I'm officially a crutchfield fanboy. No idea what i was doing this weekend dropping that kind of money on a sytem having no idea about nothing. When i came to my senses and reached out to costumer support with my concern; they checked all the orders i made in the last 3 days and said the parts i chose would indeed go well toward making a great system. Thank you, Tom.
Thanks for the feedback and the story! We will let Tom know his help was appreciated!! We offer lifetime technical support that can help guide you through any installation hiccups or questions. Their phone number is included on the order invoice to help make it easy to reach them
Having been in car audio since 1997 and having a degree in electronics, I can say this is a good video for beginners. I like all of the explanations of the different types. Very good.
I would say get an amplifier that has at least 50% more power than the RMS rating. Because of the impedance rise caused by the box, your sub will never see anywhere near the power that your amp puts out at nominal load. Also, it’s better to have a bigger amp running low than having a smaller amp running at it’s limit all the time.
Exactly, the sub will only suck in the amount of power it needs and it is not recommended to have the amp gain at max to give some buffer so the amp will last a long time
I would never say what you said. The only reason to get a more powerful amp would be if in the future you knew you were going to add another sub. In other words, the video is correct. For instance, 200 watts = 150-200 watt amp... _NOT 300 watts!_ Regarding amp/s and upgrade/s, it would also have to deduce possibly more channels, such as going from 2 or 4 to 8, in the case of going active on the mid-woofers, tweeters, (mids), keeping the original sub amp and then replacing the other amp with enough channels, or possibly _two_ more amps, (depends). In this case, you would probably want to get rid of the original amp and just add two amps with enough power and channels (with DSP). (Again, depends.)* And, on and on and...! *If the low, deep sub sound is upgraded/more powerful and drowns out most everything else, well, some people may like that, but most people probably will not. "Also, it’s better to have a bigger amp running low than having a smaller amp running at it’s limit all the time." That, in no manner or form, applies! If it does, that's because the system was not properly configured/designed/wired/powered. And, for the most part, and the vast majority of the time, "impedance rise caused by the box" is not even relevant. Again, all of the previous. IOW, your post is bad advice. Don't get insulted. Take this as a learning experience. Obviously, someone such as yourself should have a pro do the design/installation according to your budget. Or, at least the design according to your taste/budget, choose the equipment/wiring, and you do the installation. To whoever: Crutchfield has great service!
You forgot to mention how it gets addicting lol I started with a single 8 on 100 watts now I’m at two 15’s on 3500 watts in a box that is so big I had to assemble it in my trunk!
The thing he didn't mention was 'free air', which is subwoofer put usually on rear deck. This option is good for guys who want low bass sub, that doesn't take so much space.
To all you new/young drivers it’s better to be the person with the cool stereo system than to be the person that drives to fast wants to race and put peoples lives in danger every time you get into a vehicle. True playing loud music and not being considerate of other people and time of day it is can maybe get you a ticket by police. But no one with a loud stereo has gotten there license taken away or car towed or killed anyone-SPEEDING on the other hand is not an IF but A WHEN it will all go wrong and all the above could happen. And it’s a good argument for your parents to say I want a nice stereo system so I can enjoy my car and to drive slower to enjoy my music. Insurance doesn’t care what Audio you have in your car and your friends will always know when you’ve arrived-sometimes know when your around the block. But be considerate and you’ll never have a problem. And it’s a cool hobby and has a huge community all with mostly good folks always willing to help someone new to the audio world 🔊🔊
It's a hard decision because I would like the way 2 10s would hit in a sealed box, but I also like the way dual 12s in a ported box would sound. I think I would go with 12s in a ported box though. Won't hit as hard but still get kind of the best of both ..mainly sound quality.
Sealed is always better. Why? Sound Quality. Yes, ported can hit harder at a particular frequency. But you end up with port noise, and possible mechanical noise from the woofer itself (the excursion noise). Some people don't notice it, or simply don't care. Only get the sub in a tiny plastic housing with amp built in if you are pressed for room. Those kinds of things can fit under the seat, but they wont sound as good as a dedicated sub in a box, with an external amp. My first system I ever had was a 12" kicker in a sealed box in my 1993 del sol. I loved that system. Kicker speakers all around, single kicker 12." You could literally hear me coming down the street. My buddy would always say "I heard you coming" and it wasn't anything special. I didn't have 1000 watts of sub power. I had the door speakers connected to the headunit power (pioneer, so 15w x4) and then one of those walmart crunch amps. Way back when I didn't know shit. Got the 12" kicker from the audio shop next door, they gave me a deal. The box was a "build it yourself" kit where you glue it and it came with straps to hold it together until the glue dried. I used nails to make it stronger when I glued it along with the straps, and later cut the straps. It hit hard. It rattled your chest. And then my next car was a 06 s2000. And I had a ported box and it never sounded "right." Then after that I traded the s2k in for an 2005 subaru wrx sti.... At that point I bought a dual 12" ported box combo (subs came in the box) and again, there was port noise and just never sounded as good as sealed. Ended up being an idiot and giving the subs too much power and it fried them. Because I wanted that hard hitting bass I used to get with my sealed system. And then I finally went back to sealed. A single 12" 500 watt rms capable subwoofer, and threw 500 watts rms into it. And sure enough, it hit harder, and sounded better than that dual 12" ported box. Ported boxes are only good at one frequency. And usually its a frequency music barely ever hits. Sure great for competitions but musically, its crap. Now the idea of those double camber builds. Where you have either two separate ports for front/rear of speaker or half sealed and half ported, those might hit well musically. But a typical ported box, trash.
Finally somebody that feels the same way I do I just can't stand that fuzzy loose soft muddy base from a ported box. And yes I have tuned higher and use different subs tried it all I am not satisfied with ported base.
@@dallasjohnson7492 not at all. Ported sucks. Period. Ive been to tons of car shows and the one thing in common was ported boxes have port noise. Even when its in a trunk of a car, you still hear the port noise. In 13 years of hearing systems, ive NEVER heart a ported system beat the sound quality of a sealed system. Do ported get louder? Sure, but loud isnt always better. Quality matters more. And the best quality you can get is from sealed.
Prashanth Kolli Depends on what you call easy. A subwoofer is very easy, it’s two wires to detach per sub. The amp is taking off at least 5 wires, radio, RCAs, Power, and ground.
