I only play WRC for fun and I’m definitely not good enough for this, but I watched it all to learn more about cars. Great job! Seriously one of the best videos I’ve ever seen, thank you so much.
I’m trying to get into rally for real in a few years when I’m old enough. I hope to get an edge with the simulator and I think I’m pretty good getting around 200th in the world in the clubs events but they’re all on stock setup. That’s where my next step will be and this video helps a tone and if it’s able to translate into reality which I’d say it will you’ll have a big part to play in my future in the sport. Great video
Thank you very much! I also hope that sometime in the future I will be able to get my own car and compete in real rally. I hope you will be able to fulfill your dreams and get better and better at the club events! P.S. This was a very heartwarming comment! 🧡
When i built my own rally car for career mode which was a Mid engined WRC junior car. I severely underestimated the liftoff oversteer issues especially on the Sweden track. It was on edge a lot. I will try your advice and see if it helps. Thanks
@@noxnovaYT update: after adjusting the front and rear toe, increasing the preload on the differential. The car is so much easier to control and I can finally use the weight distribution advantage of the mid engine layout in the twisty stages. Also the rear camber was higher than the front camber by default for some reason so that may have been another factor as well
Just perfect Video thank you so much for Explaining everything very clearly with animations and EXAMPLES TOO 😊just perfect Video I suggest to watch till the end it's full of informations for beginners and almost pro level too again thank you for this amazing content have a nice day guys❤.
I am a complete noob to setups. This is an amazing video, more intuitive than anything I've watched in my 6 years circuit racing. I still got a bunch of questions though and would be incredibly happy if you took the time to answer those that you can. In any case this was really good, i can't sing the praise loud enough I am a little confused by the part where you say you get oversteer from a high rear LSD Driving Lock. I thought the point of a high Lock was to get better traction at the cost of understeer? Do the Differential principles apply differently to front and rear? is there any value in not having Differentials symmetrical? Did I get it right that essentially a high BRAKING Lock makes the car more stable/less prone to lockups under braking, but forces you into a straighter line while open brake lock makes lockups more dangerous because one wheel will keep spinning and that also gives you more agency to change your line slowing down allowing easier transition in the turn in phase? The Preload seemed a bit esoteric and just a tool to manipulate car balance, but i dont understand what you mean by "Depressing and releasing throttle on corner entry", because on corner entry i don't touch the throttle. This is just me being confused by what exactly you mean It seems like your approach to Brake Bias is exclusively to find the maximum stopping power. I always intuitively shifted it a bit rearwards because I like turning the car on the brakes from my experience with circuit sim racing. Is that an element I should ever consider or is it just maximum stopping power? Similar question for the ARB: is it strictly a tool to control stability when absorbing roughness? In circuit racing the ARB is mainly used to gain grip and control whether you want over or understeer. Is this a thing here or is it just about absorbing the road? Would you generally agree if I said the damper/spring/ARB all function by the principle: Soft -> better predictability and stability on rough terrain; Stiff -> More cornering grip to go actually fast?
