So glad to see this. You are one of the most professional experienced boat techs and still stuff goes wrong that you have to overcome. It’s about figuring out what you need to do to make it work and you have a great demeanor that is REAL
Two part flotation foam has a very short shelf life. Something like 6-8 months. Double check what you’re receiving isn’t already expired or about to expire. I had so many issues with my 2 part foam and turned out it was expired.
Just like the foam in the cup. It formed a crust on top then expanded more pushing the top up. In the boat it does the same thing but grabs/ forms the desk and rises in the middle. Pour while tilting the boat allowing the foam to run expanding into thin layers.
WELL U R ONE OF US. I DID LEARN FROM YOUR FANS "TILT THE BOAT" GOOD INFO. NOW WHAT I DID IS DRILL ALOT OF HOLES FOOT APART EACH WAY. NOW WE ARE REPAIRING BOTTOM ( LONG STORING) WE WERE HAPPY, THIS EXPOSED FOAM OF TEN YEARS AGO FILLED CAVITIES TIGHT,ONLY TEN YRS TO FIND THAT WE DID GOOD JOB. OUR HOLES WERE 1" LOTS OF THEM. WE ARE NEW TO YOUR YOUR UA-cam,VERY GOOD,WE LIKE YOUR HEIPER.
A few things. Mix it with a drill and pour it immediately. If the foam is not 75f plus you can warm the jugs in warm water. Larger pour holes too, so you can see. It is a pain for sure, even when everything is right. I used US composite 2lb foam and it worked well and did not leave voids.
Hey your learning like us all. I really enjoy this videos. It actually makes me feel much better about myself when I screw something up and then watch a pro say hey I’ve messed up too and let me tell ya I’ve messed some things up 😂😂😂😂
I would think you need to mix much larger batches of foam so it fills better in one go. If you tilted the boat bow or stern high as close to vertical to fill the below deck so it covers the entire void bottom surface. Think of filling a 8 foot long 8 inch plastic pipe. It would get better coverage by filling it from one end sitting vertical as opposed to filling thru several holes as it laid horizontal.
I would say that the physics at play working with such time sensitive materials...the faster you go the faster you could ruin whole time consuming project that to my surprise is going a million times better then I would of initially of thought so at the start ✌out.
You have to do this in small mixed batches 2qts each mixture and work it in slowly (unless you have the $30k dispensing machine). As it pours, the foam is kicking faster and faster the more air gets to it so it is difficult to get it into all of the deep nooks and crannys without blocking off your pourhole prematurely and creating air voids.
I pour mine with boat on incline, with a bigger pour hole. I also mix with a drill and pour larger batches quicker and i also have a small hole for compressed air. It helps with moving the material around finding voids. I do carolina skiff quite regularly and after trial and error I find that on incline helps work from bottom to top. Not a heavy incline but substantial enough to flow.
Friend you need to lean the boat back a little so the foam runs back and it expands from the back forward covering the whole decking evenly and it has the holes for the foam to go out evenly..thanks for the video we all learn from your errors thanks friend.😊
As @burtcmcalpine said temp is very important with 2 part foam. ive done sevral projects with various brands of it and found that anything under 75ish is a no go. warm up your jugs and work in the sun if you can. MIX FAST AND WELL. also it doesnt stay viscous long so spread is hard to acheive without doing larger pours, a lil here a lil there doesnt cut it. Also try larger holes and stick around for a minute to watch, try and catch the foam coming out of the hole and place somthing heavy on it so the expanding foam is forced back into the void and further up stream, assuming you tilted the project. Shelve life is also a big concern. alternatativly you could have laid a string across before you reattached the deck and pored first. shaved away any unwanted humps, replaced the deck and then poured again , then only having a thin void across the whole area to fill.
recommendations: 1) calculate the volume of liquid needed for the entire void based on the expansion of the foam - have all materials ready before starting. 2) place concrete blocks or other heavy weights on the deck in order to prevent uplift. 3) mask the areas around the holes in order to prevent the foam from sticking to the deck. 4) pour as fast as possible in all holes - based on estimated volume below - so that the foam fills fills the void evenly. 5) do not press on the deck as the foam hardens for the same reason that you shouldn't disturb glue as it hardens - you'll weaken it - pile on more weights if the deck heaves. 6) remove the outflow from the masked areas around the holes. 7) let everything harden before checking to see if you have voids.
