Ivan is the one guy who is smart enough to both perform the technical diagnostics with all the good equipment and then repair the car for little to no money. It's hard to believe he's only now surpassing 100k subscribers. A hidden gem! Thanks Ivan!
As of now, 1 year later, he's at 146k subscribers but should be double that. I know there are a lot of others that do this but I struggle to watch their videos over Ivan's.
Ivan is so good that even when he gets close to the problem, the cars start to fix themselves out of fear! Hahahaha. Another fantastic lesson on diagnosis by elimination within the circuit. Man I love learning from you.
That black box either made in Mexico or Taiwan. Gonna leave someone stuck somewhere sooner or later. Nothing better than Ford electronics made in Mexico
I've seen a few of these where the linkage from the ignition cylinder to the switch wears out and causes and intermittent no crank, sometimes turning the key hard will pick up the slack and cause it to start. Its possible that when you put your test light in that contact it pushed the switch a certain way so it started every time for you. But this was a good video showing and explaining how to elminate parts of the circuit to trace the problem to the source vs just start checking fuses, unplugging things, throwing parts at it, ect.
U know Sir Ivan, After all this time watching your skills with DIAGS. " IT STILL BLOWS ME AWAY ". I FREAKIN HATE WIRING PROBLEMS & I'M AN IDIOT AT TRYING TO FIND THE PROBLEM. But you make it look, " SO FREAKIN EASY ", DAMN. I guess I don't dedicate myself enough to learn or have enough problems as a DIY to lear, OR JUST LAZY, YA LAZY I WOULD SAY. GREAET DIAG. AS ALWAYS SIR IVAN, HOW'S THE FAMILY DOIN IN THESE KRAZY TIMES, SIR ? Henry, from N.E. PA.
@@randallgoldapp9510 that's called job security... The ones I find the most are those who jerry rig stuff in such a convoluted manner, no one else dares to touch those crippled machines.. Finally the owner gets fed up and calls me to put it back to original and regain full operability and repeatability. Many a times I have to advise the operator to change workflow to take advantage of the reacquired functions !!
@@jgoncalodm I have found over 40 years of doing this is that half assing it only makes things harder. We do work under limitations because our equipment is so old and spare parts are not always available. I find fix it right the first time is the easiest path. The people I work with are for the most part honest but clearly some are better than others, just like all other walks of life.
Amazing how you track this stuff down. The wire never got loose but ends up somehow, making poor contact. It also would be a lot easier not working in super tight areas. Thanks for the video again.
Thank you Ivan! I had also the same problem in a light truck some days ago, I wiggled the fuse and then cranked so good! I hate that because I was trying to reproduce the problem! I am not an english native speaker but I understand you perfectly and I learn a lot from you. Greetings from Cuenca, Ecuador!
Another great video Ivan. I think the only thing I wouldve done as well is pull the fuse so the car doesnt start, put the test light on the green wire at the switch, turn key to crank, watch test light and wiggle the wire and see if the light goes out.
I just love your videos. You take so much time diagnosing everything as i do, not many mechanic shops Nor dealer do it anymore, just replace parts until it fixes the issue. Well in South Africa that is the case
May I suggest next time - remove the start relay, connect the test light to the input wire at the smart box, turn the key and wiggle everything to see if the light goes off. Still impressed with your skills.
I hate when that happens , Leaves you wondering if it will act back up later on . Anyway great demonstration of what me go though sometimes on diagnosing a problem .
Nice diag. I hate problems that disappear. To further test that system, I would have put a test light at the smart terminal starter fuse, turned the key to start, and wiggled everything to see if it would blink off and on.
This one is easy . No diagrams needed you were looking rite at the alarm bypass button . The 2 twisted thin brown wires go to a momentary button . Turn key on and press button . Boom 💥 it will start 💯 . . I get these in factory installed ford aftermarket alarms in my shop monthly . They are actually a code alarm product (aftermarket) Installed by the dealer And are controlled by the factory keyless remote . . I’m thinking it was on valet and was turned off . The battery went dead and was re active again . . I always bypass the starter kill on these , or just remove it all together .
It WORKED !!!! You are a GOD !!! All cause that stupid green wire . I been chasing that demon for months ! You are the man thank you keep up the great work.
