Ahhh mate!!! So sorry about that it’s absolutely gutting... but silver lining, you’ve got the best block now and for the future it’s there and perfect! This was just a warm up things always go better second time around, keep on and the hard work at the end will all be worth it! I know I’ve said it before but your videos are cracking and a great resource for the community, onwards and upwards mate, looking forward to the next video!
Keep at it, don't let it get you down. I love the content, and I'm learning a lot from watching you work. It's only parts after all, you'll get it all worked out.:)
Thank u for the video starting, my build as soon as I find those m54 internals. The iron is the way to go with the block for longevity the aluminums are never boost friendly anyway!
Stuff like that happens to the best of us brother. Ever leave the oil cap off the Missus car as she drives off realizing it's toast? I am so proud of you for your determination and for keeping your chin up it's going to seem all the more sweeter when you're driving it :) I admire the realness of what you're going through in the fact that you Post-it
As soon as that first one pinged I winced! I had exactly the same on my cav turbo when doing a HG. It took all I had not to launch my torque wrench through the windscreen! I’m actually about to put my M52 back together now after a slight overheat so it could be the same result as yours. I hope not! Maybe I should just cut my losses now and go M50 block. Really enjoy watching your channel. Don’t give up and look forward to the M50 being built up 💪
Oh no!!! I've been following your build as I build my own, luckily for me all the m52s in the states are iron. It made me nervous seeing you use a tap on the block, everytime I've used a tap it produced a lose thread. I'm glad you got back on the horse and back at it. I'm looking forward to your next videos, You're basically walking me through this build. Thanks Pamo!
Loving your build man. It is so detailed! I'm confident you can complete the build! I am Still gathering all the parts together for my though. Greetings from The Netherlands Keep the vids rolling out man! Also, are you gonna dyno the engine when its done? I'd be interested how much power it would be making.
Thank you and hello Netherlands (my favorite stop over on the way to the Nurburgring). I sure will be dynoing the car afterwards... The previous dyno was to get a baseline so we should be able to see any improvement clearly. Good luck with yours 👍
Omg all threads gone 😃 happened to me also but only a couple boIts spun, I did new threads with 25mm long timeserts 6mm drowned from deck surface to all 14 and it did work for me. My build is m52b25 singe vanos, stock compression, 1bar boost, e85 and 26 to 18 degree BTDC ignition advance in boost area
Hello Pamo , So disappointed and sorry that the threads did not hold. Definitely not your fault . I've heard these alloy blocks referred to as the "butter blocks" . The M50 block will be a long lasting fix. I wonder if helicoils would be another option . Thanks again for the very helpful video. Another thing i really appreciate with all your videos is the very clear audio . Excellent
Thanks again Richard. I've read bad results with helicoils on these threads - timeserts seem to be the accepted fix + arp hardware. Sadly that would cost more than an m50 lump hence my hasty purchase of the iron block. The only problem with those is bore wear. I got lucky with mine, almost no wear - no lip at the top of the bores.
@@ManSeeksCivic So pleased you were able to find a good block and quickly too . I think all who see this video will be thinking long and hard about their M52 rebuild. If its better to just start with the M50 block . It certainly has got me thinking. Thanks again and really wish you success with the build .
Sucks to see that happen with the block while torquing the head bolts but it's far from uncommon. Timesert makes a kit to repair stripped head bolt threads in these aluminum blocks which replaces the relatively weak aluminum threads with a more robust replacement that can handle the clamping load far better. It's not a cheap kit but it's similar to the cost of a used block: www.timesert.com/html/bmw.html
I love the fact you used an e36 to collect an e36 engine for another e36. e36ception! oh and the fact you're scottish and did a random irish accent hahaha
Now why did u do the cams like that?was it a personal preference or is this something required to do the job.i known have to do the cam change just not sure of the opitions if any u can go with
Hey there's no need to throw away the m52 block, you can rethread it easily even with all the internals in it. Ps next time install the head before you install the cams with the trays 👍👍
@@ManSeeksCivic it's much easier to install the trays later, when the head is on the block, also be careful when tightening the cam caps - there's very little thread in the head for the bolts that hold them, especially the first and the last one are very easy to strip
Yop, that sounds terribly bad... I would to know you have cleaned the threads and put in new screws for the cylinder head, or not ? Well done for the time you spend to explain the build ! (I want to do the same on my M52B25 in 1-2years)
Couldn't have cleaned them more, degreased twice, blown out with air line, chased threads with tap twice and degreased and blew out one final time. Used brand new bolts and boom. I believe the block was weakened by a previous overheat even though the car drove fine for a year afterward without any issues at all.
