I own a 2016 Equinox with a 2.4L with just over 100,000 miles. I bought it new in 2016. Last deep freeze in December 2021 my PCV system plugged up and blew out the rear main seal dumping 5 quarts of oil instantly on the highway at 70 miles per hour. Of course the motor was destroyed in a matter of seconds. It bent valves, wrecked the timing chain, etc. I called my Chevy dealer and they said "Sorry your out of luck." , but yes there is a technical service bulletin out on this but you are out of warranty. My only choice was to dish out about $4000 on a junk yard motor and installation. This is a very common problem. I wish they would of at least had the decency to send me a letter letting me know about this issue so I could have easily prevented it. Since this happened to me a few weeks ago I found this car is on the list for many other issues including paper thin frame underneath which rots out in about 8 years, timing chain issues and a few more. I am afraid to drive it now so I traded it in on a Dodge Caravan. No more GM / Chevy for me.
That’s true tho especially the frame and all the bushings underneath with the suspension my 2005 makes all types of clunking loud noises when I hit tiny bumps i just ordered and received new struts, control arms tie rods and new sway bar links as soon as the weather cools down next month it’s all getting replaced. I just replaced the head gaskets had the heads machined the valve covers water pump and gaskets new belts new belt tensioner new egr valve new pcv valve and hose, this car has been a money pit I thought I got a great deal 2 years ago paying $800 I only put $3000 into it plus new tires to lol
And it doubles as an oil cap retainer! I ended up drilling a small hole in the front of the manifold, right where that little valve hole would be, from the outside of the manifold. jammed an opened up paper clip in there, found the hole and gave it a good wallerin out. I then sealed the hole I made in the front with a pan-head screw so I could get in there every other oil change or so to ram out the PCV valve. Seems to work pretty well.
Thank you, Brother. My single-parent Sister, has this Equinox, 2013. I just bought 2 pcv valves and told her to have it replaced every 18 months ( clean and hold on to old part ).
@@Frank4358 I was talking to the other fella that said he bought two valves for his sisters car. Probably is referring to the PCV tube, which people often believe has a valve. I watched your video, both versions. I never said you did not have a PCV valve.
Guys i just rebuilt my Chevy equinox engine, when i replaced my pistons i bought the upgraded pistons with a better oil ring gap, also I drilled holes in the seats of the oil rings and filed them smooth as butter before I put the oil rings in. Refer to Jasper engines video on UA-cam to verify this
Just bought a '13. Haven't even seen it yet. Had my brother-in-law check it out. I'm okay with replacing rings if oil consumption is more than I like. Just saw you replaced pistons also. Did you notice much difference from the old ones to the new ones? Thank you!
Nice video, thank you for your patience. It is very well possible there are throttle body spacers with vacuum ports that would be a bit more reliable and mechanically sturdier for the 2.4l motor. I ended up using a throttle-body spacer as a vacuum source for my catch can on my 2019 Equnox 2.0t LTG.
Wondering Why I’ve only heard of the lawsuit pertaining to the reimbursement of repairs made within 7.5 years manufacture or 120,000 miles. Any additional information would be greatly appreciated. My gf just bought her 2012 Equinox with the 2.4 in late 2019 and was completely unaware of the issue until it became an issue. Unfortunately she just missed the 7.5 year cut off but is under 120k in mileage. It pisses me off a dealership would put a vehicle like this on the lot most likely knowing the condition was present.
@@MRW21783 bummer & BS on dealership ! I bought a car. Long story but there was no way they didn't know! On my Honda ! Absolutely impossible for them not to know. I go to the Honda dealership and they want $120+ to look at it. I go on line, and all kinds of complaints & information on the issue ! I am an old guy, (not techy I am saying) but we were successful with a cure that was helping my friends vehicle for one year ( since Mar '19) before they had the rebuild done for no charge. It may help your gf vehicle. If interested LMK. We can talk. I don't want to post on here, too much to type, too much time. Vehicle has several issues also. I have Q's on which of the issues you guys have.. I don't want to post my phone # either though.
Wondering Why her 2.4 has the piston ring issue which causes very excessive oil consumption (weekly adding) and which causes oil being sucked into the air intake and throttle body. It’s just a ticking time bomb and will eventually be a $8000 dollar paper weight unless rebuilt.
@@MRW21783 here's what we did. People will give negative comments but it worked for us, after we were given two oral guesstimates of a $4,500. to $5,000. Rebuild. Rings and Valve timing actuator valve are oil related. Varnish & build up is a problem in engines, especially in the ones we are discussing. We tried several things than switched to Amsoil's top oil, Signature Series, (I was reluctant because I was paying for it) and Amsoil micro oil filter. I had been putting some fuel cleaner in it before but now went with Amsoil's PI fuel additive And I saw they had a new product, a upper cylinder lube, and we decided to try it. Then 🙏. I kept calling Cy, vehicle owner, asking how it was going. 1 day later. 2 days, 3 days Response was positive each time. It coded once for VTiming but did not stall out like it normally would. It started to stall out once with no code two days later. We kept using the additives every fill up. PI is to use twice in beginning then every 4 000 miles but we used it for next 8 fill ups hoping it may help, then every 3rd fill up. Use upper cylinder lube every fill up. It was a shot in the dark but a year later it was still running good and not using oil like before.
I installed an oil catch can in line between the valve cover and air-box (in the area shown at 7:02). There is a nice empty spot on the radiator support next to the air filter, making it very convenient to empty the can. I think this is a better solution since the catch can filters out any contaminants from getting sucked back into your engine through the throttle body.
@@Frank4358 Well the pressure issue (that caused blown main seals) was from the PCV hole in the intake getting completely blocked by frozen liquid. Eliminating liquids from getting pulled back into the intake using a catch will resolve that issue. What you did will also keep that tiny hole from getting blocked, but a catch can will do the same without modification other than mounting the can. As far as the oil consumption issue. That was completely separate from the PCV system and was specific to the 2.4L Ecotec of the 2010-2011 year models and starting in 2012 with the LEA version of this engine the excessive oil consumption was resolved.
@@cswann8 there's a TSB that covers 2010 - 2015 regarding blocked PCV and oil consumption. The PCV was getting clogged, as well as the breather return from the cylinder head to the air box. Simply using a catch can at the breather side will not relieve crankcase pressure.
How is your setup working, updates? I would think a CC would relieve pressure and keep crap from entering the upper intake box, plenum and eventually making it's way into the throttle body. It's definitely better than the OEM PCV hard line that gets clogged. ua-cam.com/video/H5bUBfa7JEI/v-deo.html
@@350Zquicksilver My Terrain is running like a Swiss watch and the catch can really does a good job of making sure the top half of the PCV system gives clean air to my intake. In warm weather I don't mess with it much, but in winter I have to keep a close eye on the can and empty it often.
Thanks for posting. I serviced mine today (2013 Equinox 2.4L). Orifice hole was completely blocked. Engine was not consuming oil - I guess I am lucky. I did not add the PCV upgrade, but followed the GM service bulletin - cleaned orifice and drilled a slightly larger hole. I did not need to remove secondary fuel pump - just the fuel line and metal bracket. I managed to remove manifold down and past the protruding fuel pipe on the pump. Put back together and have vacuum again. Also, my electrical connectors came off pretty easy - none broke fortunately. Will check vacuum on subsequent oil changes to see if hole gets plugged again.
@@rondavis2791 Yes, still runs OK. Not burning oil. I pull the PCV tube when I change oil and still feel a vacuum - so the orifice hole is not blocked. :-)
I own a 2012 Equinox with this engine, and I need to point out 2 things. 1. Years ago, cars had a small filter just inside the PCV connection to the air intake which stopped oil from getting into the incoming air but allowed the crankcase gases in to be burned for emissions control. I'm not sure how you'd add this to the 2.4L, but I think it would be easier. 2. The engine in this video sounds like it's low on oil. Based on my experience (210,000 miles), the engine should run MUCH quieter than that with a proper oil level. When this engine gets down to 2 quarts (that's 3 quarts low), it will knock, and only adding oil will fix it. As for PCV pressure, this engine has 11.2 to 1 compression (high for gasoline), which means the combustion gases will have substantial pressure both at the exhaust valves and in the crankcase. If you suspect an oil leak, check the seal around the oil pan, and the oil drain plug. The factory oil pan seal is not a gasket, but a sealant. This can develop leaks.
The filter you speak of was a foam filter that was installed inside the air cleaner assembly. There's a baffle under the oil cap that deflects oil away from the PCV, so there's no oil transfer. The engine had a full compliment of oil -- it was not low. And the "noise" you hear was from the high-pressure fuel pump. A noise that's considered normal by General Motors. It was confirmed using A stethoscope.
I took the premise of what you did here but made it (in my opinion easier and more serviceable) i used the same oil cap and pcv valve as you but instead of removing the intake manifold i tapped into the brake booster hose with a tee and ran that to a catch can . So i went from the pcv valve in the oil cap into a catch can then out of the catch can into the booster line with a tee. No intake removal necessary and while the catch can increased the price by 27$ it was far less work and now i can monitor what is coming out of the engine. The whole process took me 45 min . The hardest part was mounting the can
GIno if you take a look at the other GM vehicles using the Ecotec engine, they do the same, tapping into the brake booster port. Looks they may use a check valve.
Wow yours makes alot of rattle noises like ours after it ran low on oil, it can be the aux fuel pressure pump and it can also be the timing guides and tensioners. Great idea for the pcv valve though
So im in process of doing this. How does this get rif of the oil consumption? If it was sucking oil through pcv orifice in intake wouldnt it just push oil through the new pcv valve and into the intake and still burn it? Also i am removing my vented oil cap is there a possibility of using this method and it builds up pressure and blows out rear main seal? Or is that not possible with the pcv valve in the oil cap?
The alternate PCV draws the pressure out of the engine into the plenum and then burns the fumes harmlessly in the combustion chamber. If you remove the oil cap you will see a baffle under the cap that prevents oil splashing back on the PCV. The reduced crankcase pressure alleviates the blowby, thereby eliminating the oil consumption. After performing this modification on my engine, all oil consumption stopped.
Good Idea but if i may Say two Things one the hose connected to the manifold is your vacuum hose. instead of drilling a new hole in the intake just cut the vacuum line and put in a tee fitting to run your hose from it also you would want to put a catch can system in line with the vacuum hose and oil cap thus to catch any water vapor or oil vapor before it goes right into your intake which is bad on GDi engines since the oil will build up on the valves because direct injection dose not spray fuel over vales like a convention fuel rail dose making it build carbon on the valves causing problems. You should also add a catch in between the original pvc system for this same reason.
We considered that, but that line goes to the brake power booster. There's always a possibility of contaminating the booster. This configuration does not require any catch can, and the vapors from the engine are harmlessly burned in the combustion chamber. I've been running the engine like this for over three years now. No combustion problems, no engine codes, and no oil usage.
I feel like having the pcv draw from the oil cap would draw more oil into the intake system and foul the pistons and burn more oil. Oil is being flung around by the camshaft. What are your thoughts?
Solution I found was a ventilated oil screw cap. ACDelco Oil Filler Cap FC219. Says that it won't fit on an Equinox however many posts said that it will indeed fit on the oil fill. I also have a 2007 Pontiac G6 and it fits this also.
A vented cap allows release of pressure build up so why exactly wouldn't work? Obviously venting through the pcv is best but if it did get blocked with gunk or freezing a release of pressure would be preferred over blowing out a seal.
If it throws a code I will go back to original oil fill cap. I will then drill a small clean out hole from the outside of the intake and seal it with a machine screw. Cleaning it out with wire or paper clip when I do an oil change. Alot easier then removing the intake. Even if I need to clean it more often not a problem. I already check weekly for oil level. Just another quick check. A few good videos out there on how drill the hole including putting dielectric on the drill bit so the plastic shavings stick to the bit. There is always more than one way.
@catherineandjimleclaire9034 but it still doesn't work. It's simply a temporary repair . Drilling out the PCV orifice changes the vacuum signal. You will be chasing this problem forever. My solution is permanent.