Another NPR fix. It’s frustrating sometimes when it’s an internal contact. If it was mine I’d install a new switch. But it certainly be fine for a long time
my sister had a ford focus that did this, tap lightly with a heavy object, on the key in the switch, and it started. ignition switch problem. i will take a car from the 60's any day over these heaps of junk. manual windows, steering, brakes and a stick.
I hate when that happens. I know you're not supposed to touch stuff, but sometimes ya gotta touch stuff! I wonder, doesn't the GEM have a PID for factory immobilizer on/off on the scanner?
2005 Freestyle, no crank a couple times a month. Will usually start after a few hours. Starts right up by jumping relay in on position. Installed new starter switch, just happened again today. Once it's jumped starts as usual. Any help would be appreciated.
Try the green wire to the ignition . As in the video . My wife's car had the exact same problem , always at the worst time . Watched this video after changing everything. That little green wire was just not in the connector all the way just like this video .even replaced the ignition that the wire plugs into . Was a nightmare until now .
Great Video Ivan!! You and Eric make some great content, your title though should have said " No Knuckles were skinned making this video" !!!!!!!!! 😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
There's a BIG difference between cranking it over and actually starting it. In this case, the key was in the ignition and in the 'run' position, so all Ivan had to do was to 'emulate' turning the key one step further to the 'start' position. If the correct key was NOT in the ignition, the vehicle anti-theft system _should_ have inhibitted it from actually starting. Intriguingly though, the OEM Ford 'remote start' receiver can obviously control ALL aspects (including satisfying any 'anti-theft' conditions), so all the pertinent signal wires MUST be on the loom from this box.
what would be a way to see online ALL fuses and relay information what each one operates to see what I don't need to drive car thank you God bless BSAFE
The freestyle gives you free style especially when the transmission dies and you’re pushing it in your Ford shoes, ours went thru 7 of them under 100k miles... it was time to yeet it
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics yes!! It had the infamous CVT!! I will NEVER buy a newer car with a CVT, I didn’t even believe it was 7 but when I found the paperwork in the traverse for the trade in slip it had the vin of the freestyle!!! Was at the dealership numerous times and only had 100k on it when it last sold! I don’t even remember what miles got rid of it at.
That was a good video but it didn't work,there is two big relays under dash number 1&2 that click when i turn key to start position what does that mean?
Hi, Ivan, I have a 2005 Ford Freestar, and I hope you can help with the diagnostic part. I know the video was for the Freestyle, but the names are so similar, UA-cam and Google are having trouble finding me the correct video :( At the same time, many things seem quite similar to the video, so maybe I can bounce some things off of you. Turn the key to the start position result in a single weak click, nothing more. The deal with the 'under the hood' fuse box, where you 'jumper' (old PC lingo) two of the pins under the started relay with a wire, that caused the engine to turn over, but not to spark or have ignition. Running the positive line to the correct fuse in the 'pedals' area did nothing. I know the positive line was live because it sparked whenever I touched metal. I didn't have the test light like you have, I just attached some uninsulated baling wire to a jumper cable. The OBD fails every time. It just runs through all the possible protocols, then flashes the "link error" really quick, and starts over. Given all this, what is the most likely cause of my problem? Or what should I try next?
BTDT and I hate when that happens! You know it's gonna happen as soon as you leave! I've found it's better to replace the switch and the connector. Those pins and receptacles are tiny, not large current carriers, plus after several years and startups they will cause problems.
One thought is to remove the starter relay so you can hold the ignition in the start position without starting the car, then monitor the test light while fondling all the wires to get a flashing test light. I don't like the idea of any box that is called "Smart", it will fail in a pain in the arse way lol :-D. Just my old git opinion ha ha :-D
A FORD that doesn't start....wow, it was shocking. Being the former owner of a FORD...something was always wrong. FORD a d quality cannot be used in the same sentence.
My parents have owned 2 Fords in the past 17 years. Never had much of any problems with them. Driven a 94 Ranger 260k miles before it was a total loss. And the 2001 Sport Trac currently has 219k miles, it has not seen a mechanics shop in over 2 years. The truck gets abused and tows a lawn trailer daily. Also my 2003 Focus seems to start up every time, I've owned the car for almost 2 years.
Don't you just love those jobs touch something then all,works . Still a nice fault trace out .. I bet That dinger drives you nuts when trying to fix problems 😯😯
I'm actually surprised you didn't use the scan tool to confirm the ignition switch is reporting to be in start position when you turn the key. Unless, of course, you were doing this long diagnostic for the sake of the video which is appreciated.
