It's good to note that this is only measuring ACTIVE painting time. I didn't time me cleaning the airbrush, thinning paint, etc. Start to finish probably closer to 1hr45 - 2hrs all things (like basing and decals) considered.
@@Miniacthanks for saying that!!! Super helpful to hear what is a more realistic "sit down session" (well, maybe not a realistic expectation for the quality of the average viewer's paintjob *cough* totally not me, haha what?? *cough* but still!!)
Love the color choices on these. (Also does anyone else miss the classic Miniac metal intro? I feel like I haven’t seen it in a while and It was always a banger)
I love tamiya white for underpainting. it thins down so nicely allowing for a great black to white gradient. I use XF-2 though, the flat white, thinned like 4 to 6 parts x20a to 1 part paint.
I love that you show the mistakes and the real learning process. Those moments of "crap this didn't work" are the ones that really teach you about a process or the limitations and it's so important to show that up!
I do like the black inquisitor armour, but when you mentioned a while back about going with white instead, it really made sense, and rhe final outcome is gorgeous. I really hope the Night-troopers make it to the game at some point.
Loving your take on the Shatterpoint models! I like that you released a video about the gameplay to kick this series off. Knowing the game and how it works helps bring interest to the models/lore and seeing them brought to life with your innovative painting techniques, schemes, and conversions is a joy to watch. Awesome job!
Paint jobs are slick and stylish. It's also fun to see a creator work on stuff that excites them. I would love to see more star wars content. Insert clip of Kylo Ren shouting MOAR!
Nice video Scott! Thanks for this one! There is a blue bar somewhere towards the end 23:55 that says "New frames need analyzing" , don't worry its just for 10s. You might want to look into that for the next video.
The title and thumbnail are so good, they're both the perfect blend of descriptive and eye-catching where the video works like click bait but doesn't feel like click bait.
15:55 adding any kind of medium or varnish will strengthen the ink (that has a relative weak medium). Adding it in will not add any step (except for mixing it beforehand), but varnish over the ink, does protect from reactivation more. The medium/varnish (either mixed in or sprayed on top) can also change the finish which you may want. For example more glossy to decrease surface tension or the other way around. A caveat is that mixing in a medium will decrease the transparency of the ink (basically making it a regular acrylic paint), which could be beneficial or not.
alot of us automotive modelers still like to use enamel / laquer paints and have same drying times to struggle with. more so with the enamel (oil) paints. one solution is to buy a dehydrator (used one for cheap) to accelerate drying times. thanks for another great tutorial
2:50 I also don't like the grainy look of speckling from airbrushing. I have noticed that thinning the white paint a lot really helps. This does make this step longer, because you need to layer it up more to get the same opacity.
Scott if you put your oils covered in the freezer they preserve better but still might need a whisp of mineral spirits. I have a wash in my freezer that is more than 3 months old..it is in a small jar. Others I just cover if I'm using it over a week.
Hey Scott, first time responding to one of your great videos. I am more into historic figures, and do no gaming at all, but follow your channel regularly for a couple of years now because your videos are clearly created with a lot of attention to detail, are informative, and a lot of fun to watch. It is interesting for me, as someone who was "educated" on oils, by reading classic books by the likes of the great Shep Paine, to see how you kind of "discover" this medium for painting, rather than only for weathering or for effects. I sure hope to see you venture more into this medium. I think it will be very interesting. Keep up the great work, Benny (Israel)
Oil paints drying time is based on the linseed oil to pigment ratio. Oil paints for painting pictures, not minatures have higher ratio. Scale 75 floww or abteilung 502 have lower ratio so dry/cure faster.
I really hope you enjoy Shatterpoint. It's quickly become my favorite miniature game, and since you have these individual models, you don't have to adhere to an army scheme. And there's less pressure to paint them quickly since there's less models. (Also Vader from the duel pack is an Inquisitor and it would be really sick to see this white scheme on him).
As soon as you said you were using straight oil paints, I knew you were going to hit a problem with drying times. Learned that the hard way doing Bob Ross style oil painting, and it came as quite a shock when the work I did was still drying almost a week later.
Love the big gold star trek badge,lost mine years ago, now in answer to your question I used Tamiya olive green through my airbrush to do a tank and it came out smoothly and settled nice and flat, I did put flow improver in the airbrush, and I would recommend you use Tamiya thinner with Tamiya paints, AK thinner works with AK and other paints through the airbrush, I found this out through trial and error, hope this helps you out.
I love using Tamiya flat white for zenithal priming. I learned this from cult of paint, and it works great… doesn’t reactivate like ink, easy to get good gradients with it, and it’s matte, with all that entails.
