Uni-Byte 0189 - The Little WEL3005 based DC Load - Plus An ATTEMPT to Conjure Magic Smoke!
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- Опубліковано 25 тра 2024
- A few of my viewers commented that they'd like to take a look at this little DC load based on the WEL3005 module. There is also some bonus updates at the end one in which we look at some fuses we recently bought.
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Great load and wow ! that fuse was kinda scary......cheers.
Scary is right!
A wonderful multi-project focus episode.....many thanks. Hey, those fuses are even better than my double-wrap aluminum foil ones. I need to get the seller details from you. ;-) Thanks for a fun video.
LOL! Thanks!
I just ordered one of the loads from Amazon, $25 and change US delivered. At first I watched this video thinking I had no real use for an electronic load but I was curious what features it offered. But then I looked over at my large assortment of used rechargeable batteries from old laptops and such that I don't use in projects because I don't really know their condition, so I keep buying new ones. It then occurred to me that if I could just feel confident in using those old batteries in even a couple of projects it would more than pay for the cost of the electronic load. So thanks again for the review and another good product suggestion. Now I wish I'd bought one a couple of weeks ago.
You're welcome!
5:15.- since the power dissipation unit separates form the control/display it would be possible to mount the heatsink at the rear of the enclosure with a vent opening for the fan to expel the heat generated by the load
You could do that for sure, but I think the vents in the case might be enough to get rid of 30W of heat. Especially with the fan to move air around.
Louis Rossman did a video a while ago on the fuse situation... whole lotta "assorted fuse kit"s on Amazon (mainly looking at radial car insert ones) that are nothing like their ratings, and almost impossible to find any listings from any sort of reputable brand rather than an alphabet soup one. I expect it's a similar situation over at Ali and eBay.
I saw that. I think fuses are an area where you should be careful. Spend the money on the real thing. It seems a lot of folks have covered information on fuses, but the only people that watch are those few that are into the technical side of things. 99% of the population will see a cheap fuse kit on Amazon or AliExpress and just buy it because it's cheap. They won't bother to do any research on how this might be a very bad idea.
It's clear that it's intended purpose was as a small battery tester, but it can be used for a lot of different load testing.
It sure can. I use it for most of my needs at 25W or less. But you're right, it was intended primarily for battery testing.
That 2N3055 also looks to me like a Chinesium one. If it is they blow at around 700mA load.
Maybe. Got these bout 20 years ago but none have failed on me in use yet.
Your 10F cap could have maybe perhaps blown that fuse?
I should give it a try!
Though the Asian fuse very likely has fake ratings, there is a great amount of misunderstanding about fuse ratings, within the EE community... Looking at OEM fuse data sheets and doing some testing would make a good video. I have seen such videos and, as a teaser, fuses do not work as you would expect. So, please make a fuse tutorial. The load module is a nice build. Even at only 30 watts, it should be quite useful. I DIY'd my e-load, from the circuit up and I learned a ton. So, a video on MOSFET load circuits would be educational and interesting. And, as you place emphasis on economy for folks just starting, you could include DIY load methods that are inexpensive... Incandescent light bulbs, wire out of an old space heater, DC fans, etc... Thank you for all that you do to teach and share. Cheers.
Some good ideas there. As you say, there is a lot more to fuses than meets the eye. The challenge in doing a video on fuses is what and how much to cover and determining where you might loose your audience. Some people might watch a fairly full treatment of the subject, but most, not so much. The video on loads sounds interesting too. Thanks.
@@uni-byte I think there would be interest in teaching what are the misconceptions and what are the facts... Such as = It is a myth that fuses blow instantly, the very moment that their amperage rating is exceeded... How poorly even OEM fuses meet their specifications. How to calculate a fuse value from scratch, too... Thanks for considering it...
@@t1d100 That sounds like a reasonable approach. I will consider it. Thanks.
At least the Chinese can make fuses you can count on not to blow up.
LOL! It sure looks that way.
Does it have a decently accurate internal resistance test?
That's an excellent question. To be absolutely honest I have not put it to the test. Maybe I should do that one day. Thanks for the idea!
Are you sure your power supply isn’t limiting the current?
It's limiting for sure, but at the current passing through the meter. Kirkoff's current law holds.
He measured the 6A in the multimeter. In constant current mode the powersupply of course limits the voltage, but that should not matter for the fuse.
But I think the fuse still might be ok. A 2A fuse must survive 3.5 A for at least one hour and is allowed to survive 6A for some seconds. So maybe the 11 seconds he tested with 6A were ja bit too short.
.
@@jeanyluisa8483 Fuses come in a huge variety of configurations. This particular fuse was supposed to be a fast acting fuse. Generally, at least according to manufacturers like Littlelfuse, Bussman, Bell and Siemens, fast acting fuses should blow in between .15 and 5 second at twice their rated current and about 0.1 seconds or less at 3 times their rated current. There are also mid-blow, slow-blow and myriad other type of fuses that have time delays and many other characteristics. However I have never seen a fast-blow fuse that is supposed to last 1 hours at 175% rate current and certainly not 11 seconds at 300%.
With a 30 W max you have to be careful with the amps above 5 volts:
Volt Ampere Watt
1 5,0 5
2 5,0 10
3 5,0 15
4 5,0 20
5 5,0 25
6 5,0 30
7 4,3 30
8 3,8 30
9 3,3 30
10 3,0 30
11 2,7 30
12 2,5 30
13 2,3 30
14 2,1 30
15 2,0 30
16 1,9 30
17 1,8 30
18 1,7 30
19 1,6 30
20 1,5 30
21 1,4 30
22 1,4 30
23 1,3 30
24 1,3 30
25 1,2 30
26 1,2 30
27 1,1 30
28 1,1 30
29 1,0 30
30 1,0 30
You can set a power limit on it and if that power is exceeded the unit will turn off and break the circuit.
Did you used to work on logarithmic tables, by any chance? ;-)