To the guy who makes these videos I'm not sure what your name is how do I contact you? You did a video a while back about doing piston rings on a Geo Prizm, I'm curious on where you order the parts from in California the prices are outrageous so if you could let me know I would appreciate it.
Probably the green wire's connector not seated looking at those two askew fuses. Probably owner caused if not ignition switch. Kind of flaky factory install of the added module. I have put in remote start and it wants you to remove insulation for an inch poke your wire through and wrap it around then electrical tape a cover. What would work much better is to solder it then shrink tube it.
Great video and content as always!! Your a true diagnostic monster! I wanted to share a channel with you, you may already have on your radar it’s called automotive test solutions I believe his name is Bernie Thompson. He’s another diagnostic monster like yourself (I mean that in the best way). Just wanted to share that with you, I know you will appreciate his work as I do yours. I Can’t wait till the EV’s roll in. Lol. Nice 750 by the way too!
Why not do a voltage drop across the ignition switch anywhere close to 300mv across the switch contacts bad switch campare the voltage drop to a new switch whe the contacts heat up voltage drop will increase to the point of failure
U probably missed the crappy butt connection under that tape. Seriously that's how those were installed. U cut the starter wire so the internal relay could break the starter wire so the owner couldn't grind the starter when doing key take over. Or the relay inside the module went bad. That's a Code Alarm unit with a Ford logo on it.
Thats a dealer installed remote start. The internal starter kill relay goes bad all.the time. Or a shitty connection. I knew this as soon as i saw the blinking led
Please do not buy any Ford Freestyle crossover, especially this 2006 model with the 3 L V6 engine, the CVT transmission and with AWD. These vehicles are the worst ever in reliability and the electronics always fail on these vehicles. Run away, as quick as you can away from them. You can plan to buy a 2019 Mazda CX-9 AWD crossover with the 2.5 L Skyactiv four-cylinder turbocharged engine and the six-speed automatic transmission with manual-shift capability. They are extremely reliable and they are much larger and a lot safer.
Ivan is the one guy who is smart enough to both perform the technical diagnostics with all the good equipment and then repair the car for little to no money. It's hard to believe he's only now surpassing 100k subscribers. A hidden gem! Thanks Ivan!
Ivan is one of the best around. Need more techs like him! He is worth every penny he charges!
As of now, 1 year later, he's at 146k subscribers but should be double that. I know there are a lot of others that do this but I struggle to watch their videos over Ivan's.
Saturday morning coffee and a PHD video. I love watching a logical mind work.
I love watching you solve problems like this. You've made me a much better shade tree mechanic, Thanks, Ray
Ivan is so good that even when he gets close to the problem, the cars start to fix themselves out of fear! Hahahaha. Another fantastic lesson on diagnosis by elimination within the circuit. Man I love learning from you.
That black box either made in Mexico or Taiwan. Gonna leave someone stuck somewhere sooner or later. Nothing better than Ford electronics made in Mexico
I've seen a few of these where the linkage from the ignition cylinder to the switch wears out and causes and intermittent no crank, sometimes turning the key hard will pick up the slack and cause it to start. Its possible that when you put your test light in that contact it pushed the switch a certain way so it started every time for you. But this was a good video showing and explaining how to elminate parts of the circuit to trace the problem to the source vs just start checking fuses, unplugging things, throwing parts at it, ect.
I had a fFocus with the linkage problem. The switch was fine. There is a kit for it. Guess who makes it. But it fixed the car
U know Sir Ivan, After all this time watching your skills with DIAGS. " IT STILL BLOWS ME AWAY ". I FREAKIN HATE WIRING PROBLEMS & I'M AN IDIOT AT TRYING TO FIND THE PROBLEM. But you make it look, " SO FREAKIN EASY ", DAMN. I guess I don't dedicate myself enough to learn or have enough problems as a DIY to lear, OR JUST LAZY, YA LAZY I WOULD SAY. GREAET DIAG. AS ALWAYS SIR IVAN, HOW'S THE FAMILY DOIN IN THESE KRAZY TIMES, SIR ? Henry, from N.E. PA.
Divide and conquer!!! Great work Ivan
Nothing better to Start your Saturday than A PHad no crank diag.
Happy Saturday!
I wish the maintenance techs at the plant I work at would watch these.
