One every other video I watched and the Price Pfister paper instruction, it says the two little notches, vampire teeth, go at the bottom not at the top. I purchased the new KARCI 8P8-WS2-KA, the one good thing I learned from your video, is that you said it took a week of back and forth to get everything clear, I feel better now. And the depth of your rough brass pipe where the valve goes into is significant, I had to get a different valve because the one supplied in the new fixture was too short and had rounds holes at the back. Thank you for the video, it did make me feel better and sometimes that's worth a lot. I'm 71 and a female, trying to do it myself. To make matters worse there was no video available on the PF site. But their help line worked, I had to order a different valve. Thank you Darren!
Congratulations on getting this project tackled on your own. Yeah I'm not sure if all of my suggestions will be applicable in all situations. But I'm glad the video helped.
@@DarrenOverby I'm happy to say that we have accomplished our plumbing fix, and it's beautiful. I traded out an old brushed brass for a beautiful brushed nickel Price Pfister, from shower head to pop up drain. The only I didn't try to accomplish was changing out the old shower pipe coming from the wall. I had heard somewhere that if you break the seal behind the wall, big trouble is in your future. I had already painted a brushed silver just to eventually match the new fixtures. And when we tried to unscrew it we both decided to just let it be, we put the new shower head on and everything looks stellar. Thank you so much for your support, I have a young roommate who is studying to be a pilot. Two novices but we made it, he was a great help, and had the confidence of youth, he was a Godsend, but so are you. Thanks again, Jude from Coolidge AZ
Excellent. I just paid a ridiculous amount of money to a plumber to do this job. Had I seen this first I probably would have done it myself. The kinds of real world tips/requirements that you point out but manufacturers generally fail to are EXACTLY why I opted not to do this myself, but having seen this now, I probably will next time. Thanks so much.
Thanks for the video, it's something that comes with experience, and it sucks that they don't mention these things when training people to repair a part. Another issue that's fairly common, is the gasket being worn and come off. Sometimes when you pull out the cartridge, a gasket might still be inside the enclosure, so it's important to make sure there's no gasket stuck inside, otherwise you'll have two gaskets stacked, and a big leak. Also, another tip is having a towel or something to catch the water that spills out when you remove the cartridge.
Just did three of these yesterday. Another thing that people that don't do this stuff all the time (me!) may not realize is that sometimes the replacement cartridges ship with the switch set to ON. So when you turn the water on to check for leaks...you can guess what happens. Learned the hard way yesterday to grab the pliers and make sure the cartridge is set to OFF/CLOSED before doing the water test. I actually hadn't even replaced the stem on the cartridge yet when I did the first test and it was in an overhead shower...so I got soaked. So don't be stupid like me, put the stem on the new cartridge and grab those pliers and twist it all the way to OFF before testing! The Pfister replacement manual doesn't mention the stem or to turn it off before testing, etc.
My previous install had the mix valve reversed so hot came on first and cold later. This video helped me rotate the cartridge 180 degrees and now works perfectly. I had to adjust the black limiter on the front to allow a greater flow of hot water. Not covered in video but easy to do as there are printed words and an indicator arrow on the black tab at the front of the cartridge. Simply remove rotate and reinsert to adjust mixture.
Thank you so much! I found your video here first and with your help I was able to Successfully replace my shower handle valve cartridge with the simple tools you've shown here. I was surprised to find I actually have my own 3/32" Allen tool in my tool bag!LOL I did this all in less than 2 hours for $24.98 and 1 simple, pleasant, uneventful round trip to Home Depot! Always, Todd in Cocoa Beach, Florida
You should call Price Pfister; there is a lifetime warranty. Free is free... they will send you a new one and you return it to HD but it will take a week to get delivered.
I'm about to replace the cartridge because my shower tub faucet is dripping water. This video makes it look easier. Glad to have seen this before I attempt to do mine. The cartridge they gave me seems like the one you have.
I will be doing this on my home thanks to your help. I got so far as having trouble with the handle coming off that I nearly gave up and called a plumber to do it for me. However your video and the other comments on this video motivate me to give it a go. My only gripe with my home is that my water shut valve is down by the edge of the driveway near the street. I'll need a special key the city uses to turn off my water which is annoying. Thank you so much for your helpful video. Cheers
Found this video by chance, and thank you sir for making it. It had a lot of helpful tips for replacing the fixture. Especially since Pfister does not tell you these hints in their "how to" replacement videos. Thank you again for this helpful video.
Mine is in this configuration as well. I think the contractor may have switched the entry points for the hot and cold copper lines. If I put it in "correctly" it is backwards.