I attempted to put foam in a confined space. it began to rise but then stopped, hours later it then completely liquified and never set. I believe my issue was not enough reaction with air. I believe my issue was once it skinned over there was not enough exposure to air in the confined space to activate the rest.
Mix that with an old paddle bit or something like that with a drill. It gets it mixed up quickly and you can pour in sooner so it flows like you think it would. Once that stuff kicks, it stops flowing and starts rising!
Have a couple dozen cinder blocks available and some 8-inch by 8-inch squares of plywood. Start at the low side of the boat, pour in a shitload put the plywood over the hole and a cinder block and some cinder block strategically so the deck doesn't pull up. That will force it to creep towards the front of the boat and pop up in some of the open holes that'll let you know how far it's gone and keep going to the get to the very front/high side
what you should have done was to cut the floor out first pore the foam all over the bottom of the boat wait for it to dry, and cut off what you don't need then fiberglass the floor back in then you didn't need to drill the holes in the floor thx jason from England UK
Poly is tough to work with. It has a cream time from 3 seconds to 120. When you apply you need a steady feed rather than quick. Steady causes it to take longer to skin. It’s also temp reactive. I own a poly company.
A bit late now but could you not have laid down foam bricks before replacing the deck and then just used the liquid expanding foam to fill in the gaps? Thanks for the great videos.
This Whaler is not built with stringers running fire/aft. The deck is very thin, so the foam is structural in that it gives the thin deck rigidity from flexing. Foam can be use to fill voids for strength such as this example.
Well brother welcome to foam pouring. And I don't have the answer. I am restoring a 19' 1969 Mako. It's a 2-3 year project that's probably will outlive me, and that's 2 deffinitions,. I either won't live long enough to finish it or it will last 150 years if a storm or hurricane doesn't destroy it.. you gotta laugh and call a spade a spade. I have poured test batches and pondered how I'm going to get the boat poured solid in essence 1 piece as it adds strength to the hull without seams and voids in the foam.(that seems to be impossible) I have pondered standing boat on its nose and pouring 7-10 gallons at once in close succession as it's still rising from the transom hatch. But I also want the gunnels solid too. I removed the cap and all water logged foam, Somebody told me I was a special kind of crazy,. and I am thinking they were right. The 8# is best for flooring But my flooring the way I build doesn't need support. BUT anyway as you now know 8# is like bread dough that doesn't rise. Tempture and humidity play in all this too. Hotter is not always best, but cooler is always worse. I have not been able to charm the perfect plan with foam,. but it's on the horizon some YEAR (i hope) Can't wait to see yours done, and best to you. Cheers.
I think you should name this boat Nightmare...or maybe Disaster. Ambient temperature and temperature difference where the sun shone on the deck might have complicated your pour.
your holes are to small. WHen your goal is to file a large void, you need to bore a larger hole so you can see what is happening. 2-inch hole will help see what is going on.
I knew this would be a total sh- show when you decided to re build a whaler. 😂they are compression molded in special molds so they don’t puff up. It’s thousands of pounds of pressure of that PU foam. It was a closely guarded secret of how they did it till the 😂 edge water boat company started.
You are smart! And humble to show us your mistakes so we learn from them!
He’s so impatient and a goofy stooge
For real love this guys attitude 💯
So glad to see this. You are one of the most professional experienced boat techs and still stuff goes wrong that you have to overcome. It’s about figuring out what you need to do to make it work and you have a great demeanor that is REAL
Thank you!
Two part flotation foam has a very short shelf life. Something like 6-8 months. Double check what you’re receiving isn’t already expired or about to expire. I had so many issues with my 2 part foam and turned out it was expired.
Just like the foam in the cup. It formed a crust on top then expanded more pushing the top up. In the boat it does the same thing but grabs/ forms the desk and rises in the middle. Pour while tilting the boat allowing the foam to run expanding into thin layers.
WELL U R ONE OF US. I DID LEARN FROM YOUR FANS "TILT THE BOAT" GOOD INFO. NOW WHAT I DID IS DRILL ALOT OF HOLES FOOT APART EACH WAY. NOW WE ARE REPAIRING BOTTOM ( LONG STORING) WE WERE HAPPY, THIS EXPOSED FOAM OF TEN YEARS AGO FILLED CAVITIES TIGHT,ONLY TEN YRS TO FIND THAT WE DID GOOD JOB. OUR HOLES WERE 1" LOTS OF THEM. WE ARE NEW TO YOUR YOUR UA-cam,VERY GOOD,WE LIKE YOUR HEIPER.
