I'm an old steam turbine mechanic on a nuke ship where accuracy is critical - you are pretty awesome at attention to detail fitting bearings. I'm a bit jealous as I never had a clean area nor much room to do it - just a deck plate to lay everything out on. LOLOL!! Great, great video.
I used to be an inspector for aerospace components, so accuracy with precesion measuring tools is a must 🙌 sometimes people are cool with plastic gauge but I could never trust it 😅 The deck works though! 💪
The amount of effort and time you've put into this is absolutely legendary of you, no surprise your content continues to be amazing and educational. I doubt I'd be personally doing this myself but it's still great to know more of how it works and what SHOULD be done even if it's just to ask people how/what they did to a car you might buy, not to mention to query sketchy mechanics.
How dare you break the golden rule of never sharing your clearances with the public 😂 Thats holy grail information haha. But im glad, to hear what other builders are doing in comparison to my own 👊
THANK you. I have been looking for just this video. Step by step, all the information, no fluff, no details withheld, no ads, all in a single video, start to finish. Brilliant, and needed.
I am currently rebuilding my ej25 after a piston grenaded, this will aide me in the process of the rebuild. I subbed on the simple fact that I understood everything you said.
Very good job! I know you like outfront they do good work, just one thing you should know, they only do a mainline hone not bore, which follows the existing line of the mains, until the clean them up for roundness & target size. A mainline bore would be reestablish og the datum of mainline & boring them to target size, typically you would cut .005” of each case halve then remove .010” while boring mainline, then bore rear main seal back to size. Will be a straight/round/true mainline & you can run tighter main bearing clearence .0015” +/-.0001” for 600+whp for sub 500whp can run as tight as .001” & have amazing oil pressure & lower oil temps ect for road racing. I ran a 10mm oil pump on single AVCS seeing 70psi hot oil pressure at 8k rpm & had great oil temps, at willow springs. I live in desert. For daily/drag stuff line hone is fine. Only couple shops do line boring on these, person who did my previous motors doesn’t do public work anymore. I really want to get a 4axis mill & sunnen engine hone, along with a sunnen 1804/1660 hone for rods, ect at home just so I can machine blocks, do fluid heater & also use block heaters to machine everything at operating temp! That’s where it will become race team level machining
Thank you so much for the amazing video. Watched it so many times as I built my short block. Thank you for all 🙏😊 I greatly appreciate you. Your content is great.
The Presicion is key definitely. And in my opinion the way you do things is immaculate. I’ve learn so much about subies just by watching your vids man. Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge. 🔥💯🔥🙏🙏
Definately need this video for the future cause I’m going to try doing my own engine and it’s also going to be my first engine to work at. I’ve been doing some mechanic work here and there but never on the engine and this is going to be my fist time so for sure I’m going to use this video
@@Smeedia yea bro I’ll take my time taking it apart and assembling it too cause this is going to be something veryyyyyyyyyy scary for me 😂😂 I’m pretty scared
Great content as always Tanner. As for rod bolts experience has always made me lean towards bolt stretch rather than bolt torque alone. I have found on numerous occasions that when the bolts don't reach their proper yield point that they can back out at times and that's always a big hazard. Seeing as doing bolt stretch is not so much of a hassle, I see it as a very good precautionary measure.
Watching Harry Potter with the fam, but ill be back tonight to watch the video! P.s. love how you are in the comments for a bit after the video drops means a lot!
Getting alot of deja vu from my VW bug motor build. If VW still made the rear engined bug, it would probably resemble this motor! Very insightful vid! (Makes me wanna do a sube swap in my bug)
@@Smeedia main hang up is tolerances, how do you know what tolerances and piston ring gaps should be? Do you go off of oem specs or if you want more hp is it different?
😭😭😭😭 I’m still trying to go turbo cause all I have is a 2.5 rs engine and u trying to hit 800 😂😂😂 thats neat thought hope u hit them or even more than u could expect
You covered it all but many people would rather pay to have it all done for themselves. Pay the money people and limit the stress of doing yourself. 🙌🏽#Smeedia!!
i can really see this both ways. i for sure would want to pay someone to make sure its done correctly. to have a reputable shop perform the build would instill confidence in the engine. however, building the thing myself would instill confidence in me. would love to be able to do both. this video is giving me the extra push to do it myself. truly great content!
