Just curious, because I'm looking to do this upgrade, why not just loosen the leadscrew itself from the lower coupler? Then you can just turn that singular lead screw. Or does the way the belts run prevent this?
My original thought was similar, but the mechanical arrangement wasn't as I thought. Once I got in there I could see that I could have loosened the set screw on each driven gear, but they were not easy to get at and I figured loosening the belt would be easier. Ultimately loosening the belt wasn't loose enough so I had to remove it. So loosening the set screws at the driven pullies may in fact be easier. YMMV
To clarify, in the first video I did right before this one, I thought I was loosening a coupler at the bottom, but turned out to be not a coupler, but simply a shaft collar I inferred to lock the height of the lead screw on top of the bearing, but I left it out of that video because it didn't show anything helpful other than a failed method.
SORRY TO SAY but this was a complete waste of time the best way to do this is , manual bed leveling, get 4 orange ender screws, 4 m4x70x50 machine bolts and 4 wing nuts. use these items to create 4 handles below the bed, the height of the screws in congunction with the spring will lift the bed, allow for the expansion of th ebed when hot. to calibrate, go into fluidd and run screws tilt macro, left front is your base get this as close to 00.00, raise and lower with the wing nuts front right,rear right,rear left till within 00.04 variance of the base. its possible, ive done it, you can go all the way to 00.00 variance on all corners if you have the time, mine is within 00.01 variance on all corners and has stayed that way for months with the above solution. you need 7 dollars and to go to your local hardware store thats it
Just curious, because I'm looking to do this upgrade, why not just loosen the leadscrew itself from the lower coupler? Then you can just turn that singular lead screw. Or does the way the belts run prevent this?
My original thought was similar, but the mechanical arrangement wasn't as I thought. Once I got in there I could see that I could have loosened the set screw on each driven gear, but they were not easy to get at and I figured loosening the belt would be easier. Ultimately loosening the belt wasn't loose enough so I had to remove it. So loosening the set screws at the driven pullies may in fact be easier. YMMV
To clarify, in the first video I did right before this one, I thought I was loosening a coupler at the bottom, but turned out to be not a coupler, but simply a shaft collar I inferred to lock the height of the lead screw on top of the bearing, but I left it out of that video because it didn't show anything helpful other than a failed method.
SORRY TO SAY but this was a complete waste of time the best way to do this is , manual bed leveling, get 4 orange ender screws, 4 m4x70x50 machine bolts and 4 wing nuts. use these items to create 4 handles below the bed, the height of the screws in congunction with the spring will lift the bed, allow for the expansion of th ebed when hot. to calibrate, go into fluidd and run screws tilt macro, left front is your base get this as close to 00.00, raise and lower with the wing nuts front right,rear right,rear left till within 00.04 variance of the base. its possible, ive done it, you can go all the way to 00.00 variance on all corners if you have the time, mine is within 00.01 variance on all corners and has stayed that way for months with the above solution. you need 7 dollars and to go to your local hardware store thats it
Thank you for your opinion that my video is a complete waste of time LOL please forgive me.