16:10 From what I have seen Tamiya White speckles more than white ink. Maybe if you thin a lot, you can compensate for that. If you paint over the zenithal the speckling is not that big of a deal, but if you are painting white like you did here, I would go with white ink too and depending on the brand (and PSI), I would thin the white ink with 50%-66% thinner to make the result as smooth as possible.
Marco Frisoni from NJM is a frequent user of oils in his workflow. He has produced good results by just going with a varnish directly over the "wet" oils and leaving them to cure under the varnish as he gets on with the rest of the paint job. As you said, YMMV. But if you are going to do more experiments with mixing oils and acrylics in your workflow, especially for speed paining , then he's worth checking out.
Wow man, these are so nice...it's so funny your standard for "speed painting" is the level I hope I achieve just as a normal painter. I don't know how nerdy you are in the Star Wars stuff but you should check out the 3d printable models for Darth Revan and darth nihilus ...those models seem to be something you'd knock out of the park with their contrasts of colors and even a Magenta pinkish lightsaber on Revan
I paint exclusively with oil and have tried many of the additives and techniques to speed up drying times that you see recommended here on the YT or the internet. None of them were too great. I began my own experimenting and have discovered that Grumbacher Matte Medium with Grumbacher Cobalt Drier (sorry, no affiliate links below) works best for me. One tiny drop from a pipette of the cobalt drier to two full fillings from a 2-inch eyedropper of the matte medium. This stuff is magic! Testing different pigments on my glass palette I have found that faster drying pigments (e.g. umbers) can be dry within hours while slower drying ones (e.g. cadmiums) take a day. I should also mention I live in a very humid part of Texas where a tiny amount of cadmium red, a slow drying pigment, can take over two weeks to dry. The other added benefit of this combo is that the matte medium gives the oil paints a real nice flow off the brush. The matte part, however, doesn't work that well. Not with transparent pigments at least, which come out really glossy. You will still want to varnish the model later. The big drawback is that odorless white spirits can't be used with the matte medium. Instead, turpentine must be used which may be show stopper for some people as it does have an odor. However, I don't use the turpentine to thin the paint and only to clean off my brush between switching pigments, so most of the time I keep the lid to my turpentine cup closed. Frankly, white spirits are too harsh on oil paints, particularly when using such little paint, and outside of using them for an oil wash on a piece of terrain, I've been happier without it. Best of luck on your linseed journey.
Love the video. I am currently going through my Core box. Creating super fast tutorials/inspiring videos (as I call them) using only contrast paints. Results are not near yours but they get the minis do acceptable tabletop quality. And I'm aiming with them more toward the beginners.
These aren't speed painted, they're a striking tabletop game standard, great to see you having fun with blending out oils and not just limiting them to washes and if it was needing something new out of the books then I'm glad. The results on the armour and cloaks speak for themselves, smooooth Great to see you painting 32mmm instead of just the big display stuff, these were approached intelligently and finished as great examples of getting them done to a the right standard without taking two weeks, great job, great vid
Hi, Scott, if you wanna paint minis with oils but waiting for long not your thing, some liquin or megilp, or malbutter are your friends, they speed up drying oils, so even long drying pigments cure completely in a matter of several hours, so you can have oils dry overnight for sure!
Hey I’m the mailman that just delivered to you love the video👍 subscribed. I remember in high school painting with oil based paint not knowing how long the drying process was and bring a project to school that still had went paint all over it haha.
I’m so happy to see you’re excited about shatterpoint. Legion has some traction but is overshadowed by 40k of course. I’m so hopeful that shatterpoint hits its stride and is around for a long time. I think it makes a little more sense thematically than legion. Big battles happen in Star Wars but it’s always been about the skirmishes and the people in them.
That’s is it!! I can’t stand by any more sir and let you make a mockery of the institution that is Star Wars! Haha! I dig the white inquisitors. Really well done! You are a fantastic painter!!
My experience with Tamiya is for smoothness I thin it more than I would expect. They take to being thinned incredibly well, and usually I got 4:1 thinner to paint, possibly more. I do find it needs to be mixed well, so ball bearing in the jars, plus mixing really well outside the airbrush. Then for spraying I do light coats and decent pressure, using a couple of layers to feather the gradient. It dries quickly so that Isn't much of a problem. I expect you probably know all of this, but hope it might help!
@@Miniac I did that when I first used it, but over time thinned more and more. Hopefully coverage will work out for you, as I say, drying time is quick so doesn't add too much time.
@@Miniac1:1 works good for base coating with most tamiya colors, but white needs a lot of thinner. Mr levelling thinner or orange cap tamiya thinner work best because they have paint retarder in them, which reduces the grainyness
Tamiya white is a weird color to spray, it needs a lot of thinner as previous commenter said. You may try the LP series tamiya white or paint like ak real colors or mr color, i had better effects with them. Adding tamiya x-22 or using retarder/levelling thinner can also help with paint going on smoother
Great paint jobs Scott! I just came here to check how many people pointed out that the inquisitors have been all over Star Wars Rebels and Obi Wan... but yeah ... turns out it was less than expected!