It’s pretty easy, just unplug two wires - one for positive terminal and one for negative terminal and remove the box. You just need to make sure those wires don’t touch each other and hopefully nothing metal
I just got a new 12” 600watt rms with a 800 watt rms amp, and I’m very impressed by the performance, it’s only one sub and it produces more than enough bass, I can’t really listen to it at max volume because I don’t want to go deaf 😂
lol We are glad to know that you are enjoying your gear! Which sub and amp models are you using in your system? What process did you follow to set the gain on the amp?
@@crutchfield I actually blew a fuse when I tried to install it so I took it to an audio shop and they set it up. It worked great but ig they set the gain too high or something, because I burnt the voice coil in 4 days 😭. It was covered under warranty tho so I got it replaced :)
I just want to go as low as I can at a reasonable db level. So I can sit and enjoy all of the music. Don’t need to rattle the trunk or make the sheet metal twerk..but hearing how the music was intended.. not too much to ask?
We offer a few different Pioneer subs and amps to help meet many different sounds and performance levels, and recommend contacting an advisor to discuss your specific goals to get a personal recommendation. Here's how to reach us for this help: www.crutchfield.com/I-rYTVc227/support/ContactUs.aspx
Great video!! I just bought a DS18 1500w and two 12" subwoofers and a touchscreen pioneer radio. I have a 2004 Chevy Blazer that it's going in. They are going to be installing it next week. I hope I picked out a decent sub, amp and radio for this vehicle. As you can tell, this is my first time doing anything like this. Fingers crossed.
@@shortboy9725 It is plenty for me. I didnt want something that was going to peel the paint off the SUV every time the bass hit lol. I'm very satisfied. I really like the fact that you can still hear the song as the bass hit. It's perfect for me. I havent even had it full blast yet lol.
Actually you need amp that is about 30% more powerfull than your sub/subs to get the clean RMS power. Less powerfull amp will cause distortion/clipping and eventually blow your sub.
GanG914 only if u don’t kno tf u doing I’m running a 4K amp on. A 6800rms 15 and I don’t clip ? Still shaking my windows and doing 154.8 dB (or did in my old car whit same setup) haven’t tested new
I have a shallow mount rockford 10. 300 rms 600 peak, I run a prime 500x1d, which pushes 643 rms at 2 ohms.. i just know that I'm "technically" overpowering it and am careful
Thank you for the kind words 🥰👍. We provide lifetime Technical Support with all products purchased from Crutchfield, so we are always able to assist you in getting installed and setup properly!
You can actually get a sealed AND ported box which is like a 50/50 blend of both rather than 100% sealed or 100% ported. I have a 15 inch fusion sub (125RMS and 600 watt maximum) running on twin quad Chanel 650 (125 RMS) watt pioneer amps in a sealed and ported box and it sounds beautiful.
Purists will hate this, but you can get away with too much amp power, and not hurt your sub by: -Using smaller gauge wire -Connecting the positive and negative wires opposite -Turning the amp gain all the way down -Listen at lower volumes If you're a begger and not a chooser, this can help in a pinch
Different types of enclosure/install areas: Infinite baffle most clean less watts needed and without sacrificing much lows, sub needs to have a high qts above or around .50 Sealed right cubic feet best sound quality sacrificing some room filling lows. Ported best for boom needs right cubic feet and also huge lows can be tuned unlike out of all these with port area and length, tuning range is usually 50hz-28hz i love me a higher tuned box depthy soul filling punch less boom. Band pass need to learn more on it but from what i know most superior for the really huge lows like around 28hz Anyways after some learning and installing/experimenting I still would go with IB easiest space saved and still really good whether through rear deck or through the rear seat hole mounted with a mdf bord and sealed with some pool noodles.
@@toffiebezzie1921 LOL?! Yes he does. A Mini has less air space than say, a truck or SUV, so a smaller sub WOULD be more appropriate, some people's tastes may vary.
First I wanted to say that your video gave me an idea of what I should buy and it helped me so much. Thanks. Also I wanted to ask what is that kicker sub in the back?
It is generally advisable to have more amp than the speaker calls for, not less. For. 200 watt speaker, 250 watts clean will do less damage than 150 watts distorted. Assuming, of course, you don't bottom out.
Not necessarily. You want to be close so you don’t run the risk of burn up your subs. I Called JL audio and recommends 750 watt amp for my 800 watt subs
Looking at getting a spare tire sub. A powered version that gives me bass, but keeps the space in the trunk. I only lose the small tool kit that sits in my spare tire while its mounted. The only issue, I wonder if my spare tire can be mounted face down?
Why would you want to mount the spare tire facing the opposite direction? With the offset on most passenger car wheels, you cannot flip the spare upside-down and still mount it in your spare tire stowage location under the rear storage area. The JBL subwoofer mounts inside the spare tire and would require your spare to be mounted in the original orientation.
Is it the old or new body? Did it come with a factory Alpine system? What are you using to power the other speakers in your Jeep? What types of music to you listen to most often?
Another disadvantage to a woofer is the weight. It will change your gas mileage as they're very heavy. I'm just wondering about that box on the video. Is that big enough? Don't car subs need these huge monstrosities to maximize bass response? I've also always wondered about power to the amp. I've seen videos and pics of guys actually putting 1 or 2 extra car batteries in their trunks (in addition to the normal car battery under the hood) to power their powerful systems. When do you need that extra power, and won't that put heavy stress on the alternator?
Most of the subwoofer boxes shown in this video are preloaded from the manufacturer and built for optimum performance. Ported boxes do play louder than sealed boxes. That's another way to get the most out of a bass system. Another way is to build one that needs a lot of power. Each vehicle will vary on how much aftermarket gear can be added before additional power is needed. A second battery is a way to help get that extra power without upgrading the alternator. Adding a second battery does increase the efficiency of the alternator, but does not increase the use of it. Typically, 750-1000 watts RMS is the starting point at which a second battery is needed
adding a full sound system to your car wouldnt be greater than the weight of no more than a passenger or two, so to say it would vary your mpg is almost comical. most average car audio setups use your cars normal battery for it. it does just fine as you only use your speakers when your car is on.
@@micheleberg4922 Well, there's a reason car manufacturers use "donut" spare tires rather than full-sized ones, and that's because the added weight of full-sized ones would decrease gas mileage. That's the same reason that real race cars take everything out of the interior besides the driver-side seat. The added weight changes the driving characteristics of the car. So, yes, realistically, big subs with big boxes would negatively affect gas mileage. And technically, gas mileage decreases with more people in the car. That's why car manufacturers publish MPH ratings when tested with only the driver.
You absolutely can build a customer box. You want to build the box with the right internal volume for the subwoofer, and use high quality materials like MDF.
