Older N Scale Locomotive Upgrade
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- Опубліковано 14 січ 2025
- In this video I am performing an older N scale locomotive upgrade. I recently purchase a twenty year old Kato locomotive that was like new in the box. To run on my layout it needed a DCC decoder, Micro Trains Lines couplers, and the buyer-installed details added. Watch as I upgrade this older N scale locomotive and get it running on my layout.
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Credits:
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To see more about upgrading and maintaining model locomotives, check this out: tinyurl.com/a9dms7pv
Nice clear install. I have a few locomotives that I need to convert to DCC.
Thanks for the shout out Ron !!
Absolutely Mike. Tha ks for the great "vintage" locomotive. 👍🏼👍🏼
@@RonsTrainsNThings Glad you found her !!
You said Buddy :). All in all a great video. You make it feel if they are old, but for me I run that style KATO mech. They are very solid runners.
Great explanation , I found that the new DIGITRAX decoder are very tin and I had to thicken with solder then wedge file a bit the board where it slip in the slots on the front
Wow I was born 2004 and am getting back into the hobby, this is crayzy
I recently did a DCC upgrade to my GE ES44AC as 5749 and I am happy to have converted it with no bang or smoke 😅. I'm happy.
Great video. Thanks for the info on Mike. I didn’t realize he brokered used equipment as well.
I have an Atlas RS3 that I am putting micro trains couplers on. The holes for mounting the couplers don’t line up.
No way, I literally got this same exact engine at my local train shop in thoer used section a few months ago. I also love it!
Not aware that the K1C had changed at all. To me, the Kapton tape is more for the brush tabs that extend down from the decoder to not touch the frame. Since Digitrax saw fit to give you the Kapton tape, it is better to apply it and not need it, than need it and set loose the smoke chip.
It has changed from it's predecessor, the K1A, which was not insulated on the bottom in any way and needed the kapton tape. The insulation on the bottom of the K1C makes the kapton tape on top of the frame completely unnecessary.
another clear video explanation Ron
Great video. Thanks for sharing.
Good video thanks lee
Your videos (especially the ones on track cleaning are excellent!) and those on What’s Neat are my first two go sources for information and “company” as I work on my HO railroad Thank you.
HI RON THX FOR THE SHARE NEW SUB 😊😊👍👍
Thanks Ron! Great tutorial! I nearly bought that Loco! Glad I left it for you! It fits your style and layout perfectly! Keep up the good work!
always great videos.... kudos to you
As always, your instructions are clear slow and detailed. Though I do not model N scale, I still enjoyed watching you work on such a small engine. Thanks, Rom.
Fun Fact: Alaska railroad got their paint scheme from the executive paint scheme that BNSF used.
That is interesting. I did not know that. Thanks, Joe.
If you use 2004 coupler boxes there is no need to modify the opening on the pilot,if the couplers are too high use parts from 1015 in the 2004 box
Agreed. I simply did not have any 2004s on hand and it takes me a bit to get them with no local source.
Thanks for this. I recently got a couple of used C30-7 that still have their original Kato couplers and I was wondering which coupler type might be a good fit.
I use MTL product code: 001 02 051 under slung coupler set, and it slides right in and you can use the Kato coupler clamp bracket to install them. The coupler high is better than MTL product code 1015/1016.
This is exactly what I needed, same locomotive and it really could use the upgrade. I’m also in need of putting micro-trains wheel sets and couplers on all my Kato starter stuff rolling stock. In general does rolling stock look better with the short shanks or get some long shanks to have on hand and “play it by ear?”
Generally you will prefer short shanks.
hello ron it's is randy and i like yours video is cool thanks and supper cool youtube video thanks ron and i like locomotives : emd sd7omac 9647 thanks ron friends randy .... and i am a big fan's ron's train
Great video as always! What is your recommended brand of solvent cement?
Personally I buy MEK, keep a couple ounces in a bottle and melt a little styrene in it for filler. Commercially the Plastruct products are great.
@@RonsTrainsNThings Thanks sir!
Hi Ron great videos. Are you interested in purchasing any rollicking stock and an older atlas loco? I’m visually impaired and can no longer use them.
I have a question. Loved the video, but I noticed you did not install the rear hood light on the dcc board. Was this deliberate as I normally have to desolder those and apply them to the new board. Just curious.
The board had a factory real light.
Why does Kato still insist on using such garbage couplers?