3:45 sometimes a zenithalled mini looks pure white under our painting lamp, but isn't. Something that helps me is to compare it to something that is actually pure white you have on your desk, to check if you actually went far enough.
These look great! Love the experimentation and the brush stroke videos (like on 2nd sister's chest). At 23:59 there's a weird blue banner saying "New frames need analyzing; click Analyze".
Some pigments in oil paints dry faster and others slower. For example Burnt Umber PBr7 dries fast while White PW6 dries slowly. There a bunch of other factors of course, but I found this particular difference interesting.
It's not necessarily that the *pigments* cure faster or slower, but that each pigment requires its own ratio of oil to properly suspend it (and some even require other additives to prevent weird clumping issues, such as ultramarine blue needing stearic acid). So yes, every color may have a slightly different curing time due to the overall volume of oil in it. For minis work, it's pretty important to keep the paint layers pretty thin (not necessarily thinned with medium, just not thick layers). But yeah, whites and cadmiums will take a lot longer to dry than others.
@@Wijkert no worries. Just wanted to expand on it, so those who aren't familiar with the medium understand better. Great technical book on all this stuff is The Artist's Handbook by Ralph Mayer.
You can get oils to dry fast on mins by putting them in a crock pot on LOW, preferably elevating them off the bottom, for 30 minutes. UV probably doesn't do all that much and may dull certain pigments.
Shatterpoint does look interesting and you did an awesome job on the minis, Ive been interested but I am so heavily invested in other war games that ANOTHER game to play feels like a huge undertaking
Careful Scoot, your Henry Steele is showing. I will remember this in six months when you have a video about painting a Dark Eldar plane and you use dot filtering and just go full Henry.
A tip for old oil paints that may work, is to mix with a little walnut oil to improve working time. It was used as an old technique for creating oil paints by mixing with pigment, though not sure how it would react with modern day oil paints. It may improve the working time though.
Not all pigments are fully lightfast. Too long in a uv curing station could theoretically fade some paint. In the OG days when oil painting was more common on minis painters would put their minis in a coffee can with an incandescent light above it. This helped dry the oils faster. Consequences of acrylic over oil that isn't dry will most commonly be cracking. Oil paint cures via oxidization rather than evaporation as well, so putting a coat of acrylics may cause the oils to never cure.
Light bulb moment - you paint highlights and shadows at the same time moving from one section to the next. Not - as many tutorials show - all the shadows then all the highlights. I can instantly see how that will make painting easier for me - less thinking. I only have to think about each shape once. THANK YOU.
For Tamiya paints on the airbrush it's usually a good idea to add some retardant medium to the mix, since it's a solvent-based acrylic it dries even faster than water-based paints, it's so fast that the paint dries mid-air and hit the model as a solid particle. The retardant gives time for the paint to settle on itself, creating a homogenous film of paint instead of micro-dots, then you can "flush dry" by just blowing the air from the airbrush into the surface, before adding the next layers. This also helps with dry tip, and lets you spray with lower psi - which helps avoiding overshooting.
so i actually recently tried using heavy body acrylics and used them in a similar manner to how you did the oil paints on the armour and got a pretty similar result but i believe they dried in in about half an hour. important note this was over a high gloss surface on snowtroopers so im unsure if anyone else uses heavy body acrylics in that manner. i only used them because i thought they were oil paints at first and was going to make washes and then thought well i have them, might as well try something new.
Do you have a link to the 3d printed painting handle you used at 2:10 ? I've been using prescription bottles but I'd love to print some of those out, it looks like it has a swappable top.
Maybe you could try mr color levelling thinner for the tamiya white. It's what i'm using and t works beautifully. Just don't forget ppe as it is made for laquers.
8:40 Arnau Lazaro is incredible with skin. Full stop. While Miniac is my favorite miniature artist, I can't stress how much you have to check out Lazaro.
I've had more difficulties with ink, tbh. Though, generally, I tend to thin Tamiya white to the point that it takes FOREVER to start looking white. It's a gradual process, and I've gotten my share of blisters, but it helps a lot. Not reccomended for speedpainting though, obviously.
I’m glad I’m not the only one that has issues with white acrylic ink reactivating after doing a zenithal. Scott, what are the properties of the Tamiya that prevent that?
Nice to see similar outcomes while experimenting with these different methods. I was already interested in the book set but this definitely sealed the deal for me to pick it up. What did you use for the homemade transfers?