@@crutchfield awesome thanks! I want to be able to fit it in my truck, but I don’t have my truck yet so I don’t know what I’ll need, and I’m trying to make it fit as snug and incognito as possible.
It is important to keep budget in mind and when necessary, either buy within current limits or save up for the upgrade. We never recommend spending beyond your means and even some of us here bought our system one piece at a time! When the desire is there for better performance, the wait becomes well worth it and getting the reward in the end. Here's hoping you find a way to meet your goals for your system!!
@@crutchfield you nailed it! That is how I've done it. I have bought from Crutchfield since 1989 I believe. Future goals: Focal TBMs, MSeries 3 5s, 6.ts, a JL 12" Prowedge. JL VXis. A DM-819, if you can get one. Dynamite, a D3400... Life's short- don't settle for stock!
What I don't understand is that good quality component speakers already can play a very strong base. Isn't that good enough for a good base sound already? I guess a good subwoofer just adds to the base, overall music quality and helps create more surround sound as if you have the subwoofer sound coming from the back of the car traveling forward?
It is true that high-quality component speakers have great bass, but you cannot equal the dynamics, impact, and low tones of large subwoofers with a properly matched amp. If you want impressive and deep bass that you can feel, aftermarket subwoofers are the move!
@@crutchfield It is just hard for me to imagine you can create a deep base you can feel without shaking the entire car. Is that what people get a subwoofer for-- just to make the entire car shake? Or as another option, does the subwoofer create (when not on high volume to shake the car) with just enough base simply a more dynamic and impactful sound experience but at the same time without the entire car shaking? Another thing I heard (still trying to understand this) is that when the subwoofer plays the base, it means you don't have to put the controls to high base for the rest of the speakers and then the rest of the speakers can focus more on the mid base and higher frequency. I can't wait to hear all of this in my new system.
The amount of vibration is related to the size and power of the subwoofer you choose to install. Tt's really all down to your personal needs. Smaller and less powerful subwoofers provide rich, deep bass without unnecessary vibration, while larger more powerful subwoofers of course will vibrate your vehicle more. You will be able to adjust your radio's EQ and turn down the bass on the radio to provide more clarity to your main speakers, it's true! This means not only does your subwoofer sound great all the main speakers will sound a little bit cleaner!
A single 8" subwoofer can provide rich and punchy bass for your 4-door sedan without being overpowering. The Alpine S2-SB8 PrismaLink enclosure in the link below would be an excellent choice, and it can handle up-to 300-watts RMS! www.crutchfield.com/I-rYALc166/p_500S2SB8/Alpine-S2-SB8.html
Is it ok to mix subwoofer sizes? I listen to 70's & 80's rock, 80's & 90's metal, country, and alternative. No heavy duty bass like dubstep, bassnectar, or rap. I was thinking about a 6.5" behind one front seat & 8" sub behind the other seat both in a sealed enclosure wiht the drivers pointing at the ceiling in a 17 CRV. Does it matter if you have 2 different subs that are different sizes?
Thank You.Iam confused between pioneer 1212D4,JL 12W0and DD audio 512. I want durability and Better sound quality.I have to purchase mono amp and enclosure separately.
Hi Damien! Did that Impala come with the factory Bose system? Have you upgraded the receiver, or is it still stock? There is a decent amount of space in the trunk for a more traditional box or there are options that fit under many seats. How much thump would you like: Round out the music kind of thump or wake the neighbors kind of thump? 😀
I have a 2004 mazda 3.. im thinking of upgrading the stereo and speakers and maybe a sub... if i put in a sub will it be ok to just use the factory stereo? how will i go about upgrading the factory stereo on a car like this?? thanks.
but what would be better lets say for movies? (so deep bass notes and bass you can feel). -A very powerfull 8 inch subwoofer lets say a ´´Sundown Audio X8D4´´ this is an 8 inch 800 watt rms subwoofer. -Or A jbl gt4 15 inch subwoofer rated at 250 watt rms. And lets say they are in the same ported box (so both subs are tuned to the same frequency). I think a powerfull high excursion 8 could put up a pretty good fight against a less powerfull and less excursing 15 inch sub. Or am I totally wrong? I mean If you dont want to waste to much space in you home because of speakers. A more powerfull but smaller sub could be a nice solution, but ofcourse will cost more money. My apologies for my bad spelling and poor word choice. This is not my first language
Bass for movies is all about the feel so the subwoofer that more output, more SPL, is always the better choice. The thiele small parameters help compare them. Qts is a good one to use as it relates to just how resonant a subwoofer actually is which helps with how loud and impactful it will be. We have advisors that can give personal recommendations on gear. Here's how to reach one for this help: www.crutchfield.com/I-rYTVc227/support/ContactUs.aspx
Hi Johnny. We do have retail stores you can visit in Virginia: www.crutchfield.com/I-rYALc921/Crutchfield-Stores/ You can also shop www.crutchfield.ca/
On Friday I'm getting 2 12in baseline subs and a 1500 watt Amp for 555 dollars completely installed is that decent for the price I don't know much about subs
That is always hard to gauge even with a complete list of the brand and model of all the gear because the cost of labor can widely vary in different areas of the country. We recommend getting the model numbers for all the gear and checking with other installers in your area to see what they would charge to install it
Hi ihave 2 dvc subwoofers 4 ohms 400rms each if i connect to parallell 800rms combination at 1ohms my amplifier is 1800rms in 1 ohms this not overpower the amplifier thanks
Hi Sonnel, If your subwoofers can each take 400 watts RMS, you will need an amplifier that will deliver 800 watts RMS at 1ohm, or 4ohm. If your amplifier is delivering 1800 watts RMS at 1ohm, you are overdriving your subwoofers. Feel free to reach out to us if you would like product advice on which amp would best suit your application. www.crutchfield.com/I-rYTVc164/contact
For a nissan exterra, what size is going to sound good? There's a Rockville 10" 500watt built in amp/sub combo I'm looking at. Idk if it's going to thump or be hollowy. Or if the 6.5"300watt is ideal. Help !
I like easily audible bass brought up along with everything else. I like articulation so I dont have to strain to hear a certain aspect of a song. I got a sterio new system for my car but next I'm going to get some kicker subs. Maybe a single 10 or 12. I listen to funk, rock and metal mainly but I do like to bump some old school gangsta shit sometimes. So I want articulation and clear cur sound with the ability to turn up and shake the car a bit and bump some bass. 10 or 12 good? Also this is my first sound system in a car. I'm a drummer and really like to listen to the all aspects of the music.
