Відео

$10,000 dollars for that steno machine is probably based on demand and the limited use for it. And the nature of our capitalistic system. One could buy a nice artsy steampunk wristwatch for that amount. You do you!

No need to rip off the buyer for a simple repair job. Seems to me they were already ripped off once. It just gives the industry a bad name. People recommend car mechanics for this very reason.

I don't charge at all. But I do accept what the person offers me. Which is usually more than I would have asked for. But then I don't have a business doing this, just a hobby kind of thing. Great video!

I would charge normal, the parts inside are probably the same as in the least expensive models so labor +parts

When you have a business, and you want to make money, it makes sense to charge based on the value the customer is willing to pay you. Regardless of how much it cost you to produce the thing. You, as a repairman, can charge as much as the value of a repair is to this customer. The customer can either have it repaired, or buy a new one. And the customer can have it repaired with you, or someone else. So given the option to either buy a new one for $10k, or get it repaired by someone for $200-$500, the customer is definitely willing to pay you more than another customer who has a throwaway device. For example, another customer who has a device whose total cost is $200, is not going to be as willing to pay you the $150 charge to repair it, because the value to that customer is much lower - both from the device, and the repair.

I tend to charge only for the work that I do. The value of my time is always the same, although the cost of parts may be higher in high-value gear. I assume they can charge that price because there is only a limited market for stenographer keyboards. However, if the profit-margin is that high then shouldn't that stimulate competition? Is there anything special about the mechanical constructions of the actual keys? Perhaps a patented design? I wonder if they offer a warranty that helps justify the price.

Nice little meter. Kind of interested in that. As far as labor goes. I never upcharge. Always just charge normal rate. Return business beats no business.

So many parts, so little time. :) I used to use felt pens to try to color polarize connectors. But they faded pretty badly with time. Then I realized that cheap black and red fingernail polish worked really well for that job. I now have an assortment of colors of cheap fingernail polish in my toolbox to ID various voltages and signals. It doesn't dry instantly, but it's bright and lasts a very long time. I like your soldering iron holder. The old ones made with a big spring were great for melting AC or DC power cables, and BNC signal cables that dropped between the turns of the spring, pretty much any wire that dropped between the turns. Very versatile. BTW, I used to say, "Onwards, and downwards!"

I have always charged according to my usual rate. It is a matter of personal principle.

All the WI-FI sockets I've seen were SMA's.

I had considered getting a gpsdo as an exxternal reference for my scopes and function generators. Having seen this and the price , that idea is out the window and it's hello ebay and CTI. Thanks for that.

with this 6074BC model being specified with a bandwidth of 70 MHz, but still apparently being able to handle 250 MHz (albeit with amplitude loss), I am wondering how far the Hantek6254BC with its specififed bandwidth of 250 MHz can be operated above its specification.

Great Picaxe stuff !

I wish I knew how to use that program to design your PCB, you make it look so easy!

At least its harder to turn off the alarm in the morning when your half asleep😅

Just bought one based largely on your review! Thanks!

how to calculate frequency ?. I have to make 50khz for 10v input. and with 1v of decrement will going by 5khz. Could you please explain that.

Qualcomm QC and PD are different protocols. Your soldering iron is probably PD as QC is mainly for the charge controller for the snapdragon SOC.

I bought one of these clocks from AliExpress for US$3 about 8 yrs ago ! I love that its 24hr time and having the seconds counting all the time 👍😁 Mine worked 100% first time 😜 The buttons are a bit backwards for the display layout. I used an old Nokia phone charger to power mine 👍

I totally agree with you, I'm an old school sponge user as well. I have a foil like type too and don't find it useful no matter what I hear.

Does the red wire (positive) same DC current as black wire (negative) when using UT210E ?

I find that using a wet sponge to clean my soldering iron tip cools off my tip (soaks some heat away) so I switched to the brass wool soldering iron tip cleaner. I guess this is all dependent on how quickly your soldering iron can recover the set soldering temperature though. Just my $0.02.

New standard for USB C is now 48 V PD 3.1 so I imagine this one maxes out at 28 V 140 W any of these power meters that I purchase has to go up to 48 V at 5 A 240 W all these other ones are old technology... PD 3.0

Mistakes lead to learning.! You could build the timer into a box or case, add a battery. NiMH battery's can be left on a trickle-charge for months at a time. 20mA ~ 40mA would be a reasonable value. The right value hobbiest solar cell would be enough. 6 battery's comes to 7.2volts.

How would you turn the alarm off so that it doesn’t go off the next day? Can you set it to 00:00:00?

You don’t have one of those fancy solder suckers?