When airbrushing through a well used cheap airbrush with a bigger (0.4?) nozzle I found the Tamiya paint with a few drops of vallejo flow improver to work through the airbrush pretty well, much better than vallejo's paint with their flow improver and airbrush thinner. I did not have much clogging with the tamiya paints, whereas even the vallejo air paints tended to have issues. That said, I switched mostly to painting bigger models like vehicles and use the airbrush primarily for basecoating and varnishing. Also I'm certainly not that experienced with the airbrush, so take my experience with a grain of salt.
That's how easy it was for me, but the stuff I recommended comes with pretty comprehensive instructions that I immediately ignored. It still turned out ok though? The one thing I glossed over was you want to make sure you trim off as much excess decal paper as possible. Normal circular decals (like the ones I used) would have a perfect circular perforation around the edge where I had to cut mine and if I did it poorly, it was more visible on the model. That and I made sure my printer was printing at it's highest DPI possible, and the image I found was a vector file so I could resize it smaller and larger w/o losing detail.
Awesome video! Can't wait for the next shatter point game. What paint handle are you using in this video? (The red ones) also When will we be able to buy the models from your Kickstarter?
Reva could have totally wore that helmet, it was standard issue. Also i HAte using using white ink through airbrush, i use army painting Matt white airbrush paint.
I always marvel at people who can just decide to test different approaches to their craft. I always think about testing and practice, even write it down, then don't. Really enjoyed the experimentation and the video. I know you love Shatterpoint, but have you tried SW: Legion? I'd be interested in your opinion if you have.
It's taken me ages to get around to watching this vid, and honestly it's really good. That 8hr inquisitor is probably one of the best paint jobs I've seen from you with a harmonious color scheme and some really nice smooth shading. Beautiful work. I recall you mentioning (probably in TUP) that this video is one of your lowest viewed, and I gotta say man, I think it's the thumbnail. Your face in the inquisitor helmet is fun, but something about it is kind of off-putting. I wouldn't mention it except to maybe help you out. If you have the time, maybe try changing up the thumbnail and see if views increase.
I was really excited when you said that you were going to use full-fat oil paint on a mini, but then you only used it for highlights and shadows... You should try painting a full model with only oil paints. Mended Brush Studio has quite a few videos on doing it that way and his way of doing it is a bit different than some other UA-camrs as he uses more color theory and has some different techniques that make it really easy and approachable. Would you be able to use dryer sheets as opposed to wet wipes for the marble effects? Also, using oil paint should get you out of that cancer-causing habit of licking your paintbrushes.
I've tried drier sheets and they aren't stretchy, but I've known people to get them to work. You really have to clean them off those, because the particles will get all over the base if you don't!
Wow Scott, 1 hour for paint jobs anywhere near this quality is insane
It's good to note that this is only measuring ACTIVE painting time. I didn't time me cleaning the airbrush, thinning paint, etc. Start to finish probably closer to 1hr45 - 2hrs all things (like basing and decals) considered.
@@Miniacthanks for saying that!!! Super helpful to hear what is a more realistic "sit down session" (well, maybe not a realistic expectation for the quality of the average viewer's paintjob *cough* totally not me, haha what?? *cough* but still!!)
@@Miniac thats still insane, i need longer for basecoating
Should have really leaned into the nerd-triggering and put a Captain Kirk or Picard head on the fifth brother. ;D
Might as well use a Space Marine head for maximum damage!
Love the color choices on these.
(Also does anyone else miss the classic Miniac metal intro? I feel like I haven’t seen it in a while and It was always a banger)
My personal favorite miniac intro is the "build up water cup"
I love tamiya white for underpainting. it thins down so nicely allowing for a great black to white gradient. I use XF-2 though, the flat white, thinned like 4 to 6 parts x20a to 1 part paint.
Nothing makes my brush moist like a new Miniac Video.
I love that you show the mistakes and the real learning process. Those moments of "crap this didn't work" are the ones that really teach you about a process or the limitations and it's so important to show that up!
I do like the black inquisitor armour, but when you mentioned a while back about going with white instead, it really made sense, and rhe final outcome is gorgeous.
I really hope the Night-troopers make it to the game at some point.
Loving your take on the Shatterpoint models! I like that you released a video about the gameplay to kick this series off. Knowing the game and how it works helps bring interest to the models/lore and seeing them brought to life with your innovative painting techniques, schemes, and conversions is a joy to watch. Awesome job!
Paint jobs are slick and stylish. It's also fun to see a creator work on stuff that excites them. I would love to see more star wars content. Insert clip of Kylo Ren shouting MOAR!
Nice video Scott! Thanks for this one!
There is a blue bar somewhere towards the end 23:55 that says "New frames need analyzing" , don't worry its just for 10s. You might want to look into that for the next video.
I’ve been wrecked by this too.
The title and thumbnail are so good, they're both the perfect blend of descriptive and eye-catching where the video works like click bait but doesn't feel like click bait.
