Great video ,could the spider gasket condition cause pressure issues to the water return and make the handle loose aw well.? I don't wish to buy a new unit .Thanks in advance
Hi, thanks for the vid, quick question, my multi port valve doesn't have screws, it has an attached clam system that needs to be tapped with a hammer and screwdriver to release and put back on, is it possible to accidentaly put these back into the wrong selections, ie filter now actually turns runse cycle on,,??
Hi Mark Appreciate your video....have had water leak from my backwash pipe I got a couple of quotes from pool guys to either repair or replace all (filter, chlorinator) but thought I would give it a go myself by starting to replace the most common problem....the spider gasket Going to order gasket and multiport gasket (even though it looks ok) I want to replace gasket insitu but noticed water just below gasket area Any ideas how to slightly lower the water level ?
If I understand correctly you are saying the water level is sitting above the level of the spider gasket? Hopefully you have isolating valves that you can close to allow you to drain. Or disconnect the plumbing coming to the valve so the filter is disconnected from the pool. If you are after a new Chlorinator see this. The Best Saltwater Chlorinator in Australia by far. K Chlor Digital. Recommended by me Swimming Pool ua-cam.com/video/WCNvIpNAtoc/v-deo.html
@@Marksreviewsandtutorials Thanks for the reply Mark Actually the water level is (as I recall) just below the spider gasket, so I should be able to try and scrape/pull the old gasket out hopefully Just afraid that I might drop some bits into the water If I unscrew the lid off the pump/motor, would that drop some of the water level ? BTW how much for the K Chlor digital ? Thanks Robert
@@robertjkal I just use a towel once I have the valve apart. To dry where the new glue will go and soak up any water close by. Please sms Nillumbik Pool & Spa Service with your pool size and location and I will size and then quote a K Chlor for you. Mark Nillumbik Pool & Spa Service
I usually put some lube on the centre plastic and the inner ring. But It shouldn’t need lubricating as the handle should be depressed lifting it over the gasket whenever it is moved. MRT
I am on site for a service call when I do this so always straight away. Also you want the top plate to press the spider gasket flat while the glue is still flexible. MRT
The rubber spider/spoke gasket system in a pool filter multivalve head works OK from new provided the pool pump is not too powerful, or is run at reduced power and speed if it's a multispeed pump. Over time, the dissolved chlorine-based sanitiser in the pool water will damage the original rubber gasket, which is never made from a high-quality medical-grade chlorine resistant rubber, but from the cheapest butyl rubber that the PRC manufacturer can source. Every spider/spoke gasket I've come across in Australia is glued by the filter maker during assembly into the holder. Why? Because a gasket seals the interface/join between two surfaces. In a hydrodynamic system like a pool sand-filter fed by a pool pump, the pressure under the gasket is the same as the pressure over the gasket. If the original gasket were not glued into place, then it would gradually lift out of the hard plastic seating, into which it has merely been tightly pushed (and glued) because there's no mechanical clipping or retention system in a cheap spider gasket. It's push fit plus glue only. The manufacturer does not care that it's a bear of job to remove the original, glued gasket down the track. The manufacturer cares only that the gasket doesn't leak pool water across the gasket seal from the filter outlet into the waste outlet during the warranty period. After that, it's your problem. And, yes, it s a very, very big problem for pool owners. Using a sharp knife and/or flat head screwdrivers, it's impossible to remove every last trace of the original gasket and the glue without damaging the hard plastic seating which only has thin, weak, brittle walls to hold the gasket in place. So, even though you might think you've done a good job removing all the old gasket and glue without damaging the thin walls and narrow floor of the gasket seating - you haven't. Remove the complete multivalve assembly, which I DO NOT recommend, photograph the narrow slot with an iPhone under good light, blow up the image, and you will see that your 'cleaned out' gasket retaining slot is still full of gunk that you haven't removed properly. You will also see that the plastic of the slot walls and the slot floor is badly scored and even broken in places where you have scraped out the gasket and glue with too much force for the thin plastic to withstand. Especially, if you have had to lever out some of the sections of the old gasket using your screwdriver tip. What's the solution? a) Buy a new, complete multiport filter valve assembly head with new gasket already fitted, and replace the sand/glass beads in the filter at the same time. You can keep the original fibreglass body unless it cracks when you try to unscrew the multiport, which often happens. In this option, you don't waste your time and energy trying vainly to replace the old spider/spoke rubber gasket, unless your pool pump can be operated on filter at sufficiently low pressure and slow speed to allow for the fact that you haven't been able to replace the gasket cleanly enough. Option (b) use a new gasket plus a flexible gasket gap filling adhesive that will glue the new gasket firmly into place so that it can't lift, that will fill all the damage you did to the plastic gasket retainer when you scraped out the old gasket, and that will withstand the chemical attack of warm, chlorinated pool water, moving then standing when the pump is switched off. There are very few, single pack, flexible adhesives that can bond flexible a rubber gasket a to hard plastic, that will flexibly fill gaps, and that can withstand saltwater damage and chlorine damage for the life of the rubber gasket. The good news, however, is that your new rubber spider gasket will only last six months or so until you need to replace it with a new rubber spider gasket and new glue, having laboriously scraped out your replacement rubber spider gasket and glue as before.