A few things. Mix it with a drill and pour it immediately. If the foam is not 75f plus you can warm the jugs in warm water. Larger pour holes too, so you can see. It is a pain for sure, even when everything is right. I used US composite 2lb foam and it worked well and did not leave voids.
Hey your learning like us all. I really enjoy this videos. It actually makes me feel much better about myself when I screw something up and then watch a pro say hey I’ve messed up too and let me tell ya I’ve messed some things up 😂😂😂😂
I would think you need to mix much larger batches of foam so it fills better in one go. If you tilted the boat bow or stern high as close to vertical to fill the below deck so it covers the entire void bottom surface. Think of filling a 8 foot long 8 inch plastic pipe. It would get better coverage by filling it from one end sitting vertical as opposed to filling thru several holes as it laid horizontal.
I would say that the physics at play working with such time sensitive materials...the faster you go the faster you could ruin whole time consuming project that to my surprise is going a million times better then I would of initially of thought so at the start ✌out.
You have to do this in small mixed batches 2qts each mixture and work it in slowly (unless you have the $30k dispensing machine). As it pours, the foam is kicking faster and faster the more air gets to it so it is difficult to get it into all of the deep nooks and crannys without blocking off your pourhole prematurely and creating air voids.
I pour mine with boat on incline, with a bigger pour hole. I also mix with a drill and pour larger batches quicker and i also have a small hole for compressed air. It helps with moving the material around finding voids. I do carolina skiff quite regularly and after trial and error I find that on incline helps work from bottom to top. Not a heavy incline but substantial enough to flow.
How much would a boat repair shop charge for a water logged boat?
Friend you need to lean the boat back a little so the foam runs back and it expands from the back forward covering the whole decking evenly and it has the holes for the foam to go out evenly..thanks for the video we all learn from your errors thanks friend.😊
As @burtcmcalpine said temp is very important with 2 part foam. ive done sevral projects with various brands of it and found that anything under 75ish is a no go. warm up your jugs and work in the sun if you can. MIX FAST AND WELL. also it doesnt stay viscous long so spread is hard to acheive without doing larger pours, a lil here a lil there doesnt cut it. Also try larger holes and stick around for a minute to watch, try and catch the foam coming out of the hole and place somthing heavy on it so the expanding foam is forced back into the void and further up stream, assuming you tilted the project. Shelve life is also a big concern. alternatativly you could have laid a string across before you reattached the deck and pored first. shaved away any unwanted humps, replaced the deck and then poured again , then only having a thin void across the whole area to fill.
recommendations:
1) calculate the volume of liquid needed for the entire void based on the expansion of the foam - have all materials ready before starting.
2) place concrete blocks or other heavy weights on the deck in order to prevent uplift.
3) mask the areas around the holes in order to prevent the foam from sticking to the deck.
4) pour as fast as possible in all holes - based on estimated volume below - so that the foam fills fills the void evenly.
5) do not press on the deck as the foam hardens for the same reason that you shouldn't disturb glue as it hardens - you'll weaken it - pile on more weights if the deck heaves.
6) remove the outflow from the masked areas around the holes.
7) let everything harden before checking to see if you have voids.
I attempted to put foam in a confined space. it began to rise but then stopped, hours later it then completely liquified and never set. I believe my issue was not enough reaction with air. I believe my issue was once it skinned over there was not enough exposure to air in the confined space to activate the rest.
Mix that with an old paddle bit or something like that with a drill. It gets it mixed up quickly and you can pour in sooner so it flows like you think it would. Once that stuff kicks, it stops flowing and starts rising!
If you were to do this again, would you have put sand bags across the deck to counter the foam pushing up? Or would that make the deck sag too much?
NM… I see you brought out the bricks later
I need to stop workin as an aircraft structural tech in a hangar in Canada and be a boat refinisher in Florida!
Have a couple dozen cinder blocks available and some 8-inch by 8-inch squares of plywood. Start at the low side of the boat, pour in a shitload put the plywood over the hole and a cinder block and some cinder block strategically so the deck doesn't pull up. That will force it to creep towards the front of the boat and pop up in some of the open holes that'll let you know how far it's gone and keep going to the get to the very front/high side
what you should have done was to cut the floor out first pore the foam all over the bottom of the boat wait for it to dry, and cut off what you don't need then fiberglass the floor back in then you didn't need to drill the holes in the floor thx jason from England UK
That’s how you end up with un even floors
I've worked with pour foam a bunch...I absolutely hate it.