I had this issue. Main seal blew out. The worst part is that I heard the engine noise well before that low oil pressure light came on. So its really two issues. The 2nd one being that GM's low oil pressure warning is a joke.
Sure would like to know where GM is getting its engineers. That design is even worse than the one that was used on the LD9 quad 4. That one at least never clogged up. Can't understand why they wouldn't use a traditional PCV system that's been around since 1963.
GM gets most of it's Engineers from the University of Michigan book and math smart but many, have no basic mechanical aptitude or idea how parts are manufactured.. I worked in Ann Arbor for years as an Engineer with a BS in manufacturing technology from Wayne State University and ran circles around those U of M nerds. I worked for an OEM GM supplier later on, and GM had poor designs that were hard to manufacture yet they wanted cheap prices and they rarely listened to suppliers about simpler better designs. GM is all about paying cheap prices on complicated designs which is why the mostly suck.
@@robc8468 when you consider the idiot that is running General Motors, Mary Berra, who doesn't have a clue like most of GM's management it isn't hard to figure out what the problem is. I think between the two of us we could design and engineer far better cars than GM is doing at current.
@@thomasbradley512 Berra started as an elecrical engineer with the Pontiac Fiero program. Among other things the Fiero is known for having electrical problems. GM executives are rarely promoted for doing good cars it is based mostly on poltics and shaving pennies out of the end product. Once in a great while GM makes a decent car or truck almost by mistake.
@@Frank4358 You are not far off the irony is GM could design 2 or 3 pvc valves for its entire engine lineup and get economy of scale but due to the many fiefdoms within each engine design group will design a one off pvc system then purchasing will try to beat pennies out of the supplier for a relatively low volume. Working for a GM supplier we usually were barely above break even on most GM work the only real profit money made was on pickup trucks due to volume.
HI, Frank I had been looking for a video like yours. I have Terrain same problem I need to know what size is the hole at the manifold, I don't see on any of the comments Thanks
Hi Frank, would you be able to tell me the specific hose and elbow parts that you used in this video? Do I need to put a PCV valve on the oil cap and intake?
I tried to get that oil cap twice from 2 different vendors. They keep substituting with a flat gates or flat motorad that’s low profile can’t use with the cover. What part number should I try?
@@Frank4358 according to the picture Advanced is substituting with the motorad flat cap. I tried it anyways. It’s a little tight for your hands, but it clears the engine cover. That’s the important part. I did find one eventually on eBay. Thanks again for the help.
if the car having white cloud from exhaust is it impact from pcv ?, my chevrolet captiva having white cloud from exhaust, need help for this... thank you
When are you seeing the white cloud? Is it a dense cloud or a whisp of a white cloud? Have you checked your oil level? Is it low, or does it look like chocolate milk? Have you looked at the coolant level? Is it low? Does it look like chocolate milk?
@@Frank4358 already checked oil level and it is decrease not like chocolate milk, when start the engine and waiting until 1 hour it still white smoke from exhaust
@kampoeng 22 how dense is the white cloud? Since it's still there after an hour (not sure why you're letting it idle for that long) it sounds like the PCV could be clogged, or your rings are getting loose and allowing blowby. Or it's a combination of the two. There's a PCV return vent at the cylinder head. I would use air pressure to open it up. The breather tube to the air plenum could be clogged, so remove it, then blow air pressure through it to clean out any clogs. If you still have white smoke, add some Lucas oil additive. It should help to seal the rings better -- if only temporarily -- but it will help to diagnose the problem.
So many comments.. difficult to follow along as to the actual modification and parts used. I have buick lacrosse same issue needing pcv repair. Where do i collect these parts Thnx
Frank the one problem I can see with modification you seemed to have tapped into one of the intake runners going to cylinder 4 . This means all your PCV gas are going one cylinder and not distributed evenly to all cylinders. Bad idea. Causing one cylinder to run lean or even miss, now you have another problem. How big is the PCV valve are you using, you don’t say. Valves and the flow rates are built into the air/ fuel calculation designed by the engineers. Messing with will bring on the Check engine light. Before you just start drilling holes in your intake you should find out how the engine works and the consequences of making shade tree modifications are.
The fitting is placed at the bottom of the runner, so it doesn't affect vacuum signal to the cylinder. There is no check engine light that's been illuminated. Not when it was installed, and none to this day. I haven't had any "lean" conditions on any one cylinder associated with this modification. Your fears are unfounded. If you want to research the PCV dimensions, etc., the part number is listed so research away. The only thing that's changed is that I no longer use any oil. The level remains at the full level, and I have changed the oil more than a few times. I sample my oil, and the oil is more stable now, maintaining adequate viscosity.
Hi Frank. What were your symptoms prior to the fix? I am experiencing blowby and there is no vacuum at the pcv tube but there is air flowing out of it. Is that normal? I just bought it so I don't know if it's consuming oil.
I was experiencing a loud clacking noise on cold start, and experiencing oil usage. I changed the oil and filter to get a baseline of information. I also have my oil tested to check for internal problems. What I found was severe fuel dilution. I took it to a friend's shop to get his opinion. He removed the oil cap and found pressure from the crankcase. Chevrolet's solution was to remove the intake manifold then clean out 1/8" hole that they call a PCV. They also recommended cleaning out the breather tube that goes from the cylinder head to the airbox. I also used an air nozzle to check if the orifice tube at the head was blocked: it was. My modification stopped the oil usage, and I now have a fully operational PCV system.
@@Frank4358 Thanks Frank. So just to get oriented. It's normal to feel air flowing from the tube that we remove from the air box, not suction? Also now that you have made your modification do you no longer feel air blowing out your oil cap hole?
@@Frank4358 I really appreciate you taking the time. You've been a lot of help. I think I'll do a leak down test in addition to cleaning intake manifold. Thanks
Frank check this youtube video out. This guy is getting a vacuum at the manifold port. It's at the 4 minute mark ua-cam.com/video/hTrfqh88660/v-deo.html
I am asking around everywhere, I know that multiple forums and people are recommending to use di-electric grease on the intake seals... but I have also read that silicone products are bad for O2 sensors... Is di-electric grease O2 sensor safe? Are people just getting confused between Silica and Silicone? I am asking since my O2 sensor failed right after this intake manifold job, and I used di-electric grease. The first time I did the job, I used Vaseline, which seemed to work just fine.
Just adding dielectric grease on the intake seals is not going to affect the O2 sensors. It's such a small amount on the edge of the seals. Just don't pack it on like you're greasing a wheel bearing. I used dielectric grease on my intake seals with no adverse problems.
I know this has been out for a while but, could you just modify the oil cap and route the relief hose into the air box just after the filter? There would be virtually no disassembly required; just mods to the air box and oil cap. Just looking for a simplier way without removing the intake.
No. That will not do anything useful. The way it's set up it's drawing a vacuum and relieving the crankcase pressure. The vapors are being drawn into the combustion chamber and burned off.
Cap was purchased at Advance Auto Parts. Part Number # 10099. This cap has a flat top. It was spot faced then milled 0.750" with an end mill on a Bridgeport.
@MerkoniumJones reduced crankcase pressure. When the pressure within the engine has no way to be relieved, the pressure finds the path of least resistance: through the rear main seal and passing by the low-tension rings. With an active PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation), no pressure builds up.
Im currently working on a 2013 equinox 2.4 liter with a vaccuum noise unless oil fill cap is removed. Cleaned intake and PCV hose to air box. Also replaced valve cover. Had to drill a small 1/8 hole in oil fill cap. Did yours make a noise before you did this added port to the intake. Its definitly vaccuum and not crank pressure.
So when you take off the oil cap do you get pressure (a pulsation) from inside the rocker cover? And when you cleaned out the line from the head to the air box did you use any airpressure to check if there was a blockage?
@Duane B. Your fresh air circuit between the crankcase and air plenum is blocked, you are hearing high vacuum in the crankcase from the orifice. I hope you did not drill out the orifice.
Very good video, but just curious, why couldn't you just cut the existing line and splice the line running from the existing valve into the new line running from the oil cap, through a collection can and then back into the existing line feeding the intake? This would remove the water/oil from both PCV valves using a common collector can. I am buying a 12 Equinox and this is how I would like to do it, because I feel the oil cap PCV will not fail as easily as the factory one. I just was curious if there is a reason you can think of that this method wouldn't work? This whole process would take under an hour to complete and I would think it would do the same thing. I saw on another video where someone spliced a can into the existing line, but you are still relying on that tiny hole on the PCV end not plugging for whatever reason, so I feel 2 PCV valves is the way to go.
The OEM PCV is a tiny, 1/8" orifice in the middle of the intake plenum. No way to splice in. By installing a fitting at the bottom of the intake runner you don't upset the vacuum signal to the cylinder head. If you splice into power brake vacuum line you run the risk of contaminating the power booster with atomized oil. The oil cap I used was a Stant oil cap. Stant is the OE supplier to GM. So there's no fear of a cap failure. I used a Bridgeport vertical milling machine to spot face the replacement cap. Then I centered the cap and drilled a 0.750" hole to accept the grommet for the PCV valve. I coated the machined surface with dielectric grease before installing the grommet. Then I added a small amount of dielectric grease to the PCV before inserting it into the grommet. There is a baffle between the rocker arms and cam to prevent splatter into the PCV. I would also recommend a dollop of RTV around the fitting you install in the intake runner.
No. The orifice is inside the intake plenum, and mates to an opening at the cylinder head. The hose on the exterior of the manifold is attached to the fitting added to the intake runner to accommodate the auxiliary PCV valve.
how is it working so far? I unclogged my pcv with a 1/16 drill bit but I am afraid it will clog again in a few weeks, so I am interested in doing this.
Since I've done this I have stopped using oil. And my modification is working perfectly. Remember to unclog the return line from the cylinder head to the airbox. I used air pressure.
I’m a mechanic and I work on them stupid cars every day. I would say like every 3 to 4 weeks one of them cars come in low on oil and the oil is dark black and jumped timing. I like them but because I don’t own one I never really care for them. my brother is buying one next week. Even tho I told him and warned him about all the common problems he still wants it. So now I’m stuck looking around for ways to keep the stupid thing running so he don’t bother me to much with it.
Can this be done on a 2012 GMC Terrain 2.4L. Having major oil consumption issues at 85k miles. I’m aware of the GM class action lawsuit regarding faulty piston rings.
@@Frank4358 My 3.6l Pentastar Dodge Journey with 120,000 miles is so silent my wife left it running overnight it has variable valve timing but almost no noise.
@@Frank4358 Sorry Frank, i think i'm part retarded (youtube retarded). I can't find the parts list. There's like a bunch of comments including this one? Am i looking for the list in the right place? I think your idea is genius and would like to do the same to my equinox.
@@ronaldtrudeau5722 The Grommet is a Dorman PN# 42330 PCV is a INTERMOTOR, SMP, PN# PCV352. I bought them at Advance Auto Parts Oil cap is a Stant/Carquest PN# 10099 You need to spot face the top of the cap then drill a 0.750" hole at the center of the cap.
Grommet is a Dorman PN# 42330 PCV is a INTERMOTOR, SMP, PN# PCV352. I bought them at Advance Auto Parts Oil cap is a Carquest/Stant PN# 10099 You'll need to drill a 0.750" hole to make everything work.
Great video Frank. Thank you. Any thoughts on using existing vacuum ports on the intake and attaching a T fitting to avoid having to remove? Also, what's you opinion on putting a catch can between the PCV valve and the oil fill cap? In other words attach hose to oil fill cap with open fitting, then to catch can to remove oil vapor, then install the PCV to in the outlet hose of the catch can between the catch can and intake?
The whole idea is to take the oil and vapors from the engine, and return them to the combustion chamber to be burned off. If you add a catch can between the PCV and the intake manifold you defeat the emissions system. As far as adding a T-fitting to an existing vacuum line, I've discussed that in a previous comment, but here it is, again; The only line that is large enough is the vacuum assist for the power booster. If you introduce any oil in that line you run the risk of contaminating the power booster which could eventually cause a brake failure.