@@Marksreviewsandtutorials Nice tutorial shame you got the Fat Middle aged guy, we get them here in bars in Thailand when their lives collapse around them. They are so sad looking. A person like that won't fly aeroplanes safely or be an astronaut trying to repair stuff in space. Thailand is like space, you can't get a lot of tech stuff you can normally get anywhere else, in 24 hours - or at all!!!. So we now live in a "world of mend and make do [ww2 saying]" here in Siam. I'm a radio engineer and repair/fix/renovate everything across a wide range of electronics and generators, antennas and stuff I own across two large sites. I hate to throw anything away except parking fines.. In your clip (as others do) you use a hard glue, ok fine I agree it's required But! I am going to risk a test of Silicone High Temp RTV (red rubber) gasket-maker to hold the spider in place, I am going to rough up the spider base with fine emery too, and scrape the channel a bit. I've just repaired the top of my pressure vessel with a home made stainless steel replacement already. Prior to that I lined a crack in the plasticm from inside with RTV which actually held for six months good, until I accidentally back-pressured "water knocked" the system and really opened the crack. I noted the RTV was really difficult to get off but soft, hence I am gonna try it. So great, thanks for confirming the job requires a glue...and remember Siam may be a little challenged for supplies but 30C every day makes up for it...etc and shitloads of pools and pool guys! I pulled out in front of one and knocked his pickup into a ditch we were both fine...but that's another story..
@@Marksreviewsandtutorials Lol, I just read his comment and although it sounds cynical there are a lot of truths. I've owned a swimming pool business now for over 30 years and we get 100's of calls a year concerning leaking multiport valves. So turn back the clock 20 years ago and we used to carry spoke gaskets for every make and model of filter, we had 4 spoke, 5 spoke, 6 spoke and all different diameters, we also had new shaft o-rings and other parts for multiports. I repaired many units that after a repair would again last another 5 or even 10 years with zero issues. The problem today is these things are built out of such low grade materials if you replace the spoke gasket oftentimes the pressure spring or as the fat middle aged guy said the dividers will fail in only a couple of months. Incidentally what you used, super glue is the correct thing and it's what Hayward Pool Products even recommends. It is truly sad to see how much of a throw-away world it has become, most pool motors, filters, pumps and support equipment lasts 3-7 years with the average repair occuring around 4 years but often within one and just out of warranty. Liners can still last 12 years if you maintain good chemistry but the old ones lasted 30 that were made with Union Carbide material. From what I've been told quite a bit of the decrease in quality is due to a lower plasticizer content and EPA regulations which make it more expensive to produce plastics and rubbers that are more chemical resistant. Anyways, thumbs up on the video, if someone can get a bit more time out of something by doing it themself more power to them, even though I own a pool business I have an intex hot tub I've been repairing myself now for years so I can totally relate to DIY.