Thanks very much. Will do mine today when the sun comes up. I totally agree with you about Pfister should edg the model number on the unit. It’d save time for everyone. Thanks again. All great tips!
The last video I watched indicated that the “vampire teeth” go on the bottom. I also had to widen the opening because the original installer just mounted the shower wall snugged up the the core with zero room to remove the cartridge. The bad words were flying out on my mouth.
Yes, it is installed wrong (upside down,). The Pfister maintence video put the cartridge in the other way. ua-cam.com/video/AdvBu7JXSvk/v-deo.html. But thank you for the very helpful video overall.
I wouldn't call it laziness, but they just want to make sure they send you the correct replacement part. This is why we should all keep the paperwork in a ziplock bag under the sink, that's where mine is.
I’d stay away from wd40, that thing is so penetrating… and can linger for a long time. I used it once on a bathtub spout and kept getting the whiff of it in water for at least a year. I’d also suggest to place a towel underneath the cartridge before taking it out, that extra water might drain inside the wall
You should put some plastic or something to create a trough under the valve. This will keep water from pouring down into your wall when the valve is removed.
Question for anyone here: I put a brand new trim kit to replace an old Pfister handle and I can't seem to figure out how to get the handle flush to the plate. I woould have assumed that all kits would match up fine with the plate, but no. Would I just grind down the ring that holds the plate against the wall? I'm thinking that might be the best solution, but thought I'd ask here. Any suggestions?
You should also mention that the temp is adjustable by removing the black end cap and rotating to the desired temp.Don't set it to high or a scalding could happen...........
I am in the middle of this project, I have the handle and trim plate off, started with the 4 screws for the retainer ring, I am going to call Price Pfister to ensure what size those screws are and get new ones, its worth putting in brand new screws so its not even harder the next time.
If I remember right, the screws are made of a non-ferrous material so they will not rust. However, they will get corroded. If you are unable to get new screws from Price Pfister you can also consider soaking them in a product called CLR to clean the corrosion. After the soak a quick brush with an old toothbrush should clean them up for you.
@@DarrenOverby Interestingly... I got PP on the phone this morning and they are sending me the 4 screws AND a new retainer ring FREE! I would say, get the new screws and plate and swap them out when doing the cartridge. They really will take care of you.
@@DarrenOverby Oh yea, I would mention to make sure to put a towel over the drain to not lose any of them... and be very cautious when pulling out the plate screws so they don't fall behind the wall.
I installed 2 of these, one in each bathroom shower. The first one went in with no issues, water leak tested and water temperature tested, no leaks and water got hot. The second one went in easy also but, doing the water temperature test it did not get too hot, kind of LUKE HOT. Thought I may have a problem with new cartridge, or pipes in wall, because the sink is 3 feet away and it gets hot. Replaced the cartridge again, same issue. Called a plumber to check, he said there was an adjustment on the cartridge, he adjusted it and all is well. He just took the handle off and did this adjustment. He didn’t show me.
Unfortunately, sometimes these handles get corroded and can be most difficult to remove. Maybe try to get WD40 behind the handle with a bendable straw. Be patient and keep wiggling, pulling, and tapping. Another product that might dissolve the corrosion is called CLR. You might want to wait a day for the WD40 or CLR to dissolve the corrosion so maybe you can remove the handle.
Thank for your video; I think you have the control module upside down. The bottom part is the part that has the 2 bumps. How I searched for your video is about the handle getting water deposits that I couldn't get my handle back into the plastic stem. I guess I will have to soak that handle; but the problem is that my tenants can't be waiting for me to bring the handle back for a shower. So I will need to use a Dremel with a wire brush... to see if it works.
@ 2:13, what is that small metal piece that comes out of the cartridge that you almost dropped down the drain. That's the missing piece I need in my repair. Do you have a part number or measurement? While your handle is slightly different in appearance, its the same as mine when it comes to connecting it together, and I busted my old one. THANK YOU!
I would call it the valve stem but I'm not sure if that's actually the correct term. Feel free to call Price Pfister and refer them to that part of my video. They were helpful when I called. 1-800-PFAUCET (1-800-732-8238)
Unfortunately, it's a common problem especially if you have a lot of mineral deposits in your water. I sometimes have success on removal with sprays like WD-40, water, wiggling and time (to let the WD-40 settle in). Perhaps someone else here will have other suggestions.
If you get a replacement cartridge for this particular faucet you would also need a new knob because the old knob doesn't work on the replacement cartridges however if you purchase an aftermarket cartridge your old knob will work
They had me email them photos so they could identify the model. Only the cartridge had a model number on it in a paper collar that was around it . My old one was manufactured in 2010.