Hi and thank you for asking! I will be very happy to answer all your questions. 😁 So, starting with the first one: The oversteer from the high rear diff lock comes because the torque will be split more evenly between the two wheels and when they get enough traction they will want to spin your car around. You must have heard the term "welded diff" in drifting. This means that the rear differential was welded to ensure 100% lock, so the wheels spin at the same speed and the torques are split equally, making the car more easily to spin around. But In other motorsports having the rear end of your car constantly trying to turn you around is not the way to go. In the second one, you are almost right. But if the braking lock is way open and one wheel will lock under braking, the car still won't be able to turn easily and you will still end up sliding. While a higher braking lock will be beneficial to the point where no wheel will lock under braking because a spinning wheel will always brake better and you will also have the ability to turn the car. About the PRELOAD you're right. What I was trying to say there is that whenever you are close to a corner you will gradually release the throttle while gradually applying the brake all the way to mid-corner. (Trail braking - which is where the effect of the preload can be felt) From there you will release the brakes while slowly accelerating to exit the corner. Well, I'd say that maximum stopping power is very important. F.e. when the McLaren Senna came out back in 2019, it had an immense stopping power compared to many other super and hypercars. This meant a huge advantage compared to other cars that had to apply the brakes and lose speed way ahead of any corner, while the Senna could zoom past them in that time and brake right before the corner entry. But in some cases braking with the rear end sliding it's good for turn-in, but to me it's not the best way to go. If I want to approach a corner like this, I will use the handbrake. The ARBs control the stiffness of the chassis, they link both suspensions from the left and right side of the car. F.e. when a car is turning left the weight is transferred to the right overloading the suspension and the tires, while the left side will get lighter. Here comes the ARB: a stiff one will not let the left suspension extend but will try to keep it at almost the same compression as the right one which will lift the wheel off the ground transferring even more weight to the wheels on the right side, up to the point where it loses traction and start sliding. A softer ARB will do the opposite: it won't care if the other suspension wants to extend, then the left side wheels will stay on the ground, but now the body roll will be higher making the car feel like a boat and unpredictable. Keep in mind that this also applies to bumps, jumps, or anything that makes the suspensions move. And finally, I totally agree with you on the last statement. This is the hardest part about tuning setups, finding a balance between all these factors on different kinds of terrains, and still go fast af. 😂 Sorry, it took so long to respond, I was out of town at a friend's wedding this weekend and only now have I found enough time to respond to all your questions. If there is something I missed, feel free to ask again. 😁
@@noxnovaYT Thanks a lot for the long response and dont worry for the "delay", it's already a massive service that you took the time after creating such a good video I will give it a thorough read when I need to build a setup the next time and maybe Ill come back at you but at this point I think I got enough input and can accept anything that still isnt intuitive to me haha
Any tips on mid-engined cars setup? I've done a season with mid-engine builder JWRC car and while the car handles great in slow and medium speed corners, in fast corners and especially asphalt, it's awfully snappy and not enjoyable. I haven't found a setup that counters this behaviour, it's like the car rotates a crazy amount mid-turn when you're going 160kph.
I haven't palyed with builder vehicle more than 5 minutes...But after I'm done with the setups series I'll tackle some other topics too, maybe this one will be one of them.
@@noxnovaYT Thanks! Looking forward to that. ATM I'm sad to say, I tested both mid-engine and front-engine concepts with going forward in my career (WRC2 for season 2) and found the mid-engined layout to be too unpredictable and snappy, as I described. I have unlocked advanced suspension for tuning, all other components are the basic, third best (new) part option. Best example and test bed of this is Croatia with high grip and long corners, where the outside wheels are loaded for a long time with varying speeds in each corner. With gravel and other lower grip surfaces, the effect is more bearable. I tried countering the excessive rotation with toe in/out and differentials, to introduce more stability and understeer, but while it made it a little bit better, I didn't find a settng that actually makes it nice to drive. But I haven't done extensive testing. Ultimately, I was still 5sec faster with the front-engine layout because I could actually trust the car, lean on the tire and push, whereas the mid-engine car felt like survival. I so wanted to like the mid-engine plot as a newcomer team to WRC, but sadly it requires a driving style which is alien. And I know the basics of driving a mid-engine car, braking in a straight line etc, from Assetto Corsa and other sims as well as other mid-engine cars from rally games. It feels like the pivot point where the weight distribution is set for each configuration, is just a bit too extreme, so I reckon it should be a bit more forward for the mid- and rear-engine layouts.
Great video! Just one question, isn't Fast Bump the one that absorbs the bumps? As in the damper compresses and releases quickly because of a small bump in the road, while the Slow Bump absorbs the jumps as it takes time between the damper to extention and retraction (due to the car being in the air for a bit)?