Poly is tough to work with. It has a cream time from 3 seconds to 120. When you apply you need a steady feed rather than quick. Steady causes it to take longer to skin. It’s also temp reactive. I own a poly company.
Jumbo Foam Injection Syringes really work great for this type of job. Just a thought 🤙🏻
Also covering the hole with duck tape helps the foam fill in empty spaces until it's full then it will pop the tape off
A bit late now but could you not have laid down foam bricks before replacing the deck and then just used the liquid expanding foam to fill in the gaps? Thanks for the great videos.
When dose a boat need foam and when should u not use foam ??
This Whaler is not built with stringers running fire/aft. The deck is very thin, so the foam is structural in that it gives the thin deck rigidity from flexing. Foam can be use to fill voids for strength such as this example.
Well brother welcome to foam pouring.
And I don't have the answer.
I am restoring a 19' 1969 Mako.
It's a 2-3 year project that's probably will outlive me, and that's 2 deffinitions,. I either won't live long enough to finish it or it will last 150 years if a storm or hurricane doesn't destroy it.. you gotta laugh and call a spade a spade.
I have poured test batches and pondered how I'm going to get the boat poured solid in essence 1 piece as it adds strength to the hull without seams and voids in the foam.(that seems to be impossible)
I have pondered standing boat on its nose and pouring 7-10 gallons at once in close succession as it's still rising from the transom hatch.
But I also want the gunnels solid too.
I removed the cap and all water logged foam, Somebody told me I was a special kind of crazy,. and I am thinking they were right.
The 8# is best for flooring But my flooring the way I build doesn't need support.
BUT anyway as you now know 8# is like bread dough that doesn't rise.
Tempture and humidity play in all this too. Hotter is not always best, but cooler is always worse.
I have not been able to charm the perfect plan with foam,. but it's on the horizon some YEAR (i hope)
Can't wait to see yours done, and best to you.
Cheers.
Thank you for the 3 very useful tips !
Big holes 3 inch gallon size batches and use a drill to mix quick. Needs to be poured way before it starts to kick so it runs like water.
I wouldn't have re-used original floor. Start fresh with traditional stringers and core materials.
So often you bamboozled us. Now you're the one who was bamboozled 🤣
When bc it comes out put a heavy weight over hole and will go down the road further down the road underneath the floor
Love your videos.
I would tilt the hull up in front and start at the lowest point up the center giving plenty time to expand in a layered fashion
A snake scope camera would allow you to watch the area under the deck and I would think a device like that would be useful in your line of work
Maybe putting the boat on its transom and start at the bottom and pour up the deck?
Aaron,I think you need more relief holes and bigger dia my guess John
Yes, l have used that stuff, never does what you want it to. Why are you attempting to spend time with such a crappy hull?😮
Like to see how they did at the factory so I mess my project up
I think you should name this boat Nightmare...or maybe Disaster. Ambient temperature and temperature difference where the sun shone on the deck might have complicated your pour.
Is there any use both for sale??
Once the foam develops a skin it won’t mix! Keep adding while wet
How can I contact you for a quote to paint my boat?
If you don't have a way for water ti get out you will just have a a soaked sponge.
Thanks for a how to destroy a boat video
It’ll float
your holes are to small. WHen your goal is to file a large void, you need to bore a larger hole so you can see what is happening. 2-inch hole will help see what is going on.
spray foam
That floor is weak thats why
foam is FUNKY!!!
I knew this would be a total sh- show when you decided to re build a whaler. 😂they are compression molded in special molds so they don’t puff up. It’s thousands of pounds of pressure of that PU foam. It was a closely guarded secret of how they did it till the 😂 edge water boat company started.
@@CaptAceHighSurfboards are shaped then glassed. Completely different process.
Because you let it out the holes
No Mamés buey! 😂
I was just thinking...he hasn't spilled one d...Never mind
If your co worker never spoke again that would be ideal !
Unfortunately, all foam is shit to work with
😂😂😂😂😂😂
👍👍👍👍👍
haha no mames wey!!
;) No manches!
You need to get your Aussie accent a little bit better...lol
I think he was trying an English accent. It was horrible to listen to.
You're underpouring.
You need a ton more 2lb foam and a lot more vent holes so you don't distort the deck