10" subwoofers are usually regarded as the size that gives the best mix of clarity and punch and other aspects of bass. We have advisors that can discuss your goals and vehicle fitment to then give you a personal recommendation on a setup that will work. Here's how to reach us for this help: www.crutchfield.com/I-rYTVc227/support/ContactUs.aspx
That really comes down to the amount of bass that you're looking for. For most systems, a single 12" sub will get the job done, but if you're looking for extremely strong bass output, then a pair of 12" subs is a great way to go.
Hi Jay! JL Audio makes some excellent 12" subwoofers, that can handle a lot of power, and sound amazing. Reach out to us to speak with one of our Advisors. We will be able to go over your needs a little more, and get you set up with a system that will work best for you! www.crutchfield.com/I-rYTVc164/contact
I have an Axton CAB609 which is 2x 12" Woofers with 250W RMS, these are 2x 4Ohm so 2Ohm parallel... I have an eye on a ESX 1x 12" Woofer with 2x2Ohm and I could get 1000W @1Ohm out of it. Will the ESX be weaker because it moves less air or is it all about the Wattage? 5:02 I heard something different, that the Amp should have more Watts because it should never peak because of distortions, heat and possible protection mode. It's always good to have power to spare, like Power Supplies imo. It's not like there is no knob to reduce the volume :D
Hi I am looking for kind of an idea of what sub and amp I should replace the factory with I've got a 2006 Civic EX coupe I'm kind of after a sub that acts a bit more bass that's smoother
We can help with that and have advisors here to discuss your goals in greater detail to give you a personal recommendation for all the gear needed to meet it. Here's how to reach us for this help: www.crutchfield.com/I-rYTVc227/support/ContactUs.aspx
Hi! Feel free to chat with us online or by phone. We would be happy to discuss your upgrades a little further, and make a solid, personalized recommendation! www.crutchfield.com/I-rYTVc164/contact
We will be happy to help check if its possible to put them into a bigger box. Which version of the Kicker CompVR 12" subwoofers do you have? What type of box are you using now? What is the internal box volume (air space) for each subwoofer?
How much bass you want vs how much groceries you want 😂😂😂 best level of example
Thushi Mj always got the middle seat. Unless you have a fun car that doesn’t😂
Charlie L u can but ur subs under the backseats that have ventilations holes that are on the sides of the seats they are not that bad looking
R3NyB 26 I would totally do that if I could afford it😭😂
haha
For example my Honda Civic with 2 15’s I can basically have 2 bags of groceries in my trunk gahaga
bought some really good speakers now i need a car
top comment god
@@navenpillay 😂😂😂😂
ay four months later... did you ever get a car?
Dude😭😭
I knew I wasn't the only one that did that before lol 😆
this is probably the most professional video about subs on youtube. answers a lot of questions.
Facts.
I'm officially a crutchfield fanboy. No idea what i was doing this weekend dropping that kind of money on a sytem having no idea about nothing. When i came to my senses and reached out to costumer support with my concern; they checked all the orders i made in the last 3 days and said the parts i chose would indeed go well toward making a great system. Thank you, Tom.
Thanks for the feedback and the story! We will let Tom know his help was appreciated!! We offer lifetime technical support that can help guide you through any installation hiccups or questions. Their phone number is included on the order invoice to help make it easy to reach them
Having been in car audio since 1997 and having a degree in electronics, I can say this is a good video for beginners. I like all of the explanations of the different types. Very good.
tThese guys have some of the best customer service, hands down. Highly recommended.
I would say get an amplifier that has at least 50% more power than the RMS rating. Because of the impedance rise caused by the box, your sub will never see anywhere near the power that your amp puts out at nominal load. Also, it’s better to have a bigger amp running low than having a smaller amp running at it’s limit all the time.
Exactly, the sub will only suck in the amount of power it needs and it is not recommended to have the amp gain at max to give some buffer so the amp will last a long time
so for a 300rms sub you get what? 450rms amp? ahahhaa funny and waste of money on the amp.
@@tholo86😂
I would never say what you said. The only reason to get a more powerful amp would be if in the future you knew you were going to add another sub. In other words, the video is correct. For instance, 200 watts = 150-200 watt amp... _NOT 300 watts!_
Regarding amp/s and upgrade/s, it would also have to deduce possibly more channels, such as going from 2 or 4 to 8, in the case of going active on the mid-woofers, tweeters, (mids), keeping the original sub amp and then replacing the other amp with enough channels, or possibly _two_ more amps, (depends). In this case, you would probably want to get rid of the original amp and just add two amps with enough power and channels (with DSP). (Again, depends.)* And, on and on and...!
*If the low, deep sub sound is upgraded/more powerful and drowns out most everything else, well, some people may like that, but most people probably will not.
"Also, it’s better to have a bigger amp running low than having a smaller amp running at it’s limit all the time."
That, in no manner or form, applies! If it does, that's because the system was not properly configured/designed/wired/powered. And, for the most part, and the vast majority of the time, "impedance rise caused by the box" is not even relevant. Again, all of the previous.
IOW, your post is bad advice. Don't get insulted. Take this as a learning experience.
Obviously, someone such as yourself should have a pro do the design/installation according to your budget. Or, at least the design according to your taste/budget, choose the equipment/wiring, and you do the installation.
To whoever: Crutchfield has great service!
I’m watching this video because I decided to buy a sub BECAUSE I just learned this in my ECE lab 2 days ago LMFAO
You forgot to mention how it gets addicting lol I started with a single 8 on 100 watts now I’m at two 15’s on 3500 watts in a box that is so big I had to assemble it in my trunk!
🤣👍🏽
Same here went from a single 12 on around 25 to 50 W in my bedroom to 2 18’s on 6500 W
1452 u gonna go deaf that’s too much power to ur ears
Fr 🤣🤣🤣
Lol
The thing he didn't mention was 'free air', which is subwoofer put usually on rear deck. This option is good for guys who want low bass sub, that doesn't take so much space.
To all you new/young drivers it’s better to be the person with the cool stereo system than to be the person that drives to fast wants to race and put peoples lives in danger every time you get into a vehicle. True playing loud music and not being considerate of other people and time of day it is can maybe get you a ticket by police. But no one with a loud stereo has gotten there license taken away or car towed or killed anyone-SPEEDING on the other hand is not an IF but A WHEN it will all go wrong and all the above could happen. And it’s a good argument for your parents to say I want a nice stereo system so I can enjoy my car and to drive slower to enjoy my music. Insurance doesn’t care what Audio you have in your car and your friends will always know when you’ve arrived-sometimes know when your around the block. But be considerate and you’ll never have a problem. And it’s a cool hobby and has a huge community all with mostly good folks always willing to help someone new to the audio world 🔊🔊
JL Audio makes the best enclosed subwoofers from 8s to 12s.Deep clean bass.