Probably too busy playing video games or watching TicTok videos like the maintenence kids I work with 🙄
@@Raylude5 you know, the older guys are doing it too, where I work. They could be studying on their down time and expanding their skills.
@@randallgoldapp9510 that's called job security... The ones I find the most are those who jerry rig stuff in such a convoluted manner, no one else dares to touch those crippled machines.. Finally the owner gets fed up and calls me to put it back to original and regain full operability and repeatability. Many a times I have to advise the operator to change workflow to take advantage of the reacquired functions !!
@@jgoncalodm I have found over 40 years of doing this is that half assing it only makes things harder. We do work under limitations because our equipment is so old and spare parts are not always available. I find fix it right the first time is the easiest path. The people I work with are for the most part honest but clearly some are better than others, just like all other walks of life.
Amazing how you track this stuff down. The wire never got loose but ends up somehow, making poor contact. It also would be a lot easier not working in super tight areas. Thanks for the video again.
This video was great, Ivan! A very clear diagnostic path that was easy for us to follow. Have a great Saturday!
Thank you Ivan! I had also the same problem in a light truck some days ago, I wiggled the fuse and then cranked so good! I hate that because I was trying to reproduce the problem! I am not an english native speaker but I understand you perfectly and I learn a lot from you. Greetings from Cuenca, Ecuador!
im having this exact same problem right now i hope what you have shown me works
Gotta admire your patience, Ivan.
Another great video Ivan. I think the only thing I wouldve done as well is pull the fuse so the car doesnt start, put the test light on the green wire at the switch, turn key to crank, watch test light and wiggle the wire and see if the light goes out.
I just love your videos. You take so much time diagnosing everything as i do, not many mechanic shops Nor dealer do it anymore, just replace parts until it fixes the issue. Well in South Africa that is the case
That was a cool fix! I would have thought at first the alarm system was going to be the cause. Turns out you were right diagnosing the way you did.
Another 1000 subs just like that! You deserve every one of them!
Great Job Ivan!
Another great troubleshooting video by Ivan.
nice work. reminds me that i need to diag a intermittent no crank on my moms HHR
Master skills troubleshooting.
Great “if then or else” logic.
May I suggest next time - remove the start relay, connect the test light to the input wire at the smart box, turn the key and wiggle everything to see if the light goes off. Still impressed with your skills.
I hate when that happens , Leaves you wondering if it will act back up later on . Anyway great demonstration of what me go though sometimes on diagnosing a problem .
Nice diag. I hate problems that disappear. To further test that system, I would have put a test light at the smart terminal starter fuse, turned the key to start, and wiggled everything to see if it would blink off and on.
This one is easy . No diagrams needed you were looking rite at the alarm bypass button . The 2 twisted thin brown wires go to a momentary button . Turn key on and press button . Boom 💥 it will start 💯 . . I get these in factory installed ford aftermarket alarms in my shop monthly . They are actually a code alarm product (aftermarket) Installed by the dealer And are controlled by the factory keyless remote . . I’m thinking it was on valet and was turned off . The battery went dead and was re active again . . I always bypass the starter kill on these , or just remove it all together .
Before video was over I said typical Ford ignition switch. At least this one wasn't on fire.
It WORKED !!!! You are a GOD !!! All cause that stupid green wire . I been chasing that demon for months ! You are the man thank you keep up the great work.
Awesome! Glad to help 👍
I had a dream, all mechanics could fix cars like Ivan and gas sold for a buck a gallon.
Don't we all wish....on the gas 😀😀😀😀
How do you keep track of where you pierced the wires?
After doing a long diag it's hard to find the holes to put some liquid electrical tape on them
That's a real head scratch-er.
Could this stop a car while running or would that be something different?
Hi Ivan,what sw is for wiring diagram ? Has also European fords?
Tnx
Another NPR fix. It’s frustrating sometimes when it’s an internal contact. If it was mine I’d install a new switch. But it certainly be fine for a long time
Great watching you figure this out!
my sister had a ford focus that did this, tap lightly with a heavy object, on the key in the switch, and it started. ignition switch problem. i will take a car from the 60's any day over these heaps of junk. manual windows, steering, brakes and a stick.
Wow. That's "factory installed", that module being allowed to flop around like that? That is so sloppy. Good work, Ivan.
I'd love to take some time off work and come shadow you. That would be freaking awesome!