Great point! But not really. Let's call a bumpy road a road with small jumps that don't necessarily make the car lift off the ground. So when the car hits a small jump, the shock that has to be absorbed will be also small (slow). But a big jump that makes the car take off, upon landing the induced shock will be much higher (fast). So it's about the shock severity basically. Like I said at 08:10. 😁
Salutare. Multumim ptr informatii, desi nu prea imi place sa imi nasul in astfel de setari, cam trebuie s-o fac. Datorita tutorialului pot intelege cat si la ce sa umblu. Cred ca ar merge ceva tutoriale si in romana ptr mica comunitate de romani (cel putin pe mine m-ar ajuta sa inteleg mai bine) :D Spor in continuare. PS. M-am abonat la canal :D
Salut! Imi pare bine ca te-am ajutat! Pentru WRC1 am o colectie cu preset-uri pentru majoritatea locatiilor si urmeaza sa mai scot clipuri pana ce am sa le parcurg pe toate. Din pacate tocmai din cauza faptului ca, comunitatea din Romania este mica nu prea mi se merita sa fac videoclipuri in limba Romana. Dureaza cel putin o zi sa scriptez, inregistrez si sa montez un simplu videoclip de tip "Setup Guide". Nu zic ca nu am sa fac niciodata, dar momentan ma rezum doar la videoclipuri in limba engleza. Mersi mult ca te-ai alaturat comunitatii, te astept si pe grupul de Discord pentru mai multe povesti, informatii, etc. Gasesti link in descriere.
helped me to improve a lot but i have a question: can i set this setup for wrc cars too or is this just for wrc2 cars? and... can we set this setup for other vehicle classes too?
Sure you can! The video explains the principle behind how every component works, which applies to every car class and even in real life. I chose a WRC2 car just to give some examples of how to approach the setups for each situation. But the principle is the same for any car.
@@noxnovaYT thanks for answer but this setup values in video cant put in wrc setup because wrc cars have other option values thats why i asked... for example: the damping values are different like in wrc2 car
@@daryuskeccaa Oh yeah, I see what you mean now. No, unfortunately...the values you see at the end of each example are for the Skoda Fabia RS Rally 2 only. But stay tuned because this week I'm starting a new "Setup Guide" series for the WRC 1 cars. 😁
@@noxnovaYT OOOO im very happy to hear that because i improved my times overall and in all surfaces i can tell you you are amazingly talented and i cant enough to thank you for your help thank you and your work
I guess that if you take a RWD car, set the driving and braking lock to 100, zero preload, and lower the tire and wheel friction in FF settings, it should be achievable at some degree. 😅
I know that some cars cannot reach 100%, but I also know some cars that can reach full lock. Take for example the Lancia Delta Integrale in Croatia and do this: front LSD 0% on all 3 settings, viscous diff 0, bias all the way to the rear (put the slider all the way to the left) and rear LSD on full lock with zero perload.
@@noxnovaYT where those setting ? I am using xsx with ts-xw. if you talking about FF for wheel? that doesn't make sense for me. its just setting for force feedback on the wheel not for the tire of the cars.
@@kennygo5053 Yes tire and wheel friction are forcefeedback settings, but I recomanded to lower those just to be easier to steer faster from left to right.
Those are just mere introductions on how to set the cars for different kinds of terrains. Later on, I started making elaborate videos for each location, and I'm still working on them. For now, on my channel, you can find setup guides for Kenya, Croatia, Portugal, Italy, Mexico, Estonia, Finland and Greece will come out this week.
Your videos are great. I hope you keep creating them for WRC. They’ve been the best I’ve found so far
Thank you so much! I won't let you down that's for sure! 💪
I only play WRC for fun and I’m definitely not good enough for this, but I watched it all to learn more about cars. Great job! Seriously one of the best videos I’ve ever seen, thank you so much.
Awesome! Thank you!
