vw engine cool tin type 3 help your vw engine run cooler
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- Опубліковано 16 жов 2019
- I show you how to install type 3 "cool tin" on your vw engine. We tested these back in the 80s and got good results. I found theses to be SIgnificant better engine cooling then stock air deflectors. Use them on all my performance engines. especially with Merged header systems. With merged header some of the original tin cannot be installed. so a significant air gap is between the stock deflector and the cylinder tin.
Here is where I get these from thanks for watching and your comments.
carcraftstore.com/cylindersupe... - Авто та транспорт
Thanks, because of this video, I installed it on my 1776cc type 1 engine vw bug (with air conditioner), and i think it's an improvement for driving on hot tropical climate (Indonesia) with stop n go city driving and all traffic jam. And I think, because of more less temp, my oil degradation become less significant. Oil level also more stable.
Been running these tins for a while now, they work great!
I have a set of those on my bus right now. When you run a header system you don't have much choice. So far they seem to be working OK. Keep up the good work!
I freakin love this video purchased mine for my 1915cc engine upgrade thanks for your time sir.
With your advice from previous videos, I picked up a nice pair of these at Pomona for $2. Saw bunch last Sunday too. Tanks for another great video Mike!
just put them up tight. and hey if your thinking about it put a laser temp on the heads before and after a hill climb and post the results. like stop and idle then hit the heads from underneath.
share your comments below thanks for watching.;;;;;; be sure to like or dislike comments as well.
Great tip . I live in Arizona the hot part and yes wire on the cool tins . I have the punch tool and will use your tip on the next build tomorrow .
good insurance and all my engines with them run cool.
hey if you are doing one of your engines use a laser temp on the heads before and after or compare one with these to one without on the same drive. make sure the jetting is good and let us know the results. We did this many years ago with dash temps and got results. plus less detonation on hill climbs. This will help others.
Mike, you are totally right... those type 3 tins are awesome for cooling. They fit perfect if you could find real ones from the junk yard. Great video!
You helped me so much, thank you my friend! Greetings from Brazil!
thanks for watching.
Yes great video!
G'day Kevin from Australia.
Very informative video
Thanks for sharing. ✌
thanks kevin.
Thanks for making this video. Every bit of cooling you can gain is good 👍
If anyone has used these before and after please comment to help the sceptics that think it doesn't work. Because they read something on the internet.
Well, three years later mine are still working!
awesome series , thank you for posting Mike
you are welcome
Next time I breakdown my motor I'll be adding these bad boys!!
I agree with you that this works better its trimmed and fits perfect. It also can't get clogged up with mud, grime, etc over the years or it will not work well.
good point in all respects to vws gotta keep the fins clean no matter what tin you use.
I'll get around to doing this one day...the originals is still there,but one day I'll make it look new
original stuff is ok in cooler weather but these are certainly better for the desert areas or performance engines.
@@Mikefngarage ..right on! One day I'm gonna get around to replacing them w/ the ones you show here. Thanks for doing what you do man,its very helpful
I used these all the time but did not go the extra step of using the wire. Good idea i will do that on the next motor, I have the same punch got mine from Eastwood.
thanks dan
they tend to come loose over time and the wire is really important.
I know this is an old but video but thanks for sharing this about the cylinder tin.
Great info. 👍
This is really helpful. My type 1 has those. Supposedly it is a Scat 1835 crate engine. Everything on it, is Scat, it has chrome tins all the way around. I'm putting an A-1 exhaust stainless header. So the heater boxes are deleted. I have the shroud tube outlets capped. I m guessing I should fill the rear tin holes, I'm not sure what all I need, if anything can be deleted. The car will be run without a decklid and there is no rear apron on it. I guess like a Baja. Just wondering if you have any thoughts on whether or not there are any other things I might want to do or not do.
I've been searching for information about this kind of stuff and this is the first video I've actually found that specifically mentions the, Kool tins, which I started searching in the first place. Thanks for the great content!
My engine is out and on a stand but I have the heads and push rods installed. Will I still be able to get these tins on if I order them?
i have always played with a type 1 only and its fine but id like to see the others ex type 2 3 4 , where can i see that maybe ? thank you
Nice job!!..im deaf....the coolin tin work fine with the type3 square back engine tins??...is better use this coolin tins with the type3 horizontal oil cooler and fan system?....thanks and my best!