@@ManSeeksCivic Well, in that case, it's not your fault at all. It is also visible that some threads fail before the 90°... I hope you'll have a better chance later on ! I look forward to the next video ;)
That sucks. Obviously you did something wrong. I don’t know why threads snapped, but a lot of aluminium engines behing rebuild every day without an issue. I slapped my m52 together with 1/4 of care you are taking but mine works like a charm.
Overheat buddy. It softens the metal and causes strength issues. I had 2 instances of overheating.... Both of which I caught before it hit the red but I believe this was enough to weaken the alloy. I totally agree about ally blocks in general.... No honda I've worked on has had this problem but there are countless reports of the same issue with the m52.
Sorry mate, but I would have had to spend a lot more over here to timesert and wouldn't be confident enough to do it myself. My m50 block cost just under $150.
Ahhh mate!!! So sorry about that it’s absolutely gutting... but silver lining, you’ve got the best block now and for the future it’s there and perfect! This was just a warm up things always go better second time around, keep on and the hard work at the end will all be worth it! I know I’ve said it before but your videos are cracking and a great resource for the community, onwards and upwards mate, looking forward to the next video!
Also shout out to Natalie, solid team effort guys!
Keep at it, don't let it get you down. I love the content, and I'm learning a lot from watching you work.
It's only parts after all, you'll get it all worked out.:)
Noooooooooo! Sorry to see the headbolt curse got you man. Looking forward to the cast iron block build
Thank u for the video starting, my build as soon as I find those m54 internals. The iron is the way to go with the block for longevity the aluminums are never boost friendly anyway!
I love it when an engine comes together. Hope the m50 will do well!
Stuff like that happens to the best of us brother. Ever leave the oil cap off the Missus car as she drives off realizing it's toast?
I am so proud of you for your determination and for keeping your chin up it's going to seem all the more sweeter when you're driving it :)
I admire the realness of what you're going through in the fact that you Post-it
As soon as that first one pinged I winced! I had exactly the same on my cav turbo when doing a HG. It took all I had not to launch my torque wrench through the windscreen! I’m actually about to put my M52 back together now after a slight overheat so it could be the same result as yours. I hope not! Maybe I should just cut my losses now and go M50 block. Really enjoy watching your channel. Don’t give up and look forward to the M50 being built up 💪
That crack is a sound I won't forget in a hurry... Good luck with yours buddy. Ill pray to the head bolt gods for you 👍
Oh no!!! I've been following your build as I build my own, luckily for me all the m52s in the states are iron. It made me nervous seeing you use a tap on the block, everytime I've used a tap it produced a lose thread. I'm glad you got back on the horse and back at it. I'm looking forward to your next videos, You're basically walking me through this build. Thanks Pamo!
Thank you and good luck with yours. Iron for the win 👍
So clean
Oh my god man I’d have lost the plot if that happened to me at the end 😩😩😩😩 great videos as usual 💯🤙
Loving your build man. It is so detailed! I'm confident you can complete the build! I am Still gathering all the parts together for my though. Greetings from The Netherlands Keep the vids rolling out man!
Also, are you gonna dyno the engine when its done? I'd be interested how much power it would be making.
Thank you and hello Netherlands (my favorite stop over on the way to the Nurburgring).
I sure will be dynoing the car afterwards... The previous dyno was to get a baseline so we should be able to see any improvement clearly.
Good luck with yours 👍
Shit! I’ve had my fingers crossed on this. Ah well, you tried your best.
Looking forward to the M50 build now. Great Vids 👍🏻
Forgot the euro m52 was aluminum. Planning on stroking an iron m52 with the crank from my m54b30
Go for it. Old fashioned iron does the job nicely.
Omg all threads gone 😃 happened to me also but only a couple boIts spun, I did new threads with 25mm long timeserts 6mm drowned from deck surface to all 14 and it did work for me. My build is m52b25 singe vanos, stock compression, 1bar boost, e85 and 26 to 18 degree BTDC ignition advance in boost area
Nice man, well done for sticking with the m52 block 👍
Building my m50 stroker motor right now too, didn’t know this was a thing...