Very clear explanation! Thanks a lot
I'm glad it was helpful. Thank you very much for your support!
VERY UNDERRATED channel dude !
Your the setup guru !!
Using your guide I’ve gotten a few top 50 spots cannot thank you enough
Subbed 🤜🏽🤛🏽
Thank you so much! I'm really happy to hear this! 💪
You are the god of setup guides.Saying only as much as needed,straight to the point and excellent explanations.Great video 👍👍
Thank you so so much! 😁 Bless you son. 🙏
@@noxnovaYT 😊😃
I’m trying to get into rally for real in a few years when I’m old enough. I hope to get an edge with the simulator and I think I’m pretty good getting around 200th in the world in the clubs events but they’re all on stock setup. That’s where my next step will be and this video helps a tone and if it’s able to translate into reality which I’d say it will you’ll have a big part to play in my future in the sport. Great video
Thank you very much! I also hope that sometime in the future I will be able to get my own car and compete in real rally. I hope you will be able to fulfill your dreams and get better and better at the club events! P.S. This was a very heartwarming comment! 🧡
Thanks!😊
You are so welcome! Thank you very much for the huge support! 😊
thats what i am looking for, found at last, only in this channel. thank you mate, subscripted!
Awesome, love to hear this! Thank you!
I have to ask since im an editor IRL, were you saying subscripted for fun or did you mean to say subscribed? 🙂
Your guide helped me shave off 2 minutes to my time on Portugal and Italy. Thanks bro
Now this is a huuge improvement! Well done!
When i built my own rally car for career mode which was a Mid engined WRC junior car. I severely underestimated the liftoff oversteer issues especially on the Sweden track. It was on edge a lot. I will try your advice and see if it helps. Thanks
Great! I expect some feedback. 😁
@@noxnovaYT update: after adjusting the front and rear toe, increasing the preload on the differential. The car is so much easier to control and I can finally use the weight distribution advantage of the mid engine layout in the twisty stages. Also the rear camber was higher than the front camber by default for some reason so that may have been another factor as well
Super helpful was always to confused to tune cars this made complete sense
Glad to hear this! 😁
You can further show your support by clicking the "Thanks" button. 🔝
Like, share, and subscribe are also extremely appreciated! 🙏
Sir, you have gained a like and a subscriber with this amazing video. I’ll be challenging your times soon in EA WRC when VR comes on April 30th !
Thank you so much! I will be waiting! 😎
Im deeply in love with your accent
Thanks 👌
Just perfect Video thank you so much for Explaining everything very clearly with animations and EXAMPLES TOO 😊just perfect Video I suggest to watch till the end it's full of informations for beginners and almost pro level too again thank you for this amazing content have a nice day guys❤.
Better listen to this man because he is talking straight facts right here! 💯
Thank you so much! Have a great day! 😊
Only thanks to this man I am 13 on the Leaderboard in Provodovice Central Europe Rally I did it only with grind and solid Setup thank you for it ❤
Good job! 💪 That's exactly what I want to hear!
I am a complete noob to setups. This is an amazing video, more intuitive than anything I've watched in my 6 years circuit racing. I still got a bunch of questions though and would be incredibly happy if you took the time to answer those that you can. In any case this was really good, i can't sing the praise loud enough
I am a little confused by the part where you say you get oversteer from a high rear LSD Driving Lock. I thought the point of a high Lock was to get better traction at the cost of understeer? Do the Differential principles apply differently to front and rear? is there any value in not having Differentials symmetrical?
Did I get it right that essentially a high BRAKING Lock makes the car more stable/less prone to lockups under braking, but forces you into a straighter line while open brake lock makes lockups more dangerous because one wheel will keep spinning and that also gives you more agency to change your line slowing down allowing easier transition in the turn in phase?