@@Frank4358 Thank you for the reply Frank. By catching the oil vapors and condensing them in a can it is effectively not defeating the emissions as the vapors are not being vented to the atmosphere and the additional benefit of not reintroducing oil vapors to the intake. Maybe using the brake booster vacuum line with a catch can can work? Thanks and take care.
One last question Frank and I do appreciate your replies. Isn't the brake booster line constantly under vacuum so even if a oil catch can isn't used, there wouldn't be any vapors going to the booster?
@@Vance005 vacuum varies based on throttle opening and engine rpm. So at certain times during the drive cycle the vacuum signal can be as low as 0 and as high as 20-inches of vacuum. There is always the possibility of oil contamination in the vacuum line.
@@Frank4358 you simply dont know how the brake booster works. It runs on vacuum, one way from the booster to the intake. It also has a one way valve to prevent air or vapor from entering the booster. Running for over a year, no issues. Putting a catch can on that line will collect a large amount of oil and pass the vapor. I have collected over a quart of oil in the past 15k miles. If your not using a high efficient baffle and filter media you will be sucking in a huge amount of oil. By putting the fitting where you did, most of that oil will be sucked into the runners of #3 and #4 cylinders. Using the brake booster port centrally located it will be dispersed to all intake runners equally. Also not blocking off the internal orifice you fefeat performance and function of the PCV valve. I used a custom, adjustible PCV valve, blocked the port, installed catch can, and tapped the brake booster hose. I get a constant .1 inHg a vacuum in the crankcase at all engine loads which is more than enough to ventilate the crankcase.
@medionlvr not really Just venting takes whatever it sees at the vent. A true PCV system draws the pressure out and then distributes the vapors to the combustion chamber, where they are burned off.
So I did this to my 2011 Chevy equinox it seems to be working good except I have a squealing or squeaking noise. Do you know what this is from? If I take the oil cap off while it’s running the squeaking noise goes away please let me know as soon as possible what this problem could be.
@@jasonrhodes9455 but did you clean out the PCV return line from the cylinder head to the air box? And be sure to use pressurized air on the cylinder head port.
Thanks Frank. But what the heck was that loud ticking at idle when you started it up? Timing chain? Sounds horrible. BUT , THIS WAS 3 YEARS AGO. PLEASE RESPOND TO THIS. ID LIKE TO KNOW IF THE ENGINE STILL RUNS. MY MOTHER BOUGHT A 2012 GMC. SAME MOTOR, SAME NOISE. IM ASKING ON HER BEHALF. thanks man. I hope to hear back from you
It's actually the high pressure fuel pump! I put a stethoscope on the engine and that noise is not associated with the timing chain. Checked with some automotive technician friends and they told me it's a "normal" condition!
2013 chevy eqinox 2.4 engine we have a vehicle came in for master cylinder leaking, remove master cylinder and found brake fluid in booster, replaced both with reman, after bleeding brakes, start engine, runs good at idle, touch gas pedal and engine sucks brake fluid in itself. cleaned engine , replaced booster and master cylinder with new parts, did same thing. left fluid out of master cylinder and you can feel alot of suction on top of master cyl cap. does not have secondary vacuum pump. passes on compression test all within 10 lbs, looses some on leak down test. removed vale covers and looked at cams, used ratchet and turned cams, timing chains seams loosewhen you turn , goes back afet you let off... What is causing this much vacuum? never seen this , i have contacted multiple dealerships and no luck, they have never seen this
So for suck a late response but did you ever find out what was going on. How did it suck that b/f into itself through a T in The B,booster line that's vacuum. I mean had to be a master cylinder right. Pulling bf in over the piston .???
@@dognamedchevyroberts3213 No. That tiny orifice was designed for a specific vacuum signal. So modifying that orifice changes the characteristics. Adding a vacuum port at the bottom of the runner doesn't change the vacuum signal to the engine.
@@Frank4358 I just Contacted GM & Asked them the same Question. They advised me that it is Ok to use a 1/8 drill bit to Drill the Stock manifold Pcv Hole out and the Problem will be Fixed. They said that doing so will NOT affect the Performance of the Vehicle at all. They said to make sure that after you drill out the Stock Pcv Hole to 1/8 to be sure to blow it out to ensure there isn't any plastic shavings in the Manifold before Re-Installing. Just wanted to share the Info with you that I Received Straight from GM.
I enjoyed your video. Is it necessary to remove the intake manifold to clean the 1/8 inch hole or can I just do the modification to the manifold and connect it to the oil cap
To make the modification to the intake manifold it will be necessary to remove it from the cylinder head. Be sure to place a bead of RTV around the base of the fitting once it's installed. And it will be easier to install the PCV hose to the fitting before installing the intake back to the cylinder head. And you will need to modify the Stant oil cap to accept the PCV valve and grommet.
@@jogon5770 not sure how you would do it. There really is no room to get to the manifold. Remember, the fitting must be installed on the bottom of the runner. Take the time, remove the intake then install it properly.
@@Frank4358 5:45-5:50... right top of screen.... near the valve cover bolt... to thre right..... toward rear of cover....☝️ Could be dirt... looks like a hole though
Hi Frank, what about adding a throttle plate spacer with a vacuum port instead of having to pull the intake manifold, would that work? You still haven't burned any oil? Great fix that you came up with which is a permanent fix. Thanks much!
@@Frank4358 Hi Frank, Apparently they don't sell the INTERMOTOR, SMP, PN# PCV352, i can't even find it online. Do you know another PCV that will work with that engine and grommet size? I already bought the grommet and drilled out the cap. I bough a PCV (PCA1002) that I thought was compatible but it appears too large in diameter. Any help would be appreciated, as I am not sure how to size these valves. Thank you!
If you're speaking about the power brake vacuum hose, you run the risk of introducing oil residue to the power booster. Then at some point you'll need to replace the power booster. Giving the PCV a dedicated vacuum port gives you a direct link between the PCV and the intake port, without compromising the brake power booster, or affecting the vacuum signal to the intake port at the cylinder head.
@@rhurtadorh32 it doesn't solve the problem. It just redirects the oil that will need to be drained periodically from the catch can. Doing it the way I showed you keeps the emission system sealed true to OEM. No draining required. And the oil is burned in the combustion chamber.
Hi Frank, last year I installed a separator into the clean side of the PCV system, and it works well and does not freeze up. I have captured quite a bit of moisture and oil. Only occurs at high speeds and moderate loads where intake vacuum is very low. GM designed the fixed orifice PCV system to prevent flow variation of standard valve. Makes for programming the ECU fuel/load maps much easier and reliable. The cleanside operates to pull crank vapors at high speeds and low vacuum. At idle and low speeds in the city, the fixed orifice does a good job of keeping crankcase clear. I was expecting see a lot of carbon and "gunk" in opening of the head but it was clean from your video. Did you block off the orifice? The only time I get build-up on the cleanside tube and reservoir is during highway driving, low vacuum and high moisture conditions, such as raining or snowy weather. Did you take any vacuum measurements in the intake or pressure in the crankcase, before and after. Just curious to compare. Can you connect a vacuum gauge with a long tube and check the reading at highway speeds, up and down hills and flats. I am considering a similar design. How did you select the PCV valve? There are dozens of PCV valves with different flow rates and specs. Getting too much or to little could cause problems for the engine in the long term. I am considering a ME Wagner, dual stage adjustable valve that you can calibrate for the need (size, vacuum specs, and performance of your engine. It uses 3/4" grommet opening, same as yours and should connect to the your 3/8" hose easily. Check it out.
That tiny orifice gets clogged, as well as the return that accumulates moisture then freezes. Before I did the modification I removed the oil fill cap and found an amazing amount of pressure blowing out. I checked the PCV return line and it was clear. Now that it's modified the pressure coming out of the oil fill cap is negligible. When choosing a PCV valve size was obviously a concern, and the one I chose was compatible to other 4-cylinder engine applications. The engine operates as designed with no major concerns for vacuum variation. Cold start, and warm engine idle is actually about 50 rpm lower now; both in drive or park. At cruising speeds the engine also operates at a slightly lower rpm as well. No additional programming or remapping of the ECM was needed. I hope this answers your questions.
@@Frank4358 Did you find the orifice completely clogged with hard carbon build-up? Did you block off that orifice or leave it open when you made the change? Would you mind checking vacuum at the EVAP port while driving under varying conditions. Also monitor Fuel Trims as well. This would be extremely helpful to others considering the changes. I am seeing very low vacuum at cruise speed on highway and even lower, near 0 going up slight grades. I am wondering if this is normal for this engine design.
@@tssci6774 the orifice in the intake manifold was clogged. And as you could see in the video, the port on the manifold was clean and dry. I left it as is.
Unfortunately I do not have the means of checking vacuum while driving. All I can tell you is that the engine operates under normal parameters. Not quite sure why you feel the need to reprogram or remap the ECM?
Still need a catch can for vaporized oil droplets. Why not enlarge the original PVC hose hole at the airbox as an entrance ? Then, no need to remove the intake man. Are no crankcase fumes coming out of the original valve cover tube ?
There is a baffle between the oil cap and the cams. There is no need for a catch can. The return, or balance tube that connects to the air box is not a PCV. Enlarging the tube size does nothing, and can adversely affect engine performance. There are crankcase fumes and if you perform this modification it will draw them out of the rockercover area then safely burns them in the combustion chamber. The existing PCV orifice was not blocked off.
@@Frank4358 Is it not possible to enlarge the PCV hole in the intake assembly, as well, with a soldering iron with special attachment? Anyway, there is a video on UA-cam that shows how to install a catch can on a 2.4 Ecotec for oil vapors, to prevent intake valve coking, since the engine uses GDI. That breather fitting on the valve cover above cyl.#1 can't be a return ? If connected to the intake manifold this means vacuum is applied to it, no ? On my old Ford, there is the PCV valve to the carb, then another breather elbow to the airbox. Can't say there is a return. Please explain how enlarging the existing little hose dia. or opening is going to affect engine performance? Not being a pest, just curious.
@@seapeddler you're affecting the vacuum signal. They chose that orifice size for a reason. If you change the vacuum signal you can affect the engine performance. A PCV system is designed to remove pressure from the crankcase to prevent engine seals from getting blown out. The most significant seal would be the rear crankshaft seal. Secondly, in addition to relieving pressure it's also designed to remove harmful fuel vapors. The only safe way to remove the fuel vapors is to burn them in the combustion chamber. That's why the PCV port was placed at the base of the intake runner. And there must be a balance. That's why there is a vent tube from the cylinder head to the airbox.
@@Frank4358 Well, I saw a fellow UA-camr install a catch can onto the metered valve cover outlet with a larger dia. hose. There was no mention of lost vacuum signal. A brake booster vac hose or a small distributor vac hose will still measure the same vacuum as indicated on the gauge. But, anyway, I'm sure the little breather hose is a certain dia. for a reason. I'll not argue that point. You'd think there would be less fuel vapors with GDI as well. But if the right people want something to blow up, it will blow up. But it isn't like living near a volcano...that's for sure.
@@karatejoejr I can't see how that can work properly. These engines have a "sealed emissions system". Nothing is to be vented to the atmosphere. Doing it the way I've shown here maintains the integrity of the emissions system while properly evacuating pressure, fuel/oil fumes then safely burning them in the combustion chamber.
The wife’s 2011 terrain has 76k miles and we just recently started having oil consumption issues, did GM’s Test of 3 times being the vehicle in at 1000 miles first time 3/4 of a quart low, second 1.5 quarts low, told me it’s definitely burning oil and to bring it in at 800 miles to push it through, so I bring the car in at 810 miles for 3/4 of quart low for the service manager to say oh gm says that’s normal. Bout shit a brick and told him it was bullshit. Can’t wait to go up there with the invoices where they previously stated that it was low and not “normal”. Hate being lied to especially after a TSB and a class action law suit.