15:55 adding any kind of medium or varnish will strengthen the ink (that has a relative weak medium). Adding it in will not add any step (except for mixing it beforehand), but varnish over the ink, does protect from reactivation more. The medium/varnish (either mixed in or sprayed on top) can also change the finish which you may want. For example more glossy to decrease surface tension or the other way around. A caveat is that mixing in a medium will decrease the transparency of the ink (basically making it a regular acrylic paint), which could be beneficial or not.
alot of us automotive modelers still like to use enamel / laquer paints and have same drying times to struggle with. more so with the enamel (oil) paints. one solution is to buy a dehydrator (used one for cheap) to accelerate drying times. thanks for another great tutorial
This video taught me about existence of custom decals, thanks Scott!
2:50 I also don't like the grainy look of speckling from airbrushing. I have noticed that thinning the white paint a lot really helps. This does make this step longer, because you need to layer it up more to get the same opacity.
Scott if you put your oils covered in the freezer they preserve better but still might need a whisp of mineral spirits. I have a wash in my freezer that is more than 3 months old..it is in a small jar. Others I just cover if I'm using it over a week.
Hey Scott, first time responding to one of your great videos. I am more into historic figures, and do no gaming at all, but follow your channel regularly for a couple of years now because your videos are clearly created with a lot of attention to detail, are informative, and a lot of fun to watch. It is interesting for me, as someone who was "educated" on oils, by reading classic books by the likes of the great Shep Paine, to see how you kind of "discover" this medium for painting, rather than only for weathering or for effects. I sure hope to see you venture more into this medium. I think it will be very interesting. Keep up the great work, Benny (Israel)
Oil paints drying time is based on the linseed oil to pigment ratio. Oil paints for painting pictures, not minatures have higher ratio. Scale 75 floww or abteilung 502 have lower ratio so dry/cure faster.
Amazing work as always the way you always jump into something new like oil etc is super inspiring also great sponsor!
Yes! More Shatterpoint!
I really hope you enjoy Shatterpoint. It's quickly become my favorite miniature game, and since you have these individual models, you don't have to adhere to an army scheme. And there's less pressure to paint them quickly since there's less models. (Also Vader from the duel pack is an Inquisitor and it would be really sick to see this white scheme on him).
As soon as you said you were using straight oil paints, I knew you were going to hit a problem with drying times. Learned that the hard way doing Bob Ross style oil painting, and it came as quite a shock when the work I did was still drying almost a week later.
Super cool, ive been trying to apply my lessons learned from display painting to army painting as well
Good to pick up some new tricks and hear your thoughts on the process
Oil paint FTW, nice stuff Scott!
Love the big gold star trek badge,lost mine years ago, now in answer to your question I used Tamiya olive green through my airbrush to do a tank and it came out smoothly and settled nice and flat, I did put flow improver in the airbrush, and I would recommend you use Tamiya thinner with Tamiya paints, AK thinner works with AK and other paints through the airbrush, I found this out through trial and error, hope this helps you out.
I love using Tamiya flat white for zenithal priming. I learned this from cult of paint, and it works great… doesn’t reactivate like ink, easy to get good gradients with it, and it’s matte, with all that entails.
White armor fits them really well!
Awesome video and also excited about you diving into shatterpoint
16:10 From what I have seen Tamiya White speckles more than white ink. Maybe if you thin a lot, you can compensate for that. If you paint over the zenithal the speckling is not that big of a deal, but if you are painting white like you did here, I would go with white ink too and depending on the brand (and PSI), I would thin the white ink with 50%-66% thinner to make the result as smooth as possible.
Marco Frisoni from NJM is a frequent user of oils in his workflow. He has produced good results by just going with a varnish directly over the "wet" oils and leaving them to cure under the varnish as he gets on with the rest of the paint job.
As you said, YMMV. But if you are going to do more experiments with mixing oils and acrylics in your workflow, especially for speed paining , then he's worth checking out.
This was very inspiring loved the color scheme and thanks for sharing also the paint selections.
Wow man, these are so nice...it's so funny your standard for "speed painting" is the level I hope I achieve just as a normal painter. I don't know how nerdy you are in the Star Wars stuff but you should check out the 3d printable models for Darth Revan and darth nihilus ...those models seem to be something you'd knock out of the park with their contrasts of colors and even a Magenta pinkish lightsaber on Revan
Those sound cool!! I'll check it out.