robwas Thanks for your comment. Where is your pool business? I so agree on the throw out world we are now in. I had a ten year break from the pool business and that was the biggest change. No one repaired anything anymore. MRT
@@Marksreviewsandtutorials I'm in Spotswood New Jersey, the name of my business is Bob's Pool Service. Believe it or not even having done pools for so many years I still learn a few new things watching youtube videos. It's a great community for the most part and I enjoy the kind of content you share. I put up some helpful videos on my business channel sometimes, I should put up more but sometimes life happens and we just get so busy it gets overlooked, maybe when I retire :)
No. they are different by brand and also size. Have a look at the link i put in the description you can chase down your correct gasket there with the chart
Hi Rose Marchant I’m in Victoria, Australia. Have a look for Nillumbik Pool & Spa Service on Facebook. I can supply you great prices on replacement equipment I ship all over our Nation. I also have a shop on FB under the same name.
mytexas days I find the best result with a flat screwdriver and some muscle. You must keep it flat though. The base has to be in good order to receive the new gasket.
Thank you for posting your pool related videos. They are very helpful.
dannystx 👍
Thank you for posting. Much easier than I thought after viewing your video.
Thanks for your comment.
I have also placed some links where you can purchase parts online in the description. I trust that helps as well. MRT
Great demo, much appreciated.
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for posting this and your other video on the handle maintenance. Just rebuilt mine today, and the videos made it much easier.
Thank you for posting, as well as for the helpful tips throughout your video!!
J Lo 👍
Clear instructions, clear explanations. Thanks !
Thanks Mark, very helpful. Can I ask what type of super glue do you use? can you get it from Bunnings?
Yes I just use a super glue gel. Make it a brand name not plain brand
Thanks for taking the time to reply Mark. Very helpful👍
Thanks for the video but I got told to put clear silicone I would not use superglue I done this job before
good video thanks for the help
Great video ,could the spider gasket condition cause pressure issues to the water return and make the handle loose aw well.? I don't wish to buy a new unit .Thanks in advance
If the gasket is leaking down other ports, then yes that will cause a loss of pressure
Hi, thanks for the vid, quick question, my multi port valve doesn't have screws, it has an attached clam system that needs to be tapped with a hammer and screwdriver to release and put back on, is it possible to accidentaly put these back into the wrong selections, ie filter now actually turns runse cycle on,,??
thanks u friend my information
Is "superglue" CA glue? I worry it can melt the rubber..
Hi Mark
Appreciate your video....have had water leak from my backwash pipe
I got a couple of quotes from pool guys to either repair or replace all (filter, chlorinator) but thought I would give it a go myself by starting to replace the most common problem....the spider gasket
Going to order gasket and multiport gasket (even though it looks ok)
I want to replace gasket insitu but noticed water just below gasket area
Any ideas how to slightly lower the water level ?
If I understand correctly you are saying the water level is sitting above the level of the spider gasket? Hopefully you have isolating valves that you can close to allow you to drain. Or disconnect the plumbing coming to the valve so the filter is disconnected from the pool.
If you are after a new Chlorinator see this.
The Best Saltwater Chlorinator in Australia by far. K Chlor Digital. Recommended by me Swimming Pool
ua-cam.com/video/WCNvIpNAtoc/v-deo.html
@@Marksreviewsandtutorials Thanks for the reply Mark
Actually the water level is (as I recall) just below the spider gasket, so I should be able to try and scrape/pull the old gasket out hopefully
Just afraid that I might drop some bits into the water
If I unscrew the lid off the pump/motor, would that drop some of the water level ?
BTW how much for the K Chlor digital ?
Thanks
Robert
@@robertjkal I just use a towel once I have the valve apart. To dry where the new glue will go and soak up any water close by. Please sms Nillumbik Pool & Spa Service with your pool size and location and I will size and then quote a K Chlor for you.
Mark
Nillumbik Pool & Spa Service
Hi Mark, Thank you for posting your video. Should I have to lubricate the top of the seal once the gasket is on?
I usually put some lube on the centre plastic and the inner ring. But It shouldn’t need lubricating as the handle should be depressed lifting it over the gasket whenever it is moved. MRT
Mark's reviews and tutorials Thanks again Mark!