My builder put those on my 1904, seem to work fine but you can't use your old sled tin. I fabbed an aluminum sled tin to protect my thermostat from water and debris.
I have those tins on mine just cant put the small ones on the rear of the engine
I really need those tins for my type 1. It just makes sense! I was reading at car craft store, and it said will not work with heater boxes?
I am using them with heater boxes. I cant figure out why they have that doesnt make sense to me.
Mike Fn Garage I don’t know sir! I just wanted to double check with you. I’m going to get a set for sure! I’m using heater boxes, but will add those lower tins. I like the design. And the way you showed the better cooking of the whole jug, makes complete sense!!!
@@SladesVWBeetle I use them on many of my performance builds. My engine is going to have heater boxes cool tin and tin underneath that we should be starting it up tomorrow will it run video coming.
Mike Fn Garage Awesome!! I always look forward to your videos. I’m glad they work with heater boxes, not sure why car craft put that on their website
thank you
Could you weld tabs and bolt them on, or are they still to loose?
not sure how you would do that. pretty clear how they fit underneath.
Interesting to see the aftermarket head tins dont have the cylinder head deflector piece which is crucial to ensure the heads receive the correct amount of air
The Type 3 style cooling tins replace the deflector shields and do a far better job of cooling the barrels.
So you can fit any tin, as long as the long blocks are the same?
take a look at the engine when it is all done we will be doing a video with all tin on it
Did you have a problem with your push rod Tubes hitting the cooling tin? I tried to install mine but I couldn’t install my
push rod tubes because there was over 1/4 of rubbing. I wound up giving them to duckman cycles. He is going to try and use them on his next project.
no they should not do that.
Mike Fn Garage
??? I wonder why I couldn’t get mine to fit. I did get 1641 pistons and new heads. I wonder if the Hess were over sized.
@@OFFAxisBuilds not really sure on that sometimes you need to trim them a bit around the studs because they are designed for 8mm studs maybe you have 10mm but I use them on 10mm all the time. New motor super low head temps even after a hill climb. putting on new exhaust right now for the next videos on it.
@mike fn garage My 1915cc engine is missing all of the lower tins. What doghouse fan shroud do you recommend and top cylinder tins? I was thinking about purchasing the COMPLETE powder coated OEM German set of tins. Is that better than getting something like Scats black powder coated doghouse & powder coated cylinder tins?
German tin is really good if it is original OEM tin. But scats doghouse is I want to say just as good. has all the air deflectors like the original.
If you have a merged exhaust which would be nice to get the HP out of that engine you cannot run all the tin underneath. At that point I would say you really should run the cool tin. Required to remove the heads or use spring loaded tubes. I prefer using original equipment tubes so I remove the heads. While you have your heads off make sure the air ports in the heads are clear. sometimes some heads the castings clog the air ports. gotta check this stuff. I am running 9 to 1 compression with no overheating or pinging in a bus.
@@Mikefngarage Thanks for the info. This is a bus engine custom built by Headflow Masters out of Vista California. He only builds them one way, fully balanced & it’s welded for full flow. I have a 4-1 single quiet but it’s rusted & I want to replace with something that looks stock like Vintage Speed’s super flow. It doesn’t have balanced headers though if you want to use your heater boxes which I intend to reconnect. Scat would be a lot less expensive. I was quoted about $700 for everything including the thermostat & flaps. Only a few lower pieces are Brazilian
@@paulv8453 Unless your driving in extreme cold there is really no need for thermostat flaps. guys will tell you otherwise. But years ago we had more engines than I can count that had stuck flaps and burned up engines. Just fully warm up the engine at lower RPM for about 5 minutes and your good to go. I usually drive it slow for a while. I am running 8.75 to 1 on that engine and 9 to on on my other bus. No overheating and no running hot at all. without therms. some guys install them for flow with he flaps welded open. but I don't see much difference. IF you watch my car show video I drive my bus 80 lots of times with 3.44 gears and 9 to 1 compression and it does not run hot. Stock top dog house tins, Or scat. (pretty much the same) type 3 cool tin below the cylinders and no other tin. Because the other tin wont fit with the merged exhaust. I have full flow stock oil sump, No deep on on the 9 to 1 engine. large oil cooler with thermostatic fan (empi). But here is the key thing. My carb jetting is SPOT ON. run on exhaust analyzer. Getting the air fuel jetting right is super important. FYI I never run 1915 lots of guys do but I would use 74 stroker crank with 90.5 pistons 1904. the 94 cyls is IMO too close to the studs. But once its bored to that you just need to run with it. It would not be my recommendation for a bus either. longer stroke makes better torque. shorter stroke 69mm makes less torque and more top end. 1915 is 69x94 Not the best bus power. Braziliand lower tin is fine just the shroud need german or scat. and also cylinder dual port tin. they have an extra air diverter on them on oem german.