I paint exclusively with oil and have tried many of the additives and techniques to speed up drying times that you see recommended here on the YT or the internet. None of them were too great. I began my own experimenting and have discovered that Grumbacher Matte Medium with Grumbacher Cobalt Drier (sorry, no affiliate links below) works best for me. One tiny drop from a pipette of the cobalt drier to two full fillings from a 2-inch eyedropper of the matte medium. This stuff is magic! Testing different pigments on my glass palette I have found that faster drying pigments (e.g. umbers) can be dry within hours while slower drying ones (e.g. cadmiums) take a day. I should also mention I live in a very humid part of Texas where a tiny amount of cadmium red, a slow drying pigment, can take over two weeks to dry. The other added benefit of this combo is that the matte medium gives the oil paints a real nice flow off the brush. The matte part, however, doesn't work that well. Not with transparent pigments at least, which come out really glossy. You will still want to varnish the model later.
The big drawback is that odorless white spirits can't be used with the matte medium. Instead, turpentine must be used which may be show stopper for some people as it does have an odor. However, I don't use the turpentine to thin the paint and only to clean off my brush between switching pigments, so most of the time I keep the lid to my turpentine cup closed. Frankly, white spirits are too harsh on oil paints, particularly when using such little paint, and outside of using them for an oil wash on a piece of terrain, I've been happier without it.
Best of luck on your linseed journey.
Love the video. I am currently going through my Core box.
Creating super fast tutorials/inspiring videos (as I call them) using only contrast paints.
Results are not near yours but they get the minis do acceptable tabletop quality. And I'm aiming with them more toward the beginners.
Messing with any lore - I love being creative, not just repeat the pattern someone established. Glad You did it!
These aren't speed painted, they're a striking tabletop game standard, great to see you having fun with blending out oils and not just limiting them to washes and if it was needing something new out of the books then I'm glad. The results on the armour and cloaks speak for themselves, smooooth
Great to see you painting 32mmm instead of just the big display stuff, these were approached intelligently and finished as great examples of getting them done to a the right standard without taking two weeks, great job, great vid
They look absolutely awesome. And in such short time? Hot diggity-damn.
That marble effect on the basing was inspirational, thanks Scott!
Great video. I also found inks to reactivate after I started painting over it. Very frustrating. Will try your technique. Thanks! 🤟🏼
Hi, Scott, if you wanna paint minis with oils but waiting for long not your thing, some liquin or megilp, or malbutter are your friends, they speed up drying oils, so even long drying pigments cure completely in a matter of several hours, so you can have oils dry overnight for sure!
Came here to say the same thing!! Glad someone else already suggested both of these mediums.
Everything is excellent. That marble base trick though...damn
Awesome models. They definitely look like more than 60 minutes work. Great results.
It's important to remember that I'm only tracking active painting time. I'm not counting when I'm cleaning my airbrush, or preparing paint, etc.
All 3 look great but Big Boi is my favorite. His blacks just look cleaner and visually interesting to me.
Hey I’m the mailman that just delivered to you love the video👍 subscribed. I remember in high school painting with oil based paint not knowing how long the drying process was and bring a project to school that still had went paint all over it haha.
Great to meet you this afternoon! Thanks for subscribing :)
Great video! I have just started testing out oil paints for miniature painting. I am looking forward to this exploration and testing 😁
I’m so happy to see you’re excited about shatterpoint. Legion has some traction but is overshadowed by 40k of course. I’m so hopeful that shatterpoint hits its stride and is around for a long time. I think it makes a little more sense thematically than legion. Big battles happen in Star Wars but it’s always been about the skirmishes and the people in them.
That’s is it!! I can’t stand by any more sir and let you make a mockery of the institution that is Star Wars! Haha! I dig the white inquisitors. Really well done! You are a fantastic painter!!
I think you made the right call with the head swap. He always looked like a hammerhead shark when he appeared in the show.
Appreciate the length of the video, thankyou.
My experience with Tamiya is for smoothness I thin it more than I would expect. They take to being thinned incredibly well, and usually I got 4:1 thinner to paint, possibly more. I do find it needs to be mixed well, so ball bearing in the jars, plus mixing really well outside the airbrush. Then for spraying I do light coats and decent pressure, using a couple of layers to feather the gradient. It dries quickly so that Isn't much of a problem.
I expect you probably know all of this, but hope it might help!
I certainly wasn't thinning 4:1, more like 1:1. I'll give it a shot, but I fear that'll make the zenithal application take a while!
@@Miniac I did that when I first used it, but over time thinned more and more. Hopefully coverage will work out for you, as I say, drying time is quick so doesn't add too much time.
@@Miniac1:1 works good for base coating with most tamiya colors, but white needs a lot of thinner. Mr levelling thinner or orange cap tamiya thinner work best because they have paint retarder in them, which reduces the grainyness
They look great Scott, glad to see you getting into Shatterpoint!
Tamiya white is a weird color to spray, it needs a lot of thinner as previous commenter said. You may try the LP series tamiya white or paint like ak real colors or mr color, i had better effects with them. Adding tamiya x-22 or using retarder/levelling thinner can also help with paint going on smoother
Great paint jobs Scott!