Their general response is, "everything is okay". They would not perform the TSB on my vehicle. But they were more than willing to charge me $300 to do the same procedure. That's what prompted me to come up with my own solution. Good luck.
Crack me up. I was looking on net & found a forum and most on there were saying pressure is suppose to come out of oil cap. I thinking What ?! But isn't there a easier way to fix this problem?
well i did your fix and so far it is not working. burns as much oil as before and i even put in new rings. my next step will be a new engine. but i will give it a month to allow the rings to seat just in case they are causing this. i will let you know. thanks for the possible fix it may work for others
Did you change your oil after doing the modification? I took my Equinox on a long trip on the highway. I also test my oil to see what's going on inside my engine. I found fuel dilution in the oil that I am still chasing. One theory is that the high-pressure fuel pump is leaking down after the engine is Off. Another theory is that the injectors are not shutting down with the engine Off. Difficult to diagnose, but could contribute to oil consumption from washing the rings.
@@Frank4358 , frank i overhauled the engine. new rings head and rod bearings. and of course new oil. 30w breaking oil. no difference at this time. also did you know you can't block off the original pvc vent? i installed a tapered screw kind of like a idle jet screw on the carbs and when i had that factory pvc blocked off i had more outbound pressure on that port that goes to the breather than with it open. so i had to open the about 1 1/2 turns and that port got to 15" vacuum and i took off the gage. at the same time the mod pvc i put my finger on the suction side and it had plenty of vacuum i did not bother to check it because you could tell it was sucking plenty .but as i said in the top comment the rings may not have yet seated. so i'm giving the rings a month or so and 1000 miles to seat. thanks
@@bobpalmer4740 if you read some of the comments you'll know that I did not block off the OEM PCV. Also, blow out the PCV return from the air box to the cylinder head. If that's clogged it will keep crankcase pressure. I used a air gun with my compressor to clean it out from the return tube. Then blew out the orifice at the cylinder head.
@@Frank4358 thanks frank i did that also the head was rebuilt so that is clean as new. thanks like i said i will run it for a bit and let you know how my trial went. i will not take it away as i do see it is doing something. at the least, it should keep the internals from sludging up. i may just have to many going on with the rings at this time but they should not be worse being new ar yours was being old and full of old oil. anyway thanks, and i will let you know in a month how it is going.
frank i think i now have a lean condition with this upgrade? ever since doing this she now has the engine at stops want to stall out at stops. what i'm going to do is take the pvc and clamp off the hose and let her see if that changed the stalling issue. if it did then i will open the clamp a bit at a time until the stalling stops and then it may be fine. your idea sounds good but if you do not have the lea engine then we have 2 different systems. she has no egr nor a iac module. so that may be the difference. thanks
Same brain dead engineers created a similar pcv orfice in my 2014 Chevy Cruze 1.4 turbo. But with what looks like a Holley carb rubber diaphragm. What a joke. I installed an outside pcv system on it. And had to replace the valve cover because it had a rubber diaphragm in it also. Just blows my mind the lack of how a pcv system should be simple, and a non common sense smart ass can screw up the design.
You should not have done that. You are putting the entire pvc burden on one cylinder. The factory pvc uses a shared vacuum location. You are causing one cylinder to suck all the pvc fumes and one cylinder will run lean.
Hello frank , what you did is zero engineering and does not do any thing to engine venting , if you take the valve cover off , you will see there is two secondary covers from inside of the valve cover and they are in certain shape and with some opening , you have no idea how the engine venting should be , by connecting your house to the oil filling cap you are shortening the path of the inlet air thru that little pipe on the left of the valve cover to go thru your added pipe instead to go down to the crankcase and get up from the other side of the cylinder head to the secondary cover and then to the intake thru PCV , best regards ..
@@Frank4358 its so much easy to fix the OE venting system which dose not have PCV valve , if you take of the intake manifold and open the section hole which will clogged with the slug , make the opining 5/23 ,thanks.
I will tell you this; Since this modification was done, I have not used any oil, at all. There were no check engine lights, and the fuel mileage was unaffected. The clacking noise you hear is emminating from the high-pressure fuel pump. Cold start/fast idle and IAC operation is working normally. Warm idle is about 700 - 750 rpm, and the engine operates at about 1500rpm at 45 - 55 mph. One more thing; I changed the transmission fluid with Amsoil synthetic. Transmission seems to shift smoother, and around town/highway fuel mileage increased from 16mpg city/22mpg highway, to 19 - 21mpg city/25 - 27mpg highway.
You can't use a vented cap or the engine controller will throw a code. All of the air going into the combustion chaimber is measured, and that includes what comes from the pcv.
A breather does not do what a PCV does. There is a breather return from the cylinder head to the airbox. The PCV evacuates crankcase pressure, but it also carries any hydrocarbons that are within the mix. Those hydrocarbons are sent back into the intake where it is mixed with the air and fuel being pulled into the combustion chamber to be re-burned. It's part of the emissions control system. By adding a sealed PCV (not vented to the atmosphere) you don't bypass the vehicles emissions system, and you pass state and federal emissions standards.
@@Frank4358 so if you don't have emissions like Indiana, you can just use a valve cover vent? I want to modify my oil cap and maybe run it into my header for some extra vacuum. I've done that on old school v8s but not sure if the system is the same on the ecotec platform.
@@8.2deck there's already a breather return from the cylinder head to the airbox. A breather is not a PCV valve. So regardless of the fact that your state has no emissions testing has nothing to do with what you suggested. You need an active PCV to extract pressure from the crankcase to prevent rear main seal failure, and prevent excess pressure from pushing past the rings causing oil consumption and engine damage.
@@Frank4358 okay i was kinda confused but now i see what's going on. I think i'll also run a catch can that way I'm not spraying oil on my valves and I'll be able to monitor it a little better.
@@8.2deck no need for a catch can if you follow my instructions. There is a baffle between the oil fill cap and rockers, valve springs and valve stems.
I own a 2016 Equinox with a 2.4L with just over 100,000 miles. I bought it new in 2016. Last deep freeze in December 2021 my PCV system plugged up and blew out the rear main seal dumping 5 quarts of oil instantly on the highway at 70 miles per hour. Of course the motor was destroyed in a matter of seconds. It bent valves, wrecked the timing chain, etc. I called my Chevy dealer and they said "Sorry your out of luck." , but yes there is a technical service bulletin out on this but you are out of warranty. My only choice was to dish out about $4000 on a junk yard motor and installation. This is a very common problem. I wish they would of at least had the decency to send me a letter letting me know about this issue so I could have easily prevented it. Since this happened to me a few weeks ago I found this car is on the list for many other issues including paper thin frame underneath which rots out in about 8 years, timing chain issues and a few more. I am afraid to drive it now so I traded it in on a Dodge Caravan. No more GM / Chevy for me.
😂😂😂😂😂so you bought dodge ....idiot
😅😅😅😅 replaced it with a dodge😅😅😅
That’s true tho especially the frame and all the bushings underneath with the suspension my 2005 makes all types of clunking loud noises when I hit tiny bumps i just ordered and received new struts, control arms tie rods and new sway bar links as soon as the weather cools down next month it’s all getting replaced. I just replaced the head gaskets had the heads machined the valve covers water pump and gaskets new belts new belt tensioner new egr valve new pcv valve and hose, this car has been a money pit I thought I got a great deal 2 years ago paying $800 I only put $3000 into it plus new tires to lol
@@millertime8835SERIOUSLY SUPERIOR PCV-CCV ON CHRYSLER PRODUCTS! Have had MANY GM AND DODGES!
And it doubles as an oil cap retainer! I ended up drilling a small hole in the front of the manifold, right where that little valve hole would be, from the outside of the manifold. jammed an opened up paper clip in there, found the hole and gave it a good wallerin out. I then sealed the hole I made in the front with a pan-head screw so I could get in there every other oil change or so to ram out the PCV valve. Seems to work pretty well.
GM should rename the car the Equi-Knock more truth needed in advertisement.......
Squeak's n Knox
😂 best comment so far on the piece of shit ecotec 2.4
I have 1 too
Thank you, Brother. My single-parent Sister, has this Equinox, 2013. I just bought 2 pcv valves and told her to have it replaced every 18 months ( clean and hold on to old part ).
You're very welcome!
Ferndog1461. There is no valve, so what are you buying.
@TS SCI if you watched the video, you'd know that I modified the intake plenum to use an external PCV (Part# PCV352) available at AdvanceAutoParts.
@@Frank4358 I was talking to the other fella that said he bought two valves for his sisters car. Probably is referring to the PCV tube, which people often believe has a valve. I watched your video, both versions. I never said you did not have a PCV valve.
@@tssci6774 you really did not watch the video!
Guys i just rebuilt my Chevy equinox engine, when i replaced my pistons i bought the upgraded pistons with a better oil ring gap, also I drilled holes in the seats of the oil rings and filed them smooth as butter before I put the oil rings in. Refer to Jasper engines video on UA-cam to verify this
Just bought a '13. Haven't even seen it yet. Had my brother-in-law check it out.
I'm okay with replacing rings if oil consumption is more than I like. Just saw you replaced pistons also. Did you notice much difference from the old ones to the new ones?
Thank you!
Nice video, thank you for your patience. It is very well possible there are throttle body spacers with vacuum ports that would be a bit more reliable and mechanically sturdier for the 2.4l motor. I ended up using a throttle-body spacer as a vacuum source for my catch can on my 2019 Equnox 2.0t LTG.
Where did you get a spacer?
Hi Frank, very cool mod. Can't argue with success. As long as it works. Sad you have to fix GM's design flaws.
Sad, but true. But that's how hot rodding got its start! Keep the legacy alive!
Ty for taking the time to post this, a true hero.
Good video Frank. Thank you. It’s really sad GM hasn’t recalled this motor and addressed the piston ring issue which causes all of the problems.
Mweink law suit forced them to recall & fix. Friend had their motor rebuilt with new pistons, rings timing etc
Wondering Why I’ve only heard of the lawsuit pertaining to the reimbursement of repairs made within 7.5 years manufacture or 120,000 miles. Any additional information would be greatly appreciated. My gf just bought her 2012 Equinox with the 2.4 in late 2019 and was completely unaware of the issue until it became an issue. Unfortunately she just missed the 7.5 year cut off but is under 120k in mileage. It pisses me off a dealership would put a vehicle like this on the lot most likely knowing the condition was present.
@@MRW21783 bummer & BS on dealership ! I bought a car. Long story but there was no way they didn't know! On my Honda ! Absolutely impossible for them not to know. I go to the Honda dealership and they want $120+ to look at it. I go on line, and all kinds of complaints & information on the issue !
I am an old guy, (not techy I am saying) but we were successful with a cure that was helping my friends vehicle for one year ( since Mar '19) before they had the rebuild done for no charge. It may help your gf vehicle. If interested LMK. We can talk. I don't want to post on here, too much to type, too much time. Vehicle has several issues also. I have Q's on which of the issues you guys have.. I don't want to post my phone # either though.
Wondering Why her 2.4 has the piston ring issue which causes very excessive oil consumption (weekly adding) and which causes oil being sucked into the air intake and throttle body. It’s just a ticking time bomb and will eventually be a $8000 dollar paper weight unless rebuilt.
@@MRW21783 here's what we did. People will give negative comments but it worked for us, after we were given two oral guesstimates of a $4,500. to $5,000. Rebuild. Rings and Valve timing actuator valve are oil related. Varnish & build up is a problem in engines, especially in the ones we are discussing. We tried several things than switched to Amsoil's top oil, Signature Series, (I was reluctant because I was paying for it) and Amsoil micro oil filter. I had been putting some fuel cleaner in it before but now went with Amsoil's PI fuel additive And I saw they had a new product, a upper cylinder lube, and we decided to try it.
Then 🙏. I kept calling Cy, vehicle owner, asking how it was going. 1 day later. 2 days, 3 days Response was positive each time. It coded once for VTiming but did not stall out like it normally would. It started to stall out once with no code two days later. We kept using the additives every fill up. PI is to use twice in beginning then every 4 000 miles but we used it for next 8 fill ups hoping it may help, then every 3rd fill up. Use upper cylinder lube every fill up. It was a shot in the dark but a year later it was still running good and not using oil like before.