@@Mikefngarage This is great info! 👍 Thank you but what do you do when you rely on the professional and that’s what they suggested? I urged him to make it an 1835 or something smaller but he insisted that bigger was better.
Do you have any data that will back up your claim about superior cooling over a type 1 factory set up? As far as I know there are 2 sources that actually have investigated and collected data and they both disagree with your postion. The factory did alot of R and D and came to the opposite conculsion and said so.
only testing we did 30 plus years ago on a car;. Plus my personal experience I run them on my performance builds and I feel like they work Plus tested them on one engine before and after with lower head temps. same car averages over several weeks of driving. The test data I have heard of were guys with super shouds that may have maxed out the total air CFM ability of the fan stock deflectors. PLus One was VW which already that would have been tainted. They wont say something could have been done better because they would be wrong. We were aware of those same sources in the 80s and tested them anyway. DIsagree with the other gurus.
would a standard motor benefit from this? 1200 to 1600 ?
sometimes but best really for performance engine. I put them on everything for the most part. Especially if you drive during hot summer then you need to do everything you can do.
Jack Raby did temp checks back in the early 2000s using these cool tins on type1 didn’t make a difference it’s all documented on his website
I guess that depends on where you put the temp gauge. was he using oil temp if that was the case it would not make any difference. Head temp We tested in the 80s on performance engines and we got a few degrees cooler head temp If I remember correctly it was about 5 to 8 degrees. . It was significant enough that we used them from there out on performance builds.
These were necessary on the type 3's due to the pancake style design and the cooling being run off the back of engine AT ENGINE RPMS, the type 1 belt driven fan is larger, and turns faster due to the relative pulley sizes. The restrictions these add forced more air around fwd cylinders furthest away from fan source... probably not needed on std type 1, but on a modified, hotter running system may be beneficial in similar way to the fwd cylinders. Looking at the total picture on cooling is important as demonstrated by Jake Raby and Gene Berg who both documented testing with wide varieties of tins and fan shrouds with/without oil cooling tower at back of shrouds. The normal upright fan shrouds bias air over #3 and #4 cylinders tendency to run hotter and to offset the oil cooler ( pre doghouse ) "stealing" some cooling air from the fan shroud, and also remember, the thermostat fan flaps CLOSE the cooling fan system so the engine CAN warm up. This tells you that the stock system is more than capable of cooling in stock systems, but if you modify any of the engines displacement, compression, heads and intakes THEN something like these type 3 tins, outside oil coolers, DTM or 911 fan shrouds become more beneficial/needed. OH, and if you can, get the cooling fan's blades equally oriented, spot welded, and ground and properly balanced with the alternator... this makes that system much quieter, and durable for high power engines which accelerate/rev faster AND decellerate stressing the fan and shroud if not well balanced. Those fans were stamped out, and had only folded tabs holding them together with a few spot welds.
Where is the link to order them?
carcraftstore.com/cylindersupercooltin.aspx here you go sorry about that busy with other things
The problem is that refrigeration is made for 8 mm threaded rods, that engine have 10 mm, not engage, sorry about my english, greetings from Uruguay!!
yea we had to modify them for the 10mm on the engine we have in the video too.
When I install mine I cut tabs out of metal and weld them on the cool 10 so they actually screw together because I personally believe the wiring method is hacked
Not doubting you but Volkswagen did issue a bulletin stating that type 3 tins must not be used on the type 1 engine, you can find it here www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=667778
Yea that was a OMG......we better say something or someone is going to sue us for not putting these on every engine......Especailly with Merged exhaust they are a must install for a performance engine. With my 1904 9 to 1 compression. I can get it hot climbing too fast in my bus then as I crest the hill it cools it right down. That would not happen with stock deflector plates.
@@Mikefngarage I’m willing to try it when I eventually rebuild my 2276, I’ll get back to you in two years 😂
Oh nooo, he bought into the hype, so you think Volkswagen engineers were wrong?