Hello Pamo , So disappointed and sorry that the threads did not hold. Definitely not your fault . I've heard these alloy blocks referred to as the "butter blocks" . The M50 block will be a long lasting fix. I wonder if helicoils would be another option . Thanks again for the very helpful video. Another thing i really appreciate with all your videos is the very clear audio . Excellent
Thanks again Richard. I've read bad results with helicoils on these threads - timeserts seem to be the accepted fix + arp hardware. Sadly that would cost more than an m50 lump hence my hasty purchase of the iron block. The only problem with those is bore wear. I got lucky with mine, almost no wear - no lip at the top of the bores.
@@ManSeeksCivic So pleased you were able to find a good block and quickly too . I think all who see this video will be thinking long and hard about their M52 rebuild. If its better to just start with the M50 block . It certainly has got me thinking. Thanks again and really wish you success with the build .
Sucks to see that happen with the block while torquing the head bolts but it's far from uncommon. Timesert makes a kit to repair stripped head bolt threads in these aluminum blocks which replaces the relatively weak aluminum threads with a more robust replacement that can handle the clamping load far better. It's not a cheap kit but it's similar to the cost of a used block:
www.timesert.com/html/bmw.html
I love the fact you used an e36 to collect an e36 engine for another e36. e36ception! oh and the fact you're scottish and did a random irish accent hahaha
Now why did u do the cams like that?was it a personal preference or is this something required to do the job.i known have to do the cam change just not sure of the opitions if any u can go with
It's specific to this particular cam setup.
Holding my breath for the past five minutes and.... Awe sh*t... Fingers crossed for the cast iron!
Doing a great job but I’m pretty sure you forgot the cylinder head dowels that could definitely cause you some issues.
Fuckkkk!! Gutted for you mate! You jinxed yourself 😩
Hey there's no need to throw away the m52 block, you can rethread it easily even with all the internals in it. Ps next time install the head before you install the cams with the trays 👍👍
It's already a table buddy - I didn't fancy attempting timeserts or god forbid helicoils. Why do you recommend not installing the trays?
@@ManSeeksCivic it's much easier to install the trays later, when the head is on the block, also be careful when tightening the cam caps - there's very little thread in the head for the bolts that hold them, especially the first and the last one are very easy to strip
Really sad for you! Don’t give up! At least the head is all ready! 😔
Shit man, sorry to see this happen..
Your pain has been my gain.
Spiders revenge?
Yop, that sounds terribly bad...
I would to know you have cleaned the threads and put in new screws for the cylinder head, or not ?
Well done for the time you spend to explain the build ! (I want to do the same on my M52B25 in 1-2years)
Couldn't have cleaned them more, degreased twice, blown out with air line, chased threads with tap twice and degreased and blew out one final time. Used brand new bolts and boom. I believe the block was weakened by a previous overheat even though the car drove fine for a year afterward without any issues at all.
@@ManSeeksCivic Well, in that case, it's not your fault at all.
It is also visible that some threads fail before the 90°...
I hope you'll have a better chance later on !
I look forward to the next video ;)
sorry about your build i think iv ask in the wrong places about lowering springs
That sucks. Obviously you did something wrong. I don’t know why threads snapped, but a lot of aluminium engines behing rebuild every day without an issue. I slapped my m52 together with 1/4 of care you are taking but mine works like a charm.
Overheat buddy. It softens the metal and causes strength issues. I had 2 instances of overheating.... Both of which I caught before it hit the red but I believe this was enough to weaken the alloy. I totally agree about ally blocks in general.... No honda I've worked on has had this problem but there are countless reports of the same issue with the m52.
Ok that makes sense.
Just caught the ending, stuff happens. I ruined the the same block the same way but to the main studs......
Copper grease and aluminium...?
Ummm yup. Don't want steel and aluminium together creating an electrolytic cell and corrosion.
oh for f*#ks sake! feel for you brother!
u could have gotten timeserts for like $70 usd and it woulda been cheaper thn a new block
Sorry mate, but I would have had to spend a lot more over here to timesert and wouldn't be confident enough to do it myself. My m50 block cost just under $150.
I was watching this from behind the sofa bro 😔
I was doing it from behind the preverbial sofa chief 😂
m50 should be better, by far.