Clever idea and nice workmanship on the knot and the vid. It was educational and easy to follow. Will give the splice a go. I also have used bits of old ballpoints and decided the other day to upgrade my game to aluminum knitting needles. They are easy to cut to length (conservative at 22D) at 60 degrees. For a cutting guide, drill hole (90 deg to edge) in chunk of timber (scrap 2 by 4) from the edge, then cross cut at 30 degrees bisecting the drill hole. Clamp in vise and presto, 60 degree cutting guide. The aluminum knitting needles seem thicker walled than ss tubing but are lower cost and easier to work. Keep up the good work. Full sails and fair winds.
Fantastic video. I'm just got some amsteel for camping. Making a ridgeline for a hammock and another one for a quick deploy tarp ridgeline. Made my first splice just now watching this video. I appreciate you
This is a clever way to do it if you don't have access to the standing end. However, if you do have access to the standing end, there is a simpler way to do it that results in a tighter splice. Just look up brummel eye splice and you'll find several videos on it.
@@mastpg the standing end is the long end, the opposite of the working end. You never see the tip of the working end in this video. So, it is a useful technique for certain senarios
Thanks Jason, I've watched a million of these and the way you describe it and cut out the technical, measure everything to the millimetre, lol makes me confident to do it now for my trailer winch rope.
It doens't have to be a Brummel splice, a normal will also do, especially with a short end of rope. You make a loop, and then in goes the other end thereby autolocking the splice. I think it will look nicer, especially with 12strand silver sk-75 dyneema. Nice video, I've been using synthetic rope for the last 5 years. Standing rigging and its manufacture should also be dealt with in the magazine.
A non brummel can work loose under low cyclic loading, so that’s less good for something like a guardrail line. You’ll need to stitch the bury to guard against that.
@@JasperJanssen If one would compare two plices in single braided Dyneema, one Brummel and the other a normal lock-spliced, there whould be no difference at all. You use the Brummel technique when one end is not free, otherwise a normal lick-splice eye would equally do the job. You taper the end and put it out of sight in the braided rope for esthetic reasons and tapering is a good idea because it might 'work' on the inside and that could give rise to structural weakness. In continuous loops, for example, you stitch and whip the loop at both sides to prevent loosening.
I allow or use up 1" per strand that I pull out and trim. But it is important with slippery line like Dyneema, that you bury a length 50x the diameter of the line you are using.
@@GordieGii 50x total bury, so to the tip. Also keep in mind that the taper is progressively getting less effective at holding power. as the diameter diminishes, so does the friction, so don't get carried away with the taper. The taper is only there to help make a smooth transition for running lines. Under extreme line strain a straight cut line will break at the end of the rope. So a taper is used to reduce the stress point right there.
Bill From Germany isn’t necessary with a locked brummel, although it’s good for a simple eye splice (with *only* a bury). Under load it’s the bury that takes the strain, but you need something to take no-load flapping, that’s what the stitching or locked brummel provide.
@@JasperJanssen Yep, I use the locked brummel, but like the whipping at the thimble as it can be difficult to get the eye just right, not too loose. Not sure if you are saying that stitching along the bury isn‘t necessary - because it is.
So far lost count of how many pieces of dyneema I have wasted - trying to measure the length needed for low friction ring - either way too short or way too long. This seems to be a bit of a "random" way of doing it. I now know why Jimmy Green and the other companies charge so much for their pre spliced low friction rings.
@@HarryLevinson If you haven't figured it out already, if you have access to the other end of the line, and it isn't crazy long, you can pass the tail through the standing end, then switch the tubular fid to the other end of the line and pass it through the tail at the appropriate distance from the first brummel. Doing it this way allows you to tighten up the first brummel onto the ring and get it nice and snug. Arborists spice Tenex TEC slings this way, but they're usually less than 20' long, so both ends are available, and the rope is usually 19-24mm diameter.
a rather poor video .. that jumps about … would be better to clearly show /label “first” points and “second” point … and also ensure the short and long ends are clearly shown ..
Clever idea and nice workmanship on the knot and the vid. It was educational and easy to follow. Will give the splice a go. I also have used bits of old ballpoints and decided the other day to upgrade my game to aluminum knitting needles. They are easy to cut to length (conservative at 22D) at 60 degrees. For a cutting guide, drill hole (90 deg to edge) in chunk of timber (scrap 2 by 4) from the edge, then cross cut at 30 degrees bisecting the drill hole. Clamp in vise and presto, 60 degree cutting guide. The aluminum knitting needles seem thicker walled than ss tubing but are lower cost and easier to work. Keep up the good work. Full sails and fair winds.
p.s. Re using vice grips against board. Way cool.
Ooops. Apologies. was thinking of another vid.