I purchased a IAG tuff short block and had a shop I thought was a IAG certified shop do my build. My engine lasted 700 miles and suffered catastrophic failure from normal break in driving. I contacted IAG. They had me ship the engine to them. They completely evaluated the engine and determined it was due to the shop reusing my old heads and not cleaning them properly which had shavings inside. IAG said I should have never used a shop that wasn’t certified to work on their engines. It was heartbreaking. They gave me 50% off on the next short block which was very generous. I spent $12,500 on the first build and the shop didn’t refund me any money. So I spent $14,000 on the 2nd build. It was a huge kick in the stomach but I love my car and I sucked it up and pushed forward. Tanner is very confident, skilled, passionate, persistent, motivated and inspiring. He’s helped many people gain the confidence and know how to do many things that are actually complicated steps but when done strategically they can come out just as good or better than a shop.
A con rod holding tool would have been nice, potentially stopping any twist induced to the rod during torquing in vice... As an automotive tech I was very interested in the assembly sequence for this engine ... FAR different to old VW air cooled units with the piston installation sequence .. Enjoying all your videos - CHEERS 👍🏻
Awesome video Tanner! I watched all your other engine building videos, and those are super helpful as well but this one is very comprehensive and complete. This is so helpful! Let me know how I can make a donation to your channel please 🔥🔥🔥🔥
I keep watching this to help me with my rebuild. Tomorrow I start rebuilding so wish me luck!!!!! Thank you for all your tech help man. I’ll keep updating you on instagram too.
@smeedia I know this is an old video but im almost 100% sure those rod bolts are 3/8" on the Manley H beam and tq is 60ftlbs. 90ftlbs for the 7/16" Did this motor survive?
@adamjohnson6701 Build your main tolerance tighter too, .002-.0025 is too loose for these motors. Oem spec is .0004-.0012. I had to run king -.001 bearings to get down to .0015 on the mains. Rods im going .002-.0025
Squeeze out…. What about the “inner” squeeze out? Could that possibly cause a problem? I’ve watched this video 4 times now and that’s what always stands out to me. Thanks in advance (I know this is an older video, but considering you do more “newer” cars, I’m using this one as a reference for a rebuild I’m planning) **2004 ej25 H4 n/a there are not many rebuild videos out there for an older ej. Thanks again!
Another banger of a video thanks doggie. Bro you should totally do a full build of a clean 04-08 forester or 05-09 outback xt. The outback xt are dope as hell and my favorite subaru ive ever had, but always wanted a forester which are sexy as well. Could you make it happen?
@Smeedia that would be so sick I hope you film the build 🙏 I'm guessing that you will since that's what you do 🤣 any idea of when it's going to be built? Summer next year?
Thank you very much for all of your hard work it’s really really much appreciated, we know how hard it is to put together this videos and share it with us!…. As I type this is up two days ago I did a compression test on my 04 sti and cylinder 4 has 10psi 😢so now I have to do a leak down test to see if it’s bottom end or heads I might be using your videos to build my engine, I have to find a local shop that would machine the short block I just don’t know if I should do this myself or have them do the pistons, rods, crank, piston, bearing, install etc. as I have never got to that part yet. You make it seem kinda easy 😅 I am in Canada by the way so not much options here. My results for compression test are : 1. 121 2. 120 3. 90 Also low !! ? 4. 10 All dry tested might do a wet test. What are your thoughts ? For sure I need a new build engine, the car has 190k miles is US 2.5 L and did timing belt kit in April 2022. Any suggestions will be appreciated. From you or community. Thank you and God bless!
Update : I did a leak down test yesterday with warm engine and cylinder 1 and 2 air scapes from oil fill up, piston rings bad, when I tested cylinder 4 low compression cylinder air scapes from cylinder 2? So bad head gasket ? And when I tested cylinder 3 air seem to scape from cylinder 4 ?? I am baffled!! Lol anyhow I know I have to rebuild my engine, As I am still getting the engine light on misfire on cylinder number 4 at least now I know why.
let’s go definitely will use this in the future for my wrx hatch as of right now im rebuilding my 05 sti and im putting an ra short block in and i was wondering what gasket kit should i use and what will fit will 05 head gaskets fit the type ra short block or would i need to get 2018+ gaskets
For some reason. Having my blown up EJ IN the car helps my mental more than pulling it out, and having it sit in 200 pieces that I’ll never put back together. But, I keep seeing this guy build them and it’s lulling me into a false sense of capability. I guess worst case scenario I still have an STI that doesn’t work
Amazing as usual.. but dude.. get used to METRIC.. mm are so much better than x/x Inch.. you get used to it quicker than you think.. just be aware you will love it.
