they survived being daily drivers. None of us do that now.
Another great video Barry thanks. however I have one question: between 21:25 and 21:28, what are thé Holmes (looking like wellding Holes) that can be Seen at the 2nd plan on the left? Thanks for your answer.👍.
I believe those were likely jig holes for the manufacturing of the piece. They can serve as vent holes now.
Joggle? I think the word is "flange"... but I could be mistaken.
Oh... no... not flange.. "joggle" is as good a word as any for that dog-leg like bendy thing.
Dog Leg Like Bendy Thing! 😅
Perfect from here on out I'll call it a "DLLBT" 😮
Very nice, what are your parameters for spot welding the sheath metal ?
On the machine? I’m using .030” wire and the synchronous function on the arccaptain MiG 200.
Great job Sir! How do you keep your welds from dripping down when you weld upside down? When I welded in my frame connectors the welds would fall due to gravity.
Experience. That’s all I can say.
@8:25 aka... step 😁
Great series, thankfully my '69 M-code is much more like your car than Slither.
Hey Barry, just a curiosity, do you keep a list of todos so as not to forget something that's on hold until you get to a certain spot on a project?
Only in my head. I sort of have a running list in my head. After working the junkyard as a kid, and keeping track of hundreds of cars, this isn’t so bad.
Very good vid Barry. Take care of the back, c-ya mon. nite.😊
Loving your bad ass jams. Btw, who are the artists and names of the jams?
Good question. Some came with he editing software. Others I downloaded from audio hero. And some come from UA-cam editing downloads.
I will never look at a boat trailer the same.
Well you could slap that and say "that ain't going anywhere".
I wonder if the folks a dinacorn are watching this series to learn better ways to put their body shells together.
I learned a new word.
jog·gle2
/ˈjäɡ(ə)l/
noun
noun: joggle; plural noun: joggles
a joint between two pieces of stone, concrete, or timber consisting of a projection in one of the pieces fitting into a notch in the other or a small piece let in between the two.
"a joggle joint made of iron"