It's hard to envision how the Allen set screw is hidden. Are you referring to the set screw in the handle? Was your valve installed in a recessed area? Please try to explain more and reference a specific timestamp in my video so we can confirm what "Allen key" you are talking about.
IDK if you will see this, but my Pfister handle turns hard , and it just feels like it need some plumbers grease. Is there a way to lubricate the mechanism?
I am in process of getting same cartridge for a Saxton shower handle. Same cartridge. Thanks. Did you do anything to clean mixer body before mounting new cartridge? Did you apply grease to new O rings before mounting?
I had to first pop the finial-esque cap off the handle first to unscrew it from the base before the assembly would slide out if anyone else has this type. /run-on
Thanks for your video. There are some great tips which I'm sure will be useful. Unfortunately, I haven't been able to get past removing the handle on mine. I've used a lot of WD40 along with wiggling, pulling, and pounding, so far to no avail. My handle is actually attached by a screw through the front of the handle (no set screw), after popping off the little cap on the front, but the principle is still the same. It seems a need a gear-puller to get the handle off! As a final resort, I may have to use a saw-zall between the handle and the back plate and just cut the whole thing off, hoping that replacement parts are available from Price-Pfister.
Yes, that's the most difficult part. I wish all valve manufacturers would develop a solution that prevents this. In the past, I've had good luck with CLR (Calcium, Lime, Rust) dissolver. The challenge is getting the fluid into the right place. I wish you luck.
Just a plain screw driver, I have the same with the screw in front. I used a Phillips with no luck just use a reg flat head that fits perfectly into the screws slot & give a little push while you turn. It's plastic remember. FFR!
@@defiantlion231 Thanks for the info. Getting the screw out was no problem, but the handle would not come off, no matter what I did. I ended up ripping apart the big round cover so I could get behind the handle, then pryed off the handle with a claw hammer from behind it.
@@MikeGriffiths1234 I'm afraid this is going to be me. Mine has been on for about 15 years, and we have horrible hard calcium water. I dread even starting the project. Replacing everything, not just the cartridge. Any tips now that you got your off?
@@nancycusumano2776 My only advice is make sure you have the right replacement parts before you start. I couldn't find brushed nickel parts so I ended up with shiny nickel which doesn't match the rest of the fixtures in the house. Once you have the parts, you are good to use a hacksaw or whatever else you need. I did not replace the valve, only the cartridge and the trim pieces that I had to rip off.
Great video. However according to a few video's I watched before yours, you have it upside down. According to them, on the valve they said those vampire teeth should be pointed down. Thats those two humps in between the screws that you have pointed up. Now they could have been wrong but two different videos said the same thing. But still, great video and I'm going to try replacing this myself instead of calling a plumber first.
One bit of trouble I had, when I took the cartridge out the rubber seals stayed stuck inside and I never noticed. Tap wouldn’t work till I took it apart and noticed the seals stuck on, got them off with a screwdriver then put the new cartridge back in.
I couldn’t get the Allen screw and stripped it. I just drilled it out and now I still can’t get the handle off. Very aggravating. Sledge hammer is my next option.
I hate when this happens. In the old days facets had a large visible screw. It wasn't as pretty but very functional and maintainable. I feel like these tiny screw prettify features are really planned obsolescence in disguise. Best of luck with your repair.
We have had a screw down the drain situation. Do you know the name of the part that you had to wrench a bit? It goes into the plastic part that then gets secured to the handle?
Sorry to hear about your difficulty. Unfortunately, I don't know the name of that part. However, Price-Pfister support is pretty good. You can call them at 1-800-PFAUCET (1-800-732-8238). On the other hand, you might be able to recover the part. Search UA-cam for this video: "How to Recover Jewelry from a Drain | Roto-Rooter" for a couple of methods. It's for a sink drain but it will generally apply to all drains.
Most times you have to open the valve and close it after the o ring is snug,,,sometimes being in the closed position will hold you off as the valve hits before the o ring can snug up,,,,it's that way on a cheap faucet I'm not sure about cartridge unit repairs.
Hi Daren, Do you happen to know the specific model for that Marielle one? I need exactly the same turn valve and spot in polished chrome. Since you already went through the trouble I thought I ask, save me some trouble.