Hey man awesome vid. Thanks for the detailed explanation. Are you self taught, did you get a degree in this field, did you do an apprenticeship or did you learn from others? Or, is it a combo? Thanks!
Great video. I’m planning on rebuilding a naturally aspirated all original 2.5 (2006) forester short block. Would I still need to carry out crank and case measurements if I was just replacing standard main and big end bearings (non-turbo/SOHC)? Motor has only done 210,000 Kms (120,000miles). Basically I have weeping (oil) original head gaskets and thought while I have the motor out, might as well do bearings and rings. Thoughts?
@@Smeediathat exactly what I wanted to hear. I have a quart of the redline and didn’t wanna waste it but I trust your product knowledge immensely and was willing to make the switch if you though it was a better product.
I've never seen anyone check the clearances between the pistons, wrist pins, and small ends. Why isn't that as critical as the big ends and the main journals?
Do you recommend ATF or a thin oil coating on the bearing to rod/block when installing and checking clearances? I know some engine builders like a thin film of lubrication for that metal-metal contact. Specifically referring to Real Street. I imagine it's a very small detail that's probably engine builder specific.
It's on there. Just looked like it wasn't on camera 😅🙏 Good catch on that because that one I had to go back and do before flipping the engine back down lol 😆
I love how thorough you are but, man, metric is 1000x easier to use. 0.1mm is 0.00394 inches, which is easier to use? I made the same suggestion to Gingium on UA-cam, and surprisingly he switched!
@@DreamInVader360 I do mechanical design, and it's a pain working with so many decimals when trying to make things symmetrical, and accounting for material thickness. Luckily we're transitioning to metric, which will make tolerances, and general design much simpler.
Do you need to lube the cylinder walls when you push the piston heads in with all the rings? I saw you put oil in the piston side skirts but wasnt sure about the cylinder walls
I'm an old steam turbine mechanic on a nuke ship where accuracy is critical - you are pretty awesome at attention to detail fitting bearings. I'm a bit jealous as I never had a clean area nor much room to do it - just a deck plate to lay everything out on. LOLOL!! Great, great video.
I used to be an inspector for aerospace components, so accuracy with precesion measuring tools is a must 🙌 sometimes people are cool with plastic gauge but I could never trust it 😅
The deck works though! 💪
@@Smeediathat’s like a awesome job
Watching you do this gives me wayyy too much confidence in myself to try it
You can do it 🫣🔥
@@Smeedia the man himself said I can, gotta try now
30:38 if you quickly bolt up the flywheel and use it as a stand it really helps steady the crank while you’re tightening the rods down.
That's not a bad idea right there 👀
Wisdom given freely and accepted with modesty. Love to see it!
The amount of effort and time you've put into this is absolutely legendary of you, no surprise your content continues to be amazing and educational.
I doubt I'd be personally doing this myself but it's still great to know more of how it works and what SHOULD be done even if it's just to ask people how/what they did to a car you might buy, not to mention to query sketchy mechanics.
Always cool to get an inside look at into them 🥳🫡
I know it late on this question but.... Is it true you can make 500 crank on OEM Case bolts?@@Smeedia
How dare you break the golden rule of never sharing your clearances with the public 😂 Thats holy grail information haha. But im glad, to hear what other builders are doing in comparison to my own 👊
I've always been a DIY person, it would feel wrong to withhold information 😅
@@SmeediaThank you🙏
Heads next?? Love watching these super high quality videos of yours! Thank you sir!
I can do a set of heads soon 🙌
This ain't no smeedia video,
Its a movie!
🫡🫡🫡🫡
THANK you. I have been looking for just this video. Step by step, all the information, no fluff, no details withheld, no ads, all in a single video, start to finish. Brilliant, and needed.
Love this type of content, thank you!
Thanks!
Always appreciate the support Joe 🙌🫡
I am currently rebuilding my ej25 after a piston grenaded, this will aide me in the process of the rebuild. I subbed on the simple fact that I understood everything you said.
Very good job! I know you like outfront they do good work, just one thing you should know, they only do a mainline hone not bore, which follows the existing line of the mains, until the clean them up for roundness & target size.