Fantastic video. I'm just got some amsteel for camping. Making a ridgeline for a hammock and another one for a quick deploy tarp ridgeline. Made my first splice just now watching this video. I appreciate you
This is a clever way to do it if you don't have access to the standing end. However, if you do have access to the standing end, there is a simpler way to do it that results in a tighter splice. Just look up brummel eye splice and you'll find several videos on it.
Don't you technically have access to the standing end....just not once the ring is shoved in?
@@mastpg the standing end is the long end, the opposite of the working end. You never see the tip of the working end in this video. So, it is a useful technique for certain senarios
thanks for the second twist!
Excellent, practical demo. Thanks
The Splicing Wand by Brion Toss works well.
Thanks for the lesson.
Which loose end there are 2?
Would this be strong enough for a boat trailer winch ?
If the rope is strong enough, then definitely. These eye splices are stronger than line strength.
Thanks Jason, I've watched a million of these and the way you describe it and cut out the technical, measure everything to the millimetre, lol makes me confident to do it now for my trailer winch rope.
It doens't have to be a Brummel splice, a normal will also do, especially with a short end of rope. You make a loop, and then in goes the other end thereby autolocking the splice.
I think it will look nicer, especially with 12strand silver sk-75 dyneema. Nice video, I've been using synthetic rope for the last 5 years. Standing rigging and its manufacture should also be dealt with in the magazine.
A non brummel can work loose under low cyclic loading, so that’s less good for something like a guardrail line. You’ll need to stitch the bury to guard against that.
@@JasperJanssen If one would compare two plices in single braided Dyneema, one Brummel and the other a normal lock-spliced, there whould be no difference at all. You use the Brummel technique when one end is not free, otherwise a normal lick-splice eye would equally do the job. You taper the end and put it out of sight in the braided rope for esthetic reasons and tapering is a good idea because it might 'work' on the inside and that could give rise to structural weakness. In continuous loops, for example, you stitch and whip the loop at both sides to prevent loosening.
Nice nad useful!
I've found that Kevlar scissors are the easiest way to cut dyneema.
I've seen this described as a mobius brummel splice.
What percentage of the buried part should be tapered?
I allow or use up 1" per strand that I pull out and trim. But it is important with slippery line like Dyneema, that you bury a length 50x the diameter of the line you are using.
@@brotherlove100 But is that 50x to the tip, or 50x before you start tapering?
@@GordieGii 50x total bury, so to the tip. Also keep in mind that the taper is progressively getting less effective at holding power. as the diameter diminishes, so does the friction, so don't get carried away with the taper. The taper is only there to help make a smooth transition for running lines. Under extreme line strain a straight cut line will break at the end of the rope. So a taper is used to reduce the stress point right there.
I also whip at the thimble and stitch along the bury.
Bill From Germany isn’t necessary with a locked brummel, although it’s good for a simple eye splice (with *only* a bury). Under load it’s the bury that takes the strain, but you need something to take no-load flapping, that’s what the stitching or locked brummel provide.
@@JasperJanssen Yep, I use the locked brummel, but like the whipping at the thimble as it can be difficult to get the eye just right, not too loose. Not sure if you are saying that stitching along the bury isn‘t necessary - because it is.
@@JasperJanssen this isn't a locking splice though
@@MontyD ... yes it is.
@@JasperJanssen ... so it is lol. Just looked it up! I'll keep my mouth shut in future!...
I can see doing it this way if you don’t have access to the free end of the line.
Is it beneficial to have the splice as tight as you can get it around the ring? Like on a thimble?
you need it as tight as possible or the ring will slip out
So far lost count of how many pieces of dyneema I have wasted - trying to measure the length needed for low friction ring - either way too short or way too long. This seems to be a bit of a "random" way of doing it. I now know why Jimmy Green and the other companies charge so much for their pre spliced low friction rings.
Nice video. Water soluble markers work just as well... and well... wash off.
There is a MUCH easier way to do a Brummel splice...you don’t need to invert the line twice and then un-invert your inversions.
Please share a video or instructions. I’ve found this double invert very difficult on small diameter line.
@@HarryLevinson If you haven't figured it out already, if you have access to the other end of the line, and it isn't crazy long, you can pass the tail through the standing end, then switch the tubular fid to the other end of the line and pass it through the tail at the appropriate distance from the first brummel. Doing it this way allows you to tighten up the first brummel onto the ring and get it nice and snug. Arborists spice Tenex TEC slings this way, but they're usually less than 20' long, so both ends are available, and the rope is usually 19-24mm diameter.
I can’t make sense of this. I must be daft.
a rather poor video .. that jumps about … would be better to clearly show /label “first” points and “second” point … and also ensure the short and long ends are clearly shown ..
I loved it, you are a winger.
Absolutely fantastic work.
i thought thats a möbius splice o.O