Thanks for the video mate. Gasket successfully changed. 👍
Hi Mark
Once you have installed new spider gasket, how long do you leave it before reinstalling diverter and handle ?
I am on site for a service call when I do this so always straight away. Also you want the top plate to press the spider gasket flat while the glue is still flexible. MRT
@@Marksreviewsandtutorials Thanks Mark
Awaiting my new spider gasket in a few days, hope I can do it as well as you
Intex won't sell a replacement spider gasket! Help! I can't find to fit. They want me to buy a whole new 6 way!
Teresa Patzold Have a look at the links in the description section of this video. You can buy parts there. MRT
The rubber spider/spoke gasket system in a pool filter multivalve head works OK from new provided the pool pump is not too powerful, or is run at reduced power and speed if it's a multispeed pump.
Over time, the dissolved chlorine-based sanitiser in the pool water will damage the original rubber gasket, which is never made from a high-quality medical-grade chlorine resistant rubber, but from the cheapest butyl rubber that the PRC manufacturer can source.
Every spider/spoke gasket I've come across in Australia is glued by the filter maker during assembly into the holder. Why? Because a gasket seals the interface/join between two surfaces. In a hydrodynamic system like a pool sand-filter fed by a pool pump, the pressure under the gasket is the same as the pressure over the gasket. If the original gasket were not glued into place, then it would gradually lift out of the hard plastic seating, into which it has merely been tightly pushed (and glued) because there's no mechanical clipping or retention system in a cheap spider gasket. It's push fit plus glue only.
The manufacturer does not care that it's a bear of job to remove the original, glued gasket down the track. The manufacturer cares only that the gasket doesn't leak pool water across the gasket seal from the filter outlet into the waste outlet during the warranty period. After that, it's your problem.
And, yes, it s a very, very big problem for pool owners. Using a sharp knife and/or flat head screwdrivers, it's impossible to remove every last trace of the original gasket and the glue without damaging the hard plastic seating which only has thin, weak, brittle walls to hold the gasket in place.
So, even though you might think you've done a good job removing all the old gasket and glue without damaging the thin walls and narrow floor of the gasket seating - you haven't.
Remove the complete multivalve assembly, which I DO NOT recommend, photograph the narrow slot with an iPhone under good light, blow up the image, and you will see that your 'cleaned out' gasket retaining slot is still full of gunk that you haven't removed properly. You will also see that the plastic of the slot walls and the slot floor is badly scored and even broken in places where you have scraped out the gasket and glue with too much force for the thin plastic to withstand. Especially, if you have had to lever out some of the sections of the old gasket using your screwdriver tip.
What's the solution?
a) Buy a new, complete multiport filter valve assembly head with new gasket already fitted, and replace the sand/glass beads in the filter at the same time. You can keep the original fibreglass body unless it cracks when you try to unscrew the multiport, which often happens. In this option, you don't waste your time and energy trying vainly to replace the old spider/spoke rubber gasket, unless your pool pump can be operated on filter at sufficiently low pressure and slow speed to allow for the fact that you haven't been able to replace the gasket cleanly enough.
Option (b) use a new gasket plus a flexible gasket gap filling adhesive that will glue the new gasket firmly into place so that it can't lift, that will fill all the damage you did to the plastic gasket retainer when you scraped out the old gasket, and that will withstand the chemical attack of warm, chlorinated pool water, moving then standing when the pump is switched off.
There are very few, single pack, flexible adhesives that can bond flexible a rubber gasket a to hard plastic, that will flexibly fill gaps, and that can withstand saltwater damage and chlorine damage for the life of the rubber gasket.
The good news, however, is that your new rubber spider gasket will only last six months or so until you need to replace it with a new rubber spider gasket and new glue, having laboriously scraped out your replacement rubber spider gasket and glue as before.
FatMiddleAgedGuy Wow. Could you be more cynical next time you comment.