A mainline bore would be reestablish og the datum of mainline & boring them to target size, typically you would cut .005” of each case halve then remove .010” while boring mainline, then bore rear main seal back to size. Will be a straight/round/true mainline & you can run tighter main bearing clearence .0015” +/-.0001” for 600+whp for sub 500whp can run as tight as .001” & have amazing oil pressure & lower oil temps ect for road racing. I ran a 10mm oil pump on single AVCS seeing 70psi hot oil pressure at 8k rpm & had great oil temps, at willow springs. I live in desert. For daily/drag stuff line hone is fine. Only couple shops do line boring on these, person who did my previous motors doesn’t do public work anymore.
I really want to get a 4axis mill & sunnen engine hone, along with a sunnen 1804/1660 hone for rods, ect at home just so I can machine blocks, do fluid heater & also use block heaters to machine everything at operating temp! That’s where it will become race team level machining
What an awesome, useful video. Smeedia does it yet again.
Thank you so much for the amazing video. Watched it so many times as I built my short block. Thank you for all 🙏😊 I greatly appreciate you. Your content is great.
49:23 Craftsman 44996. Such a smooth 1/2 drive ratchet 😎
Why do you know the rachet part number? 😅
I’m a tool nerd 🤓
Building my first EJ (I usually do 2JZ) but this video made me so much more confident in doing it.
The Presicion is key definitely. And in my opinion the way you do things is immaculate. I’ve learn so much about subies just by watching your vids man. Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge. 🔥💯🔥🙏🙏
I'm glad that i can share and send a bit more insight out there 🫡
This is a very helpful and tip full video you should do the heads and caps and shims and the rest please! Keep it up its awesome
I live in taiwan ,love the videos you made , the video goes into great detail , thank you very much for sharing !
This is such a good video! Thank you for taking the time to break it down seems doable and not as scary as i thought this would be.
It's not nearly as bad as people make it out to seam 🙏
My thoughts exactly!
I am literally looking into rebuilding my ej25 H4 in my 04 Impreza wagon (n/a) and this is exactly what I was looking for!! Thanks you so much!!!!
When I finally got to rebuild I will not forget TANG 2 TANG 😂 amazing video as usual dude the clearances freak me out
TANG TO TANG lol
Definately need this video for the future cause I’m going to try doing my own engine and it’s also going to be my first engine to work at. I’ve been doing some mechanic work here and there but never on the engine and this is going to be my fist time so for sure I’m going to use this video
Eyyy good luck with it when the time comes and just make sure to take your time when going through it 🫡🙌
@@Smeedia yea bro I’ll take my time taking it apart and assembling it too cause this is going to be something veryyyyyyyyyy scary for me 😂😂 I’m pretty scared
Working on my first time ever Subaru build. Your videos are amazing! Thank you!!
I’m tired just watching you build this motor. I can only imagine how long it will take me when the day comes
It won't take ya too long, thr longest part of it is just measuring everything 🙏
hard to find people doing videos like this, nice job man really great walk throughs
Thanks William 🫡🙏
what a great video! loved the step by step break down. this made me want to build one myself. i am rewatching this in the future!
Its not as bad as it seems 🫡🙌
Might have taken me last night and today to finish it, but this is a great video! I’ll be saving this for sure
Eyyy. Thanks Matt 🫡🙌
Words cant describe the joy from seeing this video in my fyp😃😃
🎉🎉🎉🎉
Great content as always Tanner. As for rod bolts experience has always made me lean towards bolt stretch rather than bolt torque alone. I have found on numerous occasions that when the bolts don't reach their proper yield point that they can back out at times and that's always a big hazard. Seeing as doing bolt stretch is not so much of a hassle, I see it as a very good precautionary measure.
Yoyo first, we like seeing built motors!! 🙌😃
Yo yo yo 🙌
This video has nothing to do with me what’s so ever. I just like watching your content.
Always appreciate the support 🫡🙏
Watching Harry Potter with the fam, but ill be back tonight to watch the video!
P.s. love how you are in the comments for a bit after the video drops means a lot!