The Preload seemed a bit esoteric and just a tool to manipulate car balance, but i dont understand what you mean by "Depressing and releasing throttle on corner entry", because on corner entry i don't touch the throttle. This is just me being confused by what exactly you mean
It seems like your approach to Brake Bias is exclusively to find the maximum stopping power. I always intuitively shifted it a bit rearwards because I like turning the car on the brakes from my experience with circuit sim racing. Is that an element I should ever consider or is it just maximum stopping power?
Similar question for the ARB: is it strictly a tool to control stability when absorbing roughness? In circuit racing the ARB is mainly used to gain grip and control whether you want over or understeer. Is this a thing here or is it just about absorbing the road?
Would you generally agree if I said the damper/spring/ARB all function by the principle: Soft -> better predictability and stability on rough terrain; Stiff -> More cornering grip to go actually fast?
Hi and thank you for asking! I will be very happy to answer all your questions. 😁
So, starting with the first one: The oversteer from the high rear diff lock comes because the torque will be split more evenly between the two wheels and when they get enough traction they will want to spin your car around. You must have heard the term "welded diff" in drifting. This means that the rear differential was welded to ensure 100% lock, so the wheels spin at the same speed and the torques are split equally, making the car more easily to spin around. But In other motorsports having the rear end of your car constantly trying to turn you around is not the way to go.
In the second one, you are almost right. But if the braking lock is way open and one wheel will lock under braking, the car still won't be able to turn easily and you will still end up sliding. While a higher braking lock will be beneficial to the point where no wheel will lock under braking because a spinning wheel will always brake better and you will also have the ability to turn the car.
About the PRELOAD you're right. What I was trying to say there is that whenever you are close to a corner you will gradually release the throttle while gradually applying the brake all the way to mid-corner. (Trail braking - which is where the effect of the preload can be felt) From there you will release the brakes while slowly accelerating to exit the corner.
Well, I'd say that maximum stopping power is very important. F.e. when the McLaren Senna came out back in 2019, it had an immense stopping power compared to many other super and hypercars. This meant a huge advantage compared to other cars that had to apply the brakes and lose speed way ahead of any corner, while the Senna could zoom past them in that time and brake right before the corner entry. But in some cases braking with the rear end sliding it's good for turn-in, but to me it's not the best way to go. If I want to approach a corner like this, I will use the handbrake.
The ARBs control the stiffness of the chassis, they link both suspensions from the left and right side of the car. F.e. when a car is turning left the weight is transferred to the right overloading the suspension and the tires, while the left side will get lighter. Here comes the ARB: a stiff one will not let the left suspension extend but will try to keep it at almost the same compression as the right one which will lift the wheel off the ground transferring even more weight to the wheels on the right side, up to the point where it loses traction and start sliding. A softer ARB will do the opposite: it won't care if the other suspension wants to extend, then the left side wheels will stay on the ground, but now the body roll will be higher making the car feel like a boat and unpredictable. Keep in mind that this also applies to bumps, jumps, or anything that makes the suspensions move.
And finally, I totally agree with you on the last statement. This is the hardest part about tuning setups, finding a balance between all these factors on different kinds of terrains, and still go fast af. 😂
Sorry, it took so long to respond, I was out of town at a friend's wedding this weekend and only now have I found enough time to respond to all your questions. If there is something I missed, feel free to ask again. 😁
@@noxnovaYT Thanks a lot for the long response and dont worry for the "delay", it's already a massive service that you took the time after creating such a good video
I will give it a thorough read when I need to build a setup the next time and maybe Ill come back at you but at this point I think I got enough input and can accept anything that still isnt intuitive to me haha
thank you thank you so much you helped me a lot :) please keep your work
I'm so glad to hear this! Be sure I will.
Nice and working setups, thx, i was little faster than you in Sweden with your setups👍
Haha, great to hear this! I only did around 15 laps on that map and focused on the setup rather than learning the track.
Great video man!
Thanks! Glad you liked it!