B2audio! 12inch subs!!
Thanks, that answers a lot of questions.
It's a hard decision because I would like the way 2 10s would hit in a sealed box, but I also like the way dual 12s in a ported box would sound. I think I would go with 12s in a ported box though. Won't hit as hard but still get kind of the best of both ..mainly sound quality.
It's a popular choice!
@@crutchfield You guys locate in Brooklyn ??
What you end up doing?
Everything from Mozart to Metallica has bass...
...And Justice for All has left the chat
😂
Sealed is always better. Why? Sound Quality. Yes, ported can hit harder at a particular frequency. But you end up with port noise, and possible mechanical noise from the woofer itself (the excursion noise). Some people don't notice it, or simply don't care. Only get the sub in a tiny plastic housing with amp built in if you are pressed for room. Those kinds of things can fit under the seat, but they wont sound as good as a dedicated sub in a box, with an external amp.
My first system I ever had was a 12" kicker in a sealed box in my 1993 del sol. I loved that system. Kicker speakers all around, single kicker 12." You could literally hear me coming down the street. My buddy would always say "I heard you coming" and it wasn't anything special. I didn't have 1000 watts of sub power. I had the door speakers connected to the headunit power (pioneer, so 15w x4) and then one of those walmart crunch amps. Way back when I didn't know shit. Got the 12" kicker from the audio shop next door, they gave me a deal. The box was a "build it yourself" kit where you glue it and it came with straps to hold it together until the glue dried. I used nails to make it stronger when I glued it along with the straps, and later cut the straps. It hit hard. It rattled your chest. And then my next car was a 06 s2000. And I had a ported box and it never sounded "right." Then after that I traded the s2k in for an 2005 subaru wrx sti.... At that point I bought a dual 12" ported box combo (subs came in the box) and again, there was port noise and just never sounded as good as sealed. Ended up being an idiot and giving the subs too much power and it fried them. Because I wanted that hard hitting bass I used to get with my sealed system. And then I finally went back to sealed. A single 12" 500 watt rms capable subwoofer, and threw 500 watts rms into it. And sure enough, it hit harder, and sounded better than that dual 12" ported box. Ported boxes are only good at one frequency. And usually its a frequency music barely ever hits. Sure great for competitions but musically, its crap.
Now the idea of those double camber builds. Where you have either two separate ports for front/rear of speaker or half sealed and half ported, those might hit well musically. But a typical ported box, trash.
Finally somebody that feels the same way I do I just can't stand that fuzzy loose soft muddy base from a ported box. And yes I have tuned higher and use different subs tried it all I am not satisfied with ported base.
yall are miscalculating the size of the ported box or the size of the trunk its going in to
@@dallasjohnson7492 not at all. Ported sucks. Period. Ive been to tons of car shows and the one thing in common was ported boxes have port noise. Even when its in a trunk of a car, you still hear the port noise. In 13 years of hearing systems, ive NEVER heart a ported system beat the sound quality of a sealed system. Do ported get louder? Sure, but loud isnt always better. Quality matters more. And the best quality you can get is from sealed.
Sub VS golf clubs.... dude hits my middle age hard with that one.
Quite the dilemma! 😃
3:10 15s sealed in a proper box will go low and loud . Usually the same size box for a ported 12 .
This guy is cool! The way he explains things.
Is it easy to detach and reatach a sub whenever we need to have more cargo area...
Prashanth Kolli
Depends on what you call easy. A subwoofer is very easy, it’s two wires to detach per sub.
The amp is taking off at least 5 wires, radio, RCAs, Power, and ground.
It’s pretty easy, just unplug two wires - one for positive terminal and one for negative terminal and remove the box. You just need to make sure those wires don’t touch each other and hopefully nothing metal
If you make it easy to remove the sub you make it easy to steal it too. I'm going to bolt mine in with multiple kinds of security screws.
The fact that he commented on how much room for gold clubs is funny because that's literally my only concern with adding a sub.
Yes! That's always important!! 🙂⛳
I just got a new 12” 600watt rms with a 800 watt rms amp, and I’m very impressed by the performance, it’s only one sub and it produces more than enough bass, I can’t really listen to it at max volume because I don’t want to go deaf 😂
lol We are glad to know that you are enjoying your gear! Which sub and amp models are you using in your system? What process did you follow to set the gain on the amp?
did u get a ported box?
@@jeremym8869 yes
@@crutchfield I actually blew a fuse when I tried to install it so I took it to an audio shop and they set it up. It worked great but ig they set the gain too high or something, because I burnt the voice coil in 4 days 😭. It was covered under warranty tho so I got it replaced :)
I just want to go as low as I can at a reasonable db level. So I can sit and enjoy all of the music. Don’t need to rattle the trunk or make the sheet metal twerk..but hearing how the music was intended.. not too much to ask?
Man. I used to have a thumping system in the back of a Jeep Wrangler. Sound was awsome!!
I upgraded my door speakers and head unit, now I need an amplifier and a subwoofer to complete my sound system
(The brand I use is pioneer)
We offer a few different Pioneer subs and amps to help meet many different sounds and performance levels, and recommend contacting an advisor to discuss your specific goals to get a personal recommendation. Here's how to reach us for this help:
www.crutchfield.com/I-rYTVc227/support/ContactUs.aspx
yup thats all i need man im going to best buy tmr morning and getting sub installed with no doubt in my mind
one 12" is all i need
A classic.
Crutchfield what amp do I need for 2 15-pr10d4v2 Memphis thanks
Unfortunately the average penis size is 6"
@@scarletbeckett7075 i always score below average
Great video!! I just bought a DS18 1500w and two 12" subwoofers and a touchscreen pioneer radio. I have a 2004 Chevy Blazer that it's going in. They are going to be installing it next week. I hope I picked out a decent sub, amp and radio for this vehicle. As you can tell, this is my first time doing anything like this. Fingers crossed.
how is it?
@@shortboy9725 It is plenty for me. I didnt want something that was going to peel the paint off the SUV every time the bass hit lol. I'm very satisfied. I really like the fact that you can still hear the song as the bass hit. It's perfect for me. I havent even had it full blast yet lol.
This dude has the best tutorials I have ever seen
Glad you liked the video, Jordan! We'll try to keep 'em coming! :-)
This man explains this so damn good
most helpful video i’ve watched
Actually you need amp that is about 30% more powerfull than your sub/subs to get the clean RMS power. Less powerfull amp will cause distortion/clipping and eventually blow your sub.