I try to seing through the comments whenever I can 🫡
Enjoy Mr. POTTER! I still need to finish the series 😅
Getting alot of deja vu from my VW bug motor build. If VW still made the rear engined bug, it would probably resemble this motor! Very insightful vid! (Makes me wanna do a sube swap in my bug)
NICE been wanting to build my ej20 and love detailed builds need more this it
Had a couple engines to assemble so figured a detailed DIY walk through would be a good addition to get out there 🙌🫡
@@Smeedia main hang up is tolerances, how do you know what tolerances and piston ring gaps should be? Do you go off of oem specs or if you want more hp is it different?
i'm in the process of planning out my 800whp build, going to be fun to do this myself
Yassss, enjoy the process 🙌🫡
😭😭😭😭 I’m still trying to go turbo cause all I have is a 2.5 rs engine and u trying to hit 800 😂😂😂 thats neat thought hope u hit them or even more than u could expect
Will you be showing us the rest of this motor assembly?
I can 🙏🙏
@@Smeediaplease do!
@Smeedia that would be awesome 👌 thanks for another banger 🔥
Tanner out here doing the lords work! 💪🙏🙏
Trying to help where I can 🫡🙏
Oh good, im glad i decided to go with Outfront for mine too.
You covered it all but many people would rather pay to have it all done for themselves. Pay the money people and limit the stress of doing yourself. 🙌🏽#Smeedia!!
True but for those who do want to diy it, they definitely can 🙌🫡
i can really see this both ways. i for sure would want to pay someone to make sure its done correctly. to have a reputable shop perform the build would instill confidence in the engine. however, building the thing myself would instill confidence in me. would love to be able to do both. this video is giving me the extra push to do it myself. truly great content!
@@philiplytlenothing like the feeling of ripping around with a motor you built yourself
I agree with you both as well. Amazing content again! ❤
I purchased a IAG tuff short block and had a shop I thought was a IAG certified shop do my build. My engine lasted 700 miles and suffered catastrophic failure from normal break in driving. I contacted IAG. They had me ship the engine to them. They completely evaluated the engine and determined it was due to the shop reusing my old heads and not cleaning them properly which had shavings inside. IAG said I should have never used a shop that wasn’t certified to work on their engines. It was heartbreaking. They gave me 50% off on the next short block which was very generous. I spent $12,500 on the first build and the shop didn’t refund me any money. So I spent $14,000 on the 2nd build. It was a huge kick in the stomach but I love my car and I sucked it up and pushed forward. Tanner is very confident, skilled, passionate, persistent, motivated and inspiring. He’s helped many people gain the confidence and know how to do many things that are actually complicated steps but when done strategically they can come out just as good or better than a shop.
Awsome video you made it look way too easy, I’m just wondering if there’s a reason for not putting assembly lube on the wrist pins?
I had some 20w50 on 🫡 would not suggest teying to slam em in dry 😅
My EJ is here I Perth just waiting for you
🫣🫣🫣
A con rod holding tool would have been nice, potentially stopping any twist induced to the rod during torquing in vice... As an automotive tech I was very interested in the assembly sequence for this engine ... FAR different to old VW air cooled units with the piston installation sequence .. Enjoying all your videos - CHEERS 👍🏻
That's someone on my list to snag, one if those tools that's been on my list that I haven't ordered yet. 🙌
Awesome video Tanner! I watched all your other engine building videos, and those are super helpful as well but this one is very comprehensive and complete. This is so helpful! Let me know how I can make a donation to your channel please 🔥🔥🔥🔥
You don't gotta do that my man's 🙏 just want to get some more videos out to help out where I can 🙌
I want to see a DEEP dive into which hoses and all of the manifold stuff to do to beautify it. Like what can be gotten rid of and stuff like that
I can make that happen when I do the 07 🙏
@@Smeedia always the best man.
Please keep making content like this
Thanks for sharing your knowledge 🙏🏻 😊
THANK YOU, oh my gosh you just saved me a ton of time.
Love this! can't wait to start my rebuild on my own the rings intimidate me honestly lol
I keep watching this to help me with my rebuild. Tomorrow I start rebuilding so wish me luck!!!!! Thank you for all your tech help man. I’ll keep updating you on instagram too.
Brilliant video dude
OUTSTANDING!!!!!!
😎👍🏻👍🏻
🫡🫡🫡🫡🫡
Great footage and info 💯🙌 Educational etc. wish i was this interested in School subjects 🤷🏼♂️😇🤘🤘
Awesome video mate 🔥🔥
Eyyy, thank you 🙏🙏🙏
Thank you for this!