Thank you this really helped me
I'm so glad!
this is soooo helpful! thank you! 🎉🎉
And I'm sooo glad to hear this! 😁
@@noxnovaYT yes because i was really struggling understanding dampers from the videos ive watched but this one is so much easier to understand. ❤️
Great video. Thank you
Thanks! Glad you liked it!
Great explanation, very informative.
Glad it was helpful!
I'm still a bit confused about the dampers and springs. Does going left on the settings make them stiffer or softer?
Glad you asked! Go left (-) to go soft and go right (+) to go stiff.
THX! Very helpfull. The Game si complete different now. :D
Thank you! I'm so happy to hear this! 😌
Great video thank you.
Thanks! Glad it helped.
Any tips on mid-engined cars setup? I've done a season with mid-engine builder JWRC car and while the car handles great in slow and medium speed corners, in fast corners and especially asphalt, it's awfully snappy and not enjoyable. I haven't found a setup that counters this behaviour, it's like the car rotates a crazy amount mid-turn when you're going 160kph.
I haven't palyed with builder vehicle more than 5 minutes...But after I'm done with the setups series I'll tackle some other topics too, maybe this one will be one of them.
@@noxnovaYT Thanks! Looking forward to that. ATM I'm sad to say, I tested both mid-engine and front-engine concepts with going forward in my career (WRC2 for season 2) and found the mid-engined layout to be too unpredictable and snappy, as I described. I have unlocked advanced suspension for tuning, all other components are the basic, third best (new) part option. Best example and test bed of this is Croatia with high grip and long corners, where the outside wheels are loaded for a long time with varying speeds in each corner. With gravel and other lower grip surfaces, the effect is more bearable. I tried countering the excessive rotation with toe in/out and differentials, to introduce more stability and understeer, but while it made it a little bit better, I didn't find a settng that actually makes it nice to drive. But I haven't done extensive testing. Ultimately, I was still 5sec faster with the front-engine layout because I could actually trust the car, lean on the tire and push, whereas the mid-engine car felt like survival. I so wanted to like the mid-engine plot as a newcomer team to WRC, but sadly it requires a driving style which is alien. And I know the basics of driving a mid-engine car, braking in a straight line etc, from Assetto Corsa and other sims as well as other mid-engine cars from rally games. It feels like the pivot point where the weight distribution is set for each configuration, is just a bit too extreme, so I reckon it should be a bit more forward for the mid- and rear-engine layouts.
Great video! Just one question, isn't Fast Bump the one that absorbs the bumps? As in the damper compresses and releases quickly because of a small bump in the road, while the Slow Bump absorbs the jumps as it takes time between the damper to extention and retraction (due to the car being in the air for a bit)?
Great point! But not really. Let's call a bumpy road a road with small jumps that don't necessarily make the car lift off the ground. So when the car hits a small jump, the shock that has to be absorbed will be also small (slow). But a big jump that makes the car take off, upon landing the induced shock will be much higher (fast). So it's about the shock severity basically. Like I said at 08:10. 😁
@@noxnovaYT oh boy, this is going to be hard to flip in my head :D. Thanks dude. Again great video!
@@the-skn Thank you! Anytime!
很詳細的解說並且舉例! 對我非常有幫助! 感謝!!
太感謝了
Salutare.
Multumim ptr informatii, desi nu prea imi place sa imi nasul in astfel de setari, cam trebuie s-o fac. Datorita tutorialului pot intelege cat si la ce sa umblu. Cred ca ar merge ceva tutoriale si in romana ptr mica comunitate de romani (cel putin pe mine m-ar ajuta sa inteleg mai bine) :D
Spor in continuare.
PS. M-am abonat la canal :D
Salut!