I installed an oil catch can in line between the valve cover and air-box (in the area shown at 7:02). There is a nice empty spot on the radiator support next to the air filter, making it very convenient to empty the can. I think this is a better solution since the catch can filters out any contaminants from getting sucked back into your engine through the throttle body.
This will not decrease crankcase pressure, or reduce/eliminate oil usage.
@@Frank4358 Well the pressure issue (that caused blown main seals) was from the PCV hole in the intake getting completely blocked by frozen liquid. Eliminating liquids from getting pulled back into the intake using a catch will resolve that issue. What you did will also keep that tiny hole from getting blocked, but a catch can will do the same without modification other than mounting the can.
As far as the oil consumption issue. That was completely separate from the PCV system and was specific to the 2.4L Ecotec of the 2010-2011 year models and starting in 2012 with the LEA version of this engine the excessive oil consumption was resolved.
@@cswann8 there's a TSB that covers 2010 - 2015 regarding blocked PCV and oil consumption. The PCV was getting clogged, as well as the breather return from the cylinder head to the air box. Simply using a catch can at the breather side will not relieve crankcase pressure.
How is your setup working, updates? I would think a CC would relieve pressure and keep crap from entering the upper intake box, plenum and eventually making it's way into the throttle body. It's definitely better than the OEM PCV hard line that gets clogged. ua-cam.com/video/H5bUBfa7JEI/v-deo.html
@@350Zquicksilver My Terrain is running like a Swiss watch and the catch can really does a good job of making sure the top half of the PCV system gives clean air to my intake. In warm weather I don't mess with it much, but in winter I have to keep a close eye on the can and empty it often.
Thanks for posting.
I serviced mine today (2013 Equinox 2.4L). Orifice hole was completely blocked. Engine was not consuming oil - I guess I am lucky.
I did not add the PCV upgrade, but followed the GM service bulletin - cleaned orifice and drilled a slightly larger hole.
I did not need to remove secondary fuel pump - just the fuel line and metal bracket.
I managed to remove manifold down and past the protruding fuel pipe on the pump.
Put back together and have vacuum again. Also, my electrical connectors came off pretty easy - none broke fortunately.
Will check vacuum on subsequent oil changes to see if hole gets plugged again.
How bigger was the whole you made
@@karatejoejr I matched the size of existing hole with a drill bit, then used the next larger size in my kit (about 1/32 larger).
@@mjkirk12 Thank you
Still running ok
@@rondavis2791 Yes, still runs OK. Not burning oil. I pull the PCV tube when I change oil and still feel a vacuum - so the orifice hole is not blocked. :-)
I own a 2012 Equinox with this engine, and I need to point out 2 things. 1. Years ago, cars had a small filter just inside the PCV connection to the air intake which stopped oil from getting into the incoming air but allowed the crankcase gases in to be burned for emissions control. I'm not sure how you'd add this to the 2.4L, but I think it would be easier. 2. The engine in this video sounds like it's low on oil. Based on my experience (210,000 miles), the engine should run MUCH quieter than that with a proper oil level. When this engine gets down to 2 quarts (that's 3 quarts low), it will knock, and only adding oil will fix it. As for PCV pressure, this engine has 11.2 to 1 compression (high for gasoline), which means the combustion gases will have substantial pressure both at the exhaust valves and in the crankcase. If you suspect an oil leak, check the seal around the oil pan, and the oil drain plug. The factory oil pan seal is not a gasket, but a sealant. This can develop leaks.
The filter you speak of was a foam filter that was installed inside the air cleaner assembly.
There's a baffle under the oil cap that deflects oil away from the PCV, so there's no oil transfer.
The engine had a full compliment of oil -- it was not low. And the "noise" you hear was from the high-pressure fuel pump. A noise that's considered normal by General Motors. It was confirmed using
A stethoscope.
im doing the modification today.. thanks frank..
Remember to start small drilling for the manifold fitting. The composite is very brittle.
I took the premise of what you did here but made it (in my opinion easier and more serviceable) i used the same oil cap and pcv valve as you but instead of removing the intake manifold i tapped into the brake booster hose with a tee and ran that to a catch can . So i went from the pcv valve in the oil cap into a catch can then out of the catch can into the booster line with a tee. No intake removal necessary and while the catch can increased the price by 27$ it was far less work and now i can monitor what is coming out of the engine. The whole process took me 45 min . The hardest part was mounting the can
GIno if you take a look at the other GM vehicles using the Ecotec engine, they do the same, tapping into the brake booster port. Looks they may use a check valve.
Do you have an instructional video
@@tbandtg no but everything you need to know about it is in my message here. Buy a catch can and the parts listed above it's really easy.
Is that what that black nipple built into the manifold was, the brake booster connection?
@@abefroman1986 can u explain again in detail im at a 3rd grade level thx
I am grateful.Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge!
You're very welcome!
Wow yours makes alot of rattle noises like ours after it ran low on oil, it can be the aux fuel pressure pump and it can also be the timing guides and tensioners. Great idea for the pcv valve though
Yep the timing belt stretches and the guides and tensioner are weak
If you ran low on oil it’s a safe bet the timing chain stretched
So im in process of doing this. How does this get rif of the oil consumption? If it was sucking oil through pcv orifice in intake wouldnt it just push oil through the new pcv valve and into the intake and still burn it? Also i am removing my vented oil cap is there a possibility of using this method and it builds up pressure and blows out rear main seal? Or is that not possible with the pcv valve in the oil cap?
The alternate PCV draws the pressure out of the engine into the plenum and then burns the fumes harmlessly in the combustion chamber. If you remove the oil cap you will see a baffle under the cap that prevents oil splashing back on the PCV. The reduced crankcase pressure alleviates the blowby, thereby eliminating the oil consumption. After performing this modification on my engine, all oil consumption stopped.
Can I achieve the same results by drilling the pvc hole bigger with a 1/8 drill bit.
Good Idea but if i may Say two Things one the hose connected to the manifold is your vacuum hose. instead of drilling a new hole in the intake just cut the vacuum line and put in a tee fitting to run your hose from it also you would want to put a catch can system in line with the vacuum hose and oil cap thus to catch any water vapor or oil vapor before it goes right into your intake which is bad on GDi engines since the oil will build up on the valves because direct injection dose not spray fuel over vales like a convention fuel rail dose making it build carbon on the valves causing problems. You should also add a catch in between the original pvc system for this same reason.
We considered that, but that line goes to the brake power booster. There's always a possibility of contaminating the booster. This configuration does not require any catch can, and the vapors from the engine are harmlessly burned in the combustion chamber. I've been running the engine like this for over three years now. No combustion problems, no engine codes, and no oil usage.
I feel like having the pcv draw from the oil cap would draw more oil into the intake system and foul the pistons and burn more oil. Oil is being flung around by the camshaft. What are your thoughts?
There is a baffle between the oil cap and cam, so there is no more oil draw than from a conventional PCV.
Big like for the video !
Awesome improvement, sir !
Thank you!
Solution I found was a ventilated oil screw cap. ACDelco Oil Filler Cap FC219. Says that it won't fit on an Equinox however many posts said that it will indeed fit on the oil fill. I also have a 2007 Pontiac G6 and it fits this also.
But it really does not work.
A vented cap allows release of pressure build up so why exactly wouldn't work? Obviously venting through the pcv is best but if it did get blocked with gunk or freezing a release of pressure would be preferred over blowing out a seal.
If it throws a code I will go back to original oil fill cap. I will then drill a small clean out hole from the outside of the intake and seal it with a machine screw. Cleaning it out with wire or paper clip when I do an oil change. Alot easier then removing the intake. Even if I need to clean it more often not a problem. I already check weekly for oil level. Just another quick check. A few good videos out there on how drill the hole including putting dielectric on the drill bit so the plastic shavings stick to the bit. There is always more than one way.
@catherineandjimleclaire9034 but it still doesn't work. It's simply a temporary repair . Drilling out the PCV orifice changes the vacuum signal. You will be chasing this problem forever. My solution is permanent.
I had this issue. Main seal blew out. The worst part is that I heard the engine noise well before that low oil pressure light came on. So its really two issues. The 2nd one being that GM's low oil pressure warning is a joke.
Hi Frank, Do you drive it in Eco Mode or with it turned off? Is one better then the other to aid with the said issues?
I did drive in ECO mode, but it makes no difference in the crankcase pressure.
Sure would like to know where GM is getting its engineers. That design is even worse than the one that was used on the LD9 quad 4. That one at least never clogged up. Can't understand why they wouldn't use a traditional PCV system that's been around since 1963.
Probably because it would add $0.05/engine.
GM gets most of it's Engineers from the University of Michigan book and math smart but many, have no basic mechanical aptitude or idea how parts are manufactured.. I worked in Ann Arbor for years as an Engineer with a BS in manufacturing technology from Wayne State University and ran circles around those U of M nerds. I worked for an OEM GM supplier later on, and GM had poor designs that were hard to manufacture yet they wanted cheap prices and they rarely listened to suppliers about simpler better designs. GM is all about paying cheap prices on complicated designs which is why the mostly suck.
@@robc8468 when you consider the idiot that is running General Motors, Mary Berra, who doesn't have a clue like most of GM's management it isn't hard to figure out what the problem is. I think between the two of us we could design and engineer far better cars than GM is doing at current.
@@thomasbradley512 Berra started as an elecrical engineer with the Pontiac Fiero program. Among other things the Fiero is known for having electrical problems. GM executives are rarely promoted for doing good cars it is based mostly on poltics and shaving pennies out of the end product. Once in a great while GM makes a decent car or truck almost by mistake.
@@Frank4358 You are not far off the irony is GM could design 2 or 3 pvc valves for its entire engine lineup and get economy of scale but due to the many fiefdoms within each engine design group will design a one off pvc system then purchasing will try to beat pennies out of the supplier for a relatively low volume. Working for a GM supplier we usually were barely above break even on most GM work the only real profit money made was on pickup trucks due to volume.
HI, Frank I had been looking for a video like yours. I have Terrain same problem
I need to know what size is the hole at the manifold, I don't see on any of the comments
Thanks
@@reinaldofranco542 1/4NPT. But start with a pilot hole and go slow.
@@Frank4358 thanks a lot
Hi Frank like your video was wondering what oil cap you used to put a pcv valve in? did you run a vaccum line for the fitting you put in the intake?
Hi Frank,
would you be able to tell me the specific hose and elbow parts that you used in this video? Do I need to put a PCV valve on the oil cap and intake?
Is there a email address I can contact you on? Jnavarra4@hotmail.com
@@sophianavarra877 any questions can be posted here.
What oil cap did you use?
Why is this model not on engine recall! I own one,can of worms on problems. Seems so common issues
Thank You!!! that is a GREAT IDEA!!!
This video was edited to a HD 1080P for easier viewing.
Can this fix a missifre issue
I tried to get that oil cap twice from 2 different vendors. They keep substituting with a flat gates or flat motorad that’s low profile can’t use with the cover. What part number should I try?
10099 Car Quest. Order online at Advance Auto Parts
@@Frank4358 according to the picture Advanced is substituting with the motorad flat cap. I tried it anyways. It’s a little tight for your hands, but it clears the engine cover. That’s the important part. I did find one eventually on eBay. Thanks again for the help.
if the car having white cloud from exhaust is it impact from pcv ?, my chevrolet captiva having white cloud from exhaust, need help for this... thank you
When are you seeing the white cloud? Is it a dense cloud or a whisp of a white cloud?
Have you checked your oil level? Is it low, or does it look like chocolate milk?