Ivan you are the man. Thanks for sharing stay safe and well Artie 😊
I hate when that happens. I know you're not supposed to touch stuff, but sometimes ya gotta touch stuff! I wonder, doesn't the GEM have a PID for factory immobilizer on/off on the scanner?
Good job
You are Awesome at troubleshooting. A + Two Thumbs Up
Hell yeah. Sweet diag Ivan. Thanks!
2005 Freestyle, no crank a couple times a month. Will usually start after a few hours. Starts right up by jumping relay in on position. Installed new starter switch, just happened again today. Once it's jumped starts as usual. Any help would be appreciated.
Try the green wire to the ignition . As in the video . My wife's car had the exact same problem , always at the worst time . Watched this video after changing everything. That little green wire was just not in the connector all the way just like this video .even replaced the ignition that the wire plugs into . Was a nightmare until now .
Is that the same for a 2004 Ford freestar mine starts warms up shut it off and then it will not start again
Great Video Ivan!! You and Eric make
some great content, your title though
should have said " No Knuckles were
skinned making this video" !!!!!!!!!
😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
Great video brother 💪 Very informative
Ivan just showed us how to start a 2006 Ford Freestyle without a key!
Is there no transponder in the ignition key?
@@engeneer_ru5827 Guess not! One screw driver is all you need. So simple, if you know where.
There's a BIG difference between cranking it over and actually starting it.
In this case, the key was in the ignition and in the 'run' position, so all Ivan had to do was to 'emulate' turning the key one step further to the 'start' position.
If the correct key was NOT in the ignition, the vehicle anti-theft system _should_ have inhibitted it from actually starting.
Intriguingly though, the OEM Ford 'remote start' receiver can obviously control ALL aspects (including satisfying any 'anti-theft' conditions), so all the pertinent signal wires MUST be on the loom from this box.
what would be a way to see online ALL fuses and relay information what each one operates to see what I don't need to drive car thank you God bless BSAFE
Thanks for all your videos never miss one Bill N LINY
The freestyle gives you free style especially when the transmission dies and you’re pushing it in your Ford shoes, ours went thru 7 of them under 100k miles... it was time to yeet it
That's probably why they gave it that name
7 transmission in 100k miles?!? That's insane!!
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics yes!! It had the infamous CVT!! I will NEVER buy a newer car with a CVT, I didn’t even believe it was 7 but when I found the paperwork in the traverse for the trade in slip it had the vin of the freestyle!!! Was at the dealership numerous times and only had 100k on it when it last sold! I don’t even remember what miles got rid of it at.
If possible, $ wise, I'd of gotten rid of it after it went through the first couple trans in THAT low mileage...I wouldn't have waited for seven!
@@brianmason8400 Me to no point wasting money on it unless Ford covered it under warranty.
That was a good video but it didn't work,there is two big relays under dash number 1&2 that click when i turn key to start position what does that mean?
Hi, Ivan, I have a 2005 Ford Freestar, and I hope you can help with the diagnostic part. I know the video was for the Freestyle, but the names are so similar, UA-cam and Google are having trouble finding me the correct video :(
At the same time, many things seem quite similar to the video, so maybe I can bounce some things off of you.
Turn the key to the start position result in a single weak click, nothing more.
The deal with the 'under the hood' fuse box, where you 'jumper' (old PC lingo) two of the pins under the started relay with a wire, that caused the engine to turn over, but not to spark or have ignition.
Running the positive line to the correct fuse in the 'pedals' area did nothing. I know the positive line was live because it sparked whenever I touched metal. I didn't have the test light like you have, I just attached some uninsulated baling wire to a jumper cable.
The OBD fails every time. It just runs through all the possible protocols, then flashes the "link error" really quick, and starts over.
Given all this, what is the most likely cause of my problem? Or what should I try next?
@@adriancombe fill out the appointment form on my website www.pinehollowdiagnostics.com 👍
BTDT and I hate when that happens!
You know it's gonna happen as soon as you leave!
I've found it's better to replace the switch and the connector. Those pins and receptacles are tiny, not large current carriers, plus after several years and startups they will cause problems.
One thought is to remove the starter relay so you can hold the ignition in the start position without starting the car, then monitor the test light while fondling all the wires to get a flashing test light.
I don't like the idea of any box that is called "Smart", it will fail in a pain in the arse way lol :-D.