Imi pare bine ca te-am ajutat! Pentru WRC1 am o colectie cu preset-uri pentru majoritatea locatiilor si urmeaza sa mai scot clipuri pana ce am sa le parcurg pe toate. Din pacate tocmai din cauza faptului ca, comunitatea din Romania este mica nu prea mi se merita sa fac videoclipuri in limba Romana. Dureaza cel putin o zi sa scriptez, inregistrez si sa montez un simplu videoclip de tip "Setup Guide". Nu zic ca nu am sa fac niciodata, dar momentan ma rezum doar la videoclipuri in limba engleza.
Mersi mult ca te-ai alaturat comunitatii, te astept si pe grupul de Discord pentru mai multe povesti, informatii, etc. Gasesti link in descriere.
@@noxnovaYT salutare. am intrat si pe discord si am gasit si club-ul pe racenet, doar ca apare ca inactiv.
@@aleecs_ytb Pe Racenet cluburile apar active doar in acele 4-5 zile cand este un eveniment in desfasurare.
Great video!
At 2:09 by lower you meant more closer to 0?
Thnaks! Yes, closer to zero. 👌
@@noxnovaYT got it!
Really good guide, clear explanation, so easy to understand. Thanks for the video.
@@solidcopy2822 Thank you so much! I'm glad it was helpful!
Great guide thx !
Thank you! Glad you like it!
👍
👌
Love your Video THX!
Thanks! You are welcome!
Salut. Foarte bun video! Ești din România?
Mersi mult! Da 🇷🇴
helped me to improve a lot but i have a question: can i set this setup for wrc cars too or is this just for wrc2 cars? and... can we set this setup for other vehicle classes too?
Sure you can! The video explains the principle behind how every component works, which applies to every car class and even in real life. I chose a WRC2 car just to give some examples of how to approach the setups for each situation. But the principle is the same for any car.
@@noxnovaYT thanks for answer but this setup values in video cant put in wrc setup because wrc cars have other option values thats why i asked... for example: the damping values are different like in wrc2 car
@@daryuskeccaa Oh yeah, I see what you mean now. No, unfortunately...the values you see at the end of each example are for the Skoda Fabia RS Rally 2 only. But stay tuned because this week I'm starting a new "Setup Guide" series for the WRC 1 cars. 😁
@@noxnovaYT OOOO im very happy to hear that because i improved my times overall and in all surfaces i can tell you you are amazingly talented and i cant enough to thank you for your help thank you and your work
i fucking love this video
Love to hear this! 😁
Do these settings work on any car or group?
Yes sir. These principles apply to every car and surface.
is there any setup to make cars drift on Tarmac?
I guess that if you take a RWD car, set the driving and braking lock to 100, zero preload, and lower the tire and wheel friction in FF settings, it should be achievable at some degree. 😅
@@noxnovaYT but there is no 100% lock. Max value is around 50%.
I know that some cars cannot reach 100%, but I also know some cars that can reach full lock. Take for example the Lancia Delta Integrale in Croatia and do this: front LSD 0% on all 3 settings, viscous diff 0, bias all the way to the rear (put the slider all the way to the left) and rear LSD on full lock with zero perload.
@@noxnovaYT where those setting ? I am using xsx with ts-xw. if you talking about FF for wheel? that doesn't make sense for me. its just setting for force feedback on the wheel not for the tire of the cars.
@@kennygo5053 Yes tire and wheel friction are forcefeedback settings, but I recomanded to lower those just to be easier to steer faster from left to right.
Molto interessante, grazie della consivisione
Grazie! Contento che ti piaccia.
Why do you speed through the setup parts? I blink my eyes and you are already on the next screen
Those are just mere introductions on how to set the cars for different kinds of terrains. Later on, I started making elaborate videos for each location, and I'm still working on them. For now, on my channel, you can find setup guides for Kenya, Croatia, Portugal, Italy, Mexico, Estonia, Finland and Greece will come out this week.
C&C Generals war ja auch ein reines Propagandaspiel, wenngleich auch auf satirische Art und Weise!
Great video, thank you
Glad you enjoyed it!