Have you looked at the coolant level? Is it low? Does it look like chocolate milk?
oil level decrease and exhaust white smoke
@@kampoeng2227 now answer the rest of my questions
@@Frank4358 already checked oil level and it is decrease not like chocolate milk, when start the engine and waiting until 1 hour it still white smoke from exhaust
@kampoeng 22 how dense is the white cloud? Since it's still there after an hour (not sure why you're letting it idle for that long) it sounds like the PCV could be clogged, or your rings are getting loose and allowing blowby. Or it's a combination of the two. There's a PCV return vent at the cylinder head. I would use air pressure to open it up. The breather tube to the air plenum could be clogged, so remove it, then blow air pressure through it to clean out any clogs. If you still have white smoke, add some Lucas oil additive. It should help to seal the rings better -- if only temporarily -- but it will help to diagnose the problem.
So many comments.. difficult to follow along as to the actual modification and parts used. I have buick lacrosse same issue needing pcv repair. Where do i collect these parts
Thnx
Frank the one problem I can see with modification you seemed to have tapped into one of the intake runners going to cylinder 4 . This means all your PCV gas are going one cylinder and not distributed evenly to all cylinders. Bad idea. Causing one cylinder to run lean or even miss, now you have another problem. How big is the PCV valve are you using, you don’t say. Valves and the flow rates are built into the air/ fuel calculation designed by the engineers. Messing with will bring on the Check engine light. Before you just start drilling holes in your intake you should find out how the engine works and the consequences of making shade tree modifications are.
The fitting is placed at the bottom of the runner, so it doesn't affect vacuum signal to the cylinder. There is no check engine light that's been illuminated. Not when it was installed, and none to this day. I haven't had any "lean" conditions on any one cylinder associated with this modification. Your fears are unfounded. If you want to research the PCV dimensions, etc., the part number is listed so research away. The only thing that's changed is that I no longer use any oil. The level remains at the full level, and I have changed the oil more than a few times. I sample my oil, and the oil is more stable now, maintaining adequate viscosity.
You are correct. This hack will work but just buying time. The original design is a good concept but the way they did the design is terrible.
Did something similar but ran the hose to under the throttle body, didn’t have to remove the intake doing it this way & works good.
How did you do it
Can you send some info
Why not just connect the new line to the stem on the valve cover instead of drilling the oil cap?
You draw vacuum from the the engine (the oil cap), while the return line -- besides being too small in diameter -- is a return vent. So it won't work.
Not really knowledgeable on cars but What vacuum port piece did you use at the bottom of the manifold?
3/8 brass elbow. NPT. You can get it at any hardware store.
Hi Frank. What were your symptoms prior to the fix? I am experiencing blowby and there is no vacuum at the pcv tube but there is air flowing out of it. Is that normal? I just bought it so I don't know if it's consuming oil.
I was experiencing a loud clacking noise on cold start, and experiencing oil usage. I changed the oil and filter to get a baseline of information. I also have my oil tested to check for internal problems. What I found was severe fuel dilution. I took it to a friend's shop to get his opinion. He removed the oil cap and found pressure from the crankcase.
Chevrolet's solution was to remove the intake manifold then clean out 1/8" hole that they call a PCV. They also recommended cleaning out the breather tube that goes from the cylinder head to the airbox. I also used an air nozzle to check if the orifice tube at the head was blocked: it was.
My modification stopped the oil usage, and I now have a fully operational PCV system.
@@Frank4358 Thanks Frank. So just to get oriented. It's normal to feel air flowing from the tube that we remove from the air box, not suction? Also now that you have made your modification do you no longer feel air blowing out your oil cap hole?
@@mikedenney1568 there should be air flowing from the breather tube. Still feeling some pressure, but nowhere near what it was.
@@Frank4358 I really appreciate you taking the time. You've been a lot of help. I think I'll do a leak down test in addition to cleaning intake manifold. Thanks
Frank check this youtube video out. This guy is getting a vacuum at the manifold port. It's at the 4 minute mark ua-cam.com/video/hTrfqh88660/v-deo.html
I am asking around everywhere, I know that multiple forums and people are recommending to use di-electric grease on the intake seals... but I have also read that silicone products are bad for O2 sensors... Is di-electric grease O2 sensor safe? Are people just getting confused between Silica and Silicone?
I am asking since my O2 sensor failed right after this intake manifold job, and I used di-electric grease. The first time I did the job, I used Vaseline, which seemed to work just fine.
Just adding dielectric grease on the intake seals is not going to affect the O2 sensors. It's such a small amount on the edge of the seals. Just don't pack it on like you're greasing a wheel bearing.
I used dielectric grease on my intake seals with no adverse problems.
@@Frank4358 Thanks for the info :)
I know this has been out for a while but, could you just modify the oil cap and route the relief hose into the air box just after the filter? There would be virtually no disassembly required; just mods to the air box and oil cap. Just looking for a simplier way without removing the intake.
No. That will not do anything useful. The way it's set up it's drawing a vacuum and relieving the crankcase pressure. The vapors are being drawn into the combustion chamber and burned off.
Doing it the way you suggest does none of that.
i`m curious about oil cap mod video does not show this show cap but not how it`s done where did you get cap
Cap was purchased at Advance Auto Parts. Part Number # 10099. This cap has a flat top. It was spot faced then milled 0.750" with an end mill on a Bridgeport.
Hey Frank I saw your comment on Facebook that said you stopped using oil after doing this. How does that work? Is that still the case?
Yes. All oil usage ceased after the modification was completed.
@@Frank4358 that’s great. But how? What’s the explanation
@MerkoniumJones reduced crankcase pressure. When the pressure within the engine has no way to be relieved, the pressure finds the path of least resistance: through the rear main seal and passing by the low-tension rings. With an active PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation), no pressure builds up.
Im currently working on a 2013 equinox 2.4 liter with a vaccuum noise unless oil fill cap is removed. Cleaned intake and PCV hose to air box. Also replaced valve cover. Had to drill a small 1/8 hole in oil fill cap. Did yours make a noise before you did this added port to the intake. Its definitly vaccuum and not crank pressure.
So when you take off the oil cap do you get pressure (a pulsation) from inside the rocker cover?
And when you cleaned out the line from the head to the air box did you use any airpressure to check if there was a blockage?
@Duane B. Your fresh air circuit between the crankcase and air plenum is blocked, you are hearing high vacuum in the crankcase from the orifice. I hope you did not drill out the orifice.
Duane, after your oil cap drill out, did you notice again leaks from the cap or did it keep the pressure lowwer?
Frank , Marty again, do you know if GM upgraded the pcv system in a 2016 2.4 Eqinox?? Thanks
Not sure. But GM is known to be cheap about upgrades, so I am leaning toward, no.
Frank, I'll try to investigate on a GM upgrade, if I find one I'll repost to you , thanks!!
Very good video, but just curious, why couldn't you just cut the existing line and splice the line running from the existing valve into the new line running from the oil cap, through a collection can and then back into the existing line feeding the intake? This would remove the water/oil from both PCV valves using a common collector can.
I am buying a 12 Equinox and this is how I would like to do it, because I feel the oil cap PCV will not fail as easily as the factory one. I just was curious if there is a reason you can think of that this method wouldn't work? This whole process would take under an hour to complete and I would think it would do the same thing. I saw on another video where someone spliced a can into the existing line, but you are still relying on that tiny hole on the PCV end not plugging for whatever reason, so I feel 2 PCV valves is the way to go.
The OEM PCV is a tiny, 1/8" orifice in the middle of the intake plenum.
No way to splice in.
By installing a fitting at the bottom of the intake runner you don't upset the vacuum signal to the cylinder head.
If you splice into power brake vacuum line you run the risk of contaminating the power booster with atomized oil.
The oil cap I used was a Stant oil cap. Stant is the OE supplier to GM. So there's no fear of a cap failure. I used a Bridgeport vertical milling machine to spot face the replacement cap. Then I centered the cap and drilled a 0.750" hole to accept the grommet for the PCV valve. I coated the machined surface with dielectric grease before installing the grommet. Then I added a small amount of dielectric grease to the PCV before inserting it into the grommet.
There is a baffle between the rocker arms and cam to prevent splatter into the PCV.
I would also recommend a dollop of RTV around the fitting you install in the intake runner.
Thanks Frank your awesome...
I wouldn't go that far. Just good old common sense is all.
Thanks for the video
Hi, what oil cap did you use? I want to get one like it. I understand it has to be modified.
I got it at Advance Auto Parts. Carquest 10099
Where does the orifice that gets clogged lead to? Does it go to the hose on the exterior of the manifold?
No. The orifice is inside the intake plenum, and mates to an opening at the cylinder head.
The hose on the exterior of the manifold is attached to the fitting added to the intake runner to accommodate the auxiliary PCV valve.
CATCH CAN stops bad fluids entering your pvc. Easy hook up and cheap
Yet not a solution. You have to constantly drain the catch can, and it does nothing to relieve crankcase pressure
how is it working so far? I unclogged my pcv with a 1/16 drill bit but I am afraid it will clog again in a few weeks, so I am interested in doing this.
Since I've done this I have stopped using oil. And my modification is working perfectly.
Remember to unclog the return line from the cylinder head to the airbox. I used air pressure.
IS IT POSSIBLE TO MODIFY THE INTAKE WITH OUT REMOVING
No. The position of the fitting makes it impossible to do it with the intake plenum installed.
Couldn’t you make the small hole bigger? Isn’t that essentially what is being done?
No. You couldn't enlarge the hole enough, so it would not clog at a later date.
Will this stop the oil consumption problem in these engines? If so what fittings and oil cap exactly did you use?
How bad of an oil consumption problem?
I was using 1 quart about every 700 to 1000 miles. To date, I haven't used any oil. Just checked it last week.
Dorman 42330 grommet
Intermotor/SMP PCV352
Oil Cap 10099 Carquest
3/8" 90° Brass Fitting
I’m a mechanic and I work on them stupid cars every day.
I would say like every 3 to 4 weeks one of them cars come in low on oil and the oil is dark black and jumped timing.
I like them but because I don’t own one I never really care for them. my brother is buying one next week.
Even tho I told him and warned him about all the common problems he still wants it.
So now I’m stuck looking around for ways to keep the stupid thing running so he don’t bother me to much with it.
Can this be done on a 2012 GMC Terrain 2.4L. Having major oil consumption issues at 85k miles. I’m aware of the GM class action lawsuit regarding faulty piston rings.
4 cylinder
Yes. Same engine configuration.
That engine sounds terribly loud for a hydraulic lifter engine, I predict you next major issue will be valve train or timing chain repairs.
Nature of the beast. Variable valve timing is the culprit.
@@Frank4358 My 3.6l Pentastar Dodge Journey with 120,000 miles is so silent my wife left it running overnight it has variable valve timing but almost no noise.
That is A GDI Gasoline Direct Injection The Boise you are hearing is the Fuel Injectors this system has a high pressure fuel pump like a diesel.
Great video. A parts list for what you added would be wonderful.
Parts list is in the comments.
@@Frank4358 Sorry Frank, i think i'm part retarded (youtube retarded). I can't find the parts list. There's like a bunch of comments including this one? Am i looking for the list in the right place? I think your idea is genius and would like to do the same to my equinox.
@@ronaldtrudeau5722
The Grommet is a Dorman PN# 42330
PCV is a INTERMOTOR, SMP, PN# PCV352.
I bought them at Advance Auto Parts
Oil cap is a Stant/Carquest PN# 10099
You need to spot face the top of the cap then drill a 0.750" hole at the center of the cap.
Grommet is a Dorman PN# 42330
PCV is a INTERMOTOR, SMP, PN# PCV352.
I bought them at Advance Auto Parts
Oil cap is a Carquest/Stant PN# 10099
You'll need to drill a 0.750" hole to make everything work.
@@Frank4358 cant find that pcv 352
Is there any kind of addictive to help clean things out?
What are you cleaning? The crankcase?
Great video Frank. Thank you. Any thoughts on using existing vacuum ports on the intake and attaching a T fitting to avoid having to remove? Also, what's you opinion on putting a catch can between the PCV valve and the oil fill cap? In other words attach hose to oil fill cap with open fitting, then to catch can to remove oil vapor, then install the PCV to in the outlet hose of the catch can between the catch can and intake?