Only if you turn the gain up. Underpowering a sub can't hurt it.
GanG914 only if u don’t kno tf u doing I’m running a 4K amp on. A 6800rms 15 and I don’t clip ? Still shaking my windows and doing 154.8 dB (or did in my old car whit same setup) haven’t tested new
@@stiffe9608 What sub are you running?
@@silvereagle90000 unless it clips
I have a shallow mount rockford 10. 300 rms 600 peak, I run a prime 500x1d, which pushes 643 rms at 2 ohms.. i just know that I'm "technically" overpowering it and am careful
I'm watching this thinking, "I should be writing this stuff down so I know what to look for when I upgrade my bass"
Thanks so much. Just got my first car. And I'm just trying to learn the basics of how to work these 😂 good thing there's youtube
Thank you for the kind words 🥰👍. We provide lifetime Technical Support with all products purchased from Crutchfield, so we are always able to assist you in getting installed and setup properly!
You can actually get a sealed AND ported box which is like a 50/50 blend of both rather than 100% sealed or 100% ported. I have a 15 inch fusion sub (125RMS and 600 watt maximum) running on twin quad Chanel 650 (125 RMS) watt pioneer amps in a sealed and ported box and it sounds beautiful.
I never thought of that how was the box built half sealed half ported ?
What are you talking about? Sealed is sealed. You can't have a sealed box with a port. That makes it UNSEALED.
Purists will hate this, but you can get away with too much amp power, and not hurt your sub by:
-Using smaller gauge wire
-Connecting the positive and negative wires opposite
-Turning the amp gain all the way down
-Listen at lower volumes
If you're a begger and not a chooser, this can help in a pinch
Why should you pay more for an amp you know you are going to under utilize? Even Elon Musk cant do that
Can you Please do a video rating the best all inclusive Powered Sub/Amp kits for under $500
No
Different types of enclosure/install areas:
Infinite baffle most clean less watts needed and without sacrificing much lows, sub needs to have a high qts above or around .50
Sealed right cubic feet best sound quality sacrificing some room filling lows.
Ported best for boom needs right cubic feet and also huge lows can be tuned unlike out of all these with port area and length, tuning range is usually 50hz-28hz i love me a higher tuned box depthy soul filling punch less boom.
Band pass need to learn more on it but from what i know most superior for the really huge lows like around 28hz
Anyways after some learning and installing/experimenting I still would go with IB easiest space saved and still really good whether through rear deck or through the rear seat hole mounted with a mdf bord and sealed with some pool noodles.
Thank you! This was very helpful
You're welcome! If you need anything further, please let us know.
TIME TO BOP SOME RIP ROACH😈😈
Really good video series y’all have going on for beginners!!!
I got Skar 18” in my Mini Cooper
WTF?! How's is that even possible?!
No more trunk for you
To big budd may sound good but a smaller speaker is better
Stiffe lol no😂 Do you know what you’re talking about? No, no you don’t 😂
@@toffiebezzie1921 LOL?! Yes he does. A Mini has less air space than say, a truck or SUV, so a smaller sub WOULD be more appropriate, some people's tastes may vary.
First I wanted to say that your video gave me an idea of what I should buy and it helped me so much. Thanks. Also I wanted to ask what is that kicker sub in the back?
The one shown around time 2:04 is the Kicker CompC loaded box:
www.crutchfield.com/I-rYALc227/p_206DCWC122/item.html
Ok i get it this is how we chose the right one but how do we chose the left speaker
It is generally advisable to have more amp than the speaker calls for, not less. For. 200 watt speaker, 250 watts clean will do less damage than 150 watts distorted. Assuming, of course, you don't bottom out.
Not necessarily. You want to be close so you don’t run the risk of burn up your subs. I Called JL audio and recommends 750 watt amp for my 800 watt subs
@@mildaudiophile3879 I second
I have the small angled 1x11 kicker speaker in my kia soul and it works good, but it gets hot even with maxed out AC. Nothing is set too high.
I just got alpines put in every speaker now I need an amp and the woofer itself nd I think this helped with what I’d need 🤙🏽
Alpine is a great choice! Would you like help choosing an amp?
@@crutchfield yes I’m new when it comes to subwoofers, what amp and subwoofer would u recommend that would be cheapest to go with the speakers?
Do you want to power the new speakers with the amp too? If so, what model are they and how many? Do you need a sub box?
Looking at getting a spare tire sub. A powered version that gives me bass, but keeps the space in the trunk. I only lose the small tool kit that sits in my spare tire while its mounted. The only issue, I wonder if my spare tire can be mounted face down?
Do you have a specific sub model in mind?
@@crutchfield The JBL Basspro Hub. The powered version. I'm looking to put it into a 2015 Mazda 6. I have the non Bose stereo.
Why would you want to mount the spare tire facing the opposite direction? With the offset on most passenger car wheels, you cannot flip the spare upside-down and still mount it in your spare tire stowage location under the rear storage area. The JBL subwoofer mounts inside the spare tire and would require your spare to be mounted in the original orientation.
6.5 sinful sound sub, 500 watt Audiopipe amp in a 2017 tacoma
talk about feeling it in the front seat
After a lot of research i am now ready to get a sub
Which sub did you land on?
Super helpful video, thank you JR!
We are glad JR's video helped! Let us know when we can help again
my pick is the dual 13W7AE-D1.5 with custom ported box and sound deadening for the trunk
I got 2 12kickers, theyre only rated 300watts a piece but i have a 1100 watt 1 channel amp
Very good and clear video
Thanks!
What would you guys recommend for a 4 door 2018 Jeep sports Wrangler? Best brands? Best size?
Is it the old or new body? Did it come with a factory Alpine system? What are you using to power the other speakers in your Jeep? What types of music to you listen to most often?
Another disadvantage to a woofer is the weight. It will change your gas mileage as they're very heavy. I'm just wondering about that box on the video. Is that big enough? Don't car subs need these huge monstrosities to maximize bass response? I've also always wondered about power to the amp. I've seen videos and pics of guys actually putting 1 or 2 extra car batteries in their trunks (in addition to the normal car battery under the hood) to power their powerful systems. When do you need that extra power, and won't that put heavy stress on the alternator?