Hi Basha, I couldn't find the model number in my files but I found my receipt from Home Depot and traced it back to this item: www.homedepot.com/p/Pfister-Marielle-1-Handle-1-Spray-Wall-Mount-Shower-Only-Trim-Kit-in-Brushed-Nickel-Valve-Not-Included-LG89-7MBK/304960604 On that page it shows a model number of LG89-7MBK. Hope this helps.
I didn't know my model number either so I sent Price-Pfister support this video ua-cam.com/video/ULNYjUfHo8U/v-deo.html . When the responded they said, "according to the image you have Marielle Model: R898MBK" I hope this helps.
I personally don't like to do this because, if there's later a leak in the valve, you will not know about it. The caulk will make it more likely that the water goes behind the wall and into the wall. Over the long term, that leak in the wall could cause lots of damage to the framing and tile substrate. I also don't like caulking around the base of toilets for the same reason. If there's a leak, I want to know about it as soon as possible so it can be addressed. That said, I've even seen some professional plumbers caulk around plumbing fixtures so maybe there's something I don't know. Perhaps others will chime in on this thread and let us know their opinions.
@@DarrenOverby thank you so much for your input I actually had an issue with mold on the backside of my shower wall (behind the trim plate) which is my bedroom closet and there was mold in the bottom of the closet on drywall, I was told because there wasn't any caulking around the plate to begin with. So I'm just trying to prevent any further issues. Thank you!
@@lisam7511 I should add it will depend on the nature of the leak and where it exactly is on the facet to determine if it water will appear under the trim plate. If the leak is at the back of the facet inside the wall you might not be able to see anything come out from the trim plate. In my mind, I want to increase the chances that I will see the water come out from under the trim plate so I don't caulk. Personally, I think valve manufacturers should have a cheap plastic shield behind and around the valve to divert any leaks forward where you are more likely to see a problem.
One every other video I watched and the Price Pfister paper instruction, it says the two little notches, vampire teeth, go at the bottom not at the top. I purchased the new KARCI 8P8-WS2-KA, the one good thing I learned from your video, is that you said it took a week of back and forth to get everything clear, I feel better now. And the depth of your rough brass pipe where the valve goes into is significant, I had to get a different valve because the one supplied in the new fixture was too short and had rounds holes at the back. Thank you for the video, it did make me feel better and sometimes that's worth a lot. I'm 71 and a female, trying to do it myself. To make matters worse there was no video available on the PF site. But their help line worked, I had to order a different valve. Thank you Darren!
Congratulations on getting this project tackled on your own. Yeah I'm not sure if all of my suggestions will be applicable in all situations. But I'm glad the video helped.
@@DarrenOverby I'm happy to say that we have accomplished our plumbing fix, and it's beautiful. I traded out an old brushed brass for a beautiful brushed nickel Price Pfister, from shower head to pop up drain. The only I didn't try to accomplish was changing out the old shower pipe coming from the wall. I had heard somewhere that if you break the seal behind the wall, big trouble is in your future. I had already painted a brushed silver just to eventually match the new fixtures. And when we tried to unscrew it we both decided to just let it be, we put the new shower head on and everything looks stellar. Thank you so much for your support, I have a young roommate who is studying to be a pilot. Two novices but we made it, he was a great help, and had the confidence of youth, he was a Godsend, but so are you. Thanks again, Jude from Coolidge AZ
Excellent. I just paid a ridiculous amount of money to a plumber to do this job. Had I seen this first I probably would have done it myself. The kinds of real world tips/requirements that you point out but manufacturers generally fail to are EXACTLY why I opted not to do this myself, but having seen this now, I probably will next time. Thanks so much.
Thanks for this video, you helped me out so much in understanding the process of this repair. Very useful for home owners. Thank you, thank you!
Thank you - you have saved everyone watching this a lot of learning curve. 🥰 Much appreciated.
Thanks for the video, it's something that comes with experience, and it sucks that they don't mention these things when training people to repair a part. Another issue that's fairly common, is the gasket being worn and come off. Sometimes when you pull out the cartridge, a gasket might still be inside the enclosure, so it's important to make sure there's no gasket stuck inside, otherwise you'll have two gaskets stacked, and a big leak.
Also, another tip is having a towel or something to catch the water that spills out when you remove the cartridge.
Oh, and as you realized, yet it's important to have something block the drain in case a screw falls in lol
Just did three of these yesterday. Another thing that people that don't do this stuff all the time (me!) may not realize is that sometimes the replacement cartridges ship with the switch set to ON. So when you turn the water on to check for leaks...you can guess what happens. Learned the hard way yesterday to grab the pliers and make sure the cartridge is set to OFF/CLOSED before doing the water test. I actually hadn't even replaced the stem on the cartridge yet when I did the first test and it was in an overhead shower...so I got soaked. So don't be stupid like me, put the stem on the new cartridge and grab those pliers and twist it all the way to OFF before testing! The Pfister replacement manual doesn't mention the stem or to turn it off before testing, etc.