The whole idea is to take the oil and vapors from the engine, and return them to the combustion chamber to be burned off.
If you add a catch can between the PCV and the intake manifold you defeat the emissions system.
As far as adding a T-fitting to an existing vacuum line, I've discussed that in a previous comment, but here it is, again;
The only line that is large enough is the vacuum assist for the power booster. If you introduce any oil in that line you run the risk of contaminating the power booster which could eventually cause a brake failure.
@@Frank4358 Thank you for the reply Frank. By catching the oil vapors and condensing them in a can it is effectively not defeating the emissions as the vapors are not being vented to the atmosphere and the additional benefit of not reintroducing oil vapors to the intake. Maybe using the brake booster vacuum line with a catch can can work? Thanks and take care.
One last question Frank and I do appreciate your replies. Isn't the brake booster line constantly under vacuum so even if a oil catch can isn't used, there wouldn't be any vapors going to the booster?
@@Vance005 vacuum varies based on throttle opening and engine rpm. So at certain times during the drive cycle the vacuum signal can be as low as 0 and as high as 20-inches of vacuum. There is always the possibility of oil contamination in the vacuum line.
@@Frank4358 you simply dont know how the brake booster works. It runs on vacuum, one way from the booster to the intake. It also has a one way valve to prevent air or vapor from entering the booster. Running for over a year, no issues. Putting a catch can on that line will collect a large amount of oil and pass the vapor. I have collected over a quart of oil in the past 15k miles. If your not using a high efficient baffle and filter media you will be sucking in a huge amount of oil. By putting the fitting where you did, most of that oil will be sucked into the runners of #3 and #4 cylinders. Using the brake booster port centrally located it will be dispersed to all intake runners equally. Also not blocking off the internal orifice you fefeat performance and function of the PCV valve. I used a custom, adjustible PCV valve, blocked the port, installed catch can, and tapped the brake booster hose. I get a constant .1 inHg a vacuum in the crankcase at all engine loads which is more than enough to ventilate the crankcase.
Can't you install this without removing intake because didn't show blocking old pcv port . Thanks, Marty
No. You must remove the intake to properly position the new PCV port.
@@Frank4358 thanks
couldn't you simply change the oil filling cap with a venting one?
No. To do so violates federal emissions laws. The emissions controls are considered a closed system.
@@Frank4358 we have no emissions testing here but all i asked was could you? meaning would it circumvent the problem?
@medionlvr not really
Just venting takes whatever it sees at the vent. A true PCV system draws the pressure out and then distributes the vapors to the combustion chamber, where they are burned off.
Hey Frank . Where did you get the oil cap. I can not seem to find it ? many thanks .
Carquest 10099. It's actually a Stant Cap, and you will need to modify it to accept the PCV.
I purchased it at Advance Auto Parts
So I did this to my 2011 Chevy equinox it seems to be working good except I have a squealing or squeaking noise. Do you know what this is from? If I take the oil cap off while it’s running the squeaking noise goes away please let me know as soon as possible what this problem could be.
Where did you add the vacuum line?
Did you clear out the PCV return line to the air box?
@@Frank4358 on the same place u put yours
@@jasonrhodes9455 but did you clean out the PCV return line from the cylinder head to the air box? And be sure to use pressurized air on the cylinder head port.
@@Frank4358 yes I did and I also stuck on a catch can .
For my 06 Chrysler 300c 5.7 I bought I vented oil cap. Kinda pricey at $79 bucks but if it worked it would save alot of headache
It also, doesn't meet federal emissions system standards.
Thanks Frank. But what the heck was that loud ticking at idle when you started it up? Timing chain? Sounds horrible. BUT , THIS WAS 3 YEARS AGO. PLEASE RESPOND TO THIS. ID LIKE TO KNOW IF THE ENGINE STILL RUNS.
MY MOTHER BOUGHT A 2012 GMC. SAME MOTOR, SAME NOISE. IM ASKING ON HER BEHALF.
thanks man. I hope to hear back from you
It's actually the high pressure fuel pump!
I put a stethoscope on the engine and that noise is not associated with the timing chain.
Checked with some automotive technician friends and they told me it's a "normal" condition!
Thanks a lot. My mom was happy to hear that. Good man
4:14 What's the hole in the manifold?
2013 chevy eqinox 2.4 engine
we have a vehicle came in for master cylinder leaking, remove master cylinder and found brake fluid in booster, replaced both with reman, after bleeding brakes, start engine, runs good at idle, touch gas pedal and engine sucks brake fluid in itself. cleaned engine , replaced booster and master cylinder with new parts, did same thing. left fluid out of master cylinder and you can feel alot of suction on top of master cyl cap.
does not have secondary vacuum pump. passes on compression test all within 10 lbs, looses some on leak down test.
removed vale covers and looked at cams, used ratchet and turned cams, timing chains seams loosewhen you turn , goes back afet you let off...
What is causing this much vacuum?
never seen this , i have contacted multiple dealerships and no luck, they have never seen this
did you try a one way valve inline?
So for suck a late response but did you ever find out what was going on. How did it suck that
b/f into itself through a T in The B,booster line that's vacuum. I mean had to be a master cylinder right. Pulling bf in over the piston
.???
Is it possible to take the Manifold off and drill the Pcv Hole Bigger to Fix the Problem? 🤔
Not a good idea as it would change the vacuum signal and that could affect performance.
@@Frank4358 Wouldn't adding a 3/8 Port like in your Video do the same? 🤔
@@dognamedchevyroberts3213 No. That tiny orifice was designed for a specific vacuum signal. So modifying that orifice changes the characteristics.
Adding a vacuum port at the bottom of the runner doesn't change the vacuum signal to the engine.
@@Frank4358 I just Contacted GM & Asked them the same Question. They advised me that it is Ok to use a 1/8 drill bit to Drill the Stock manifold Pcv Hole out and the Problem will be Fixed. They said that doing so will NOT affect the Performance of the Vehicle at all. They said to make sure that after you drill out the Stock Pcv Hole to 1/8 to be sure to blow it out to ensure there isn't any plastic shavings in the Manifold before Re-Installing. Just wanted to share the Info with you that I Received Straight from GM.
@@dognamedchevyroberts3213 you're not increasing the orifice size, merely opening the clogged orifice.
Hi frank how did you get the plastic shaving out of the manifold
Also Frank what size hose did you use. Was it 1/2 or 3/8 thank you
I have an air compressor. I blew out the intake until I felt confident all of the shavings were removed.
@@karatejoejr standard PCV hose diameter is 3/8". That's what I used.
@@Frank4358 Thank you so much for your help 🙏
ow that's a clean engine bay .
Hi Frank I can't find the intermotor pcv352 is there any alternative
Advance Auto Parts has them in stock.
Thank you Frank I really appreciate it. I have everything but the PCV. Thank you
advance no longer has this pcv,or a cross reference,what vehicle was it purchased for?
I enjoyed your video. Is it necessary to remove the intake manifold to clean the 1/8 inch hole or can I just do the modification to the manifold and connect it to the oil cap
To make the modification to the intake manifold it will be necessary to remove it from the cylinder head.
Be sure to place a bead of RTV around the base of the fitting once it's installed.
And it will be easier to install the PCV hose to the fitting before installing the intake back to the cylinder head.
And you will need to modify the Stant oil cap to accept the PCV valve and grommet.
@@Frank4358 would it do any harm if I dont remove it but I still do the modification?
@@jogon5770 not sure how you would do it. There really is no room to get to the manifold. Remember, the fitting must be installed on the bottom of the runner.
Take the time, remove the intake then install it properly.
@@Frank4358 I think if attempted in the car it might leed to pecies getting in the intake and in the engine??
@@835YT please clarify your statement. What pieces?
5:49.. Is that a hole in your valve cover? How did that happen?
Where do you see a hole?
@@Frank4358 5:45-5:50... right top of screen.... near the valve cover bolt... to thre right..... toward rear of cover....☝️
Could be dirt... looks like a hole though
@@boosted2.4_sky what you're seeing is where a valve cover bolt was removed. No hole in the valve cover.
It's a big ass hole in the intake
Hi Frank, what about adding a throttle plate spacer with a vacuum port instead of having to pull the intake manifold, would that work? You still haven't burned any oil? Great fix that you came up with which is a permanent fix. Thanks much!
No. That would change the vacuum signal and change engine performance
@@Frank4358 Hi Frank, Apparently they don't sell the INTERMOTOR, SMP, PN# PCV352, i can't even find it online. Do you know another PCV that will work with that engine and grommet size? I already bought the grommet and drilled out the cap. I bough a PCV (PCA1002) that I thought was compatible but it appears too large in diameter. Any help would be appreciated, as I am not sure how to size these valves. Thank you!
@revivessc_curryprodz amazon.com it's a Beck/Arnley part
@@Frank4358 Hi Frank, the link you provided just goes to Amazons home page. Not sure what Beck/Arnley PCV as there are many.
@revivessc_curryprodz I didn't give you a link. Go to Amazon, then type PCV352 in the search bar.
Do you have a part number for the pcv valve you installed on the cap? Or what it was off of?
Grommet is a Dorman PN# 42330
PCV is a INTERMOTOR, SMP, PN# PCV352.
I bought them at Advance Auto Parts
Oil cap is a Carquest PN# 10099
You'll need to drill a 0.750" hole to make everything work.
@@Frank4358 I assume the fix has been all good so far? Thanks for this video. Much appreciated
@@abefroman1986 engine starts and runs as designed. No known problems. And the best part is that I haven't used any oil.
I've been averaging about 19 to 22mpg around town. Your results may vary.
Did you do anything to block off the existing PCV?
No. I left it as is.
Why didnt you did a t line from the lower hose of the intake, wouldnt that be more easy?instead of drilling it to the intake.
If you're speaking about the power brake vacuum hose, you run the risk of introducing oil residue to the power booster. Then at some point you'll need to replace the power booster. Giving the PCV a dedicated vacuum port gives you a direct link between the PCV and the intake port, without compromising the brake power booster, or affecting the vacuum signal to the intake port at the cylinder head.
@@Frank4358 ua-cam.com/video/glHfwXUFXos/v-deo.html
@@Frank4358 sent you link
@@rhurtadorh32 it doesn't solve the problem. It just redirects the oil that will need to be drained periodically from the catch can.
Doing it the way I showed you keeps the emission system sealed true to OEM. No draining required. And the oil is burned in the combustion chamber.
What drill size did you use?
Hi Frank, last year I installed a separator into the clean side of the PCV system, and it works well and does not freeze up. I have captured quite a bit of moisture and oil. Only occurs at high speeds and moderate loads where intake vacuum is very low. GM designed the fixed orifice PCV system to prevent flow variation of standard valve. Makes for programming the ECU fuel/load maps much easier and reliable. The cleanside operates to pull crank vapors at high speeds and low vacuum. At idle and low speeds in the city, the fixed orifice does a good job of keeping crankcase clear. I was expecting see a lot of carbon and "gunk" in opening of the head but it was clean from your video. Did you block off the orifice? The only time I get build-up on the cleanside tube and reservoir is during highway driving, low vacuum and high moisture conditions, such as raining or snowy weather. Did you take any vacuum measurements in the intake or pressure in the crankcase, before and after. Just curious to compare. Can you connect a vacuum gauge with a long tube and check the reading at highway speeds, up and down hills and flats.
I am considering a similar design. How did you select the PCV valve? There are dozens of PCV valves with different flow rates and specs. Getting too much or to little could cause problems for the engine in the long term. I am considering a ME Wagner, dual stage adjustable valve that you can calibrate for the need (size, vacuum specs, and performance of your engine. It uses 3/4" grommet opening, same as yours and should connect to the your 3/8" hose easily. Check it out.
That tiny orifice gets clogged, as well as the return that accumulates moisture then freezes.
Before I did the modification I removed the oil fill cap and found an amazing amount of pressure blowing out.
I checked the PCV return line and it was clear.