Most of the subwoofer boxes shown in this video are preloaded from the manufacturer and built for optimum performance. Ported boxes do play louder than sealed boxes. That's another way to get the most out of a bass system. Another way is to build one that needs a lot of power. Each vehicle will vary on how much aftermarket gear can be added before additional power is needed. A second battery is a way to help get that extra power without upgrading the alternator. Adding a second battery does increase the efficiency of the alternator, but does not increase the use of it. Typically, 750-1000 watts RMS is the starting point at which a second battery is needed
adding a full sound system to your car wouldnt be greater than the weight of no more than a passenger or two, so to say it would vary your mpg is almost comical. most average car audio setups use your cars normal battery for it. it does just fine as you only use your speakers when your car is on.
@@micheleberg4922 Well, there's a reason car manufacturers use "donut" spare tires rather than full-sized ones, and that's because the added weight of full-sized ones would decrease gas mileage. That's the same reason that real race cars take everything out of the interior besides the driver-side seat. The added weight changes the driving characteristics of the car. So, yes, realistically, big subs with big boxes would negatively affect gas mileage.
And technically, gas mileage decreases with more people in the car. That's why car manufacturers publish MPH ratings when tested with only the driver.
I got a orion on 700 w rms and it laughs at it
Once I get the money gonna get a sundown x 18 on 3000 w
Very informative video 👍🏼
Thanks for checking it out, Prashanth!
He’s pretty good 😂💪🏽
Can you build your own custom box? Or is the construction really important to the sound quality and durability of the sub?
You absolutely can build a customer box. You want to build the box with the right internal volume for the subwoofer, and use high quality materials like MDF.
@@crutchfield awesome thanks! I want to be able to fit it in my truck, but I don’t have my truck yet so I don’t know what I’ll need, and I’m trying to make it fit as snug and incognito as possible.
The biggest decision is should I work a second job for a better system? 7:09
It is important to keep budget in mind and when necessary, either buy within current limits or save up for the upgrade. We never recommend spending beyond your means and even some of us here bought our system one piece at a time! When the desire is there for better performance, the wait becomes well worth it and getting the reward in the end. Here's hoping you find a way to meet your goals for your system!!
@@crutchfield you nailed it! That is how I've done it. I have bought from Crutchfield since 1989 I believe. Future goals: Focal TBMs, MSeries 3 5s, 6.ts, a JL 12" Prowedge. JL VXis. A DM-819, if you can get one. Dynamite, a D3400... Life's short- don't settle for stock!
Right!!! lol
"Everything from Mozart to Metallica has bass..."
- Jason News Newsted enters the chat...
Great video, about to look at crutchfield for a sub
What I don't understand is that good quality component speakers already can play a very strong base. Isn't that good enough for a good base sound already? I guess a good subwoofer just adds to the base, overall music quality and helps create more surround sound as if you have the subwoofer sound coming from the back of the car traveling forward?
It is true that high-quality component speakers have great bass, but you cannot equal the dynamics, impact, and low tones of large subwoofers with a properly matched amp. If you want impressive and deep bass that you can feel, aftermarket subwoofers are the move!
@@crutchfield It is just hard for me to imagine you can create a deep base you can feel without shaking the entire car. Is that what people get a subwoofer for-- just to make the entire car shake? Or as another option, does the subwoofer create (when not on high volume to shake the car) with just enough base simply a more dynamic and impactful sound experience but at the same time without the entire car shaking? Another thing I heard (still trying to understand this) is that when the subwoofer plays the base, it means you don't have to put the controls to high base for the rest of the speakers and then the rest of the speakers can focus more on the mid base and higher frequency. I can't wait to hear all of this in my new system.
The amount of vibration is related to the size and power of the subwoofer you choose to install. Tt's really all down to your personal needs. Smaller and less powerful subwoofers provide rich, deep bass without unnecessary vibration, while larger more powerful subwoofers of course will vibrate your vehicle more. You will be able to adjust your radio's EQ and turn down the bass on the radio to provide more clarity to your main speakers, it's true! This means not only does your subwoofer sound great all the main speakers will sound a little bit cleaner!
What yall think about a single 8inch for a 4 door sedan
A single 8" subwoofer can provide rich and punchy bass for your 4-door sedan without being overpowering. The Alpine S2-SB8 PrismaLink enclosure in the link below would be an excellent choice, and it can handle up-to 300-watts RMS!
www.crutchfield.com/I-rYALc166/p_500S2SB8/Alpine-S2-SB8.html
I just don’t know how to set it up
Fr
Too many damn wires
@@Cageboygo to a stereo shop
2 vibe Black Death 12’ Orion HCCA 12500 in a 98 Saturn sl1 and it’s ok. Daily driver btw
Is it ok to mix subwoofer sizes? I listen to 70's & 80's rock, 80's & 90's metal, country, and alternative. No heavy duty bass like dubstep, bassnectar, or rap. I was thinking about a 6.5" behind one front seat & 8" sub behind the other seat both in a sealed enclosure wiht the drivers pointing at the ceiling in a 17 CRV.
Does it matter if you have 2 different subs that are different sizes?
You certainly can mix subwoofer sizes. Although you will get the best results using multiple so the same sub.
Thank You.Iam confused between pioneer 1212D4,JL 12W0and DD audio 512. I want durability and Better sound quality.I have to purchase mono amp and enclosure separately.
We had seen your other post and replied there with our questions to help choose between the two we are familiar with how they sound.
Great Video! Thank you 🔥👏💪🫶
You're welcome. It's great to hear that you found it helpful! 🙂
There's no replacement for displacement, the bigger the better 😉
Love your video I gotta 06 impala I'd like to know where to put one 10" subwoofer and box in
Hi Damien! Did that Impala come with the factory Bose system? Have you upgraded the receiver, or is it still stock? There is a decent amount of space in the trunk for a more traditional box or there are options that fit under many seats. How much thump would you like: Round out the music kind of thump or wake the neighbors kind of thump? 😀
I have a 2004 mazda 3.. im thinking of upgrading the stereo and speakers and maybe a sub... if i put in a sub will it be ok to just use the factory stereo? how will i go about upgrading the factory stereo on a car like this?? thanks.
Sounds like you could use more personalized help! Get in touch with one of our advisors! bit.ly/2KP1zS3
@@crutchfield Thank you, ive decided to keep the factory stereo and speakers and just add a sub, im getting a powered subwoofer installed on thursday😊
but what would be better lets say for movies? (so deep bass notes and bass you can feel).
-A very powerfull 8 inch subwoofer lets say a ´´Sundown Audio X8D4´´ this is an 8 inch 800 watt rms subwoofer.
-Or A jbl gt4 15 inch subwoofer rated at 250 watt rms.