I just came here to check how many people pointed out that the inquisitors have been all over Star Wars Rebels and Obi Wan... but yeah ... turns out it was less than expected!
Those are amazing, this was fun. Thank you for making videos like that.
you nailed it-especially the Ahshoka chick's cloak. Vunderbar
3:45 sometimes a zenithalled mini looks pure white under our painting lamp, but isn't. Something that helps me is to compare it to something that is actually pure white you have on your desk, to check if you actually went far enough.
These look great! Love the experimentation and the brush stroke videos (like on 2nd sister's chest). At 23:59 there's a weird blue banner saying "New frames need analyzing; click Analyze".
Some pigments in oil paints dry faster and others slower. For example Burnt Umber PBr7 dries fast while White PW6 dries slowly. There a bunch of other factors of course, but I found this particular difference interesting.
it's different chemicals in pigments, as many oil color pigment are not powders but compounds nowadays.
It's not necessarily that the *pigments* cure faster or slower, but that each pigment requires its own ratio of oil to properly suspend it (and some even require other additives to prevent weird clumping issues, such as ultramarine blue needing stearic acid). So yes, every color may have a slightly different curing time due to the overall volume of oil in it. For minis work, it's pretty important to keep the paint layers pretty thin (not necessarily thinned with medium, just not thick layers). But yeah, whites and cadmiums will take a lot longer to dry than others.
@@danthonyrobinson I should have explained myself better, but yeah, that's a better explanation.
@@Wijkert no worries. Just wanted to expand on it, so those who aren't familiar with the medium understand better. Great technical book on all this stuff is The Artist's Handbook by Ralph Mayer.
I really enjoyed this video. Best one in quite a while, imo.
You can get oils to dry fast on mins by putting them in a crock pot on LOW, preferably elevating them off the bottom, for 30 minutes. UV probably doesn't do all that much and may dull certain pigments.
The evolution of thumbnails is worth it's own video. All great!
Haha, I'm trying over here!
This was a lot of fun to watch, by chance could you make a video about how you made your own decals? I think it would be very interesting
Impressive, very impressive
Perfect color scheme ❤ it looks so cool that I'm surprised it's not the official colors
Shatterpoint does look interesting and you did an awesome job on the minis, Ive been interested but I am so heavily invested in other war games that ANOTHER game to play feels like a huge undertaking
Painting up a skirmish force doesn't take too long. I need 2 more figs after this first 4 and I have a full army!
@@Miniac oh shit that's not bad at all! Thanks for the info, I am definitely much more interested!
Careful Scoot, your Henry Steele is showing. I will remember this in six months when you have a video about painting a Dark Eldar plane and you use dot filtering and just go full Henry.
A tip for old oil paints that may work, is to mix with a little walnut oil to improve working time. It was used as an old technique for creating oil paints by mixing with pigment, though not sure how it would react with modern day oil paints. It may improve the working time though.
Not all pigments are fully lightfast. Too long in a uv curing station could theoretically fade some paint. In the OG days when oil painting was more common on minis painters would put their minis in a coffee can with an incandescent light above it. This helped dry the oils faster.
Consequences of acrylic over oil that isn't dry will most commonly be cracking.
Oil paint cures via oxidization rather than evaporation as well, so putting a coat of acrylics may cause the oils to never cure.
Light bulb moment - you paint highlights and shadows at the same time moving from one section to the next.
Not - as many tutorials show - all the shadows then all the highlights.
I can instantly see how that will make painting easier for me - less thinking. I only have to think about each shape once.
THANK YOU.
Great video, great techniques here. The results are stunning!
For Tamiya paints on the airbrush it's usually a good idea to add some retardant medium to the mix, since it's a solvent-based acrylic it dries even faster than water-based paints, it's so fast that the paint dries mid-air and hit the model as a solid particle. The retardant gives time for the paint to settle on itself, creating a homogenous film of paint instead of micro-dots, then you can "flush dry" by just blowing the air from the airbrush into the surface, before adding the next layers. This also helps with dry tip, and lets you spray with lower psi - which helps avoiding overshooting.
Great stuff friend 👏 👍
Great video! I’m definitely going to try the oil paints soon!
No disgust here, just want those head stls haha great vid Scott!
Man you did such a cool job with these, You're making me want to try this out! it's cool to see Inquisitors in White too! 👌
so i actually recently tried using heavy body acrylics and used them in a similar manner to how you did the oil paints on the armour and got a pretty similar result but i believe they dried in in about half an hour. important note this was over a high gloss surface on snowtroopers so im unsure if anyone else uses heavy body acrylics in that manner. i only used them because i thought they were oil paints at first and was going to make washes and then thought well i have them, might as well try something new.