Just wondering... @ 34:10 did you intentionally not put gasket maker around that one hole?
I missed it at first, went back and got it before setting the engine down 🙏
Great video! Are you going to do a head rebuild video and a final assembly video too?
Hi tanner, can you help us 5speed Mt owners with a trans rebuilds and tear downs or even assembly... love all of your build videos and contents
Right way to grind piston ring gaps is towards the inside of the rings, so as not to leave anything that could scratch the bore. My 2 cents. Good job
I've tried that in the past but always end up with an uneven gap. Could be because the cheapo ring grinder though
@@Smeedia another doubt is your ring gaps, isn't that a little too tight for 500hp? According to manley piston sheet formula it should be wider.
Need this for an FA20!
@smeedia I know this is an old video but im almost 100% sure those rod bolts are 3/8" on the Manley H beam and tq is 60ftlbs. 90ftlbs for the 7/16" Did this motor survive?
I’m building one now and you’re right @Hoongoon177. Manley suggest 50-60 ft/lb? Now I’m confused. Did this engine survive. Great vids as always
@adamjohnson6701 Build your main tolerance tighter too, .002-.0025 is too loose for these motors. Oem spec is .0004-.0012. I had to run king -.001 bearings to get down to .0015 on the mains. Rods im going .002-.0025
Is there a reason why you don't de-burr the engine rings after you gap them?
Edge broke them with a file, just diddent think to film that part 🙏
Squeeze out…. What about the “inner” squeeze out? Could that possibly cause a problem? I’ve watched this video 4 times now and that’s what always stands out to me. Thanks in advance (I know this is an older video, but considering you do more “newer” cars, I’m using this one as a reference for a rebuild I’m planning) **2004 ej25 H4 n/a there are not many rebuild videos out there for an older ej. Thanks again!
Now I need to get stationed at JBLM so I can have you drop one in my car 🤔
Do itttttttt 👀👀👀👀
I love this video, however, have you ever used shellac for sealing blocks together
Absolutely monumental video man, thank you. Can you tell me what torque wrenches you are using?
Another banger of a video thanks doggie. Bro you should totally do a full build of a clean 04-08 forester or 05-09 outback xt. The outback xt are dope as hell and my favorite subaru ive ever had, but always wanted a forester which are sexy as well. Could you make it happen?
*Forester xt might I add*
We have one here that needs to be built at some point 😅
@Smeedia that would be so sick I hope you film the build 🙏 I'm guessing that you will since that's what you do 🤣 any idea of when it's going to be built? Summer next year?
Thank you very much for all of your hard work it’s really really much appreciated, we know how hard it is to put together this videos and share it with us!…. As I type this is up two days ago I did a compression test on my 04 sti and cylinder 4 has 10psi 😢so now I have to do a leak down test to see if it’s bottom end or heads I might be using your videos to build my engine, I have to find a local shop that would machine the short block I just don’t know if I should do this myself or have them do the pistons, rods, crank, piston, bearing, install etc. as I have never got to that part yet. You make it seem kinda easy 😅 I am in Canada by the way so not much options here. My results for compression test are :
1. 121
2. 120
3. 90 Also low !! ?
4. 10
All dry tested might do a wet test. What are your thoughts ? For sure I need a new build engine, the car has 190k miles is US 2.5 L and did timing belt kit in April 2022. Any suggestions will be appreciated. From you or community. Thank you and God bless!
Update : I did a leak down test yesterday with warm engine and cylinder 1 and 2 air scapes from oil fill up, piston rings bad, when I tested cylinder 4 low compression cylinder air scapes from cylinder 2? So bad head gasket ? And when I tested cylinder 3 air seem to scape from cylinder 4 ?? I am baffled!! Lol anyhow I know I have to rebuild my engine, As I am still getting the engine light on misfire on cylinder number 4 at least now I know why.
I prefer ZFDesign in Colorado over Outfront.
Thank you so much ❤
Always love the content🫶🏻 building wrx to the moon
Alqays appreciate the support 🫡 had a couple blocks to build so figured I'd make a DIY on one of em.
Your video is very, very educational, man. I only have one question. How do you calculate the bearing tolerance based on WHP?
Teach us master 🤓🤓🤓
Very well done 🚀🚀🚀
Would you ever do one as well for the fa20/fa22 dit?