My previous install had the mix valve reversed so hot came on first and cold later. This video helped me rotate the cartridge 180 degrees and now works perfectly. I had to adjust the black limiter on the front to allow a greater flow of hot water. Not covered in video but easy to do as there are printed words and an indicator arrow on the black tab at the front of the cartridge. Simply remove rotate and reinsert to adjust mixture.
Thank you so much for the video. Following your instructional video I was able to change the faucet cartridge and save a few hundreds dollars!
Thank you so much! I found your video here first and with your help I was able to Successfully replace my shower handle valve cartridge with the simple tools you've shown here. I was surprised to find I actually have my own 3/32" Allen tool in my tool bag!LOL I did this all in less than 2 hours for $24.98 and 1 simple, pleasant, uneventful round trip to Home Depot! Always, Todd in Cocoa Beach, Florida
You should call Price Pfister; there is a lifetime warranty. Free is free... they will send you a new one and you return it to HD but it will take a week to get delivered.
Amazing. Helped greatly. I was so afraid that I might break the plumbing, but successfully removed the faucet using your advice.
I'm about to replace the cartridge because my shower tub faucet is dripping water. This video makes it look easier. Glad to have seen this before I attempt to do mine. The cartridge they gave me seems like the one you have.
Probably just the washers
I will be doing this on my home thanks to your help. I got so far as having trouble with the handle coming off that I nearly gave up and called a plumber to do it for me. However your video and the other comments on this video motivate me to give it a go. My only gripe with my home is that my water shut valve is down by the edge of the driveway near the street. I'll need a special key the city uses to turn off my water which is annoying. Thank you so much for your helpful video. Cheers
Very informative. Your discussion(s) were very helpful.
Found this video by chance, and thank you sir for making it. It had a lot of helpful tips for replacing the fixture. Especially since Pfister does not tell you these hints in their "how to" replacement videos. Thank you again for this helpful video.
Very good video, it helped me a lot. But you did replace the cartridge upside down, 04:25 those two peaks on the face of the cartridge point down.
Mine is in this configuration as well. I think the contractor may have switched the entry points for the hot and cold copper lines. If I put it in "correctly" it is backwards.
yes i’m definitely having a problem removing that ring holding it on. going to add lubricant and hope i can take it off with a wrench.
Thanks very much. Will do mine today when the sun comes up. I totally agree with you about Pfister should edg the model number on the unit. It’d save time for everyone. Thanks again. All great tips!
Thank you , this was a huge help!👍
Actually the side with the three recesses and two "humps" should be on the bottom, according to another couple videos. Glad yours worked.
Thank you so much. I find your video extremely helpful because I have the same leaky faucet problem.
Thanks, you saved me time and money.
The last video I watched indicated that the “vampire teeth” go on the bottom. I also had to widen the opening because the original installer just mounted the shower wall snugged up the the core with zero room to remove the cartridge. The bad words were flying out on my mouth.
Great video. It never is as simple as they make it out to be.
You actually put the cartridge in upside down. The “divots” face downward.
Yes, it is installed wrong (upside down,). The Pfister maintence video put the cartridge in the other way. ua-cam.com/video/AdvBu7JXSvk/v-deo.html. But thank you for the very helpful video overall.
Very helpful video. Made the installation much easier
Very informative video. Thanks ever so much!
Thanks for the tips 🙏
Good to put plumbing grease on your O rings all 3 of them.
Can you put it on the threads of the screws to keep them from corroding and seizing? If not, I wonder about anti seize lube made for car engines…
Good info Darren, especially about the manufacturers laziness and customer service.
I wouldn't call it laziness, but they just want to make sure they send you the correct replacement part.
This is why we should all keep the paperwork in a ziplock bag under the sink, that's where mine is.
At about 2:16 on the Pfister video (ua-cam.com/video/AdvBu7JXSvk/v-deo.html) their video says
that the groove is facing down towards the tub.
I’d stay away from wd40, that thing is so penetrating… and can linger for a long time. I used it once on a bathtub spout and kept getting the whiff of it in water for at least a year. I’d also suggest to place a towel underneath the cartridge before taking it out, that extra water might drain inside the wall
Hi thank you so much for very detail video. I just followed your instruction and now it's done.
You should put some plastic or something to create a trough under the valve. This will keep water from pouring down into your wall when the valve is removed.