Now that it's modified the pressure coming out of the oil fill cap is negligible.
When choosing a PCV valve size was obviously a concern, and the one I chose was compatible to other 4-cylinder engine applications.
The engine operates as designed with no major concerns for vacuum variation. Cold start, and warm engine idle is actually about 50 rpm lower now; both in drive or park.
At cruising speeds the engine also operates at a slightly lower rpm as well.
No additional programming or remapping of the ECM was needed.
I hope this answers your questions.
@@Frank4358 Did you find the orifice completely clogged with hard carbon build-up? Did you block off that orifice or leave it open when you made the change? Would you mind checking vacuum at the EVAP port while driving under varying conditions. Also monitor Fuel Trims as well. This would be extremely helpful to others considering the changes. I am seeing very low vacuum at cruise speed on highway and even lower, near 0 going up slight grades. I am wondering if this is normal for this engine design.
@@tssci6774 the orifice in the intake manifold was clogged. And as you could see in the video, the port on the manifold was clean and dry. I left it as is.
Unfortunately I do not have the means of checking vacuum while driving. All I can tell you is that the engine operates under normal parameters. Not quite sure why you feel the need to reprogram or remap the ECM?
@@Frank4358 Instead of a vacuum gauge, do you have OBD-II reader that shows live data. MAP readings would suffice.
That tube on the side of the air cleaner,needs to be plugged in to test pvc system...I think you sew that.
Yes. I blew it out at the head, the air box, and the line itself.
Still need a catch can for vaporized oil droplets.
Why not enlarge the original PVC hose hole at the airbox as an entrance ?
Then, no need to remove the intake man.
Are no crankcase fumes coming out of the original valve cover tube ?
There is a baffle between the oil cap and the cams. There is no need for a catch can.
The return, or balance tube that connects to the air box is not a PCV. Enlarging the tube size does nothing, and can adversely affect engine performance.
There are crankcase fumes and if you perform this modification it will draw them out of the rockercover area then safely burns them in the combustion chamber.
The existing PCV orifice was not blocked off.
@@Frank4358 Is it not possible to enlarge the PCV hole in the intake assembly, as well, with a soldering iron with special attachment?
Anyway, there is a video on UA-cam that shows how to install a catch can on a 2.4 Ecotec for oil vapors, to prevent intake valve coking, since the engine uses GDI.
That breather fitting on the valve cover above cyl.#1 can't be a return ?
If connected to the intake manifold this means vacuum is applied to it, no ?
On my old Ford, there is the PCV valve to the carb, then another breather elbow to the airbox.
Can't say there is a return.
Please explain how enlarging the existing little hose dia. or opening is going to affect engine performance?
Not being a pest, just curious.
@@seapeddler you're affecting the vacuum signal. They chose that orifice size for a reason. If you change the vacuum signal you can affect the engine performance.
A PCV system is designed to remove pressure from the crankcase to prevent engine seals from getting blown out. The most significant seal would be the rear crankshaft seal.
Secondly, in addition to relieving pressure it's also designed to remove harmful fuel vapors. The only safe way to remove the fuel vapors is to burn them in the combustion chamber.
That's why the PCV port was placed at the base of the intake runner.
And there must be a balance. That's why there is a vent tube from the cylinder head to the airbox.
@@Frank4358 Well, I saw a fellow UA-camr install a catch can onto the metered valve cover outlet with a larger dia. hose. There was no mention of lost vacuum signal. A brake booster vac hose or a small distributor vac hose will still measure the same vacuum as indicated on the gauge. But, anyway, I'm sure the little breather hose is a certain dia. for a reason. I'll not argue that point. You'd think there would be less fuel vapors with GDI as well.
But if the right people want something to blow up, it will blow up. But it isn't like living near a volcano...that's for sure.
@@Frank4358 i`m curious about oil cap mod video does not show this
Hi Frank could I put the hose somewhere that is not the oil fill cap
No. There is a baffle between the oil cap and the valvetrain to prevent oil splashback. There are no other baffles on the rocker cover.
No. There's a baffle between the oil cap and valvetrain to prevent oil splashback. There are no other baffles on the rocker cover.
What do you think of the vented oil cap fc219. Could this help instead of doing your method
@@karatejoejr I can't see how that can work properly. These engines have a "sealed emissions system". Nothing is to be vented to the atmosphere. Doing it the way I've shown here maintains the integrity of the emissions system while properly evacuating pressure, fuel/oil fumes then safely burning them in the combustion chamber.
@@Frank4358 Thank you frank this will save my 2012 chevy equinox.
Watching this video was a pain in the ass. This something I gotta do too😂
Glad I could help
The wife’s 2011 terrain has 76k miles and we just recently started having oil consumption issues, did GM’s Test of 3 times being the vehicle in at 1000 miles first time 3/4 of a quart low, second 1.5 quarts low, told me it’s definitely burning oil and to bring it in at 800 miles to push it through, so I bring the car in at 810 miles for 3/4 of quart low for the service manager to say oh gm says that’s normal. Bout shit a brick and told him it was bullshit. Can’t wait to go up there with the invoices where they previously stated that it was low and not “normal”. Hate being lied to especially after a TSB and a class action law suit.
Their general response is, "everything is okay". They would not perform the TSB on my vehicle. But they were more than willing to charge me $300 to do the same procedure. That's what prompted me to come up with my own solution. Good luck.
Crack me up. I was looking on net & found a forum and most on there were saying pressure is suppose to come out of oil cap. I thinking What ?! But isn't there a easier way to fix this problem?
Comes in pulses. A complete vacuum should be present under wot
Check out my original comment on the page. I explained how i fixed my issues
well i did your fix and so far it is not working. burns as much oil as before and i even put in new rings. my next step will be a new engine. but i will give it a month to allow the rings to seat just in case they are causing this. i will let you know. thanks for the possible fix it may work for others
Did you change your oil after doing the modification? I took my Equinox on a long trip on the highway.
I also test my oil to see what's going on inside my engine. I found fuel dilution in the oil that I am still chasing.
One theory is that the high-pressure fuel pump is leaking down after the engine is Off. Another theory is that the injectors are not shutting down with the engine Off. Difficult to diagnose, but could contribute to oil consumption from washing the rings.
@@Frank4358 , frank i overhauled the engine. new rings head and rod bearings. and of course new oil. 30w breaking oil. no difference at this time. also did you know you can't block off the original pvc vent? i installed a tapered screw kind of like a idle jet screw on the carbs and when i had that factory pvc blocked off i had more outbound pressure on that port that goes to the breather than with it open. so i had to open the about 1 1/2 turns and that port got to 15" vacuum and i took off the gage. at the same time the mod pvc i put my finger on the suction side and it had plenty of vacuum i did not bother to check it because you could tell it was sucking plenty .but as i said in the top comment the rings may not have yet seated. so i'm giving the rings a month or so and 1000 miles to seat. thanks
@@bobpalmer4740 if you read some of the comments you'll know that I did not block off the OEM PCV. Also, blow out the PCV return from the air box to the cylinder head. If that's clogged it will keep crankcase pressure. I used a air gun with my compressor to clean it out from the return tube. Then blew out the orifice at the cylinder head.
@@Frank4358 thanks frank i did that also the head was rebuilt so that is clean as new. thanks like i said i will run it for a bit and let you know how my trial went. i will not take it away as i do see it is doing something. at the least, it should keep the internals from sludging up. i may just have to many going on with the rings at this time but they should not be worse being new ar yours was being old and full of old oil. anyway thanks, and i will let you know in a month how it is going.
frank i think i now have a lean condition with this upgrade? ever since doing this she now has the engine at stops want to stall out at stops. what i'm going to do is take the pvc and clamp off the hose and let her see if that changed the stalling issue. if it did then i will open the clamp a bit at a time until the stalling stops and then it may be fine. your idea sounds good but if you do not have the lea engine then we have 2 different systems. she has no egr nor a iac module. so that may be the difference. thanks
Same brain dead engineers created a similar pcv orfice in my 2014 Chevy Cruze 1.4 turbo. But with what looks like a Holley carb rubber diaphragm. What a joke. I installed an outside pcv system on it. And had to replace the valve cover because it had a rubber diaphragm in it also. Just blows my mind the lack of how a pcv system should be simple, and a non common sense smart ass can screw up the design.
Things are getting very expensive once you gotta change that water pump. Look it up make your wonder why you buy a car like that
You should not have done that. You are putting the entire pvc burden on one cylinder. The factory pvc uses a shared vacuum location. You are causing one cylinder to suck all the pvc fumes and one cylinder will run lean.
Never ran lean. No engine codes. Pressure relieved.
Hello frank , what you did is zero engineering and does not do any thing to engine venting , if you take the valve cover off , you will see there is two secondary covers from inside of the valve cover and they are in certain shape and with some opening , you have no idea how the engine venting should be , by connecting your house to the oil filling cap you are shortening the path of the inlet air thru that little pipe on the left of the valve cover to go thru your added pipe instead to go down to the crankcase and get up from the other side of the cylinder head to the secondary cover and then to the intake thru PCV , best regards ..
What's your background with internal combustion engines.
@@Frank4358 engineering level of ICE , retired now duo to illness . thanks
If it doesn't work, then why have I stopped using oil, and the new PCV draws vacuum? It works better than the OE system.
@@Frank4358 its so much easy to fix the OE venting system which dose not have PCV valve , if you take of the intake manifold and open the section hole which will clogged with the slug , make the opining 5/23 ,thanks.
@@61comanche until it clogs again.
Any update frank?
Could you be more specific?
I will tell you this; Since this modification was done, I have not used any oil, at all. There were no check engine lights, and the fuel mileage was unaffected.
The clacking noise you hear is emminating from the high-pressure fuel pump. Cold start/fast idle and IAC operation is working normally. Warm idle is about 700 - 750 rpm, and the engine operates at about 1500rpm at 45 - 55 mph.
One more thing; I changed the transmission fluid with Amsoil synthetic. Transmission seems to shift smoother, and around town/highway fuel mileage increased from 16mpg city/22mpg highway, to 19 - 21mpg city/25 - 27mpg highway.
Why bother with an upgrade on a GM car that is headed to the esp that one.
Maybe, a vented oil cap??
Have you tried it?
You can't use a vented cap or the engine controller will throw a code. All of the air going into the combustion chaimber is measured, and that includes what comes from the pcv.
Why hasn’t General Motors had a class action lawsuit filed against them for this flaw ?
Not sure.
Pretty sure you were crying when you displayed the damaged intake😂
No, I wasn't. I was prepared with a new intake plenum just in case of a catastrophic failure.
Did this give any cel lights
If you mean ECM trouble codes, no.
@@Frank4358 thanks
Why not just put a valve cover breather?
A breather does not do what a PCV does. There is a breather return from the cylinder head to the airbox.
The PCV evacuates crankcase pressure, but it also carries any hydrocarbons that are within the mix. Those hydrocarbons are sent back into the intake where it is mixed with the air and fuel being pulled into the combustion chamber to be re-burned. It's part of the emissions control system.
By adding a sealed PCV (not vented to the atmosphere) you don't bypass the vehicles emissions system, and you pass state and federal emissions standards.
@@Frank4358 so if you don't have emissions like Indiana, you can just use a valve cover vent? I want to modify my oil cap and maybe run it into my header for some extra vacuum. I've done that on old school v8s but not sure if the system is the same on the ecotec platform.
@@8.2deck there's already a breather return from the cylinder head to the airbox. A breather is not a PCV valve. So regardless of the fact that your state has no emissions testing has nothing to do with what you suggested. You need an active PCV to extract pressure from the crankcase to prevent rear main seal failure, and prevent excess pressure from pushing past the rings causing oil consumption and engine damage.
@@Frank4358 okay i was kinda confused but now i see what's going on. I think i'll also run a catch can that way I'm not spraying oil on my valves and I'll be able to monitor it a little better.
@@8.2deck no need for a catch can if you follow my instructions. There is a baffle between the oil fill cap and rockers, valve springs and valve stems.