And lets say they are in the same ported box (so both subs are tuned to the same frequency). I think a powerfull high excursion 8 could put up a pretty good fight against a less powerfull and less excursing 15 inch sub. Or am I totally wrong? I mean If you dont want to waste to much space in you home because of speakers. A more powerfull but smaller sub could be a nice solution, but ofcourse will cost more money.
My apologies for my bad spelling and poor word choice. This is not my first language
Bass for movies is all about the feel so the subwoofer that more output, more SPL, is always the better choice. The thiele small parameters help compare them. Qts is a good one to use as it relates to just how resonant a subwoofer actually is which helps with how loud and impactful it will be. We have advisors that can give personal recommendations on gear. Here's how to reach one for this help:
www.crutchfield.com/I-rYTVc227/support/ContactUs.aspx
@@crutchfield tnx!
What subwoofer can I put on a smart for the best performance?
We are happy to help. It seems like you are working with a Smart car. What is the year and model of yours?
Very well done. Thanks
Hello
Where are you located… I am in Canada 🇨🇦 , if you are in the States , I always go across…
I wanna come see you
Hi Johnny. We do have retail stores you can visit in Virginia: www.crutchfield.com/I-rYALc921/Crutchfield-Stores/ You can also shop www.crutchfield.ca/
On Friday I'm getting 2 12in baseline subs and a 1500 watt Amp for 555 dollars completely installed is that decent for the price I don't know much about subs
That is always hard to gauge even with a complete list of the brand and model of all the gear because the cost of labor can widely vary in different areas of the country. We recommend getting the model numbers for all the gear and checking with other installers in your area to see what they would charge to install it
Don’t forget about the epicentro 🎶
Bigger magnet=lower frequency=less kick=less power it needs. It is better to have stronger amp than sub bc most amps are lying.
Which has cleaner bass, the JBL Stadium 1224 or the Kicker 43CWR122 CompR?
I'd assume Kicker
@@freedompioneer4311 Thanks man'
Hi ihave 2 dvc subwoofers 4 ohms 400rms each if i connect to parallell 800rms combination at 1ohms my amplifier is 1800rms in 1 ohms this not overpower the amplifier thanks
Hi Sonnel,
If your subwoofers can each take 400 watts RMS, you will need an amplifier that will deliver 800 watts RMS at 1ohm, or 4ohm.
If your amplifier is delivering 1800 watts RMS at 1ohm, you are overdriving your subwoofers.
Feel free to reach out to us if you would like product advice on which amp would best suit your application.
www.crutchfield.com/I-rYTVc164/contact
For a nissan exterra, what size is going to sound good? There's a Rockville 10" 500watt built in amp/sub combo I'm looking at. Idk if it's going to thump or be hollowy. Or if the 6.5"300watt is ideal. Help !
0:26 except for on And Justice For All 😆
Good point! 🤣
😅 I was thinking the same lol
I like easily audible bass brought up along with everything else. I like articulation so I dont have to strain to hear a certain aspect of a song. I got a sterio new system for my car but next I'm going to get some kicker subs. Maybe a single 10 or 12. I listen to funk, rock and metal mainly but I do like to bump some old school gangsta shit sometimes. So I want articulation and clear cur sound with the ability to turn up and shake the car a bit and bump some bass. 10 or 12 good? Also this is my first sound system in a car. I'm a drummer and really like to listen to the all aspects of the music.
I may get the kicker 10 pt250. One at first but eventually 2. Either behind the back seats or underneath the front seats
10" subwoofers are usually regarded as the size that gives the best mix of clarity and punch and other aspects of bass. We have advisors that can discuss your goals and vehicle fitment to then give you a personal recommendation on a setup that will work. Here's how to reach us for this help:
www.crutchfield.com/I-rYTVc227/support/ContactUs.aspx
I cant decide if i should get two 12’ or one 12’😩😩
That really comes down to the amount of bass that you're looking for. For most systems, a single 12" sub will get the job done, but if you're looking for extremely strong bass output, then a pair of 12" subs is a great way to go.
I
m still using my 12" CERWIN VEGA STROKER
i think woofer is important for better emotional music as lower frequencies messed up the whole music
Awesome video thanks
I need 12 inch speaker just loud and clear what kind do i need?
Hi Jay!
JL Audio makes some excellent 12" subwoofers, that can handle a lot of power, and sound amazing.
Reach out to us to speak with one of our Advisors. We will be able to go over your needs a little more, and get you set up with a system that will work best for you!
www.crutchfield.com/I-rYTVc164/contact
Kicker 10 inch behind my seat and 2 12s on my seat in a single cab
Thank you sir, answered all my questions.
Hah, I built a box of my entire backseats so I now got a 2-seated sedan... I hope this works out...
Bro you're gonna be deaf within a week lol
@@wwiking8055 Well, atleast that would mean that it works... haha!
I have an Axton CAB609 which is 2x 12" Woofers with 250W RMS, these are 2x 4Ohm so 2Ohm parallel...
I have an eye on a ESX 1x 12" Woofer with 2x2Ohm and I could get 1000W @1Ohm out of it.
Will the ESX be weaker because it moves less air or is it all about the Wattage?
5:02 I heard something different, that the Amp should have more Watts because it should never peak because of distortions, heat and possible protection mode. It's always good to have power to spare, like Power Supplies imo. It's not like there is no knob to reduce the volume :D
What model amp are you planning to use?
Davie504: Bass~!
Bass slap
Hi I am looking for kind of an idea of what sub and amp I should replace the factory with I've got a 2006 Civic EX coupe I'm kind of after a sub that acts a bit more bass that's smoother
We can help with that and have advisors here to discuss your goals in greater detail to give you a personal recommendation for all the gear needed to meet it. Here's how to reach us for this help:
www.crutchfield.com/I-rYTVc227/support/ContactUs.aspx
Cant help but wonder if thats my Kicker Comp C dual 12s lol
I have a 2008 tahoe. I'm looking for 2 12s and a amp. *limited trunk space* Any suggestions
Hi!
Feel free to chat with us online or by phone. We would be happy to discuss your upgrades a little further, and make a solid, personalized recommendation!
www.crutchfield.com/I-rYTVc164/contact
Is the SKAR SDR-2X12D4 dual 12" sub package good?
Hi Carter, Skar is a popular brand; but not one we carry. If you need help choosing a package from our models, please let us know.
I have 2 kicker compvr 12's, sundown audio sfb1000d im looking for box dimensions to help produce more bass
We will be happy to help check if its possible to put them into a bigger box. Which version of the Kicker CompVR 12" subwoofers do you have? What type of box are you using now? What is the internal box volume (air space) for each subwoofer?
I use a truck subwoofer box in my rav 4 with a 400 watt amp