Good idea! I will try that next time.
Good tips thanks!
Question for anyone here: I put a brand new trim kit to replace an old Pfister handle and I can't seem to figure out how to get the handle flush to the plate. I woould have assumed that all kits would match up fine with the plate, but no. Would I just grind down the ring that holds the plate against the wall? I'm thinking that might be the best solution, but thought I'd ask here. Any suggestions?
You should also mention that the temp is adjustable by removing the black end cap and rotating to the desired temp.Don't set it to high or a scalding could happen...........
very informative useful video. Thanks!
Great video, thanks for posting!
I am in the middle of this project, I have the handle and trim plate off, started with the 4 screws for the retainer ring, I am going to call Price Pfister to ensure what size those screws are and get new ones, its worth putting in brand new screws so its not even harder the next time.
If I remember right, the screws are made of a non-ferrous material so they will not rust. However, they will get corroded. If you are unable to get new screws from Price Pfister you can also consider soaking them in a product called CLR to clean the corrosion. After the soak a quick brush with an old toothbrush should clean them up for you.
@@DarrenOverby Interestingly... I got PP on the phone this morning and they are sending me the 4 screws AND a new retainer ring FREE! I would say, get the new screws and plate and swap them out when doing the cartridge. They really will take care of you.
@@DarrenOverby Oh yea, I would mention to make sure to put a towel over the drain to not lose any of them... and be very cautious when pulling out the plate screws so they don't fall behind the wall.
Thank you for the help.
I installed 2 of these, one in each bathroom shower. The first one went in with no issues, water leak tested and water temperature tested, no leaks and water got hot. The second one went in easy also but, doing the water temperature test it did not get too hot, kind of LUKE HOT. Thought I may have a problem with new cartridge, or pipes in wall, because the sink is 3 feet away and it gets hot. Replaced the cartridge again, same issue. Called a plumber to check, he said there was an adjustment on the cartridge, he adjusted it and all is well. He just took the handle off and did this adjustment. He didn’t show me.
I found out that the valve body is compatible with most of not all the trim
I could not get the handle off ? What method did you use ? At what point do you just saw it off ??
Unfortunately, sometimes these handles get corroded and can be most difficult to remove. Maybe try to get WD40 behind the handle with a bendable straw. Be patient and keep wiggling, pulling, and tapping. Another product that might dissolve the corrosion is called CLR. You might want to wait a day for the WD40 or CLR to dissolve the corrosion so maybe you can remove the handle.
Thank you for your video! It helped me!
the groves of the cartridge point down. as installed its installed upside down..180 degrees (Pasadena model)
Thank for your video; I think you have the control module upside down. The bottom part is the part that has the 2 bumps. How I searched for your video is about the handle getting water deposits that I couldn't get my handle back into the plastic stem. I guess I will have to soak that handle; but the problem is that my tenants can't be waiting for me to bring the handle back for a shower. So I will need to use a Dremel with a wire brush... to see if it works.
Very helpful thank you!!
@ 2:13, what is that small metal piece that comes out of the cartridge that you almost dropped down the drain. That's the missing piece I need in my repair. Do you have a part number or measurement? While your handle is slightly different in appearance, its the same as mine when it comes to connecting it together, and I busted my old one. THANK YOU!
I would call it the valve stem but I'm not sure if that's actually the correct term. Feel free to call Price Pfister and refer them to that part of my video. They were helpful when I called. 1-800-PFAUCET (1-800-732-8238)
Great video. Unfortunately for me, the cartridge won’t pull out and I am afraid to pull too hard on it.
Unfortunately, it's a common problem especially if you have a lot of mineral deposits in your water. I sometimes have success on removal with sprays like WD-40, water, wiggling and time (to let the WD-40 settle in). Perhaps someone else here will have other suggestions.
@@DarrenOverbyThanks for your time!
If you get a replacement cartridge for this particular faucet you would also need a new knob because the old knob doesn't work on the replacement cartridges however if you purchase an aftermarket cartridge your old knob will work
I would ask Price-Pfister about this as I did not experience this problem. I'm wondering if they sent you the wrong part.
Your video was a life saver🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏Thanks
Thank you for your great video just changed my shower handle and your video schooled me .
They had me email them photos so they could identify the model. Only the cartridge had a model number on it in a paper collar that was around it . My old one was manufactured in 2010.
So the plumber put it on and now the hole for the Allen key is hidden. Any suggestions?
It's hard to envision how the Allen set screw is hidden. Are you referring to the set screw in the handle? Was your valve installed in a recessed area? Please try to explain more and reference a specific timestamp in my video so we can confirm what "Allen key" you are talking about.