The fnirsi 58 bluetooth model is much better build with full body metal casing

When these gizmos were entering the market, I realized that being able to reach in and read different things on the USB lines could be very beneficial. However, being suspicious of the quality of inexpensive Asian electronics, I thought it would be better to use my own lab-grade test gear to do measurements. Accordingly, I developed a PCB board to facilitate easy access to the USB lines. I call it "The Tapper." Here is how it is arranged... USB-A Input connector to Test Point Loops to Jumpers to a second set of Test Point Loops to USB-B Output connector. Different connector cords can make any needed connection, between the devices being observed. Here is how it works... A Jumper can be lifted, breaking a connection, and a meter can be inserted in series. Or, readings can be taking with the broken connection, on the Test Loops, on either side of the break. Additionally, the jumper can be left in place and traffic can be observed, via the Test Loops. You can configure any arrangement that you need to read any, or all, of the four lines. You could also use it to inject a charge on a battery powered device. Easy to DIY by any means... Point to Point, Perf Board, or have a board manufactured, for you to solder up. Way cheaper than the Gizmo. Way better information, via your own lab equipment, too. Cheers.

You may need to turn the PD-COM switch off, to let the usb-c soldering iron do the power negotiation, instead of the usb meter. It may need to use a different protocol (probably PD) to get 20V from that charger. In that mode, if plugged into a usb-c charger, the meter won't turn on until the device (soldering iron) does the negotiation. Also note that you may need to turn one of the usb-c plugs 180° (while you should be able to plug usb-c either orientation, that only holds for 1 cable between host/device/charger, not 2 joined/chained cables ... usually usb-c cables have just 1 CC wire, host or device ports detect orientation, but the join is not really handled, it's not strictly speaking to usb spec ...)

I have both the 48P (bluetooth version in my home and the 58 in my workshop. I love the 48P with its cellphone app. Can always monitor remotely if the device I am trying to charge is charging or not… always having issues with cables…

Great review. I bought the same usb tester from aliexpress a while back and it's a handy little device but I've never been able to get the cable test mode to work. I might not be doing it properly so I'll probably read the manual and try again. Oh and if I remember right I think they have some Pc software you can download that works with this model and the newer one.

Good explained

nicely done. will look at modifying mine more professionally like yours. Thanks

Just bought one of these. Luckily, the Blue one. What I'd really like to find is a case for the whole kit. Something to keep all the bits like the power supply, the power cord, the tips and all in one place so they don't get scattered around and lost. So, any ideas about a case for this baby?

Helping the dog = a wonderful project! The dog could be trained to come to you, when it beeps, rather than you being trained to go find the dog, when it beeps. Then, the timer could be made smaller and attached to the dog's collar. Tip regarding brass sponges = I can not list all of the benefits of brass sponges over wet sponges, here. But, for a lot of scientific reasons, they are better. For example, wet sponges draw all of the heat out of the tip, needlessly. So, if you don't know why, research it. Also... The brass sponge holders come in two types... The round ball type, that U-B uses in his video, and a dish type that does not wrap over the top of the sponge. You want the ball type. Why? Because, without the top dome, the dish type allows the springiness of the sponge to sling solder all over the place.

PCBWay are awesome !! Their support of the hobbyist community and the number of small electronics channels they help sponsor is HUGE 👍

I prefer a sponge with water to clean my iron. The steam bubbles clean the iron more thoroughly. You take good care of your dog. Good man.

8-bit ADC? What microcontroller is it?

awesome idea! Thank you!

Hi, I am deciding between the DHO914s and a SDS814x HD. I think I definitely want the sigilent model since I don’t really like the buggy stuff I’ve seen with the Rigol especially the big problem with the Bode plots, and I don’t really like its logic analyzer bugs, (or need to spend $400 for the probe lol) I am mainly going to use for analog circuits and debugging fairly low speed digital circuits. May try to eventually mess with some high frequency radio stuff in the future too. I would appreciate hearing your suggestion. Thank you!

I'm so sick of ali express and their phony emails that list stuff I can't actually buy from my address that I cancelled my account and just use banngood these days.

Good tip. I trust the company irons out that issue. My decision has been in flux regarding the pigtail. I know my wife would give me a lot of heat if I damaged one. But time is a wasting, I better get the lead out and order. I'm getting hot under the collar. Thank you for the video. Gotta' go. She's has my patty melt ready!

Good stuff! Can never have too many fans IMO. I steal them out of everything and have a 1/2 drawer for nothing but fans. How long do the batts last on the soldering irons? I picked one up and it is real good if the batt lasted longer than 20 mins. 🤬

if you like hs-01 you will love ts-100 :) bought it as a joke for meetups at first. but then i started using it... now its my first choice on the bench with a ac barrelplug or dc xt60 for field use. best iron i ever used.

Does the "brass" wool of the soldering iron cleaner stick to a magnet?

Thanks for posting. I own the TS100 soldering iron. I love it. It was around $55.00.

Very fun mailbag. I'm going to need to pick up some of those probes.

The soldering iron tip thermometer I also bought, not knowing "Bakon" stole Hakon's design, cheapened it, then 'Bakon' distributors sells the replacement thermister gizmos with Hakon on the blister pack. Well, that 'saved' a few hundred bucks, eh? ;-) Above 9V on your generator will show these are not trustworthy. See my fake ICs note in the leader video

I click checkout and they boot my transaction for safety concerns. Does anyone else experience this amine these Chinese sites?