Just my old git opinion ha ha :-D
Yogi Berra said, “ When you come to a fork in the road..take it”
Another NPR success! Rather than diagnose at end of the trail would it not be more efficient to start at the top of the tree? ϟ
What about on a 2007 freestyle?
A FORD that doesn't start....wow, it was shocking. Being the former owner of a FORD...something was always wrong. FORD a d quality cannot be used in the same sentence.
Failure
Of
Research &
Development
Show me a manufacturer that has zero problems, you won't find any. Speaking from experience in the auto repair business of over 12 years.
My parents have owned 2 Fords in the past 17 years. Never had much of any problems with them. Driven a 94 Ranger 260k miles before it was a total loss. And the 2001 Sport Trac currently has 219k miles, it has not seen a mechanics shop in over 2 years. The truck gets abused and tows a lawn trailer daily. Also my 2003 Focus seems to start up every time, I've owned the car for almost 2 years.
Don't you just love those jobs touch something then all,works . Still a nice fault trace out .. I bet That dinger drives you nuts when trying to fix problems 😯😯
I'm actually surprised you didn't use the scan tool to confirm the ignition switch is reporting to be in start position when you turn the key. Unless, of course, you were doing this long diagnostic for the sake of the video which is appreciated.
Like #525
Thanks for the video!
Cool 🤩 video
To the guy who makes these videos I'm not sure what your name is how do I contact you? You did a video a while back about doing piston rings on a Geo Prizm, I'm curious on where you order the parts from in California the prices are outrageous so if you could let me know I would appreciate it.
Online... Ask Google 👍
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics oh wow thanks for all the info now I can sleep better at night.
Awesome
Probably the green wire's connector not seated looking at those two askew fuses. Probably owner caused if not ignition switch. Kind of flaky factory install of the added module. I have put in remote start and it wants you to remove insulation for an inch poke your wire through and wrap it around then electrical tape a cover. What would work much better is to solder it then shrink tube it.
Good job on putting a test light in the relay terminal!!!!!!!!!!!!☹️☹️☹️☹️☹️
No worries, I'm a professional ;)
I road in a Ford freestyle but it was fwd
The car was in an accident? Possible that the connection was loose and lost contact.
Great video and content as always!! Your a true diagnostic monster! I wanted to share a channel with you, you may already have on your radar it’s called automotive test solutions I believe his name is Bernie Thompson. He’s another diagnostic monster like yourself (I mean that in the best way). Just wanted to share that with you, I know you will appreciate his work as I do yours. I Can’t wait till the EV’s roll in. Lol. Nice 750 by the way too!
Love Bernie at ATS!!
1080p please
👍❤️
Why not do a voltage drop across the ignition switch anywhere close to 300mv across the switch contacts bad switch campare the voltage drop to a new switch whe the contacts heat up voltage drop will increase to the point of failure
The remote start system is NOT factory installed, it’s a dealership installed add on
👍👍👍👍
i have the same car all you have to do is lock & unlock doors on keyfob and car will start some times it does that.
U probably missed the crappy butt connection under that tape. Seriously that's how those were installed. U cut the starter wire so the internal relay could break the starter wire so the owner couldn't grind the starter when doing key take over. Or the relay inside the module went bad. That's a Code Alarm unit with a Ford logo on it.
Thats a dealer installed remote start. The internal starter kill relay goes bad all.the time. Or a shitty connection. I knew this as soon as i saw the blinking led
thats why its better to start from a point A then move up until you find the problem, guessing is shitty.
Great bird dogging.
11:57 Don't ya just hate that!
Please do not buy any Ford Freestyle crossover, especially this 2006 model with the 3 L V6 engine, the CVT transmission and with AWD. These vehicles are the worst ever in reliability and the electronics always fail on these vehicles. Run away, as quick as you can away from them. You can plan to buy a 2019 Mazda CX-9 AWD crossover with the 2.5 L Skyactiv four-cylinder turbocharged engine and the six-speed automatic transmission with manual-shift capability. They are extremely reliable and they are much larger and a lot safer.
Ivan you accidentally fixed it 😂
You continue to force me to mute the video and use the closed caption because of the continuous door chime, which is very annoying.
😁
I hate when it fixes itself.
I smell arftermarket wiring hack
Glad it wasn't a seized alternator, like one I did last summer. That alternator is tricky, in a driveway.
Where did you source the diagrams?