IDK if you will see this, but my Pfister handle turns hard , and it just feels like it need some plumbers grease. Is there a way to lubricate the mechanism?
The previous owners left no way to get to the screws that release the cartridge 🤦🏻♀️ I’m stuck trying to find a way to get to them…
I am in process of getting same cartridge for a Saxton shower handle. Same cartridge. Thanks. Did you do anything to clean mixer body before mounting new cartridge? Did you apply grease to new O rings before mounting?
I don't think I cleaned the mixer body. I might have greased the o-ring but I don't remember for sure. Good luck with your fix.
Thanks bud
I had to first pop the finial-esque cap off the handle first to unscrew it from the base before the assembly would slide out if anyone else has this type. /run-on
Gracias, gracias, You safe us a lot of money 💰,,👍👍
Thank you.
Solid tips.
Thanks for your video. There are some great tips which I'm sure will be useful. Unfortunately, I haven't been able to get past removing the handle on mine. I've used a lot of WD40 along with wiggling, pulling, and pounding, so far to no avail. My handle is actually attached by a screw through the front of the handle (no set screw), after popping off the little cap on the front, but the principle is still the same. It seems a need a gear-puller to get the handle off! As a final resort, I may have to use a saw-zall between the handle and the back plate and just cut the whole thing off, hoping that replacement parts are available from Price-Pfister.
Yes, that's the most difficult part. I wish all valve manufacturers would develop a solution that prevents this. In the past, I've had good luck with CLR (Calcium, Lime, Rust) dissolver. The challenge is getting the fluid into the right place. I wish you luck.
Just a plain screw driver, I have the same with the screw in front. I used a Phillips with no luck just use a reg flat head that fits perfectly into the screws slot & give a little push while you turn. It's plastic remember. FFR!
@@defiantlion231 Thanks for the info. Getting the screw out was no problem, but the handle would not come off, no matter what I did. I ended up ripping apart the big round cover so I could get behind the handle, then pryed off the handle with a claw hammer from behind it.
@@MikeGriffiths1234 I'm afraid this is going to be me. Mine has been on for about 15 years, and we have horrible hard calcium water. I dread even starting the project. Replacing everything, not just the cartridge. Any tips now that you got your off?
@@nancycusumano2776 My only advice is make sure you have the right replacement parts before you start. I couldn't find brushed nickel parts so I ended up with shiny nickel which doesn't match the rest of the fixtures in the house. Once you have the parts, you are good to use a hacksaw or whatever else you need. I did not replace the valve, only the cartridge and the trim pieces that I had to rip off.
Thank so much
I have the exact same shower model. What cartridge model is needed for this shower?
I'm not sure. I just called them at 1-800-PFAUCET (1-800-732-8238)
Great tips. Man my cartridge is not smooth at all. I had to leave the 4 screws pretty loose or it binges. Not much I can do, is there? Thank u
does the all cartridge work with the push pull handle?
Sorry, I don't know the answer to this. I would recommend contacting Price Pfister to ask.
Great video. However according to a few video's I watched before yours, you have it upside down. According to them, on the valve they said those vampire teeth should be pointed down. Thats those two humps in between the screws that you have pointed up. Now they could have been wrong but two different videos said the same thing. But still, great video and I'm going to try replacing this myself instead of calling a plumber first.
One bit of trouble I had, when I took the cartridge out the rubber seals stayed stuck inside and I never noticed. Tap wouldn’t work till I took it apart and noticed the seals stuck on, got them off with a screwdriver then put the new cartridge back in.
I've seen this before also. I should have mentioned it in the video.
I couldn’t get the Allen screw and stripped it. I just drilled it out and now I still can’t get the handle off. Very aggravating. Sledge hammer is my next option.
I hate when this happens. In the old days facets had a large visible screw. It wasn't as pretty but very functional and maintainable. I feel like these tiny screw prettify features are really planned obsolescence in disguise. Best of luck with your repair.
I have the same exact issue that you just described. Wondering how did you remove the handle.
Do you know the name of the piece that attached the lever to the cartridge? The metal screw thing?
I call it a hex set screw. Not sure if that's the technical name though.
I have a Price-P that looks just like this from 2008. any idea which cartridge I can use? thank you
I don't know for sure. However, I found Price-Pfister is helpful with sourcing parts if you contact them. www.pfisterfaucets.com/parts-support
We have had a screw down the drain situation. Do you know the name of the part that you had to wrench a bit? It goes into the plastic part that then gets secured to the handle?