@@Marksreviewsandtutorials Nice tutorial shame you got the Fat Middle aged guy, we get them here in bars in Thailand when their lives collapse around them. They are so sad looking. A person like that won't fly aeroplanes safely or be an astronaut trying to repair stuff in space. Thailand is like space, you can't get a lot of tech stuff you can normally get anywhere else, in 24 hours - or at all!!!. So we now live in a "world of mend and make do [ww2 saying]" here in Siam. I'm a radio engineer and repair/fix/renovate everything across a wide range of electronics and generators, antennas and stuff I own across two large sites. I hate to throw anything away except parking fines.. In your clip (as others do) you use a hard glue, ok fine I agree it's required But! I am going to risk a test of Silicone High Temp RTV (red rubber) gasket-maker to hold the spider in place, I am going to rough up the spider base with fine emery too, and scrape the channel a bit. I've just repaired the top of my pressure vessel with a home made stainless steel replacement already. Prior to that I lined a crack in the plasticm from inside with RTV which actually held for six months good, until I accidentally back-pressured "water knocked" the system and really opened the crack. I noted the RTV was really difficult to get off but soft, hence I am gonna try it. So great, thanks for confirming the job requires a glue...and remember Siam may be a little challenged for supplies but 30C every day makes up for it...etc and shitloads of pools and pool guys! I pulled out in front of one and knocked his pickup into a ditch we were both fine...but that's another story..
@@Marksreviewsandtutorials Lol, I just read his comment and although it sounds cynical there are a lot of truths. I've owned a swimming pool business now for over 30 years and we get 100's of calls a year concerning leaking multiport valves. So turn back the clock 20 years ago and we used to carry spoke gaskets for every make and model of filter, we had 4 spoke, 5 spoke, 6 spoke and all different diameters, we also had new shaft o-rings and other parts for multiports. I repaired many units that after a repair would again last another 5 or even 10 years with zero issues. The problem today is these things are built out of such low grade materials if you replace the spoke gasket oftentimes the pressure spring or as the fat middle aged guy said the dividers will fail in only a couple of months. Incidentally what you used, super glue is the correct thing and it's what Hayward Pool Products even recommends. It is truly sad to see how much of a throw-away world it has become, most pool motors, filters, pumps and support equipment lasts 3-7 years with the average repair occuring around 4 years but often within one and just out of warranty. Liners can still last 12 years if you maintain good chemistry but the old ones lasted 30 that were made with Union Carbide material. From what I've been told quite a bit of the decrease in quality is due to a lower plasticizer content and EPA regulations which make it more expensive to produce plastics and rubbers that are more chemical resistant. Anyways, thumbs up on the video, if someone can get a bit more time out of something by doing it themself more power to them, even though I own a pool business I have an intex hot tub I've been repairing myself now for years so I can totally relate to DIY.
robwas Thanks for your comment.
Where is your pool business? I so agree on the throw out world we are now in. I had a ten year break from the pool business and that was the biggest change. No one repaired anything anymore. MRT
@@Marksreviewsandtutorials I'm in Spotswood New Jersey, the name of my business is Bob's Pool Service. Believe it or not even having done pools for so many years I still learn a few new things watching youtube videos. It's a great community for the most part and I enjoy the kind of content you share. I put up some helpful videos on my business channel sometimes, I should put up more but sometimes life happens and we just get so busy it gets overlooked, maybe when I retire :)
Are all gasket the same
No. they are different by brand and also size. Have a look at the link i put in the description you can chase down your correct gasket there with the chart
Super ... très précis. Merci
So glad it helped. 😃
Awesome can u be my pool guy, Queensland where u at
Hi Rose Marchant
I’m in Victoria, Australia.
Have a look for Nillumbik Pool & Spa Service on Facebook.
I can supply you great prices on replacement equipment I ship all over our Nation. I also have a shop on FB under the same name.
My old spider gasket is glued in and I can't get it out. Alcohol and acetone are no help.
mytexas days I find the best result with a flat screwdriver and some muscle. You must keep it flat though. The base has to be in good order to receive the new gasket.
Do you use a lubricant on top of seal after replacing? Something like Vaseline gel.
Hi there. No not Vaseline that stretches the rubber.
Use Silicon lubricant, i have put a link in the description for you to get some good stuff.
Prowide this video in Hindi language