For a smoother spray finish of Tamiya paints, thin them with Mr. Color Leveling Thinner ;)
I bet you could spray through the wipe for each color, keeping some white in there
Do you have a link to the 3d printed painting handle you used at 2:10 ? I've been using prescription bottles but I'd love to print some of those out, it looks like it has a swappable top.
It's from A-case, a company that makes miniature carrying cases!
@@Miniac Thanks bud
Cool as always.
Maybe you could try mr color levelling thinner for the tamiya white. It's what i'm using and t works beautifully.
Just don't forget ppe as it is made for laquers.
8:40 Arnau Lazaro is incredible with skin. Full stop. While Miniac is my favorite miniature artist, I can't stress how much you have to check out Lazaro.
I've had more difficulties with ink, tbh. Though, generally, I tend to thin Tamiya white to the point that it takes FOREVER to start looking white. It's a gradual process, and I've gotten my share of blisters, but it helps a lot. Not reccomended for speedpainting though, obviously.
I’m glad I’m not the only one that has issues with white acrylic ink reactivating after doing a zenithal. Scott, what are the properties of the Tamiya that prevent that?
Probably the medium itself just being more resilient, but I'm unsure
Hot damn these look great, all of a sudden i want to buy the shatterpoint models!
Nice to see similar outcomes while experimenting with these different methods. I was already interested in the book set but this definitely sealed the deal for me to pick it up.
What did you use for the homemade transfers?
Got it linked in the description!
@@Miniac … of course… I knew that…
When airbrushing through a well used cheap airbrush with a bigger (0.4?) nozzle I found the Tamiya paint with a few drops of vallejo flow improver to work through the airbrush pretty well, much better than vallejo's paint with their flow improver and airbrush thinner. I did not have much clogging with the tamiya paints, whereas even the vallejo air paints tended to have issues. That said, I switched mostly to painting bigger models like vehicles and use the airbrush primarily for basecoating and varnishing. Also I'm certainly not that experienced with the airbrush, so take my experience with a grain of salt.
3 wolf moon. Great choice
Dominate the Paint!!!
Love it! Do you have a good place to learn for printing your own decals or is it as easy as buy the paper, size the design and print?
That's how easy it was for me, but the stuff I recommended comes with pretty comprehensive instructions that I immediately ignored. It still turned out ok though? The one thing I glossed over was you want to make sure you trim off as much excess decal paper as possible. Normal circular decals (like the ones I used) would have a perfect circular perforation around the edge where I had to cut mine and if I did it poorly, it was more visible on the model. That and I made sure my printer was printing at it's highest DPI possible, and the image I found was a vector file so I could resize it smaller and larger w/o losing detail.
Awesome video! Can't wait for the next shatter point game. What paint handle are you using in this video? (The red ones) also When will we be able to buy the models from your Kickstarter?
Hopefully this season for Christmas I'll have the wood elves for sale. The red one is from A-case.
Reva could have totally wore that helmet, it was standard issue. Also i HAte using using white ink through airbrush, i use army painting Matt white airbrush paint.
Finally some real oil painting representation… and not just washes.😅
Shatterpoint! ❤❤
This style is so cool! I really like the white inquisitors I swear if you don't paint Darth Vader in this style I'm going to unsubscribe!😂
I always marvel at people who can just decide to test different approaches to their craft. I always think about testing and practice, even write it down, then don't. Really enjoyed the experimentation and the video. I know you love Shatterpoint, but have you tried SW: Legion? I'd be interested in your opinion if you have.
Haven't tried out Legion yet, unfortunately but I'm excited to give it a go in the future.
oil paints are magical that's for sure
Yes! Embrace the dark side of oil paints. We are the Linseed Brotherhood.
It's taken me ages to get around to watching this vid, and honestly it's really good. That 8hr inquisitor is probably one of the best paint jobs I've seen from you with a harmonious color scheme and some really nice smooth shading. Beautiful work.
I recall you mentioning (probably in TUP) that this video is one of your lowest viewed, and I gotta say man, I think it's the thumbnail. Your face in the inquisitor helmet is fun, but something about it is kind of off-putting. I wouldn't mention it except to maybe help you out. If you have the time, maybe try changing up the thumbnail and see if views increase.
I was really excited when you said that you were going to use full-fat oil paint on a mini, but then you only used it for highlights and shadows... You should try painting a full model with only oil paints. Mended Brush Studio has quite a few videos on doing it that way and his way of doing it is a bit different than some other UA-camrs as he uses more color theory and has some different techniques that make it really easy and approachable.
Would you be able to use dryer sheets as opposed to wet wipes for the marble effects?
Also, using oil paint should get you out of that cancer-causing habit of licking your paintbrushes.
I've tried drier sheets and they aren't stretchy, but I've known people to get them to work. You really have to clean them off those, because the particles will get all over the base if you don't!