So basically you have to buy 2 sets of all the bolts right? first one for all these measurements and second one for the actual build
Fantastic vid! How do you find out what ring gaps to go with? I have a turbo ej20.
full EJ20 build next please dad?
Pretty much same same as this 🙏
let’s go definitely will use this in the future for my wrx hatch as of right now im rebuilding my 05 sti and im putting an ra short block in and i was wondering what gasket kit should i use and what will fit will 05 head gaskets fit the type ra short block or would i need to get 2018+ gaskets
Same same for head gaskets, just get a gasket and seal kit for a 05 🫡🙏
congratulations 🎉🎉
For some reason. Having my blown up EJ IN the car helps my mental more than pulling it out, and having it sit in 200 pieces that I’ll never put back together. But, I keep seeing this guy build them and it’s lulling me into a false sense of capability. I guess worst case scenario I still have an STI that doesn’t work
You can 100% do it. I promise these things are not too bad to tear down and put back together 🫡🙏
Amazing as usual.. but dude.. get used to METRIC.. mm are so much better than x/x Inch.. you get used to it quicker than you think.. just be aware you will love it.
Great video .Now do the heads
Perfect video.. How much the cost for a short block like it.. do you sale short block like it. ???
Also can you add the sealant to the two case halves after the crank has been placed ?
Hey man awesome vid. Thanks for the detailed explanation. Are you self taught, did you get a degree in this field, did you do an apprenticeship or did you learn from others? Or, is it a combo? Thanks!
Great video.
I’m planning on rebuilding a naturally aspirated all original 2.5 (2006) forester short block.
Would I still need to carry out crank and case measurements if I was just replacing standard main and big end bearings (non-turbo/SOHC)?
Motor has only done 210,000 Kms (120,000miles).
Basically I have weeping (oil) original head gaskets and thought while I have the motor out, might as well do bearings and rings.
Thoughts?
Yo boss, im goin home early smeedia posted
Eyyyy 😅🙌
As always Mr Smeedia a great vid/movie. So impressed I subscribed to your channel. Have you considered Merch?
Hey dude! Great stuff. How much do you think you save building the motor yourself. Thinking of building my own.
saving this for when i can find a blown EJ for my legacy to build 😂
Where do you get your case halves from?
Do you prefer the permatex over the redline assembly lube now?
Not really, I prefer the redline but was out and have like 4 bottles of the permatex sitting around that I need to use up
@@Smeediathat exactly what I wanted to hear. I have a quart of the redline and didn’t wanna waste it but I trust your product knowledge immensely and was willing to make the switch if you though it was a better product.
Shouldnt you bolt on torque plates when measuring the mains? Bc it simulates the distortion the heads cause when bolted onto the case halves.
I've never seen anyone check the clearances between the pistons, wrist pins, and small ends. Why isn't that as critical as the big ends and the main journals?
Wrist pin clearance is something I'm going to start doing. Piston to wall clearance I let the machine shop take care of.
Do you recommend ATF or a thin oil coating on the bearing to rod/block when installing and checking clearances? I know some engine builders like a thin film of lubrication for that metal-metal contact. Specifically referring to Real Street. I imagine it's a very small detail that's probably engine builder specific.
I've seen some people do it, it's not something that I've ever done. But I don't see it hurting anything to do it.
looks like you missed sealant around the top #5 main bolt.
It's on there. Just looked like it wasn't on camera 😅🙏
Good catch on that because that one I had to go back and do before flipping the engine back down lol 😆
I love how thorough you are but, man, metric is 1000x easier to use. 0.1mm is 0.00394 inches, which is easier to use? I made the same suggestion to Gingium on UA-cam, and surprisingly he switched!
Tbh imperal is easier imo for stuff like this for me at least 🙏 I did aerospace inspection for a few years and I'm so use to using it at this point 😅
@@Smeedia I will never get it, just doesn't make sense lol
I'm in aerospace as well and can't fathom using metric even though I know it's simpler and probably easier 😅
@@DreamInVader360 I do mechanical design, and it's a pain working with so many decimals when trying to make things symmetrical, and accounting for material thickness. Luckily we're transitioning to metric, which will make tolerances, and general design much simpler.
And I’m here, first may I add
Early AF 🙌🫡
Do you need to lube the cylinder walls when you push the piston heads in with all the rings? I saw you put oil in the piston side skirts but wasnt sure about the cylinder walls
What's a good place to buy used case halves from?