Sorry to hear about your difficulty. Unfortunately, I don't know the name of that part. However, Price-Pfister support is pretty good. You can call them at 1-800-PFAUCET (1-800-732-8238). On the other hand, you might be able to recover the part. Search UA-cam for this video: "How to Recover Jewelry from a Drain | Roto-Rooter" for a couple of methods. It's for a sink drain but it will generally apply to all drains.
Most times you have to open the valve and close it after the o ring is snug,,,sometimes being in the closed position will hold you off as the valve hits before the o ring can snug up,,,,it's that way on a cheap faucet I'm not sure about cartridge unit repairs.
What'd the part number for that piece?
I'm not sure if I know this. I just called up Price Pfister and they sent me the the parts after identifying which type of faucet I had.
A+ video bro
Hi Daren,
Do you happen to know the specific model for that Marielle one? I need exactly the same turn valve and spot in polished chrome. Since you already went through the trouble I thought I ask, save me some trouble.
Hi Basha, I couldn't find the model number in my files but I found my receipt from Home Depot and traced it back to this item: www.homedepot.com/p/Pfister-Marielle-1-Handle-1-Spray-Wall-Mount-Shower-Only-Trim-Kit-in-Brushed-Nickel-Valve-Not-Included-LG89-7MBK/304960604 On that page it shows a model number of LG89-7MBK. Hope this helps.
What model do you have? I have the exact same one and can’t figure it out
I didn't know my model number either so I sent Price-Pfister support this video ua-cam.com/video/ULNYjUfHo8U/v-deo.html . When the responded they said, "according to the image you have Marielle Model: R898MBK" I hope this helps.
Chose Moen or Delta. Best success with their product.
Wait, What??? We have to turn off the water?!😳
Very nicely done, visually, it looks like I have THAT exact unit. My question is…. HOW did you get the replacement valve free from them???
Thanks!
That was thankfully pretty easy. Just call them at 1-800-PFAUCET (1-800-732-8238)
@@DarrenOverby .. all done! Your video was super helpful and I called the number, had the part in a week!
Hello should you Caulk at the very bottom where there's an open notch on trim plate?
I personally don't like to do this because, if there's later a leak in the valve, you will not know about it. The caulk will make it more likely that the water goes behind the wall and into the wall. Over the long term, that leak in the wall could cause lots of damage to the framing and tile substrate. I also don't like caulking around the base of toilets for the same reason. If there's a leak, I want to know about it as soon as possible so it can be addressed. That said, I've even seen some professional plumbers caulk around plumbing fixtures so maybe there's something I don't know. Perhaps others will chime in on this thread and let us know their opinions.
@@DarrenOverby thank you so much for your input I actually had an issue with mold on the backside of my shower wall (behind the trim plate) which is my bedroom closet and there was mold in the bottom of the closet on drywall, I was told because there wasn't any caulking around the plate to begin with. So I'm just trying to prevent any further issues. Thank you!
@@lisam7511 I should add it will depend on the nature of the leak and where it exactly is on the facet to determine if it water will appear under the trim plate. If the leak is at the back of the facet inside the wall you might not be able to see anything come out from the trim plate. In my mind, I want to increase the chances that I will see the water come out from under the trim plate so I don't caulk. Personally, I think valve manufacturers should have a cheap plastic shield behind and around the valve to divert any leaks forward where you are more likely to see a problem.
@@DarrenOverby Good idea!!!!!
Use a scrapper to remove backplate and some Vaseline on the owe ring
Good video. What did the cartridge assembly part number end to be?
Looked through my emails. I think the part number was 974042. They sent it free on warrenty.
@@DarrenOverby Thank you.
where can I get the parts that you replaced.thanks
As far as I know Price-Pfister as a lifetime warrenty on all of their products. Just contact them and they will send you the parts.
got it. thanks a lot.
@@DarrenOverby thank you
I think you have the model i just sent an email to PP about! I am getting all or mostly hot water. No cold
Sure where she would have put the part number of the new cartridge
there should have been 4 screws to remove.....you skipped a step.
They mention shutting of the main water supply at 0:28
You're right! I missed that one.
A bunch of common sense stuff they forgot aye
🤔🙄🙄plumber!!😂😂😂
You are not a DIYer. Compare 3m35s and 5m, you installed new cartridge reversed 180deg.
Holy shit bro, wd40 from the late 70s? Lol. That's all self explanatory and if you cant figure it out, call a plumber type shit!
I hate pfister products. They look good but quality sucks
So everything you said was all common sense 🤷🤷🤦🤦